Handleiding EdgeCraft Chef-s Choice - Angle Select 1520 (pagina 8 van 16) (Engels)

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MODEL 1520

InstructIOns

Angle Select

Knife Sharpener

Read these instructions before use.

It is essential that you follow these

instructions to achieve optimum results.

IMPORTANT SAFEGUARDS

When using electrical appliances, basic safety precautions should always be

followed including the following:

1. Read all instructions. Every user should read this manual.

2. To protect against electrical hazards, do not immerse the AngleSelect

Model 1520 in

water or other liquid.

3. Make sure that only clean knife blades are inserted in Model 1520.

4. Disconnect the appliance from its power source when not in use, before cleaning, during

service and when replacing parts.

5. Avoid contacting moving parts.

6. Do not operate any appliance with a damaged cord or plug or after the appliance

malfunctions, or is dropped or damaged in any manner.

U.S. customers: You can return your sharpener to EdgeCraft’s factory for service where

the cost of repair or electrical or mechanical adjustment can be estimated. When the

electrical cord on this appliance is damaged, it must be replaced by the Chef’sChoice

distributor or other qualiﬁed service to avoid the danger of electrical shock.

Outside U.S.: Please return your sharpener to your local distributor where the cost

of repair or electrical or mechanical adjustment can be estimated. If the supply cord

of this appliance is damaged, it must be replaced by a repair facility appointed by

the manufacturer because special tools are required. Please consult your Chef’sChoice

distributor.

7. CAUTION! This appliance may be ﬁtted with a polarized power plug (one blade is wider

than the other). To reduce the risk of electric shock, this plug will ﬁt in a polarized outlet

only one way. If the plug does not ﬁt fully in the outlet, reverse the plug. If it still does not

ﬁt, contact a qualiﬁed electrician. Do not modify the plug in anyway.

8. The use of attachments not recommended or sold by EdgeCraft Corporation may cause

ﬁre, electric shock or injury.

9. The Chef’sChoice

AngleSelect

Model 1520 is designed to sharpen American,

European, and Asian style knives. Do not attempt to sharpen scissors, ax blades or any

blade that does not ﬁt freely in the slots.

10. Do not let the cord hang over edge of table or counter or touch hot surfaces.

11. When in the “ON” position (Red ﬂash on switch is exposed when “ON”), the

Chef’sChoice

sharpener should always be on a stable countertop or table.

12. WARNING: KNIVES PROPERLY SHARPENED ON YOUR AngleSelect

Model 1520 WILL BE

SHARPER THAN YOU EXPECT. TO AVOID INJURY, USE AND HANDLE THEM WITH

EXTREME CARE. DO NOT CUT TOWARD ANY PART OF YOUR FINGERS, HAND OR BODY.

DO NOT RUN FINGER ALONG EDGE. STORE IN A SAFE MANNER.

13. Do not use outdoors.

14. Appliance is not intended to be used or cleaned by children or persons with reduced

physical, sensory or mental capabilities or lack of experience and knowledge of the

hazards involved.

15. Do not use honing oils, water or any other lubricant with the AngleSelect

Model 1520.

16. For household use only.

17.

SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS.

YOU MADE

A GOOD

CHOICE

Congratulations! As an owner of the highly versatile Chef’sChoice

AngleSelect

Sharpener Model 1520 you will appreciate how easy it

is to maintain all of your American, European and Asian style knives

in factory sharp condition. A highly precise guide system is provided

to position each style knife automatically at the optimum sharpen-

ing angle as customized diamond abrasive disks quickly restore and

hone a fresh edge. The edge is then stropped with the Chef’sChoice

patented stropping disk to astonishingly sharpness. You will appreciate

the joy of effortless cutting and the unmatched presentation of each

ﬂawless slice.

The Model 1520 is designed to sharpen your Asian style knives with

primary edge facets of 15 degrees (30 degrees total) matching the

sharpness and edge shape of the highest quality Asian knives. Your

American or European knives on the other hand will be sharpened with

primary edge facets of 20 degrees (40 degrees total), the conventional

angle of the Western countries.

Because the typical Asian edge is formed with its primary edge facet

at an angle of 15º (30º total) it is inherently a “sharper” edge than

the conventional Western edge formed at the larger 20º (40º total).

Because the Asian edge is thinner it is usually considered to be a

weaker edge because of that lower angle. Uniquely the Model 1520 is

designed to create a precise 15º primary angle on the Asian blade but

you can at your choice create a second small microbevel along that

edge facet that adds signiﬁcant strength and durability to that already

very sharp edge.

Thus you will realize the extra advantages in sharpness and durability

that has made the Chef’sChoice

Trizor

multibevel edge the edge of

choice for the professional chef.

We strongly encourage you to read the following sections that detail

optimum sharpening procedures for each style blade. Enjoy!

GETTING ACQUAINTED WITH THE MODEL 1520 SHARPENER

The Model 1520 (Figure 1) is a unique three stage sharpener with Stage 1 designed

exclusively to sharpen Asian style (15º faceted) knives. Stage 2 is designed primarily to sharpen

conventional American and European knives. Stage 3 contains the proprietary Chef’sChoice

ultraﬁne abrasive stropping disks designed for both Asian and Euro/American blades to create a

microscopic bevel along the edge and to polish it to astonishing sharpness.

Asian knives (15 degrees) are sharpened ﬁrst with ﬁne diamond abrasives in Stage 1, and then

stropped and polished in Stage 3. Optionally for a stronger edge on Asian style blades two pair of

pulls can be added in Stage 2 to form a small second bevel, before proceeding to Stage 3 which

creates the third microscopic bevel and polishes the resulting edge with micron size abrasive.

American and European knives (20 degrees) are sharpened ﬁrst with ﬁne diamond abrasives in

Stage 2, followed by stropping and polishing with micro abrasives in Stage 3. Knives of the 20º

design are not sharpened in Stage 1 unless as described later you wish to convert this 20º edge

facet to the smaller Asian angle of 15º.

Special procedures for sharpening serrated blades are included beginning on page 12.

All traditional-single sided Asian knives such as sashimi knives require special care and must be

sharpened primarily on one side of the edge as explained in later sections.

The Model 1520 is equipped with a manually actuated diamond cleaning system that can be

used, when necessary, to clean any accumulated food or sharpening debris from the surface

of the ultraﬁne abrasive Stage 3 polishing/stropping disks. We strongly urge that you always

thoroughly clean your knives before sharpening them. Unless you are a heavy user of the sharp-

ener, you will be able to sharpen for months or even a year or more before you need to clean the

stropping/polishing disks. Only if you sense a distinct decrease in polishing efﬁciency in Stage 3

is there any need to use this convenient feature described on page 13.

Figure 1. Chef’sChoice

AngleSelect

Sharpener Model 1520 designed to sharpen both Asian and

the Euro-American style knives.

On/Off

Switch

LeftLeft Left

Stage 2 Stage 3Stage 1

Right Right Right

Sharpen

Euro/American Stropping/Polishing

Sharpen

Asian

Because of their thickness and heavy duty blade design we do not recommend the Model 1520

for the much older thick European cleavers. These can be readily sharpened in Models 120,

2000 and 2100. However, the Model 1520 is ideal for sharpening Asian cleavers.

Never operate the sharpener from the back side. Use just enough downward pressure when

sharpening to ensure uniform and consistent contact of the blade edge with the abrasive disks

on each stroke. (See Suggestions, page 14.) Additional pressure is unnecessary and will not

speed the sharpening process. Avoid excessive cutting into the plastic enclosure. Accidental

cutting into the enclosure however will not functionally impact operations of the sharpener or

damage the edge.

Try a practice pull through the sharpener with the power “OFF”. Slip the knife blade smoothly

into the left slot between the left angle guide of Stage 1 or Stage 2 and the plastic knife

holding spring. Do not twist the knife. Move the blade down in the slot until you feel it contact

the diamond disk. Pull it towards you lifting the handle slightly as you approach the tip. This

practice pull will give you a feel for the spring tension. Remove the knife and read the following

instructions speciﬁc to the type of knife you will be sharpening.

DESCRIPTION OF EURO/AMERICAN AND ASIAN BLADES

Over the years, the European and American blades have been designed to prepare foods

common to their own culture and heritage – namely for heavier foods including a wide

variety of meats and more ﬁbrous vegetables. As a result these knives are generally heavier,

thicker, and sharpened with sturdy 20 degree facets (40 degree total angle) (See Figure 3b). By

contrast the Asian foods have been lighter,

designed primarily for seafood, and less ﬁbrous

vegetables. Consequently many of the Asian

knives are thinner and sharpened with the

more delicate 15 degree facets (See Figure 3a).

Some Asian blades are very specialized, for

example the traditional Japanese blades which

are formed as single sided blades with a single

15 degree facet. Sharpened correctly they are

exceedingly sharp.

Figure 3. Typical

edge, illustrating the

primary facet.

Figure 2. A typical kitchen knife.

Heel

Bolster

Handle

Edge

Tip

Model 15 edge

30°

15°

Primary

Facet

factory edge

40°

20°

Primary

Facet

a. Typical Asian Edge, 15° b. Typical Euro/American Edge, 20°

In recent years, as cultures and foods of the eastern and the western countries have become

more ubiquitous and available on a global scale, the knives commonly associated with those

foods also have become widely available. Many European and American brands are selling

Santoku blades and certain traditional European styles are now sold under Asian brands.

The Model 1520 is designed to sharpen virtually any of this growing variety of blades and to

maintain the angles and edge designs of their tradition.

If one can identify the manufacturer of a knife or establish the country of origin of the

knife’s particular design it is relatively easy to classify the edge as Asian (15 degrees) or as

American/European (20 degrees) and to sharpen

accordingly. For example the Santoku knife is charac-

teristically sharpened as an Asian blade (15 degrees)

regardless of where the knife is manufactured. Other-

wise if you are using a given knife for heavier cutting

or chopping it probably is best sharpened as an Ameri-

can/European blade at 20 degrees. If you use a small

or medium size knife only for light work such as paring,

peeling, or light slicing you may prefer to sharpen it as

an Asian knife at 15 degrees in order to take advantage

of its increased sharpness.

The following descriptions may be helpful in identifying

your knives or in explaining their edge structures.

EUROPEAN/AMERICAN BLADES

(20 DEGREE FACETS)

European/American ﬁne edge blades are universally double

beveled and are sharpened on both sides of the blade. Most of

the Euro/American knives, shown on the right, Figure 4 have

a thick cross-section designed for heavier work. However, the

associated conventional paring, ﬁllet and utility blades, are

smaller and have a relatively thin cross-section well suited to

their intended application.

CONTEMPORARY ASIAN KNIVES

(15 DEGREE FACETS)

The most popular Asian blades; the thin, light weight

Santoku and Nakiri for example are generally double faceted

(sharpened on both faces of the blade) as shown in Figure 5.

Occasionally Santoku knives are sold with single facets but

these are not readily available in the United States.

There are other but somewhat heavier double-faceted Asian

knives, the Deba and Gyutou, popular in Asia, which are

used for chopping hard vegetables, for tailing and ﬁlleting

ﬁsh and for meats. These are basically Asian chefs knives

designed for heavier duty work. While these heavier knives

are commonly sold with 15 degree facets, you may wish

to sharpen them with 20º angles. The Chinese cleaver is

included in this class.

Figure 4. European/American blades are

generally thicker.

Figure 5. Double faceted contemporary Asian

blades are usually thinner.

Figure 6. Single beveled traditional Asian

blades are thinner and sharpened primarily

on one side.

TRADITIONAL JAPANESE KNIVES

(15 DEGREE FACETS)

The traditional Japanese knife is single beveled and has

a large factory bevel A along the lower section of the front

face of the blade. These are sold as either right handed or

left handed versions as shown in Figure 6. The large wide

factory bevel A is ground, commonly at about 10 degrees.

The most popular example of this type blade is the sashimi

knife also known as Yanagi and Takohiki, designed as shown

in Figure 6. This lengthy, thin slicing blade is ideal for prepar-

ing very thin slices of raw tuna or salmon. The back side of

this blade is commonly slightly hollow ground. A small single

cutting edge facet of about 15º is created below the large

factory bevel along the front side of this type blade as shown

in Figures 6 and 7 in order to establish the geometry of the cutting edge. An even smaller cutting micro-

facet (barely visible to the unaided eye) is customarily created at the edge on the back side of the blade

to enhance the sharpness of the ﬁnished edge. Figure 7 shows a greatly enlarged cross-section view of a

typical traditional single-bevel Japanese knife edge as sharpened at the factory. The large factory bevel A

serves to deﬂect the food slice away from the blade as it is cut. When sharpening the traditional Japanese

blades, you should always follow these instructions carefully. Always sharpen this style knife at 15º (Asian

style) unless it is a thicker specialized blade designed for heavy duty work. Always remember these knives

will be extremely sharp.

SHARPENING THE CONTEMPORARY ASIAN KNIFE

OR OTHER DOUBLE-FACETED EDGE AT

15 DEGREES (30º TOTAL)

Virtually all Asian blades are factory sharpened at 15 degrees. The popular Santoku blade shown

above is a typical contemporary Asian style, double faceted and each of its facet is sharpened on

each side at 15 degrees to create a total edge angle of 30º.

HONING THE EDGE IN STAGE 1

Turn ON the power and pull the blade thru the

left slot (Figure 8) of Stage 1, then thru the

adjacent right slot. Repeat pairs of pulls in

Stage 1 using the left and right slots on

alternate pulls. Take about 4-5 seconds for

each pull of a 5” long blade. Take longer for

longer blades and slightly less if shorter. The

ﬁrst time you sharpen this type of knife it may

take up to 10 pair of pulls (alternating left and

right slots) to fully re-angle the edge of a thin

Figure 7. Cross-section of a typical factory

traditional Asian knife edge, magniﬁed 50x

(right-handed).

Figure 8. Sharpen contemporary Asian knives ﬁrst in

Stage 1.

blade. Thicker blades will require more pulls. After 3 pairs of pulls check for a burr as described

below and as necessary continue to make more pairs of pulls until you create a small burr along

the entire length of the blade.

If you are sharpening a contemporary Asian blade (which probably has been sharpened previ-

ously at 15 degrees) you will ﬁnd that only a few (2-4) pairs of alternating pulls (alternating left

and right slots) will be needed to develop a burr. Do not over sharpen. When you have developed

a burr along the full blade length proceed to Stage 3.

DETECTING THE BURR

To conﬁrm the presence of a burr (see Figure 9) move your foreﬁnger carefully across the edge

in the direction shown. Do not move your ﬁnger along the edge – to avoid cutting your ﬁnger. If

the last pull was in the right slot, the burr will appear only on the right side of the blade as you

normally hold it and vice versa. The burr, when present, feels like a rough and bent extension

of the edge; the opposite side of the edge feels very smooth by comparison. If there is no burr

continue sharpening in Stage 1, alternating left and right slots until a full burr develops. When a

burr is present along the entire blade length proceed as below to Stage 3.

STROPPING/POLISHING THE CONTEMPORARY ASIAN EDGE IN STAGE 3

Pull the blade through the left slot (see Figure 10) and then through the right slot of Stage 3.

Make 4 pairs of pulls, (each pull 4-5 seconds) alternating each pull in the left and right slots of

Stage 3. You should then make about 4 to 5 pairs of alternating faster pulls in this Stage, about

1-2 seconds per pull for a 5 inch (12 cm) blade to put a ﬁnal polish on the edge.

Check the blade for sharpness. For a sharper edge make a few more pairs of fast pulls and

check for sharpness. Repeat this procedure as needed to create an exceedingly sharp edge.

RE-SHARPENING THE CONTEMPORARY ASIAN BLADES

Re-sharpen following the Stropping/Polishing procedure in Stage 3 as described above.

Depending on its use, you should be able to re-sharpen to a razor sharp edge 3 or more times

using only Stage 3 before ﬁnding it necessary to again hone in Stage 1. Hone in Stage 1 only

when you ﬁnd it is taking too long or too many pulls in Stage 3 to bring the edge to razor sharp-

ness. In that event, follow the entire honing and stropping/polishing sequence in Stages 1 and

3 as described above.

Note: To recreate the special stronger Trizor

edge (discussed in the following section) on the

Asian style blades as you re-sharpen make two pair of pulls (3 second pulls) in Stage 2 after the

burr has been developed in Stage 1. Finish re-sharpening in Stage 3 as described in this section.

Burr

Figure 9. When you create a distinct burr along the

blade edge, it can be detected by sliding ﬁnger across

and away from the edge. Caution! See text.

Figure 10. Stropping/Polishing a contemporary Asian

knife in Stage 3.

DEVELOPING THE TRIZOR

TRIPLE BEVEL EDGE

FOR CONTEMPORARY ASIAN AND 15 DEGREE KNIVES

The thin 15 degree edge (30 degree total) noted for its sharpness is generally considered slightly

less durable than the 20 degree (40 degree total) faceted edge. The unique Chef’sChoice Model

1520 is designed, at your option to create in Stage 2 a small intermediate bevel along the edge

of the 15 degree facet before the ﬁnal microbevel is created in Stage 3 where the edge is

polished to astonishingly sharpness.

To create the Trizor

edge, sharpen the 15 degree edge ﬁrst in Stage 1 as described above until

a burr is fully developed. Then move to Stage 2: Make two pairs of pulls of about 2 seconds for

a 5” blade. A small burr will exist along the edge. Do not make more pulls in Stage 2. The small

bevel developed by the two pair of pulls will make a micro-arch at the very tip of the primary

edge facet and leave you with a stronger edge without a noticable change in sharpness of

the knife.

Proceed to Stage 3 and follow the instructions in the proceeding section for Stropping/Polishing

in Stage 3.

SHARPENING THE TRADITIONAL (SINGLE SIDED)

JAPANESE BLADE

Traditional Japanese knives such as the sashimi blade shown above are single sided and have a

large factory bevel (Bevel A, Figure 6) on the front side of the blade. There are a large number of

manufacturers of knives of this type used widely to prepare sashimi. The factory bevel (Bevel A)

is commonly ground at about 10 degrees, but there are exceptions as that angle is not standard-

ized at the Asian factories. Designs of the traditional Japanese knives and the detailed structure

of the cutting edges likewise varies widely from one manufacturer to the next, however there

are some similarities. The cutting edge consists of a small primary facet on the front face of the

blade below the large factory bevel and includes a much smaller secondary microfacet along

the back face. Commonly the back side microfacet (Figure 7) can be easily seen only with a

hand magniﬁer. The back face is ground ﬂat at the factory or more commonly it is slightly hollow

ground to ensure that an effective microfacet can be formed there as part of the cutting edge.

Because of the lack of standardization, the manual approach is commonly used to sharpen

these knives in Asia. Consequently sharpening these knives continues to be difﬁcult, laborious

and time consuming. The Chef’sChoice

Model 1520 Sharpener is designed to sharpen virtually

all traditional Asian blades and to create a factory-quality edge.

Before you start to sharpen a traditional Japanese blade, examine it carefully in order to conﬁrm

that you have the traditional single bevel blade and to determine whether you have a right or

left handed type as described on page 6, Figure 6. It is essential that you follow carefully the

sharpening procedure and sequence as described below in order to achieve the optimum edge

on your traditional blade.

Conﬁrm which side of the blade has the large factory Bevel A. Hold the blade in your hand (as

when you are cutting) and if the large factory bevel is on the right side of the blade, the blade

is right handed. For the right handed blades sharpen only in the left slot of Stage 1 so that

only the beveled side (right side) of the edge will contact the honing wheel. Proceed as

described below.

STEP 1

HONING TRADITIONAL JAPANESE KNIVES IN STAGE 1

(RIGHT HANDED BLADES)

In this example which assumes your traditional blade is right handed, you must hone only in the

left slot of Stage 1 (see Figure 11). The number of pulls that you will need to make depends on

the factory angle of Bevel A (Figure 6 and 7) and how dull your blade may be.

Make ﬁve (5) to ten (10) pulls (3-4 seconds) in only the left slot of Stage 1 and then check for a

burr along the entire back side of the blade edge. (The burr created in Stage 1 will be small but

can be felt as shown in Figure 9. Make certain the burr is present along the entire length of the

edge. If there is no burr or only a partial burr, continue to make

additional pulls all in the left slot about ﬁve (5) at a time and check for a burr after each group

of ﬁve (5) pulls. In general 20-30 total pulls in the left slot will be adequate to raise a burr; it is

unlikely to take more than 50 left slot pulls to create the burr. When a burr is conﬁrmed, proceed

to Step 2.

STEP 2

STROPPING/POLISHING THE FINAL EDGE ON TRADITIONAL JAPANESE BLADE IN STAGE 3

(RIGHT HANDED BLADES)

a. Make ﬁve to eight (5-8) slow pulls, 3-4 seconds each, only in the left slot of Stage 3 (Figure

12) and then proceed to remove the burr in step b below.

b. Make one (1) regular pull in right slot of Stage 3 along the back side of the edge. (Pull about

3-4 seconds.)

c. Make 2-3 pair of fast pulls (1-2 seconds each) alternating in left and right slots of Stage 3.

Test blade for sharpness using a thin sheet of paper. It should be razor sharp but if not repeat

steps a, b and c above.

Figure 11. Hone traditional Japanese knife only in left

slot of Stage 1 (right handed).

Figure 12. Strop and Polish edge of traditional Japanese

knife in Stage 3. Follow instructions carefully.

RESHARPENING THE TRADITIONAL JAPANESE BLADE (RIGHT HANDED)

In general you will be able to re-sharpen quickly by following the sequence of Step 2 above.

Repeat this if necessary to obtain a razor sharp edge. When re-sharpening only in Stage 3 fails

to develop a sharp edge or if the edge has been substantially dulled you will need to re-hone

the edge in Stage 1. Use only the left slot of Stage 1. Generally you will ﬁnd that about ﬁve (5)

re-honing pulls will be sufﬁcient in Stage 1. In any event develop a burr before moving again to

Stage 3. Finish the edge in Stage 3 following Steps 2a, b and c.

SHARPENING LEFT HANDED TRADITIONAL JAPANESE BLADES

The procedure you must use with left handed blades is similar to that procedure for right handed

blades as detailed above – Except in all cases the slots you must use are reversed. Where the

sharpening procedure for right handed blades calls for use of just the left slot, you must use only

the right slot when sharpening a left-handed blade. Likewise use the left slot where ever the

right handed instructions call for using the right slot.

SHARPENING EUROPEAN/AMERICAN KNIVES

All knives from European or American manufacturers are double sided, and consequently must be

sharpened on both sides of the blade. The edge is customarily sharpened at 20 degrees forming

two facets at that angle to create a total edge angle of 40 degrees. Where these knives are gener-

ally used for heavier tasks the stronger 20 degree faceted edge is usually most appropriate.

Sharpening the European/American knife is a two step sharpening process, honing ﬁrst in Stage

2 and followed by stropping/polishing in Stage 3. (You do not use Stage 1 for these knives unless

you wish to convert them to the Asian angle of 15 degrees as described later.)

STEP 1: HONING, STAGE 2

Do not use Stage 1.

Stage 2 will create the primary facet of 20 degrees on the European/American knife. Turn on

the power switch. Start by slipping the blade between the left angle guide of Stage 2 (Figure 13)

and the knife holding spring while pulling the blade toward you and simultaneously moving the

blade downward in the slot until it engages the diamond coated disk. You will hear it contact the

disk. Insert the blade as close as possible to the bolster or handle. If the blade is curved lift the

handle slightly as you sharpen near the tip of the knife. Sharpen the entire blade length. Then

repeat with one full length pull in the right slot of Stage 2. Always make pairs of pulls, alternating

pulls in the left and right slots of that Stage. Each pull should be about 4-5 seconds for 5” long

blade and slightly slower for longer blades. Make about ﬁve (5) pairs of pulls, then check for a

burr along the entire edge length. (See page 8 and Figure 9). Continue with more alternating

pairs of pulls until the presence of a burr is conﬁrmed. More pulls will be needed if the knife is

very dull.

STEP 2: STROPPING/POLISHING, STAGE 3

In Stage 3 make three (3) to four (4) pairs of slow pulls each about 4 seconds, alternating in the

left and right slots.

Follow this, still in Stage 3, with three (3) pairs of faster pulls each about 1-2 seconds, alternating

in the left and right slots. There should not be a noticeable burr along the edge. Test blade for

sharpness. It should be incredibly sharp. If not sharp repeat this Step 2.

RESHARPENING EUROPEAN/AMERICAN KNIVES

Re-sharpen the European/American knives whenever practical using just Stage 3 following the

instructions (Step 2) above. When that fails to quickly re-sharpen, return to Stage 2 and make

two or three pairs of alternating pulls. Check for a burr along the edge and when a burr exists

proceed again to Stage 3 following the instructions in the preceding section.

CONVERTING EUROPEAN/AMERICAN KNIFE EDGE

TO 15 DEGREE ASIAN STYLE EDGE

With the Model 1520 you can convert any European or American style knives that are used

primarily for light duty work to the 15 degree Asian edge. For example you might consider

converting light duty paring knives and thin utility blades to 15 degrees. To make this conversion

follow the Instructions for Sharpening Asian Blades, pages 7 to 9. Initial sharpening in Stage 1

will take longer than you might expect but subsequent resharpening time will be normal.

PROCEDURE FOR SHARPENING SERRATED BLADES

Serrated blades are similar to saw blades with scalloped depressions and a series of pointed

teeth. In normal use the pointed teeth do most of the cutting.

Serrated blades of all types can be sharpened in the Chef’sChoice

Model 1520. However, use

only Stage 3 (Figure 14) which will sharpen the teeth of the serrations and develop microblades

Figure 13. Honing in Stage 2 (left slot). European and

American style blade.

Figure 14. Use only Stage 3 for sharpening

serrated knives.

along the edge of these teeth. Generally ﬁve (5) to ten (10) pairs of alternating pulls in left and

right slots of Stage 3 will be adequate. If the knife is very dull more pulls will be needed. If

the knife edge has been severely damaged thru use make one fast pull (2-3 seconds for an

8” blade) in each of the right and left slots of Stage 2, then make a series of pulls in Stage 3,

alternating right and left slots. Excessive use of Stage 2 will remove more metal along the edge

than is necessary in order to sharpen the teeth.

Because serrated blades are saw-like structures, the edges will never appear to be as “sharp”

as the edge on a straight edge knife. However, their tooth-like structure can be helpful – for

example to break the skin on hard crusty foods or to cut tough paper based materials.

DRESSING OF STROPPING/POLISHING DISKS – STAGE 3

The Model 1520 is equipped with a built-in system to manually clean/dress the stropping/

polishing disks in Stage 3. In the event these disks become glazed with grease, food or sharpening

debris, they can be cleaned and reshaped by actuating the manual lever on the rear of the

sharpener. This lever is located within a recess as shown in Figure 15 on the lower left corner as

you face the rear of the sharpener. To actuate the cleaning/dressing tool, make sure the power

is “ON” and simply press the small lever in the recess to the right, hold about 3-4 seconds and

then press to the left holding for 3-4 seconds. When the lever is moved in one direction, the

dressing tool cleans and reshapes the active surface of one stropping/polishing disk. By moving

the lever in the opposite direction you clean the other disk.

Use this clean/dress mechanism only if the Stage 3 white disks are seriously darkened and

when Stage 3 no longer appears to be stropping/polishing well. Using this tool removes

material from the surface of the Stage 3 disks and hence, if used excessively, it will

unnecessarily remove too much of the abrasive surface – wearing the disks prematurely. If

that should occur, factory replacement of the disks will become necessary. If you clean your

knives regularly before sharpening you will likely need to clean or dress the Stage 3 disks less

than once a year.

Figure 15. Use dressing tools sparingly.

SUGGESTIONS

1. Always clean all food, fat and foreign materials from the blade surfaces before sharpening or

resharpening. If badly soiled, use detergent and water to clean.

2. Some contemporary Asian knives and Granton type blades are dimpled and some contem-

porary and traditional Asian blades are made of layered Damascus steel. All of these should

be sharpened accordingly to these instructions depending solely on whether the knife style

is contemporary (two facets) or a traditional single facet Asian blade.

3. Always pull the blades at the recommended speed and at a constant rate over length of

blade. Never interrupt or stop the motion of the blade when in contact with abrasive disks.

4. Carefully follow the detailed procedures for each type blade for best results and to extend the

useful life of your knives. The sharpening sequence is especially important with the single

sided traditional Asian blades.

5. The edge of the knife blade, while sharpening, should remain in contact with the abrasive

disks as the knife is withdrawn from the guiding slot. To sharpen the blade near the tip

of a curved blade, lift the handle up slightly as you approach the tip of the blade but just

enough so that the edge as it is being sharpened maintains audible contact with the honing

or stropping disk.

6. To increase your proﬁciency with the Chef’sChoice

Model 1520, learn how to detect a burr

along the edge (as described on page 8). While you might be able to sharpen well without

using this technique, it is the fastest way to determine when you have sharpened sufﬁciently

in the preliminary steps. This will help you avoid oversharpening and ensure incredibly sharp

edges every time. Cutting a tomato or a piece of paper is a convenient method of checking

for ﬁnished blade sharpness.

7. Use only light downward pressure when sharpening – just enough to establish secure

contact with the abrasive disk.

8. If your knife has a signiﬁcant choil you may ﬁnd it helpful to place your index ﬁnger within

or just behind the choil (see Figures 16 and 17) as you insert the blade in the sharpener

(Be careful! The tip of the choil may be sharp). Your ﬁnger can act as a “stop” and prevent

Figure 16. If your blade has a signiﬁcant choil it

may be helpful to place a ﬁnger behind it as shown

when sharpening.

Figure 17. Insert your index ﬁnger as shown behind the

choil as the knife is inserted into the sharpening slot

(see Suggestion 8.)

Choil

you from inserting the blade so far that the choil area will catch on the front stop-bar of the

sharpener as you withdraw the blade. A little practice will help you perfect this technique. As

you insert the blade let your ﬁnger slide down the front of the sharpener.

9. Used correctly, you will ﬁnd you can sharpen the entire blade to within 1/8” of the bolster or

the sharpener handle. This is a major advantage of the Chef’sChoice

Model 1520 compared

to other sharpening methods—especially important when sharpening chef’s knives where

you need to sharpen the entire blade length in order to maintain the curvature of the edge

line. If your chef’s knives have a heavy, thick bolster near the handle extending to the edge,

a commercial grinder can modify or remove the lower portion of the bolster so it will not

interfere with the sharpening action, allowing you to sharpen the entire blade length.

10. The stropping/polishing disks in Stage 3 are designed to last for years of use, however

you can maximize their useful life by periodically modifying your sharpening pattern in the

preceeding Stage used. The burr developed in the preceeding Stage will mildly wear the

stropping/polishing disk it ﬁrst contacts in Stage 3. Vary your last pull in the preceeding

Stage (Stage 1 or Stage 2) by sometimes making the last pull on the left disk and at other

times ﬁnish on the right disk of that Stage.

11. Do not attempt to use this sharpener to sharpen either ceramic knives or scissors.

NORMAL MAINTENANCE

No lubrication is required for any moving parts, motor, bearings, or sharpening surfaces. There

is no need for water on abrasives. The exterior of the sharpener may be cleaned by carefully

wiping with a damp cloth. Do not use detergents or abrasives

Once a year or so as needed you should remove metal dust that will accumulate inside the

sharpener from repeated sharpenings. Remove the small rectangular clean-out cover (Figure

18) that covers an opening on the underside of the sharpener. You will ﬁnd metal particles

adhered to a magnet attached to the inside of that cover. Simply rub off or brush off accumulated

ﬁlings from the magnet with a paper towel or tooth brush and reinsert the cover in the opening.

If larger amounts of metal or other dust have been created you can shake out any remaining

dust through the bottom opening when the cover is removed. After cleaning, replace the cover

securely with its magnet in place.

Figure 18. Removing cover under base to clean out

metal dust (See Normal Maintenance section).

SERVICE

In the event post-warranty service is needed, return your sharpener to the EdgeCraft factory

where the cost of repair can be estimated before the repair is undertaken. Outside the USA,

contact your retailer or national distributor.

Please include your return address, daytime telephone number and a brief description of the

problem or damage on a separate sheet inside the box. Retain a shipping receipt as evidence of

shipment and as your protection against loss in shipment.

Assembled in the U.S.A. www.chefschoice.com

This product may be covered by one or more EdgeCraft patents and/or patents pending as marked on the product.

Chef’sChoice

, EdgeCraft

, AngleSelect

, Trizor

and the overall design of this product are registered trademarks

of EdgeCraft Corporation, Avondale, PA.

Conforms to UL Std. 982 Certiﬁed to CAN/CSA Std. C22.2 No. 64

Certiﬁed to EN 60335-1, EN 60335-2, EN 55014-1+A1, EN 61000-3-2, EN 61000-3-3

C14 C528200

EdgeCraft Corporation

825 Southwood Road, Avondale, PA 19311 U.S.A.

Customer Service (800) 342-3255 or 610-268-0500

EdgeCraft Chef-s Choice - Angle Select 1520 Handleiding

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