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Bike Manual
Winora Group
Englisch
Saddle
Handlebars
Stem
Headset
Suspension fork
Brake system
Seat post
Pedal
Rear derailleur
Front derailleur
Crankset
Cassette sprockets
Shift lever
Wheel
Brake
Drive
Chain
Rear shock
Seat post clamp
Rotor
Brake lever
Quick-release
Valve
Tyre
Rim
Rear brake
Frame
1 Top tube
2 Down tube
3 Seat tube
4 Chainstay
u
v
w
x
I. Fork crown
II. Stanchion tube
III. Lower leg
IV. Drop-out
I.
II.
III.
IV.
Spoke
Hub
Mountain Bike (MTB)
Saddle
Handlebars
Stem
Headset
Brake system
Seat post
Pedal Frame
Wheel
Drive
Shift lever
Lighting
Pannier rack
Mudguard
Kickstand
Lighting
Reector ring
Rear brake
Seat post clamp
Brake lever
Quick-release
Tyre
Hub
Rim
Brake
Front light
Hub dynamo
Rear derailleur
Cassette sprockets
Front derailleur
Reector
Rear light
Chain
1 Top tube
u
2 Down tube
3 Seat tube
4 Chainstay
v
w
x
I.
II.
III.
Spoke
Valve
IV.
Crankset
Suspension fork
I. Fork crown
II. Stanchion tube
III. Lower leg
IV. Drop-out
Trekking Bike
Saddle
Handlebars
Stem
Headset
Brake system
Seat post
Pedal
Rear derailleur
Cassette sprockets
Wheel
Brake
Drive
Chain
Shift lever
Rear brake
Seat post clamp
Front derailleur
Quick-release
Tyre
Hub
Rim
Brake lever
Frame
1 Top tube
2 Down tube
3 Seat tube
4 Chainstay
u
v
w
x
I.
Crankset
Fork
I. Fork blade
II. Drop-out
II.
Spoke
Valve
Road Racing Bike
1
1 Welcome
In purchasing this bicycle you have chosen a product of high quality and
technology. Each component of your new bicycle has been designed, man-
ufactured and assembled with great care and expertise. Your dealer gave
the bicycle its final assembly and performed a function check to guarantee
proper operation. You can now set off to enjoy your new bicycle feeling safe
and secure.
This manual contains a wealth of information on the proper use of your
bicycle, its maintenance and operation as well as interesting details about
bicycle design and engineering. Please read these instructions thoroughly.
We are sure that even if you have been cycling all your life you will find it
worthwhile. Bicycle technology has developed at a rapid pace during recent
years. Therefore, before setting off on your new bicycle, be sure to read at
least the chapter “Before Your FIRST Ride“.
To have as much fun as possible during cycling, be sure to carry out the
minimum functional check described in chapter “Before EVERY Ride” be-
fore setting off. This manual cannot teach you the skills of a bicycle me-
chanic. Even a manual as big as an encyclopaedia could not describe every
possible combination of available bicycles and components. It therefore fo-
cuses on your newly purchased bicycle and standard components provid-
ing important information and warnings.
When doing maintenance or repair work, be aware that the detailed instruc-
tions provided in your manual only refer to these bicycles.
The information included here is not applicable to any other bicycle. As bi-
cycles come in a wide variety of designs with frequent model changes, the
routines described may not be complete. In addition, please observe the
instructions of the component suppliers that you have received from your
bicycle dealer.
Be aware that these instructions may require further explanation, depend-
ing on the experience and/or skills of the person doing the work. For some
jobs you may require additional (special) tools or supplementary instructions.
For your own safety, never do work on your bicycle unless you
feel absolutely sure about it. If you are in doubt or if you have
any questions, please contact your bicycle dealer!
Imprint

WINORA GROUP
Winora-Staiger GmbH
D-97404 Schweinfurt
Phone: +49 (0) 9721 / 65 01-0
Mail: info@winora-group.de
Web: www.winora-group.de

Zedler – Institut für Fahrradtechnik und -Sicherheit GmbH
D-71634 Ludwigsburg
Mail: info@zedler.de
Web: www.zedler.de
Technical details in the text and illustrations of this manual are subject to
change.
Liability of the editor, editorial department and other third parties for articles
in this brochure and damage whatsoever resulting thereof shall be excluded,
unless they are due to gross negligence.
©
No part of this publication may be reprinted, translated, copied or trans-
mitted in any form or by any means, e.g. electronic, mechanical, by hand or
otherwise for another business purpose without prior written permission of
the author or the editor.
Edition 2, February 2012
Before you set off, let us point out a few things that are very important to
every cyclist: Never ride without a properly adjusted helmet and without
glasses and take care to always wear suitable clothing. At least you should
wear straight cut trousers and shoes fitting the pedal system. Always ride
carefully on public roads and observe the traffic rules so as not to endanger
yourself or others.
This manual cannot teach you how to ride. Please be aware that cycling
is a hazardous activity that requires the rider to stay in control of his or her
bicycle at all times.
Like any sport, cycling involves the risk of injury. Keep this in mind. When
you decide to ride a bicycle you need to accept the risk inherent to cycling.
Please note that on a bicycle you have no protection technology around you
(e.g. bodywork, airbag) like you have in a car. Therefore, always ride care-
fully and respect other traffic participants. Never ride under the influence of
drugs, medication, alcohol or when you are tired. Do not ride with a second
person on your bicycle and always ride with your hands on the handlebars.
Observe the legal regulations concerning off-road cycling. These regula-
tions may differ in each country. Please respect nature when riding off-road.
Only use your bicycle on signposted, well-maintained trails and hard-surface
roads.
First we would like to familiarise you with the various components used on
your bicycle. Please unfold the cover of this manual. Here you will find the
diagrams of three bicycles showing all the essential components. Leave the
page unfolded as you read so that you can easily locate the components as
they are referred to in the text.
Have a nice cycle trip!
Your  team
Imprint

WINORA GROUP
Winora-Staiger GmbH
D-97404 Schweinfurt
Phone: +49 (0) 9721 / 65 01-0
Mail: info@winora-group.de
Web: www.winora-group.de

Zedler – Institut für Fahrradtechnik und -Sicherheit GmbH
D-71634 Ludwigsburg
Mail: info@zedler.de
Web: www.zedler.de
Technical details in the text and illustrations of this manual are subject to
change.
Liability of the editor, editorial department and other third parties for articles
in this brochure and damage whatsoever resulting thereof shall be excluded,
unless they are due to gross negligence.
©
No part of this publication may be reprinted, translated, copied or trans-
mitted in any form or by any means, e.g. electronic, mechanical, by hand or
otherwise for another business purpose without prior written permission of
the author or the editor.
Edition 2, February 2012
Before you set off, let us point out a few things that are very important to
every cyclist: Never ride without a properly adjusted helmet and without
glasses and take care to always wear suitable clothing. At least you should
wear straight cut trousers and shoes fitting the pedal system. Always ride
carefully on public roads and observe the traffic rules so as not to endanger
yourself or others.
This manual cannot teach you how to ride. Please be aware that cycling
is a hazardous activity that requires the rider to stay in control of his or her
bicycle at all times.
Like any sport, cycling involves the risk of injury. Keep this in mind. When
you decide to ride a bicycle you need to accept the risk inherent to cycling.
Please note that on a bicycle you have no protection technology around you
(e.g. bodywork, airbag) like you have in a car. Therefore, always ride care-
fully and respect other traffic participants. Never ride under the influence of
drugs, medication, alcohol or when you are tired. Do not ride with a second
person on your bicycle and always ride with your hands on the handlebars.
Observe the legal regulations concerning off-road cycling. These regula-
tions may differ in each country. Please respect nature when riding off-road.
Only use your bicycle on signposted, well-maintained trails and hard-surface
roads.
First we would like to familiarise you with the various components used on
your bicycle. Please unfold the cover of this manual. Here you will find the
diagrams of three bicycles showing all the essential components. Leave the
page unfolded as you read so that you can easily locate the components as
they are referred to in the text.
Have a nice cycle trip!
Your  team
 
5.3.1 Checking Hydraulic Disc Brakes 39
5.3.2 Checking and Readjusting Mechanical Disc Brakes 39
 
5.4.1 Checking and Readjusting Hand-Operated Brakes 42
5.4.2 Checking and Readjusting Back-Pedal Brakes 43
6 Drive System 44
 
6.1.1 Bottom Bracket - Crankset 44
 
6.2.1 Derailleur Gears – How They Work and How to Operate Them
on Mountain, Fitness, City, Kids’ and Trekking Bicycles 45
6.2.2 Derailleur Gears – How They Work and How to Use Them
on Road Racing Bicycles 46
 
6.3.1 Rear Derailleur 48
6.3.2 Checking the Limit Stops 49
6.3.3 Front Derailleur 50
 
6.4.1 Multi-Speed Hubs - How They Work and How to Use Them 51
6.4.2 Checking and Readjusting 52
 
6.5.1 Combined Derailleur/Hub Gears - How They Work and
How to Use Them 53
6.5.2 Readjusting (Internal Gear Hubs) 53
 
 
6.7.1 Chain Maintenance 54
6.7.2 Chain Wear 54
6.7.3 Adjusting the Chain Tension of Single Speed Bicycles and
Multi-Speed Hubs 55
7 Wheels and Tyres 56
 
 
 
 
 
7.5.1 Wheel Removal 60
7.5.2 Tyre Removal (Clincher, Folding Tyres) 61
7.5.3 Tyre Mounting (Clincher, Folding Tyres) 62
7.5.4 Removal of Tubeless Tyres 63
7.5.5 Repair of Tubeless Tyres 63
7.5.6 Mounting Tubeless Tyres 64
7.5.7 Removal of Tubular Tyres 64
7.5.8 Mounting Tubular Tyres 64
7.5.9 Wheel Mounting 67
 
8 Headset 70
 
 


9 Suspension 73
 
 
9.2.1 Adjusting the Spring Rate 74
9.2.2 Adjusting the Damping Control 76
9.2.3 Adjusting the Travel 77
9.2.4 Maintenance 77
 
9.3.1 Adjusting the Seating Position 78
9.3.2 Adjusting the Spring Rate 79
9.3.3 Adjusting the Damping Control 80
9.3.4 Maintenance 82
 
9.4.1 Adjustment 83
9.4.2 Check and Maintenance 83
10 Carbon – Important Information 84
Contents
2.4.3 Sport Line 26
2.4.4 Trekking Line 26
 
2.5.1 Comfort Edition 27
2.5.2 Trekking Edition 27
2.5.3 Travel Edition 27
2.5.4 Cross Edition 28
2.5.5 Race and Fitness Edition 28
2.5.6 Folding Bicycles 28
3 Legal Requirements for Riding on Public Roads 29
4 Useful Tips for Cycling in Town and Country 30
 
 
5 Brake System 32
 
5.1.1 Brakes – How They Work and What to Do About Wear 33
 
5.2.1 V-Brakes 34
5.2.1.1 Functional Check 34
5.2.1.2 Power Modulator 35
5.2.1.3 Synchronising and Readjusting 35
5.2.2 Racing and/or Side-Pull Brakes 36
5.2.2.1 Functional Check 36
5.2.2.2 Vertical Adjustment 36
5.2.2.3 Synchronising and Readjusting 36
5.2.3 Cyclocross Cantilever Brakes 37
5.2.3.1 Functional Check 37
5.2.3.2 Synchronising and Readjusting 37
5.2.4 Hydraulic Rim Brakes 37
5.2.4.1 Checking and Readjusting 38
1 Welcome 1




 
 
 
1.5.1 Quick-Releases 13
1.5.2 Thru Axles 15
2 Intended Use 17
 
2.1.1 City, Touring, Sports, Kids’ and Youth Bicycles 17
2.1.2 Trekking Bicycles / ATB 18
2.1.3 Mountain Bikes (MTB) / Cross Bicycles 18
2.1.4 Road Racing Bicycles 19
 
2.2.1 Performance Line 21
2.2.2 Comp Line and Pro Line 21
2.2.3 Special Edition 22
2.2.4 Life Line 23
 
2.3.1 Trekking Line / S.U.B. Line 24
2.3.2 Cross Line 24
2.3.3 Folding Bicycles 24
2.3.4 City Line 24
2.3.5 ATB Line 25
2.3.6 Kids’ Bicycles 25
2.3.7 E-Bike / Pedelec 25
 
2.4.1 Urban Line 26
2.4.2 ATB Line 26
 
5.3.1 Checking Hydraulic Disc Brakes 39
5.3.2 Checking and Readjusting Mechanical Disc Brakes 39
 
5.4.1 Checking and Readjusting Hand-Operated Brakes 42
5.4.2 Checking and Readjusting Back-Pedal Brakes 43
6 Drive System 44
 
6.1.1 Bottom Bracket - Crankset 44
 
6.2.1 Derailleur Gears – How They Work and How to Operate Them
on Mountain, Fitness, City, Kids’ and Trekking Bicycles 45
6.2.2 Derailleur Gears – How They Work and How to Use Them
on Road Racing Bicycles 46
 
6.3.1 Rear Derailleur 48
6.3.2 Checking the Limit Stops 49
6.3.3 Front Derailleur 50
 
6.4.1 Multi-Speed Hubs - How They Work and How to Use Them 51
6.4.2 Checking and Readjusting 52
 
6.5.1 Combined Derailleur/Hub Gears - How They Work and
How to Use Them 53
6.5.2 Readjusting (Internal Gear Hubs) 53
 
 
6.7.1 Chain Maintenance 54
6.7.2 Chain Wear 54
6.7.3 Adjusting the Chain Tension of Single Speed Bicycles and
Multi-Speed Hubs 55
7 Wheels and Tyres 56
 
 
 
 
 
7.5.1 Wheel Removal 60
7.5.2 Tyre Removal (Clincher, Folding Tyres) 61
7.5.3 Tyre Mounting (Clincher, Folding Tyres) 62
7.5.4 Removal of Tubeless Tyres 63
7.5.5 Repair of Tubeless Tyres 63
7.5.6 Mounting Tubeless Tyres 64
7.5.7 Removal of Tubular Tyres 64
7.5.8 Mounting Tubular Tyres 64
7.5.9 Wheel Mounting 67
 
8 Headset 70
 
 


9 Suspension 73
 
 
9.2.1 Adjusting the Spring Rate 74
9.2.2 Adjusting the Damping Control 76
9.2.3 Adjusting the Travel 77
9.2.4 Maintenance 77
 
9.3.1 Adjusting the Seating Position 78
9.3.2 Adjusting the Spring Rate 79
9.3.3 Adjusting the Damping Control 80
9.3.4 Maintenance 82
 
9.4.1 Adjustment 83
9.4.2 Check and Maintenance 83
10 Carbon – Important Information 84
Contents
2.4.3 Sport Line 26
2.4.4 Trekking Line 26
 
2.5.1 Comfort Edition 27
2.5.2 Trekking Edition 27
2.5.3 Travel Edition 27
2.5.4 Cross Edition 28
2.5.5 Race and Fitness Edition 28
2.5.6 Folding Bicycles 28
3 Legal Requirements for Riding on Public Roads 29
4 Useful Tips for Cycling in Town and Country 30
 
 
5 Brake System 32
 
5.1.1 Brakes – How They Work and What to Do About Wear 33
 
5.2.1 V-Brakes 34
5.2.1.1 Functional Check 34
5.2.1.2 Power Modulator 35
5.2.1.3 Synchronising and Readjusting 35
5.2.2 Racing and/or Side-Pull Brakes 36
5.2.2.1 Functional Check 36
5.2.2.2 Vertical Adjustment 36
5.2.2.3 Synchronising and Readjusting 36
5.2.3 Cyclocross Cantilever Brakes 37
5.2.3.1 Functional Check 37
5.2.3.2 Synchronising and Readjusting 37
5.2.4 Hydraulic Rim Brakes 37
5.2.4.1 Checking and Readjusting 38
1 Welcome 1




 
 
 
1.5.1 Quick-Releases 13
1.5.2 Thru Axles 15
2 Intended Use 17
 
2.1.1 City, Touring, Sports, Kids’ and Youth Bicycles 17
2.1.2 Trekking Bicycles / ATB 18
2.1.3 Mountain Bikes (MTB) / Cross Bicycles 18
2.1.4 Road Racing Bicycles 19
 
2.2.1 Performance Line 21
2.2.2 Comp Line and Pro Line 21
2.2.3 Special Edition 22
2.2.4 Life Line 23
 
2.3.1 Trekking Line / S.U.B. Line 24
2.3.2 Cross Line 24
2.3.3 Folding Bicycles 24
2.3.4 City Line 24
2.3.5 ATB Line 25
2.3.6 Kids’ Bicycles 25
2.3.7 E-Bike / Pedelec 25
 
2.4.1 Urban Line 26
2.4.2 ATB Line 26

The technology of today’s bicycles has become very complex. As there
is a vast range of bicycle components, this manual focuses on the most
important parts including general features. Therefore, be sure to observe
the additional adjustment and/or maintenance instructions of the respective
component manufacturers that you have received from your bicycle dealer
together with this manual.
If you intend to do any maintenance or repair work by yourself, you should
keep in mind that today’s bicycle technology requires a considerable amount
of know-how as well as special tools , such as e.g. a torque wrench .
Have your bicycle serviced by your bicycle dealer to be on the safe side.
The following information refers to your bicycle by using the specific techni-
cal terms. Therefore, make yourself familiar with your bicycle. Please unfold
the front cover of this manual. You will find the diagrams of three bicycles
showing the components found on your bicycle. Leave the page unfolded
as you read so that you can easily locate the components as they are re-
ferred to in the text.
The table of contents will quickly lead you to the part you are interested in.
This symbol signifies information about how to handle the prod-
uct or refers to a passage in the operating instructions that de-
serves your special attention.
This symbol indicates an imminent risk of damage to your bicy-
cle or the environment unless you comply with the instructions
given or take preventive measures.
This symbol indicates an imminent risk to your life or health (e.g.
as a result of a crash or accident) unless you comply with the
instructions given or take preventive measures.
Please note that the aforementioned consequences will not be repeated
each time the symbols appear in the manual.
This manual does not help you to assemble a bicycle from individual parts,
to repair it or to make a partly assembled bicycle ready-for-use!
Technical details in the text and illustrations of this manual are subject to
change.
This manual complies with the requirements of the European standards EN
14764 / EN 14765 / EN 14766 und EN 14781.
Be sure to also observe the included instructions of the component manu-
facturers. This manual is subject to European law. If delivered to countries
outside Europe, supplementary information has to be provided by the bicy-
cle manufacturer.
a
b
11 Dirt-, Freeride-, Downhill-Bikes – Special Features 86
 
12 Lighting 88
 
 
 
13 Kids’ Bicycles 90
 
 
14 Adjusting the Bicycle to the Rider 93
 
14.1.1 What to Bear in Mind with Integrated Seat Posts 95
 
14.2.1 Adjustable Stems 96
14.2.2 Conventional Stems 97
14.2.3 Stems for Threadless Systems, the Aheadset
®
-System 98
14.2.4 Adjusting Adjustable Handlebar Systems (A.H.S.) 99
 
14.3.1 Adjusting Saddle Position and Tilt 100
 
14.4.1 Adjusting the Brake Lever Reach of Road Racing Bicycles 101
14.4.2 Adjusting the Tilt of Handlebars and Brake Levers on
Road Racing Bicycles 102
14.4.3 Adjusting the Brake Lever Reach of Trekking, City, BMX,
Kids’ and Mountain Bikes 103
14.4.4 Adjusting the Tilt of Handlebars, Bar Ends and Brake
Levers of Trekking, City, BMX, Kids’ and Mountain Bikes 104
15 All About Bicycles 106
 
15.1.1 Transporting Baggage with Full-Suspension Frames 107
 
15.2.1 Child Carriers 107
15.2.2 Child Trailers 108
15.2.3 Kids’ Tandem Bicycles / Trailer Systems 109
 
 
 
15.5.1 Additional Fittings 112
15.5.2 Trailers 113
15.5.3 Bar Ends 113
15.5.4 Cycle Computers 113
15.5.5 Baskets 113
15.5.6 Puncture Kit 114
15.5.7 Kickstand 114
15.5.8 Mirrors 114
15.5.9 Mudguards 115
15.5.10 Bicycle Locks 115
 
15.6.1 Cycling Helmets 116
15.6.2 Proper Cycling Clothing 116
15.6.3 Cycling Glasses 117
15.6.4 Shoes and Pedals 117
16 General Notes on Care and Inspection 119
 
 
17 Service and Maintenance Schedule 122
18 Recommended Tightening Torques 124
19 Warranty and Guarantee 126
 
 
 
20 Service Schedule (to be stamped) 130

The technology of today’s bicycles has become very complex. As there
is a vast range of bicycle components, this manual focuses on the most
important parts including general features. Therefore, be sure to observe
the additional adjustment and/or maintenance instructions of the respective
component manufacturers that you have received from your bicycle dealer
together with this manual.
If you intend to do any maintenance or repair work by yourself, you should
keep in mind that today’s bicycle technology requires a considerable amount
of know-how as well as special tools , such as e.g. a torque wrench .
Have your bicycle serviced by your bicycle dealer to be on the safe side.
The following information refers to your bicycle by using the specific techni-
cal terms. Therefore, make yourself familiar with your bicycle. Please unfold
the front cover of this manual. You will find the diagrams of three bicycles
showing the components found on your bicycle. Leave the page unfolded
as you read so that you can easily locate the components as they are re-
ferred to in the text.
The table of contents will quickly lead you to the part you are interested in.
This symbol signifies information about how to handle the prod-
uct or refers to a passage in the operating instructions that de-
serves your special attention.
This symbol indicates an imminent risk of damage to your bicy-
cle or the environment unless you comply with the instructions
given or take preventive measures.
This symbol indicates an imminent risk to your life or health (e.g.
as a result of a crash or accident) unless you comply with the
instructions given or take preventive measures.
Please note that the aforementioned consequences will not be repeated
each time the symbols appear in the manual.
This manual does not help you to assemble a bicycle from individual parts,
to repair it or to make a partly assembled bicycle ready-for-use!
Technical details in the text and illustrations of this manual are subject to
change.
This manual complies with the requirements of the European standards EN
14764 / EN 14765 / EN 14766 und EN 14781.
Be sure to also observe the included instructions of the component manu-
facturers. This manual is subject to European law. If delivered to countries
outside Europe, supplementary information has to be provided by the bicy-
cle manufacturer.
a
b
11 Dirt-, Freeride-, Downhill-Bikes – Special Features 86
 
12 Lighting 88
 
 
 
13 Kids’ Bicycles 90
 
 
14 Adjusting the Bicycle to the Rider 93
 
14.1.1 What to Bear in Mind with Integrated Seat Posts 95
 
14.2.1 Adjustable Stems 96
14.2.2 Conventional Stems 97
14.2.3 Stems for Threadless Systems, the Aheadset
®
-System 98
14.2.4 Adjusting Adjustable Handlebar Systems (A.H.S.) 99
 
14.3.1 Adjusting Saddle Position and Tilt 100
 
14.4.1 Adjusting the Brake Lever Reach of Road Racing Bicycles 101
14.4.2 Adjusting the Tilt of Handlebars and Brake Levers on
Road Racing Bicycles 102
14.4.3 Adjusting the Brake Lever Reach of Trekking, City, BMX,
Kids’ and Mountain Bikes 103
14.4.4 Adjusting the Tilt of Handlebars, Bar Ends and Brake
Levers of Trekking, City, BMX, Kids’ and Mountain Bikes 104
15 All About Bicycles 106
 
15.1.1 Transporting Baggage with Full-Suspension Frames 107
 
15.2.1 Child Carriers 107
15.2.2 Child Trailers 108
15.2.3 Kids’ Tandem Bicycles / Trailer Systems 109
 
 
 
15.5.1 Additional Fittings 112
15.5.2 Trailers 113
15.5.3 Bar Ends 113
15.5.4 Cycle Computers 113
15.5.5 Baskets 113
15.5.6 Puncture Kit 114
15.5.7 Kickstand 114
15.5.8 Mirrors 114
15.5.9 Mudguards 115
15.5.10 Bicycle Locks 115
 
15.6.1 Cycling Helmets 116
15.6.2 Proper Cycling Clothing 116
15.6.3 Cycling Glasses 117
15.6.4 Shoes and Pedals 117
16 General Notes on Care and Inspection 119
 
 
17 Service and Maintenance Schedule 122
18 Recommended Tightening Torques 124
19 Warranty and Guarantee 126
 
 
 
20 Service Schedule (to be stamped) 130
6. If your bicycle is equipped with clipless or step-in pedals , do not set
off until you have practised engaging and disengaging the shoes from
the pedals in stationary .
For more information see chapter   . Be
sure to also read the operating instructions for the pedals delivered by
your bicycle dealer.
A lack of practice when using clipless pedals or too much spring
tension in the mechanism can lead to a very firm connection,
from which you cannot quickly step out! Risk of an accident!
7. If you have bought a suspension bicycle, you should ask your bicycle
dealer to adjust the suspension mechanism to your needs before deliv-
ery. Improperly adjusted suspension components are liable to malfunc-
tion or damage. In any case they will impair the performance of your
bicycle as well as your safety whilst riding.
For more information see chapters , 
and . Further notes regarding full-suspension
bicycles and forks may be enclosed with this manual.
a
b

1. Be sure to use your bicycle only for its intended purpose, as it may oth-
erwise not stand up to the stress and fail! 
For more information on the intended use read chapter .
2. The maximum overall weight (including rider, baggage and bike) your
bicycle is designed for, is specified in chapter .
3. Are you familiar with the brakes ? Check whether the lever of the front
brake is in the position you are used to (right or left). If it is not, you will
need to learn to get used to it, as inadvertent use of the front brake can
throw you off your bicycle . Or ask your bicycle dealer to switch the
brake levers. Due to the specific intended use, some dirt bikes are fitted
with only one brake.
Your new bicycle is equipped with modern brakes which may be far
more powerful than those you were used to so far! Be sure to first prac-
tise using the brakes on a level, non-slip surface off public roads!
For more information see chapter .
Please be aware that the distance you need to stop your bicycle
increases, when you are riding with your hands on an aerody-
namic handlebar, on a multiposition handlebar or on bar ends
. The brake levers are not within easy reach.
4. Are you familiar with the type and functioning of the gears? If not, make
yourself familiar with the gears in a place free of traffic.
For more information see chapter .
5. Are both saddle and handlebars properly adjusted? Check whether your
toes reach to the floor when you are sitting on the saddle . Your bi-
cycle dealer will be pleased to help you if you are not happy with your
seating position.
For more information see chapter 
.
Make particularly sure there is enough space between your
crotch and the top tube so that you do not hurt yourself, if you
have to get off your bicycle quickly.
a
b
c
d
6. If your bicycle is equipped with clipless or step-in pedals , do not set
off until you have practised engaging and disengaging the shoes from
the pedals in stationary .
For more information see chapter   . Be
sure to also read the operating instructions for the pedals delivered by
your bicycle dealer.
A lack of practice when using clipless pedals or too much spring
tension in the mechanism can lead to a very firm connection,
from which you cannot quickly step out! Risk of an accident!
7. If you have bought a suspension bicycle, you should ask your bicycle
dealer to adjust the suspension mechanism to your needs before deliv-
ery. Improperly adjusted suspension components are liable to malfunc-
tion or damage. In any case they will impair the performance of your
bicycle as well as your safety whilst riding.
For more information see chapters , 
and . Further notes regarding full-suspension
bicycles and forks may be enclosed with this manual.
a
b

1. Be sure to use your bicycle only for its intended purpose, as it may oth-
erwise not stand up to the stress and fail! 
For more information on the intended use read chapter .
2. The maximum overall weight (including rider, baggage and bike) your
bicycle is designed for, is specified in chapter .
3. Are you familiar with the brakes ? Check whether the lever of the front
brake is in the position you are used to (right or left). If it is not, you will
need to learn to get used to it, as inadvertent use of the front brake can
throw you off your bicycle . Or ask your bicycle dealer to switch the
brake levers. Due to the specific intended use, some dirt bikes are fitted
with only one brake.
Your new bicycle is equipped with modern brakes which may be far
more powerful than those you were used to so far! Be sure to first prac-
tise using the brakes on a level, non-slip surface off public roads!
For more information see chapter .
Please be aware that the distance you need to stop your bicycle
increases, when you are riding with your hands on an aerody-
namic handlebar, on a multiposition handlebar or on bar ends
. The brake levers are not within easy reach.
4. Are you familiar with the type and functioning of the gears? If not, make
yourself familiar with the gears in a place free of traffic.
For more information see chapter .
5. Are both saddle and handlebars properly adjusted? Check whether your
toes reach to the floor when you are sitting on the saddle . Your bi-
cycle dealer will be pleased to help you if you are not happy with your
seating position.
For more information see chapter 
.
Make particularly sure there is enough space between your
crotch and the top tube so that you do not hurt yourself, if you
have to get off your bicycle quickly.
a
b
c
d


7. If your bicycle has suspension, check the frame: Press down on your
bicycle and see whether the spring elements retract and extend as usual
.
For more information see chapters   and 
. Further notes regarding full-suspension bicycles and forks may
be enclosed with this manual.
8. If your bicycle has a kickstand, make sure it is fully raised before you set
off. 
Do not use your bicycle, if it fails on one of these points! Riding
a defective bicycle can result in serious accidents! If you are in
doubt or if you have any questions, please contact your bicycle
dealer!
During use your bicycle is undergoing stress resulting from
the surface of the road and through the rider’s action. Due to
these dynamic loads, the different parts of your bicycle react
with wear and fatigue. Please check your bicycle regularly for
wear marks, scratches , bent parts, colour changes and
any indication of cracking. Parts which have reached the end
of their lifespan may break without previous warning. Let your
dealer maintain and service your bicycle regularly and in cases
of doubt it is always best to replace parts.
Do not forget to take a high quality D- or chain lock with you
on your ride. The only way to effectively protect your bicycle
against theft is to lock it to an immovable object.
a
b
c
d
 
Your bicycle has undergone numerous tests during production and a final
check has been carried out by your bicycle dealer. Nevertheless, be sure to
check the following points to exclude any malfunctioning that may be due to
the transport of your bicycle or to work a third person may have performed
on your bicycle before delivery:
1. Are the quick-release levers of the front and rear wheel properly closed
and the bolts of the seat post and other components correctly tightened
? For more information see chapter    

Improperly closed quick-releases can cause bicycle compo-
nents to come loose. Risk of an accident!
2. Are the tyres in good condition and do they have sufficient pressure?
Make a “thumb test“ . For more information see chapter 
.
3. Spin the wheels to check whether the rims are true. Watch the gap be-
tween rim and brake pad or, in the case of disc brakes, between frame
and rim or tyre. Untrue rims can be an indication of tyres with ruptured
sides or broken axles or spokes. For more information see chapter
.
4. Test the brakes while stationary by firmly pulling the brake levers towards
the handlebars .
The brake pads of rim brakes must hit the rim with their entire surface
without touching the tyre. You should not be able to pull the lever all
the way to the handlebars! The same applies to the brake levers of disc
brakes. You should not be able to pull them all the way to the handle-
bars! Make sure there is no brake fluid leakage. Also check the thickness
of the brake pads. For more information see chapter .
5. Let your bicycle bounce on the ground from a small height. If there is
any rattling, check where it comes from. Check the bearings and bolts, if
necessary.
6. If you want to ride on public roads, make sure your bicycle is equipped
according to the regulations of your country . Riding without lights and
reflectors in dark or dim conditions is very dangerous, because other
road users will see you too late or not at all. A set of lights that corre-
sponds to the regulations is a must on public roads. Turn on the lights as
soon as dusk sets in. For more information see chapter 
.
a
b
c
d


7. If your bicycle has suspension, check the frame: Press down on your
bicycle and see whether the spring elements retract and extend as usual
.
For more information see chapters   and 
. Further notes regarding full-suspension bicycles and forks may
be enclosed with this manual.
8. If your bicycle has a kickstand, make sure it is fully raised before you set
off. 
Do not use your bicycle, if it fails on one of these points! Riding
a defective bicycle can result in serious accidents! If you are in
doubt or if you have any questions, please contact your bicycle
dealer!
During use your bicycle is undergoing stress resulting from
the surface of the road and through the rider’s action. Due to
these dynamic loads, the different parts of your bicycle react
with wear and fatigue. Please check your bicycle regularly for
wear marks, scratches , bent parts, colour changes and
any indication of cracking. Parts which have reached the end
of their lifespan may break without previous warning. Let your
dealer maintain and service your bicycle regularly and in cases
of doubt it is always best to replace parts.
Do not forget to take a high quality D- or chain lock with you
on your ride. The only way to effectively protect your bicycle
against theft is to lock it to an immovable object.
a
b
c
d
 
Your bicycle has undergone numerous tests during production and a final
check has been carried out by your bicycle dealer. Nevertheless, be sure to
check the following points to exclude any malfunctioning that may be due to
the transport of your bicycle or to work a third person may have performed
on your bicycle before delivery:
1. Are the quick-release levers of the front and rear wheel properly closed
and the bolts of the seat post and other components correctly tightened
? For more information see chapter    

Improperly closed quick-releases can cause bicycle compo-
nents to come loose. Risk of an accident!
2. Are the tyres in good condition and do they have sufficient pressure?
Make a “thumb test“ . For more information see chapter 
.
3. Spin the wheels to check whether the rims are true. Watch the gap be-
tween rim and brake pad or, in the case of disc brakes, between frame
and rim or tyre. Untrue rims can be an indication of tyres with ruptured
sides or broken axles or spokes. For more information see chapter
.
4. Test the brakes while stationary by firmly pulling the brake levers towards
the handlebars .
The brake pads of rim brakes must hit the rim with their entire surface
without touching the tyre. You should not be able to pull the lever all
the way to the handlebars! The same applies to the brake levers of disc
brakes. You should not be able to pull them all the way to the handle-
bars! Make sure there is no brake fluid leakage. Also check the thickness
of the brake pads. For more information see chapter .
5. Let your bicycle bounce on the ground from a small height. If there is
any rattling, check where it comes from. Check the bearings and bolts, if
necessary.
6. If you want to ride on public roads, make sure your bicycle is equipped
according to the regulations of your country . Riding without lights and
reflectors in dark or dim conditions is very dangerous, because other
road users will see you too late or not at all. A set of lights that corre-
sponds to the regulations is a must on public roads. Turn on the lights as
soon as dusk sets in. For more information see chapter 
.
a
b
c
d


 


Your bicycle is fitted with quick-releases to ensure fast adjustments, assem-
bly and disassembly. Be sure to check whether all quick-releases are tight
before you set off on your bicycle. Quick-releases should be handled with
great care, as they directly affect your safety.
Practise the use of quick-releases to avoid any accidents.
Quick-release mechanisms essentially consist of two operative elements:
1. The hand lever on one side of the hub which creates a clamping force via
a cam when you close it .
2. The tightening nut on the other side of the hub with which the initial ten-
sion on the threaded rod is set.
Make sure the levers of both quick-releases at the front and
rear wheel are always on the side opposite to the chain. This
will help you to avoid mounting the front wheel the wrong way
round. By contrast, with disc brakes the front quick-release is
usually mounted with its lever to the right.
Never ride a bicycle without having first checked whether the
wheels are securely fastened! A wheel that comes loose whilst
riding will throw you off your bicycle!
If your bicycle is equipped with quick-releases, be sure to lock
the frame to an immovable object together with the wheels
when you leave it outside.

Open the quick-release. The marking “Open“ on the lever should become
visible now .
Do not touch the rotor directly after stopping you may burn
your fingers! Always let the rotor cool down before opening the
quick-releases!
Move the lever back, as if to close it. Now you should be able to read ”Close“
on the outside of the lever. When you start closing the lever you should feel
virtually no resistance with your hand until the lever is at right angle to the
frame/fork.
a
b
c
d
 
1. Check whether the wheels are still firmly fixed in the drop-outs and
whether the rims are still centred with respect to the frame or fork. Spin
the wheels. If the width of the gap changes markedly and you cannot
true the rim where you are, you will need to open the rim brakes a little
so that the rim can run between the brake pads without touching them.
Caution: This will reduce the braking performance. For more information
see chapters  and .
2. Check that handlebars and stem are neither bent nor broken and that
they are level and upright. Make sure the stem is firmly fixed on the fork
by taking the front wheel between your knees and by trying to twist the
handlebars relative to the front wheel . Briefly lean on the brake levers to
make sure the handlebars are firmly fixed in the stem. For more information
see chapters and .
3. Check whether the chain still runs on the chainrings and sprockets .
If your bicycle fell over on the chain side, verify the proper functioning of
the gears. Ask somebody to lift the bicycle by the saddle and gently shift
through all the gears. Pay particular attention when shifting to the small
gears, making sure the rear derailleur does not get too close to the spokes
as the chain climbs onto the larger sprockets . If the rear derailleur or
the drop-outs are bent, this can cause the rear derailleur to collide with the
spokes and result in an ! This in turn can destroy the rear derail-
leur, the rear wheel or the frame.
Check the front derailleur, as a damaged gear changer can throw off the
chain, thus interrupting the power train of the bicycle (see chapter 
).
4. Make sure the saddle is not twisted using the top tube or the bottom
bracket shell as a reference .
5. Lift your bicycle up a few centimetres and let it bounce onto the ground. If
this causes any sort of noise, search for loosened bolts or components.
6. Finally, take a good look at the whole bicycle to detect any deformations,
discolourations or cracks.
Only if your bicycle passed these checks without any problems should you
ride back very carefully, taking the shortest possible route. Do not brake
hard or accelerate and do not ride your bicycle out of the saddle. If you are
in doubt about the performance of your bicycle, have yourself picked up by
car, instead of taking any risk. Back home you need to check your bicycle
thoroughly. If you are in doubt or if you have any questions, please contact
your bicycle dealer!
Bent parts made of aluminium must not be repaired, i.e.
straightened, as the risk of breakage would still remain. This
applies in particular to forks, handlebars, stems, cranksets and
pedals. Be sure to replace them as a precaution.
For more information regarding carbon parts see chapter 
.
a
b
c
d


 


Your bicycle is fitted with quick-releases to ensure fast adjustments, assem-
bly and disassembly. Be sure to check whether all quick-releases are tight
before you set off on your bicycle. Quick-releases should be handled with
great care, as they directly affect your safety.
Practise the use of quick-releases to avoid any accidents.
Quick-release mechanisms essentially consist of two operative elements:
1. The hand lever on one side of the hub which creates a clamping force via
a cam when you close it .
2. The tightening nut on the other side of the hub with which the initial ten-
sion on the threaded rod is set.
Make sure the levers of both quick-releases at the front and
rear wheel are always on the side opposite to the chain. This
will help you to avoid mounting the front wheel the wrong way
round. By contrast, with disc brakes the front quick-release is
usually mounted with its lever to the right.
Never ride a bicycle without having first checked whether the
wheels are securely fastened! A wheel that comes loose whilst
riding will throw you off your bicycle!
If your bicycle is equipped with quick-releases, be sure to lock
the frame to an immovable object together with the wheels
when you leave it outside.

Open the quick-release. The marking “Open“ on the lever should become
visible now .
Do not touch the rotor directly after stopping you may burn
your fingers! Always let the rotor cool down before opening the
quick-releases!
Move the lever back, as if to close it. Now you should be able to read ”Close“
on the outside of the lever. When you start closing the lever you should feel
virtually no resistance with your hand until the lever is at right angle to the
frame/fork.
a
b
c
d
 
1. Check whether the wheels are still firmly fixed in the drop-outs and
whether the rims are still centred with respect to the frame or fork. Spin
the wheels. If the width of the gap changes markedly and you cannot
true the rim where you are, you will need to open the rim brakes a little
so that the rim can run between the brake pads without touching them.
Caution: This will reduce the braking performance. For more information
see chapters  and .
2. Check that handlebars and stem are neither bent nor broken and that
they are level and upright. Make sure the stem is firmly fixed on the fork
by taking the front wheel between your knees and by trying to twist the
handlebars relative to the front wheel . Briefly lean on the brake levers to
make sure the handlebars are firmly fixed in the stem. For more information
see chapters and .
3. Check whether the chain still runs on the chainrings and sprockets .
If your bicycle fell over on the chain side, verify the proper functioning of
the gears. Ask somebody to lift the bicycle by the saddle and gently shift
through all the gears. Pay particular attention when shifting to the small
gears, making sure the rear derailleur does not get too close to the spokes
as the chain climbs onto the larger sprockets . If the rear derailleur or
the drop-outs are bent, this can cause the rear derailleur to collide with the
spokes and result in an ! This in turn can destroy the rear derail-
leur, the rear wheel or the frame.
Check the front derailleur, as a damaged gear changer can throw off the
chain, thus interrupting the power train of the bicycle (see chapter 
).
4. Make sure the saddle is not twisted using the top tube or the bottom
bracket shell as a reference .
5. Lift your bicycle up a few centimetres and let it bounce onto the ground. If
this causes any sort of noise, search for loosened bolts or components.
6. Finally, take a good look at the whole bicycle to detect any deformations,
discolourations or cracks.
Only if your bicycle passed these checks without any problems should you
ride back very carefully, taking the shortest possible route. Do not brake
hard or accelerate and do not ride your bicycle out of the saddle. If you are
in doubt about the performance of your bicycle, have yourself picked up by
car, instead of taking any risk. Back home you need to check your bicycle
thoroughly. If you are in doubt or if you have any questions, please contact
your bicycle dealer!
Bent parts made of aluminium must not be repaired, i.e.
straightened, as the risk of breakage would still remain. This
applies in particular to forks, handlebars, stems, cranksets and
pedals. Be sure to replace them as a precaution.
For more information regarding carbon parts see chapter 
.
a
b
c
d
14
15
1.5.2 Thru Axles
Thru axles are mounted when the bicycle has to withstand high stress oc-
curring e.g. during freeriding, downhill riding etc. or jumps. They provide
suspension forks with a suitable stiffness.
Before mounting or replacing a fork/wheel combination, be sure
to read the operating instructions of the respective suspension
fork or wheel manufacturer first.
Notes on How to Mount Thru Axle Wheels
There is a wide range of thru axle systems available now. Some systems
are tightened with quick-releases. Other systems may require special tools
(a+b) for assembly or disassembly.
Be sure to read the respective manual before doing any assem-
bly work.
If you are in doubt or if you have any questions, please contact your bicycle
dealer!
Improperly mounted wheels may throw you off your bicycle or
result in serious accidents!
Check the mounting after one to two hours of use and then every 20 hours.
If your bicycle is equipped with a Maxle thru axle system (c) with quick-
release, put the wheel into the fork and mount the rotor in the brake calliper.
Bring the wheel into the correct position between the drop-outs and slide
the axle with the open Maxle quick-release lever from the right side through
the drop-out and the hub. As soon as the axle thread engages with the
thread of the left drop-out, tighten it by turning the whole Maxle clockwise.
Close the Maxle thru axle quick-release lever like a usual quick-release lever
(see above section “How to Fasten Components Securely“).
The E-Thru system (d) has been developed jointly by Shimano and Fox and
has a 15 mm thru axle that optimises weight. It is mounted like the Maxle
system and also operated with a quick-release lever. The special feature
of the E-Thru compared to usual quick-release systems is the firm, bolted
connection of the tightening nut to the fork leg on the opposite side of the
quick-release lever.
For the removal of the front wheel you may need tools ((a) p. 16) depending
on the fork manufacturer and thru axle system. To remove the wheel, loosen
the axle support at the fork and remove the axle completely from the hub.
To remount the front wheel proceed in the reverse order. Make sure all
bolts/quick-release systems are tightened properly.
a
b
c
d
Over the second half of its travel the resistance you feel should increase sig-
nificantly. Towards the end of its travel you should need very much strength
to close the lever. Use the ball of your thumb to push it in all the way while
your fingers pull on an immovable part, such as the fork or the rear stay ((c)
p. 13) , but not on a rotor or spoke.
In its end position, the lever should be parallel to the bicycle, i.e. it should not
stick out to the side ((d) p. 13). The lever should lie close to the frame or the
fork so that it cannot be opened accidentally.
To check whether the lever is securely locked apply pressure to the end of
the hand lever and try to turn it while it is closed. If you can turn the lever
around, open it and increase the initial tension. Screw the tightening nut on
the opposite side clockwise by half a turn. Close the lever and check it again
for tightness.
Finally, lift the bicycle a few centimetres so that the wheel no longer touches
the ground and hit the tyre from above (a). If it is properly fastened, the
wheel will remain firmly fixed in the drop-outs of the frame without any rat-
tling noise.
If your seat post is equipped with a quick-release mechanism, check wheth-
er the saddle is firmly fixed by trying to twist it relative to the frame (b).
With insufficiently closed quick-releases and thru axles the
wheels can come loose, thus creating a serious risk of accident!
If your bicycle is equipped with quick-releases (c), be sure to
lock the frame to an immovable object together with the wheels
when you leave it outside.
As an anti-theft measure you can replace the quick-releases by
special locks (d). They can only be opened and closed with a
special, coded key or an Allen key. If you are in doubt or if you
have any questions, please contact your bicycle dealer!
With the DT Swiss RWS system the clamping force is not created via a
cam, but by tightening a bolted connection with a lever.
Tighten the system by turning the lever clockwise while holding the clam-
ping nut tight.
Depending on frame or fork the lever may touch either frame or fork during
tightening. If it does, pull out the lever, turn it back, let it engage again before
retightening.
In its end position, the lever should be parallel to the bicycle, i.e. it should not
stick out. The lever should lie close to the frame or the fork so that it cannot
be opened accidentally.
a
b
c
d
14
15
1.5.2 Thru Axles
Thru axles are mounted when the bicycle has to withstand high stress oc-
curring e.g. during freeriding, downhill riding etc. or jumps. They provide
suspension forks with a suitable stiffness.
Before mounting or replacing a fork/wheel combination, be sure
to read the operating instructions of the respective suspension
fork or wheel manufacturer first.
Notes on How to Mount Thru Axle Wheels
There is a wide range of thru axle systems available now. Some systems
are tightened with quick-releases. Other systems may require special tools
(a+b) for assembly or disassembly.
Be sure to read the respective manual before doing any assem-
bly work.
If you are in doubt or if you have any questions, please contact your bicycle
dealer!
Improperly mounted wheels may throw you off your bicycle or
result in serious accidents!
Check the mounting after one to two hours of use and then every 20 hours.
If your bicycle is equipped with a Maxle thru axle system (c) with quick-
release, put the wheel into the fork and mount the rotor in the brake calliper.
Bring the wheel into the correct position between the drop-outs and slide
the axle with the open Maxle quick-release lever from the right side through
the drop-out and the hub. As soon as the axle thread engages with the
thread of the left drop-out, tighten it by turning the whole Maxle clockwise.
Close the Maxle thru axle quick-release lever like a usual quick-release lever
(see above section “How to Fasten Components Securely“).
The E-Thru system (d) has been developed jointly by Shimano and Fox and
has a 15 mm thru axle that optimises weight. It is mounted like the Maxle
system and also operated with a quick-release lever. The special feature
of the E-Thru compared to usual quick-release systems is the firm, bolted
connection of the tightening nut to the fork leg on the opposite side of the
quick-release lever.
For the removal of the front wheel you may need tools ((a) p. 16) depending
on the fork manufacturer and thru axle system. To remove the wheel, loosen
the axle support at the fork and remove the axle completely from the hub.
To remount the front wheel proceed in the reverse order. Make sure all
bolts/quick-release systems are tightened properly.
a
b
c
d
Over the second half of its travel the resistance you feel should increase sig-
nificantly. Towards the end of its travel you should need very much strength
to close the lever. Use the ball of your thumb to push it in all the way while
your fingers pull on an immovable part, such as the fork or the rear stay ((c)
p. 13) , but not on a rotor or spoke.
In its end position, the lever should be parallel to the bicycle, i.e. it should not
stick out to the side ((d) p. 13). The lever should lie close to the frame or the
fork so that it cannot be opened accidentally.
To check whether the lever is securely locked apply pressure to the end of
the hand lever and try to turn it while it is closed. If you can turn the lever
around, open it and increase the initial tension. Screw the tightening nut on
the opposite side clockwise by half a turn. Close the lever and check it again
for tightness.
Finally, lift the bicycle a few centimetres so that the wheel no longer touches
the ground and hit the tyre from above (a). If it is properly fastened, the
wheel will remain firmly fixed in the drop-outs of the frame without any rat-
tling noise.
If your seat post is equipped with a quick-release mechanism, check wheth-
er the saddle is firmly fixed by trying to twist it relative to the frame (b).
With insufficiently closed quick-releases and thru axles the
wheels can come loose, thus creating a serious risk of accident!
If your bicycle is equipped with quick-releases (c), be sure to
lock the frame to an immovable object together with the wheels
when you leave it outside.
As an anti-theft measure you can replace the quick-releases by
special locks (d). They can only be opened and closed with a
special, coded key or an Allen key. If you are in doubt or if you
have any questions, please contact your bicycle dealer!
With the DT Swiss RWS system the clamping force is not created via a
cam, but by tightening a bolted connection with a lever.
Tighten the system by turning the lever clockwise while holding the clam-
ping nut tight.
Depending on frame or fork the lever may touch either frame or fork during
tightening. If it does, pull out the lever, turn it back, let it engage again before
retightening.
In its end position, the lever should be parallel to the bicycle, i.e. it should not
stick out. The lever should lie close to the frame or the fork so that it cannot
be opened accidentally.
a
b
c
d
16
17
2 Intended Use
2.1 General Overview
Please observe the following information on our HAIBIKE, Si-
nus, Staiger and Winora bicycles.
Please follow the tips provided in section “Safe Cycling on
Public Roads” in chapter “Useful Tips for Cycling in Town and
Country”.
2.1.1 City, Touring, Sports, Kids’ and Youth Bicycles (a+b)
Provided the bicycle is equipped according to the road traffic (licencing)
regulations of your country!
Due to their design and equipment, e.g. with active and passive lighting
devices, this type of bicycle is intended to be used on public roads and
hard-surface tracks.
City, touring and sport bicycles are designed for a permissible overall weight
(accumulated weight of rider, baggage, trailer load and bicycle) of 120 kg,
kids’ and youth bicycles for a weight of 80 kg. The maximum weight limit for
pannier racks is marked on the component.
The safety-relevant equipment and components required for these bicycles
are included in the delivery. Their reliable functioning has to be checked by
the user or the bicycle dealer at regular intervals and repaired, if necessary.
This type of bicycle is not designed for any other use than the intended one.
Non-observance of the intended use or non-compliance with the safety-
relevant information in this manual may result in failure of the bicycle. Manu-
facturers and dealers cannot be held liable for damage resulting thereof.
This type of bicycle is not suitable for riding off-road or in any competition
whatsoever.
The correct saddle height of kids’ bicycles (c) is between 435 mm and 635
mm. They are usually designed for a cyclist’s weight of 30 kg.
Although the saddles of BMX bicycles are often adjusted to a
rather low height, they are not kids’ bicycles.
Please follow the tips provided in section “Safe Cycling on
Public Roads” in chapter “Useful Tips for Cycling in Town and
Country” as well as the information provided in chapter “Kids’
Bicycles”.
The distinguishing difference between toy bicycles (d) and kids’ bicycles is
their maximum saddle height of 435 mm. In Germany, for example, cycling
with toy bicycles on public roads is therefore not allowed. Please read up
on the applicable regulations in your country concerning the usage of toy
bicycles.
a
b
c
d
To mount the axle use only the tools recommended by the manu-
facturer. Make it a rule to use a torque wrench (b). Tighten care-
fully by approaching the prescribed maximum torque in small
steps (0.5 Nm increments) whilst constantly checking the proper
fit of the component. Never exceed the maximum tightening
torque indicated by the manufacturer! Over tighte ning the axle
can damage the axle or the fork leg.
Check the bolts after one to two hours of use and then every
20 hours.
Besides the front thru axle systems, there are also rear thru axle systems,
such as the X-12 rear axle system from Syntace. This system combines
extreme stiffness with light weight.
The X-12 system comes in two different versions:
· The key version (with Allen bolt)
· The QR version (with RWS quick-release lever)
To remove the rear wheel release the axle (c) (with Allen key or quick-re-
lease, depending on the system) and pull it out, before removing the rear
wheel in the usual way.
Make sure not to insert the axle into the hub before mounting the rear wheel.
Perform the rear wheel mounting in the usual manner. Due to the axle
guides (d) the rear wheel is automatically in its correct position and requires
no further adjustment. Once you have mounted the rear wheel, insert and
tighten the axle.
The manufacturers of thru axle systems deliver their products
with detailed instructions. Read them carefully before removing
the wheel or doing any maintenance work.
a
b
c
d
16
17
2 Intended Use
2.1 General Overview
Please observe the following information on our HAIBIKE, Si-
nus, Staiger and Winora bicycles.
Please follow the tips provided in section “Safe Cycling on
Public Roads” in chapter “Useful Tips for Cycling in Town and
Country”.
2.1.1 City, Touring, Sports, Kids’ and Youth Bicycles (a+b)
Provided the bicycle is equipped according to the road traffic (licencing)
regulations of your country!
Due to their design and equipment, e.g. with active and passive lighting
devices, this type of bicycle is intended to be used on public roads and
hard-surface tracks.
City, touring and sport bicycles are designed for a permissible overall weight
(accumulated weight of rider, baggage, trailer load and bicycle) of 120 kg,
kids’ and youth bicycles for a weight of 80 kg. The maximum weight limit for
pannier racks is marked on the component.
The safety-relevant equipment and components required for these bicycles
are included in the delivery. Their reliable functioning has to be checked by
the user or the bicycle dealer at regular intervals and repaired, if necessary.
This type of bicycle is not designed for any other use than the intended one.
Non-observance of the intended use or non-compliance with the safety-
relevant information in this manual may result in failure of the bicycle. Manu-
facturers and dealers cannot be held liable for damage resulting thereof.
This type of bicycle is not suitable for riding off-road or in any competition
whatsoever.
The correct saddle height of kids’ bicycles (c) is between 435 mm and 635
mm. They are usually designed for a cyclist’s weight of 30 kg.
Although the saddles of BMX bicycles are often adjusted to a
rather low height, they are not kids’ bicycles.
Please follow the tips provided in section “Safe Cycling on
Public Roads” in chapter “Useful Tips for Cycling in Town and
Country” as well as the information provided in chapter “Kids’
Bicycles”.
The distinguishing difference between toy bicycles (d) and kids’ bicycles is
their maximum saddle height of 435 mm. In Germany, for example, cycling
with toy bicycles on public roads is therefore not allowed. Please read up
on the applicable regulations in your country concerning the usage of toy
bicycles.
a
b
c
d
To mount the axle use only the tools recommended by the manu-
facturer. Make it a rule to use a torque wrench (b). Tighten care-
fully by approaching the prescribed maximum torque in small
steps (0.5 Nm increments) whilst constantly checking the proper
fit of the component. Never exceed the maximum tightening
torque indicated by the manufacturer! Over tighte ning the axle
can damage the axle or the fork leg.
Check the bolts after one to two hours of use and then every
20 hours.
Besides the front thru axle systems, there are also rear thru axle systems,
such as the X-12 rear axle system from Syntace. This system combines
extreme stiffness with light weight.
The X-12 system comes in two different versions:
· The key version (with Allen bolt)
· The QR version (with RWS quick-release lever)
To remove the rear wheel release the axle (c) (with Allen key or quick-re-
lease, depending on the system) and pull it out, before removing the rear
wheel in the usual way.
Make sure not to insert the axle into the hub before mounting the rear wheel.
Perform the rear wheel mounting in the usual manner. Due to the axle
guides (d) the rear wheel is automatically in its correct position and requires
no further adjustment. Once you have mounted the rear wheel, insert and
tighten the axle.
The manufacturers of thru axle systems deliver their products
with detailed instructions. Read them carefully before removing
the wheel or doing any maintenance work.
a
b
c
d
18
19
122
17 Service and Maintenance Schedule
Component What to do Before every ride Monthly Annually
Lighting Check
Tyres Check pressure
Tyres Check tread and side walls
Brakes (rim-) Check lever travel, wear of brake pads,
position of pads relative to rim
Brakes (rim-) Test brakes in stationary
Brakes, (rim-), brake pads Clean
Brake cables Visual inspection
Brakes (disc-) Replace liquid (Dot-liquids)
Suspension fork Check and retighten bolts, if necessary
Suspension fork Change oil or grease elastomers
Suspension seat post Service
Suspension seat post Check for play
Rims with rim brakes Check thickness, replace if necessary At the latest after second set of brake pads is worn down
Bottom bracket Check for play
Bottom bracket Regrease (shell)
Chain Check and grease, if necessary
Chain Check and replace, if necessary After 800 km (500 miles)
Crankset Check and retighten, if necessary
Painted / anodised surfaces Impregnate At least every 6 months
Wheels / spokes Check for trueness and tension
This type of bicycle is neither suitable for all-mountain and enduro use,
dowhnhill riding/freeride parks, jumps, drops etc., nor for competitive use,
such as downhill, dual slalom, freeride races etc.
2.1.4 Road Racing Bicycles (a+b)
Due to its design and components the road racing bicycle is intended to
be used for training purposes on roads with tarred, sufficiently paved and
smooth surfaces. For indoor training, road racing bicycles are only suitable
for freewheeling rollers without brakes or a frame clamping mechanism.
In Germany road racing bicycles that do not weigh more than 11 kg are
allowed on public roads, even if not fully equipped. Please read up on the
applicable regulations in your country concerning the usage of road racing
bicycles.
Road racing bicycles are designed for a permissible overall weight (accu-
mulated weight of rider, baggage in rucksack and bicycle) of 110 kg. Not
suitable for child carrier and trailer mounting!
The safety-relevant equipment and components required for training pur-
poses or competitions are included in the delivery. Their reliable functioning
has to be checked by the user or the bicycle dealer at regular intervals and
repaired, if necessary. This type of bicycle is not designed for any other
use than the intended one. Non-observance of the intended use or non-
compliance with the safety-relevant information in this manual may result
in failure of the bicycle. Manufacturers and dealers cannot be held liable for
damage resulting thereof.
This type of bicycle is not suitable for cycling on tracks and forest trails or
off-road.
The intended use of all types of bicycles also includes the ob-
servance of the tightening torques, maintenance (c) and service
intervals, as described on pages 122 to 125 of this manual.
All information in this manual is given in general terms for vari-
ous types of bicycle and does not cover each type down to the
last detail. For this reason, be sure to also observe the oper-
ating instructions of individual component manufacturers that
are provided together with your bicycle (d). In the event these
accompanying documents do not answer all your questions,
please contact your bicycle dealer who will be pleased to help
you.
a
b
c
d
Be sure to observe the regulations for riding on public roads in your country, if
you want to participate in road traffic with your child. For more information see
chapter “Legal Requirements for Riding on public Roads.
2.1.2 Trekking Bicycles / ATB (a+b)
Due to their design and equipment, e.g. with active and passive lighting
devices, this type of bicycle is intended to be used on public roads and
hard-surface tracks. Furthermore, it can be used for riding on easy terrain,
e.g. on trails and designated bicycle routes through forests.
Permissible overall load 140 kg. Maximum trailer load 40 kg. With a trailer
the permissible overall weight is reduced by the trailer load. Example: Trailer
load 30 kg, permissible overall weight of the bicycle 110 kg.
The maximum weight limit for pannier racks (if mounted) is marked on this
component.
The safety-relevant equipment and components required for these bicycles
are included in the delivery. Their reliable functioning has to be checked by
the user or the bicycle dealer at regular intervals and repaired, if necessary.
This type of bicycle is not designed for any other use than the intended one.
Non-observance of the intended use or non-compliance with the safety-
relevant information in this manual may result in failure of the bicycle. Manu-
facturers and dealers cannot be held liable for damage resulting thereof.
This type of bicycle is not suitable for any competitions whatsoever.
2.1.3 Mountain Bikes (MTB) / Cross Bicycles (c)
Due to their design and equipment this type of bicycle is not intended to be
used on public roads. If you intend to use this type of bicycle on public roads,
it must be fitted with the devices and equipment prescribed for this purpose
(see chapter “Legal Requirements for Riding on public Roads”).
Mountain bikes are designed to be used for off-road cycling and for riding
over natural terrain (e.g. terrain of a mountain bike marathon and cross-
country racing).
Mountain / cross bicycles are designed for a permissible overall weight (ac-
cumulated weight of rider, baggage in rucksack and bicycle) of 110 kg. Not
suitable for child carrier and trailer mounting!
The safety-relevant equipment and components required for cycling off-
road (d) are included in the delivery. Their reliable functioning has to be
checked by the user or the bicycle dealer at regular intervals and repaired,
if necessary. This type of bicycle is not designed for any other use than
the intended one. Non-observance of the intended use or non-compliance
with the safety-relevant information in this manual may result in failure of
the bicycle. Manufacturers and dealers cannot be held liable for damage
resulting thereof.
a
b
c
d
18
19
122
17 Service and Maintenance Schedule
Component What to do Before every ride Monthly Annually
Lighting Check
Tyres Check pressure
Tyres Check tread and side walls
Brakes (rim-) Check lever travel, wear of brake pads,
position of pads relative to rim
Brakes (rim-) Test brakes in stationary
Brakes, (rim-), brake pads Clean
Brake cables Visual inspection
Brakes (disc-) Replace liquid (Dot-liquids)
Suspension fork Check and retighten bolts, if necessary
Suspension fork Change oil or grease elastomers
Suspension seat post Service
Suspension seat post Check for play
Rims with rim brakes Check thickness, replace if necessary At the latest after second set of brake pads is worn down
Bottom bracket Check for play
Bottom bracket Regrease (shell)
Chain Check and grease, if necessary
Chain Check and replace, if necessary After 800 km (500 miles)
Crankset Check and retighten, if necessary
Painted / anodised surfaces Impregnate At least every 6 months
Wheels / spokes Check for trueness and tension
This type of bicycle is neither suitable for all-mountain and enduro use,
dowhnhill riding/freeride parks, jumps, drops etc., nor for competitive use,
such as downhill, dual slalom, freeride races etc.
2.1.4 Road Racing Bicycles (a+b)
Due to its design and components the road racing bicycle is intended to
be used for training purposes on roads with tarred, sufficiently paved and
smooth surfaces. For indoor training, road racing bicycles are only suitable
for freewheeling rollers without brakes or a frame clamping mechanism.
In Germany road racing bicycles that do not weigh more than 11 kg are
allowed on public roads, even if not fully equipped. Please read up on the
applicable regulations in your country concerning the usage of road racing
bicycles.
Road racing bicycles are designed for a permissible overall weight (accu-
mulated weight of rider, baggage in rucksack and bicycle) of 110 kg. Not
suitable for child carrier and trailer mounting!
The safety-relevant equipment and components required for training pur-
poses or competitions are included in the delivery. Their reliable functioning
has to be checked by the user or the bicycle dealer at regular intervals and
repaired, if necessary. This type of bicycle is not designed for any other
use than the intended one. Non-observance of the intended use or non-
compliance with the safety-relevant information in this manual may result
in failure of the bicycle. Manufacturers and dealers cannot be held liable for
damage resulting thereof.
This type of bicycle is not suitable for cycling on tracks and forest trails or
off-road.
The intended use of all types of bicycles also includes the ob-
servance of the tightening torques, maintenance (c) and service
intervals, as described on pages 122 to 125 of this manual.
All information in this manual is given in general terms for vari-
ous types of bicycle and does not cover each type down to the
last detail. For this reason, be sure to also observe the oper-
ating instructions of individual component manufacturers that
are provided together with your bicycle (d). In the event these
accompanying documents do not answer all your questions,
please contact your bicycle dealer who will be pleased to help
you.
a
b
c
d
Be sure to observe the regulations for riding on public roads in your country, if
you want to participate in road traffic with your child. For more information see
chapter “Legal Requirements for Riding on public Roads.
2.1.2 Trekking Bicycles / ATB (a+b)
Due to their design and equipment, e.g. with active and passive lighting
devices, this type of bicycle is intended to be used on public roads and
hard-surface tracks. Furthermore, it can be used for riding on easy terrain,
e.g. on trails and designated bicycle routes through forests.
Permissible overall load 140 kg. Maximum trailer load 40 kg. With a trailer
the permissible overall weight is reduced by the trailer load. Example: Trailer
load 30 kg, permissible overall weight of the bicycle 110 kg.
The maximum weight limit for pannier racks (if mounted) is marked on this
component.
The safety-relevant equipment and components required for these bicycles
are included in the delivery. Their reliable functioning has to be checked by
the user or the bicycle dealer at regular intervals and repaired, if necessary.
This type of bicycle is not designed for any other use than the intended one.
Non-observance of the intended use or non-compliance with the safety-
relevant information in this manual may result in failure of the bicycle. Manu-
facturers and dealers cannot be held liable for damage resulting thereof.
This type of bicycle is not suitable for any competitions whatsoever.
2.1.3 Mountain Bikes (MTB) / Cross Bicycles (c)
Due to their design and equipment this type of bicycle is not intended to be
used on public roads. If you intend to use this type of bicycle on public roads,
it must be fitted with the devices and equipment prescribed for this purpose
(see chapter “Legal Requirements for Riding on public Roads”).
Mountain bikes are designed to be used for off-road cycling and for riding
over natural terrain (e.g. terrain of a mountain bike marathon and cross-
country racing).
Mountain / cross bicycles are designed for a permissible overall weight (ac-
cumulated weight of rider, baggage in rucksack and bicycle) of 110 kg. Not
suitable for child carrier and trailer mounting!
The safety-relevant equipment and components required for cycling off-
road (d) are included in the delivery. Their reliable functioning has to be
checked by the user or the bicycle dealer at regular intervals and repaired,
if necessary. This type of bicycle is not designed for any other use than
the intended one. Non-observance of the intended use or non-compliance
with the safety-relevant information in this manual may result in failure of
the bicycle. Manufacturers and dealers cannot be held liable for damage
resulting thereof.
a
b
c
d


 
Permissible overall weight (accumulated weight of rider, baggage in ruck-
sack and bicycle): 80 kg. Not suitable for child carrier and trailer mounting!
 

Designed for off-road cycling, i.e. cross-country (XC) and marathon cycling.
Suitable for competitions of this kind, however not for downhill (DH), fre-
eride, dual slalom, downhill/freeride parks, jumps etc.
Permissible overall weight (accumulated weight of rider, baggage in ruck-
sack and bicycle): 120 kg. Not suitable for child carrier and trailer mounting!

Designed for road racing on tarred or paved roads with a smooth surface.
Suitable for competitions of this kind (cyclosportive, audax, marathon and
club races).
Permissible overall weight (accumulated weight of rider, baggage in rucksack
and bicycle): 120 kg. Not suitable for child carrier and trailer mounting!
a
b
c
d
Bicycles delivered with this manual are only designed to be
used by one person  and not to be ridden hands-free.
Overstress may result in breakage or failure of essential compo-
nents, such as e.g. frame, handlebars or forks. This can lead to
an accident with unforeseeable consequences including death!
Trailers  must be mounted to models with hydraulic brake
systems only! Only use appropriate trailers that were mounted
professionally by your bicycle dealer. Full-suspension models
are generally not approved for trailer mounting.
a
b
The Performance Line, Comp Line and Special Edition bicycles
are usually not compliant with the vehicle safety standards and
road traffic licensing regulations. Please read up on the applica-
ble regulations in your country.
 

Designed for leisure and recreational cycling on hard-surface tracks, not a
sports bicycle! Not suitable for any competitions whatsoever.
Permissible overall weight (accumulated weight of rider, baggage in ruck-
sack and bicycle): 100 kg. Not suitable for child carrier and trailer mounting!

Designed for leisure and recreational cycling on hard-surface tracks, not a
sports bicycle! Not suitable for any competitions whatsoever or show rides
in BMX parks, ramps or in skate parks.
Permissible overall weight (accumulated weight of rider, baggage in ruck-
sack and bicycle): 80 kg. Not suitable for child carrier and trailer mounting!

Designed for harder use on secured terrain, not a sports bicycle! Not suit-
able for any competitions whatsoever or show rides over ramps or in skate
parks.


 
Permissible overall weight (accumulated weight of rider, baggage in ruck-
sack and bicycle): 80 kg. Not suitable for child carrier and trailer mounting!
 

Designed for off-road cycling, i.e. cross-country (XC) and marathon cycling.
Suitable for competitions of this kind, however not for downhill (DH), fre-
eride, dual slalom, downhill/freeride parks, jumps etc.
Permissible overall weight (accumulated weight of rider, baggage in ruck-
sack and bicycle): 120 kg. Not suitable for child carrier and trailer mounting!

Designed for road racing on tarred or paved roads with a smooth surface.
Suitable for competitions of this kind (cyclosportive, audax, marathon and
club races).
Permissible overall weight (accumulated weight of rider, baggage in rucksack
and bicycle): 120 kg. Not suitable for child carrier and trailer mounting!
a
b
c
d
Bicycles delivered with this manual are only designed to be
used by one person  and not to be ridden hands-free.
Overstress may result in breakage or failure of essential compo-
nents, such as e.g. frame, handlebars or forks. This can lead to
an accident with unforeseeable consequences including death!
Trailers  must be mounted to models with hydraulic brake
systems only! Only use appropriate trailers that were mounted
professionally by your bicycle dealer. Full-suspension models
are generally not approved for trailer mounting.
a
b
The Performance Line, Comp Line and Special Edition bicycles
are usually not compliant with the vehicle safety standards and
road traffic licensing regulations. Please read up on the applica-
ble regulations in your country.
 

Designed for leisure and recreational cycling on hard-surface tracks, not a
sports bicycle! Not suitable for any competitions whatsoever.
Permissible overall weight (accumulated weight of rider, baggage in ruck-
sack and bicycle): 100 kg. Not suitable for child carrier and trailer mounting!

Designed for leisure and recreational cycling on hard-surface tracks, not a
sports bicycle! Not suitable for any competitions whatsoever or show rides
in BMX parks, ramps or in skate parks.
Permissible overall weight (accumulated weight of rider, baggage in ruck-
sack and bicycle): 80 kg. Not suitable for child carrier and trailer mounting!

Designed for harder use on secured terrain, not a sports bicycle! Not suit-
able for any competitions whatsoever or show rides over ramps or in skate
parks.
22
23
2.2.4 Life Line
Life Line bicycles (a+b) were developed by and for women and their specific
needs.
Mountain Bike
Designed for off-road cycling, i.e. cross-country (XC) and marathon cycling,
as well as for competitions of this kind. Not suitable for all-mountain, enduro,
downhill (DH) riding, freeride, dual slalom, downhill/freeride parks, jumps,
drops etc.
Permissible overall weight (accumulated weight of rider, baggage in ruck-
sack and bicycle): 120 kg. Not suitable for child carrier and trailer mounting!
a
b
2.2.3 Special Edition
The equipment to be mounted on frames and framesets should
comply with the respective series-production bicycles. This ap-
plies in particular to the quality and sizes of stems, seat posts
etc. as well as to tyre widths and permitted effective lengths
(travel) of forks and rear shocks. If in doubt, ask your bicycle
dealer or our after-sales service for advice.
XC Line (a)
Designed for off-road cycling, i.e. cross-country (XC) and marathon cycling
for training and competitive purposes. Not suitable for all-mountain, enduro,
downhill (DH) riding, freeride, dual slalom, downhill/freeride parks, jumps,
drops etc.
Permissible overall weight (accumulated weight of rider, baggage in rucksack
and bicycle): 120 kg. Not suitable for child carrier and trailer mounting!
Enduro Line (b)
Designed for off-road cycling, i.e. cross-country (XC) and marathon cycling
for training and competitive purposes as well as for touring. Not suitable for
downhill (DH) riding, freeride, dual slalom, downhill/freeride parks, jumps,
etc.
Permissible overall weight (accumulated weight of rider, baggage in rucksack
and bicycle): 120 kg. Not suitable for child carrier and trailer mounting!
Road Racing Bicycle (c)
Designed for road racing for training and competitive purposes (road races,
cyclosportive, audax, marathon and club races) on tarred or paved roads
with a smooth surface.
Permissible overall weight (accumulated weight of rider, baggage in rucksack
and bicycle): 120 kg. Not suitable for child carrier and trailer mounting!
Cyclocross (d)
Designed for off-road cycling for training and competitive purposes over
typical cyclocross terrain, e.g. on field tracks and forest trails. Not suitable
for mountain bike use, in particular for all-mountain, enduro, downhill (DH)
riding, freeride, dual slalom, downhill/freeride parks, jumps, drops etc.
Permissible overall weight (accumulated weight of rider, baggage in rucksack
and bicycle): 120 kg. Not suitable for child carrier and trailer mounting!
Downhill
Downhill bicycles are designed for high standard downhill races.
Permissible overall weight (accumulated weight of rider, baggage in rucksack
and bicycle): 120 kg. Not suitable for child carrier and trailer mounting!
Freeride
Designed for jumps and drops in most challenging terrains and in bicycle
parks.
Permissible overall weight (accumulated weight of rider, baggage in ruck-
sack and bicycle): 120 kg. Not suitable for child carrier and trailer mounting!
a
b
c
d
22
23
2.2.4 Life Line
Life Line bicycles (a+b) were developed by and for women and their specific
needs.
Mountain Bike
Designed for off-road cycling, i.e. cross-country (XC) and marathon cycling,
as well as for competitions of this kind. Not suitable for all-mountain, enduro,
downhill (DH) riding, freeride, dual slalom, downhill/freeride parks, jumps,
drops etc.
Permissible overall weight (accumulated weight of rider, baggage in ruck-
sack and bicycle): 120 kg. Not suitable for child carrier and trailer mounting!
a
b
2.2.3 Special Edition
The equipment to be mounted on frames and framesets should
comply with the respective series-production bicycles. This ap-
plies in particular to the quality and sizes of stems, seat posts
etc. as well as to tyre widths and permitted effective lengths
(travel) of forks and rear shocks. If in doubt, ask your bicycle
dealer or our after-sales service for advice.
XC Line (a)
Designed for off-road cycling, i.e. cross-country (XC) and marathon cycling
for training and competitive purposes. Not suitable for all-mountain, enduro,
downhill (DH) riding, freeride, dual slalom, downhill/freeride parks, jumps,
drops etc.
Permissible overall weight (accumulated weight of rider, baggage in rucksack
and bicycle): 120 kg. Not suitable for child carrier and trailer mounting!
Enduro Line (b)
Designed for off-road cycling, i.e. cross-country (XC) and marathon cycling
for training and competitive purposes as well as for touring. Not suitable for
downhill (DH) riding, freeride, dual slalom, downhill/freeride parks, jumps,
etc.
Permissible overall weight (accumulated weight of rider, baggage in rucksack
and bicycle): 120 kg. Not suitable for child carrier and trailer mounting!
Road Racing Bicycle (c)
Designed for road racing for training and competitive purposes (road races,
cyclosportive, audax, marathon and club races) on tarred or paved roads
with a smooth surface.
Permissible overall weight (accumulated weight of rider, baggage in rucksack
and bicycle): 120 kg. Not suitable for child carrier and trailer mounting!
Cyclocross (d)
Designed for off-road cycling for training and competitive purposes over
typical cyclocross terrain, e.g. on field tracks and forest trails. Not suitable
for mountain bike use, in particular for all-mountain, enduro, downhill (DH)
riding, freeride, dual slalom, downhill/freeride parks, jumps, drops etc.
Permissible overall weight (accumulated weight of rider, baggage in rucksack
and bicycle): 120 kg. Not suitable for child carrier and trailer mounting!
Downhill
Downhill bicycles are designed for high standard downhill races.
Permissible overall weight (accumulated weight of rider, baggage in rucksack
and bicycle): 120 kg. Not suitable for child carrier and trailer mounting!
Freeride
Designed for jumps and drops in most challenging terrains and in bicycle
parks.
Permissible overall weight (accumulated weight of rider, baggage in ruck-
sack and bicycle): 120 kg. Not suitable for child carrier and trailer mounting!
a
b
c
d
24
25
2.3.5 ATB Line (a)
Designed for riding on public roads and hard-surfaced tracks as well as on
easy terrain, e.g. on trails and designated bicycle routes through forests.
These bicycles are not sports bicycles. Not suitable for any kind of competi-
tion or show event.
Permissible overall weight: 100 kg. Not suitable for child carrier and trailer
mounting!
Baggage transport in rucksack or retro fitted pannier rack only. Ask your
bicycle dealer for suitable pannier racks which match the fixing points.
2.3.6 Kids’ Bicycles (b)
Designed to be used for the typical type of kids’ cycling, comparable to that
of a city bicycle. For riding on public roads it must be fitted with additional
lighting components. Please read up on the applicable regulations in your
country concerning the usage of kids’ bicycles.
Please follow the tips provided in section “Safe Cycling on
Public Roads” in chapter “Useful Tips for Cycling in Town and
Country” as well as the information provided in chapter “Kids’
Bicycles”.
Permissible overall weight: 60 kg. Not suitable for child carrier and trailer
mounting!
With some kids’ bicycles baggage transport in rucksack or retro fitted pan-
nier rack only. Ask your bicycle dealer for suitable pannier racks which
match the fixing points.
2.3.7 E-Bike / pedelec (c+d)
Designed for everyday use in the city on public roads and bicycle lanes.
Additional power of up to 25 km/h (16 mph) provided by an electric motor
only whilst pedalling. Riding a pedelec in the EU requires neither a driving
licence nor insurance!
Permissible overall load 120 kg. Not suitable for child carrier and trailer
mounting!
Baggage transport on pannier rack or in pannier bags. Ask your bicycle
dealer for suitable pannier bags matching the fixing points.
Be sure to observe the specific operating instructions included with the fold-
ing bicycle.
In the EU riders of a fast pedelec (over 25 km/h/16 mph) must be at least 16
years old. Both insurance and type approval are matters of national legisla-
tion. Please read up on the applicable regulations in your country.
If you are in doubt, ask your bicycle dealer.
a
b
c
d
2.3 Intended use – Winora Bicycles
Baggage transport in rucksack or retro fitted pannier rack only. Ask your
bicycle dealer for suitable pannier racks which match the fixing points.
2.3.3 Folding Bicycle (c)
Designed for cycling on tarred or paved roads with a smooth surface. For
riding on public roads it must be fitted with additional lighting components.
Please consult the regulations in the country where you use the folding bi-
cycle.
Permissible overall weight (accumulated weight of rider, baggage in ruck-
sack and bicycle): 100 kg. Not suitable for child carrier and trailer mounting!
Be sure to observe the specific operating instructions included with the fold-
ing bicycle.
2.3.4 City Line (d)
Designed for everyday use in the city on public roads and bicycle lanes.
Permissible overall weight: 140 kg. Maximum trailer load: 40 kg. With a
trailer the permissible overall weight is reduced by the trailer load. Example:
Trailer load 30 kg, permissible overall weight of the bicycle 110 kg.
a
b
c
d
Trailers must be mounted to models with hydraulic brake sys-
tems only! Only use suitable trailers that were mounted pro-
fessionally by your bicycle dealer. Full-suspension models are
generally not approved for trailer mounting.
2.3.1 Trekking Line / S.u.B. Line (a)
Designed for riding on public roads and hard-surfaced tracks as well as on
easy terrain, e.g. on trails and designated bicycle routes through forests.
Permissible overall weight: 140 kg. Maximum trailer load: 40 kg. With a
trailer the permissible overall weight is reduced by the trailer load. Example:
Trailer load 30 kg, permissible overall weight of the bicycle 110 kg.
2.3.2 Cross Line (b)
Designed for typical trekking use off public roads and on tracks and desig-
nated bicycle routes through forests.
Permissible overall weight: 140 kg. Maximum trailer load: 40 kg. With a
trailer the permissible overall weight is reduced by the trailer load. Example:
Trailer load 30 kg, permissible overall weight of the bicycle 110 kg.
24
25
2.3.5 ATB Line (a)
Designed for riding on public roads and hard-surfaced tracks as well as on
easy terrain, e.g. on trails and designated bicycle routes through forests.
These bicycles are not sports bicycles. Not suitable for any kind of competi-
tion or show event.
Permissible overall weight: 100 kg. Not suitable for child carrier and trailer
mounting!
Baggage transport in rucksack or retro fitted pannier rack only. Ask your
bicycle dealer for suitable pannier racks which match the fixing points.
2.3.6 Kids’ Bicycles (b)
Designed to be used for the typical type of kids’ cycling, comparable to that
of a city bicycle. For riding on public roads it must be fitted with additional
lighting components. Please read up on the applicable regulations in your
country concerning the usage of kids’ bicycles.
Please follow the tips provided in section “Safe Cycling on
Public Roads” in chapter “Useful Tips for Cycling in Town and
Country” as well as the information provided in chapter “Kids’
Bicycles”.
Permissible overall weight: 60 kg. Not suitable for child carrier and trailer
mounting!
With some kids’ bicycles baggage transport in rucksack or retro fitted pan-
nier rack only. Ask your bicycle dealer for suitable pannier racks which
match the fixing points.
2.3.7 E-Bike / pedelec (c+d)
Designed for everyday use in the city on public roads and bicycle lanes.
Additional power of up to 25 km/h (16 mph) provided by an electric motor
only whilst pedalling. Riding a pedelec in the EU requires neither a driving
licence nor insurance!
Permissible overall load 120 kg. Not suitable for child carrier and trailer
mounting!
Baggage transport on pannier rack or in pannier bags. Ask your bicycle
dealer for suitable pannier bags matching the fixing points.
Be sure to observe the specific operating instructions included with the fold-
ing bicycle.
In the EU riders of a fast pedelec (over 25 km/h/16 mph) must be at least 16
years old. Both insurance and type approval are matters of national legisla-
tion. Please read up on the applicable regulations in your country.
If you are in doubt, ask your bicycle dealer.
a
b
c
d
2.3 Intended use – Winora Bicycles
Baggage transport in rucksack or retro fitted pannier rack only. Ask your
bicycle dealer for suitable pannier racks which match the fixing points.
2.3.3 Folding Bicycle (c)
Designed for cycling on tarred or paved roads with a smooth surface. For
riding on public roads it must be fitted with additional lighting components.
Please consult the regulations in the country where you use the folding bi-
cycle.
Permissible overall weight (accumulated weight of rider, baggage in ruck-
sack and bicycle): 100 kg. Not suitable for child carrier and trailer mounting!
Be sure to observe the specific operating instructions included with the fold-
ing bicycle.
2.3.4 City Line (d)
Designed for everyday use in the city on public roads and bicycle lanes.
Permissible overall weight: 140 kg. Maximum trailer load: 40 kg. With a
trailer the permissible overall weight is reduced by the trailer load. Example:
Trailer load 30 kg, permissible overall weight of the bicycle 110 kg.
a
b
c
d
Trailers must be mounted to models with hydraulic brake sys-
tems only! Only use suitable trailers that were mounted pro-
fessionally by your bicycle dealer. Full-suspension models are
generally not approved for trailer mounting.
2.3.1 Trekking Line / S.u.B. Line (a)
Designed for riding on public roads and hard-surfaced tracks as well as on
easy terrain, e.g. on trails and designated bicycle routes through forests.
Permissible overall weight: 140 kg. Maximum trailer load: 40 kg. With a
trailer the permissible overall weight is reduced by the trailer load. Example:
Trailer load 30 kg, permissible overall weight of the bicycle 110 kg.
2.3.2 Cross Line (b)
Designed for typical trekking use off public roads and on tracks and desig-
nated bicycle routes through forests.
Permissible overall weight: 140 kg. Maximum trailer load: 40 kg. With a
trailer the permissible overall weight is reduced by the trailer load. Example:
Trailer load 30 kg, permissible overall weight of the bicycle 110 kg.



 
Designed for riding on public roads and hard-surfaced tracks as well as on
easy terrain, e.g. on trails and designated bicycle routes through forests.
Permissible overall weight: 140 kg. Maximum trailer load: 40 kg. With a
trailer the permissible overall weight is reduced by the trailer load. Example:
Trailer load 30 kg, permissible overall weight of the bicycle 110 kg.
 
Designed for riding on public roads and hard-surfaced tracks as well as on
easy terrain, e.g. on trails and designated bicycle routes through forests.
Permissible overall weight: 140 kg. Maximum trailer load: 40 kg. With a
trailer the permissible overall weight is reduced by the trailer load. Example:
Trailer load 30 kg, permissible overall weight of the bicycle 110 kg.
a
b
c
d

 
Designed for typical trekking use off public roads and on tracks and desig-
nated bicycle routes through forests.
Permissible overall weight: 140 kg. Maximum trailer load: 40 kg. With a
trailer the permissible overall weight is reduced by the trailer load. Example:
Trailer load 30 kg, permissible overall weight of the bicycle 110 kg.
Baggage transport in rucksack or retro fitted pannier rack only. Ask your
bicycle dealer for suitable pannier racks which match the fixing points.
 
Designed for riding on public roads and hard-surfaced tracks as well as on
easy terrain, e.g. on trails and designated bicycle routes through forests.
Permissible overall weight: 140 kg. Maximum trailer load: 40 kg. With a
trailer the permissible overall weight is reduced by the trailer load. Example:
Trailer load 30 kg, permissible overall weight of the bicycle 110 kg.
a
b
c
d
Trailers must be mounted to models with hydraulic brake sys-
tems only! Only use suitable trailers that were mounted pro-
fessionally by your bicycle dealer. Full-suspension models are
generally not approved for trailer mounting.
 
Designed for everyday use in the city on public roads and bicycle lanes.
Permissible overall weight: 140 kg. Maximum trailer load: 40 kg. With a
trailer the permissible overall weight is reduced by the trailer load. Example:
Trailer load 30 kg, permissible overall weight of the bicycle 110 kg.
 
Designed for riding on public roads and hard-surfaced tracks as well as on
easy terrain, e.g. on trails and designated bicycle routes through forests.
These bicycles are not sports bicycles! Not suitable for any kind of competi-
tions or show event.
Permissible overall weight: 120 kg. Not suitable for child carrier and trailer
mounting!
Trailers must be mounted to models with hydraulic brake sys-
tems only! Only use suitable trailers that were mounted pro-
fessionally by your bicycle dealer. Full-suspension models are
generally not approved for trailer mounting.
 
Designed for everyday use in the city on public roads and bicycle lanes.
Permissible overall weight: 140 kg. Maximum trailer load: 40 kg. With a
trailer the permissible overall weight is reduced by the trailer load. Example:
Trailer load 30 kg, permissible overall weight of the bicycle 110 kg.



 
Designed for riding on public roads and hard-surfaced tracks as well as on
easy terrain, e.g. on trails and designated bicycle routes through forests.
Permissible overall weight: 140 kg. Maximum trailer load: 40 kg. With a
trailer the permissible overall weight is reduced by the trailer load. Example:
Trailer load 30 kg, permissible overall weight of the bicycle 110 kg.
 
Designed for riding on public roads and hard-surfaced tracks as well as on
easy terrain, e.g. on trails and designated bicycle routes through forests.
Permissible overall weight: 140 kg. Maximum trailer load: 40 kg. With a
trailer the permissible overall weight is reduced by the trailer load. Example:
Trailer load 30 kg, permissible overall weight of the bicycle 110 kg.
a
b
c
d

 
Designed for typical trekking use off public roads and on tracks and desig-
nated bicycle routes through forests.
Permissible overall weight: 140 kg. Maximum trailer load: 40 kg. With a
trailer the permissible overall weight is reduced by the trailer load. Example:
Trailer load 30 kg, permissible overall weight of the bicycle 110 kg.
Baggage transport in rucksack or retro fitted pannier rack only. Ask your
bicycle dealer for suitable pannier racks which match the fixing points.
 
Designed for riding on public roads and hard-surfaced tracks as well as on
easy terrain, e.g. on trails and designated bicycle routes through forests.
Permissible overall weight: 140 kg. Maximum trailer load: 40 kg. With a
trailer the permissible overall weight is reduced by the trailer load. Example:
Trailer load 30 kg, permissible overall weight of the bicycle 110 kg.
a
b
c
d
Trailers must be mounted to models with hydraulic brake sys-
tems only! Only use suitable trailers that were mounted pro-
fessionally by your bicycle dealer. Full-suspension models are
generally not approved for trailer mounting.
 
Designed for everyday use in the city on public roads and bicycle lanes.
Permissible overall weight: 140 kg. Maximum trailer load: 40 kg. With a
trailer the permissible overall weight is reduced by the trailer load. Example:
Trailer load 30 kg, permissible overall weight of the bicycle 110 kg.
 
Designed for riding on public roads and hard-surfaced tracks as well as on
easy terrain, e.g. on trails and designated bicycle routes through forests.
These bicycles are not sports bicycles! Not suitable for any kind of competi-
tions or show event.
Permissible overall weight: 120 kg. Not suitable for child carrier and trailer
mounting!
Trailers must be mounted to models with hydraulic brake sys-
tems only! Only use suitable trailers that were mounted pro-
fessionally by your bicycle dealer. Full-suspension models are
generally not approved for trailer mounting.
 
Designed for everyday use in the city on public roads and bicycle lanes.
Permissible overall weight: 140 kg. Maximum trailer load: 40 kg. With a
trailer the permissible overall weight is reduced by the trailer load. Example:
Trailer load 30 kg, permissible overall weight of the bicycle 110 kg.
28
29
3 Legal Requirements for Riding on
Public Roads
If you want to use your bicycle for riding on public roads, it has to be
equipped according to the regulations of your country. Pay particular atten-
tion to your bicycle being equipped with the prescribed set of lights (a) and
reflectors (b). Ask your bicycle dealer to inform you about the regulations in
force in your country. Make yourself familiar with the road traffic regulations
for riding on public roads and off-road.
a
b
2.5.4 Cross Edition (a)
Designed for typical trekking use off public roads and on tracks and desig-
nated bicycle routes through forests.
Permissible overall weight: 140 kg. Maximum trailer load: 40 kg. With a
trailer the permissible overall weight is reduced by the trailer load. Example:
Trailer load 30 kg, permissible overall weight of the bicycle 110 kg.
2.5.5 Race and Fitness Edition (b)
Designed for road racing for training and competitive purposes (road races,
cyclosportive, audax, marathon and club races) on tarred or paved roads
with a smooth surface.
For indoor training, road racing bicycles are only suitable for freewheeling
rollers without brakes or a frame clamping mechanism.
Permissible overall weight (accumulated weight of rider, baggage in ruck-
sack and bicycle): 120 kg. Not suitable for child carrier and trailer mounting!
a
b
2.5.6 Folding Bicycles (c+d)
Designed for cycling on tarred or paved tracks with a smooth surface. For
riding on public roads it must be fitted with additional lighting components.
Please read up on the applicable regulations in your country concerning the
usage of folding bicycles.
Permissible overall weight (accumulated weight of rider, baggage in ruck-
sack and bicycle): 100 kg. Not suitable for child carrier and trailer mounting!
Be sure to observe the specific operating instructions included with the fold-
ing bicycle.
c
d
28
29
3 Legal Requirements for Riding on
Public Roads
If you want to use your bicycle for riding on public roads, it has to be
equipped according to the regulations of your country. Pay particular atten-
tion to your bicycle being equipped with the prescribed set of lights (a) and
reflectors (b). Ask your bicycle dealer to inform you about the regulations in
force in your country. Make yourself familiar with the road traffic regulations
for riding on public roads and off-road.
a
b
2.5.4 Cross Edition (a)
Designed for typical trekking use off public roads and on tracks and desig-
nated bicycle routes through forests.
Permissible overall weight: 140 kg. Maximum trailer load: 40 kg. With a
trailer the permissible overall weight is reduced by the trailer load. Example:
Trailer load 30 kg, permissible overall weight of the bicycle 110 kg.
2.5.5 Race and Fitness Edition (b)
Designed for road racing for training and competitive purposes (road races,
cyclosportive, audax, marathon and club races) on tarred or paved roads
with a smooth surface.
For indoor training, road racing bicycles are only suitable for freewheeling
rollers without brakes or a frame clamping mechanism.
Permissible overall weight (accumulated weight of rider, baggage in ruck-
sack and bicycle): 120 kg. Not suitable for child carrier and trailer mounting!
a
b
2.5.6 Folding Bicycles (c+d)
Designed for cycling on tarred or paved tracks with a smooth surface. For
riding on public roads it must be fitted with additional lighting components.
Please read up on the applicable regulations in your country concerning the
usage of folding bicycles.
Permissible overall weight (accumulated weight of rider, baggage in ruck-
sack and bicycle): 100 kg. Not suitable for child carrier and trailer mounting!
Be sure to observe the specific operating instructions included with the fold-
ing bicycle.
c
d


4 Useful Tips for Cycling in Town
and Country
 
Keep in mind your bicycle is not only sports equipment , but also an eco-
friendly means of transport. Many cities and villages are very committed to
improving cycling conditions by creating cycle lanes and by allowing cyclists
to ride the wrong way up one-way streets. When you set off on your bicycle
always be aware that you are among the vulnerable road user groups. Bicy-
cles do not have airbags, safety belts or a crush zone. A collision may have
serious long-term negative consequences to your health. For this reason
it is very important for you to ride with caution and try to avoid dangerous
situations beforehand.
This manual cannot teach you how to ride or make you familiar
with all rules of conduct on public roads. For more information
please contact a road safety organization in your country, a bi-
cycle club or comparable organizations.

a) Ensure your bicycle is roadworthy.
b) Make yourself familiar with the traffic rules in your country.
c) Ride with caution. Do not endager or provoke other road users.
d) Cycling is not allowed on motorways. ! Please check the
regulations in your country.
e) For safety reasons you are not allowed to listen to music through head-
phones on public roads. Do not use your mobile either.
f) Keep sufficient distance between you and the vehicles ahead. Their
stopping distance is usually significantly shorter.
g) In wet conditions please cycle with caution. With less grip your stopping
distance will get longer. At about 18 km/h (11 mph) you make about 5
metres per second. In wet conditions the stopping distance is twice to
three-times as long as in dry conditions. Adapt your riding habits to the
ever changing conditions on the street. Be sure to cycle at moderate
speed and do not brake too late.
h) Switch on the lighting in poor visibility conditions, such as fog, rain,
dawn, dusk and darkness. Bright clothing will help you to get noticed,
especially in poor light. Be sure to wear straight cut trousers or straps
or cycle clips when you set off on your bicycle. A helmet and protective
glasses are a must for cycling safely.
a
b
i) The following places are typical accident blackspots, where you should
cycle with particular caution:
· Junctions, even with a cycle lane parallel to the road; danger by cars
running in the same direction and turning to the left or right; danger by
oncoming traffic.
· Crossing railway tracks can be hazardous for cyclists, as a trapped front
wheel can throw the cyclist off. Be sure to cross railway tracks at right
angle.
· With a truck or bus besides you, e.g. in front of traffic lights. You may be
overlooked by the driver and are at risk of being run over when the truck
or bus turns to the left or right.
· On cycle lanes: take care of dogs and children crossing the lane unmind-
fully.
Make yourself familiar with the traffic rules before cycling on
public roads. Anticipate the mistakes of other road users!
Parents should take their time to introduce their children to safe cycling
on public roads. In Germany children must cycle on pavements until the age
of eight. Between the age of eight and ten they are still allowed to do so.
For crossing the street, children must get off their bicycle. Please check the
regulations in your country.
Parents are advised to sign their children up to courses where they learn
how to safely cycle on public roads offered by road safety organizations or
the like. For more information see chapter .
 
A bicycle is the ideal means of transport for any nature lover . Today, cy-
cling plays a major role in recreational activities. Cycling through parks and
forest trails has become most popular. To protect nature and avoid conflicts
between cyclists, hikers and municipal authorities it is crucial that certain
basic rules are followed.
To protect wildlife habitat and the flora, please ride on signposted tracks
and lanes only and avoid any off-road cycling across grassland, fields and
through forest. Never ride through waters! Be sure when riding off-road that
you do not ride faster than your cycling skills allow.
Always be respectful to walkers and hikers and ready to brake when riding
downhill or if the road ahead is not clear. Mind your speed and do not leave
skid marks.
Please throw your litter in litter bins or take it home.
Ensure an environmentally friendly disposal of lubricants, cleaning and care
products after use. These agents must not be disposed of with domestic
waste, in nature or emptied into drains.
Cycling off-road requires a great deal of skill, physical fitness
and full concentration. Start with easy cycling tours and in-
crease the degree of difficulty step by step. Please note that
though looking easy, the tricks of a professional actually require
years of training. Do not overestimate your riding skills!
Mountain bikers will find further information at Deutschen Initia-
tive Mountainbike (www.dimb.de) or at International Mountain
Bicycling Association (www.imba.com).
a
b


4 Useful Tips for Cycling in Town
and Country
 
Keep in mind your bicycle is not only sports equipment , but also an eco-
friendly means of transport. Many cities and villages are very committed to
improving cycling conditions by creating cycle lanes and by allowing cyclists
to ride the wrong way up one-way streets. When you set off on your bicycle
always be aware that you are among the vulnerable road user groups. Bicy-
cles do not have airbags, safety belts or a crush zone. A collision may have
serious long-term negative consequences to your health. For this reason
it is very important for you to ride with caution and try to avoid dangerous
situations beforehand.
This manual cannot teach you how to ride or make you familiar
with all rules of conduct on public roads. For more information
please contact a road safety organization in your country, a bi-
cycle club or comparable organizations.

a) Ensure your bicycle is roadworthy.
b) Make yourself familiar with the traffic rules in your country.
c) Ride with caution. Do not endager or provoke other road users.
d) Cycling is not allowed on motorways. ! Please check the
regulations in your country.
e) For safety reasons you are not allowed to listen to music through head-
phones on public roads. Do not use your mobile either.
f) Keep sufficient distance between you and the vehicles ahead. Their
stopping distance is usually significantly shorter.
g) In wet conditions please cycle with caution. With less grip your stopping
distance will get longer. At about 18 km/h (11 mph) you make about 5
metres per second. In wet conditions the stopping distance is twice to
three-times as long as in dry conditions. Adapt your riding habits to the
ever changing conditions on the street. Be sure to cycle at moderate
speed and do not brake too late.
h) Switch on the lighting in poor visibility conditions, such as fog, rain,
dawn, dusk and darkness. Bright clothing will help you to get noticed,
especially in poor light. Be sure to wear straight cut trousers or straps
or cycle clips when you set off on your bicycle. A helmet and protective
glasses are a must for cycling safely.
a
b
i) The following places are typical accident blackspots, where you should
cycle with particular caution:
· Junctions, even with a cycle lane parallel to the road; danger by cars
running in the same direction and turning to the left or right; danger by
oncoming traffic.
· Crossing railway tracks can be hazardous for cyclists, as a trapped front
wheel can throw the cyclist off. Be sure to cross railway tracks at right
angle.
· With a truck or bus besides you, e.g. in front of traffic lights. You may be
overlooked by the driver and are at risk of being run over when the truck
or bus turns to the left or right.
· On cycle lanes: take care of dogs and children crossing the lane unmind-
fully.
Make yourself familiar with the traffic rules before cycling on
public roads. Anticipate the mistakes of other road users!
Parents should take their time to introduce their children to safe cycling
on public roads. In Germany children must cycle on pavements until the age
of eight. Between the age of eight and ten they are still allowed to do so.
For crossing the street, children must get off their bicycle. Please check the
regulations in your country.
Parents are advised to sign their children up to courses where they learn
how to safely cycle on public roads offered by road safety organizations or
the like. For more information see chapter .
 
A bicycle is the ideal means of transport for any nature lover . Today, cy-
cling plays a major role in recreational activities. Cycling through parks and
forest trails has become most popular. To protect nature and avoid conflicts
between cyclists, hikers and municipal authorities it is crucial that certain
basic rules are followed.
To protect wildlife habitat and the flora, please ride on signposted tracks
and lanes only and avoid any off-road cycling across grassland, fields and
through forest. Never ride through waters! Be sure when riding off-road that
you do not ride faster than your cycling skills allow.
Always be respectful to walkers and hikers and ready to brake when riding
downhill or if the road ahead is not clear. Mind your speed and do not leave
skid marks.
Please throw your litter in litter bins or take it home.
Ensure an environmentally friendly disposal of lubricants, cleaning and care
products after use. These agents must not be disposed of with domestic
waste, in nature or emptied into drains.
Cycling off-road requires a great deal of skill, physical fitness
and full concentration. Start with easy cycling tours and in-
crease the degree of difficulty step by step. Please note that
though looking easy, the tricks of a professional actually require
years of training. Do not overestimate your riding skills!
Mountain bikers will find further information at Deutschen Initia-
tive Mountainbike (www.dimb.de) or at International Mountain
Bicycling Association (www.imba.com).
a
b
32
33
5 Brake System
5.1 General Information
Brakes (a+b) are used for adjusting one’s speed to the surrounding terrain
and traffic. In an emergency situation, the brakes must bring the bicycle to
a halt as quickly as possible. In the process of such emergency braking, the
rider’s weight shifts forward, thus reducing the load on the rear wheel (c+d).
The rate of deceleration is primarily limited by the danger of the rear wheel
losing contact with the ground resulting in an overturning of the bicycle and
secondly by the tyres’ grip on the road. This problem becomes particularly
acute when riding downhill. Therefore, in case of an emergency braking situ-
ation you have to try to put your weight back as far as possible.
Actuate both brakes simultaneously and bear in mind that, due to the weight
transfer, the front brakes can generate a far better braking effect on a sur-
face with good grip.
The braking conditions on unpaved surfaces differ, i.e. overbraking the front
wheel can make the wheel slip away. Therefore, be sure to practise braking
on different kinds of surface.
Please note that some dirt bikes are fitted with only one brake.
This is to prevent the rider from falling down his bicycle by too
strongly applying the front brake. This means, however, also a
reduction of the braking effect. For this reason it is very impor-
tant for you to ride with caution and with this fact in mind. Do
not use such type of mountain bike on public roads!
Wet weather reduces the braking power. Apply the brakes carefully when
riding on wet or slippery surface, as the tyres can easily slip away. Therefore,
reduce your speed when riding in such conditions.
Prolonged braking or permanent dragging of brake pads can lead to over-
heating of the rims in the case of rim brakes. This can damage the inner tube
or make the tyre slip on the rim causing a sudden loss of air which could
lead to a serious accident.
With disc brakes too, prolonged braking or permanent dragging of brake
pads can lead to an overheating of the brake system. This can lead to a
reduction of the braking power or brake failure. Risk of an accident!
When riding downhill, get used to braking hard and then releasing the brake
again, whenever the road surface and the situation allows for it. If you are in
doubt about the braking action, stop and let the brake system cool down.
a
b
c
d
The assignment of brake lever to brake calliper can vary (a), e.g.
left lever acts on front brake. Make yourself familiar with the
lever-to-brake assignment or ask your bicycle dealer to change
the brakes as you want them.
Be careful while getting used to the brakes (b). Practise emer-
gency stops in a place free of traffic until you are comfortable
controlling your bicycle. This can save you from having acci-
dents.
Wet weather reduces your braking power and the road grip of
the tyres. Be aware of longer stopping distances when riding in
the rain, reduce your speed and actuate the brakes carefully.
Ensure that braking surfaces are absolutely free of wax, grease
and oil. Risk of an accident!
5.1.1 Brakes – How They Work and What to Do About Wear
Actuating the hand lever on the handlebars (c+d) causes a brake pad to be
pressed against a brake surface, and the ensuing friction slows down the
wheel. If water, dirt or oil gets in contact with one of the braking surfaces,
this changes the coefficient of friction and deceleration is reduced. This is
why brakes respond with a slight delay and less powerfully in wet weather.
In order to maintain their effectiveness, brakes need to be checked and
readjusted regularly.
a
b
c
d
32
33
5 Brake System
5.1 General Information
Brakes (a+b) are used for adjusting one’s speed to the surrounding terrain
and traffic. In an emergency situation, the brakes must bring the bicycle to
a halt as quickly as possible. In the process of such emergency braking, the
rider’s weight shifts forward, thus reducing the load on the rear wheel (c+d).
The rate of deceleration is primarily limited by the danger of the rear wheel
losing contact with the ground resulting in an overturning of the bicycle and
secondly by the tyres’ grip on the road. This problem becomes particularly
acute when riding downhill. Therefore, in case of an emergency braking situ-
ation you have to try to put your weight back as far as possible.
Actuate both brakes simultaneously and bear in mind that, due to the weight
transfer, the front brakes can generate a far better braking effect on a sur-
face with good grip.
The braking conditions on unpaved surfaces differ, i.e. overbraking the front
wheel can make the wheel slip away. Therefore, be sure to practise braking
on different kinds of surface.
Please note that some dirt bikes are fitted with only one brake.
This is to prevent the rider from falling down his bicycle by too
strongly applying the front brake. This means, however, also a
reduction of the braking effect. For this reason it is very impor-
tant for you to ride with caution and with this fact in mind. Do
not use such type of mountain bike on public roads!
Wet weather reduces the braking power. Apply the brakes carefully when
riding on wet or slippery surface, as the tyres can easily slip away. Therefore,
reduce your speed when riding in such conditions.
Prolonged braking or permanent dragging of brake pads can lead to over-
heating of the rims in the case of rim brakes. This can damage the inner tube
or make the tyre slip on the rim causing a sudden loss of air which could
lead to a serious accident.
With disc brakes too, prolonged braking or permanent dragging of brake
pads can lead to an overheating of the brake system. This can lead to a
reduction of the braking power or brake failure. Risk of an accident!
When riding downhill, get used to braking hard and then releasing the brake
again, whenever the road surface and the situation allows for it. If you are in
doubt about the braking action, stop and let the brake system cool down.
a
b
c
d
The assignment of brake lever to brake calliper can vary (a), e.g.
left lever acts on front brake. Make yourself familiar with the
lever-to-brake assignment or ask your bicycle dealer to change
the brakes as you want them.
Be careful while getting used to the brakes (b). Practise emer-
gency stops in a place free of traffic until you are comfortable
controlling your bicycle. This can save you from having acci-
dents.
Wet weather reduces your braking power and the road grip of
the tyres. Be aware of longer stopping distances when riding in
the rain, reduce your speed and actuate the brakes carefully.
Ensure that braking surfaces are absolutely free of wax, grease
and oil. Risk of an accident!
5.1.1 Brakes – How They Work and What to Do About Wear
Actuating the hand lever on the handlebars (c+d) causes a brake pad to be
pressed against a brake surface, and the ensuing friction slows down the
wheel. If water, dirt or oil gets in contact with one of the braking surfaces,
this changes the coefficient of friction and deceleration is reduced. This is
why brakes respond with a slight delay and less powerfully in wet weather.
In order to maintain their effectiveness, brakes need to be checked and
readjusted regularly.
a
b
c
d


a
 
The friction generated by braking causes wear to the brake pads as well
as to the rims. Frequent rides in the rain and dirt and over hilly terrain can
accelerate wear on both braking surfaces.
Rims are provided with wear indicators, i.e. grooves or circular indenta-
tions. If the rim is worn down to the point where the grooves or indentations
are no longer visible, they need to be replaced. Once the abrasion of the rim
has reached a certain critical point, the rim may break under the tyre pres-
sure. This can make the wheel jam or the inner tube burst, both of which
can cause an accident!
The grooves in the brake pads are worn down by braking. See your bicycle
dealer and ask them to examine the remaining thickness of the rims when
you have worn through your second set of brake pads at the latest. Your
bicycle dealer has a special measuring device for determining the remaining
thickness of the rims.
Wet weather reduces your braking power. Be aware of longer
stopping distances when riding in the rain!
When replacing any parts be sure to only use parts that bear
the appropriate mark and, to be on the safe side, original spare
parts. Your bicycle dealer will be pleased to help you!
Ensure that the brake pads are absolutely free of wax, grease
and oil.
Have your rims regularly inspected and measured by a bicycle
dealer .
Brake cables that are damaged , e.g. frayed, should be re-
placed immediately, as they can otherwise fail in a critical mo-
ment, possibly causing a crash.
 
Common V-brake designs have two brake arms mounted separately on ei-
ther side of the rim. When actuating the brake lever, both arms are tightened
by the cable, the pads touch the rim.

Check whether the brake pads are accurately aligned with the rims and
still sufficiently thick. You can judge the wear of the brake pads by the ap-
pearance of the grooves. If the pads are worn down to the bottom of the
grooves, it is time to replace them.
The brake pads must hit the rim simultaneously, first touching it with the front
portion of their surface. At the moment of first contact the rear portion of the
pads should be a millimetre away from the rim. Viewed from the top the brake
pads form a “V“ with the trough pointing to the front. This V-shaped
setting prevents the brakes from screeching when applied.
b
c
d
The brake lever must always remain clear of the handlebars. You should not
even be able to pull them all the way to the handlebars in the event of an
emergency stop.
Only a successful passing of all these points will ensure a correctly adjusted
brake.
Adjusting the position of the brake pads relative to the rims re-
quires a considerable degree of skill. Replacing and adjusting
the brake pads is a job best left to your bicycle dealer.

Some V-brakes of city and trekking bicycles are fitted with a power modula-
tor that acts as brake force control during braking hereby limiting the brake
force.
This device is intended to prevent overbraking and a blocking of the front
wheel.
An inappropriately adjusted power modulator may result in se-
vere accidents. Ask your bicycle dealer about the system your
bicycle is fitted with.

Almost all brake designs have a bolt located next to one or both brake cal-
lipers for adjusting the initial spring tension . Adjust this bolt carefully until
the distance between brake pads and rim is the same on either side.
To adjust the brakes, unscrew the knurled lock ring located at the point
where the brake cable enters the brake lever on the handlebars .
Unscrew the knurled, slotted adjusting bolt by a few turns. This reduces the
free travel of the brake lever.
Keeping the adjusting bolt firm, tighten the lock ring against the brake lever
mount. This prevents the adjusting bolt from coming loose by itself.
Ensure that the slot of the bolt faces neither forward nor upward, as this
would permit water or dirt to enter.
Always test the brakes’ function when stationary after adjusting
them, making sure the brake pads fully engage with the rim
when you pull them hard.
a
b
c
d


a
 
The friction generated by braking causes wear to the brake pads as well
as to the rims. Frequent rides in the rain and dirt and over hilly terrain can
accelerate wear on both braking surfaces.
Rims are provided with wear indicators, i.e. grooves or circular indenta-
tions. If the rim is worn down to the point where the grooves or indentations
are no longer visible, they need to be replaced. Once the abrasion of the rim
has reached a certain critical point, the rim may break under the tyre pres-
sure. This can make the wheel jam or the inner tube burst, both of which
can cause an accident!
The grooves in the brake pads are worn down by braking. See your bicycle
dealer and ask them to examine the remaining thickness of the rims when
you have worn through your second set of brake pads at the latest. Your
bicycle dealer has a special measuring device for determining the remaining
thickness of the rims.
Wet weather reduces your braking power. Be aware of longer
stopping distances when riding in the rain!
When replacing any parts be sure to only use parts that bear
the appropriate mark and, to be on the safe side, original spare
parts. Your bicycle dealer will be pleased to help you!
Ensure that the brake pads are absolutely free of wax, grease
and oil.
Have your rims regularly inspected and measured by a bicycle
dealer .
Brake cables that are damaged , e.g. frayed, should be re-
placed immediately, as they can otherwise fail in a critical mo-
ment, possibly causing a crash.
 
Common V-brake designs have two brake arms mounted separately on ei-
ther side of the rim. When actuating the brake lever, both arms are tightened
by the cable, the pads touch the rim.

Check whether the brake pads are accurately aligned with the rims and
still sufficiently thick. You can judge the wear of the brake pads by the ap-
pearance of the grooves. If the pads are worn down to the bottom of the
grooves, it is time to replace them.
The brake pads must hit the rim simultaneously, first touching it with the front
portion of their surface. At the moment of first contact the rear portion of the
pads should be a millimetre away from the rim. Viewed from the top the brake
pads form a “V“ with the trough pointing to the front. This V-shaped
setting prevents the brakes from screeching when applied.
b
c
d
The brake lever must always remain clear of the handlebars. You should not
even be able to pull them all the way to the handlebars in the event of an
emergency stop.
Only a successful passing of all these points will ensure a correctly adjusted
brake.
Adjusting the position of the brake pads relative to the rims re-
quires a considerable degree of skill. Replacing and adjusting
the brake pads is a job best left to your bicycle dealer.

Some V-brakes of city and trekking bicycles are fitted with a power modula-
tor that acts as brake force control during braking hereby limiting the brake
force.
This device is intended to prevent overbraking and a blocking of the front
wheel.
An inappropriately adjusted power modulator may result in se-
vere accidents. Ask your bicycle dealer about the system your
bicycle is fitted with.

Almost all brake designs have a bolt located next to one or both brake cal-
lipers for adjusting the initial spring tension . Adjust this bolt carefully until
the distance between brake pads and rim is the same on either side.
To adjust the brakes, unscrew the knurled lock ring located at the point
where the brake cable enters the brake lever on the handlebars .
Unscrew the knurled, slotted adjusting bolt by a few turns. This reduces the
free travel of the brake lever.
Keeping the adjusting bolt firm, tighten the lock ring against the brake lever
mount. This prevents the adjusting bolt from coming loose by itself.
Ensure that the slot of the bolt faces neither forward nor upward, as this
would permit water or dirt to enter.
Always test the brakes’ function when stationary after adjusting
them, making sure the brake pads fully engage with the rim
when you pull them hard.
a
b
c
d


 
With side-pull brakes  the brake arms are suspended from a common
point, thus forming an integral system. When actuating the brake lever, both
arms are tightened by the cable, the pads touch the rim.

Check whether the brake pads are accurately aligned with the rims and still
sufficiently thick. You can judge the wear of the brake pads by the appear-
ance of the grooves. If the pads are worn down, it is time to replace them.
When you actuate the brake lever, both brake arms must contact the rim
simultaneously without touching the tyre.
The brake lever must always remain clear of the handlebars. You should not
even be able to pull them all the way to the handlebars in the event of an
emergency stop. Only a successful passing of all these points will ensure a
correctly adjusted brake!
Brake adjustment is a job best left to your bicycle dealer.

Release the fastening bolt of the brake pad by one to at most two complete
turns . Push the brake pad to the correct height and align it according to
the rim before retightening the fastening bolt to the specified torque.

With dual pivot brakes, turn the small (headless) screw, located at the side
or on top of the calliper, until the left and right brake pad are at the same
distance from the rim .
Furthermore, check whether the bolt connecting the brake to the frame is
still tightened to the prescribed torque, as specified in chapter 
.
To adjust the brake, turn the knurled nut or bolt through which the brake
cable passes at the brake calliper  until the travel of the brake lever suits
your needs. Following the stationary test, check the brakes in a place free
of traffic.
Always test the brakes’ function when stationary after adjust-
ing them, making sure the brake pads fully engage with the rim
when you pull them hard without touching the tyre. Verify that
the brake lever cannot be pulled all the way to the handlebars.
a
b
c
d
 
Some cyclocross bicycles are fitted with additional brake levers  to
ensure braking from a secure handlebar position, i.e. with the hands on the
horizontal part of a drop bar. These brake levers can be used on an equal
footing, but not simultaneously with the other brake levers. In cyclocross
conditions standard side-pull brakes would get clogged with mud. For this
reason cyclocross bicycles are fitted with cantilever brakes that provide
more mud clearance to the dirty tyres.

As with all rim brakes, the brake pads should be accurately aligned with the
rims and be sufficiently thick. They should hit the rim first with the front por-
tion of their surface. The rear portion of the pads should be a millimetre away
from the rim. Viewed from the top the brake pads form a “V“ with the trough
pointing to the front . The brake arms including pads must hit the rim
simultaneously. The brake lever must always remain clear of the handlebars.
You should not even be able to pull them all the way to the handlebars in the
event of an emergency stop.

Almost all cantilever brakes have a bolt located next to one brake pad for
adjusting the initial spring tension. Adjust this bolt until the distance between
brake pad and rim is equal on either side.
To readjust the brake, release the knurled lock ring located at the cable
hanger or brake lever. Unscrew the knurled, slotted adjusting bolt by a few
turns. This reduces the free travel of the brake lever.
Adjusting the position of the brake pads relative to the rims re-
quires a considerable degree of skill. Replacing and adjusting
the brake pads is a job best left to your bicycle dealer.
Always test the brakes’ function when stationary after adjusting
them, making sure the brake pads fully engage with the rim
when you pull them hard.
 
Hydraulic brakes  are extremely powerful and require very little
maintenance.
With this brake type, as well, the brake pads wear down and the lever travel
increases. Most brake models are, however, fitted with a bolt or a small
knob at the brake lever to compensate the wear.
Manufacturers of hydraulic brakes deliver their products with
detailed instructions. Read them carefully before removing the
wheel or doing any maintenance work. Misuse can lead to brake
failure or accidents!
a
b
c
d


 
With side-pull brakes  the brake arms are suspended from a common
point, thus forming an integral system. When actuating the brake lever, both
arms are tightened by the cable, the pads touch the rim.

Check whether the brake pads are accurately aligned with the rims and still
sufficiently thick. You can judge the wear of the brake pads by the appear-
ance of the grooves. If the pads are worn down, it is time to replace them.
When you actuate the brake lever, both brake arms must contact the rim
simultaneously without touching the tyre.
The brake lever must always remain clear of the handlebars. You should not
even be able to pull them all the way to the handlebars in the event of an
emergency stop. Only a successful passing of all these points will ensure a
correctly adjusted brake!
Brake adjustment is a job best left to your bicycle dealer.

Release the fastening bolt of the brake pad by one to at most two complete
turns . Push the brake pad to the correct height and align it according to
the rim before retightening the fastening bolt to the specified torque.

With dual pivot brakes, turn the small (headless) screw, located at the side
or on top of the calliper, until the left and right brake pad are at the same
distance from the rim .
Furthermore, check whether the bolt connecting the brake to the frame is
still tightened to the prescribed torque, as specified in chapter 
.
To adjust the brake, turn the knurled nut or bolt through which the brake
cable passes at the brake calliper  until the travel of the brake lever suits
your needs. Following the stationary test, check the brakes in a place free
of traffic.
Always test the brakes’ function when stationary after adjust-
ing them, making sure the brake pads fully engage with the rim
when you pull them hard without touching the tyre. Verify that
the brake lever cannot be pulled all the way to the handlebars.
a
b
c
d
 
Some cyclocross bicycles are fitted with additional brake levers  to
ensure braking from a secure handlebar position, i.e. with the hands on the
horizontal part of a drop bar. These brake levers can be used on an equal
footing, but not simultaneously with the other brake levers. In cyclocross
conditions standard side-pull brakes would get clogged with mud. For this
reason cyclocross bicycles are fitted with cantilever brakes that provide
more mud clearance to the dirty tyres.

As with all rim brakes, the brake pads should be accurately aligned with the
rims and be sufficiently thick. They should hit the rim first with the front por-
tion of their surface. The rear portion of the pads should be a millimetre away
from the rim. Viewed from the top the brake pads form a “V“ with the trough
pointing to the front . The brake arms including pads must hit the rim
simultaneously. The brake lever must always remain clear of the handlebars.
You should not even be able to pull them all the way to the handlebars in the
event of an emergency stop.

Almost all cantilever brakes have a bolt located next to one brake pad for
adjusting the initial spring tension. Adjust this bolt until the distance between
brake pad and rim is equal on either side.
To readjust the brake, release the knurled lock ring located at the cable
hanger or brake lever. Unscrew the knurled, slotted adjusting bolt by a few
turns. This reduces the free travel of the brake lever.
Adjusting the position of the brake pads relative to the rims re-
quires a considerable degree of skill. Replacing and adjusting
the brake pads is a job best left to your bicycle dealer.
Always test the brakes’ function when stationary after adjusting
them, making sure the brake pads fully engage with the rim
when you pull them hard.
 
Hydraulic brakes  are extremely powerful and require very little
maintenance.
With this brake type, as well, the brake pads wear down and the lever travel
increases. Most brake models are, however, fitted with a bolt or a small
knob at the brake lever to compensate the wear.
Manufacturers of hydraulic brakes deliver their products with
detailed instructions. Read them carefully before removing the
wheel or doing any maintenance work. Misuse can lead to brake
failure or accidents!
a
b
c
d
38
39
5.2.4.1 Checking and Readjusting
Check the pads regularly for wear and alignment. Indicators, i.e. usually
grooves in the pads, tell you whether the brake pads are worn down or not.
If the pads are worn down to the bottom of the grooves, it is time to replace
them (b).
Keep the brake callipers, especially the brake pad area, clean, as dirt can
prevent the pads from travelling back in their rest position. Regularly check
the lines and connections for leaks.
Loose connections or leaky brake lines can drastically impair
braking power. If you find leaks in the brake system or buckled
lines, contact your bicycle dealer. Risk of an accident!
a
b
5.3 Disc Brakes
The most striking feature of disc brakes (a) is that they combine outstand-
ing braking power with good weather resistance. They respond a lot faster
in wet conditions than rim brakes do and achieve their normal high braking
power within a very short time. They require fairly little maintenance and do
not wear down the rims as rim brakes do. However, they tend to be noisy
when they are wet.
New brake pads have to be bedded in before they reach their
optimal braking performance. For this purpose, accelerate the
bicycle 30 to 50 times to around 30 km/h (18 mph) and bring it
to a halt each time. This procedure is finished, when the force
required at the lever for braking has stopped decreasing.
The brake levers can be adjusted to the size of your hands, allowing you
to operate them with optimal effectiveness. In most cases this is done by
means of a small Allen bolt located directly at the brake lever (b). You may
need to readjust the brake pads, as well. Please read the manual of the
brake manufacturer.
With mechanical disc brakes the travel of the brake lever becomes longer
as the brake pads wear down (c). It is therefore necessary to readjust these
brakes regularly. If you are in doubt or if you have any questions, please
contact your bicycle dealer!
If your brake system works with DOT brake fluid, the latter needs
to be replaced regularly according to the intervals prescribed by
the manufacturer.
The manufacturers of disc brakes usually deliver their products
with detailed instructions. Be sure to read them carefully before
removing a wheel or doing any maintenance work.
Disc brakes get hot in use. For this reason do not touch the
brakes directly after stopping, especially after a long downhill
ride.
Do not open the brake lines. Brake fluid can be very unhealthy
and damaging to the paint if it leaks out.
5.3.1 Checking Hydraulic Disc Brakes
Regularly check the lines (d) and connections for leaks while pulling on the
lever. If brake fluid leaks out, contact your bicycle dealer immediately, as a
leak can render your brakes ineffective.
a
b
c
d
38
39
5.2.4.1 Checking and Readjusting
Check the pads regularly for wear and alignment. Indicators, i.e. usually
grooves in the pads, tell you whether the brake pads are worn down or not.
If the pads are worn down to the bottom of the grooves, it is time to replace
them (b).
Keep the brake callipers, especially the brake pad area, clean, as dirt can
prevent the pads from travelling back in their rest position. Regularly check
the lines and connections for leaks.
Loose connections or leaky brake lines can drastically impair
braking power. If you find leaks in the brake system or buckled
lines, contact your bicycle dealer. Risk of an accident!
a
b
5.3 Disc Brakes
The most striking feature of disc brakes (a) is that they combine outstand-
ing braking power with good weather resistance. They respond a lot faster
in wet conditions than rim brakes do and achieve their normal high braking
power within a very short time. They require fairly little maintenance and do
not wear down the rims as rim brakes do. However, they tend to be noisy
when they are wet.
New brake pads have to be bedded in before they reach their
optimal braking performance. For this purpose, accelerate the
bicycle 30 to 50 times to around 30 km/h (18 mph) and bring it
to a halt each time. This procedure is finished, when the force
required at the lever for braking has stopped decreasing.
The brake levers can be adjusted to the size of your hands, allowing you
to operate them with optimal effectiveness. In most cases this is done by
means of a small Allen bolt located directly at the brake lever (b). You may
need to readjust the brake pads, as well. Please read the manual of the
brake manufacturer.
With mechanical disc brakes the travel of the brake lever becomes longer
as the brake pads wear down (c). It is therefore necessary to readjust these
brakes regularly. If you are in doubt or if you have any questions, please
contact your bicycle dealer!
If your brake system works with DOT brake fluid, the latter needs
to be replaced regularly according to the intervals prescribed by
the manufacturer.
The manufacturers of disc brakes usually deliver their products
with detailed instructions. Be sure to read them carefully before
removing a wheel or doing any maintenance work.
Disc brakes get hot in use. For this reason do not touch the
brakes directly after stopping, especially after a long downhill
ride.
Do not open the brake lines. Brake fluid can be very unhealthy
and damaging to the paint if it leaks out.
5.3.1 Checking Hydraulic Disc Brakes
Regularly check the lines (d) and connections for leaks while pulling on the
lever. If brake fluid leaks out, contact your bicycle dealer immediately, as a
leak can render your brakes ineffective.
a
b
c
d
40
41
Check the pads for wear by inspecting the thickness of the braking material
attached to the backing plate within the brake calliper (a) or view through the
window on the upper side of the calliper (b). If there is approximately 1mm of
material left on each brake pad, remove the pads according to the manufac-
turer’s instructions, check them thoroughly and replace them, if necessary.
Dirty brake pads and rotors can lead to drastically reduced
braking power. Therefore, make sure the brake remains free of
oil and other fluids, especially when you clean your bicycle or
grease the chain. Dirty brake pads can under no circumstances
be cleaned, they must be replaced! Rotors can be cleaned with
warm water and mild soap. There are also special brake clean-
ers available.
Loose connections and leaky brake lines drastically impair brak-
ing power. If you find leaks in the brake system or buckled lines,
contact your bicycle dealer immediately.
The manufacturers of hydraulic disc brakes usually deliver their
products with detailed instructions. Be sure to read them care-
fully before removing a wheel or doing any maintenance work.
5.3.2 Checking and Readjusting Mechanical
Disc Brakes
Regularly check whether you get a positive braking response before the
lever touches the handlebars.
Make sure the brake cables are in sound condition!
To a certain extent, wear of the brake pads can be compensated directly at
the hand lever. Unscrew the union nut on the bolt through which the cable
enters the lever and then unscrew the bolt until the lever has the desired
travel (c). Retighten the lock nut by taking care that the slot of the bolt does
not face upward or forward, as this would permit an unnecessarily high
amount of water or dirt to enter (d).
Now check the functioning of the brake and see to it that the brake pads
do not drag on the rotor ((a) p. 41) when you release the brake lever and let
the wheel spin.
Repeated readjustment at the brake lever makes the arm on the brake cal-
liper change its position. This can reduce braking power and result in a
complete brake failure in an extreme case!
Some systems must be readjusted directly at the brake calliper
to compensate wear. For more information please read the en-
closed manual of the brake manufacturer.
a
b
c
d
Some models offer further ways of adjusting the brakes directly at the brake
calliper, though this requires a certain amount of skill. In any case, be sure
to read the original instructions of the brake manufacturer before adjusting
the brakes. If you are in doubt or if you have any questions, please contact
your bicycle dealer!
Damaged cables (b) should be replaced immediately, as they
can snap.
Repeated readjustment at the brake lever can drastically reduce
the maximum braking performance.
The manufacturers of mechanical disc brakes usually deliver
their products with detailed instructions. Be sure to read them
carefully before removing a wheel or doing any maintenance
work.
If your brake system works with DOT brake fluid, the latter needs
to be replaced regularly according to the intervals prescribed by
the manufacturer.
a
b
40
41
Check the pads for wear by inspecting the thickness of the braking material
attached to the backing plate within the brake calliper (a) or view through the
window on the upper side of the calliper (b). If there is approximately 1mm of
material left on each brake pad, remove the pads according to the manufac-
turer’s instructions, check them thoroughly and replace them, if necessary.
Dirty brake pads and rotors can lead to drastically reduced
braking power. Therefore, make sure the brake remains free of
oil and other fluids, especially when you clean your bicycle or
grease the chain. Dirty brake pads can under no circumstances
be cleaned, they must be replaced! Rotors can be cleaned with
warm water and mild soap. There are also special brake clean-
ers available.
Loose connections and leaky brake lines drastically impair brak-
ing power. If you find leaks in the brake system or buckled lines,
contact your bicycle dealer immediately.
The manufacturers of hydraulic disc brakes usually deliver their
products with detailed instructions. Be sure to read them care-
fully before removing a wheel or doing any maintenance work.
5.3.2 Checking and Readjusting Mechanical
Disc Brakes
Regularly check whether you get a positive braking response before the
lever touches the handlebars.
Make sure the brake cables are in sound condition!
To a certain extent, wear of the brake pads can be compensated directly at
the hand lever. Unscrew the union nut on the bolt through which the cable
enters the lever and then unscrew the bolt until the lever has the desired
travel (c). Retighten the lock nut by taking care that the slot of the bolt does
not face upward or forward, as this would permit an unnecessarily high
amount of water or dirt to enter (d).
Now check the functioning of the brake and see to it that the brake pads
do not drag on the rotor ((a) p. 41) when you release the brake lever and let
the wheel spin.
Repeated readjustment at the brake lever makes the arm on the brake cal-
liper change its position. This can reduce braking power and result in a
complete brake failure in an extreme case!
Some systems must be readjusted directly at the brake calliper
to compensate wear. For more information please read the en-
closed manual of the brake manufacturer.
a
b
c
d
Some models offer further ways of adjusting the brakes directly at the brake
calliper, though this requires a certain amount of skill. In any case, be sure
to read the original instructions of the brake manufacturer before adjusting
the brakes. If you are in doubt or if you have any questions, please contact
your bicycle dealer!
Damaged cables (b) should be replaced immediately, as they
can snap.
Repeated readjustment at the brake lever can drastically reduce
the maximum braking performance.
The manufacturers of mechanical disc brakes usually deliver
their products with detailed instructions. Be sure to read them
carefully before removing a wheel or doing any maintenance
work.
If your brake system works with DOT brake fluid, the latter needs
to be replaced regularly according to the intervals prescribed by
the manufacturer.
a
b


 
These types of brakes are hardly found any more and only still common on
city and kids’ bicycles . The brake mechanism of these brakes is fully
enclosed and combined with a geared hub. Their brake pads and surfaces
are largely protected against the influences of the weather.
The braking force is transmitted through cables from the levers to the brakes.
 
Check whether the inner cables of the Bowden cables in the area of the
grips and brake itself are still in sound condition. They must not be frayed.
Damaged cables should be replaced immediately, as they can snap. Brakes
that have been adjusted at the brake lever only can lose their braking power.
Regularly check whether you get a positive braking response before the
lever touches the handlebars .
To a certain extent, wear of the brake pads can be compensated directly at
the hand lever. Unscrew the union nut on the bolt through which the cable
enters the lever and then unscrew the bolt until the lever has the desired
travel.
Retighten the lock nut by taking care that the slot of the bolt does not face
upward or forward, as this would permit an unnecessarily high amount of
water or dirt to enter .
Now check the functioning of the brake and see to it that the brake pads
do not drag along the braking surface when you release the brake lever and
let the wheel spin.
Repeated readjustment at the brake lever makes the arm on the brake calli-
per change its position. This can reduce braking power which may be insuf-
ficient in an extreme case! After having repeatedly readjusted your brake on
your own, ask your bicycle dealer to do this delicate job.
If you intend to do any further adjustment on your brake, be sure to read the
original instructions of the brake manufacturer before you start. In case you
are in doubt, ask your bicycle dealer for help.
a
b
c
d
Check regularly whether the torque support is still firmly attached to the
frame or fork . Use a torque wrench and never exceed the maximum
tightening torque! You will find the prescribed values in chapter 
, directly on the components and/or in the
manuals of the component manufacturers.
The risk of overheating is particularly high with closed brake systems .
Brake overheating occurs on prolonged (steep) downhill rides with perma-
nent brake dragging. Brake fade is a result thereof which, in extreme cases,
may lead to brake failure. Therefore, if you notice a reduction of the brak-
ing effect, stop and let the brake system cool down. Sometimes, it will be
enough to operate the front and rear brake in an alternating pattern. If that
will not suffice, stop for a couple of minutes before you set off again.
 
This brake is operated by pedalling backward. For maximum braking power,
step on one of the pedals in its rearmost position with the cranks horizontal.
With SRAM models braking power is increased when you have switched to
a lower gear beforehand.
With back-pedal brakes the chain tension has to be checked regularly .
The amount of play, midway between chainring and sprocket, should not be
more than two centimetres.
If there is any play, have the chain tightened by your bicycle dealer!
Check regularly whether the brake torque arm (torque sup-
port) is still firmly attached to the frame or fork. Use a torque
wrench and never exceed the maximum tightening torque!
You will find the prescribed values in chapter “Recommended
Tightening Torques”, directly on the components and/or in the
manuals of the component manufacturers.
Please note that there is no rear wheel braking with a slipped
chain! Risk of an accident!
a
b
c
d


 
These types of brakes are hardly found any more and only still common on
city and kids’ bicycles . The brake mechanism of these brakes is fully
enclosed and combined with a geared hub. Their brake pads and surfaces
are largely protected against the influences of the weather.
The braking force is transmitted through cables from the levers to the brakes.
 
Check whether the inner cables of the Bowden cables in the area of the
grips and brake itself are still in sound condition. They must not be frayed.
Damaged cables should be replaced immediately, as they can snap. Brakes
that have been adjusted at the brake lever only can lose their braking power.
Regularly check whether you get a positive braking response before the
lever touches the handlebars .
To a certain extent, wear of the brake pads can be compensated directly at
the hand lever. Unscrew the union nut on the bolt through which the cable
enters the lever and then unscrew the bolt until the lever has the desired
travel.
Retighten the lock nut by taking care that the slot of the bolt does not face
upward or forward, as this would permit an unnecessarily high amount of
water or dirt to enter .
Now check the functioning of the brake and see to it that the brake pads
do not drag along the braking surface when you release the brake lever and
let the wheel spin.
Repeated readjustment at the brake lever makes the arm on the brake calli-
per change its position. This can reduce braking power which may be insuf-
ficient in an extreme case! After having repeatedly readjusted your brake on
your own, ask your bicycle dealer to do this delicate job.
If you intend to do any further adjustment on your brake, be sure to read the
original instructions of the brake manufacturer before you start. In case you
are in doubt, ask your bicycle dealer for help.
a
b
c
d
Check regularly whether the torque support is still firmly attached to the
frame or fork . Use a torque wrench and never exceed the maximum
tightening torque! You will find the prescribed values in chapter 
, directly on the components and/or in the
manuals of the component manufacturers.
The risk of overheating is particularly high with closed brake systems .
Brake overheating occurs on prolonged (steep) downhill rides with perma-
nent brake dragging. Brake fade is a result thereof which, in extreme cases,
may lead to brake failure. Therefore, if you notice a reduction of the brak-
ing effect, stop and let the brake system cool down. Sometimes, it will be
enough to operate the front and rear brake in an alternating pattern. If that
will not suffice, stop for a couple of minutes before you set off again.
 
This brake is operated by pedalling backward. For maximum braking power,
step on one of the pedals in its rearmost position with the cranks horizontal.
With SRAM models braking power is increased when you have switched to
a lower gear beforehand.
With back-pedal brakes the chain tension has to be checked regularly .
The amount of play, midway between chainring and sprocket, should not be
more than two centimetres.
If there is any play, have the chain tightened by your bicycle dealer!
Check regularly whether the brake torque arm (torque sup-
port) is still firmly attached to the frame or fork. Use a torque
wrench and never exceed the maximum tightening torque!
You will find the prescribed values in chapter “Recommended
Tightening Torques”, directly on the components and/or in the
manuals of the component manufacturers.
Please note that there is no rear wheel braking with a slipped
chain! Risk of an accident!
a
b
c
d


6 Drive System
The drive system includes all bicycle parts that are crucial for the transmis-
sion of the pedalling power to the rear wheel , i.e. bottom bracket,
crankset-chainrings, pedals, sprockets and chain.
 
The gears on your bicycle serve to adjust your pedalling power to the terrain
you are riding on and the desired speed. A low gear (where in the case of
derailleur gears the chains runs on the small chainring and a large sprocket)
allows you to climb steep hills with moderate pedalling force. You must,
however, pedal relatively fast. High gears (large chainring, small sprocket)
are for riding downhill. Every turn of the pedals takes you many metres for-
ward at correspondingly high speed.
Derailleur gears always work according to the following principle:
Large chainring – high/heavy gear – higher transmission
Small chainring – low/easy gear – lower transmission
Large sprocket – low/easy gear – lower transmission
Small sprocket – high/heavy gear – higher transmission
Normally, the shifters are mounted as follows:
Right shifter – sprockets
Left shifter – chainrings
On level ground your pedalling speed, also referred to as cadence, should
be higher than 60 strokes a minute. Racing cyclists pedal at a rate between
90 and 110 strokes a minute on level ground. When climbing uphill, your
cadence will naturally fall off somewhat. Your pedalling should, however,
always remain fluid.
 
The bottom bracket composed of ball bearings, cups, sealing rings
and spindle normally comes as a compact unit. This is to protect the sealed
cartridge bottom bracket against penetrating dirt, water or mud. The com-
pact bottom bracket is maintenance free and delivered without play. Check
the bottom bracket bearing in the bottom bracket shell for play at regular
intervals. The crank arms may come loose in use over time. Regularly check
whether they are firmly attached to the spindle. Grab the crank and try to
jiggle it forcefully. It must be absolutely free of play.
If the crank arms have play, the crankset mounting may sustain
damage. Risk of breakage!
a
b
c
d
 
Derailleur gears are currently the most effective type of power transmission
on bicycles. With specially designed sprocket teeth, flexible chains and in-
dexed lever positions, gear shifting has become very easy. Some systems
have an indicator on the handlebars showing the currently used gear.
Modern bicycles can have up to 33 speeds. It is not advisable to use gears
which involve an extremely oblique run of the chain, as this reduces power
transmission efficiency and hastens wear of the chain. An unfavourable run
of the chain is when the smallest chainring is used with one of the two or
three outermost (smallest) sprockets  or when the largest chainring is
used with one of the inmost (largest) sprockets .
Always wear straight-cut trousers or use cycle clips or the like
to make sure your trousers do not get caught in the chain or
chainrings.
Shifting gears under load, i.e. while pedalling hard, can make
the chain slip. At the front derailleur the chain may even slip off
the chainrings and result in an accident.
At least the durability of the chain will be shortened considerably.
 


Gear shifting is initiated by actuating a shifter, a combined brake and gear lever
unit or by a short turn of the wrist with the twist grip, as the case may be.
With  shifters pressing the large shifter moves the
chain towards the larger sprockets. Pulling the small lever, located in front
of the handlebars from the rider’s viewpoint and operated with the index
finger (index finger lever) shifts the chain towards the smaller sprockets. This
means that any gear shift made by pushing the large thumb shifter on the
right produces a lower gear, while pressing the large thumb shifter on the
left moves the chain to the larger chainring, thus producing a higher gear.
The  (e.g. XTR from
model 2007 on) work according to the usual Rapidfire principle (see above).
The small index finger lever can be operated with the thumb, as well. The
chain runs to the small chainring or small sprockets. You can shift several
gears with one action. Pulling or pushing the shifting lever shortly results in a
single gear change, pulling or pushing it long leads to two gear shifts.
  derailleurs use a return spring with reversed spring
direction. Shifting with this derailleur is reversed from common derailleurs,
i.e. actuating the big shifter with the right hand leads to a higher gear.
a
b
c
d


6 Drive System
The drive system includes all bicycle parts that are crucial for the transmis-
sion of the pedalling power to the rear wheel , i.e. bottom bracket,
crankset-chainrings, pedals, sprockets and chain.
 
The gears on your bicycle serve to adjust your pedalling power to the terrain
you are riding on and the desired speed. A low gear (where in the case of
derailleur gears the chains runs on the small chainring and a large sprocket)
allows you to climb steep hills with moderate pedalling force. You must,
however, pedal relatively fast. High gears (large chainring, small sprocket)
are for riding downhill. Every turn of the pedals takes you many metres for-
ward at correspondingly high speed.
Derailleur gears always work according to the following principle:
Large chainring – high/heavy gear – higher transmission
Small chainring – low/easy gear – lower transmission
Large sprocket – low/easy gear – lower transmission
Small sprocket – high/heavy gear – higher transmission
Normally, the shifters are mounted as follows:
Right shifter – sprockets
Left shifter – chainrings
On level ground your pedalling speed, also referred to as cadence, should
be higher than 60 strokes a minute. Racing cyclists pedal at a rate between
90 and 110 strokes a minute on level ground. When climbing uphill, your
cadence will naturally fall off somewhat. Your pedalling should, however,
always remain fluid.
 
The bottom bracket composed of ball bearings, cups, sealing rings
and spindle normally comes as a compact unit. This is to protect the sealed
cartridge bottom bracket against penetrating dirt, water or mud. The com-
pact bottom bracket is maintenance free and delivered without play. Check
the bottom bracket bearing in the bottom bracket shell for play at regular
intervals. The crank arms may come loose in use over time. Regularly check
whether they are firmly attached to the spindle. Grab the crank and try to
jiggle it forcefully. It must be absolutely free of play.
If the crank arms have play, the crankset mounting may sustain
damage. Risk of breakage!
a
b
c
d
 
Derailleur gears are currently the most effective type of power transmission
on bicycles. With specially designed sprocket teeth, flexible chains and in-
dexed lever positions, gear shifting has become very easy. Some systems
have an indicator on the handlebars showing the currently used gear.
Modern bicycles can have up to 33 speeds. It is not advisable to use gears
which involve an extremely oblique run of the chain, as this reduces power
transmission efficiency and hastens wear of the chain. An unfavourable run
of the chain is when the smallest chainring is used with one of the two or
three outermost (smallest) sprockets  or when the largest chainring is
used with one of the inmost (largest) sprockets .
Always wear straight-cut trousers or use cycle clips or the like
to make sure your trousers do not get caught in the chain or
chainrings.
Shifting gears under load, i.e. while pedalling hard, can make
the chain slip. At the front derailleur the chain may even slip off
the chainrings and result in an accident.
At least the durability of the chain will be shortened considerably.
 


Gear shifting is initiated by actuating a shifter, a combined brake and gear lever
unit or by a short turn of the wrist with the twist grip, as the case may be.
With  shifters pressing the large shifter moves the
chain towards the larger sprockets. Pulling the small lever, located in front
of the handlebars from the rider’s viewpoint and operated with the index
finger (index finger lever) shifts the chain towards the smaller sprockets. This
means that any gear shift made by pushing the large thumb shifter on the
right produces a lower gear, while pressing the large thumb shifter on the
left moves the chain to the larger chainring, thus producing a higher gear.
The  (e.g. XTR from
model 2007 on) work according to the usual Rapidfire principle (see above).
The small index finger lever can be operated with the thumb, as well. The
chain runs to the small chainring or small sprockets. You can shift several
gears with one action. Pulling or pushing the shifting lever shortly results in a
single gear change, pulling or pushing it long leads to two gear shifts.
  derailleurs use a return spring with reversed spring
direction. Shifting with this derailleur is reversed from common derailleurs,
i.e. actuating the big shifter with the right hand leads to a higher gear.
a
b
c
d


With the gear and brake lever components, the
brake lever has to be pushed downward to shift to the smaller sprockets
and larger chainrings. Pulling the lever upward or actuating the small thumb
shifter located under the handlebars, will give you a larger sprocket and a
smaller chainring, both leading to a lower gear.
Pressing the large shifting lever of  located under
the handlebars with your thumb, shifts the chain to the larger chainrings and
larger sprockets. The smaller shifter, also located under the handlebars, but
a bit higher than the big one, is pushed with the thumb, too, and makes the
chain move to the smaller chainrings and smaller sprockets.
The principle of  is different . Twisting the right-hand grip to-
wards you moves the chain to a larger sprocket giving you a lower gear,
while the same movement on the left produces a higher gear by moving the
chain to the larger chainrings. The shifting direction may vary in this case,
as well.
Practise switching gears in a place free of traffic until you are
familiar with the functioning of the levers or twist grips of your
bicycle.
It is therefore crucial when switching gears to continue pedal-
ling smoothly and without too much force. Do not shift under
load, as this will shorten the durability of the chain considerably.
Furthermore, this can lead to a chain-suck, i.e. the chain can
get jammed between chain stay and chainrings. Avoid shifting
gears while pedalling with force, in particular when shifting with
the front derailleur.
Avoid gears which involve an extremely oblique run of the chain,
as this will increase wear.
 

On classic road racing bicycles the shifting levers are integrated with the
brake lever.
On a  equipped bicycle, moving the small lever
located behind the brake lever inward with your index or middle finger, shifts
the chain towards the larger sprockets. Pressing the lever inside the brake
hood with your thumb, shifts the chain to the smaller sprockets. By pressing
once you can shift up to three sprockets.
a
b
c
d
With levers , swivelling the entire brake lever in-
ward shifts the chain towards the larger sprockets. Up to three sprockets
can be shifted per tap. Moving the small lever alone that is located behind
the brake lever the chain moves towards the smaller sprockets, but only one
sprocket per tap.
 levers have only one shifting lever positioned behind
the brake lever. Tapping the lever to its end shifts the gear one to three
sprockets higher. A short tap moves the chain to the next smaller sprocket.
With  and  bar end shifters  for triathlon
and time trial use the shifting lever is pressed downward to move the chain
to the smaller sprockets to achieve a higher gear and to the smaller chain-
rings to achieve a lower gear. By pulling the shifting lever upward you can
switch to the larger sprockets and larger chainrings.
The     are located underneath the handle-
bars. By shifting the right big lever with the thumb the chain moves to larger
sprockets, i.e. in a lower gear. The smaller lever is shifted with the index
finger or thumb and switches in higher gears. By operating the big shifter
with the thumb on the left side the chain moves to the larger chainring, i.e.
to a higher gear.
With the and  swivelling the entire brake lever in-
ward, shifts the chain towards the larger sprockets. Pushing the lever inside
the brake hood with your thumb shifts the chain to the smaller sprockets.
Practise switching gears in a place free of traffic until you are
familiar with the functioning of the levers of your bicycle.
Do not shift under load, as this will shorten the durability of the
chain considerably. Furthermore, this can lead to a chain-suck,
i.e. the chain can get jammed between chain stay and chain-
rings. Avoid shifting gears while pedalling with force, in particu-
lar when shifting with the front derailleur.
Avoid gears which involve an extremely oblique run of the chain,
as this will increase wear.
a
b
c
d


With the gear and brake lever components, the
brake lever has to be pushed downward to shift to the smaller sprockets
and larger chainrings. Pulling the lever upward or actuating the small thumb
shifter located under the handlebars, will give you a larger sprocket and a
smaller chainring, both leading to a lower gear.
Pressing the large shifting lever of  located under
the handlebars with your thumb, shifts the chain to the larger chainrings and
larger sprockets. The smaller shifter, also located under the handlebars, but
a bit higher than the big one, is pushed with the thumb, too, and makes the
chain move to the smaller chainrings and smaller sprockets.
The principle of  is different . Twisting the right-hand grip to-
wards you moves the chain to a larger sprocket giving you a lower gear,
while the same movement on the left produces a higher gear by moving the
chain to the larger chainrings. The shifting direction may vary in this case,
as well.
Practise switching gears in a place free of traffic until you are
familiar with the functioning of the levers or twist grips of your
bicycle.
It is therefore crucial when switching gears to continue pedal-
ling smoothly and without too much force. Do not shift under
load, as this will shorten the durability of the chain considerably.
Furthermore, this can lead to a chain-suck, i.e. the chain can
get jammed between chain stay and chainrings. Avoid shifting
gears while pedalling with force, in particular when shifting with
the front derailleur.
Avoid gears which involve an extremely oblique run of the chain,
as this will increase wear.
 

On classic road racing bicycles the shifting levers are integrated with the
brake lever.
On a  equipped bicycle, moving the small lever
located behind the brake lever inward with your index or middle finger, shifts
the chain towards the larger sprockets. Pressing the lever inside the brake
hood with your thumb, shifts the chain to the smaller sprockets. By pressing
once you can shift up to three sprockets.
a
b
c
d
With levers , swivelling the entire brake lever in-
ward shifts the chain towards the larger sprockets. Up to three sprockets
can be shifted per tap. Moving the small lever alone that is located behind
the brake lever the chain moves towards the smaller sprockets, but only one
sprocket per tap.
 levers have only one shifting lever positioned behind
the brake lever. Tapping the lever to its end shifts the gear one to three
sprockets higher. A short tap moves the chain to the next smaller sprocket.
With  and  bar end shifters  for triathlon
and time trial use the shifting lever is pressed downward to move the chain
to the smaller sprockets to achieve a higher gear and to the smaller chain-
rings to achieve a lower gear. By pulling the shifting lever upward you can
switch to the larger sprockets and larger chainrings.
The     are located underneath the handle-
bars. By shifting the right big lever with the thumb the chain moves to larger
sprockets, i.e. in a lower gear. The smaller lever is shifted with the index
finger or thumb and switches in higher gears. By operating the big shifter
with the thumb on the left side the chain moves to the larger chainring, i.e.
to a higher gear.
With the and  swivelling the entire brake lever in-
ward, shifts the chain towards the larger sprockets. Pushing the lever inside
the brake hood with your thumb shifts the chain to the smaller sprockets.
Practise switching gears in a place free of traffic until you are
familiar with the functioning of the levers of your bicycle.
Do not shift under load, as this will shorten the durability of the
chain considerably. Furthermore, this can lead to a chain-suck,
i.e. the chain can get jammed between chain stay and chain-
rings. Avoid shifting gears while pedalling with force, in particu-
lar when shifting with the front derailleur.
Avoid gears which involve an extremely oblique run of the chain,
as this will increase wear.
a
b
c
d
48
49
6.3 Checking and Readjusting Derailleur
Gears
The derailleur gears of your bicycle were carefully adjusted by your dealer
before delivery. However, Bowden cables may stretch a little on the first
kilometres/miles, making gear shifting imprecise.
Adjusting the front and rear derailleur accurately is a job for an experienced
mechanic.
If you want to try adjusting it yourself, be sure to read the operating instruc-
tions of the manufacturer. In case you have any problems with the gears,
please contact your bicycle dealer!
6.3.1 Rear derailleur
Increase the tension of the Bowden cable by turning the adjustable cable
stop at the shifting lever (a) or the adjusting bolt through which it runs into
the rear derailleur of mountain, city, kids’ and trekking bicycles (b).
Rear derailleurs are not all equipped with an adjusting bolt!
If you have a road racing bicycle the adjustment is carried out by turning the
adjusting bolts at the right cable stop on the down tube. There is another
adjusting bolt directly at the rear derailleur.
To do so, shift to the smallest sprocket (c) and turn the clicking bolts anti-
clockwise in half turns until the cable is slightly tensioned.
After tensioning the Bowden cable check whether the chain immediately
climbs onto the next larger sprocket. To find out you either have to turn the
cranks by hand (d) or ride the bicycle and change gears.
If the chain easily climbs onto the next larger sprocket, check whether it just
as easily shifts to the small sprockets. You may need several tries.
Adjusting the front and rear derailleur accurately is a job for an
experienced mechanic. Please observe the instructions of the
gear manufacturer. If you have any problems with the gears,
contact your bicycle dealer.
Ask a helper to lift the rear wheel. By turning the cranks and
shifting through you can easily check the function.
a
b
c
d
6.3.2 Checking the Limit Stops
The limit screws are adjusted by your bicycle dealer. They do not alter their
position during normal use.
If your bicycle has tipped over or the rear derailleur received
a blow, the rear derailleur or its mount might be bent. It is ad-
visable to check its range of movement and readjust the limit
screws, if necessary, after such an incident or after mounting
new wheels on your bicycle (a).
Shift with the right shifting lever to the highest gear. The inner cable is re-
laxed and the chain running on the smallest sprocket. Look from the rear
of the bicycle at the cassette and check whether the teeth of the smallest
sprocket and the teeth of the guide pulley are all in a perfectly vertical line
(b).
If necessary, correct the position by means of the limit screws. The limit
screws on rear derailleurs are often marked “H” for high gear and “L” for low
gear (c). In this case high gear stands for high transmission ratio, i.e. with the
chain running on the smallest sprocket.
If the screws are not marked, you will have to find out by trial and error.
Turn one of the screws by counting the number of turns and watch the rear
derailleur. If it does not move, you are turning the wrong one. Turn back the
counted rotations to find its original position.
Turn the screw clockwise to shift the rear derailleur towards the wheel and
anticlockwise to shift it away from the wheel.
Continue by shifting the rear derailleur to the largest sprocket. Make sure the
rear derailleur does not collide with the spokes. When the chain runs on the
largest sprocket see whether you can shift the rear derailleur even further by
moving the shifting lever to the end of its travel. Then press the rear derailleur
further towards the spokes by hand (d). Spin the wheel. If the derailleur cage
moves towards the spokes or if the chain begins to move beyond the largest
sprocket, the derailleur movement range needs to be limited. Turn the limit
screw marked “L” clockwise until the rear derailleur is clear of the spokes.
Be sure to go on a test ride in a place free of traffic, after adjust-
ing the gears of your bicycle.
Improperly adjusted limit stops or a bent rear derailleur mount
can result in a severe damage to the bicycle and a rear wheel
blocking. Risk of an accident!
a
b
c
d
48
49
6.3 Checking and Readjusting Derailleur
Gears
The derailleur gears of your bicycle were carefully adjusted by your dealer
before delivery. However, Bowden cables may stretch a little on the first
kilometres/miles, making gear shifting imprecise.
Adjusting the front and rear derailleur accurately is a job for an experienced
mechanic.
If you want to try adjusting it yourself, be sure to read the operating instruc-
tions of the manufacturer. In case you have any problems with the gears,
please contact your bicycle dealer!
6.3.1 Rear derailleur
Increase the tension of the Bowden cable by turning the adjustable cable
stop at the shifting lever (a) or the adjusting bolt through which it runs into
the rear derailleur of mountain, city, kids’ and trekking bicycles (b).
Rear derailleurs are not all equipped with an adjusting bolt!
If you have a road racing bicycle the adjustment is carried out by turning the
adjusting bolts at the right cable stop on the down tube. There is another
adjusting bolt directly at the rear derailleur.
To do so, shift to the smallest sprocket (c) and turn the clicking bolts anti-
clockwise in half turns until the cable is slightly tensioned.
After tensioning the Bowden cable check whether the chain immediately
climbs onto the next larger sprocket. To find out you either have to turn the
cranks by hand (d) or ride the bicycle and change gears.
If the chain easily climbs onto the next larger sprocket, check whether it just
as easily shifts to the small sprockets. You may need several tries.
Adjusting the front and rear derailleur accurately is a job for an
experienced mechanic. Please observe the instructions of the
gear manufacturer. If you have any problems with the gears,
contact your bicycle dealer.
Ask a helper to lift the rear wheel. By turning the cranks and
shifting through you can easily check the function.
a
b
c
d
6.3.2 Checking the Limit Stops
The limit screws are adjusted by your bicycle dealer. They do not alter their
position during normal use.
If your bicycle has tipped over or the rear derailleur received
a blow, the rear derailleur or its mount might be bent. It is ad-
visable to check its range of movement and readjust the limit
screws, if necessary, after such an incident or after mounting
new wheels on your bicycle (a).
Shift with the right shifting lever to the highest gear. The inner cable is re-
laxed and the chain running on the smallest sprocket. Look from the rear
of the bicycle at the cassette and check whether the teeth of the smallest
sprocket and the teeth of the guide pulley are all in a perfectly vertical line
(b).
If necessary, correct the position by means of the limit screws. The limit
screws on rear derailleurs are often marked “H” for high gear and “L” for low
gear (c). In this case high gear stands for high transmission ratio, i.e. with the
chain running on the smallest sprocket.
If the screws are not marked, you will have to find out by trial and error.
Turn one of the screws by counting the number of turns and watch the rear
derailleur. If it does not move, you are turning the wrong one. Turn back the
counted rotations to find its original position.
Turn the screw clockwise to shift the rear derailleur towards the wheel and
anticlockwise to shift it away from the wheel.
Continue by shifting the rear derailleur to the largest sprocket. Make sure the
rear derailleur does not collide with the spokes. When the chain runs on the
largest sprocket see whether you can shift the rear derailleur even further by
moving the shifting lever to the end of its travel. Then press the rear derailleur
further towards the spokes by hand (d). Spin the wheel. If the derailleur cage
moves towards the spokes or if the chain begins to move beyond the largest
sprocket, the derailleur movement range needs to be limited. Turn the limit
screw marked “L” clockwise until the rear derailleur is clear of the spokes.
Be sure to go on a test ride in a place free of traffic, after adjust-
ing the gears of your bicycle.
Improperly adjusted limit stops or a bent rear derailleur mount
can result in a severe damage to the bicycle and a rear wheel
blocking. Risk of an accident!
a
b
c
d


 
The range within which the front derailleur keeps the chain on the chain-
ring without itself touching the chain is very small. This adjustment is a job
best left to your bicycle dealer.
It is often better to let the chain drag slightly on the derailleur than to risk
having the chain fall off the chainring, which would interrupt the power train.
The front derailleur, just like the rear derailleur, has limit screws marked “H”
and “L” that reduce the movement range .
As with the rear derailleur, the cable of the front derailleur is subject to
lengthening and hence to reduced precision in gear changing.
If necessary, shift to the small chainring and increase the tension of the
Bowden cable by turning the adjusting bolt through which it passes at the
entry to the gear shifter or at the frame under the down tube .
Always check after an accident whether the guide plates of the
front derailleur are still parallel to the chainrings!
a
b
c
d
Adjusting the front derailleur is a very delicate job. Improper
adjustment can cause the chain to jump off, thus interrupting
the power train. This can cause an accident!
Be sure to go on a test ride in a place free of traffic, after adjust-
ing the gears of your bicycle.
 
Two advantages of multi-speed hubs are their enclosed design and the
fact that you can switch through all gears by the same lever. Besides this,
the chain lasts a lot longer than with derailleur gears, provided it is serviced
regularly.
Multi-speed or internal gear hubs from  are available with a free-
wheel, i.e. the free-wheel hub is combined with a hand activated V- or roller
brake, or with an integrated drum brake, also referred to as back-pedal
brake. The latter is operated by pedalling backward. The best braking power
is achieved with the pedals on a horizontal level.
Multi-speed or internal gear hubs from  are available with a free-
wheel, i.e. the free-wheel hub is combined with a hand activated V- or drum
brake, or with an integrated drum brake, also referred to as back-pedal
brake. The latter is operated by pedalling backward. The best braking power
is achieved with the pedals on a horizontal level and in low gears.
 speedhubs are available with a free-wheel, i.e. the free-wheel hub is
combined with a hand activated rim brake (mechanical or hydraulic), or with
a disc brake (mechanical or hydraulic).
 make gear shifting smooth, i.e. you always ride in the ap-
propriate gear. With NuVinci hubs power transmission is ensured by balls.
 

Internal gear hubs are equipped with a twist grip or thumb shifter for chang-
ing gears as well as with an indicator showing the current gear. According
to the hub manufacturer you can either continue pedalling without load on
the pedals or freewheel. Read the operating instructions of the gear manu-
facturer. If you are in doubt or if you have any questions, please contact
your bicycle dealer! In any case, make sure changing gears makes as little
noise as possible.
 twist grip shifters : To change gears, twist the grip, stop pedalling
for a moment and do not move the pedals.  also allows gear
shifting during pedalling and in stationary.
Twist grip shifters for  and  : Continue
pedalling during shifting. However, to ensure a jerk-free and low-noise gear
shifting, be sure to reduce your pedalling power.
a
b
c
d


 
The range within which the front derailleur keeps the chain on the chain-
ring without itself touching the chain is very small. This adjustment is a job
best left to your bicycle dealer.
It is often better to let the chain drag slightly on the derailleur than to risk
having the chain fall off the chainring, which would interrupt the power train.
The front derailleur, just like the rear derailleur, has limit screws marked “H”
and “L” that reduce the movement range .
As with the rear derailleur, the cable of the front derailleur is subject to
lengthening and hence to reduced precision in gear changing.
If necessary, shift to the small chainring and increase the tension of the
Bowden cable by turning the adjusting bolt through which it passes at the
entry to the gear shifter or at the frame under the down tube .
Always check after an accident whether the guide plates of the
front derailleur are still parallel to the chainrings!
a
b
c
d
Adjusting the front derailleur is a very delicate job. Improper
adjustment can cause the chain to jump off, thus interrupting
the power train. This can cause an accident!
Be sure to go on a test ride in a place free of traffic, after adjust-
ing the gears of your bicycle.
 
Two advantages of multi-speed hubs are their enclosed design and the
fact that you can switch through all gears by the same lever. Besides this,
the chain lasts a lot longer than with derailleur gears, provided it is serviced
regularly.
Multi-speed or internal gear hubs from  are available with a free-
wheel, i.e. the free-wheel hub is combined with a hand activated V- or roller
brake, or with an integrated drum brake, also referred to as back-pedal
brake. The latter is operated by pedalling backward. The best braking power
is achieved with the pedals on a horizontal level.
Multi-speed or internal gear hubs from  are available with a free-
wheel, i.e. the free-wheel hub is combined with a hand activated V- or drum
brake, or with an integrated drum brake, also referred to as back-pedal
brake. The latter is operated by pedalling backward. The best braking power
is achieved with the pedals on a horizontal level and in low gears.
 speedhubs are available with a free-wheel, i.e. the free-wheel hub is
combined with a hand activated rim brake (mechanical or hydraulic), or with
a disc brake (mechanical or hydraulic).
 make gear shifting smooth, i.e. you always ride in the ap-
propriate gear. With NuVinci hubs power transmission is ensured by balls.
 

Internal gear hubs are equipped with a twist grip or thumb shifter for chang-
ing gears as well as with an indicator showing the current gear. According
to the hub manufacturer you can either continue pedalling without load on
the pedals or freewheel. Read the operating instructions of the gear manu-
facturer. If you are in doubt or if you have any questions, please contact
your bicycle dealer! In any case, make sure changing gears makes as little
noise as possible.
 twist grip shifters : To change gears, twist the grip, stop pedalling
for a moment and do not move the pedals.  also allows gear
shifting during pedalling and in stationary.
Twist grip shifters for  and  : Continue
pedalling during shifting. However, to ensure a jerk-free and low-noise gear
shifting, be sure to reduce your pedalling power.
a
b
c
d


Twist grip shifter for : To change gears, twist the grip, stop
pedalling for a moment and do not apply any load to the pedals. You need
not stop to do so. Smooth gear shifting is best with the pedals on a vertical
line, i.e. one above the other.
Practise switching gears in a place free of traffic until you are
familiar with the functioning of the shift levers or twist grips of
your bicycle.
 
Multi-speed hubs need not be adjusted very often. The adjusting mecha-
nism is mainly located at the hub or at the gear box. There are two (red)
marks which have to be brought into alignment by adjusting the cable di-
rectly at the lever or twist grip (see adjustment of the derailleur gear). Care-
fully read the operating instructions of the gear manufacturer. If you are in
doubt or if you have any questions, please contact your bicycle dealer!
Regularly check the reliable fit of the bolted connection of the
hub and of the torque arm to the frame .
If you have a Rohloff speed hub, be sure to make an oil change
annually or after 5,000 km (3,100 miles). If you are in doubt or
if you have any questions, please contact your bicycle dealer!
 
These gear systems combine the properties of both gear systems. There
is one shifter that is intended to switch the speed hub, whereas a second
shifter operates either the front derailleur of the derailleur gear or the rear
derailleur.
The  is available with a free-wheel only, i.e.
the free-wheel hub is combined with a hand activated V- or roller brake.
The  is also available with a free-wheel only, i.e.
the free-wheel hub is combined with a hand activated V-, disc or drum
brake.
The  is available with a free-wheel only, i.e. the
free-wheel hub is combined with a hand activated V- and disc brake.
Make yourself familiar with your gear system and the brakes in
a place free of traffic.
The proper adjustment of the derailleur-hub gear system is a job
best left to a skilled mechanic. Before doing any adjusting, be
sure to read the instructions of the gear manufacturer.
a
b
c
d
 

With a you can shift through the gears of the
speed hub with the shifter and lever on the left side.
The thumb of your right hand switches the 8-speed derailleur gear. On both
sides the big shifters are for the higher (heavier) gears.
With the  both shifters are with one hand. The slide
shifter is operated with the thumb to choose a primary transmission for the
terrain you are riding on. To change this gear, stop pedalling for a moment
without moving the pedals.
The SRAM Dual Drive 27 speed is also available with two sepa-
rate trigger shifters!
With the shifting the big thumb shifter on the left lever moves the
chain to the larger chainring. The small index finger lever moves the chain
to the small chainring.
On the right lever shifting the big thumb shifter leads to a higher gear, where-
as shifting the small shifter makes for a lower gear.
The  is to switch through the gears of the derailleur gear. To do so,
please continue pedalling with reduced power.
 
The speed hub of the combined gear system is adjusted, as described in
chapter , the derailleur gears as
described in chapters and.
Regularly check the reliable fit of the bolted connection of the
hub torque arm to the frame .

The SRAM Hammerschmidt allows two different gear ratios.
Shifting is performed with a trigger shifter on the left side. Pressing the big
thumb shifter makes for a lower gear ratio.
a
b
c
d


Twist grip shifter for : To change gears, twist the grip, stop
pedalling for a moment and do not apply any load to the pedals. You need
not stop to do so. Smooth gear shifting is best with the pedals on a vertical
line, i.e. one above the other.
Practise switching gears in a place free of traffic until you are
familiar with the functioning of the shift levers or twist grips of
your bicycle.
 
Multi-speed hubs need not be adjusted very often. The adjusting mecha-
nism is mainly located at the hub or at the gear box. There are two (red)
marks which have to be brought into alignment by adjusting the cable di-
rectly at the lever or twist grip (see adjustment of the derailleur gear). Care-
fully read the operating instructions of the gear manufacturer. If you are in
doubt or if you have any questions, please contact your bicycle dealer!
Regularly check the reliable fit of the bolted connection of the
hub and of the torque arm to the frame .
If you have a Rohloff speed hub, be sure to make an oil change
annually or after 5,000 km (3,100 miles). If you are in doubt or
if you have any questions, please contact your bicycle dealer!
 
These gear systems combine the properties of both gear systems. There
is one shifter that is intended to switch the speed hub, whereas a second
shifter operates either the front derailleur of the derailleur gear or the rear
derailleur.
The  is available with a free-wheel only, i.e.
the free-wheel hub is combined with a hand activated V- or roller brake.
The  is also available with a free-wheel only, i.e.
the free-wheel hub is combined with a hand activated V-, disc or drum
brake.
The  is available with a free-wheel only, i.e. the
free-wheel hub is combined with a hand activated V- and disc brake.
Make yourself familiar with your gear system and the brakes in
a place free of traffic.
The proper adjustment of the derailleur-hub gear system is a job
best left to a skilled mechanic. Before doing any adjusting, be
sure to read the instructions of the gear manufacturer.
a
b
c
d
 

With a you can shift through the gears of the
speed hub with the shifter and lever on the left side.
The thumb of your right hand switches the 8-speed derailleur gear. On both
sides the big shifters are for the higher (heavier) gears.
With the  both shifters are with one hand. The slide
shifter is operated with the thumb to choose a primary transmission for the
terrain you are riding on. To change this gear, stop pedalling for a moment
without moving the pedals.
The SRAM Dual Drive 27 speed is also available with two sepa-
rate trigger shifters!
With the shifting the big thumb shifter on the left lever moves the
chain to the larger chainring. The small index finger lever moves the chain
to the small chainring.
On the right lever shifting the big thumb shifter leads to a higher gear, where-
as shifting the small shifter makes for a lower gear.
The  is to switch through the gears of the derailleur gear. To do so,
please continue pedalling with reduced power.
 
The speed hub of the combined gear system is adjusted, as described in
chapter , the derailleur gears as
described in chapters and.
Regularly check the reliable fit of the bolted connection of the
hub torque arm to the frame .

The SRAM Hammerschmidt allows two different gear ratios.
Shifting is performed with a trigger shifter on the left side. Pressing the big
thumb shifter makes for a lower gear ratio.
a
b
c
d
54
55
6.7 Chain
6.7.1 Chain Maintenance
Regular and correct lubrication of your bicycles chain makes for enjoyable
riding and prolongs its service life. It is not the quantity, but the distribution
and regular application of lubricant that counts.
Clean the dirt and oil off your chain with an oily rag from time to time (a).
Special degreasers are not necessary.
Having cleaned the chain as thoroughly as possible, apply chain oil, wax or
grease to the chain links (b). To lubricate the chain, drip the lubricant onto
the rollers of the lower run of the chain while you turn the crank. Once this
is done, turn the cranks a few more times; then let the chain rest for a few
minutes so that the lubricant can disperse.
Finally wipe off excess lubricant with a rag so that it does not spatter around
during riding or can collect road dirt.
For the sake of the environment, use biodegradable lubricants
only. Bear in mind that some of the lubricant can end up on the
ground, especially in wet conditions.
Make sure the braking surfaces of the rims, the rotors and the
brake pads remain clear of lubricants, as the brakes will fail oth-
erwise.
6.7.2 Chain Wear
Although the chain is one of the parts of a bicycle that wears, there are still
ways for you to prolong its service life. Make sure the chain is lubricated
regularly, especially after riding in the rain. Try to only use gears which run
the chain in the straightest line between the sprockets and chainrings and
get in the habit of high cadence pedalling.
Chains of bicycles with derailleur gears are worn out after approx. 800 to
2,500 km (500 to 1,550 miles) or 40 to 125 hours of use. Chains of road rac-
ing bicycles have reached the end of their service life after approx. 2,000 to
4,500 km (1,200 to 2,800 miles). Heavily stretched chains impair the operation
of derailleur gears. Cycling with a worn-out chain also accelerates the wear
of the sprockets and chainrings. Replacing these components is relatively
expensive compared with the costs of a new chain. It is therefore advisable to
check the condition of the chain at regular intervals.
To check chain wear, run the chain on the largest chainring. Take the chain
between your thumb and index finger and try to lift it off the teeth. If you can
lift it off clearly, it is stretched and should be replaced (c).
Your bicycle dealer has accurate measuring instruments for precise chain
inspection (d). Replacing the chain should ideally be left to an expert, as this
requires special tools. In addition, you need to select a chain matching your
gear system.
An improperly joined or heavily worn chain can break and may
cause an accident.
a
b
c
d
6.7.3 Adjusting the Chain Tension of Single Speed
Bicycles and Multi-Speed Hubs
The chain tension of single speed bicycles has to be checked and re-ten-
sioned, if necessary, after approx. 1,000 km (620 miles) or 50 hours of use.
The amount of play, midway between chainring and sprocket, should not be
more than two centimetres (a).
Release the rear wheel axle bolts or nuts with an appropriate tool.
Adjust the chain tension by pulling the rear wheel to the rear or by releas-
ing/tightening the chain tensioner. The chain tension is correct when the
amount of vertical play midway between chainring and sprocket does not
exceed two centimetres with a tightened rear wheel. Check the vertical play
in several areas. Furthermore, you should be able to rotate the crank without
resistance.
Adjust the rear wheel in the centre of the rear drop-outs by using the chain
adjuster as limit stop.
Tighten the rear wheel axle nuts with a torque wrench.
The chain adjusters (b) only serve to tension the chain and to
pre-adjust the rear wheel. They are not designed to fix the wheel
in its position or to avoid any falling out.
a
b
54
55
6.7 Chain
6.7.1 Chain Maintenance
Regular and correct lubrication of your bicycles chain makes for enjoyable
riding and prolongs its service life. It is not the quantity, but the distribution
and regular application of lubricant that counts.
Clean the dirt and oil off your chain with an oily rag from time to time (a).
Special degreasers are not necessary.
Having cleaned the chain as thoroughly as possible, apply chain oil, wax or
grease to the chain links (b). To lubricate the chain, drip the lubricant onto
the rollers of the lower run of the chain while you turn the crank. Once this
is done, turn the cranks a few more times; then let the chain rest for a few
minutes so that the lubricant can disperse.
Finally wipe off excess lubricant with a rag so that it does not spatter around
during riding or can collect road dirt.
For the sake of the environment, use biodegradable lubricants
only. Bear in mind that some of the lubricant can end up on the
ground, especially in wet conditions.
Make sure the braking surfaces of the rims, the rotors and the
brake pads remain clear of lubricants, as the brakes will fail oth-
erwise.
6.7.2 Chain Wear
Although the chain is one of the parts of a bicycle that wears, there are still
ways for you to prolong its service life. Make sure the chain is lubricated
regularly, especially after riding in the rain. Try to only use gears which run
the chain in the straightest line between the sprockets and chainrings and
get in the habit of high cadence pedalling.
Chains of bicycles with derailleur gears are worn out after approx. 800 to
2,500 km (500 to 1,550 miles) or 40 to 125 hours of use. Chains of road rac-
ing bicycles have reached the end of their service life after approx. 2,000 to
4,500 km (1,200 to 2,800 miles). Heavily stretched chains impair the operation
of derailleur gears. Cycling with a worn-out chain also accelerates the wear
of the sprockets and chainrings. Replacing these components is relatively
expensive compared with the costs of a new chain. It is therefore advisable to
check the condition of the chain at regular intervals.
To check chain wear, run the chain on the largest chainring. Take the chain
between your thumb and index finger and try to lift it off the teeth. If you can
lift it off clearly, it is stretched and should be replaced (c).
Your bicycle dealer has accurate measuring instruments for precise chain
inspection (d). Replacing the chain should ideally be left to an expert, as this
requires special tools. In addition, you need to select a chain matching your
gear system.
An improperly joined or heavily worn chain can break and may
cause an accident.
a
b
c
d
6.7.3 Adjusting the Chain Tension of Single Speed
Bicycles and Multi-Speed Hubs
The chain tension of single speed bicycles has to be checked and re-ten-
sioned, if necessary, after approx. 1,000 km (620 miles) or 50 hours of use.
The amount of play, midway between chainring and sprocket, should not be
more than two centimetres (a).
Release the rear wheel axle bolts or nuts with an appropriate tool.
Adjust the chain tension by pulling the rear wheel to the rear or by releas-
ing/tightening the chain tensioner. The chain tension is correct when the
amount of vertical play midway between chainring and sprocket does not
exceed two centimetres with a tightened rear wheel. Check the vertical play
in several areas. Furthermore, you should be able to rotate the crank without
resistance.
Adjust the rear wheel in the centre of the rear drop-outs by using the chain
adjuster as limit stop.
Tighten the rear wheel axle nuts with a torque wrench.
The chain adjusters (b) only serve to tension the chain and to
pre-adjust the rear wheel. They are not designed to fix the wheel
in its position or to avoid any falling out.
a
b


7 Wheels and Tyres
The wheel consists of the hub, the spokes and the rim. The tyre is mounted
onto the rim so that it encases the inner tube. There is a rim tape running
around the trough of the rim to protect the sensitive inner tube against the
spoke nipples and the edges of the rim trough, which are often sharp .
The wheels are subjected to considerable stress through the weight of the
rider and any carried baggage as well as through bumpy road surfaces and
terrain. Although wheels are manufactured with great care and delivered
accurately trued, this does not prevent the spokes and nipples from losing
a little tension on the first kilometres/miles. Ask your bicycle dealer to check
and true up the wheels after you have bedded them in over about 100 to
300 kilometres (60 to 180 miles) or 5 to 15 hours of use.
Check the wheels regularly, especially after bedding them in. It will rarely be
necessary to tighten the spokes .
 

The tyres should provide the friction needed for carrying the bicycle forward
on the riding surface. At the same time they should grant minimum rolling
friction and enhance the rider’s comfort by absorbing small shocks. Both
the rolling friction and the grip depend on the nature of the tyre carcass, the
rubber compound and the type of tyre profile. Your bicycle dealer will be
pleased to help you choose from the numerous types of tyres .
If you want to replace a tyre, you need to consider the sizing system and the
actual size of the old tyre. The latter is specified in two different units on the
side of the tyre. One of the sizes is the standardised size in millimetres which
is more precise, e.g. the number sequence 52-559 means that the tyre is
52 mm wide when fully inflated and has an inner diameter of 559 millimetres.
The other size is indicated in inches (26x2.35).
Mounting a new tyre of another dimension might possibly cause
the tip of your shoe to touch the front wheel while steering.
During compression of the suspension system a wheel can get
jammed, as well. Risk of an accident!
a
b
c
d
psi bar psi bar
30 2,1 90 6,2
40 2,8 100 6,9
50 3,5 110 7,6
60 4,1 120 8,3
70 4,8 130 9,0
80 5,5 140 9,7
Tyres have to be inflated to the correct air pressure. Properly inflated tyres
are also more resistant to punctures. An insufficiently inflated inner tube can
easily get pinched (“snakebite”), when it goes over a sharp kerb.
The air pressure recommended by the manufacturer is given on the side of
the tyre or on the type label . The lower of the two pressure specifications
makes for better cushioning for lightweight riders and is therefore best for
cycling on a rough surface. Rolling resistance decreases with growing pres-
sure, but so does comfort. Highly inflated tyres are therefore most suitable
for heavy riders and for riding on tarred roads.
Inflation pressure is often given in the old system of units, i.e. in psi (pounds
per square inch). The table below  gives the most common pressure
values in terms of both systems.
Tyres allowing an inflation pressure of 5 bars or more have to
be mounted on hook bead rims, identifiable by the designation
“C“. If you are in doubt or if you have any questions, please
contact your bicycle dealer!
The tyre and rim alone are not able to hold the air. Therefore, an inner tube
has to be placed inside the tyre to retain the air pressure.
This does not apply to the following tyre systems:
· The tubeless wheel/tyre systems (tubeless/UST-tyres/NoTubes sys-
tems). In this case, the rim and the tyre hold the air without an inner tube.
For more information read the chapter on UST tyres further below or the
respective instructions, before doing any work on such kind of tyres.
· Tubular tyres for road racing bicycles. This tyre provides an airtight de-
sign without inner tube. In case of a puncture there is no inner tube to be
removed or repaired. This particular design requires special rims without
rim flanges.
If you have a bicycle with tubeless tyres, please read the in-
structions of the tyre/rim manufacturer.
Treat your tyres well, in particular avoid sharp edges where pos-
sible! Never inflate your tyres beyond the maximum permissible
pressure, otherwise one of them might burst or come off the rim
during the ride. Risk of an accident!
There are three valve types in general use on today’s bicycles:
1. Sclaverand or Presta valves : This type is nowadays used on almost all
types of bicycles. It is designed to withstand extremely high pressures.
2. Schrader or car valve : This is an adapted car tyre valve which is
mainly used on mountain bikes.
3. Dunlop or Woods valve, the usual valve.
These three valve types are fitted with a plastic cap to protect them from
dirt.
a
b
c
d


7 Wheels and Tyres
The wheel consists of the hub, the spokes and the rim. The tyre is mounted
onto the rim so that it encases the inner tube. There is a rim tape running
around the trough of the rim to protect the sensitive inner tube against the
spoke nipples and the edges of the rim trough, which are often sharp .
The wheels are subjected to considerable stress through the weight of the
rider and any carried baggage as well as through bumpy road surfaces and
terrain. Although wheels are manufactured with great care and delivered
accurately trued, this does not prevent the spokes and nipples from losing
a little tension on the first kilometres/miles. Ask your bicycle dealer to check
and true up the wheels after you have bedded them in over about 100 to
300 kilometres (60 to 180 miles) or 5 to 15 hours of use.
Check the wheels regularly, especially after bedding them in. It will rarely be
necessary to tighten the spokes .
 

The tyres should provide the friction needed for carrying the bicycle forward
on the riding surface. At the same time they should grant minimum rolling
friction and enhance the rider’s comfort by absorbing small shocks. Both
the rolling friction and the grip depend on the nature of the tyre carcass, the
rubber compound and the type of tyre profile. Your bicycle dealer will be
pleased to help you choose from the numerous types of tyres .
If you want to replace a tyre, you need to consider the sizing system and the
actual size of the old tyre. The latter is specified in two different units on the
side of the tyre. One of the sizes is the standardised size in millimetres which
is more precise, e.g. the number sequence 52-559 means that the tyre is
52 mm wide when fully inflated and has an inner diameter of 559 millimetres.
The other size is indicated in inches (26x2.35).
Mounting a new tyre of another dimension might possibly cause
the tip of your shoe to touch the front wheel while steering.
During compression of the suspension system a wheel can get
jammed, as well. Risk of an accident!
a
b
c
d
psi bar psi bar
30 2,1 90 6,2
40 2,8 100 6,9
50 3,5 110 7,6
60 4,1 120 8,3
70 4,8 130 9,0
80 5,5 140 9,7
Tyres have to be inflated to the correct air pressure. Properly inflated tyres
are also more resistant to punctures. An insufficiently inflated inner tube can
easily get pinched (“snakebite”), when it goes over a sharp kerb.
The air pressure recommended by the manufacturer is given on the side of
the tyre or on the type label . The lower of the two pressure specifications
makes for better cushioning for lightweight riders and is therefore best for
cycling on a rough surface. Rolling resistance decreases with growing pres-
sure, but so does comfort. Highly inflated tyres are therefore most suitable
for heavy riders and for riding on tarred roads.
Inflation pressure is often given in the old system of units, i.e. in psi (pounds
per square inch). The table below  gives the most common pressure
values in terms of both systems.
Tyres allowing an inflation pressure of 5 bars or more have to
be mounted on hook bead rims, identifiable by the designation
“C“. If you are in doubt or if you have any questions, please
contact your bicycle dealer!
The tyre and rim alone are not able to hold the air. Therefore, an inner tube
has to be placed inside the tyre to retain the air pressure.
This does not apply to the following tyre systems:
· The tubeless wheel/tyre systems (tubeless/UST-tyres/NoTubes sys-
tems). In this case, the rim and the tyre hold the air without an inner tube.
For more information read the chapter on UST tyres further below or the
respective instructions, before doing any work on such kind of tyres.
· Tubular tyres for road racing bicycles. This tyre provides an airtight de-
sign without inner tube. In case of a puncture there is no inner tube to be
removed or repaired. This particular design requires special rims without
rim flanges.
If you have a bicycle with tubeless tyres, please read the in-
structions of the tyre/rim manufacturer.
Treat your tyres well, in particular avoid sharp edges where pos-
sible! Never inflate your tyres beyond the maximum permissible
pressure, otherwise one of them might burst or come off the rim
during the ride. Risk of an accident!
There are three valve types in general use on today’s bicycles:
1. Sclaverand or Presta valves : This type is nowadays used on almost all
types of bicycles. It is designed to withstand extremely high pressures.
2. Schrader or car valve : This is an adapted car tyre valve which is
mainly used on mountain bikes.
3. Dunlop or Woods valve, the usual valve.
These three valve types are fitted with a plastic cap to protect them from
dirt.
a
b
c
d


The car valve can be inflated with a suitable pump directly after removing
the protective cap.
With Presta valves you first have to undo the small knurled nut a little and de-
press it carefully until air starts to escape . Check the nut is tightened and
seated in its stem, otherwise air may slowly leak out. Tyres with car valves
can conveniently be inflated at car filling stations with a compressed air dis-
penser. The same applies to Presta valves fitted with a special adapter. A
compressed air dispenser must be used very carefully as you may otherwise
overinflate the tyre and make it burst. To let out air, press the needle in the
centre of the car valve or the knurled nut of the Presta valve using e.g. a
spanner/key. Hand pumps are often unsuitable for inflating tyres to high
pressures. A better choice is a foot-operated or a track pump equipped with
a pressure gauge .
Always ride your bicycle with the prescribed tyre pressure and
check the pressure at regular intervals, at least once a week.
Replace tyres with a worn tread or with brittle or frayed sides. Dampness
and dirt penetrating the tyre can cause damage to its inner structure. The
inner tube might burst. 
Observe the maximum pressure value of the rim. The pressure
is dependent on the tyre width! You will find the values in the
enclosed manuals of the rim manufacturers.
 
To obtain true running of the wheel, the tension exerted by the spokes has
to be distributed evenly around the rim . If the tension of a single spoke
changes, e.g. as a result of riding fast over a kerb or of a loose nipple, the
tensile forces acting on the rim become unbalanced and the wheel will no
longer run true.
The functioning of your bicycle may even be impaired before you notice the
wobbling appearance of a wheel that has gone out of true.
With rim brakes the sides of the rims also serve as braking surfaces. An un-
true wheel can impair your braking power. It is therefore advisable to check
the wheels for trueness from time to time. For this purpose lift the wheel off
the ground and spin it with your hand. Watch the gap between the rim and
the brake pads. If the gap varies by more than a millimetre, you should ask
an expert to true up the wheel .
Do not ride with untrue wheels. In the case of extreme side-to-
side wobbles, the brake pads of rim brakes can miss the rim and
get caught in the spokes! This normally instantly jams the wheel
and throws you off your bicycle.
Loose spokes must be tightened at once. Otherwise the load on
the other spokes and the rim will increase.
Truing (retruing) wheels is a difficult job which you should defi-
nitely leave to your bicycle dealer!
a
b
c
d
 
The wheels are attached to the frame at the hub axles. Each axle is clamped
tight in the drop-outs by means of a quick-release.
Quick-releases require no tools at all. Just release the lever , unscrew it a
few turns, if necessary, and take out the wheel (see chapter 
).
However, a thief will find this just as easy to do! As an anti-theft measure you
can replace the quick-releases by special locks. They can only be opened
and closed with a special, coded key or an Allen key .
Never ride a bicycle without having checked first whether the
wheels are securely fastened! A wheel that comes loose during
riding is very likely to cause an accident!
If your bicycle is equipped with quick-releases, be sure to lock
it to an immovable object together with the wheels when you
leave it outside.
 
There is a wide range of different thru axle systems currently available.
Some of them are fastened with quick-releases, whereas others require
special tools for assembly or disassembly.
Check the fastening after one to two hours of use and then every 20 hours
of use.
More and more mountain bikes are fitted with thru axle systems.
For more information read chapter “How to Use Quick-Releas-
es and Thru Axles”.
Always observe the enclosed instructions of the fork manufac-
turer.
a
b
c
d


The car valve can be inflated with a suitable pump directly after removing
the protective cap.
With Presta valves you first have to undo the small knurled nut a little and de-
press it carefully until air starts to escape . Check the nut is tightened and
seated in its stem, otherwise air may slowly leak out. Tyres with car valves
can conveniently be inflated at car filling stations with a compressed air dis-
penser. The same applies to Presta valves fitted with a special adapter. A
compressed air dispenser must be used very carefully as you may otherwise
overinflate the tyre and make it burst. To let out air, press the needle in the
centre of the car valve or the knurled nut of the Presta valve using e.g. a
spanner/key. Hand pumps are often unsuitable for inflating tyres to high
pressures. A better choice is a foot-operated or a track pump equipped with
a pressure gauge .
Always ride your bicycle with the prescribed tyre pressure and
check the pressure at regular intervals, at least once a week.
Replace tyres with a worn tread or with brittle or frayed sides. Dampness
and dirt penetrating the tyre can cause damage to its inner structure. The
inner tube might burst. 
Observe the maximum pressure value of the rim. The pressure
is dependent on the tyre width! You will find the values in the
enclosed manuals of the rim manufacturers.
 
To obtain true running of the wheel, the tension exerted by the spokes has
to be distributed evenly around the rim . If the tension of a single spoke
changes, e.g. as a result of riding fast over a kerb or of a loose nipple, the
tensile forces acting on the rim become unbalanced and the wheel will no
longer run true.
The functioning of your bicycle may even be impaired before you notice the
wobbling appearance of a wheel that has gone out of true.
With rim brakes the sides of the rims also serve as braking surfaces. An un-
true wheel can impair your braking power. It is therefore advisable to check
the wheels for trueness from time to time. For this purpose lift the wheel off
the ground and spin it with your hand. Watch the gap between the rim and
the brake pads. If the gap varies by more than a millimetre, you should ask
an expert to true up the wheel .
Do not ride with untrue wheels. In the case of extreme side-to-
side wobbles, the brake pads of rim brakes can miss the rim and
get caught in the spokes! This normally instantly jams the wheel
and throws you off your bicycle.
Loose spokes must be tightened at once. Otherwise the load on
the other spokes and the rim will increase.
Truing (retruing) wheels is a difficult job which you should defi-
nitely leave to your bicycle dealer!
a
b
c
d
 
The wheels are attached to the frame at the hub axles. Each axle is clamped
tight in the drop-outs by means of a quick-release.
Quick-releases require no tools at all. Just release the lever , unscrew it a
few turns, if necessary, and take out the wheel (see chapter 
).
However, a thief will find this just as easy to do! As an anti-theft measure you
can replace the quick-releases by special locks. They can only be opened
and closed with a special, coded key or an Allen key .
Never ride a bicycle without having checked first whether the
wheels are securely fastened! A wheel that comes loose during
riding is very likely to cause an accident!
If your bicycle is equipped with quick-releases, be sure to lock
it to an immovable object together with the wheels when you
leave it outside.
 
There is a wide range of different thru axle systems currently available.
Some of them are fastened with quick-releases, whereas others require
special tools for assembly or disassembly.
Check the fastening after one to two hours of use and then every 20 hours
of use.
More and more mountain bikes are fitted with thru axle systems.
For more information read chapter “How to Use Quick-Releas-
es and Thru Axles”.
Always observe the enclosed instructions of the fork manufac-
turer.
a
b
c
d


 
Flat tyres are the most common cause of puncture during cycling. However,
as long as you have the necessary tools for changing tyres and inner tubes
and a spare tube or a repair kit, this need not mean the end of your cycle
ride. For bicycles with quick-releases all you need in addition are two tyre
levers and a pump .
Be sure to read chapters “Wheel Mounting” and“How to Use
Quick-Releases and Thru Axles” before wheel removal. If you
are in doubt or if you have any questions, please contact your
bicycle dealer!
 

Open the release lever of the brake (Shimano, SRAM) or shift the bolt
in the gear/brake lever at the handlebar (Campagnolo). If your bicycle has
derailleur gears, shift to the smallest sprocket. This shifts the rear derailleur
right to the outside where it does not interfere with the removal of the wheel.


If your bicycle has  (cantilever or V-brakes) you first have to un-
hook the brake cable from the brake arm. To do this, grip the brake with
one hand and press the brake pads and arms together. In this position it
should be easy to disengage the usually barrel shaped nipple or, in the case
of V-brakes, the outer cable.
If your bicycle has  from Magura, unlock its quick-
release on one side of the brake and take it off the mounting bolt.
If your bicycle has  and , loosen
the torque arm supporting the drive and braking force on the frame. Further-
more, you need to disconnect the shifting cables and the clickbox respec-
tively before removing the wheel.
If you have (hydraulic and mechanical), you should first check
the exact position and condition of the brake pads and/or wear indicators
(ear or nose-shaped metal protrusions) . In this way you will be able to tell
after the removal whether the brake pads are still in their correct position.
Read the brake manufacturer’s instructions!
Do not pull the (disc) brake lever with a removed wheel and
make sure to mount the safety locks when removing the wheel.
a
b
c
d
Rotors can become hot, so let them cool down before remov-
ing a wheel.
Please read the operating instructions of the brake and the gear
manufacturer.
If you have derailleur gears, you should shift the chain to the smallest
sprocket before removing the rear wheel. This shifts the rear derailleur right
to the outside where it does not interfere with the removal of the wheel.
Open the quick-release, as described in chapter 

If you cannot remove the wheel after releasing the lever, this is due to the
drop-out safety tabs. They come as metal catches which engage with re-
cesses in the drop outs. Just release the quick-release adjusting nut a little
and slip the wheel past the tabs.
You will find it easier to remove the rear wheel, when you pull the rear derail-
leur slightly backwards . Lift the bicycle off the ground and give the wheel
a gentle tap with your hand so that it drops out.
If you have a bicycle with thru axles, please read chapter   
.
In case you are in doubt about how to handle thru axles, please contact
your bicycle dealer.
In the case of combined derailleur and internal gear hubs the clickbox must
also be removed first before you can dismount the rear wheel, as is the case
with typical derailleur gear rear wheels.
 
Remove the cap and the fastening nut off the valve and deflate the tyre
completely . Press the tyre from the sides towards the centre of the rim.
You will find it easier to remove the tyre, if you do this around its entire cir-
cumference.
Apply a plastic tyre lever to one bead of the tyre about 5 cm beside the valve
and lever the tyre out of the rim in this area . Hold the tyre lever tight in
its position. Slip the second tyre lever between rim and tyre at a distance of
about ten centimetres on the other side of the valve and lever the next por-
tion of the bead over the edge of the rim.
After levering a part of the tyre bead over the edge of the rim you should
normally be able to slip off the whole tyre on one side by moving the tyre lever
around the whole circumference. Now you can remove the inner tube . See
to it that the valve does not get caught, as this can damage the inner tube.
If necessary you can remove the whole tyre by pulling the other tyre bead
off the rim. Repair the puncture according to the instructions of the repair kit
manufacturer or replace the inner tube by a new one.
a
b
c
d


 
Flat tyres are the most common cause of puncture during cycling. However,
as long as you have the necessary tools for changing tyres and inner tubes
and a spare tube or a repair kit, this need not mean the end of your cycle
ride. For bicycles with quick-releases all you need in addition are two tyre
levers and a pump .
Be sure to read chapters “Wheel Mounting” and“How to Use
Quick-Releases and Thru Axles” before wheel removal. If you
are in doubt or if you have any questions, please contact your
bicycle dealer!
 

Open the release lever of the brake (Shimano, SRAM) or shift the bolt
in the gear/brake lever at the handlebar (Campagnolo). If your bicycle has
derailleur gears, shift to the smallest sprocket. This shifts the rear derailleur
right to the outside where it does not interfere with the removal of the wheel.


If your bicycle has  (cantilever or V-brakes) you first have to un-
hook the brake cable from the brake arm. To do this, grip the brake with
one hand and press the brake pads and arms together. In this position it
should be easy to disengage the usually barrel shaped nipple or, in the case
of V-brakes, the outer cable.
If your bicycle has  from Magura, unlock its quick-
release on one side of the brake and take it off the mounting bolt.
If your bicycle has  and , loosen
the torque arm supporting the drive and braking force on the frame. Further-
more, you need to disconnect the shifting cables and the clickbox respec-
tively before removing the wheel.
If you have (hydraulic and mechanical), you should first check
the exact position and condition of the brake pads and/or wear indicators
(ear or nose-shaped metal protrusions) . In this way you will be able to tell
after the removal whether the brake pads are still in their correct position.
Read the brake manufacturer’s instructions!
Do not pull the (disc) brake lever with a removed wheel and
make sure to mount the safety locks when removing the wheel.
a
b
c
d
Rotors can become hot, so let them cool down before remov-
ing a wheel.
Please read the operating instructions of the brake and the gear
manufacturer.
If you have derailleur gears, you should shift the chain to the smallest
sprocket before removing the rear wheel. This shifts the rear derailleur right
to the outside where it does not interfere with the removal of the wheel.
Open the quick-release, as described in chapter 

If you cannot remove the wheel after releasing the lever, this is due to the
drop-out safety tabs. They come as metal catches which engage with re-
cesses in the drop outs. Just release the quick-release adjusting nut a little
and slip the wheel past the tabs.
You will find it easier to remove the rear wheel, when you pull the rear derail-
leur slightly backwards . Lift the bicycle off the ground and give the wheel
a gentle tap with your hand so that it drops out.
If you have a bicycle with thru axles, please read chapter   
.
In case you are in doubt about how to handle thru axles, please contact
your bicycle dealer.
In the case of combined derailleur and internal gear hubs the clickbox must
also be removed first before you can dismount the rear wheel, as is the case
with typical derailleur gear rear wheels.
 
Remove the cap and the fastening nut off the valve and deflate the tyre
completely . Press the tyre from the sides towards the centre of the rim.
You will find it easier to remove the tyre, if you do this around its entire cir-
cumference.
Apply a plastic tyre lever to one bead of the tyre about 5 cm beside the valve
and lever the tyre out of the rim in this area . Hold the tyre lever tight in
its position. Slip the second tyre lever between rim and tyre at a distance of
about ten centimetres on the other side of the valve and lever the next por-
tion of the bead over the edge of the rim.
After levering a part of the tyre bead over the edge of the rim you should
normally be able to slip off the whole tyre on one side by moving the tyre lever
around the whole circumference. Now you can remove the inner tube . See
to it that the valve does not get caught, as this can damage the inner tube.
If necessary you can remove the whole tyre by pulling the other tyre bead
off the rim. Repair the puncture according to the instructions of the repair kit
manufacturer or replace the inner tube by a new one.
a
b
c
d
62
63
If you have a puncture whilst riding, do not pull the whole in-
ner tube out of the tyre. Leave the valve sticking through the
rim, inflate the inner tube and bring it close to your ear. In most
cases you can hear the air coming out. At home you can help
yourself with a bucket of water where you can locate the hole
by the bubbles. When you have found the hole, look for the cor-
responding place on the tyre and check it. Often, you will find
a foreign body sticking in the tyre, which ought to be removed.
Otherwise another puncture can occur.
When you have removed the tyre, you should also check the rim tape (a). It
should lie squarely in the trough of the rim, covering all spoke nipples, and
should not be torn anywhere or brittle. In the case of double wall rims the
tape must cover the entire rim base, but it should not be so broad as to
stand up along the inside edges of the rim trough. Rim tapes for this type of
rim should only be made of textile or durable plastic. If you are in doubt or if
you have any questions, please contact your bicycle dealer!
Replace spoilt rim tapes immediately.
If the fabric of the tyre is destroyed by the perforating object,
replace the tyre to be on the safe side.
Dismounting a Rohloff rear wheel requires special handling.
Please follow the enclosed Rohloff instructions!
7.5.3 Tyre Mounting (Clincher, Folding Tyres)
When mounting a tyre make sure no foreign matter, such as dirt or sand,
gets inside the tyre and you do not damage the inner tube in the process.
Slip one bead of the tyre onto the rim (b). Using your thumbs, press the
bead over the edge of the rim and then around the entire circumference.
This should normally be possible without using tools.
Stick the valve of the inner tube through the hole in the rim (c). Inflate the
inner tube slightly so that it becomes round and push it into the tyre all the
way round. Make sure not to leave any folds in the inner tube.
To finish mounting the tyre, start at the opposite side of the valve. Using
your thumbs, press as much of the second bead of the tyre over the edge of
the rim as you can (d). Make sure the inner tube does not get pinched and
squashed between tyre and rim. You can prevent this by pushing the inner
tube into the hollow of the tyre with a finger as you work along.
Work the tyre into the rim, approaching the valve symmetrically from both
sides. Towards the end, you will have to pull the tyre vigorously downwards
to make the already mounted portion of the tyre slip towards the deepest part
of the rim trough. This will ease the job noticeably on the last centimetres.
a
b
c
d
Before fitting the tyre completely on the rim check again whether the inner
tube lies properly inside the tyre and press the last stretch of tyre over the
edge of the rim using the balls of your thumbs (a).
If this does not work, you will have to use the tyre levers (b). Make sure the
blunt ends point towards the inner tube and the inner tube does not get
damaged.
Push the valve a little into the tyre so that the inner tube does not get caught
between the rim and the tyre beads. Check whether the valve stands up-
right. If not, dismount one bead again and reposition the inner tube. To
make sure the inner tube does not get pinched between rim and bead,
inflate the tyre a little and then move it sideways back and forth between
the sides of the rim. While doing this you can check whether the rim tape
has shifted.
Inflate the inner tube to the desired pressure. The maximum pressure is
indicated on the side of the tyre.
Check the seating of the tyre by means of the “witness line” running around
the side of the tyre just above the edge of the rim (c). The distance between
the line and the edge of the rim should be even around the entire circumfer-
ence of the tyre.
7.5.4 Removal of Tubeless Tyres (d)
Deflate the tyre completely. Press the tyre from the sides towards the centre
of the rim, until both beads lie slack in the centre of the rim. Start remov-
ing the tyre at the point opposite the valve and lift one tyre bead with your
fingers over the edge of the rim. Do not use tyre levers! Slip the entire tyre
bead over the rim. Then pull the other bead off the rim, as well.
7.5.5 Repair of Tubeless Tyres
In the event of a puncture tubeless tyres also work with an inserted inner
tube. First remove the perforating object, as far as available, from the tyre
and remove the valve from the rim. Insert a slightly inflated new inner tube
into the tyre. Mount the tyre as described below and make sure it is properly
seated in the rim and inflated to the specified pressure.
Tubeless tyres can be sealed on the inside with a conventional repair patch,
as well. Observe the instructions of the repair kit manufacturer.
Improper mounting can lead to malfunctioning or even result in
tyre failure. Therefore, be sure to follow the instructions of the
manufacturer enclosed with the delivery.
a
b
c
d
62
63
If you have a puncture whilst riding, do not pull the whole in-
ner tube out of the tyre. Leave the valve sticking through the
rim, inflate the inner tube and bring it close to your ear. In most
cases you can hear the air coming out. At home you can help
yourself with a bucket of water where you can locate the hole
by the bubbles. When you have found the hole, look for the cor-
responding place on the tyre and check it. Often, you will find
a foreign body sticking in the tyre, which ought to be removed.
Otherwise another puncture can occur.
When you have removed the tyre, you should also check the rim tape (a). It
should lie squarely in the trough of the rim, covering all spoke nipples, and
should not be torn anywhere or brittle. In the case of double wall rims the
tape must cover the entire rim base, but it should not be so broad as to
stand up along the inside edges of the rim trough. Rim tapes for this type of
rim should only be made of textile or durable plastic. If you are in doubt or if
you have any questions, please contact your bicycle dealer!
Replace spoilt rim tapes immediately.
If the fabric of the tyre is destroyed by the perforating object,
replace the tyre to be on the safe side.
Dismounting a Rohloff rear wheel requires special handling.
Please follow the enclosed Rohloff instructions!
7.5.3 Tyre Mounting (Clincher, Folding Tyres)
When mounting a tyre make sure no foreign matter, such as dirt or sand,
gets inside the tyre and you do not damage the inner tube in the process.
Slip one bead of the tyre onto the rim (b). Using your thumbs, press the
bead over the edge of the rim and then around the entire circumference.
This should normally be possible without using tools.
Stick the valve of the inner tube through the hole in the rim (c). Inflate the
inner tube slightly so that it becomes round and push it into the tyre all the
way round. Make sure not to leave any folds in the inner tube.
To finish mounting the tyre, start at the opposite side of the valve. Using
your thumbs, press as much of the second bead of the tyre over the edge of
the rim as you can (d). Make sure the inner tube does not get pinched and
squashed between tyre and rim. You can prevent this by pushing the inner
tube into the hollow of the tyre with a finger as you work along.
Work the tyre into the rim, approaching the valve symmetrically from both
sides. Towards the end, you will have to pull the tyre vigorously downwards
to make the already mounted portion of the tyre slip towards the deepest part
of the rim trough. This will ease the job noticeably on the last centimetres.
a
b
c
d
Before fitting the tyre completely on the rim check again whether the inner
tube lies properly inside the tyre and press the last stretch of tyre over the
edge of the rim using the balls of your thumbs (a).
If this does not work, you will have to use the tyre levers (b). Make sure the
blunt ends point towards the inner tube and the inner tube does not get
damaged.
Push the valve a little into the tyre so that the inner tube does not get caught
between the rim and the tyre beads. Check whether the valve stands up-
right. If not, dismount one bead again and reposition the inner tube. To
make sure the inner tube does not get pinched between rim and bead,
inflate the tyre a little and then move it sideways back and forth between
the sides of the rim. While doing this you can check whether the rim tape
has shifted.
Inflate the inner tube to the desired pressure. The maximum pressure is
indicated on the side of the tyre.
Check the seating of the tyre by means of the “witness line” running around
the side of the tyre just above the edge of the rim (c). The distance between
the line and the edge of the rim should be even around the entire circumfer-
ence of the tyre.
7.5.4 Removal of Tubeless Tyres (d)
Deflate the tyre completely. Press the tyre from the sides towards the centre
of the rim, until both beads lie slack in the centre of the rim. Start remov-
ing the tyre at the point opposite the valve and lift one tyre bead with your
fingers over the edge of the rim. Do not use tyre levers! Slip the entire tyre
bead over the rim. Then pull the other bead off the rim, as well.
7.5.5 Repair of Tubeless Tyres
In the event of a puncture tubeless tyres also work with an inserted inner
tube. First remove the perforating object, as far as available, from the tyre
and remove the valve from the rim. Insert a slightly inflated new inner tube
into the tyre. Mount the tyre as described below and make sure it is properly
seated in the rim and inflated to the specified pressure.
Tubeless tyres can be sealed on the inside with a conventional repair patch,
as well. Observe the instructions of the repair kit manufacturer.
Improper mounting can lead to malfunctioning or even result in
tyre failure. Therefore, be sure to follow the instructions of the
manufacturer enclosed with the delivery.
a
b
c
d
64
65
7.5.6 Mounting Tubeless Tyres
Before mounting a tyre make sure it is free of dirt and lubricant on the inside
and around the beads. Do not use tyre levers!
To prevent any damage, wet both beads all around with soapy water or with
tyre mounting lubricant and press the tyre with your hands onto the rim.
Press one bead over its entire circumference over one edge of the rim and
then the second tyre bead (a). Centre the tyre in the rim. Make sure the tyre
is properly seated in the rim base and the beads lie symmetrically on either
side of the valve. Inflate the tyre with a compressor or a CO2-cartridge to
the maximum permissible pressure so that it can get seated on the rim. The
permissible pressure is usually specified on the side of the tyre.
Check whether the tyre is properly seated by inspecting the fine witness line
(b) just above the rim edge. This line should be even to the rim all around
the tyre. Starting from the maximum tyre pressure you can now reduce the
pressure through the valve to suit your needs. Please observe the recom-
mended tyre pressure range.
Tubeless tyres must be mounted on UST rims or UST wheels
(Mavic and other manufacturers) only.
7.5.7 Removal of Tubular Tyres
To remove the tubular push it a little to the side of the rim at a place opposite
the valve until a gap appears and the tyre starts to come off. If the tubular
remains stubborn, stick a plastic tyre lever into the gap and lift the tyre off
the rim (c).
After a puncture the tubular is no longer securely fixed on the
rim. Be sure to ride back very carefully by taking the shortest
route possible. Do not accelerate or brake hard! For your own
safety, have yourself picked up, if you are in doubt.
7.5.8 Mounting Tubular Tyres
To mount a tubular tyre properly so that it durably stays in place you should
take your time and proceed stepwise. A little practice and experience with
the glue (d) and tubular model you are using can speed up the job!
For your own safety, ask your bicycle dealer to mount a tubular.
a
b
c
d
Tubular tyres can be glued either with liquid tyre glue or with adhesive tape.
One advantage of using tape is that it can be done fairly quickly. However,
this may not always give a sufficiently firm bond of the tyre on the rim. In the
event of a roadside puncture the tape will often cling to the dismounted tyre
and your spare tyre may not bond to the rim sufficiently well.
A poorly glued tubular tyre can come off the rim. Risk of an
accident!
A better alternative, therefore, is to glue the tyre to a generous bed of several
layers of liquid tyre glue. Glue not only gives a firmer bond, it usually also
remains on the rim when dismounting the tyre. However, back home again
you should remove the spare tyre nevertheless. To achieve a stronger bond
you can then retreat the adhesive bed and the tyre with glue and remount
the tyre.
Tyre glues do not only stick on rims and tyres, they also cling
quite stubbornly to fingers and clothes. This makes it advisable
to wear old clothes when mounting tubulars.
When mounting a tyre on a rim that has already been used, it
may be necessary to remove glue residues and dirt with a steel
brush or with emery cloth. When you are done, wipe the rim
with a soft cloth and benzine (a).
Benzine and tyre glue should only be used in a well aired place,
since both materials are highly flammable. Keep them in a safe
place out of children’s reach!
Remove the protective valve cap and mount a valve extension, if necessary,
to the valve head unscrewed before, if you intend to mount the tyre in a deep
section rim (b). Inflate the tyre to a point where it starts to become round and
then stick the valve through the hole in the rim (c).
Starting from the valve and working in both directions press the tyre into the
rim all the way round. If you are unable to mount it completely on the rim or
if this would require excessive force, leave off trying, since it might not work
with force alone.
If this is the case the pumped up tyre must be kept on the wheel rim for a
few days. Don’t use force to stretch the tyre (d). Then check again whether
the tyre can be easily mounted.
After mounting the tubular tyre, spin the wheel and see whether the tyre
runs true. The area where the valve comes out of the tyre is often thickened
which leads to a vertical runout of the rim and makes the wheel jolt during
the ride.
a
b
c
d
64
65
7.5.6 Mounting Tubeless Tyres
Before mounting a tyre make sure it is free of dirt and lubricant on the inside
and around the beads. Do not use tyre levers!
To prevent any damage, wet both beads all around with soapy water or with
tyre mounting lubricant and press the tyre with your hands onto the rim.
Press one bead over its entire circumference over one edge of the rim and
then the second tyre bead (a). Centre the tyre in the rim. Make sure the tyre
is properly seated in the rim base and the beads lie symmetrically on either
side of the valve. Inflate the tyre with a compressor or a CO2-cartridge to
the maximum permissible pressure so that it can get seated on the rim. The
permissible pressure is usually specified on the side of the tyre.
Check whether the tyre is properly seated by inspecting the fine witness line
(b) just above the rim edge. This line should be even to the rim all around
the tyre. Starting from the maximum tyre pressure you can now reduce the
pressure through the valve to suit your needs. Please observe the recom-
mended tyre pressure range.
Tubeless tyres must be mounted on UST rims or UST wheels
(Mavic and other manufacturers) only.
7.5.7 Removal of Tubular Tyres
To remove the tubular push it a little to the side of the rim at a place opposite
the valve until a gap appears and the tyre starts to come off. If the tubular
remains stubborn, stick a plastic tyre lever into the gap and lift the tyre off
the rim (c).
After a puncture the tubular is no longer securely fixed on the
rim. Be sure to ride back very carefully by taking the shortest
route possible. Do not accelerate or brake hard! For your own
safety, have yourself picked up, if you are in doubt.
7.5.8 Mounting Tubular Tyres
To mount a tubular tyre properly so that it durably stays in place you should
take your time and proceed stepwise. A little practice and experience with
the glue (d) and tubular model you are using can speed up the job!
For your own safety, ask your bicycle dealer to mount a tubular.
a
b
c
d
Tubular tyres can be glued either with liquid tyre glue or with adhesive tape.
One advantage of using tape is that it can be done fairly quickly. However,
this may not always give a sufficiently firm bond of the tyre on the rim. In the
event of a roadside puncture the tape will often cling to the dismounted tyre
and your spare tyre may not bond to the rim sufficiently well.
A poorly glued tubular tyre can come off the rim. Risk of an
accident!
A better alternative, therefore, is to glue the tyre to a generous bed of several
layers of liquid tyre glue. Glue not only gives a firmer bond, it usually also
remains on the rim when dismounting the tyre. However, back home again
you should remove the spare tyre nevertheless. To achieve a stronger bond
you can then retreat the adhesive bed and the tyre with glue and remount
the tyre.
Tyre glues do not only stick on rims and tyres, they also cling
quite stubbornly to fingers and clothes. This makes it advisable
to wear old clothes when mounting tubulars.
When mounting a tyre on a rim that has already been used, it
may be necessary to remove glue residues and dirt with a steel
brush or with emery cloth. When you are done, wipe the rim
with a soft cloth and benzine (a).
Benzine and tyre glue should only be used in a well aired place,
since both materials are highly flammable. Keep them in a safe
place out of children’s reach!
Remove the protective valve cap and mount a valve extension, if necessary,
to the valve head unscrewed before, if you intend to mount the tyre in a deep
section rim (b). Inflate the tyre to a point where it starts to become round and
then stick the valve through the hole in the rim (c).
Starting from the valve and working in both directions press the tyre into the
rim all the way round. If you are unable to mount it completely on the rim or
if this would require excessive force, leave off trying, since it might not work
with force alone.
If this is the case the pumped up tyre must be kept on the wheel rim for a
few days. Don’t use force to stretch the tyre (d). Then check again whether
the tyre can be easily mounted.
After mounting the tubular tyre, spin the wheel and see whether the tyre
runs true. The area where the valve comes out of the tyre is often thickened
which leads to a vertical runout of the rim and makes the wheel jolt during
the ride.
a
b
c
d


Remove the burrs from the valve hole of an aluminium rim or countersink it
with a big drill, a triangular scraper or a round file. If you have carbon rims, be
careful when removing the burrs from the hole edge with a round file. Insert
the file only from the outside to the inside and not vice versa, otherwise the
fibres of the synthetic matrix might fray out. Seal the area with instant glue
subsequently. This pretreatment will lead to an improved valve fitting to the
rim. If time allows, you can leave the unglued tyre inflated on the rim for a few
days to make the final mounting easier.
Clean the base of the rim from any grease or oil using a rag soaked in spirit
or benzine. Wait for the solvent to evaporate completely before you start to
glue the tyre onto the rim. Gluing the tyre is easiest with the wheel clamped
in a truing stand or mounted on an old fork clamped in a vice.
With liquid tyre glue you will need several layers to create a good adhesive
bed. Spread the tyre glue evenly and as thinly as possible around almost the
entire circumference of the rim. Leave a section of five to ten centimetres
without glue at a place opposite the valve to make it easier to remove the
tyre again at a later time. With a little practice you will be able to apply the
glue straight from the tube . If this does not work at first you might find it
easier to use a stiff brush. If you are using tyre glue from a can you will need
a brush in any case.
Allow the tyre glue to dry until a finger test will proof that it is tacky-dry. This
can take up to a few hours. In the same way add another two thin films of
glue and let them dry. Leave the wheel as it is until at least the next day.
Before mounting the tyre also apply a film of glue to the base tape. To com-
plete the adhesive bed add one last film of glue.
Let the topmost coat flash off for a short moment, but not dry, and place the
wheel on the ground with the valve hole facing upwards. Inflate the tyre until
it starts to round and then stick the valve through the valve hole of the rim
and press it firmly against the rim. Make sure the sides of the tyre do not
touch the adhesive bed, as your tyre will otherwise look smudgy right away.
If you have taken care to leave the section opposite the valve hole free of
glue, you need not be concerned about glue smearing on the ground or dirt
getting into the glue when you place the wheel on the ground.
Take hold of the tyre right and left of the valve with both hands, pull it vigor-
ously downward and work it bit by bit into the base of the rim until you
have about 20 centimetres left to go.
a
b
c
d
Starting from the top again on either side of the valve pull the tyre down
with your hands, letting them gradually slip down to the yet unmounted sec-
tion. Keeping the tyre taut by holding your fingers against the rim and your
thumbs on the tyre, brace the wheel against your hips. Heave the tyre into
the base of the rim with your two thumbs.
When the tyre is seated in the base the next job is to centre it, as it will rarely
run true right away. Clamp the wheel in the mounting stand again and spin it
. If the tread does not run accurately in the centre or if there is any lateral
swerving of the tubular, lift it in that area, twist it a little and place it down
again.
When the tyre runs smoothly in the centre take the wheel off the mounting
stand and inflate the tyre to approximately half its nominal pressure. Lean
your hands on the ends of the axle and quick-release skewers and roll the
wheel a few metres on the ground . As you roll the wheel, vary between
pressing it vertically downward and at a slant to one and to the other side.
If the tyre still runs true during the final check, inflate it to its maximum pres-
sure and wait 8 hours at least or even better a whole day, before setting off
for the first time.
 
Mounting the wheel is done in the reverse order of dismounting. Make sure
the wheel is correctly seated in the drop-outs  and accurately centred
between the fork legs or the seat and chain stays.
Make sure the quick-release, the drop-out safety tabs and the thru axle, if
available, are correctly seated. For more information see chapter 

If you have rim brakes, make sure you hook the brake cable
back up immediately!
The brake of a road racing bicycle needs to be retightened!
Mount the hydraulic rim brakes and close its quick-release
immediately after fixing the wheel! Make sure the brake pads
touch the rim and not the tyre or the spokes.
If you have disc brakes, check before mounting the wheel whether the brake
pads rest snugly in their seats in the brake calliper body. The gaps between
the brake pads and the wheel should be parallel and the wear indicators
in their correct position. Make sure you guide the rotor between the brake
pads carefully.
a
b
c
d


Remove the burrs from the valve hole of an aluminium rim or countersink it
with a big drill, a triangular scraper or a round file. If you have carbon rims, be
careful when removing the burrs from the hole edge with a round file. Insert
the file only from the outside to the inside and not vice versa, otherwise the
fibres of the synthetic matrix might fray out. Seal the area with instant glue
subsequently. This pretreatment will lead to an improved valve fitting to the
rim. If time allows, you can leave the unglued tyre inflated on the rim for a few
days to make the final mounting easier.
Clean the base of the rim from any grease or oil using a rag soaked in spirit
or benzine. Wait for the solvent to evaporate completely before you start to
glue the tyre onto the rim. Gluing the tyre is easiest with the wheel clamped
in a truing stand or mounted on an old fork clamped in a vice.
With liquid tyre glue you will need several layers to create a good adhesive
bed. Spread the tyre glue evenly and as thinly as possible around almost the
entire circumference of the rim. Leave a section of five to ten centimetres
without glue at a place opposite the valve to make it easier to remove the
tyre again at a later time. With a little practice you will be able to apply the
glue straight from the tube . If this does not work at first you might find it
easier to use a stiff brush. If you are using tyre glue from a can you will need
a brush in any case.
Allow the tyre glue to dry until a finger test will proof that it is tacky-dry. This
can take up to a few hours. In the same way add another two thin films of
glue and let them dry. Leave the wheel as it is until at least the next day.
Before mounting the tyre also apply a film of glue to the base tape. To com-
plete the adhesive bed add one last film of glue.
Let the topmost coat flash off for a short moment, but not dry, and place the
wheel on the ground with the valve hole facing upwards. Inflate the tyre until
it starts to round and then stick the valve through the valve hole of the rim
and press it firmly against the rim. Make sure the sides of the tyre do not
touch the adhesive bed, as your tyre will otherwise look smudgy right away.
If you have taken care to leave the section opposite the valve hole free of
glue, you need not be concerned about glue smearing on the ground or dirt
getting into the glue when you place the wheel on the ground.
Take hold of the tyre right and left of the valve with both hands, pull it vigor-
ously downward and work it bit by bit into the base of the rim until you
have about 20 centimetres left to go.
a
b
c
d
Starting from the top again on either side of the valve pull the tyre down
with your hands, letting them gradually slip down to the yet unmounted sec-
tion. Keeping the tyre taut by holding your fingers against the rim and your
thumbs on the tyre, brace the wheel against your hips. Heave the tyre into
the base of the rim with your two thumbs.
When the tyre is seated in the base the next job is to centre it, as it will rarely
run true right away. Clamp the wheel in the mounting stand again and spin it
. If the tread does not run accurately in the centre or if there is any lateral
swerving of the tubular, lift it in that area, twist it a little and place it down
again.
When the tyre runs smoothly in the centre take the wheel off the mounting
stand and inflate the tyre to approximately half its nominal pressure. Lean
your hands on the ends of the axle and quick-release skewers and roll the
wheel a few metres on the ground . As you roll the wheel, vary between
pressing it vertically downward and at a slant to one and to the other side.
If the tyre still runs true during the final check, inflate it to its maximum pres-
sure and wait 8 hours at least or even better a whole day, before setting off
for the first time.
 
Mounting the wheel is done in the reverse order of dismounting. Make sure
the wheel is correctly seated in the drop-outs  and accurately centred
between the fork legs or the seat and chain stays.
Make sure the quick-release, the drop-out safety tabs and the thru axle, if
available, are correctly seated. For more information see chapter 

If you have rim brakes, make sure you hook the brake cable
back up immediately!
The brake of a road racing bicycle needs to be retightened!
Mount the hydraulic rim brakes and close its quick-release
immediately after fixing the wheel! Make sure the brake pads
touch the rim and not the tyre or the spokes.
If you have disc brakes, check before mounting the wheel whether the brake
pads rest snugly in their seats in the brake calliper body. The gaps between
the brake pads and the wheel should be parallel and the wear indicators
in their correct position. Make sure you guide the rotor between the brake
pads carefully.
a
b
c
d
68
69
After mounting the wheel and tightening the quick-release pull the brake
lever (a) and spin the wheel. The rotor should not drag on the brake caliper
or on the brake pads.
Before riding again check that you have not let any grease or
other lubricants get on the brake surfaces (b) or rotor while
mounting the wheel.
Check whether the brake pads hit the rotors or braking surfaces
of the rims. Make sure the wheel is properly seated and firmly
fixed in the drop-outs. Always do a brake test as described in
chapter “Before Every Ride“!
7.6 Special Features of Carbon Wheels
As carbon wheels (c) are made of carbon fibre reinforced plastic they come
with particular aerodynamic properties and low weight (d).
Make sure the maximum overall weight of rider, baggage (ruck-
sack) and bicycle does not exceed 100 kg. Carbon wheels are
generally not approved for trailer towing!
Check the condition of the brakes and make sure you only ride
with brake pads that are suitable for carbon rims!
Due to the particular behaviour of carbon wheels in wet condi-
tions, we strongly recommend the usage of conventional alu-
minium rims for riding in the rain or if there is a risk of rain.
In the wet braking on carbon rims is less effective; i.e. the brak-
ing power is severely reduced. Risk of an accident!
a
b
c
d
What to Bear in Mind When Braking With Carbon Wheels
As the braking surfaces are made of carbon, there are some things to keep
in mind. Only use brake pads that are suitable for carbon wheels, e.g. from
Shimano, Campagnolo or the wheel manufacturer, as they are designed to
suit such type of rims. Carbon brake pads usually wear down faster than
conventional brake pads. Keep in mind that the braking response of the rims
needs getting used to, in particular in wet conditions.
Therefore, test your brakes in a place free of traffic until you have full control
of your bicycle (a).
The brake surfaces of the carbon rims are sensitive to heat. Therefore, when
you are riding in the mountains, avoid any drag braking. Riding downhill e.g.
with a permanently activated rear wheel brake may heat up the material and
result in a deformation. The rim may sustain damage and the tyre may burst
or come off, thus causing an accident. Always use both brakes simultane-
ously and release them intermittently to allow the material to cool off.
Check the condition of the brake pads at short intervals, as they
wear down faster than with aluminium rims (b).
Keep the particularities of braking in mind, in particular when
riding in the mountains and in the wet!
a
b
68
69
After mounting the wheel and tightening the quick-release pull the brake
lever (a) and spin the wheel. The rotor should not drag on the brake caliper
or on the brake pads.
Before riding again check that you have not let any grease or
other lubricants get on the brake surfaces (b) or rotor while
mounting the wheel.
Check whether the brake pads hit the rotors or braking surfaces
of the rims. Make sure the wheel is properly seated and firmly
fixed in the drop-outs. Always do a brake test as described in
chapter “Before Every Ride“!
7.6 Special Features of Carbon Wheels
As carbon wheels (c) are made of carbon fibre reinforced plastic they come
with particular aerodynamic properties and low weight (d).
Make sure the maximum overall weight of rider, baggage (ruck-
sack) and bicycle does not exceed 100 kg. Carbon wheels are
generally not approved for trailer towing!
Check the condition of the brakes and make sure you only ride
with brake pads that are suitable for carbon rims!
Due to the particular behaviour of carbon wheels in wet condi-
tions, we strongly recommend the usage of conventional alu-
minium rims for riding in the rain or if there is a risk of rain.
In the wet braking on carbon rims is less effective; i.e. the brak-
ing power is severely reduced. Risk of an accident!
a
b
c
d
What to Bear in Mind When Braking With Carbon Wheels
As the braking surfaces are made of carbon, there are some things to keep
in mind. Only use brake pads that are suitable for carbon wheels, e.g. from
Shimano, Campagnolo or the wheel manufacturer, as they are designed to
suit such type of rims. Carbon brake pads usually wear down faster than
conventional brake pads. Keep in mind that the braking response of the rims
needs getting used to, in particular in wet conditions.
Therefore, test your brakes in a place free of traffic until you have full control
of your bicycle (a).
The brake surfaces of the carbon rims are sensitive to heat. Therefore, when
you are riding in the mountains, avoid any drag braking. Riding downhill e.g.
with a permanently activated rear wheel brake may heat up the material and
result in a deformation. The rim may sustain damage and the tyre may burst
or come off, thus causing an accident. Always use both brakes simultane-
ously and release them intermittently to allow the material to cool off.
Check the condition of the brake pads at short intervals, as they
wear down faster than with aluminium rims (b).
Keep the particularities of braking in mind, in particular when
riding in the mountains and in the wet!
a
b
70
71
8 Headset
The headset (a) connects the fork to the frame, but allows it to move freely. It
must turn with virtually no resistance, if the bicycle is to run straight, stabilis-
ing itself as it travels. Shocks caused by uneven road surfaces expose the
headset to considerable levels of stress. In this way it can become loose and
go out of correct adjustment.
Riding the bicycle with a loose headset increases the stress on
fork and bearings. The fork can break and throw you off your
bicycle!!
8.1 Checking the Headset
Check the headset for play by placing your fingers around the upper head-
set cup (b).
Bring your weight to bear on the saddle, pull the front brakes with your other
hand and push the bicycle firmly back and forth with the wheel remaining
on the ground. If the bearing has play, you will feel the upper headset cup
moving relative to the upper bearing cap - visible as a small gap between
the cup and the cap.
To check whether the bearing runs smoothly, lift the frame up until the front
wheel no longer touches the ground. The handlebars should turn from far
left to far right without feeling roughness or tightness at any point. Turning
the bars should require only a little tap on the grips (c).
Adjusting the headset requires a certain amount of experience
and should therefore be left to your local bicycle dealer.
If you want to adjust conventional headsets you will need spe-
cial tools. If you nevertheless want to try adjusting it yourself,
please read the operating instructions of the manufacturer care-
fully before you do!
Check the secure seat of the stem after having adjusted the
bearings, by holding the front wheel between your knees and
trying to twist the handlebars relative to the front wheel (d). Oth-
erwise, a loose stem can throw you off your bicycle.
a
d
8.2 Readjusting a Conventional Headset
The adjustment tolerance between there being play in the bearings and
them being set too tight is very small. The bearings are susceptible to dam-
age. If you want to try it nevertheless, you need two large and flat open-end
wrenches (a).
Release the threaded top nut and tighten the upper threaded bearing cap a
little clockwise. Retighten the top nut.
A too tight adjustment may damage the headset and impair the
performance of the bicycle.
8.3 Readjusting an Aheadset
®
(*Aheadset
®
is a registered trade mark for threadless systems of DiaCompe)
The distinct feature of this system is that the stem does not sit within the fork
steerer tube, but rather slips over the fork steerer tube, which in this case is
threadless (b). The stem is thus an important part of the headset bearing. Its
clamping force secures the bearing in the correct running position. Instead
of special tools you need in most cases only one or two Allen keys as well
as a torque wrench to adjust the Aheadset
®
. Release the clamping bolt(s)
located on the side of the stem by one to two complete turns. Using an Al-
len key, gently tighten the countersunk adjusting bolt on top a little, e.g. by
a quarter turn (c).
Do not overtighten the upper bolt, it only serves the purpose of
adjusting the bearing play, not of securing the stem!
Re-align the stem with the frame so that the handlebars are not slanted
when the wheel points straight ahead. Make sure the front wheel is in line
with the top tube and the stem. Tighten the clamping bolts of the stem (d).
Use a torque wrench and never exceed the maximum tightening torque!
You will find the prescribed values in chapter “Recommended Tightening
Torques”, directly on the components and/or in the manuals of the com-
ponent manufacturers.
a
b
c
d
b
c
70
71
8 Headset
The headset (a) connects the fork to the frame, but allows it to move freely. It
must turn with virtually no resistance, if the bicycle is to run straight, stabilis-
ing itself as it travels. Shocks caused by uneven road surfaces expose the
headset to considerable levels of stress. In this way it can become loose and
go out of correct adjustment.
Riding the bicycle with a loose headset increases the stress on
fork and bearings. The fork can break and throw you off your
bicycle!!
8.1 Checking the Headset
Check the headset for play by placing your fingers around the upper head-
set cup (b).
Bring your weight to bear on the saddle, pull the front brakes with your other
hand and push the bicycle firmly back and forth with the wheel remaining
on the ground. If the bearing has play, you will feel the upper headset cup
moving relative to the upper bearing cap - visible as a small gap between
the cup and the cap.
To check whether the bearing runs smoothly, lift the frame up until the front
wheel no longer touches the ground. The handlebars should turn from far
left to far right without feeling roughness or tightness at any point. Turning
the bars should require only a little tap on the grips (c).
Adjusting the headset requires a certain amount of experience
and should therefore be left to your local bicycle dealer.
If you want to adjust conventional headsets you will need spe-
cial tools. If you nevertheless want to try adjusting it yourself,
please read the operating instructions of the manufacturer care-
fully before you do!
Check the secure seat of the stem after having adjusted the
bearings, by holding the front wheel between your knees and
trying to twist the handlebars relative to the front wheel (d). Oth-
erwise, a loose stem can throw you off your bicycle.
a
d
8.2 Readjusting a Conventional Headset
The adjustment tolerance between there being play in the bearings and
them being set too tight is very small. The bearings are susceptible to dam-
age. If you want to try it nevertheless, you need two large and flat open-end
wrenches (a).
Release the threaded top nut and tighten the upper threaded bearing cap a
little clockwise. Retighten the top nut.
A too tight adjustment may damage the headset and impair the
performance of the bicycle.
8.3 Readjusting an Aheadset
®
(*Aheadset
®
is a registered trade mark for threadless systems of DiaCompe)
The distinct feature of this system is that the stem does not sit within the fork
steerer tube, but rather slips over the fork steerer tube, which in this case is
threadless (b). The stem is thus an important part of the headset bearing. Its
clamping force secures the bearing in the correct running position. Instead
of special tools you need in most cases only one or two Allen keys as well
as a torque wrench to adjust the Aheadset
®
. Release the clamping bolt(s)
located on the side of the stem by one to two complete turns. Using an Al-
len key, gently tighten the countersunk adjusting bolt on top a little, e.g. by
a quarter turn (c).
Do not overtighten the upper bolt, it only serves the purpose of
adjusting the bearing play, not of securing the stem!
Re-align the stem with the frame so that the handlebars are not slanted
when the wheel points straight ahead. Make sure the front wheel is in line
with the top tube and the stem. Tighten the clamping bolts of the stem (d).
Use a torque wrench and never exceed the maximum tightening torque!
You will find the prescribed values in chapter “Recommended Tightening
Torques”, directly on the components and/or in the manuals of the com-
ponent manufacturers.
a
b
c
d
b
c


Bear in mind that by overtightening the bolts, the stem can
crush the steerer tube.
Check the headset for play as described above . Take care not to over-
tighten the bearings, as this could easily damage them.
If you do not succeed in adjusting the bearing, this can have
several reasons. If you are in doubt or if you have any questions,
please contact your bicycle dealer!
Check the secure seat of the stem by taking the front wheel
between your legs and trying to turn the handlebars and stem
relative to the wheel . A loose stem can throw you off your
bicycle.
a
b
9 Suspension
 

The force required to compress the spring a given distance.
A higher rate indicates a higher force requirement per unit of length. With air
springs a higher rate means a higher pressure .

The initial spring tension of coil springs and elastomers can be set within a
certain range. This makes the suspension respond only when exposed to a
higher load. The spring rate remains, however, unchanged. Heavier riders
cannot compensate a too soft spring rate with a higher initial tension.

The damping which controls the rate at which the fork extends after being
compressed .
a
b
c
d

The damping which controls the rate at which the fork compresses .

The distance by which the rear shock or fork compresses (should com-
press) when the rider assumes his normal riding position while the bicycle
is stationary.
:
Device blocking the fork or the damper from absorbing shocks thus ensur-
ing a smooth riding on tarred roads without vibrations. A lockout must not
be activated when riding off-road or downhill.

Increases compression damping and helps eliminate bob. Compared to the
lockout mechanism the suspension is not inactivated entirely.


Bear in mind that by overtightening the bolts, the stem can
crush the steerer tube.
Check the headset for play as described above . Take care not to over-
tighten the bearings, as this could easily damage them.
If you do not succeed in adjusting the bearing, this can have
several reasons. If you are in doubt or if you have any questions,
please contact your bicycle dealer!
Check the secure seat of the stem by taking the front wheel
between your legs and trying to turn the handlebars and stem
relative to the wheel . A loose stem can throw you off your
bicycle.
a
b
9 Suspension
 

The force required to compress the spring a given distance.
A higher rate indicates a higher force requirement per unit of length. With air
springs a higher rate means a higher pressure .

The initial spring tension of coil springs and elastomers can be set within a
certain range. This makes the suspension respond only when exposed to a
higher load. The spring rate remains, however, unchanged. Heavier riders
cannot compensate a too soft spring rate with a higher initial tension.

The damping which controls the rate at which the fork extends after being
compressed .
a
b
c
d

The damping which controls the rate at which the fork compresses .

The distance by which the rear shock or fork compresses (should com-
press) when the rider assumes his normal riding position while the bicycle
is stationary.
:
Device blocking the fork or the damper from absorbing shocks thus ensur-
ing a smooth riding on tarred roads without vibrations. A lockout must not
be activated when riding off-road or downhill.

Increases compression damping and helps eliminate bob. Compared to the
lockout mechanism the suspension is not inactivated entirely.
74
75
9.2 Suspension Forks
9.2.1 Adjusting the Spring Rate
Most mountain bikes as well as some hybrid bicycles are equipped with
suspension forks (a). This feature gives you better control of your bicycle
when riding cross-country or on rough road surfaces. It noticeably reduces
the strain on you and your bicycle caused by the mechanical shocks from
the terrain.
Suspension forks differ in their spring elements and in the way the damping
is realised. Suspension is provided by coil springs, special types of plastic
known as elastomers or sealed air compartments or combinations of these
options. The damping is usually done by oil or by the self-damping proper-
ties of the elastomers.
For more information see the suspension glossary heading this
chapter.
In order to work optimally, the fork has to be adjusted to the weight of the
rider and the intended purpose. Be sure to have this adjustment carried out
by your bicycle dealer before delivery. With an air sprung suspension fork
you have to inflate it before your first ride. The fork adjustment depends on
the rider’s weight and the sitting posture.
Please bear in mind that the suspension fork should sag a little under the
rider’s weight. When the front wheel passes through a depression in the
ground, the spring extends and the suspension fork will smooth out the
uneven surface. If the selected air pressure or initial spring tension is too
high, this effect is lost because the wheel will already be fully extended. This
means the loss of an important feature affecting both safety and comfort.
Cross-country and marathon racers usually run less sag than downhillers or
more comfort loving freeriders. For cross-country and marathon riding the
rear shock should yield by about 10-25 % of its total travel, for enduro and
freeriding by about 20-40 %.
Put a cable tie (b) onto the stanchion tube so that you can still slide it easily
along the tube’s exposed section.
To measure the maximum shock travel release all the air pressure from the
suspension fork. Then inflate the fork to the recommended air pressure and
measure the distance between the cable tie and the upper edge of the
lower leg.
The initial tension of most forks with coil springs or elastomer fillings can be
altered to a limited degree by adjusting the preload knob located on the fork
crown connecting the stanchion tubes. In the event there is no adjusting
device, the coil spring or elastomer filling need to be replaced.
a
b
c
d
In the case of oil/air forks, the spring rate is adjusted by the air pressure in
the fork ((c) p. 74). The pressure must be checked at regular intervals with a
special shock pump which is normally made available by the fork manufac-
turer. Please follow the recommendations of the manufacturer.
Ride your bicycle on different kinds of surface and check afterwards the
travel of the cable tie ((d) p. 74). The difference is the rear shock’s travel you
have used. If the cable tie has moved a few millimetres only, your fork is too
firm. Reduce the air pressure of air sprung forks or the initial spring tension
of coil springs. If your rear shock is still too firm, have the springs replaced.
If the cable tie has moved along the entire travel range (a) or if you can
hear the fork hit the end of its travel, the spring is too soft. In this case the
initial spring tension/pressure must be increased (b). If the adjustment range
of the coil springs is too small, have the springs replaced by your bicycle
dealer.
Check the pressure of air sprung forks at regular intervals and follow the
recommendations of the manufacturer. If the available setting options do not
cover your needs, you will need to replace the springs or dampers. Many
manufacturers have tuning and retrofitting kits on offer. If you are in doubt
or if you have any questions, please contact your bicycle dealer! When re-
placing any parts be sure to only use parts that bear the appropriate mark
and, to be on the safe side, original spare parts. Your bicycle dealer will be
pleased to help you!
Fork manufacturers include instructions with their deliveries.
Read them carefully before changing any settings or doing any
maintenance work on your suspension fork.
The suspension fork should be set up and adjusted in such a
way that it does not reach the end of its travel (known as bottom
out). A spring rate which is too soft (or too low an air pressure)
can usually be heard or felt as a “clunk” type noise. This noise
is caused by the sudden complete compression of the suspen-
sion fork as it reaches bottom out. If the suspension fork fre-
quently reaches bottom out, it will become damaged over time,
and so will the frame.
Suspension forks (c) are designed in a way to absorb shocks.
If the fork is too rigid and jammed, the terrain induced shocks
pass directly into the frame without any damping. The frame is
normally not designed to withstand such undamped stresses.
If your bicycle is equipped with a suspension fork including
lockout (d), you should keep in mind not to activate the lockout
function when riding over rough terrain, but only when riding
over smooth terrain (tarred roads, smooth tracks).
a
b
c
d
74
75
9.2 Suspension Forks
9.2.1 Adjusting the Spring Rate
Most mountain bikes as well as some hybrid bicycles are equipped with
suspension forks (a). This feature gives you better control of your bicycle
when riding cross-country or on rough road surfaces. It noticeably reduces
the strain on you and your bicycle caused by the mechanical shocks from
the terrain.
Suspension forks differ in their spring elements and in the way the damping
is realised. Suspension is provided by coil springs, special types of plastic
known as elastomers or sealed air compartments or combinations of these
options. The damping is usually done by oil or by the self-damping proper-
ties of the elastomers.
For more information see the suspension glossary heading this
chapter.
In order to work optimally, the fork has to be adjusted to the weight of the
rider and the intended purpose. Be sure to have this adjustment carried out
by your bicycle dealer before delivery. With an air sprung suspension fork
you have to inflate it before your first ride. The fork adjustment depends on
the rider’s weight and the sitting posture.
Please bear in mind that the suspension fork should sag a little under the
rider’s weight. When the front wheel passes through a depression in the
ground, the spring extends and the suspension fork will smooth out the
uneven surface. If the selected air pressure or initial spring tension is too
high, this effect is lost because the wheel will already be fully extended. This
means the loss of an important feature affecting both safety and comfort.
Cross-country and marathon racers usually run less sag than downhillers or
more comfort loving freeriders. For cross-country and marathon riding the
rear shock should yield by about 10-25 % of its total travel, for enduro and
freeriding by about 20-40 %.
Put a cable tie (b) onto the stanchion tube so that you can still slide it easily
along the tube’s exposed section.
To measure the maximum shock travel release all the air pressure from the
suspension fork. Then inflate the fork to the recommended air pressure and
measure the distance between the cable tie and the upper edge of the
lower leg.
The initial tension of most forks with coil springs or elastomer fillings can be
altered to a limited degree by adjusting the preload knob located on the fork
crown connecting the stanchion tubes. In the event there is no adjusting
device, the coil spring or elastomer filling need to be replaced.
a
b
c
d
In the case of oil/air forks, the spring rate is adjusted by the air pressure in
the fork ((c) p. 74). The pressure must be checked at regular intervals with a
special shock pump which is normally made available by the fork manufac-
turer. Please follow the recommendations of the manufacturer.
Ride your bicycle on different kinds of surface and check afterwards the
travel of the cable tie ((d) p. 74). The difference is the rear shock’s travel you
have used. If the cable tie has moved a few millimetres only, your fork is too
firm. Reduce the air pressure of air sprung forks or the initial spring tension
of coil springs. If your rear shock is still too firm, have the springs replaced.
If the cable tie has moved along the entire travel range (a) or if you can
hear the fork hit the end of its travel, the spring is too soft. In this case the
initial spring tension/pressure must be increased (b). If the adjustment range
of the coil springs is too small, have the springs replaced by your bicycle
dealer.
Check the pressure of air sprung forks at regular intervals and follow the
recommendations of the manufacturer. If the available setting options do not
cover your needs, you will need to replace the springs or dampers. Many
manufacturers have tuning and retrofitting kits on offer. If you are in doubt
or if you have any questions, please contact your bicycle dealer! When re-
placing any parts be sure to only use parts that bear the appropriate mark
and, to be on the safe side, original spare parts. Your bicycle dealer will be
pleased to help you!
Fork manufacturers include instructions with their deliveries.
Read them carefully before changing any settings or doing any
maintenance work on your suspension fork.
The suspension fork should be set up and adjusted in such a
way that it does not reach the end of its travel (known as bottom
out). A spring rate which is too soft (or too low an air pressure)
can usually be heard or felt as a “clunk” type noise. This noise
is caused by the sudden complete compression of the suspen-
sion fork as it reaches bottom out. If the suspension fork fre-
quently reaches bottom out, it will become damaged over time,
and so will the frame.
Suspension forks (c) are designed in a way to absorb shocks.
If the fork is too rigid and jammed, the terrain induced shocks
pass directly into the frame without any damping. The frame is
normally not designed to withstand such undamped stresses.
If your bicycle is equipped with a suspension fork including
lockout (d), you should keep in mind not to activate the lockout
function when riding over rough terrain, but only when riding
over smooth terrain (tarred roads, smooth tracks).
a
b
c
d
76
77
9.2.2 Adjusting the Damping Control
The damping is adjusted by valves inside. These valves are designed to
modify the flow rate of the oil and hence the speed with which the fork legs
move in and out. In this way it is possible to optimise the bicycle’s reaction
to obstacles. Furthermore, any oscillatory movement while pedalling can be
reduced. For long uphill rides involving hard pedalling out of the saddle it is
advisable to activate the lockout mechanism. On the other hand, for down-
hill rides on uneven ground it may be better to open the damping system
more or less completely.
Suspension forks with adjustable damping are fitted with an adjusting knob
that is (mainly) red to slow down or accelerate the rebound movement (a).
The second knob, if available, is to adjust the speed of the compression
movement (b).
The adjusting process changes the flow rate of the oil contained within
the suspension fork as it passes through valves and chambers internally.
Some models provide for separate adjustment of compression and rebound
damping. Experience has shown that it is best to begin with the compres-
sion stage entirely open and to first adjust the rebound stage.
Adjusting the suspension fork is a delicate job, as even a small change on
the adjuster can have a big effect. Try approaching the exact setting you
need in increments no larger than a quarter turn from the “Open”-position.
Rebound is considered satisfactory when the suspension fork cycles once
after descending from a high kerb. If you turn the knob too far, the oil inside
will flow very slowly and the rebound will be at maximum. This will result in a
sluggish rebound movement, and the suspension fork will not recover when
exposed to a quick series of impacts.
Turning the adjusting knob in the other direction reduces rebound, making
the suspension fork rebound faster.
Once this is done, adjust the compression stage. This is to control the rate
at which the suspension fork compresses. Adjusting the compression ad-
juster towards the closed or maximum position will give you a firmer, less
active ride. Take your bicycle for a test ride on different kinds of surface (c).
If the suspension fork hits the end of its travel (bottom out) several times, you
will need to change its spring rate (d).
If the damping does not suit your needs, inspite of your adjusting, or if in the
case of coil spring elements you need more than three to four turns for the
initial spring tension, you may need to replace the suspension elements. The
replacement is a job best left to your bicycle dealer.
Do not actuate the lockout function (of the suspension fork)
when riding over rough terrain, but only when riding over
smooth terrain (roads, smooth tracks) ((a) p. 77).
a
b
c
d
Do not turn any screws on your suspension fork in the vague
hope of adjusting it somehow. You could release the fasten-
ing mechanism, thus causing an accident. All manufacturers
normally mark adjustment devices with a scale or “+” and “-“
signs (b).
Suspension fork manufacturers normally include instructions
with their deliveries. Read them carefully before changing any
settings or doing any maintenance work on your rear shock.
A too strong damping of the fork can result in a sluggish re-
bound movement with a suspension fork that will not recover
when exposed to a quick series of impacts. Risk of an acci-
dent! Do not ride your bicycle, if the suspension fork bottoms
out. This could damage the suspension fork itself as well as the
frame.
When mounting a new front tyre, make sure there is enough
clearance between tyre and fork crown as the fork compresses
entirely. The front wheel might get jammed. Risk of an accident!
9.2.3 Adjusting the Travel
The travel of some suspension fork models allow travel adjustment. Some
models reducing the travel, make for an easier uphill riding. A reduced travel
may result in a modified spring characteristic of the fork making the fork
either softer or firmer. This can reduce the comfort of suspension.
With other models, changing the travel does not result in a modified spring
characteristic. The suspension fork provides an identic comfort of suspen-
sion with an however clearly reduced travel.
Do not ride with a reduced travel over rough terrain or downhill!
For more information on adjusting the travel, please read the
enclosed instructions of the suspension fork manufacturer!
9.2.4 Maintenance
Suspension forks are components of sophisticated design that require regu-
lar maintenance and care. This has led almost all suspension fork manufac-
turers to establish service centres where you can have your fork thoroughly
checked and overhauled at regular intervals according to use, e.g. once a
year. Be sure to have all bolted connections checked at regular intervals by
your bicycle dealer.
The following routines are essential for rear shock maintenance:
Make sure the sliding surfaces of the stanchion tubes are absolutely clean.
Clean the fork with water and a soft sponge after every ride (c). After wash-
ing your bicycle, spray the stanchion tubes of the suspension fork with a little
grease spray (d) or apply a very thin film of hydraulic oil.
a
b
c
d
76
77
9.2.2 Adjusting the Damping Control
The damping is adjusted by valves inside. These valves are designed to
modify the flow rate of the oil and hence the speed with which the fork legs
move in and out. In this way it is possible to optimise the bicycle’s reaction
to obstacles. Furthermore, any oscillatory movement while pedalling can be
reduced. For long uphill rides involving hard pedalling out of the saddle it is
advisable to activate the lockout mechanism. On the other hand, for down-
hill rides on uneven ground it may be better to open the damping system
more or less completely.
Suspension forks with adjustable damping are fitted with an adjusting knob
that is (mainly) red to slow down or accelerate the rebound movement (a).
The second knob, if available, is to adjust the speed of the compression
movement (b).
The adjusting process changes the flow rate of the oil contained within
the suspension fork as it passes through valves and chambers internally.
Some models provide for separate adjustment of compression and rebound
damping. Experience has shown that it is best to begin with the compres-
sion stage entirely open and to first adjust the rebound stage.
Adjusting the suspension fork is a delicate job, as even a small change on
the adjuster can have a big effect. Try approaching the exact setting you
need in increments no larger than a quarter turn from the “Open”-position.
Rebound is considered satisfactory when the suspension fork cycles once
after descending from a high kerb. If you turn the knob too far, the oil inside
will flow very slowly and the rebound will be at maximum. This will result in a
sluggish rebound movement, and the suspension fork will not recover when
exposed to a quick series of impacts.
Turning the adjusting knob in the other direction reduces rebound, making
the suspension fork rebound faster.
Once this is done, adjust the compression stage. This is to control the rate
at which the suspension fork compresses. Adjusting the compression ad-
juster towards the closed or maximum position will give you a firmer, less
active ride. Take your bicycle for a test ride on different kinds of surface (c).
If the suspension fork hits the end of its travel (bottom out) several times, you
will need to change its spring rate (d).
If the damping does not suit your needs, inspite of your adjusting, or if in the
case of coil spring elements you need more than three to four turns for the
initial spring tension, you may need to replace the suspension elements. The
replacement is a job best left to your bicycle dealer.
Do not actuate the lockout function (of the suspension fork)
when riding over rough terrain, but only when riding over
smooth terrain (roads, smooth tracks) ((a) p. 77).
a
b
c
d
Do not turn any screws on your suspension fork in the vague
hope of adjusting it somehow. You could release the fasten-
ing mechanism, thus causing an accident. All manufacturers
normally mark adjustment devices with a scale or “+” and “-“
signs (b).
Suspension fork manufacturers normally include instructions
with their deliveries. Read them carefully before changing any
settings or doing any maintenance work on your rear shock.
A too strong damping of the fork can result in a sluggish re-
bound movement with a suspension fork that will not recover
when exposed to a quick series of impacts. Risk of an acci-
dent! Do not ride your bicycle, if the suspension fork bottoms
out. This could damage the suspension fork itself as well as the
frame.
When mounting a new front tyre, make sure there is enough
clearance between tyre and fork crown as the fork compresses
entirely. The front wheel might get jammed. Risk of an accident!
9.2.3 Adjusting the Travel
The travel of some suspension fork models allow travel adjustment. Some
models reducing the travel, make for an easier uphill riding. A reduced travel
may result in a modified spring characteristic of the fork making the fork
either softer or firmer. This can reduce the comfort of suspension.
With other models, changing the travel does not result in a modified spring
characteristic. The suspension fork provides an identic comfort of suspen-
sion with an however clearly reduced travel.
Do not ride with a reduced travel over rough terrain or downhill!
For more information on adjusting the travel, please read the
enclosed instructions of the suspension fork manufacturer!
9.2.4 Maintenance
Suspension forks are components of sophisticated design that require regu-
lar maintenance and care. This has led almost all suspension fork manufac-
turers to establish service centres where you can have your fork thoroughly
checked and overhauled at regular intervals according to use, e.g. once a
year. Be sure to have all bolted connections checked at regular intervals by
your bicycle dealer.
The following routines are essential for rear shock maintenance:
Make sure the sliding surfaces of the stanchion tubes are absolutely clean.
Clean the fork with water and a soft sponge after every ride (c). After wash-
ing your bicycle, spray the stanchion tubes of the suspension fork with a little
grease spray (d) or apply a very thin film of hydraulic oil.
a
b
c
d


Do not use a steam jet or aggressive cleaning agents! Ask your bicycle
dealer for an appropriate lubricant.
If your fork has an elastomer filling, you should regularly clean and lubri-
cate the synthetic springs with a non-corrosive resin-free grease. Some fork
manufacturers provide special greases for fork maintenance. Be sure to fol-
low the recommendations of the manufacturers. Forks with air springs have
to be checked regularly for air pressure, as the air escapes over time .
Suspension forks are components of sophisticated design that
require regular maintenance and care. This has led almost all
suspension fork manufacturers to establish service centres
where you can have your fork thoroughly checked and over-
hauled at regular intervals according to use, e.g. once a year. Be
sure to have all bolted connections checked at regular intervals
by your bicycle dealer.
Suspension forks are constantly being sprayed with water and
dirt from the front wheel. Clean them with lots of water after
every ride.
Suspension elements are of sophisticated design. The mainte-
nance routines and above all the disassembly of the suspension
elements are jobs best left to your bicycle dealer.
Be sure to have your suspension fork checked by a service cen-
tre of the fork manufacturer once a year at least.
 
Full-suspension bicycles are equipped not only with a suspension fork but
also with movable rear stays which are sprung and damped by a shock
absorber . This feature gives you better control of your bicycle when rid-
ing cross-country or on rough road surfaces. It noticeably reduces the strain
on you and your bicycle caused by the mechanical shocks from the terrain.
With rear shocks this normally works with an air spring element or, less
frequently, with coil springs. Damping is usually controlled by the use of oil.
Depending on the system the rear shock has one or more bearing axles with
at least two bearings each.
For more information see the suspension glossary heading this
chapter.
 
Full-suspension bicycles sag a little when you sit on the saddle. This causes
the saddle to tilt a little backwards, an effect which can be compensated by
adjusting the position of the saddle. If you have trouble sitting, try lowering
the nose of the saddle a little compared to your usual position.
Full-suspension bicycles have a greater ground clearance than
bicycles without rear suspension. With a properly adjusted sad-
dle height you will not be able to reach the floor with your feet.
Set the saddle a little lower to begin with and practise getting
on and off the saddle.
a
b
c
d
 
In order to work optimally, the rear shock has to be adjusted to the weight of
the rider and its intended purpose. Be sure to have this adjustment carried
out by your bicycle dealer before delivery.
With an air spring element you have to inflate the rear shock before your first
ride . The rear shock adjustment depends on the rider’s weight and the
sitting posture.
Please bear in mind that the rear swing arm of the rear shock should sag a
little under the rider’s weight. When the rear wheel passes through a depres-
sion in the ground the spring can then extend and the suspension mecha-
nism will smooth out the uneven surface. If the selected air pressure is too
high, this effect is lost because the wheel will already be fully extended. This
means the loss of an important feature affecting both safety and comfort.
To aid measurement you can use the rubber o-ring often available on the
shock’s shaft, which slides further down the shaft as the rider gets on the
bicycle or slip a cable tie onto the thinner tube of the rear shock so that it
can still shift easily along the tube.
Cross-country and marathon racers usually run less sag than downhillers or
more comfort loving freeriders. For cross-country and marathon riding the
rear shock should yield by about 10-25 % of its total travel , for enduro
and freeriding by about 20-40 % .
To measure the maximum shock travel release all the air pressure from the
rear shock. Compress the rear shock completely. Then inflate the shock
absorber to the recommended air pressure and measure the distance be-
tween the rubber o-ring/cable tie and the upper edge of the shock body .
In the case of oil/air sprung rear shocks, the spring rate is adjusted by the air
pressure in the damper. The pressure must be checked at regular intervals
with a special shock pump which is normally made available by the rear
shock manufacturer. Please follow the recommendations of the manufac-
turer.
Ride your bicycle on different kinds of surface and check afterwards the
travel of the rubber o-ring/cable tie. The difference is the rear shock’s travel
you have used. If the rubber o-ring/cable tie has moved a few millimetres
only, your rear shock is too firm. Reduce the air pressure of air sprung rear
shocks or the initial spring tension of coil springs. If your rear shock is still too
firm, have the springs replaced.
a
b
c
d


Do not use a steam jet or aggressive cleaning agents! Ask your bicycle
dealer for an appropriate lubricant.
If your fork has an elastomer filling, you should regularly clean and lubri-
cate the synthetic springs with a non-corrosive resin-free grease. Some fork
manufacturers provide special greases for fork maintenance. Be sure to fol-
low the recommendations of the manufacturers. Forks with air springs have
to be checked regularly for air pressure, as the air escapes over time .
Suspension forks are components of sophisticated design that
require regular maintenance and care. This has led almost all
suspension fork manufacturers to establish service centres
where you can have your fork thoroughly checked and over-
hauled at regular intervals according to use, e.g. once a year. Be
sure to have all bolted connections checked at regular intervals
by your bicycle dealer.
Suspension forks are constantly being sprayed with water and
dirt from the front wheel. Clean them with lots of water after
every ride.
Suspension elements are of sophisticated design. The mainte-
nance routines and above all the disassembly of the suspension
elements are jobs best left to your bicycle dealer.
Be sure to have your suspension fork checked by a service cen-
tre of the fork manufacturer once a year at least.
 
Full-suspension bicycles are equipped not only with a suspension fork but
also with movable rear stays which are sprung and damped by a shock
absorber . This feature gives you better control of your bicycle when rid-
ing cross-country or on rough road surfaces. It noticeably reduces the strain
on you and your bicycle caused by the mechanical shocks from the terrain.
With rear shocks this normally works with an air spring element or, less
frequently, with coil springs. Damping is usually controlled by the use of oil.
Depending on the system the rear shock has one or more bearing axles with
at least two bearings each.
For more information see the suspension glossary heading this
chapter.
 
Full-suspension bicycles sag a little when you sit on the saddle. This causes
the saddle to tilt a little backwards, an effect which can be compensated by
adjusting the position of the saddle. If you have trouble sitting, try lowering
the nose of the saddle a little compared to your usual position.
Full-suspension bicycles have a greater ground clearance than
bicycles without rear suspension. With a properly adjusted sad-
dle height you will not be able to reach the floor with your feet.
Set the saddle a little lower to begin with and practise getting
on and off the saddle.
a
b
c
d
 
In order to work optimally, the rear shock has to be adjusted to the weight of
the rider and its intended purpose. Be sure to have this adjustment carried
out by your bicycle dealer before delivery.
With an air spring element you have to inflate the rear shock before your first
ride . The rear shock adjustment depends on the rider’s weight and the
sitting posture.
Please bear in mind that the rear swing arm of the rear shock should sag a
little under the rider’s weight. When the rear wheel passes through a depres-
sion in the ground the spring can then extend and the suspension mecha-
nism will smooth out the uneven surface. If the selected air pressure is too
high, this effect is lost because the wheel will already be fully extended. This
means the loss of an important feature affecting both safety and comfort.
To aid measurement you can use the rubber o-ring often available on the
shock’s shaft, which slides further down the shaft as the rider gets on the
bicycle or slip a cable tie onto the thinner tube of the rear shock so that it
can still shift easily along the tube.
Cross-country and marathon racers usually run less sag than downhillers or
more comfort loving freeriders. For cross-country and marathon riding the
rear shock should yield by about 10-25 % of its total travel , for enduro
and freeriding by about 20-40 % .
To measure the maximum shock travel release all the air pressure from the
rear shock. Compress the rear shock completely. Then inflate the shock
absorber to the recommended air pressure and measure the distance be-
tween the rubber o-ring/cable tie and the upper edge of the shock body .
In the case of oil/air sprung rear shocks, the spring rate is adjusted by the air
pressure in the damper. The pressure must be checked at regular intervals
with a special shock pump which is normally made available by the rear
shock manufacturer. Please follow the recommendations of the manufac-
turer.
Ride your bicycle on different kinds of surface and check afterwards the
travel of the rubber o-ring/cable tie. The difference is the rear shock’s travel
you have used. If the rubber o-ring/cable tie has moved a few millimetres
only, your rear shock is too firm. Reduce the air pressure of air sprung rear
shocks or the initial spring tension of coil springs. If your rear shock is still too
firm, have the springs replaced.
a
b
c
d
80
81
If the rubber o-ring/cable tie has moved along the entire travel range or if you
can hear the rear shock hit the end of its travel, the spring is too soft. In this
case the initial spring tension/pressure must be increased. If the adjustment
range is too small, have the springs replaced by your bicycle dealer. The
rear shock should not reach the end of its travel (bottom out), which can
usully be heard clearly. If the rear shock frequently reaches bottom out, it will
become damaged over time.
Check the pressure at regular intervals and follow the recommendations of
the manufacturer. If the available setting options do not cover your needs,
you will need to replace the springs or dampers. Many manufacturers have
tuning and retrofitting kits on offer. If you are in doubt or if you have any
questions, please contact your bicycle dealer! When replacing any parts be
sure to only use parts that bear the appropriate mark and, to be on the safe
side, original spare parts. Your bicycle dealer will be pleased to help you!
Almost all manufacturers deliver their dampers/rear shocks with
instructions. Read them carefully before changing any settings
or doing any maintenance work on your rear shock.
The rear shock should be set up and adjusted in such a way that
it does not reach the end of its travel (known as bottom out). A
spring rate which is too soft (or too low an air pressure) can usual-
ly be heard or felt as a “clunk” type noise. This noise is caused by
the sudden complete compression of the rear shock as it reaches
bottom out. If the rear shock frequently reaches bottom out, it will
become damaged over time, and so will the frame.
Rear shocks are mounted on full-suspension frames (a) in a way
that they absorb shocks from the terrain. If the damper is too
rigid and jammed, the terrain induced shocks pass directly into
the frame without any damping. The frame is normally not de-
signed to withstand such undamped stresses. If your bicycle
is equipped with a rear shock including lockout (b), you must
therefore keep in mind not to activate the lockout function when
riding over rough terrain, but only when riding over smooth ter-
rain (tarred roads, smooth tracks).
9.3.3 Adjusting the Damping Control
The damping is adjusted by valves inside. These valves are designed to
modify the flow rate of the oil and hence the speed with which the rear swing
arm moves in and out. In this way it is possible to optimise the bicycle’s
reaction to obstacles. Furthermore, any oscillatory movement of the rear
frame while pedalling can be reduced. For long uphill rides involving hard
pedalling in sitting it is advisable to eliminate the damping. For this purpose
some rear shock models are fitted with a lockout device. For downhill rides
on uneven ground the lockout mechanism must not be activated.
Rear shocks with adjustable damping are fitted with an adjusting knob that
is (mainly) red to slow down or accelerate the rebound movement (c+d).
The second knob, if available, is to adjust the speed of the compression
movement.
a
b
c
d
The adjusting process changes the flow rate of the oil contained within
the suspension fork as it passes through valves and chambers internally.
Some models provide for separate adjustment of compression and rebound
damping. Experience has shown that it is best to begin with the compres-
sion stage entirely open and to first adjust the rebound stage.
Adjusting the suspension fork is a delicate job, as even a small change on
the adjuster can have a big effect. Try approaching the exact setting you
need in increments no larger than a quarter turn from the “Open”-position.
Rebound is considered satisfactory when the rear frame cycles once after
descending from a high kerb. If you turn the knob too far, the oil inside will
flow very slowly and the rebound will be at maximum. This will result in a
sluggish rebound movement, and the rear shock will not recover when ex-
posed to a quick series of impacts.
Turning the adjusting knob in the other direction reduces rebound, making
the rear shock rebound faster. Once this is done, adjust the compression
stage. This is to control the rate at which the rear shock compresses. Ad-
justing the compression adjuster towards the closed or maximum position
will give you a firmer, less active ride. Take your mountain bike for a test ride
on different kinds of surface (a).
If the rear shock hits the end of its travel (bottom out) several times, you will
need to change its spring rate, i.e. to increase the pressure (b). Make sure
not to exceed the maximum pressure indicated on the rear shock.
If the damping does not suit your needs, inspite of your adjusting, or if in the
case of coil spring elements you need more than three to four turns for the
initial spring tension, you may need to replace the suspension elements. The
replacement is a job best left to your bicycle dealer.
Do not actuate the lockout function (c) (of the rear shock) when
riding over rough terrain, but only when riding over smooth ter-
rain (roads, smooth tracks).
Do not turn any screws on your rear shock in the vague hope of
adjusting it somehow. You could release the fastening mecha-
nism, thus causing an accident. All manufacturers normally
mark adjustment devices with a scale or “+” and “-“ signs.
Rear shock manufacturers normally include instructions with
their deliveries (d). Read them carefully before changing any
settings or doing any maintenance work on your rear shock.
A too strong damping can result in a sluggish rebound move-
ment with a rear shock that will not recover when exposed to a
quick series of impacts. Risk of an accident!
Do not ride your bicycle, if the rear shock reaches bottom out.
This could damage the rear shock itself as well as the frame.
a
b
c
d
80
81
If the rubber o-ring/cable tie has moved along the entire travel range or if you
can hear the rear shock hit the end of its travel, the spring is too soft. In this
case the initial spring tension/pressure must be increased. If the adjustment
range is too small, have the springs replaced by your bicycle dealer. The
rear shock should not reach the end of its travel (bottom out), which can
usully be heard clearly. If the rear shock frequently reaches bottom out, it will
become damaged over time.
Check the pressure at regular intervals and follow the recommendations of
the manufacturer. If the available setting options do not cover your needs,
you will need to replace the springs or dampers. Many manufacturers have
tuning and retrofitting kits on offer. If you are in doubt or if you have any
questions, please contact your bicycle dealer! When replacing any parts be
sure to only use parts that bear the appropriate mark and, to be on the safe
side, original spare parts. Your bicycle dealer will be pleased to help you!
Almost all manufacturers deliver their dampers/rear shocks with
instructions. Read them carefully before changing any settings
or doing any maintenance work on your rear shock.
The rear shock should be set up and adjusted in such a way that
it does not reach the end of its travel (known as bottom out). A
spring rate which is too soft (or too low an air pressure) can usual-
ly be heard or felt as a “clunk” type noise. This noise is caused by
the sudden complete compression of the rear shock as it reaches
bottom out. If the rear shock frequently reaches bottom out, it will
become damaged over time, and so will the frame.
Rear shocks are mounted on full-suspension frames (a) in a way
that they absorb shocks from the terrain. If the damper is too
rigid and jammed, the terrain induced shocks pass directly into
the frame without any damping. The frame is normally not de-
signed to withstand such undamped stresses. If your bicycle
is equipped with a rear shock including lockout (b), you must
therefore keep in mind not to activate the lockout function when
riding over rough terrain, but only when riding over smooth ter-
rain (tarred roads, smooth tracks).
9.3.3 Adjusting the Damping Control
The damping is adjusted by valves inside. These valves are designed to
modify the flow rate of the oil and hence the speed with which the rear swing
arm moves in and out. In this way it is possible to optimise the bicycle’s
reaction to obstacles. Furthermore, any oscillatory movement of the rear
frame while pedalling can be reduced. For long uphill rides involving hard
pedalling in sitting it is advisable to eliminate the damping. For this purpose
some rear shock models are fitted with a lockout device. For downhill rides
on uneven ground the lockout mechanism must not be activated.
Rear shocks with adjustable damping are fitted with an adjusting knob that
is (mainly) red to slow down or accelerate the rebound movement (c+d).
The second knob, if available, is to adjust the speed of the compression
movement.
a
b
c
d
The adjusting process changes the flow rate of the oil contained within
the suspension fork as it passes through valves and chambers internally.
Some models provide for separate adjustment of compression and rebound
damping. Experience has shown that it is best to begin with the compres-
sion stage entirely open and to first adjust the rebound stage.
Adjusting the suspension fork is a delicate job, as even a small change on
the adjuster can have a big effect. Try approaching the exact setting you
need in increments no larger than a quarter turn from the “Open”-position.
Rebound is considered satisfactory when the rear frame cycles once after
descending from a high kerb. If you turn the knob too far, the oil inside will
flow very slowly and the rebound will be at maximum. This will result in a
sluggish rebound movement, and the rear shock will not recover when ex-
posed to a quick series of impacts.
Turning the adjusting knob in the other direction reduces rebound, making
the rear shock rebound faster. Once this is done, adjust the compression
stage. This is to control the rate at which the rear shock compresses. Ad-
justing the compression adjuster towards the closed or maximum position
will give you a firmer, less active ride. Take your mountain bike for a test ride
on different kinds of surface (a).
If the rear shock hits the end of its travel (bottom out) several times, you will
need to change its spring rate, i.e. to increase the pressure (b). Make sure
not to exceed the maximum pressure indicated on the rear shock.
If the damping does not suit your needs, inspite of your adjusting, or if in the
case of coil spring elements you need more than three to four turns for the
initial spring tension, you may need to replace the suspension elements. The
replacement is a job best left to your bicycle dealer.
Do not actuate the lockout function (c) (of the rear shock) when
riding over rough terrain, but only when riding over smooth ter-
rain (roads, smooth tracks).
Do not turn any screws on your rear shock in the vague hope of
adjusting it somehow. You could release the fastening mecha-
nism, thus causing an accident. All manufacturers normally
mark adjustment devices with a scale or “+” and “-“ signs.
Rear shock manufacturers normally include instructions with
their deliveries (d). Read them carefully before changing any
settings or doing any maintenance work on your rear shock.
A too strong damping can result in a sluggish rebound move-
ment with a rear shock that will not recover when exposed to a
quick series of impacts. Risk of an accident!
Do not ride your bicycle, if the rear shock reaches bottom out.
This could damage the rear shock itself as well as the frame.
a
b
c
d


 
Rear shocks and rear frames are components of sophisticated design that
require regular maintenance and care. This has led almost all rear shock
manufacturers to establish service centres where you can have your rear
shock thoroughly checked and overhauled at regular intervals according to
use, e.g. once a year. Be sure to have all bolted connections checked at
regular intervals by your bicycle dealer.
The following routines are essential for rear shock maintenance:
Rear shocks with air springs have to be checked regularly for air pressure,
as the air escapes over time. Make sure the sliding surface of the piston rod
is absolutely clean. Clean the rear shock and rear frame, in particular the
bearings, with water and a soft sponge after every ride . After washing
your bicycle, spray the piston rod of the rear shock and the bearing areas
with a little grease spray or apply a very thin film of hydraulic oil.
Do not use a steam jet or aggressive cleaning agents! Ask your bicycle
dealer for an appropriate lubricant.
Regularly check the rear swing arm for side-to-side play and the bearing of
the rear shock for vertical play.
To check the rear swing arm for play, lift the mountain bike by the saddle
and try to move the rear wheel from side to side. If necessary, ask a helper
to keep the front part of the frame still while you do this.
To check the rear shock for play place the rear wheel gently on the ground
and lift it again a little . Check for any rattling. If you find any play, ask your
bicycle dealer to eliminate it without delay.
Rear shocks are constantly being sprayed with water and dirt
from the rear wheel. Clean them with lots of water after every
ride.
Suspension rear frames and rear shocks are components of so-
phisticated design that require regular maintenance and care.
This has led almost all rear shock manufacturers to establish
service centres where you can have your rear shock thoroughly
checked and overhauled at regular intervals according to use,
e.g. once a year. Be sure to have all bolted connections checked
at regular intervals by your bicycle dealer.
Suspension elements are of sophisticated design. The mainte-
nance routines and above all the disassembly of the suspension
elements are jobs best left to your bicycle dealer. Be sure to
have your rear shock checked by a service centre of the rear
shock manufacturer once a year at least.
a
b
c
d
 
Suspension seat posts  enhance the cyclist’s comfort when riding on
uneven ground. They can be used on roads and field tracks as well as off-
road. They are, however, not suitable for all mountain, enduro, dirt, downhill
riding or freeriding.
 
Suspension seat posts are usually designed for a cyclist of average weight,
i.e. 75 kilograms. Their shock-absorbing properties can be altered either by
adjusting the initial spring tension and/or by exchanging the springs.
Seat post manufacturers normally include instructions with their
deliveries . Read them carefully before changing any settings
or doing any maintenance work on your rear shock.
 
To check the seat post for side-to-side play, take hold of the saddle at both
ends and try to move it from side to side .
If you notice any play, have it reduced by your bicycle dealer.
Have the seat post checked once a year by your bicycle dealer.
a
b
c
d


 
Rear shocks and rear frames are components of sophisticated design that
require regular maintenance and care. This has led almost all rear shock
manufacturers to establish service centres where you can have your rear
shock thoroughly checked and overhauled at regular intervals according to
use, e.g. once a year. Be sure to have all bolted connections checked at
regular intervals by your bicycle dealer.
The following routines are essential for rear shock maintenance:
Rear shocks with air springs have to be checked regularly for air pressure,
as the air escapes over time. Make sure the sliding surface of the piston rod
is absolutely clean. Clean the rear shock and rear frame, in particular the
bearings, with water and a soft sponge after every ride . After washing
your bicycle, spray the piston rod of the rear shock and the bearing areas
with a little grease spray or apply a very thin film of hydraulic oil.
Do not use a steam jet or aggressive cleaning agents! Ask your bicycle
dealer for an appropriate lubricant.
Regularly check the rear swing arm for side-to-side play and the bearing of
the rear shock for vertical play.
To check the rear swing arm for play, lift the mountain bike by the saddle
and try to move the rear wheel from side to side. If necessary, ask a helper
to keep the front part of the frame still while you do this.
To check the rear shock for play place the rear wheel gently on the ground
and lift it again a little . Check for any rattling. If you find any play, ask your
bicycle dealer to eliminate it without delay.
Rear shocks are constantly being sprayed with water and dirt
from the rear wheel. Clean them with lots of water after every
ride.
Suspension rear frames and rear shocks are components of so-
phisticated design that require regular maintenance and care.
This has led almost all rear shock manufacturers to establish
service centres where you can have your rear shock thoroughly
checked and overhauled at regular intervals according to use,
e.g. once a year. Be sure to have all bolted connections checked
at regular intervals by your bicycle dealer.
Suspension elements are of sophisticated design. The mainte-
nance routines and above all the disassembly of the suspension
elements are jobs best left to your bicycle dealer. Be sure to
have your rear shock checked by a service centre of the rear
shock manufacturer once a year at least.
a
b
c
d
 
Suspension seat posts  enhance the cyclist’s comfort when riding on
uneven ground. They can be used on roads and field tracks as well as off-
road. They are, however, not suitable for all mountain, enduro, dirt, downhill
riding or freeriding.
 
Suspension seat posts are usually designed for a cyclist of average weight,
i.e. 75 kilograms. Their shock-absorbing properties can be altered either by
adjusting the initial spring tension and/or by exchanging the springs.
Seat post manufacturers normally include instructions with their
deliveries . Read them carefully before changing any settings
or doing any maintenance work on your rear shock.
 
To check the seat post for side-to-side play, take hold of the saddle at both
ends and try to move it from side to side .
If you notice any play, have it reduced by your bicycle dealer.
Have the seat post checked once a year by your bicycle dealer.
a
b
c
d
84
85
10 Carbon – Important Information
Special characteristics of carbon components made of carbon-fibre-rein-
forced plastics (a), also referred to as carbon or CRP, need to be taken into
account.
Carbon is an extremely strong material which combines high resistance with
low weight. After overstress, however, carbon parts, unlike metal parts, do
not necessarily show durable or visible deformation even though some of its
fibres may be damaged.
This makes it very dangerous to continue using the part after an impact or
undue stress, as it may fail without previous warning thereby causing an
accident with unforeseeable consequences. We therefore recommend that
you have the carbon part, or to be certain, the entire bicycle checked by
your bicycle dealer after every incident, such as e.g. a crash. They may con-
tact our after-sales department in order to make sure you can have absolute
confidence in your bicycle.
For safety reasons, damaged parts made of carbon (b) must never be
aligned or repaired. Replace a damaged part without delay! Prevent further
use by taking appropriate measures, i.e. saw the component into pieces.
Parts made of carbon should under no circumstances be exposed to exces-
sive heat. Therefore, never have a carbon component enamelled or powder-
coated. The temperatures required for doing so could destroy it. Do not
leave carbon fibre parts near a source of heat or in your car during hot or
sunny weather.
Carbon parts have, like all lightweight bicycle parts, a limited service life. For
this reason, change stem and handlebars at regular intervals (e.g. every 3
years), even if they have not experienced any undue stress, such as e.g. an
accident.
Most clamps of bicycle carrier systems are potential sources of
damage to large-diameter frame tubes (c)! As a result thereof
carbon frames can fail during use without previous warning.
Suitable, special-purpose models are, however, available in the
car accessory trade. Inform yourself there or ask your bicycle
dealer for advice.
When you intend to transport your bicycle in the boot of your car, be sure to
protect the bicycle or the carbon frame and parts. Blankets, foam tubes or
the like are a suitable padding to protect the sensitive material from damage.
a
b
c
d
Do not clamp a carbon frame or seat post in the holding jaws
of a workstand! The parts may sustain damage. Mount a sturdy
(aluminium) seat post instead and use it to clamp the frame
((d) p. 84), or chose a work stand that holds the frame at three
points inside the frame triangle (a) or that clamps the fork and
bottom bracket shell.
Always park your bicycle carefully and make sure it does not topple over.
Carbon frames and parts may already sustain damage by simply toppling
over.
If carbon parts on your bicycle produce any creaking or cracking
noises or show any external sign of damage, such as gouges,
cracks (b), dents, discolourations etc., do not use the bicycle
any longer. Please contact your bicycle dealer immediately; he
will check the part thoroughly!
Make sure all carbon clamping areas are absolutely free of
grease and other lubricants. Grease would penetrate the sur-
face of the carbon material, reducing the coefficient of friction, a
reliable clamping within the prescribed torques being hence no
longer provided. Once greased, carbon parts may never again
ensure reliable clamping. Use special XLC carbon assembly
paste instead (c).
Protect the exposed areas of your carbon frame (e.g. the un-
derside of the down tube) against rubbing cables or stone chips
with special pads your bicycle dealer keeps for sale (d).
Do not combine carbon handlebars with clip-on bars, aero bars
or bar ends, unless they have been specifically approved! Risk
of breakage!
a
b
c
d
84
85
10 Carbon – Important Information
Special characteristics of carbon components made of carbon-fibre-rein-
forced plastics (a), also referred to as carbon or CRP, need to be taken into
account.
Carbon is an extremely strong material which combines high resistance with
low weight. After overstress, however, carbon parts, unlike metal parts, do
not necessarily show durable or visible deformation even though some of its
fibres may be damaged.
This makes it very dangerous to continue using the part after an impact or
undue stress, as it may fail without previous warning thereby causing an
accident with unforeseeable consequences. We therefore recommend that
you have the carbon part, or to be certain, the entire bicycle checked by
your bicycle dealer after every incident, such as e.g. a crash. They may con-
tact our after-sales department in order to make sure you can have absolute
confidence in your bicycle.
For safety reasons, damaged parts made of carbon (b) must never be
aligned or repaired. Replace a damaged part without delay! Prevent further
use by taking appropriate measures, i.e. saw the component into pieces.
Parts made of carbon should under no circumstances be exposed to exces-
sive heat. Therefore, never have a carbon component enamelled or powder-
coated. The temperatures required for doing so could destroy it. Do not
leave carbon fibre parts near a source of heat or in your car during hot or
sunny weather.
Carbon parts have, like all lightweight bicycle parts, a limited service life. For
this reason, change stem and handlebars at regular intervals (e.g. every 3
years), even if they have not experienced any undue stress, such as e.g. an
accident.
Most clamps of bicycle carrier systems are potential sources of
damage to large-diameter frame tubes (c)! As a result thereof
carbon frames can fail during use without previous warning.
Suitable, special-purpose models are, however, available in the
car accessory trade. Inform yourself there or ask your bicycle
dealer for advice.
When you intend to transport your bicycle in the boot of your car, be sure to
protect the bicycle or the carbon frame and parts. Blankets, foam tubes or
the like are a suitable padding to protect the sensitive material from damage.
a
b
c
d
Do not clamp a carbon frame or seat post in the holding jaws
of a workstand! The parts may sustain damage. Mount a sturdy
(aluminium) seat post instead and use it to clamp the frame
((d) p. 84), or chose a work stand that holds the frame at three
points inside the frame triangle (a) or that clamps the fork and
bottom bracket shell.
Always park your bicycle carefully and make sure it does not topple over.
Carbon frames and parts may already sustain damage by simply toppling
over.
If carbon parts on your bicycle produce any creaking or cracking
noises or show any external sign of damage, such as gouges,
cracks (b), dents, discolourations etc., do not use the bicycle
any longer. Please contact your bicycle dealer immediately; he
will check the part thoroughly!
Make sure all carbon clamping areas are absolutely free of
grease and other lubricants. Grease would penetrate the sur-
face of the carbon material, reducing the coefficient of friction, a
reliable clamping within the prescribed torques being hence no
longer provided. Once greased, carbon parts may never again
ensure reliable clamping. Use special XLC carbon assembly
paste instead (c).
Protect the exposed areas of your carbon frame (e.g. the un-
derside of the down tube) against rubbing cables or stone chips
with special pads your bicycle dealer keeps for sale (d).
Do not combine carbon handlebars with clip-on bars, aero bars
or bar ends, unless they have been specifically approved! Risk
of breakage!
a
b
c
d
86
87
11 Dirt-, Freeride-, Downhill-Bikes
– Special Features
Not all mountain bikes that look like a dirt, freeride or downhill
bike are actually sports equipment! Mountain bikes of the dirt
line (DRT) are not suitable for hard use!
Dirt biking, freeriding, fourcross, dual slalom and downhill riding are among
the most challenging sports that you can perform. Jumps, riding the stairs,
downhill races and sharp bends in difficult or extremely rough terrain etc. are
an undue stress for rider and material and require a highly durable bicycle
with full-suspension. A cross-country, touring or marathon mountain bike
would fail under such undue stress and cause a serious accident. Ask your
bicycle dealer for a bicycle that is suitable for the type of sport you intend
to perform.
Dirt, fourcross, dual slalom, downhill and freeride bicycles are
true-bred sports bicycles (a+b). For your own safety, do not
overestimate your cycling skills. Please note that though look-
ing easy the tricks of a professional (c) are hazardous to your life
and limb. Always protect yourself with appropriate and suitable
clothing (d).
Even though the above-mentioned specialized types of bicycles are built for
sport cycling and hard use, their resistance to stress is limited.
In particular the following actions may cause an undue stress for the material
and result in a failure:
· Incorrect jumps on sharp edges, jumps with a landing on the front wheel,
too short jumps or tricks that are not completed before the landing
· Landing on the counter slope or between two slopes; on flat terrain
jumps with rotation crossways to the track or with hands not on the
handlebars/feet off the pedals
Be sure to also avoid the following, as this would put too much stress on the
material resulting in premature wear or failure:
· Undue stress for the chain by riding with too low chain tension
· Inappropriate grinding (sliding on chain or chainring)
· Undue stress for the wheels by riding with too low air pressure
· Undue stress for the frame and bicycle parts by riding with a too soft
suspension or sliding on frame and drop-outs
Due to the specific intended use, some dirt bikes are fitted with
only one brake.
a
b
c
d
11.1 Adjusting the Correct Saddle Height
Dirt, freeride, dual slalom and downhill bicycles etc. require different saddle
adjustments, according to the specific use. The seating position cannot be
compared to that on other bicycles; it is maximum control and movability
that counts when riding one of the aforementioned bicycles.
When you set off for a long cycling tour, the saddle should be set to a height
which gives maximum pedalling comfort and efficiency. When pedalling, the
ball of your foot should be positioned above the centre of the pedal spindles
(a). With your feet in this position you should not be able to stretch your legs
completely straight at the lowest point, otherwise your pedalling will become
awkward.
You can check the height of your saddle in the following, simple way. This
is best done wearing flat-soled shoes. Sit on the saddle and put one of your
heels on the pedal at its lowest point (b). In this position your leg should be
fully stretched and your hips should remain horizontal.
For dirt biking, freeriding, downhill racing etc. the saddle is set to a very low
height (c) with a rearward tilt (d). Ask your trainer, a competent person in
your club or your bicycle dealer for the correct seating position.
A lower saddle is advisable in particular for steep downhill riding
by mountain bike. However, prolonged riding with a low saddle
may cause knee trouble.
For detailed instructions regarding saddle adjustment see chapter “Adjust-
ing the Bicycle to the Rider”.
After only one season these types of mountain bike may be so
worn that essential and/or supporting parts will already need re-
placing. Have bicycles of this type thoroughly checked by your
bicycle dealer at least every 3 to 4 months.
a
b
c
d
86
87
11 Dirt-, Freeride-, Downhill-Bikes
– Special Features
Not all mountain bikes that look like a dirt, freeride or downhill
bike are actually sports equipment! Mountain bikes of the dirt
line (DRT) are not suitable for hard use!
Dirt biking, freeriding, fourcross, dual slalom and downhill riding are among
the most challenging sports that you can perform. Jumps, riding the stairs,
downhill races and sharp bends in difficult or extremely rough terrain etc. are
an undue stress for rider and material and require a highly durable bicycle
with full-suspension. A cross-country, touring or marathon mountain bike
would fail under such undue stress and cause a serious accident. Ask your
bicycle dealer for a bicycle that is suitable for the type of sport you intend
to perform.
Dirt, fourcross, dual slalom, downhill and freeride bicycles are
true-bred sports bicycles (a+b). For your own safety, do not
overestimate your cycling skills. Please note that though look-
ing easy the tricks of a professional (c) are hazardous to your life
and limb. Always protect yourself with appropriate and suitable
clothing (d).
Even though the above-mentioned specialized types of bicycles are built for
sport cycling and hard use, their resistance to stress is limited.
In particular the following actions may cause an undue stress for the material
and result in a failure:
· Incorrect jumps on sharp edges, jumps with a landing on the front wheel,
too short jumps or tricks that are not completed before the landing
· Landing on the counter slope or between two slopes; on flat terrain
jumps with rotation crossways to the track or with hands not on the
handlebars/feet off the pedals
Be sure to also avoid the following, as this would put too much stress on the
material resulting in premature wear or failure:
· Undue stress for the chain by riding with too low chain tension
· Inappropriate grinding (sliding on chain or chainring)
· Undue stress for the wheels by riding with too low air pressure
· Undue stress for the frame and bicycle parts by riding with a too soft
suspension or sliding on frame and drop-outs
Due to the specific intended use, some dirt bikes are fitted with
only one brake.
a
b
c
d
11.1 Adjusting the Correct Saddle Height
Dirt, freeride, dual slalom and downhill bicycles etc. require different saddle
adjustments, according to the specific use. The seating position cannot be
compared to that on other bicycles; it is maximum control and movability
that counts when riding one of the aforementioned bicycles.
When you set off for a long cycling tour, the saddle should be set to a height
which gives maximum pedalling comfort and efficiency. When pedalling, the
ball of your foot should be positioned above the centre of the pedal spindles
(a). With your feet in this position you should not be able to stretch your legs
completely straight at the lowest point, otherwise your pedalling will become
awkward.
You can check the height of your saddle in the following, simple way. This
is best done wearing flat-soled shoes. Sit on the saddle and put one of your
heels on the pedal at its lowest point (b). In this position your leg should be
fully stretched and your hips should remain horizontal.
For dirt biking, freeriding, downhill racing etc. the saddle is set to a very low
height (c) with a rearward tilt (d). Ask your trainer, a competent person in
your club or your bicycle dealer for the correct seating position.
A lower saddle is advisable in particular for steep downhill riding
by mountain bike. However, prolonged riding with a low saddle
may cause knee trouble.
For detailed instructions regarding saddle adjustment see chapter “Adjust-
ing the Bicycle to the Rider”.
After only one season these types of mountain bike may be so
worn that essential and/or supporting parts will already need re-
placing. Have bicycles of this type thoroughly checked by your
bicycle dealer at least every 3 to 4 months.
a
b
c
d
88
89
12 Lighting
Anyone cycling on public roads is required by law to have a properly working
set of lights (a), see chapter “Legal Requirements for Riding on public
Roads”. It is important to be familiar with the design of the lighting so that
you can repair it yourself in the event of a failure.
The dynamo (generator) produces the current required for operating the light
bulbs. It has two cables attached to it, one running to the front light and the
other to the rear light and back.
12.1 Bottle Dynamo
Please mount the bottle dynamo (b) with its drive shaft vertical to the wheel
axle and with its roller in full contact with the tyre. The bottle dynamo can be
mounted to the front or rear wheel. The dynamo is engaged with a lever or
a push button. When engaged it is tilted with its roller against the sidewall of
the tyre. To disengage the dynamo it is tilted back in its initial position where
it locks in place.
Engage the bottle dynamo only while stationary and make sure
it keeps clear of the spokes! Caution: In wet conditions the dy-
namo may be less effective.
12.2 Hub Dynamo
Hub dynamos (c) are built into the hub of the front wheel. They are virtually
non-wearing and extremely effective. Some models are switched on elec-
tronically, some others mechanically. Hub dynamos are either engaged by a
lever at the handlebars or directly at the front lamp. Other models offer the
comfort of being switched on and off automatically by means of a sensor.
In case you need more information on your lighting, contact
your bicycle dealer.
12.3 Troubleshooting
After punctures the second most common malfunction is lighting failure.
First inspect the front and rear light bulbs. Check whether the filaments are
intact. Bulbs with a black tint are a sure indication of a defect.
On road racing bicycles fitted with battery-powered lighting (d)
a failure is usually due to flat batteries. Therefore, check the
charge state of the batteries at regular intervals or take replace-
ments with you.
a
b
c
d
Check the contacts and the sockets in the lamp housings of the front and
rear lights (a+b). White or greenish stains are a sign of corrosion. Remove
the corrosion layer with a screwdriver, emery cloth or the like until the con-
tact surfaces are shiny again.
If your bicycle is fitted with a dynamo lighting, inspect the cables along their
entire length and check them for defects. Check all contact points. Pin and
socket connectors tend to corrode if exposed to salt and rain. Take the con-
nectors apart and stick them together again.
If you still cannot find the cause of the trouble, try supplying the current using
a battery (4.5 volt battery). If the lamps light up, the dynamo itself might be
the cause of the trouble.
If the lamps do not light up, move the battery closer to the lamps step by
step looking out for the moment when a current starts to flow. If that still
does not help, contact your bicycle dealer.
An incomplete or inoperative set of lights is not only against
the law, it is also a hazard to your life. Cyclists riding in the dark
without a light are liable to be overlooked and at risk of getting
involved in serious accidents!
a
b
88
89
12 Lighting
Anyone cycling on public roads is required by law to have a properly working
set of lights (a), see chapter “Legal Requirements for Riding on public
Roads”. It is important to be familiar with the design of the lighting so that
you can repair it yourself in the event of a failure.
The dynamo (generator) produces the current required for operating the light
bulbs. It has two cables attached to it, one running to the front light and the
other to the rear light and back.
12.1 Bottle Dynamo
Please mount the bottle dynamo (b) with its drive shaft vertical to the wheel
axle and with its roller in full contact with the tyre. The bottle dynamo can be
mounted to the front or rear wheel. The dynamo is engaged with a lever or
a push button. When engaged it is tilted with its roller against the sidewall of
the tyre. To disengage the dynamo it is tilted back in its initial position where
it locks in place.
Engage the bottle dynamo only while stationary and make sure
it keeps clear of the spokes! Caution: In wet conditions the dy-
namo may be less effective.
12.2 Hub Dynamo
Hub dynamos (c) are built into the hub of the front wheel. They are virtually
non-wearing and extremely effective. Some models are switched on elec-
tronically, some others mechanically. Hub dynamos are either engaged by a
lever at the handlebars or directly at the front lamp. Other models offer the
comfort of being switched on and off automatically by means of a sensor.
In case you need more information on your lighting, contact
your bicycle dealer.
12.3 Troubleshooting
After punctures the second most common malfunction is lighting failure.
First inspect the front and rear light bulbs. Check whether the filaments are
intact. Bulbs with a black tint are a sure indication of a defect.
On road racing bicycles fitted with battery-powered lighting (d)
a failure is usually due to flat batteries. Therefore, check the
charge state of the batteries at regular intervals or take replace-
ments with you.
a
b
c
d
Check the contacts and the sockets in the lamp housings of the front and
rear lights (a+b). White or greenish stains are a sign of corrosion. Remove
the corrosion layer with a screwdriver, emery cloth or the like until the con-
tact surfaces are shiny again.
If your bicycle is fitted with a dynamo lighting, inspect the cables along their
entire length and check them for defects. Check all contact points. Pin and
socket connectors tend to corrode if exposed to salt and rain. Take the con-
nectors apart and stick them together again.
If you still cannot find the cause of the trouble, try supplying the current using
a battery (4.5 volt battery). If the lamps light up, the dynamo itself might be
the cause of the trouble.
If the lamps do not light up, move the battery closer to the lamps step by
step looking out for the moment when a current starts to flow. If that still
does not help, contact your bicycle dealer.
An incomplete or inoperative set of lights is not only against
the law, it is also a hazard to your life. Cyclists riding in the dark
without a light are liable to be overlooked and at risk of getting
involved in serious accidents!
a
b


13 Kids’ Bicycles
 
Children are among the most vulnerable road user groups, not only because
of their lack of experience and practice, but also for the simple reason that
they are smaller and may therefore have difficulties overseeing things and
be easily overlooked.
If you want your child to use his/her bicycle on the road, you should be will-
ing to invest time in road safety instruction and help him/her improve his/her
riding skills. Children are not as observant as adults, and you should there-
fore get into the routine of checking the bicycle and performing adjustments
and maintenance as necessary. If you should have any questions, your local
bicycle dealer will be pleased to help you.
Bear in mind that it is your responsibility to supervise your child on his/her
first rides.
Inform yourself about the traffic rules in your country. They vary from country
to country. For example, in Germany, children must use the pavement 
until they are eight years old and they are permitted to do so until the age
of ten!
It is essential that your child has good control of his/her bicycle before
riding on public roads. As a first step in this direction we recommend giving
your child a scooter or a pedalless bicycle so that they can train their sense
of balance.
This being accomplished you will need to make your child familiar with the
functioning of the brakes and gears before you let him or her sit on the bike.
Find a place away from the road, ideally a backyard or park, where you can
practise braking and shifting gears with your child under your supervision.
Once your child has progressed to a point where they can ride in traffic,
teach them how to cross kerbs and railway tracks, i.e. to cross these ob-
stacles, if possible, at right angle. Your child should also learn to look ahead
and back for any danger before taking this kind of obstacle.
Set a good example by using cycle lanes wherever possible. It is also advis-
able to let your child take part in road safety lessons offered at schools or by
local clubs and associations.
Make sure the child always wears a properly fitting cycling hel-
met and well visible, i.e. bright, clothing. It is also advisable
to wear reflector stripes to increase visibility.
a
b
c
d
 
Adjusting the bicycle to the bodily proportions of a child is even more im-
portant than in the case of an adult. In determining the height of the saddle
you will need to find a compromise that allows the child to reach the ground
with both feet when sitting on the saddle while at the same time giving them
enough space for pedalling .
Set the saddle to a height where the child’s leg is fully stretched when the
heel rests on the pedal at its lowest point.
As a second test, make sure the child’s knee is slightly bent  when the ball
of the foot rests on the pedal in this position. During both tests the child’s
pelvis should rest horizontally on the saddle (when viewed from behind the
seated rider). As a final check, see whether the child can still reach the
ground with both feet at the same time when sitting on the saddle. If this is
not the case, lower the saddle a little. For more information on how to adjust
the height of the saddle see chapter .
Children and adolescents need to have the height of their sad-
dle checked at least every 3 months!
Another condition that can impair the child’s riding comfort, is when the
handlebars are too far away from the saddle. For this reason, the saddle has
been designed to allow fore-to-aft adjustment. Using a spanner or an Allen
key, unscrew the bolt or nut of the saddle clamp at the top of the seat post
by one to two turns.
Do not unscrew the nut all the way, otherwise the whole mechanism may
come apart. Push the saddle into the desired position and tighten the bolt
or nut again. Make sure the saddle is horizontal and the ratchet mechanism
in the saddle clamp engages when you tighten the bolt or nut. Try to tilt the
saddle a little to determine whether the mechanism has engaged correctly.
If this is the case, screw the nut tight.
If your saddle has another clamping system, read chapter 
.
Make a final check on how securely the saddle is fastened by firmly trying
to tilt it.
Now recheck whether the child can easily reach the brake levers .
If he or she cannot, adjust the brake lever  as described in chapters 
 and .
It is important to tell the child when they practise braking that
they should ride more slowly in wet conditions because the
road becomes slippery and the brakes can be less effective.
a
b
c
d


13 Kids’ Bicycles
 
Children are among the most vulnerable road user groups, not only because
of their lack of experience and practice, but also for the simple reason that
they are smaller and may therefore have difficulties overseeing things and
be easily overlooked.
If you want your child to use his/her bicycle on the road, you should be will-
ing to invest time in road safety instruction and help him/her improve his/her
riding skills. Children are not as observant as adults, and you should there-
fore get into the routine of checking the bicycle and performing adjustments
and maintenance as necessary. If you should have any questions, your local
bicycle dealer will be pleased to help you.
Bear in mind that it is your responsibility to supervise your child on his/her
first rides.
Inform yourself about the traffic rules in your country. They vary from country
to country. For example, in Germany, children must use the pavement 
until they are eight years old and they are permitted to do so until the age
of ten!
It is essential that your child has good control of his/her bicycle before
riding on public roads. As a first step in this direction we recommend giving
your child a scooter or a pedalless bicycle so that they can train their sense
of balance.
This being accomplished you will need to make your child familiar with the
functioning of the brakes and gears before you let him or her sit on the bike.
Find a place away from the road, ideally a backyard or park, where you can
practise braking and shifting gears with your child under your supervision.
Once your child has progressed to a point where they can ride in traffic,
teach them how to cross kerbs and railway tracks, i.e. to cross these ob-
stacles, if possible, at right angle. Your child should also learn to look ahead
and back for any danger before taking this kind of obstacle.
Set a good example by using cycle lanes wherever possible. It is also advis-
able to let your child take part in road safety lessons offered at schools or by
local clubs and associations.
Make sure the child always wears a properly fitting cycling hel-
met and well visible, i.e. bright, clothing. It is also advisable
to wear reflector stripes to increase visibility.
a
b
c
d
 
Adjusting the bicycle to the bodily proportions of a child is even more im-
portant than in the case of an adult. In determining the height of the saddle
you will need to find a compromise that allows the child to reach the ground
with both feet when sitting on the saddle while at the same time giving them
enough space for pedalling .
Set the saddle to a height where the child’s leg is fully stretched when the
heel rests on the pedal at its lowest point.
As a second test, make sure the child’s knee is slightly bent  when the ball
of the foot rests on the pedal in this position. During both tests the child’s
pelvis should rest horizontally on the saddle (when viewed from behind the
seated rider). As a final check, see whether the child can still reach the
ground with both feet at the same time when sitting on the saddle. If this is
not the case, lower the saddle a little. For more information on how to adjust
the height of the saddle see chapter .
Children and adolescents need to have the height of their sad-
dle checked at least every 3 months!
Another condition that can impair the child’s riding comfort, is when the
handlebars are too far away from the saddle. For this reason, the saddle has
been designed to allow fore-to-aft adjustment. Using a spanner or an Allen
key, unscrew the bolt or nut of the saddle clamp at the top of the seat post
by one to two turns.
Do not unscrew the nut all the way, otherwise the whole mechanism may
come apart. Push the saddle into the desired position and tighten the bolt
or nut again. Make sure the saddle is horizontal and the ratchet mechanism
in the saddle clamp engages when you tighten the bolt or nut. Try to tilt the
saddle a little to determine whether the mechanism has engaged correctly.
If this is the case, screw the nut tight.
If your saddle has another clamping system, read chapter 
.
Make a final check on how securely the saddle is fastened by firmly trying
to tilt it.
Now recheck whether the child can easily reach the brake levers .
If he or she cannot, adjust the brake lever  as described in chapters 
 and .
It is important to tell the child when they practise braking that
they should ride more slowly in wet conditions because the
road becomes slippery and the brakes can be less effective.
a
b
c
d


Get into the habit of doing the checks as described in chapter 
 together with your child . In this way, the child will learn to
handle the bicycle properly and you will be able to detect any defects that
have developed during use. Encourage your child to tell you, if anything
should not be working properly on their bicycle. Rectify the fault immediately
or take the bicycle to your bicycle dealer for repair, if you are in any doubt.
Children can be vain. Make sure you buy a tested cycling helmet
that the child feels happy with. Take your child with you to
make sure you buy one which is comfortable and fits correctly.
This will increase the chances that the helmet is actually worn,
which might one day be a life-saver! Make sure the helmet is
always fastened!
Take care your child is wearing the helmet while cycling only.
For example, wearing the helmet at a park or playground can be
hazardous; the helmet may get caught on features or obstacles.
a
b
14 Adjusting the Bicycle to the Rider
Your body measurements are decisive for the frame size of your bicycle.
Make particularly sure there is enough space between your crotch and the
top tube so that you do not hurt yourself, if you have to get off your bicycle
quickly .
If you have a very small frame, there may be a danger of your
foot colliding with the front wheel. Therefore, make sure your
cleats are properly adjusted.
By choosing a specific type of bicycle you roughly determine the posture
you will be riding in . However, some components are designed in a way
that you can adjust them to your proportions to a certain degree, such as
seat post, stem and brake levers. Contact your bicycle dealer. He will see to
your wishes the next time you leave your bicycle at the workshop, e.g. for
the first inspection.
After any adjustment/assembly work, be sure to make a short functional
check as described in chapter and do a test ride in an
area away from traffic. This will allow you to safely check whether everything
is in good order.
All tasks described in the following require the know-how of a mechanic and
appropriate tools. Increase the tightening torque bit by bit, checking the fit
of the component in between. Use a torque wrench and never exceed the
maximum tightening torque! You will find the prescribed values in chapter
, directly on the components and/
or in the manuals of the component manufacturers.

The correct saddle height for almost all bicycle types is the height which gives
maximum pedalling comfort and efficiency. When pedalling, the ball of your
foot should be positioned above the centre of the pedal spindles . With your
feet in this position you should not be able to stretch your legs completely
straight at the lowest point, otherwise your pedalling will become awkward.
Check the height of your saddle with flat-soled shoes. This is best done with
suitable cycling shoes. Sit on the saddle and put your heel on the pedal at
its lowest point . Your leg should be fully stretched and your hips should
remain horizontal.
To adjust the saddle height loosen the quick-release lever (see chapter
) or the binder bolt of the
seat post clamp at the top of the seat tube. The latter requires appropriate
tools, e.g. an Allen key, with which you turn the bolt two to three turns anti-
clockwise. Now you can adjust the seat post.
a
b
c
d


Get into the habit of doing the checks as described in chapter 
 together with your child . In this way, the child will learn to
handle the bicycle properly and you will be able to detect any defects that
have developed during use. Encourage your child to tell you, if anything
should not be working properly on their bicycle. Rectify the fault immediately
or take the bicycle to your bicycle dealer for repair, if you are in any doubt.
Children can be vain. Make sure you buy a tested cycling helmet
that the child feels happy with. Take your child with you to
make sure you buy one which is comfortable and fits correctly.
This will increase the chances that the helmet is actually worn,
which might one day be a life-saver! Make sure the helmet is
always fastened!
Take care your child is wearing the helmet while cycling only.
For example, wearing the helmet at a park or playground can be
hazardous; the helmet may get caught on features or obstacles.
a
b
14 Adjusting the Bicycle to the Rider
Your body measurements are decisive for the frame size of your bicycle.
Make particularly sure there is enough space between your crotch and the
top tube so that you do not hurt yourself, if you have to get off your bicycle
quickly .
If you have a very small frame, there may be a danger of your
foot colliding with the front wheel. Therefore, make sure your
cleats are properly adjusted.
By choosing a specific type of bicycle you roughly determine the posture
you will be riding in . However, some components are designed in a way
that you can adjust them to your proportions to a certain degree, such as
seat post, stem and brake levers. Contact your bicycle dealer. He will see to
your wishes the next time you leave your bicycle at the workshop, e.g. for
the first inspection.
After any adjustment/assembly work, be sure to make a short functional
check as described in chapter and do a test ride in an
area away from traffic. This will allow you to safely check whether everything
is in good order.
All tasks described in the following require the know-how of a mechanic and
appropriate tools. Increase the tightening torque bit by bit, checking the fit
of the component in between. Use a torque wrench and never exceed the
maximum tightening torque! You will find the prescribed values in chapter
, directly on the components and/
or in the manuals of the component manufacturers.

The correct saddle height for almost all bicycle types is the height which gives
maximum pedalling comfort and efficiency. When pedalling, the ball of your
foot should be positioned above the centre of the pedal spindles . With your
feet in this position you should not be able to stretch your legs completely
straight at the lowest point, otherwise your pedalling will become awkward.
Check the height of your saddle with flat-soled shoes. This is best done with
suitable cycling shoes. Sit on the saddle and put your heel on the pedal at
its lowest point . Your leg should be fully stretched and your hips should
remain horizontal.
To adjust the saddle height loosen the quick-release lever (see chapter
) or the binder bolt of the
seat post clamp at the top of the seat tube. The latter requires appropriate
tools, e.g. an Allen key, with which you turn the bolt two to three turns anti-
clockwise. Now you can adjust the seat post.
a
b
c
d


Be sure not to pull out the seat post too far the mark on the seat post
(max., min., stop or the like) should always remain within the seat tube 
and to grease the surface of an aluminium or titanium seat post that is
inserted into a seat tube made of aluminium, titanium or steel. Do not grease
carbon seat posts and/or carbon seat tubes in the clamping area! Use spe-
cial XLC assembly paste instead .
Do not use brute force, if the seat post does not move easily
inside the seat tube or if it cannot be tightened sufficiently, ask
your bicycle dealer for advice!
The minimum insertion depths marked on seat post and frame
may differ. Be sure to insert the seat post to the deepest inser-
tion depth.
Align the saddle with the frame by using the saddle nose and the bottom
bracket or top tube as a reference point.
Clamp the seat post tight again by closing the quick-release , as de-
scribed in chapter  or by
turning the seat post binder bolts clockwise in half turns. You should not
need much strength in your hands to clamp the seat post sufficiently tight.
Otherwise the seat post does not match the frame.
Verify in between that the seat clamp is sufficiently tight by taking hold of the
saddle at both ends and then trying to rotate the seat post inside the seat
tube . If it does rotate, gently retighten the clamping bolt by half a turn
and do the check again.
Never apply grease or oil into a seat tube of a frame made of
carbon, unless an aluminium sleeve is inside the frame. If you
mount a carbon seat post, do not put any grease on it, even if
the frame is made of metal. Once greased, carbon parts may
never again ensure reliable clamping.
Tighten carefully by approaching the prescribed maximum
torque in small steps (0.5 Nm increments) whilst constantly
checking the proper fit of the component. Never exceed the
maximum tightening torque indicated by the manufacturer!
Do not overtighten the binder bolt of the seat post clamp. Oth-
erwise the seat post or the frame can be damaged. Risk of an
accident!
Does the leg stretch test now produce the right result? Check by moving
your foot and pedal to the lowest point. When the ball of your foot is exactly
above the pedal centre in the ideal pedalling position, your knee should be
slightly bent. If it is, you have adjusted the saddle height correctly. Check
whether you can touch the ground safely while sitting on the saddle by
stretching your feet to the floor. If you cannot, you should lower the saddle
a little, at least to begin with.
a
b
c
d
Never ride your bicycle with the seat post drawn out beyond
the limit, maximum, or stop mark! The seat post might break or
cause severe damage to the frame. If your bicycle has a long
seat tube continuing beyond the top tube, the seat post should
at least reach below the level of the top tube and the tip of the
rear stays!
If sitting on the saddle causes you trouble, e.g. because it
numbs your crotch, this may be due to the saddle. Your bicycle
dealer has a very wide range of saddles available and can offer
advice on position .
With full-suspension mountain bikes the seat post should not
project from the seat tube at lowest saddle height, as other-
wise the rear shock arm may collide with the seat post during
compression.

Integrated seat posts have to be shortened to adjust them to the individual
needs of the cyclist. The seat post clamping itself provides only limited verti-
cal adjustment.
Shortening the seat post is a very delicate job, best left to your
bicycle dealer! An improperly shortened seat post may result in
damage to the seat post! Risk of an accident!
In case you nevertheless want to shorten the integrated seat post by your-
self, you need special tools!
Determine the desired saddle height . Keep in mind that another saddle
or pedal model may have a significant influence on the length of the seat
tube!
Please note that shortening the seat post is an irreversible ad-
justment. Therefore, ask your bicycle dealer to do this job.
Use a marker pen to indicate the length you want to shorten. Slide an ap-
propriate saw capture on the seat tube until the line of the marker is visible
in the saw capture slot.
Use a saw with a metal cut saw blade. To avoid any damage to
the carbon tube, be sure to use a 24 teeth per inch saw blade.
Saw the tube, remove the saw capture and deburr the cutting edges with
sandpaper.
Mount the saddle clamp and slide it as deep as possible . Finish by fixing
the saddle with a torque wrench according to the indications on the compo-
nent and/or in the enclosed manual. The usage of XLC-mounting paste 
will help you to avoid overtightening.
a
b
c
d


Be sure not to pull out the seat post too far the mark on the seat post
(max., min., stop or the like) should always remain within the seat tube 
and to grease the surface of an aluminium or titanium seat post that is
inserted into a seat tube made of aluminium, titanium or steel. Do not grease
carbon seat posts and/or carbon seat tubes in the clamping area! Use spe-
cial XLC assembly paste instead .
Do not use brute force, if the seat post does not move easily
inside the seat tube or if it cannot be tightened sufficiently, ask
your bicycle dealer for advice!
The minimum insertion depths marked on seat post and frame
may differ. Be sure to insert the seat post to the deepest inser-
tion depth.
Align the saddle with the frame by using the saddle nose and the bottom
bracket or top tube as a reference point.
Clamp the seat post tight again by closing the quick-release , as de-
scribed in chapter  or by
turning the seat post binder bolts clockwise in half turns. You should not
need much strength in your hands to clamp the seat post sufficiently tight.
Otherwise the seat post does not match the frame.
Verify in between that the seat clamp is sufficiently tight by taking hold of the
saddle at both ends and then trying to rotate the seat post inside the seat
tube . If it does rotate, gently retighten the clamping bolt by half a turn
and do the check again.
Never apply grease or oil into a seat tube of a frame made of
carbon, unless an aluminium sleeve is inside the frame. If you
mount a carbon seat post, do not put any grease on it, even if
the frame is made of metal. Once greased, carbon parts may
never again ensure reliable clamping.
Tighten carefully by approaching the prescribed maximum
torque in small steps (0.5 Nm increments) whilst constantly
checking the proper fit of the component. Never exceed the
maximum tightening torque indicated by the manufacturer!
Do not overtighten the binder bolt of the seat post clamp. Oth-
erwise the seat post or the frame can be damaged. Risk of an
accident!
Does the leg stretch test now produce the right result? Check by moving
your foot and pedal to the lowest point. When the ball of your foot is exactly
above the pedal centre in the ideal pedalling position, your knee should be
slightly bent. If it is, you have adjusted the saddle height correctly. Check
whether you can touch the ground safely while sitting on the saddle by
stretching your feet to the floor. If you cannot, you should lower the saddle
a little, at least to begin with.
a
b
c
d
Never ride your bicycle with the seat post drawn out beyond
the limit, maximum, or stop mark! The seat post might break or
cause severe damage to the frame. If your bicycle has a long
seat tube continuing beyond the top tube, the seat post should
at least reach below the level of the top tube and the tip of the
rear stays!
If sitting on the saddle causes you trouble, e.g. because it
numbs your crotch, this may be due to the saddle. Your bicycle
dealer has a very wide range of saddles available and can offer
advice on position .
With full-suspension mountain bikes the seat post should not
project from the seat tube at lowest saddle height, as other-
wise the rear shock arm may collide with the seat post during
compression.

Integrated seat posts have to be shortened to adjust them to the individual
needs of the cyclist. The seat post clamping itself provides only limited verti-
cal adjustment.
Shortening the seat post is a very delicate job, best left to your
bicycle dealer! An improperly shortened seat post may result in
damage to the seat post! Risk of an accident!
In case you nevertheless want to shorten the integrated seat post by your-
self, you need special tools!
Determine the desired saddle height . Keep in mind that another saddle
or pedal model may have a significant influence on the length of the seat
tube!
Please note that shortening the seat post is an irreversible ad-
justment. Therefore, ask your bicycle dealer to do this job.
Use a marker pen to indicate the length you want to shorten. Slide an ap-
propriate saw capture on the seat tube until the line of the marker is visible
in the saw capture slot.
Use a saw with a metal cut saw blade. To avoid any damage to
the carbon tube, be sure to use a 24 teeth per inch saw blade.
Saw the tube, remove the saw capture and deburr the cutting edges with
sandpaper.
Mount the saddle clamp and slide it as deep as possible . Finish by fixing
the saddle with a torque wrench according to the indications on the compo-
nent and/or in the enclosed manual. The usage of XLC-mounting paste 
will help you to avoid overtightening.
a
b
c
d
96
97
14.2 Adjusting the Height of the Handlebars
The height of the handlebars determines how much your upper body will be
inclined forward. Lowering the handlebars gives you a streamlined position
and brings more weight to bear on the front wheel. However, it also entails
an extremely forward leaning posture which is tiring and less comfortable,
because it increases the strain on your wrists, arms, back, upper body and
neck.
There are three different systems that allow vertical adjustment of the han-
dlebars, i.e. conventional, adjustable and Aheadset
®
-stem. These systems
require special knowledge. In this regard, the descriptions hereafter may be
incomplete. If you have the slightest doubt, ask your bicycle dealer for help.
The stem is one of the load bearing parts of your bicycle.
Changes to it can impair your safety. If you are in doubt or if you
have any questions, please contact your bicycle dealer!
Stems come in varying lengths as well as shaft and binder tube
diameters (a). If you opt for a stem of inappropriate sizing, han-
dlebars and stem may break and result in an accident. When
replacing any parts be sure to only use parts that bear the ap-
propriate mark and, to be on the safe side, original spare parts.
Your bicycle dealer will be pleased to help you!
Make sure the handlebar-stem-combination is approved by the
handlebar and/or stem manufacturer.
Check whether the handlebar clamping surface of the stem is
free of sharp edges (b). Ask your bicycle dealer for professional
advice.
The bolted connections of stem and handlebars have to be
tightened to the prescribed tightening torques (c). If you disre-
gard the prescribed values, handlebars or stem may come loose
or break. Use a torque wrench and never exceed the maximum
tightening torque! You will find the prescribed values in chapter
“Recommended Tightening Torques”, directly on the compo-
nents and/or in the manuals of the component manufacturers.
14.2.1 Adjustable Stems
There are various solutions for adjusting the tilt of the front part of adjustable
stems (d):
Some designs use bolts on the sides of the joint, others have bolts coming
from above or below, and some versions are equipped with additional lock-
ing mechanisms or adjusting bolts.
Ask your bicycle dealer to explain you both function and adjust-
ment of your stem or let him do that work.
a
b
c
d
Release the side clamping bolt at the joint (a) by two to three turns at the
most, i.e. without unscrewing it all the way. If you still cannot move the stem,
it is being held in place by a ratchet or integrated locking mechanism. If the
stem is fitted with a locking mechanism, release the holding bolt located on
the top or bottom side (b) of the stem a little. In the case of a ratchet mecha-
nism you will find the bolt on the side.
Adjust the stem according to your needs.
Gently retighten the bolt of the locking mechanism, until it engages. Bolts lo-
cated on the side only have to be tightened gently. If there are no side bolts,
you have to tighten the bolt of the locking mechanism. If the stem of your
bike has a ratchet mechanism, make sure its surfaces engage snugly as you
tighten the side bolt. Retighten the bolt on the side of the joint, if necessary.
Any bolts located on the top or bottom side of the stem have to be released
as far as necessary to disengage the ratchet mechanism and to move
the front part. It is usually not necessary to remove the bolts completely.
Retighten the bolts after setting the stem to the desired height.
Changing the position of the stem alters the position of han-
dlebars, brake and shift levers. Readjust them as described in
chapter “Adjusting the Tilt of Handlebars, Bar Ends and Brake
Levers….“.
14.2.2 Conventional Stems
Handlebars with conventional stems allow limited vertical adjustment. This is
done by moving the stem up or down inside the fork steerer tube.
Release the expander bolt by two to three complete turns (c). The stem
should now turn freely inside the fork. If it does not, release the bolt by tap-
ping it gently with a rubber hammer.
With Allen bolts, you need to stick the Allen key into its head first, as it is
normally countersunk and therefore impossible to be hit directly. Then gently
tap the key with the rubber hammer (d).
Never try to unscrew the top race when you only want to adjust
the stem, as you will otherwise alter the bearing play.
a
b
c
d
96
97
14.2 Adjusting the Height of the Handlebars
The height of the handlebars determines how much your upper body will be
inclined forward. Lowering the handlebars gives you a streamlined position
and brings more weight to bear on the front wheel. However, it also entails
an extremely forward leaning posture which is tiring and less comfortable,
because it increases the strain on your wrists, arms, back, upper body and
neck.
There are three different systems that allow vertical adjustment of the han-
dlebars, i.e. conventional, adjustable and Aheadset
®
-stem. These systems
require special knowledge. In this regard, the descriptions hereafter may be
incomplete. If you have the slightest doubt, ask your bicycle dealer for help.
The stem is one of the load bearing parts of your bicycle.
Changes to it can impair your safety. If you are in doubt or if you
have any questions, please contact your bicycle dealer!
Stems come in varying lengths as well as shaft and binder tube
diameters (a). If you opt for a stem of inappropriate sizing, han-
dlebars and stem may break and result in an accident. When
replacing any parts be sure to only use parts that bear the ap-
propriate mark and, to be on the safe side, original spare parts.
Your bicycle dealer will be pleased to help you!
Make sure the handlebar-stem-combination is approved by the
handlebar and/or stem manufacturer.
Check whether the handlebar clamping surface of the stem is
free of sharp edges (b). Ask your bicycle dealer for professional
advice.
The bolted connections of stem and handlebars have to be
tightened to the prescribed tightening torques (c). If you disre-
gard the prescribed values, handlebars or stem may come loose
or break. Use a torque wrench and never exceed the maximum
tightening torque! You will find the prescribed values in chapter
“Recommended Tightening Torques”, directly on the compo-
nents and/or in the manuals of the component manufacturers.
14.2.1 Adjustable Stems
There are various solutions for adjusting the tilt of the front part of adjustable
stems (d):
Some designs use bolts on the sides of the joint, others have bolts coming
from above or below, and some versions are equipped with additional lock-
ing mechanisms or adjusting bolts.
Ask your bicycle dealer to explain you both function and adjust-
ment of your stem or let him do that work.
a
b
c
d
Release the side clamping bolt at the joint (a) by two to three turns at the
most, i.e. without unscrewing it all the way. If you still cannot move the stem,
it is being held in place by a ratchet or integrated locking mechanism. If the
stem is fitted with a locking mechanism, release the holding bolt located on
the top or bottom side (b) of the stem a little. In the case of a ratchet mecha-
nism you will find the bolt on the side.
Adjust the stem according to your needs.
Gently retighten the bolt of the locking mechanism, until it engages. Bolts lo-
cated on the side only have to be tightened gently. If there are no side bolts,
you have to tighten the bolt of the locking mechanism. If the stem of your
bike has a ratchet mechanism, make sure its surfaces engage snugly as you
tighten the side bolt. Retighten the bolt on the side of the joint, if necessary.
Any bolts located on the top or bottom side of the stem have to be released
as far as necessary to disengage the ratchet mechanism and to move
the front part. It is usually not necessary to remove the bolts completely.
Retighten the bolts after setting the stem to the desired height.
Changing the position of the stem alters the position of han-
dlebars, brake and shift levers. Readjust them as described in
chapter “Adjusting the Tilt of Handlebars, Bar Ends and Brake
Levers….“.
14.2.2 Conventional Stems
Handlebars with conventional stems allow limited vertical adjustment. This is
done by moving the stem up or down inside the fork steerer tube.
Release the expander bolt by two to three complete turns (c). The stem
should now turn freely inside the fork. If it does not, release the bolt by tap-
ping it gently with a rubber hammer.
With Allen bolts, you need to stick the Allen key into its head first, as it is
normally countersunk and therefore impossible to be hit directly. Then gently
tap the key with the rubber hammer (d).
Never try to unscrew the top race when you only want to adjust
the stem, as you will otherwise alter the bearing play.
a
b
c
d
98
99
Now you can move the handlebar/stem unit up and down as a whole. Be
sure not to pull out the stem too far. The mark on the stem (max., min.,
max., stop, limit or the like) should always remain within the tube (a). Setting
the stem to a lower position can only add to your safety!
Straighten the handlebars so that they are symmetrical with respect to the
front wheel (b).
Retighten the expander bolt with a torque wrench. Tighten carefully by ap-
proaching the prescribed maximum torque in small steps (0.5 Nm incre-
ments) whilst constantly checking the proper fit of the component. Never
exceed the maximum tightening torque indicated by the manufacturer!
Make sure the stem is firmly fixed by taking the front wheel between your
legs and trying to turn the handlebars and stem relative to the wheel (c). If
there is movement, please increase the tightening torque.
If the handlebars are still too high or too low, you can replace the stem. This
can be quite a big job, as it may mean taking off and remounting all the
fittings on the handlebars. Inform yourself at your bicycle dealer about the
various stem types available. Let the bicycle dealer advise you about the dif-
ferent types of stems and have the stem mounted in the shop.
Never ride a bicycle with a stem drawn out beyond the mark for
the maximum permissible height! Check all bolted connections
and do a brake test before you set off!
Stems come in most different lengths and shaft and binder tube
diameters. If you opt for a stem of inappropriate sizing, handle-
bars and stem may break and result in an accident.
14.2.3 Stems for Threadless Systems, the Aheadset
®
-System
(*Aheadset
®
is a registered trade mark of Dia-Compe)
On bicycles with Aheadset
®
the stem also serves to adjust the initial head-
set bearing pressure. If you change the position of the stem you have to
readjust the bearings (see chapter “Headset”). The vertical setting range is
determined by the intermediate rings, also referred to as spacers (d). In the
case of flip-flop stem models the stem can be mounted the other way round
to achieve a different handlebar height.
This adjustment is a job best left to your bicycle dealer!
a
b
c
d
14.2.4 Adjusting Adjustable Handlebar Systems (A.H.S.)
Check whether the clamping area (a) of the A.H.S. is accurately centred in
the handlebar clamp of the stem.
Adjust the A.H.S. tilt to your personal needs.
Tighten the handlebar clamping bolt(s) at the stem to the tightening torques
prescribed by the stem manufacturer (b).
Bring the A.H.S. grips into a position that matches your personal needs. To
do so release the clamping bolts at the joint.
After you have found the ideal position for you, retighten the clamping bolts
(c) to a tightening torque of 5.5 Nm.
Adjust the shift/brake levers and grips on the handlebars to your wishes.
Slide the expander cones of the bar ends onto the outer ends of the A.H.S.
Make sure the clamping surfaces are always clean and free of
grease!
Position the bar ends to your personal needs.
Tighten the clamping bolts of the bar ends to a tightening torque of 23 Nm.
Do not forget to insert the according plugs into the ends of the A.H.S. (d).
a
b
c
d
98
99
Now you can move the handlebar/stem unit up and down as a whole. Be
sure not to pull out the stem too far. The mark on the stem (max., min.,
max., stop, limit or the like) should always remain within the tube (a). Setting
the stem to a lower position can only add to your safety!
Straighten the handlebars so that they are symmetrical with respect to the
front wheel (b).
Retighten the expander bolt with a torque wrench. Tighten carefully by ap-
proaching the prescribed maximum torque in small steps (0.5 Nm incre-
ments) whilst constantly checking the proper fit of the component. Never
exceed the maximum tightening torque indicated by the manufacturer!
Make sure the stem is firmly fixed by taking the front wheel between your
legs and trying to turn the handlebars and stem relative to the wheel (c). If
there is movement, please increase the tightening torque.
If the handlebars are still too high or too low, you can replace the stem. This
can be quite a big job, as it may mean taking off and remounting all the
fittings on the handlebars. Inform yourself at your bicycle dealer about the
various stem types available. Let the bicycle dealer advise you about the dif-
ferent types of stems and have the stem mounted in the shop.
Never ride a bicycle with a stem drawn out beyond the mark for
the maximum permissible height! Check all bolted connections
and do a brake test before you set off!
Stems come in most different lengths and shaft and binder tube
diameters. If you opt for a stem of inappropriate sizing, handle-
bars and stem may break and result in an accident.
14.2.3 Stems for Threadless Systems, the Aheadset
®
-System
(*Aheadset
®
is a registered trade mark of Dia-Compe)
On bicycles with Aheadset
®
the stem also serves to adjust the initial head-
set bearing pressure. If you change the position of the stem you have to
readjust the bearings (see chapter “Headset”). The vertical setting range is
determined by the intermediate rings, also referred to as spacers (d). In the
case of flip-flop stem models the stem can be mounted the other way round
to achieve a different handlebar height.
This adjustment is a job best left to your bicycle dealer!
a
b
c
d
14.2.4 Adjusting Adjustable Handlebar Systems (A.H.S.)
Check whether the clamping area (a) of the A.H.S. is accurately centred in
the handlebar clamp of the stem.
Adjust the A.H.S. tilt to your personal needs.
Tighten the handlebar clamping bolt(s) at the stem to the tightening torques
prescribed by the stem manufacturer (b).
Bring the A.H.S. grips into a position that matches your personal needs. To
do so release the clamping bolts at the joint.
After you have found the ideal position for you, retighten the clamping bolts
(c) to a tightening torque of 5.5 Nm.
Adjust the shift/brake levers and grips on the handlebars to your wishes.
Slide the expander cones of the bar ends onto the outer ends of the A.H.S.
Make sure the clamping surfaces are always clean and free of
grease!
Position the bar ends to your personal needs.
Tighten the clamping bolts of the bar ends to a tightening torque of 23 Nm.
Do not forget to insert the according plugs into the ends of the A.H.S. (d).
a
b
c
d
100
101
14.3 Correcting the Fore-to-Aft position and
Tilt of the Saddle
The inclination of your upper body, and hence your riding comfort and
pedalling power, are also influenced by the distance between the grips of
the handlebars and the saddle (a). This distance can be altered slightly by
changing the position of the saddle rails in the seat post clamp. However,
this also influences your pedalling. Whether the saddle is positioned more to
the front or to the back of the bicycle will alter how rearward the pedalling
position of your legs is.
You need to have the saddle horizontal in order to pedal in a relaxed man-
ner. If it is tilted, you will constantly have to lean against the handlebars to
prevent yourself from slipping off the saddle.
The setting range of the saddle is very small. Replacing the
stem allows you to make far bigger adjustments to the rider’s
fore-to-aft position, as stems come in different lengths (b). In
doing so you may achieve differences of more than ten centi-
metres. In this case you usually would have to adjust the length
of the cables – a job best left to your bicycle dealer!
Note that the bolted connections of the seat post have to be
tightened to the prescribed tightening torques. Use a torque
wrench and never exceed the maximum tightening torque!
You will find the prescribed values in chapter “Recommended
Tightening Torques”, directly on the components and/or in the
manuals of the component manufacturers.
Make sure the saddle is not clamped in the curved sections of
the saddle rails (c).
14.3.1 Adjusting Saddle position and Tilt
With patent seat posts (d) a single bolt fixes the clamping mechanism, which
controls both the tilt and the horizontal position of the saddle. Some seat
posts have two bolts for a finer adjustment of the tilt.
Release one or both bolts at the top of the seat post. Turn the bolt(s) two
to three turns anticlockwise at the most, otherwise the whole assembly can
come apart.
Move the saddle forward or backward by sliding its rails in the loosened seat
post clamp. You may have to give the saddle a light tap to move it. Please
observe the markings on the saddle rail.
a
b
c
d
Make sure the seat of the saddle remains horizontal (a) as you retighten the
bolt(s). The bicycle should stand on level ground while you adjust the saddle.
Retighten the bolt(s) with a torque wrench according to the instructions of
the manufacturer. After fastening the saddle, check whether it resists tilting
by bringing your weight to bear on it once with your hands at either end of
the saddle (b).
Check the bolts by using a torque wrench once a month ac-
cording to the values indiated in the enclosed manuals or di-
rectly on the components.
14.4 Adjusting the Brake Levers and the
Handlebars
14.4.1 Adjusting the Brake Lever Reach of Road Racing
Bicycles
Riders with small hands should check the lever position at the point the
brake pads have first contact with the rim. This distance should be adjusted
by the bicycle dealer to the length of the rider’s fingers directly when buying
the bicycle. The models of some manufacturers allow an adjustment directly
at the brake lever. The adjustment of other models is performed by clamping
the cables at the brake itself. The knurled knob or nut (c) you will find there
is only to readjust the brake, if the brake pads wear out.
Be sure to check whether there is still enough slack for the brake levers to
move a little before the brake pads hit the rim (d). Check the point, front and
rear, at which the brake pads touch the rims. If this point is reached after the
lever has only travelled a short distance, you will have to readjust the brakes
(see chapter “The Brake System“). Otherwise the brakes could rub on the
rim, e.g. when you ride out of the saddle.
Make sure you cannot pull the brake levers all the way to the
handlebars. Your maximum brake force should be reached
short of this point!
a
b
c
d
100
101
14.3 Correcting the Fore-to-Aft position and
Tilt of the Saddle
The inclination of your upper body, and hence your riding comfort and
pedalling power, are also influenced by the distance between the grips of
the handlebars and the saddle (a). This distance can be altered slightly by
changing the position of the saddle rails in the seat post clamp. However,
this also influences your pedalling. Whether the saddle is positioned more to
the front or to the back of the bicycle will alter how rearward the pedalling
position of your legs is.
You need to have the saddle horizontal in order to pedal in a relaxed man-
ner. If it is tilted, you will constantly have to lean against the handlebars to
prevent yourself from slipping off the saddle.
The setting range of the saddle is very small. Replacing the
stem allows you to make far bigger adjustments to the rider’s
fore-to-aft position, as stems come in different lengths (b). In
doing so you may achieve differences of more than ten centi-
metres. In this case you usually would have to adjust the length
of the cables – a job best left to your bicycle dealer!
Note that the bolted connections of the seat post have to be
tightened to the prescribed tightening torques. Use a torque
wrench and never exceed the maximum tightening torque!
You will find the prescribed values in chapter “Recommended
Tightening Torques”, directly on the components and/or in the
manuals of the component manufacturers.
Make sure the saddle is not clamped in the curved sections of
the saddle rails (c).
14.3.1 Adjusting Saddle position and Tilt
With patent seat posts (d) a single bolt fixes the clamping mechanism, which
controls both the tilt and the horizontal position of the saddle. Some seat
posts have two bolts for a finer adjustment of the tilt.
Release one or both bolts at the top of the seat post. Turn the bolt(s) two
to three turns anticlockwise at the most, otherwise the whole assembly can
come apart.
Move the saddle forward or backward by sliding its rails in the loosened seat
post clamp. You may have to give the saddle a light tap to move it. Please
observe the markings on the saddle rail.
a
b
c
d
Make sure the seat of the saddle remains horizontal (a) as you retighten the
bolt(s). The bicycle should stand on level ground while you adjust the saddle.
Retighten the bolt(s) with a torque wrench according to the instructions of
the manufacturer. After fastening the saddle, check whether it resists tilting
by bringing your weight to bear on it once with your hands at either end of
the saddle (b).
Check the bolts by using a torque wrench once a month ac-
cording to the values indiated in the enclosed manuals or di-
rectly on the components.
14.4 Adjusting the Brake Levers and the
Handlebars
14.4.1 Adjusting the Brake Lever Reach of Road Racing
Bicycles
Riders with small hands should check the lever position at the point the
brake pads have first contact with the rim. This distance should be adjusted
by the bicycle dealer to the length of the rider’s fingers directly when buying
the bicycle. The models of some manufacturers allow an adjustment directly
at the brake lever. The adjustment of other models is performed by clamping
the cables at the brake itself. The knurled knob or nut (c) you will find there
is only to readjust the brake, if the brake pads wear out.
Be sure to check whether there is still enough slack for the brake levers to
move a little before the brake pads hit the rim (d). Check the point, front and
rear, at which the brake pads touch the rims. If this point is reached after the
lever has only travelled a short distance, you will have to readjust the brakes
(see chapter “The Brake System“). Otherwise the brakes could rub on the
rim, e.g. when you ride out of the saddle.
Make sure you cannot pull the brake levers all the way to the
handlebars. Your maximum brake force should be reached
short of this point!
a
b
c
d
102
103
Shimano offers Dual Control levers which match small hands.
If you have problems reaching the brake lever, ask your bicycle
dealer.
What to Bear in Mind with Time Trial Handlebars on Triathlon and Time
Trial Bicycles
In triathlons and time trials (training and competition), where a particularly
aerodynamic seating position is important, so called aero handlebars are
used. With these aero models the shift levers are often positioned at the
handlebar ends and the brake levers at the ends of the basic bullhorn han-
dlebars (a). When you ride with your back in a horizontal position and hands
on the aero bars, the brake levers are out of reach and the reaction time is
extended which makes your stopping distance longer. For this reason it is
very important for you to ride with caution and with this fact in mind.
Within certain limits, the position of the handlebars can be adjusted ac-
cording to your personal wishes. That is to say the straight part of the aero
handlebars should point slightly downward or upwards, and the basic han-
dlebars should be parallel to the lane or point slightly upwards.
Make sure your forearms are always comfortably rested, i.e. the elbows
should be off the armrests a little towards the rear (b).
Note that the distance you need to stop your bicycle increases,
while riding with the hands on the upper part of the handlebars
or with an aerodynamic seating position. The brake levers are
not always within easy reach.
14.4.2 Adjusting the Tilt of Handlebars and Brake Levers on
Road Racing Bicycles
In road racing bicycles, the straight extension below the drops should be
parallel to the ground or slant slightly downwards, towards the rear (c).
The tips of the brake levers should coincide with an imaginary straight line
extending forward from the bar ends. Shifting the brake levers is a job best
left to your bicycle dealer, as it involves retaping the handlebars afterwards.
To adjust the tilt of the handlebars, release the Allen bolt(s) on the underside
or front of the stem (d).
Turn the handlebars to the desired position.
Make sure the handlebars are accurately centred in the stem.
a
b
c
d
Now carefully retighten the bolt(s) with a torque wrench. Make sure the ad-
jacent clamping slots are parallel and the upper and lower slots are even.
Try rotating the handlebars once clamped in the stem (a) and tighten the
bolt a little more, if necessary.
Never exceed the recommended torque.
Note that the bolted connections of the stem, the handlebars
and add-on parts have to be tightened to the specified torques.
Use a torque wrench and never exceed the maximum tightening
torque! You will find the prescribed values in chapter “Recom-
mended Tightening Torques”, directly on the components and/
or in the manuals of the component manufacturers.
14.4.3 Adjusting the Brake Lever Reach of Trekking, City,
BMX, Kids’ and Mountain Bikes
With most brake systems the distance between the brake levers and the
handlebar grips is adjustable. This gives riders with small hands the conven-
ience of bringing the brake levers closer to the handlebars. The length of the
rider’s fingers also determines how the lever position for first brake contact
should be set.
Determine the point, front and rear, at which the brake pads touch the rims
or, with disc brakes, makes contact with the rotor. If this point is reached
after the lever has only travelled a short distance, you will have to readjust
the brakes when altering the reach distance (see chapter “Brake System“
and the operating instructions of the brake manufacturer). Otherwise the
brake pads might drag on the rims.
On most bicycles there is a small headless screw near the point where the
brake cable of a cable brake enters the brake lever mount or at the lever
itself. Turn the screw clockwise and watch how the lever adjusts as you do
so (b).
If you have disc brakes, follow the instructions of the brake
manufacturer.
Hydraulic brakes are also fitted with adjusting devices at the brake lever.
There are different types of systems, ask your bicycle dealer for help (c).
When you have set the levers to the desired reach distance be sure to check
whether there is still enough slack for the brake levers to move a little before
the brake pads hit the rims or make contact with the rotors (see chapter
“Brake System“) (d).
Make sure you cannot pull the brake levers all the way to the
handlebars. Your maximum brake force should be reached
short of this point!
Read the additional instructions of the brake manufacturer.
a
b
c
d
102
103
Shimano offers Dual Control levers which match small hands.
If you have problems reaching the brake lever, ask your bicycle
dealer.
What to Bear in Mind with Time Trial Handlebars on Triathlon and Time
Trial Bicycles
In triathlons and time trials (training and competition), where a particularly
aerodynamic seating position is important, so called aero handlebars are
used. With these aero models the shift levers are often positioned at the
handlebar ends and the brake levers at the ends of the basic bullhorn han-
dlebars (a). When you ride with your back in a horizontal position and hands
on the aero bars, the brake levers are out of reach and the reaction time is
extended which makes your stopping distance longer. For this reason it is
very important for you to ride with caution and with this fact in mind.
Within certain limits, the position of the handlebars can be adjusted ac-
cording to your personal wishes. That is to say the straight part of the aero
handlebars should point slightly downward or upwards, and the basic han-
dlebars should be parallel to the lane or point slightly upwards.
Make sure your forearms are always comfortably rested, i.e. the elbows
should be off the armrests a little towards the rear (b).
Note that the distance you need to stop your bicycle increases,
while riding with the hands on the upper part of the handlebars
or with an aerodynamic seating position. The brake levers are
not always within easy reach.
14.4.2 Adjusting the Tilt of Handlebars and Brake Levers on
Road Racing Bicycles
In road racing bicycles, the straight extension below the drops should be
parallel to the ground or slant slightly downwards, towards the rear (c).
The tips of the brake levers should coincide with an imaginary straight line
extending forward from the bar ends. Shifting the brake levers is a job best
left to your bicycle dealer, as it involves retaping the handlebars afterwards.
To adjust the tilt of the handlebars, release the Allen bolt(s) on the underside
or front of the stem (d).
Turn the handlebars to the desired position.
Make sure the handlebars are accurately centred in the stem.
a
b
c
d
Now carefully retighten the bolt(s) with a torque wrench. Make sure the ad-
jacent clamping slots are parallel and the upper and lower slots are even.
Try rotating the handlebars once clamped in the stem (a) and tighten the
bolt a little more, if necessary.
Never exceed the recommended torque.
Note that the bolted connections of the stem, the handlebars
and add-on parts have to be tightened to the specified torques.
Use a torque wrench and never exceed the maximum tightening
torque! You will find the prescribed values in chapter “Recom-
mended Tightening Torques”, directly on the components and/
or in the manuals of the component manufacturers.
14.4.3 Adjusting the Brake Lever Reach of Trekking, City,
BMX, Kids’ and Mountain Bikes
With most brake systems the distance between the brake levers and the
handlebar grips is adjustable. This gives riders with small hands the conven-
ience of bringing the brake levers closer to the handlebars. The length of the
rider’s fingers also determines how the lever position for first brake contact
should be set.
Determine the point, front and rear, at which the brake pads touch the rims
or, with disc brakes, makes contact with the rotor. If this point is reached
after the lever has only travelled a short distance, you will have to readjust
the brakes when altering the reach distance (see chapter “Brake System“
and the operating instructions of the brake manufacturer). Otherwise the
brake pads might drag on the rims.
On most bicycles there is a small headless screw near the point where the
brake cable of a cable brake enters the brake lever mount or at the lever
itself. Turn the screw clockwise and watch how the lever adjusts as you do
so (b).
If you have disc brakes, follow the instructions of the brake
manufacturer.
Hydraulic brakes are also fitted with adjusting devices at the brake lever.
There are different types of systems, ask your bicycle dealer for help (c).
When you have set the levers to the desired reach distance be sure to check
whether there is still enough slack for the brake levers to move a little before
the brake pads hit the rims or make contact with the rotors (see chapter
“Brake System“) (d).
Make sure you cannot pull the brake levers all the way to the
handlebars. Your maximum brake force should be reached
short of this point!
Read the additional instructions of the brake manufacturer.
a
b
c
d
104
105
14.4.4 Adjusting the Tilt of Handlebars, Bar Ends and
Brake Levers of Trekking, City, BMX, Kids’ and
Mountain Bikes
Handlebar ends are usually slightly bent. Set the handlebars to a position in
which your wrists are relaxed and not turned too much outwards (a).
To adjust the angle of the handlebars, release the Allen bolt(s) on the un-
derside or front side of the stem. Turn the handlebars to the desired posi-
tion. Make sure the handlebars are accurately centred in the stem. Carefully
retighten the bolt(s) with a torque wrench (b). Try rotating the handlebars
once clamped in the stem and tighten the bolt a little more, if necessary.
Use a torque wrench and never exceed the maximum tightening torque!
You will find the prescribed values in chapter “Recommended Tightening
Torques”, directly on the components and/or in the manuals of the com-
ponent manufacturers.
After adjusting the handlebar you need to adjust the brake and shift levers.
Release the Allen bolt at either grip binder. Turn the levers relative to the
handlebars. Sit in the saddle and place your fingers on the brake levers.
Check whether the back of your hand forms a straight line with the line of
your forearm. Retighten the grips with a torque wrench (c) and do a twist
test!
Note that the bolted connections of the stem, handlebars, bar
ends, and brakes have to be tightened to their specified tor-
ques. Use a torque wrench and never exceed the maximum
tightening torque! You will find the prescribed values in chapter
“Recommended Tightening Torques”, directly on the compo-
nents and/or in the manuals of the component manufacturers.
Bar ends and multi position handlebars give you additional ways of grip-
ping.
They are usually fixed in a position that gives the rider a comfortable grip
when pedalling out of the saddle, i.e. almost parallel to the ground or tilted
slightly upwards (by about 25°) (d).
Release the bolts, which are usually located on the bottomside of the bar
ends, by one to two complete turns.
a
b
c
d
Turn the bar ends to the desired position making sure the angle is the same
on both sides.
Retighten the bolts to the required torque.
Check whether the bar ends are firmly fixed by trying to twist them out of
position.
Note that the distance you need to stop your bicycle increases,
while riding with your hands on bar ends (a) or on a multi posi-
tion handlebar (b). The brake levers are not always within easy
reach.
Never fix bar ends in a vertical position or with their ends point-
ing towards the rear as this would increase the risk of injury in
the event of an accident.
a
b
104
105
14.4.4 Adjusting the Tilt of Handlebars, Bar Ends and
Brake Levers of Trekking, City, BMX, Kids’ and
Mountain Bikes
Handlebar ends are usually slightly bent. Set the handlebars to a position in
which your wrists are relaxed and not turned too much outwards (a).
To adjust the angle of the handlebars, release the Allen bolt(s) on the un-
derside or front side of the stem. Turn the handlebars to the desired posi-
tion. Make sure the handlebars are accurately centred in the stem. Carefully
retighten the bolt(s) with a torque wrench (b). Try rotating the handlebars
once clamped in the stem and tighten the bolt a little more, if necessary.
Use a torque wrench and never exceed the maximum tightening torque!
You will find the prescribed values in chapter “Recommended Tightening
Torques”, directly on the components and/or in the manuals of the com-
ponent manufacturers.
After adjusting the handlebar you need to adjust the brake and shift levers.
Release the Allen bolt at either grip binder. Turn the levers relative to the
handlebars. Sit in the saddle and place your fingers on the brake levers.
Check whether the back of your hand forms a straight line with the line of
your forearm. Retighten the grips with a torque wrench (c) and do a twist
test!
Note that the bolted connections of the stem, handlebars, bar
ends, and brakes have to be tightened to their specified tor-
ques. Use a torque wrench and never exceed the maximum
tightening torque! You will find the prescribed values in chapter
“Recommended Tightening Torques”, directly on the compo-
nents and/or in the manuals of the component manufacturers.
Bar ends and multi position handlebars give you additional ways of grip-
ping.
They are usually fixed in a position that gives the rider a comfortable grip
when pedalling out of the saddle, i.e. almost parallel to the ground or tilted
slightly upwards (by about 25°) (d).
Release the bolts, which are usually located on the bottomside of the bar
ends, by one to two complete turns.
a
b
c
d
Turn the bar ends to the desired position making sure the angle is the same
on both sides.
Retighten the bolts to the required torque.
Check whether the bar ends are firmly fixed by trying to twist them out of
position.
Note that the distance you need to stop your bicycle increases,
while riding with your hands on bar ends (a) or on a multi posi-
tion handlebar (b). The brake levers are not always within easy
reach.
Never fix bar ends in a vertical position or with their ends point-
ing towards the rear as this would increase the risk of injury in
the event of an accident.
a
b


15 All About Bicycles
 
There are various ways of carrying baggage on a bicycle. Your choice will
primarily depend on the weight and volume of the baggage and on the
bicycle you want to use. Using a bicycle rucksack  is a convenient way
of transporting baggage on a bicycle. You can also use pannier racks or
handlebar bags, but some bicycle models do not allow the mounting of
these accessories. If you are in doubt or if you have any questions, please
contact your bicycle dealer!


The load capacity of pannier racks is classified according to DIN in three
weight levels: 10, 18 and 25 kg. The load capacity is marked on the pannier
rack. Please mind the bicycle’s overall maximum load when transporting
baggage. If you fit your bicycle with a pannier rack, make sure it complies
with the DIN EN 14872 standard.
It is advisable to carry baggage in stable pannier bags with a very low
centre of gravity .
When buying pannier bags, make sure they are watertight so that your be-
longings are protected.
Some cross and mountain bikes without a rear shock can be fitted with a
pannier rack . Ask your bicycle dealer for the fixing points and suitable
pannier racks.
Another possibility of transporting baggage are handlebar bags. They often
have quick release fasteners for quick mounting and removal. Handlebar
bags are particularly suitable for valuables and photo equipment.
Lowrider bags fitted at the front of the bicycle are mounted to the fork by
means of special holders. They are a useful add-on for long tours. They are
well suited for heavy items, as they hardly affect the rider’s control of the
bicycle. Today, there are lowrider bags on the market that are even suitable
for being mounted to suspension forks. If you are in doubt or if you have any
questions, please contact your bicycle dealer!
We do, however, advise against fastening any baggage to suspension forks.
Make sure the weight of your baggage is favourably distribut-
ed when loading your bicycle. Heavy items should be carried
as close to the ground as possible. Handlebar bags and bags
mounted to the top of the pannier rack are only suited for light
objects.
a
b
c
d
Do not overload your bicycle (see chapter “Intended Use”) and
observe the maximum load capacity marked on or impressed in
your pannier rack.
Adjust the suspension fork and the tyre pressure to the addi-
tional load.
Baggage generally changes the riding characteristics of your bi-
cycle and increases your stopping distance! Therefore, practise
riding a loaded bicycle in a place clear of traffic .

Seat post supported pannier racks must not be loaded with heavy loads.
Keep in mind that when riding over a bumpy, uneven road the weight sub-
stantially increases (sprung mass). This has a significant influence on the
suspension performance. Furthermore, overloading bears the risk of frame
breakage! Therefore, do not load your bicycle with more than 8 kg!
With rear frame supported pannier racks the unsprung mass load increases
and the response of the suspension system becomes more sluggish.
For this reason we strongly advise against mounting pannier racks to full-
suspension frames.
 
The only possible and legal way of transporting children by bicycle is in spe-
cial child carriers or trailers . For more information in this regard, see
chapter .

The child carrier   is fastened to the frame of the bicycle. The
fastenings are usually designed for intermittent use. The child carrier can
thus be fastened to any bicycle that is equipped with the necessary fittings.
Only use pannier racks for mounting child carriers that have suitable fix-
ing points. Do not overload your pannier rack and be sure to observe the
permissible maximum load capacity marked on the rack. Never exceed the
indicated permissible overall load of the bicycle.
Do not mount a child carrier directly to the handlebars! Seat
post supported pannier racks are not approved for child carrier
mounting. Risk of breakage! Full-suspension bicycles do not al-
low child carrier mounting.
a
b
c
d


15 All About Bicycles
 
There are various ways of carrying baggage on a bicycle. Your choice will
primarily depend on the weight and volume of the baggage and on the
bicycle you want to use. Using a bicycle rucksack  is a convenient way
of transporting baggage on a bicycle. You can also use pannier racks or
handlebar bags, but some bicycle models do not allow the mounting of
these accessories. If you are in doubt or if you have any questions, please
contact your bicycle dealer!


The load capacity of pannier racks is classified according to DIN in three
weight levels: 10, 18 and 25 kg. The load capacity is marked on the pannier
rack. Please mind the bicycle’s overall maximum load when transporting
baggage. If you fit your bicycle with a pannier rack, make sure it complies
with the DIN EN 14872 standard.
It is advisable to carry baggage in stable pannier bags with a very low
centre of gravity .
When buying pannier bags, make sure they are watertight so that your be-
longings are protected.
Some cross and mountain bikes without a rear shock can be fitted with a
pannier rack . Ask your bicycle dealer for the fixing points and suitable
pannier racks.
Another possibility of transporting baggage are handlebar bags. They often
have quick release fasteners for quick mounting and removal. Handlebar
bags are particularly suitable for valuables and photo equipment.
Lowrider bags fitted at the front of the bicycle are mounted to the fork by
means of special holders. They are a useful add-on for long tours. They are
well suited for heavy items, as they hardly affect the rider’s control of the
bicycle. Today, there are lowrider bags on the market that are even suitable
for being mounted to suspension forks. If you are in doubt or if you have any
questions, please contact your bicycle dealer!
We do, however, advise against fastening any baggage to suspension forks.
Make sure the weight of your baggage is favourably distribut-
ed when loading your bicycle. Heavy items should be carried
as close to the ground as possible. Handlebar bags and bags
mounted to the top of the pannier rack are only suited for light
objects.
a
b
c
d
Do not overload your bicycle (see chapter “Intended Use”) and
observe the maximum load capacity marked on or impressed in
your pannier rack.
Adjust the suspension fork and the tyre pressure to the addi-
tional load.
Baggage generally changes the riding characteristics of your bi-
cycle and increases your stopping distance! Therefore, practise
riding a loaded bicycle in a place clear of traffic .

Seat post supported pannier racks must not be loaded with heavy loads.
Keep in mind that when riding over a bumpy, uneven road the weight sub-
stantially increases (sprung mass). This has a significant influence on the
suspension performance. Furthermore, overloading bears the risk of frame
breakage! Therefore, do not load your bicycle with more than 8 kg!
With rear frame supported pannier racks the unsprung mass load increases
and the response of the suspension system becomes more sluggish.
For this reason we strongly advise against mounting pannier racks to full-
suspension frames.
 
The only possible and legal way of transporting children by bicycle is in spe-
cial child carriers or trailers . For more information in this regard, see
chapter .

The child carrier   is fastened to the frame of the bicycle. The
fastenings are usually designed for intermittent use. The child carrier can
thus be fastened to any bicycle that is equipped with the necessary fittings.
Only use pannier racks for mounting child carriers that have suitable fix-
ing points. Do not overload your pannier rack and be sure to observe the
permissible maximum load capacity marked on the rack. Never exceed the
indicated permissible overall load of the bicycle.
Do not mount a child carrier directly to the handlebars! Seat
post supported pannier racks are not approved for child carrier
mounting. Risk of breakage! Full-suspension bicycles do not al-
low child carrier mounting.
a
b
c
d
108
109
Road racing bicycles, fitness and mountain bikes are not suit-
able for mounting a child carrier with special fittings. For more
information on other bicycle types, see chapter “Intended Use”.
Make it a rule to take your child out of the carrier when parking
the bicycle. Risk of toppling over!
Cover the springs of your saddle so that the child cannot get his
or her fingers pinched between them.
Make sure the child you are taking with you wears a helmet!
It is recommendable to only buy a DIN or GS tested child carrier. Be sure
to fasten the child’s seat belt before you set off and make sure the feet are
properly seated in the shields (b).
Child carriers have a strong influence on the bicycle’s riding characteristics.
The weight of both carrier and child will make the bicycle somewhat top-
heavy and tend to give you a wobbly ride. Practise getting on and riding your
bicycle with a child on it!
A critical moment is when you have just placed the child in the carrier be-
cause this is when the danger of the bicycle toppling over is greatest. A
good way to obviate this danger is to use a twin leg kickstand to keep the
bicycle stable in standing.
Children must be transported in special child carriers only that
provide sufficient protection for their feet. In Germany e.g. chil-
dren are allowed to be taken by child carrier until the age of 7,
the rider taking the child must be no younger than 16 years.
Please read up on the applicable regulations in your country!
There are some cross and mountain bikes that are not suitable
for mounting a child carrier with special fittings. For more infor-
mation, see chapter “Intended Use” or ask your bicycle dealer.
15.2.2 Child Trailers
With special child trailers (c+d) that are towed behind a bicycle you can
transport one or two children. Children can play in the trailer without the
danger of toys falling out. Some models provide the option of mounting a
sunshade or rain shield.
a
b
c
d
Before hitching a trailer to your bicycle have a look at chapter
“Intended Use” or contact your bicycle dealer. Note down the
trailer type you opt for so that they can provide you with the
information you need.
Trailers affect the braking behaviour of your bicycle and occupy far more
width than the bicycle would alone. First, practise drawing the trailer without
passengers (a). Mount a long pole with coloured pennant to your bicycle to
increase visibility. It should be fitted with all the reflectors that are prescribed
for riding on public roads, just like your bicycle. If you use it in the dark, illumi-
nate the rear end of the trailer with a battery/accumulator-operated lamp (b).
Please inform yourself about the regulations concering lighting in the country
where you are using the trailer.
Always secure the little passenger(s) (c) with the seat belt, as
erratic movements inside the trailer can make it topple over.
Make sure the child you are taking with you wears a helmet (d).
A trailer is an insufficient protection in the event of an accident!
Please note that your stopping distance increases due to the
additional load of the child.
Make sure your bicycle is approved for trailer towing before
mounting one. Trailer towing requires hydraulic brakes! (See
chapter “Intended Use“).
15.2.3 Kids’ Tandem Bicycles / Trailer Systems
There are different systems on the market that allow a kid’s bicycle to be at-
tached to an adult bicycle to cycle together with your child on public roads.
Inform yourself at your bicycle dealer about the different types of kids‘ tan-
dem bicycles.
Some of them are attached to the seat tube of the towing bicycle. This single
point attachment may be a little unstable.
Systems attaching the complete kid’s bicycle to the adult bicycle provide
more stability.
Trailer systems have a strong influence on the bicycle’s riding
characteristics. The weight of both the attached bicycle and the
child will make the bicycle somewhat top-heavy. It may tend to
wobble. Practise getting on and off your bicycle as well as cy-
cling. Keep in mind, in particular when turning, that your bicycle
including trailer system is much longer.
a
b
c
d
108
109
Road racing bicycles, fitness and mountain bikes are not suit-
able for mounting a child carrier with special fittings. For more
information on other bicycle types, see chapter “Intended Use”.
Make it a rule to take your child out of the carrier when parking
the bicycle. Risk of toppling over!
Cover the springs of your saddle so that the child cannot get his
or her fingers pinched between them.
Make sure the child you are taking with you wears a helmet!
It is recommendable to only buy a DIN or GS tested child carrier. Be sure
to fasten the child’s seat belt before you set off and make sure the feet are
properly seated in the shields (b).
Child carriers have a strong influence on the bicycle’s riding characteristics.
The weight of both carrier and child will make the bicycle somewhat top-
heavy and tend to give you a wobbly ride. Practise getting on and riding your
bicycle with a child on it!
A critical moment is when you have just placed the child in the carrier be-
cause this is when the danger of the bicycle toppling over is greatest. A
good way to obviate this danger is to use a twin leg kickstand to keep the
bicycle stable in standing.
Children must be transported in special child carriers only that
provide sufficient protection for their feet. In Germany e.g. chil-
dren are allowed to be taken by child carrier until the age of 7,
the rider taking the child must be no younger than 16 years.
Please read up on the applicable regulations in your country!
There are some cross and mountain bikes that are not suitable
for mounting a child carrier with special fittings. For more infor-
mation, see chapter “Intended Use” or ask your bicycle dealer.
15.2.2 Child Trailers
With special child trailers (c+d) that are towed behind a bicycle you can
transport one or two children. Children can play in the trailer without the
danger of toys falling out. Some models provide the option of mounting a
sunshade or rain shield.
a
b
c
d
Before hitching a trailer to your bicycle have a look at chapter
“Intended Use” or contact your bicycle dealer. Note down the
trailer type you opt for so that they can provide you with the
information you need.
Trailers affect the braking behaviour of your bicycle and occupy far more
width than the bicycle would alone. First, practise drawing the trailer without
passengers (a). Mount a long pole with coloured pennant to your bicycle to
increase visibility. It should be fitted with all the reflectors that are prescribed
for riding on public roads, just like your bicycle. If you use it in the dark, illumi-
nate the rear end of the trailer with a battery/accumulator-operated lamp (b).
Please inform yourself about the regulations concering lighting in the country
where you are using the trailer.
Always secure the little passenger(s) (c) with the seat belt, as
erratic movements inside the trailer can make it topple over.
Make sure the child you are taking with you wears a helmet (d).
A trailer is an insufficient protection in the event of an accident!
Please note that your stopping distance increases due to the
additional load of the child.
Make sure your bicycle is approved for trailer towing before
mounting one. Trailer towing requires hydraulic brakes! (See
chapter “Intended Use“).
15.2.3 Kids’ Tandem Bicycles / Trailer Systems
There are different systems on the market that allow a kid’s bicycle to be at-
tached to an adult bicycle to cycle together with your child on public roads.
Inform yourself at your bicycle dealer about the different types of kids‘ tan-
dem bicycles.
Some of them are attached to the seat tube of the towing bicycle. This single
point attachment may be a little unstable.
Systems attaching the complete kid’s bicycle to the adult bicycle provide
more stability.
Trailer systems have a strong influence on the bicycle’s riding
characteristics. The weight of both the attached bicycle and the
child will make the bicycle somewhat top-heavy. It may tend to
wobble. Practise getting on and off your bicycle as well as cy-
cling. Keep in mind, in particular when turning, that your bicycle
including trailer system is much longer.
a
b
c
d
110
111
These trailer systems also affect the braking behaviour of your bicycle.
Therefore, before riding with a kids‘ bicycle tandem on public roads, prac-
tise riding and brake behaviour without passengers in an area free of traffic.
It is also important for you to practise with your child how to
behave on an attached bicycle during the cycle. Make sure your
child wears a helmet (a) even when riding on a tandem bicycle!
Set a good example by wearing a helmet, as well.
Only buy tested trailer systems (e.g. DIN/GS tested systems)
and have them properly mounted. The manuals of the manu-
facturers that you have obtained together with the trailer system
provide detailed information in this regard.
When riding in the dark the kid’s bicycle attached should be fit-
ted with the prescribed lighting, i.e. the latter should be marked
with a wavy line and the letter “K” (b). For more information see
chapter “Legal Requirements for Riding on Public Roads“.
15.3 Taking the Bicycle by Car
The most convenient way to safely transport your bicycle is to put it into the
boot of your car (c). There the bike is protected from dirt and any dynamic
influences during the transport. Take care to protect the boot of the car.
If necessary, line the boot before stowing the bike. Interior fixing systems
intended to secure the bicycle in the boot can be particularly helpful.
Always secure the bicycle or bicycle components when putting
it/them into the interior of your car. Parts shifting around can
impair your safety.
If transporting the bicycle inside the boot is impossible, nearly every car
accessory dealer and car company offers carrier systems (d) which allow
bicycle transport without disassembly. The usual design involves rails fixed
to the roof of the car onto which the bicycles are fixed with clamps gripping
the down tubes.
Make sure to remove all parts of your bicycle (tools, pannier
bags, child carriers etc.) which might come loose during trans-
port and cause an accident!
a
b
c
d
Most clamps are potential sources of damage to large-diameter
frame tubes (a) that are not designed to be fixed in such clamps!
This can result in irreparable damage to the frame. High-end, very thin-
walled aluminium or carbon frames are particularly susceptible to such kind
of damage. Due to the material properties of carbon, you may not see a
severe damage at first sight. This can result in an unforeseeable severe ac-
cident at a later date.
Suitable, special-purpose models are, however, available in the car acces-
sory trade.
Rear carriers (b) are becoming more and more popular. Their big advantage
over roof carriers is that you do not have to lift up the bicycles so high to at-
tach them. Make sure the fastenings do not create any damage to the fork
or frame. Risk of breakage!
Do not buy a carrier on which the bicycle has to be mounted
upside down, i.e. with the handlebars and saddle fixed face
down to the carrier. This way of fastening the bicycle exposes
handlebars, stem, saddle and seat post to extreme stress dur-
ing transport. Do not opt for a carrier system with crank arm fit.
Risk of breakage!
Please make sure the lights and the number plate of your car are
not hidden from view. For some carriers, a second exterior rear
view mirror is required by the road traffic regulations.
Whatever system you opt for, make sure it complies with the relevant safety
standards of your country!
Read the instructions of your bicycle carrier and observe the maximum load
capacity and recommended or prescribed driving speed.
Check whether your bicycle is properly fastened before and at
regular intervals during the ride. A bicycle that detaches from
the roof carrier may endanger other road users.
Bear in mind that your car has a greater overall height with the
bicycle on it. Measure the overall height and place a sign stating
the height somewhere in the cockpit or on the steering wheel so
that it can be easily seen.
Never transport bicycles with hydraulic brakes upside down.
This could let air enter the brake system and result in brake
failure.
If your bicycle has disc brakes, be sure to mount the safety locks
before transporting the bicycle with the wheels dismounted.
a
b
110
111
These trailer systems also affect the braking behaviour of your bicycle.
Therefore, before riding with a kids‘ bicycle tandem on public roads, prac-
tise riding and brake behaviour without passengers in an area free of traffic.
It is also important for you to practise with your child how to
behave on an attached bicycle during the cycle. Make sure your
child wears a helmet (a) even when riding on a tandem bicycle!
Set a good example by wearing a helmet, as well.
Only buy tested trailer systems (e.g. DIN/GS tested systems)
and have them properly mounted. The manuals of the manu-
facturers that you have obtained together with the trailer system
provide detailed information in this regard.
When riding in the dark the kid’s bicycle attached should be fit-
ted with the prescribed lighting, i.e. the latter should be marked
with a wavy line and the letter “K” (b). For more information see
chapter “Legal Requirements for Riding on Public Roads“.
15.3 Taking the Bicycle by Car
The most convenient way to safely transport your bicycle is to put it into the
boot of your car (c). There the bike is protected from dirt and any dynamic
influences during the transport. Take care to protect the boot of the car.
If necessary, line the boot before stowing the bike. Interior fixing systems
intended to secure the bicycle in the boot can be particularly helpful.
Always secure the bicycle or bicycle components when putting
it/them into the interior of your car. Parts shifting around can
impair your safety.
If transporting the bicycle inside the boot is impossible, nearly every car
accessory dealer and car company offers carrier systems (d) which allow
bicycle transport without disassembly. The usual design involves rails fixed
to the roof of the car onto which the bicycles are fixed with clamps gripping
the down tubes.
Make sure to remove all parts of your bicycle (tools, pannier
bags, child carriers etc.) which might come loose during trans-
port and cause an accident!
a
b
c
d
Most clamps are potential sources of damage to large-diameter
frame tubes (a) that are not designed to be fixed in such clamps!
This can result in irreparable damage to the frame. High-end, very thin-
walled aluminium or carbon frames are particularly susceptible to such kind
of damage. Due to the material properties of carbon, you may not see a
severe damage at first sight. This can result in an unforeseeable severe ac-
cident at a later date.
Suitable, special-purpose models are, however, available in the car acces-
sory trade.
Rear carriers (b) are becoming more and more popular. Their big advantage
over roof carriers is that you do not have to lift up the bicycles so high to at-
tach them. Make sure the fastenings do not create any damage to the fork
or frame. Risk of breakage!
Do not buy a carrier on which the bicycle has to be mounted
upside down, i.e. with the handlebars and saddle fixed face
down to the carrier. This way of fastening the bicycle exposes
handlebars, stem, saddle and seat post to extreme stress dur-
ing transport. Do not opt for a carrier system with crank arm fit.
Risk of breakage!
Please make sure the lights and the number plate of your car are
not hidden from view. For some carriers, a second exterior rear
view mirror is required by the road traffic regulations.
Whatever system you opt for, make sure it complies with the relevant safety
standards of your country!
Read the instructions of your bicycle carrier and observe the maximum load
capacity and recommended or prescribed driving speed.
Check whether your bicycle is properly fastened before and at
regular intervals during the ride. A bicycle that detaches from
the roof carrier may endanger other road users.
Bear in mind that your car has a greater overall height with the
bicycle on it. Measure the overall height and place a sign stating
the height somewhere in the cockpit or on the steering wheel so
that it can be easily seen.
Never transport bicycles with hydraulic brakes upside down.
This could let air enter the brake system and result in brake
failure.
If your bicycle has disc brakes, be sure to mount the safety locks
before transporting the bicycle with the wheels dismounted.
a
b


 
If you want to take your bicycle with you when you go on a trip by plane,
pack it in an appropriate bicycle suitcase  or in a bicycle cardboard box
that you can obtain from your bicycle dealer. Special bicycle bags often
do not provide sufficient protection.
Pack the wheels in special wheel bags to protect them inside the suitcase or
cardboard box. Do not forget to take the necessary tools, a torque wrench,
bits and this manual with you to be able to assemble the bicycle and to get
it ready for use at your destination.
When you remove the wheels from a bicycle with disc brakes, be sure to
place pad spacers between the brake shoes. Otherwise they can come out
unintentionally and you will have difficulties in bringing them back into posi-
tion. Your bicycle dealer has a variety of brake pad spacers. Pull the brake
levers and fix them with a tape to the handlebars. This will keep the system
free of air.
a
b
 
In purchasing this high quality bicycle you laid the foundation for many years
and miles of enjoyable cycling. Whatever you are planning to do with your
bicycle, be sure to have proper equipment and to keep a few tips in mind.
Your bicycle dealer has a variety of useful accessories on offer enhancing
both your safety and convenience.
Improper accessories may change the qualities of your bicycle
and even cause an accident. Therefore, before fitting any ac-
cessories do contact your bicycle dealer and observe the in-
structions regarding the intended use of your bicycle.

Your bicycle can be fitted with various kinds of accessories . Make
sure to observe the requirements according to the DIN EN standards and
the traffic regulations in your country. Any retrofitted part must be compat-
ible with your bicycle. If you are in doubt or if you have any questions, please
contact your bicycle dealer!
Mounting incompatible parts can result in an accident!
c
d
Before buying any additional bells, horns or lighting acces-
sories, inform yourself thoroughly whether they are permitted
and tested and accordingly approved for use on public roads.
Make sure additional battery/accumulator-operated lamps are
marked with the wavy line and the letter “K”.
Retrofitted accessories, such as mudguards , disc or drum
brakes, pannier racks etc. can impair the functioning of your
bicycle. Ask your bicycle dealer for advice before mounting any
kind of accessories to your bicycle.

The overall load bearing capacity of bicycle trailers for freight transport must
not exceed 40 kg including freight. There are two types of trailer coupling:
There are trailers that are mounted close to the rear axle, whereas others are
attached between saddle and pannier rack. The decision as to the type of
coupling mainly depends on the design of your bicycle. Suspension bicycle
are not designed for trailer towing!
Be sure to observe the operating instructions of the trailer manufacturer.
Bicycle trailers must comply with the requirements of the road traffic regula-
tions.
Practise moving off, braking, turning and cycling down slopes, as a trailer
affects the performance of a bicycle.

Straight handlebars can be fitted with bar ends . Some thin-walled han-
dlebars or carbon handlebars need additional plug ends or other specific
parts to prevent a crushing or bursting of the handlebars. Have these parts
fitted by your bicycle dealer!

There are cycle computers that show your current and average speed, your
daily and annual mileage as well as the duration of the present ride. Real de
luxe models also give the highest speed achieved, differences in elevation,
your cadence or (with a special breast belt) your heart rate .

Baskets for handlebar or stem mounting are suited for the transport of
low-weight items only. Never load the basket with more than 5 kg.
In case you mount a basket to the handlebars, make sure front lamp and re-
flector remain free and steering is not affected. In general, we advise against
mounting a basket to the handlebars, as a negative impact on the perform-
ance of the bicycle cannot be excluded.
Make sure the mounting devices do not damage the handlebars
or the stem. Risk of breakage! Do not bend brake and Bowden
cables.
a
b
c
d


 
If you want to take your bicycle with you when you go on a trip by plane,
pack it in an appropriate bicycle suitcase  or in a bicycle cardboard box
that you can obtain from your bicycle dealer. Special bicycle bags often
do not provide sufficient protection.
Pack the wheels in special wheel bags to protect them inside the suitcase or
cardboard box. Do not forget to take the necessary tools, a torque wrench,
bits and this manual with you to be able to assemble the bicycle and to get
it ready for use at your destination.
When you remove the wheels from a bicycle with disc brakes, be sure to
place pad spacers between the brake shoes. Otherwise they can come out
unintentionally and you will have difficulties in bringing them back into posi-
tion. Your bicycle dealer has a variety of brake pad spacers. Pull the brake
levers and fix them with a tape to the handlebars. This will keep the system
free of air.
a
b
 
In purchasing this high quality bicycle you laid the foundation for many years
and miles of enjoyable cycling. Whatever you are planning to do with your
bicycle, be sure to have proper equipment and to keep a few tips in mind.
Your bicycle dealer has a variety of useful accessories on offer enhancing
both your safety and convenience.
Improper accessories may change the qualities of your bicycle
and even cause an accident. Therefore, before fitting any ac-
cessories do contact your bicycle dealer and observe the in-
structions regarding the intended use of your bicycle.

Your bicycle can be fitted with various kinds of accessories . Make
sure to observe the requirements according to the DIN EN standards and
the traffic regulations in your country. Any retrofitted part must be compat-
ible with your bicycle. If you are in doubt or if you have any questions, please
contact your bicycle dealer!
Mounting incompatible parts can result in an accident!
c
d
Before buying any additional bells, horns or lighting acces-
sories, inform yourself thoroughly whether they are permitted
and tested and accordingly approved for use on public roads.
Make sure additional battery/accumulator-operated lamps are
marked with the wavy line and the letter “K”.
Retrofitted accessories, such as mudguards , disc or drum
brakes, pannier racks etc. can impair the functioning of your
bicycle. Ask your bicycle dealer for advice before mounting any
kind of accessories to your bicycle.

The overall load bearing capacity of bicycle trailers for freight transport must
not exceed 40 kg including freight. There are two types of trailer coupling:
There are trailers that are mounted close to the rear axle, whereas others are
attached between saddle and pannier rack. The decision as to the type of
coupling mainly depends on the design of your bicycle. Suspension bicycle
are not designed for trailer towing!
Be sure to observe the operating instructions of the trailer manufacturer.
Bicycle trailers must comply with the requirements of the road traffic regula-
tions.
Practise moving off, braking, turning and cycling down slopes, as a trailer
affects the performance of a bicycle.

Straight handlebars can be fitted with bar ends . Some thin-walled han-
dlebars or carbon handlebars need additional plug ends or other specific
parts to prevent a crushing or bursting of the handlebars. Have these parts
fitted by your bicycle dealer!

There are cycle computers that show your current and average speed, your
daily and annual mileage as well as the duration of the present ride. Real de
luxe models also give the highest speed achieved, differences in elevation,
your cadence or (with a special breast belt) your heart rate .

Baskets for handlebar or stem mounting are suited for the transport of
low-weight items only. Never load the basket with more than 5 kg.
In case you mount a basket to the handlebars, make sure front lamp and re-
flector remain free and steering is not affected. In general, we advise against
mounting a basket to the handlebars, as a negative impact on the perform-
ance of the bicycle cannot be excluded.
Make sure the mounting devices do not damage the handlebars
or the stem. Risk of breakage! Do not bend brake and Bowden
cables.
a
b
c
d
114
115
15.5.6 puncture Kit (a)
The most important accessories for a successful bicycle ride are a tyre
pump and a small tool kit. The tool kit should include two plastic tyre levers,
the most commonly used Allen keys, a spare tube, a tyre repair kit, your
mobile phone and a little cash. In this way you will be well prepared in the
event of a puncture or some other mishap.
15.5.7 Kickstand (b)
Bicycle kickstands are to prevent the bicycle from falling over when parked.
The kickstand you opt for should match your needs.
A centre kickstand is crucial for bicycles fitted with a child carrier because
they prevent the bicycle from toppling over even when loaded. The rider
has both hands free to lift the child into and out of the carrier seat without
unbalancing the bicycle.
Never leave children alone and unsupervised in a parked bicy-
cle, it may topple over!
Twin leg kickstands folding up to one side have become more and more
popular on touring bicycles. They keep the bicycle stable, even with heavy
baggage.
Side kickstands mounted to the bottom of the frame, behind the bottom
bracket or to the rear stay or wheel axle keep the bicycle in a slightly inclined
position. A rubber foot attached to the side kickstand provides added sup-
port on soft surfaces.
If your bicycle is fitted with a telescopic kickstand, you can adjust its length
without tools by simply turning the adjustment wheel. The proper length of
the kickstand is the distance from the pivotal point of the kickstand to the
ground with the bicycle in upright position. Other adjustable side kickstands
are fitted with a visible clamping bolt. The adjustment of this type of kick-
stand requires a wrench or an Allen key.
Your bicycle dealer will be pleased to help you finding an appro-
priate kickstand! Have the kickstand mounted by your bicycle
dealer.
15.5.8 Mirrors
Only fit your bicycle with a tested and approved bicycle mirror.
a
b
15.5.9 Mudguards (a+b)
If you want to fit your bicycle with mudguards, ask your bicycle dealer for
advice. There are removable mudguards, also referred to as clip-on mud-
guards, as well as firmly attached models that provide more protection.
Retro-fittable mudguards designed to be firmly attached are normally made
of plastic and mounted in the correct position by means of additionally fitted
stays. The accurate length of the stay is achieved when the bottom edge of
the mudguard runs parallel to the tyre.
For safety reasons pop off front stays are a must. They are to prevent the
front wheel from getting jammed due to impurities clinging to the tyre. In
such an event the front stay pops off, thus avoiding a possible accident. The
plug-in connection allows an easy re-fixing.
Be sure to replace damaged mudguards!
15.5.10 Bicycle Locks
Best anti-theft protection is provided by stable cable and D-locks (c+d).
With a D-lock you can lock e.g. the bicycle frame to a lamppost, where-
as a cable lock means additional protection for the wheels. The D-lock is
mounted to the frame by means of a bracket, a convenient way of taking
it with you. Cable locks can be fixed under the saddle around the tube, if
your bicycle is not fitted with a frame mounting. Your bicycle dealer will be
pleased to advise you about the various security categories of bicycle locks.
Always fix the lock securely to the bicycle and do not let it hang
down the handlebars.
a
b
c
d
114
115
15.5.6 puncture Kit (a)
The most important accessories for a successful bicycle ride are a tyre
pump and a small tool kit. The tool kit should include two plastic tyre levers,
the most commonly used Allen keys, a spare tube, a tyre repair kit, your
mobile phone and a little cash. In this way you will be well prepared in the
event of a puncture or some other mishap.
15.5.7 Kickstand (b)
Bicycle kickstands are to prevent the bicycle from falling over when parked.
The kickstand you opt for should match your needs.
A centre kickstand is crucial for bicycles fitted with a child carrier because
they prevent the bicycle from toppling over even when loaded. The rider
has both hands free to lift the child into and out of the carrier seat without
unbalancing the bicycle.
Never leave children alone and unsupervised in a parked bicy-
cle, it may topple over!
Twin leg kickstands folding up to one side have become more and more
popular on touring bicycles. They keep the bicycle stable, even with heavy
baggage.
Side kickstands mounted to the bottom of the frame, behind the bottom
bracket or to the rear stay or wheel axle keep the bicycle in a slightly inclined
position. A rubber foot attached to the side kickstand provides added sup-
port on soft surfaces.
If your bicycle is fitted with a telescopic kickstand, you can adjust its length
without tools by simply turning the adjustment wheel. The proper length of
the kickstand is the distance from the pivotal point of the kickstand to the
ground with the bicycle in upright position. Other adjustable side kickstands
are fitted with a visible clamping bolt. The adjustment of this type of kick-
stand requires a wrench or an Allen key.
Your bicycle dealer will be pleased to help you finding an appro-
priate kickstand! Have the kickstand mounted by your bicycle
dealer.
15.5.8 Mirrors
Only fit your bicycle with a tested and approved bicycle mirror.
a
b
15.5.9 Mudguards (a+b)
If you want to fit your bicycle with mudguards, ask your bicycle dealer for
advice. There are removable mudguards, also referred to as clip-on mud-
guards, as well as firmly attached models that provide more protection.
Retro-fittable mudguards designed to be firmly attached are normally made
of plastic and mounted in the correct position by means of additionally fitted
stays. The accurate length of the stay is achieved when the bottom edge of
the mudguard runs parallel to the tyre.
For safety reasons pop off front stays are a must. They are to prevent the
front wheel from getting jammed due to impurities clinging to the tyre. In
such an event the front stay pops off, thus avoiding a possible accident. The
plug-in connection allows an easy re-fixing.
Be sure to replace damaged mudguards!
15.5.10 Bicycle Locks
Best anti-theft protection is provided by stable cable and D-locks (c+d).
With a D-lock you can lock e.g. the bicycle frame to a lamppost, where-
as a cable lock means additional protection for the wheels. The D-lock is
mounted to the frame by means of a bracket, a convenient way of taking
it with you. Cable locks can be fixed under the saddle around the tube, if
your bicycle is not fitted with a frame mounting. Your bicycle dealer will be
pleased to advise you about the various security categories of bicycle locks.
Always fix the lock securely to the bicycle and do not let it hang
down the handlebars.
a
b
c
d


 

Cycling helmets are a must when riding a bicycle. Your bicycle dealer has a
variety of styles and sizes .
Take your time when buying a helmet and keep on the one you prefer for a
while before making your final choice. A good helmet should fit snug without
pinching.
Pay attention to testing symbols indicating the helmet passed the tests re-
quired by the DIN EN 1078 standards.
Be sure to only wear a bicycle helmet during cycling. Observe the manufac-
turer’s instructions.
Never ride without a helmet! But remember that even the safest
helmet is useless unless it fits properly and is correctly adjusted
and fastened .
Always wear an integral helmet and protectors whenever you
set off on a dirt, downhill or freeride bike.

Cycling pants are a must for those who appreciate sitting comfortably in
their saddle. These tight pants have a special padding in the bottom. They
are free of folds, seams and pressure that seams cause. As cycling is certain
to make you sweat, it is advisable to wear jerseys made of synthetic mate-
rial. These kinds of fibres do not absorb any moisture, but transport the
sweat away from your skin to the surface of the fabric, thus avoiding feeling
chilly due to cold headwinds. Be sure to take appropriate waterproof cloth-
ing with you when you set off on a long cycling tour. Your bicycle dealer will
be pleased to help you finding the appropriate clothing.
Never ride with wide-cut trousers or skirts that might get caught
in the spokes, chain or chainrings. To avoid any such mishap,
use suitable clips or straps, if necessary .
For increased visibility to other road users be sure to wear
bright-coloured clothing.
a
b
c
d
 
Apart from a cycling helmet and suitable clothing, cycling glasses are abso-
lutely essential when you set off on your bicycle .
They do not only protect your eyes from the sun and the wind, but also keep
out flies that may impede your vision when they fly into your eyes.
!
Good cycling glasses  should fit tightly to your face not allowing any wind
to affect your eyes. Cycling glasses come in a wide range of models, such
as e.g. glasses with clear lenses and without UV protection for cycling in the
dawn and at night or glasses with maximum UV protection for cycling under
extreme sunlight conditions.
Your bicycle dealer has a wide range of cycling glasses available and will be
pleased to advise you!

Cycling shoes should be made of solid material to provide firm support
for your feet. In addition, they should have a stiff sole so that the pedal can-
not press through. The sole should not be too wide in the area of the heels,
as the rear stays or the crank will otherwise get in the way of your pedalling.
This will prevent your feet from assuming a natural position when pedalling
and may cause knee pain in the long run.
Special cycling shoes are obligatory if your hybrid, mountain or road racing
bike is equipped with clipless pedals . With these shoes small cleats are
fixed to the sole . They give you a firm connection between shoe and pedal
and allow an acceptable walking position.
The main advantage is that these cycling shoes and clipless pedals prevent
your feet from slipping off when pedalling fast or when riding over rough
ground. They enable you not only to push but also to pull the pedals. This
makes your pedalling more fluid and increases the power transmission com-
pared to normal pedals. With clipless pedals you can get off the pedal very
quickly. Just turn your heel to the outside. Practise the engagement and
release of clipless pedals so that you will be prepared to face any difficult
situation.
Read the operating instructions of the pedal manufacturers. If
you are in doubt or if you have any questions, please contact
your bicycle dealer!
The usual way to engage with the pedal is to turn it from the lowest position
of the crank to the horizontal using the tip of the cleat and push down on
the back of it. Normally, the shoe engages with the pedal with a click which
you will hear and feel clearly. Cleats come in different shapes, with varying
release angles and tensions. If you are in doubt or if you have any questions,
please contact your bicycle dealer!
a
b
c
d


 

Cycling helmets are a must when riding a bicycle. Your bicycle dealer has a
variety of styles and sizes .
Take your time when buying a helmet and keep on the one you prefer for a
while before making your final choice. A good helmet should fit snug without
pinching.
Pay attention to testing symbols indicating the helmet passed the tests re-
quired by the DIN EN 1078 standards.
Be sure to only wear a bicycle helmet during cycling. Observe the manufac-
turer’s instructions.
Never ride without a helmet! But remember that even the safest
helmet is useless unless it fits properly and is correctly adjusted
and fastened .
Always wear an integral helmet and protectors whenever you
set off on a dirt, downhill or freeride bike.

Cycling pants are a must for those who appreciate sitting comfortably in
their saddle. These tight pants have a special padding in the bottom. They
are free of folds, seams and pressure that seams cause. As cycling is certain
to make you sweat, it is advisable to wear jerseys made of synthetic mate-
rial. These kinds of fibres do not absorb any moisture, but transport the
sweat away from your skin to the surface of the fabric, thus avoiding feeling
chilly due to cold headwinds. Be sure to take appropriate waterproof cloth-
ing with you when you set off on a long cycling tour. Your bicycle dealer will
be pleased to help you finding the appropriate clothing.
Never ride with wide-cut trousers or skirts that might get caught
in the spokes, chain or chainrings. To avoid any such mishap,
use suitable clips or straps, if necessary .
For increased visibility to other road users be sure to wear
bright-coloured clothing.
a
b
c
d
 
Apart from a cycling helmet and suitable clothing, cycling glasses are abso-
lutely essential when you set off on your bicycle .
They do not only protect your eyes from the sun and the wind, but also keep
out flies that may impede your vision when they fly into your eyes.
!
Good cycling glasses  should fit tightly to your face not allowing any wind
to affect your eyes. Cycling glasses come in a wide range of models, such
as e.g. glasses with clear lenses and without UV protection for cycling in the
dawn and at night or glasses with maximum UV protection for cycling under
extreme sunlight conditions.
Your bicycle dealer has a wide range of cycling glasses available and will be
pleased to advise you!

Cycling shoes should be made of solid material to provide firm support
for your feet. In addition, they should have a stiff sole so that the pedal can-
not press through. The sole should not be too wide in the area of the heels,
as the rear stays or the crank will otherwise get in the way of your pedalling.
This will prevent your feet from assuming a natural position when pedalling
and may cause knee pain in the long run.
Special cycling shoes are obligatory if your hybrid, mountain or road racing
bike is equipped with clipless pedals . With these shoes small cleats are
fixed to the sole . They give you a firm connection between shoe and pedal
and allow an acceptable walking position.
The main advantage is that these cycling shoes and clipless pedals prevent
your feet from slipping off when pedalling fast or when riding over rough
ground. They enable you not only to push but also to pull the pedals. This
makes your pedalling more fluid and increases the power transmission com-
pared to normal pedals. With clipless pedals you can get off the pedal very
quickly. Just turn your heel to the outside. Practise the engagement and
release of clipless pedals so that you will be prepared to face any difficult
situation.
Read the operating instructions of the pedal manufacturers. If
you are in doubt or if you have any questions, please contact
your bicycle dealer!
The usual way to engage with the pedal is to turn it from the lowest position
of the crank to the horizontal using the tip of the cleat and push down on
the back of it. Normally, the shoe engages with the pedal with a click which
you will hear and feel clearly. Cleats come in different shapes, with varying
release angles and tensions. If you are in doubt or if you have any questions,
please contact your bicycle dealer!
a
b
c
d
118
119
Make sure pedals and shoe soles are always clear of mud and
other impurities and grease the lock-in mechanism with lubri-
cant at regular intervals.
Taking up the pedals, engaging and disengaging the shoes
should first be practised while stationary. Later you can refine
your technique in a place free of traffic.
The cleat should be positioned so that the ball of your feet rests over the
pedal spindle (a). Your feet should assume a natural position when pedal-
ling. For most people this means that the heels will point a little inward. Your
bicycle dealer will be pleased to help you adjusting and mounting the pedal
best meeting your demands!
Make sure the fastening bolts of the cleats are properly tight-
ened, as you will find it almost impossible to disengage your
shoe from the pedal, if the cleat is loose. Risk of an accident!
The release force of clipless pedals is adjusted by means of an Allen key (b).
If there are any creaking or squeaking noises occurring, some grease will
solve the problem in most cases. These noises as well as lateral play of the
shoe on the pedal can, however, be also signs of wear. Check the cleats at
regular intervals.
Only use clipless pedals allowing you to engage and disengage
smoothly (c). A defective pedal or a badly worn cleat can make
the shoe disengage from the pedal. Or unclipping the shoe from
the pedal is sometimes very difficult or even impossible. In both
cases, there is the danger of an accident!
Inform yourself at your bicycle dealer about the various models
of cycling shoes available. Cycling shoes come in various styles
for specific uses.
Some mountain bike pedals, also referred to as platform pedals,
are designed for maximum grip of the shoes when dirtbiking
and freeriding (d). For this reason they have sharp edges and/
or bolted pins. As they enhance the risk of injuries during riding,
you should wear protective clothing, e.g. knee and shin guards.
a
b
c
d
16 General Notes on Care and
Inspection
It is advisable to have your bicycle serviced regularly by your bicycle dealer
after the bedding in phase. If your bicycle does harder service, because you
ride a great deal on poor road surfaces or cross-country, it will require cor-
respondingly shorter maintenance periods. The off-season during the winter
months is a very good time to take your bicycle to your bicycle dealer for the
annual inspection, as they will have plenty of time for servicing.
Servicing and repairs are jobs best left to your bicycle dealer. If
you have your bicycle serviced by anyone else than an expert,
you run the risk that parts of your bicycle will fail. This may lead
to an accident! When working on your bicycle restrict yourself
to jobs for which you are equipped e.g. with a torque wrench (a)
and have the necessary knowledge.
If a component needs to be replaced, make it a rule to only use
original spare parts (b).
a
b
Your bicycle dealer will have assembled and adjusted your bicycle ready
for use when you come to collect it. Nevertheless, your bicycle needs regu-
lar servicing. Have your local bicycle dealer do the scheduled maintenance
work. This is the only way to ensure that all components function safely and
reliably for many miles.
The bicycle will be due for its first maintenance after 100 to 300 kilometres
(60 to 180 miles), 5 to 15 hours of initial use or four to six weeks. The bed-
ding in phase typically involves spokes slightly losing tension, cables stretch-
ing, gears becoming out of adjustment and bearings settling, so there is
every reason to have your dealer service the bicycle at this stage. This bed-
ding and settling in process is unavoidable. Therefore, remember to make
an appointment with your bicycle dealer for the first inspection of your new
bicycle. The first inspection is very important for both functioning and dura-
bility of your bicycle.
For your own safety, bring your bicycle to your dealer for its
first inspection after 100 to 300 kilometres (60 to 180 miles), 5
to 15 hours of initial use or four to six weeks, at the very latest
however after three months.
118
119
Make sure pedals and shoe soles are always clear of mud and
other impurities and grease the lock-in mechanism with lubri-
cant at regular intervals.
Taking up the pedals, engaging and disengaging the shoes
should first be practised while stationary. Later you can refine
your technique in a place free of traffic.
The cleat should be positioned so that the ball of your feet rests over the
pedal spindle (a). Your feet should assume a natural position when pedal-
ling. For most people this means that the heels will point a little inward. Your
bicycle dealer will be pleased to help you adjusting and mounting the pedal
best meeting your demands!
Make sure the fastening bolts of the cleats are properly tight-
ened, as you will find it almost impossible to disengage your
shoe from the pedal, if the cleat is loose. Risk of an accident!
The release force of clipless pedals is adjusted by means of an Allen key (b).
If there are any creaking or squeaking noises occurring, some grease will
solve the problem in most cases. These noises as well as lateral play of the
shoe on the pedal can, however, be also signs of wear. Check the cleats at
regular intervals.
Only use clipless pedals allowing you to engage and disengage
smoothly (c). A defective pedal or a badly worn cleat can make
the shoe disengage from the pedal. Or unclipping the shoe from
the pedal is sometimes very difficult or even impossible. In both
cases, there is the danger of an accident!
Inform yourself at your bicycle dealer about the various models
of cycling shoes available. Cycling shoes come in various styles
for specific uses.
Some mountain bike pedals, also referred to as platform pedals,
are designed for maximum grip of the shoes when dirtbiking
and freeriding (d). For this reason they have sharp edges and/
or bolted pins. As they enhance the risk of injuries during riding,
you should wear protective clothing, e.g. knee and shin guards.
a
b
c
d
16 General Notes on Care and
Inspection
It is advisable to have your bicycle serviced regularly by your bicycle dealer
after the bedding in phase. If your bicycle does harder service, because you
ride a great deal on poor road surfaces or cross-country, it will require cor-
respondingly shorter maintenance periods. The off-season during the winter
months is a very good time to take your bicycle to your bicycle dealer for the
annual inspection, as they will have plenty of time for servicing.
Servicing and repairs are jobs best left to your bicycle dealer. If
you have your bicycle serviced by anyone else than an expert,
you run the risk that parts of your bicycle will fail. This may lead
to an accident! When working on your bicycle restrict yourself
to jobs for which you are equipped e.g. with a torque wrench (a)
and have the necessary knowledge.
If a component needs to be replaced, make it a rule to only use
original spare parts (b).
a
b
Your bicycle dealer will have assembled and adjusted your bicycle ready
for use when you come to collect it. Nevertheless, your bicycle needs regu-
lar servicing. Have your local bicycle dealer do the scheduled maintenance
work. This is the only way to ensure that all components function safely and
reliably for many miles.
The bicycle will be due for its first maintenance after 100 to 300 kilometres
(60 to 180 miles), 5 to 15 hours of initial use or four to six weeks. The bed-
ding in phase typically involves spokes slightly losing tension, cables stretch-
ing, gears becoming out of adjustment and bearings settling, so there is
every reason to have your dealer service the bicycle at this stage. This bed-
ding and settling in process is unavoidable. Therefore, remember to make
an appointment with your bicycle dealer for the first inspection of your new
bicycle. The first inspection is very important for both functioning and dura-
bility of your bicycle.
For your own safety, bring your bicycle to your dealer for its
first inspection after 100 to 300 kilometres (60 to 180 miles), 5
to 15 hours of initial use or four to six weeks, at the very latest
however after three months.
120
121
16.1 Cleaning and Caring for the Bicycle
Dried sweat, dirt and salt from riding during the winter months can harm
your bicycle. You should therefore make it a habit of cleaning all its compo-
nents at regular intervals.
Avoid cleaning your bicycle with a pressure water washer. The high-pres-
sure water ejected in a narrowly focused jet may pass through seals and
penetrate bearings. This leads to the dilution of lubricants and consequently
to greater friction. This destroys and impairs the functioning of the bearing
races in the long term. Pressurized water also tends to abrade frame stick-
ers.
A much more gentle way of cleaning your bicycle is with a low pressure
water jet or a bucket of water and a sponge (a) or large brush. Cleaning your
bicycle by hand has another positive side-effect: you may discover defects
in the paint (b) or worn or defective components at an early stage.
Do not clean your bicycle with a high-pressure water or steam
jet and if you do, be sure to keep it at a distance.
While cleaning, watch out for cracks, scratches, dents as well
as bent or discoloured material. Have defective components
replaced immediately and touch up paint defects. If you are in
doubt or if you have any questions, please contact your bicycle
dealer!
Inspect the chain after you have finished cleaning and oil it, if necessary (c)
(see chapter “Chain”). Apply a coat of standard hard wax (d) on painted,
metal and carbon surfaces (except from brake sufaces). Polish the waxed
surfaces after drying to give them a nice shine.
Keep cleaning agents and chain oil clear of the brake pads, ro-
tors and rim sides (braking surfaces). This could impair the func-
tioning of the brake (see chapter „Brake System“)! Never grease
or lubricate the clamping areas of a frame made of carbon, e.g.
handlebars, stem, seat post and seat tube.
Only use petroleum based solvents for cleaning tough oil or
grease stains from paint and carbon surfaces. Never use de-
greasing agents containing acetone, methyl chloride etc., or
solvent-containing, non-neutral or chemical cleaning agents
that could attack the surface!
a
b
c
d
16.2 Sheltering and Storing the Bicycle
If you regularly service your bicycle during the year, you will not need to take
any special precautions when storing it for a short time, apart from securing
it against theft. It is advisable to store the bicycle in a dry and airy place.
There are some things to bear in mind, when putting the bicycle away for
the winter months: Inflated inner tubes tend to gradually lose air when the
bicycle is not used for a long time. If the bicycle is left standing on flat tyres
for an extended period, this can cause damage to the structure of the tyres.
It is therefore better to hang the wheels or the entire bicycle (a) or to check
the tyre pressure regularly (b).
Clean the bicycle (c) and protect it against corrosion. Your bicycle dealer of-
fers a variety of care products, such as spray wax (d) etc. Take off the seat
post and allow for any moisture that may have entered to dry away. Spray
a little finely atomized oil into the seat tube (except for carbon clamping
areas!). Switch the gear to the smallest chainring and the smallest sprocket.
This relaxes the cables and springs as much as possible.
There is usually minimal waiting time for repairs and servicing at
bicycle dealers during the winter months. What is more, many
dealers offer annual checks at a special price. Use the off-sea-
son to take your bicycle to your dealer for inspection!
If your bicycle has carbon rims, do not hang it on the rims! Risk
of breakage!
a
b
c
d
120
121
16.1 Cleaning and Caring for the Bicycle
Dried sweat, dirt and salt from riding during the winter months can harm
your bicycle. You should therefore make it a habit of cleaning all its compo-
nents at regular intervals.
Avoid cleaning your bicycle with a pressure water washer. The high-pres-
sure water ejected in a narrowly focused jet may pass through seals and
penetrate bearings. This leads to the dilution of lubricants and consequently
to greater friction. This destroys and impairs the functioning of the bearing
races in the long term. Pressurized water also tends to abrade frame stick-
ers.
A much more gentle way of cleaning your bicycle is with a low pressure
water jet or a bucket of water and a sponge (a) or large brush. Cleaning your
bicycle by hand has another positive side-effect: you may discover defects
in the paint (b) or worn or defective components at an early stage.
Do not clean your bicycle with a high-pressure water or steam
jet and if you do, be sure to keep it at a distance.
While cleaning, watch out for cracks, scratches, dents as well
as bent or discoloured material. Have defective components
replaced immediately and touch up paint defects. If you are in
doubt or if you have any questions, please contact your bicycle
dealer!
Inspect the chain after you have finished cleaning and oil it, if necessary (c)
(see chapter “Chain”). Apply a coat of standard hard wax (d) on painted,
metal and carbon surfaces (except from brake sufaces). Polish the waxed
surfaces after drying to give them a nice shine.
Keep cleaning agents and chain oil clear of the brake pads, ro-
tors and rim sides (braking surfaces). This could impair the func-
tioning of the brake (see chapter „Brake System“)! Never grease
or lubricate the clamping areas of a frame made of carbon, e.g.
handlebars, stem, seat post and seat tube.
Only use petroleum based solvents for cleaning tough oil or
grease stains from paint and carbon surfaces. Never use de-
greasing agents containing acetone, methyl chloride etc., or
solvent-containing, non-neutral or chemical cleaning agents
that could attack the surface!
a
b
c
d
16.2 Sheltering and Storing the Bicycle
If you regularly service your bicycle during the year, you will not need to take
any special precautions when storing it for a short time, apart from securing
it against theft. It is advisable to store the bicycle in a dry and airy place.
There are some things to bear in mind, when putting the bicycle away for
the winter months: Inflated inner tubes tend to gradually lose air when the
bicycle is not used for a long time. If the bicycle is left standing on flat tyres
for an extended period, this can cause damage to the structure of the tyres.
It is therefore better to hang the wheels or the entire bicycle (a) or to check
the tyre pressure regularly (b).
Clean the bicycle (c) and protect it against corrosion. Your bicycle dealer of-
fers a variety of care products, such as spray wax (d) etc. Take off the seat
post and allow for any moisture that may have entered to dry away. Spray
a little finely atomized oil into the seat tube (except for carbon clamping
areas!). Switch the gear to the smallest chainring and the smallest sprocket.
This relaxes the cables and springs as much as possible.
There is usually minimal waiting time for repairs and servicing at
bicycle dealers during the winter months. What is more, many
dealers offer annual checks at a special price. Use the off-sea-
son to take your bicycle to your dealer for inspection!
If your bicycle has carbon rims, do not hang it on the rims! Risk
of breakage!
a
b
c
d
122
123
17 Service and Maintenance Schedule
Component What to do Before every ride Monthly Annually
Lighting Check
Tyres Check pressure
Tyres Check tread and side walls
Brakes (rim-) Check lever travel, wear of brake pads,
position of pads relative to rim
Brakes (rim-) Test brakes in stationary
Brakes, (rim-), brake pads Clean
Brake cables Visual inspection
Brakes (disc-) Replace liquid (Dot-liquids)
Suspension fork Check and retighten bolts, if necessary
Suspension fork Change oil or grease elastomers
Suspension seat post Service
Suspension seat post Check for play
Rims with rim brakes Check thickness, replace if necessary At the latest after second set of brake pads is worn down
Bottom bracket Check for play
Bottom bracket Regrease (shell)
Chain Check and grease, if necessary
Chain Check and replace, if necessary After 800 km (500 miles)
Crankset Check and retighten, if necessary
Painted / anodised surfaces Impregnate At least every 6 months
Wheels / spokes Check for trueness and tension
Component What to do Before every ride Monthly Annually
Handlebars
(aluminium and carbon) Replace At the latest after 5 years
Headset Check for play
Headset Regrease
Metal surfaces Impregnate At least every 6 months
Hubs Check for play
Hubs Regrease
Pedals Check for play
Pedals (clipless) Clean and grease locking mechanism
Seat post / stem Check clamping bolts
Front / rear derailleur Clean and grease
Quick-release Check seat
Bolts and nuts Check and retighten, if necessary
Spokes Check tension
Valves Check seat
Stem / seat post Dismount and regrease (no grease on carbon!)
Cables gears / brakes Dismount and regrease
You should be able to do the jobs marked bright orange
yourself, provided you have a certain degree of manual skill, a little experience and suitable tools;
this includes, e.g. a torque wrench. If you come across any defects, take appropriate measures without delay. If you are in doubt or if you have any questions,
please contact your bicycle dealer!
Jobs marked dark orange are best left to your bicycle dealer.
122
123
17 Service and Maintenance Schedule
Component What to do Before every ride Monthly Annually
Lighting Check
Tyres Check pressure
Tyres Check tread and side walls
Brakes (rim-) Check lever travel, wear of brake pads,
position of pads relative to rim
Brakes (rim-) Test brakes in stationary
Brakes, (rim-), brake pads Clean
Brake cables Visual inspection
Brakes (disc-) Replace liquid (Dot-liquids)
Suspension fork Check and retighten bolts, if necessary
Suspension fork Change oil or grease elastomers
Suspension seat post Service
Suspension seat post Check for play
Rims with rim brakes Check thickness, replace if necessary At the latest after second set of brake pads is worn down
Bottom bracket Check for play
Bottom bracket Regrease (shell)
Chain Check and grease, if necessary
Chain Check and replace, if necessary After 800 km (500 miles)
Crankset Check and retighten, if necessary
Painted / anodised surfaces Impregnate At least every 6 months
Wheels / spokes Check for trueness and tension
Component What to do Before every ride Monthly Annually
Handlebars
(aluminium and carbon) Replace At the latest after 5 years
Headset Check for play
Headset Regrease
Metal surfaces Impregnate At least every 6 months
Hubs Check for play
Hubs Regrease
Pedals Check for play
Pedals (clipless) Clean and grease locking mechanism
Seat post / stem Check clamping bolts
Front / rear derailleur Clean and grease
Quick-release Check seat
Bolts and nuts Check and retighten, if necessary
Spokes Check tension
Valves Check seat
Stem / seat post Dismount and regrease (no grease on carbon!)
Cables gears / brakes Dismount and regrease
You should be able to do the jobs marked bright orange
yourself, provided you have a certain degree of manual skill, a little experience and suitable tools;
this includes, e.g. a torque wrench. If you come across any defects, take appropriate measures without delay. If you are in doubt or if you have any questions,
please contact your bicycle dealer!
Jobs marked dark orange are best left to your bicycle dealer.
124
125
18 Recommended Tightening Torques
All bolted connections of the bicycle components have to be tightened carefully and checked regularly to ensure the safe and reliable operation of the bicycle.
This is best done with a torque wrench that disengages at the desired tightening torque or a click-type torque wrench.
Tighten carefully by approaching the prescribed maximum torque in small steps (0.5 Nm increments) whilst constantly checking the proper fit of the compo-
nent. Never exceed the maximum tightening torque indicated by the manufacturer! Where no maximum tightening torque is given start with 2 Nm. Observe the
prescribed limit values. Follow the attached instructions of the component manufacturers.
Some components have the maximum permissible tightening torque printed on them. Use a torque wrench and never exceed the maximum
tightening torque! You will find the prescribed values in the present chapter, directly on the components and/or in the manuals of the component
manufacturers.
Assembly Component Torque Nm
Rear derailleur Fastening bolt 8 - 10
Cable fastening 4 - 6
Pulleys 3 - 4
Front derailleur Front derailleur mount 5 - 7
Cable fastening 5 - 7
Shift lever Fastening bolt 5 - 7
STI brake-shift lever Fastening bolt 5 - 7
Brake lever Fastening bolt 5 - 7
Hubs Freewheel body 35 - 39
Crankset / bottom bracket Fastening bolts of squared bottom brackets 35 - 45
Fastening bolts octalink 35 - 50
Bottom bracket square-head 50 - 70
Bottom bracket Hollowtech 2 / Truvativ GXP 30 - 50
Star-shaped nut Hollowtech 2 bottom bracket 0.4 - 0.7
Allen bolts left crank arm Hollowtech 2 10 - 15
Fastening bolt left crank arm Truvativ 48 - 54
Chainring bolts 8 - 11
Pedals 30 - 40
Assembly Component Torque Nm
Stems M5 bolts 5.5 - 8
M6 bolts 9.3 - 13.5
Stem for threaded forks 15
Saddle clamping M4 bolts 3 - 4
M5 bolts 5.5 - 8
M6 bolts 9.5 - 13.5
V-brakes Fastening bolt on cantilever boss 5 - 7
Fastening brake cable 6 - 8
Brake shoes 5 - 7
Clamping of swing arm bearing 5 - 6
Damper bolts 8
Drop-outs Standard 7 - 11
M3 Allen bolts 2 - 3
Bolts, in general (e.g. pannier rack
mounting, bottle cage, etc.) including
carbon frames
M4 2.7
M5 5.5
M6 9.5
M8 23
M10 46
Wheel Wheel nuts (front wheel) 20 - 25
Wheel nuts (rear wheel) 25 - 30
Disc Brakes
Component Magura
Torque Nm
Shimano
Torque Nm
Tektro
Torque Nm
Hayes
Torque Nm
Avid
Torque Nm
Brake calliper 6 6 - 8 8 12 8 - 10
Rotor fixing 4 2 - 4 5 5 6
Brake calliper adapter 8 - 10
Brake lever 3 - 4.5
Brake lever, in general 4 - 7
124
125
18 Recommended Tightening Torques
All bolted connections of the bicycle components have to be tightened carefully and checked regularly to ensure the safe and reliable operation of the bicycle.
This is best done with a torque wrench that disengages at the desired tightening torque or a click-type torque wrench.
Tighten carefully by approaching the prescribed maximum torque in small steps (0.5 Nm increments) whilst constantly checking the proper fit of the compo-
nent. Never exceed the maximum tightening torque indicated by the manufacturer! Where no maximum tightening torque is given start with 2 Nm. Observe the
prescribed limit values. Follow the attached instructions of the component manufacturers.
Some components have the maximum permissible tightening torque printed on them. Use a torque wrench and never exceed the maximum
tightening torque! You will find the prescribed values in the present chapter, directly on the components and/or in the manuals of the component
manufacturers.
Assembly Component Torque Nm
Rear derailleur Fastening bolt 8 - 10
Cable fastening 4 - 6
Pulleys 3 - 4
Front derailleur Front derailleur mount 5 - 7
Cable fastening 5 - 7
Shift lever Fastening bolt 5 - 7
STI brake-shift lever Fastening bolt 5 - 7
Brake lever Fastening bolt 5 - 7
Hubs Freewheel body 35 - 39
Crankset / bottom bracket Fastening bolts of squared bottom brackets 35 - 45
Fastening bolts octalink 35 - 50
Bottom bracket square-head 50 - 70
Bottom bracket Hollowtech 2 / Truvativ GXP 30 - 50
Star-shaped nut Hollowtech 2 bottom bracket 0.4 - 0.7
Allen bolts left crank arm Hollowtech 2 10 - 15
Fastening bolt left crank arm Truvativ 48 - 54
Chainring bolts 8 - 11
Pedals 30 - 40
Assembly Component Torque Nm
Stems M5 bolts 5.5 - 8
M6 bolts 9.3 - 13.5
Stem for threaded forks 15
Saddle clamping M4 bolts 3 - 4
M5 bolts 5.5 - 8
M6 bolts 9.5 - 13.5
V-brakes Fastening bolt on cantilever boss 5 - 7
Fastening brake cable 6 - 8
Brake shoes 5 - 7
Clamping of swing arm bearing 5 - 6
Damper bolts 8
Drop-outs Standard 7 - 11
M3 Allen bolts 2 - 3
Bolts, in general (e.g. pannier rack
mounting, bottle cage, etc.) including
carbon frames
M4 2.7
M5 5.5
M6 9.5
M8 23
M10 46
Wheel Wheel nuts (front wheel) 20 - 25
Wheel nuts (rear wheel) 25 - 30
Disc Brakes
Component Magura
Torque Nm
Shimano
Torque Nm
Tektro
Torque Nm
Hayes
Torque Nm
Avid
Torque Nm
Brake calliper 6 6 - 8 8 12 8 - 10
Rotor fixing 4 2 - 4 5 5 6
Brake calliper adapter 8 - 10
Brake lever 3 - 4.5
Brake lever, in general 4 - 7


19 Warranty and Guarantee
 

With your decision to buy a bicycle of the WINORA-STAIGER group, you
have become the owner of a high-end quality product. In accordance with
the European warranty law, modified as of January 1, 2002, defects of qual-
ity are warranted by your bicycle dealer for a period of 2 years. The period
runs from the delivery of the bicycle by your bicycle dealer. To be able to
present documents verifying the date of purchase and delivery, please keep
the transfer protocol (at the end of this manual) signed by both parties as
well as the receipts, such as invoice and cash slip, in a safe place for at least
two years. Please contact your bicycle dealer in the event of defects.
In addition to the generally warranted period of two years, a reversal in the
burden of proof is applicable for a period of six months as of delivery of the
product. That means the legislator established the refutable presumption
that a defect occurring within six months as of delivery of the bicycle has
already been existent at the moment of delivery.
In the event a defect occurs it therefore rests with the seller to prove that
the defect was not existent at the moment of delivery and is not due to
improper use, misuse or functional wear. After this period it is up to you to
submit evidence.
This new warranty law is only valid in the countries where the
law has been ratified according to the renewed European regu-
lations, e.g. in Germany. Please inform yourself about the situ-
ation in your country!

Damage caused by improper use and force majeure (for more information
on intended use see chapter ).
- All bicycle parts that are subject to wear due to their function, except
for manufacturing faults or material defects (see list of potential wearing
parts further below.)
- Damage occurring as a result of inappropriate or improper care and
inappropriately performed repairs, reassembly or replacement of bicy-
cle components. You will find detailed care instructions in the present
manual.
- Accidental damage or any other unusual impacts coming from outside,
except they are due to faulty information or manufacturing faults.
- Repairs performed by using second hand components or damage oc-
curring as a result thereof.
- Damage occurring as a result of the fact that a product was used for
competitive purposes, though it is not explicitly approved for competitive
use. For more information on the intended use of the bicycle read chap-
ter .
- Retrofitted add-ons not included in the scope of delivery at the moment
of delivery or damage occurring as a result of inappropriate fitting of
these add-on parts.
Please also observe the permissible load specifications and restrictions
on use (child carrier etc.) specified in chapter . Be sure to
follow the assembly instructions of the manufacturers (especially torque
specifcations for bolts) as well as the prescribed maintenance schedule.
Please observe the checks and routines listed in this manual or in any other
manual enclosed with this delivery (see chapter 
) as well as any instructions as to the replacement of safety-rele-
vant components, such as handlebars, brakes etc.

- In the event of manufacturing faults, material defects or faulty informa-
tion.
- In the event the claimed damage or defect has already been existent at
the moment of delivery to the customer.
- In the event the wear or modification of the product is not due to nature
or function (see list of potential wearing parts of the bicycle on the follow-
ing pages).
- In the event the damage or defect did not occur as a result of the
fact that the bicycle was not used according to its intended use.
See chapter .
Be sure to have your bicycle serviced according to the schedule
given in chapter ”Service Schedule”. Read thoroughly through
chapters “Notes on Care and Inspection“ and ”Service and
Maintenance Schedule”. Regular servicing ensures your safety
and cycling joy. On this occasion an expert will anticipate and
remedy possible forthcoming defects.
Keep in mind that retrofitted accessories can impair the func-
tioning of your bicycle. Ask your bicycle dealer for advice before
mounting any kind of accessories on your bicycle.
 

Your bicycle is a technical product that is in need of regular inspection,
care and maintenance. Many parts of your bicycle are subject to wear due
to their function and in need of being maintained with more attention. Be
sure to thoroughly read through the list of wearing parts including definition
further below:

01. Tyres
02. Rims in connection with rim brakes
03. Brake pads
04. Chains and drive belts
05. Chainrings, sprockets, bottom brackets and pulleys
06. Lamps of light set
07. Handlebar tapes/grips
08. Hydraulic oils and lubricants
09. Bowden and brake cables/housings
10. Paint
11. Seals of suspension elements
12. Saddle coverings

The bicycle tyre equipment is inherently subject to wear. It depends on how
the bicycle is used and to a considerable degree on the rider himself. Hard
braking resulting in a blocked tyre will reduce the service life of the tyre.
Furthermore, the air pressure should be checked at regular intervals and
inflated, if necessary, to the pressure specified by the tyre manufacturer. Ex-
cessive sun exposure, fuel, oils etc. may harm the tyre equipment, as well.


19 Warranty and Guarantee
 

With your decision to buy a bicycle of the WINORA-STAIGER group, you
have become the owner of a high-end quality product. In accordance with
the European warranty law, modified as of January 1, 2002, defects of qual-
ity are warranted by your bicycle dealer for a period of 2 years. The period
runs from the delivery of the bicycle by your bicycle dealer. To be able to
present documents verifying the date of purchase and delivery, please keep
the transfer protocol (at the end of this manual) signed by both parties as
well as the receipts, such as invoice and cash slip, in a safe place for at least
two years. Please contact your bicycle dealer in the event of defects.
In addition to the generally warranted period of two years, a reversal in the
burden of proof is applicable for a period of six months as of delivery of the
product. That means the legislator established the refutable presumption
that a defect occurring within six months as of delivery of the bicycle has
already been existent at the moment of delivery.
In the event a defect occurs it therefore rests with the seller to prove that
the defect was not existent at the moment of delivery and is not due to
improper use, misuse or functional wear. After this period it is up to you to
submit evidence.
This new warranty law is only valid in the countries where the
law has been ratified according to the renewed European regu-
lations, e.g. in Germany. Please inform yourself about the situ-
ation in your country!

Damage caused by improper use and force majeure (for more information
on intended use see chapter ).
- All bicycle parts that are subject to wear due to their function, except
for manufacturing faults or material defects (see list of potential wearing
parts further below.)
- Damage occurring as a result of inappropriate or improper care and
inappropriately performed repairs, reassembly or replacement of bicy-
cle components. You will find detailed care instructions in the present
manual.
- Accidental damage or any other unusual impacts coming from outside,
except they are due to faulty information or manufacturing faults.
- Repairs performed by using second hand components or damage oc-
curring as a result thereof.
- Damage occurring as a result of the fact that a product was used for
competitive purposes, though it is not explicitly approved for competitive
use. For more information on the intended use of the bicycle read chap-
ter .
- Retrofitted add-ons not included in the scope of delivery at the moment
of delivery or damage occurring as a result of inappropriate fitting of
these add-on parts.
Please also observe the permissible load specifications and restrictions
on use (child carrier etc.) specified in chapter . Be sure to
follow the assembly instructions of the manufacturers (especially torque
specifcations for bolts) as well as the prescribed maintenance schedule.
Please observe the checks and routines listed in this manual or in any other
manual enclosed with this delivery (see chapter 
) as well as any instructions as to the replacement of safety-rele-
vant components, such as handlebars, brakes etc.

- In the event of manufacturing faults, material defects or faulty informa-
tion.
- In the event the claimed damage or defect has already been existent at
the moment of delivery to the customer.
- In the event the wear or modification of the product is not due to nature
or function (see list of potential wearing parts of the bicycle on the follow-
ing pages).
- In the event the damage or defect did not occur as a result of the
fact that the bicycle was not used according to its intended use.
See chapter .
Be sure to have your bicycle serviced according to the schedule
given in chapter ”Service Schedule”. Read thoroughly through
chapters “Notes on Care and Inspection“ and ”Service and
Maintenance Schedule”. Regular servicing ensures your safety
and cycling joy. On this occasion an expert will anticipate and
remedy possible forthcoming defects.
Keep in mind that retrofitted accessories can impair the func-
tioning of your bicycle. Ask your bicycle dealer for advice before
mounting any kind of accessories on your bicycle.
 

Your bicycle is a technical product that is in need of regular inspection,
care and maintenance. Many parts of your bicycle are subject to wear due
to their function and in need of being maintained with more attention. Be
sure to thoroughly read through the list of wearing parts including definition
further below:

01. Tyres
02. Rims in connection with rim brakes
03. Brake pads
04. Chains and drive belts
05. Chainrings, sprockets, bottom brackets and pulleys
06. Lamps of light set
07. Handlebar tapes/grips
08. Hydraulic oils and lubricants
09. Bowden and brake cables/housings
10. Paint
11. Seals of suspension elements
12. Saddle coverings

The bicycle tyre equipment is inherently subject to wear. It depends on how
the bicycle is used and to a considerable degree on the rider himself. Hard
braking resulting in a blocked tyre will reduce the service life of the tyre.
Furthermore, the air pressure should be checked at regular intervals and
inflated, if necessary, to the pressure specified by the tyre manufacturer. Ex-
cessive sun exposure, fuel, oils etc. may harm the tyre equipment, as well.



Due to the coaction of rim brake and rim, not only the brake pad is subject
to wear due to its function, but also the rim. For this reason the rim should
be checked for wearing at regular intervals. The occurrence of fine cracks or
the deformation of the rim edges as a result of an increased air pressure are
signs of advanced wearing. Rims with wear indicators will tell you whether
the rim is worn down or not. See chapter .

Pads of rim, drum and disc brakes are inherently subject to wear. It depends
on how the bicycle is used. Cycling over hilly terrain or sport cycling may
involve a replacement of the brake pads at shorter intervals. Regularly check
the wearing of the pads and have them replaced by your bicycle dealer.

The bicycle chain is inherently subject to wear. The rate of wear will depend
on care and maintenance and the way you use your bicycle (extent of use,
riding in the rain, dirt, salt etc.). Regular cleaning and oiling may lengthen its
service life. If it has reached its limit of wear, however, it must be replaced.
Cycling with a worn down chain may damage further parts of the drive. See
chapter .

The sprockets, chainrings, bottom brackets and jockey wheels of bicycles
with derailleur gears are subject to wear due to their function. Regular clean-
ing and lubrication may lengthen the service life. If they have reached their
limit of wear, however, they must be replaced. The rate of wear will depend
on care, maintenance and the way you use your bicycle (extent of use, riding
in the rain, dirt, salt etc.).

Light bulbs and other lamps are inherently subject to wear. For this reason
they may be in need of replacement. Always take replacement bulbs on a
cycling tour to be able to carry out the replacement.

Handlebar tapes and grips are subject to wear due to their function. For this
reason a replacement at regular intervals may be necessary. Make sure the
grips are tight on the handlebars.

Hydraulic oils and lubricants become ineffective over time.
All points of lubrication should be cleaned and relubricated at regular in-
tervals. Old lubricants that are not removed and re-applied lead to an in-
creased wearing of the add-on parts and bearings concerned.

All Bowden cables must be serviced at regular intervals and replaced, if
necessary. This becomes particularly acute, when the bicycle is often left in
the open and exposed to weather influences.

The paint is in need of regular care. Regularly check all painted surfaces for
damage and touch up paint defects immediately. If necessary, protect the
paint from rubbing cables as well as the chain stay by means of adhesive,
transparent straps. This will preserve the finish of your bicycle.
 
In addition to the warranty WINORA-STAIGER GmbH provide an additional
guarantee in terms of quality, durability and sound condition for the frames.
In the event of a claim, your direct contact is your bicycle dealer, who will be
pleased to answer your inquiries.
The frames are warranted from the date of purchase to the initial buyer for
all bicycles as of model year 2009
- 5 years for aluminium frames
- 5 years for carbon frames
- 5 years for full-suspension frames (except: bearings and rear shocks)
The WINORA-STAIGER GmbH guarantee is nontransferable. It only applies
to the initial buyer and upon presentation of the receipt and a copy of the
completely filled in delivery protocol. The guarantee does not cover labour
and transport costs, nor does it cover follow up costs resulting from defects.
It does not cover damage resulting from wear, neglect (insufficient care
and maintenance), accidents, overstress caused by overloading, incorrect
assembly (non-observance of manufacturer’s assembly instructions) or
improper treatment or damage resulting from changes to the bicycle (e.g.
mounting or alteration of additional components). For damage resulting from
jumps or any other undue stress as well as from noncompliance with recom-
mendations in this manual or your bicycle dealer’s advise there shall be no
claim under guarantee. For more information on the intended use, please
read the respective chapter of the present manual.
Further claims against us, in particular claims to reduction or for damages,
shall remain unconsidered by this guarantee. Performance of any service
within this guarantee by WINORA-STAIGER GmbH shall not extend or re-
start the guarantee period.
In the event of unjustified return deliveries we reserve ourselves the right to
invoice a flat-rate fee for the expenses incurred to us.
WINORA GROUP
Winora-Staiger GmbH
97404 Schweinfurt
Phone: +49 (0) 9721 / 65 01-0
Mail: info@winora-group.de



Due to the coaction of rim brake and rim, not only the brake pad is subject
to wear due to its function, but also the rim. For this reason the rim should
be checked for wearing at regular intervals. The occurrence of fine cracks or
the deformation of the rim edges as a result of an increased air pressure are
signs of advanced wearing. Rims with wear indicators will tell you whether
the rim is worn down or not. See chapter .

Pads of rim, drum and disc brakes are inherently subject to wear. It depends
on how the bicycle is used. Cycling over hilly terrain or sport cycling may
involve a replacement of the brake pads at shorter intervals. Regularly check
the wearing of the pads and have them replaced by your bicycle dealer.

The bicycle chain is inherently subject to wear. The rate of wear will depend
on care and maintenance and the way you use your bicycle (extent of use,
riding in the rain, dirt, salt etc.). Regular cleaning and oiling may lengthen its
service life. If it has reached its limit of wear, however, it must be replaced.
Cycling with a worn down chain may damage further parts of the drive. See
chapter .

The sprockets, chainrings, bottom brackets and jockey wheels of bicycles
with derailleur gears are subject to wear due to their function. Regular clean-
ing and lubrication may lengthen the service life. If they have reached their
limit of wear, however, they must be replaced. The rate of wear will depend
on care, maintenance and the way you use your bicycle (extent of use, riding
in the rain, dirt, salt etc.).

Light bulbs and other lamps are inherently subject to wear. For this reason
they may be in need of replacement. Always take replacement bulbs on a
cycling tour to be able to carry out the replacement.

Handlebar tapes and grips are subject to wear due to their function. For this
reason a replacement at regular intervals may be necessary. Make sure the
grips are tight on the handlebars.

Hydraulic oils and lubricants become ineffective over time.
All points of lubrication should be cleaned and relubricated at regular in-
tervals. Old lubricants that are not removed and re-applied lead to an in-
creased wearing of the add-on parts and bearings concerned.

All Bowden cables must be serviced at regular intervals and replaced, if
necessary. This becomes particularly acute, when the bicycle is often left in
the open and exposed to weather influences.

The paint is in need of regular care. Regularly check all painted surfaces for
damage and touch up paint defects immediately. If necessary, protect the
paint from rubbing cables as well as the chain stay by means of adhesive,
transparent straps. This will preserve the finish of your bicycle.
 
In addition to the warranty WINORA-STAIGER GmbH provide an additional
guarantee in terms of quality, durability and sound condition for the frames.
In the event of a claim, your direct contact is your bicycle dealer, who will be
pleased to answer your inquiries.
The frames are warranted from the date of purchase to the initial buyer for
all bicycles as of model year 2009
- 5 years for aluminium frames
- 5 years for carbon frames
- 5 years for full-suspension frames (except: bearings and rear shocks)
The WINORA-STAIGER GmbH guarantee is nontransferable. It only applies
to the initial buyer and upon presentation of the receipt and a copy of the
completely filled in delivery protocol. The guarantee does not cover labour
and transport costs, nor does it cover follow up costs resulting from defects.
It does not cover damage resulting from wear, neglect (insufficient care
and maintenance), accidents, overstress caused by overloading, incorrect
assembly (non-observance of manufacturer’s assembly instructions) or
improper treatment or damage resulting from changes to the bicycle (e.g.
mounting or alteration of additional components). For damage resulting from
jumps or any other undue stress as well as from noncompliance with recom-
mendations in this manual or your bicycle dealer’s advise there shall be no
claim under guarantee. For more information on the intended use, please
read the respective chapter of the present manual.
Further claims against us, in particular claims to reduction or for damages,
shall remain unconsidered by this guarantee. Performance of any service
within this guarantee by WINORA-STAIGER GmbH shall not extend or re-
start the guarantee period.
In the event of unjustified return deliveries we reserve ourselves the right to
invoice a flat-rate fee for the expenses incurred to us.
WINORA GROUP
Winora-Staiger GmbH
97404 Schweinfurt
Phone: +49 (0) 9721 / 65 01-0
Mail: info@winora-group.de
130
131
20 Service Schedule (to be stamped)
1st Service
After 300 kilometres (180 miles) or 15 hours of use
or three months after date of purchase
Order no.: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Date: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Replaced or repaired parts:
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Stamp and signature
of the dealer:
2nd Service
After 2000 kilometres (1200 miles) or 100 hours of
use or one year after date of purchase
Order no.: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Date: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Replaced or repaired parts:
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Stamp and signature
of the dealer:
3rd Service
After 4000 kilometres (2400 miles) or 200 hours of
use or two years after date of purchase
Order no.: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Date: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Replaced or repaired parts:
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Stamp and signature
of the dealer:
4th Service
After 6000 kilometres (3700 miles) or 300 hours of
use or three years after date of purchase
Order no.: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Date: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Replaced or repaired parts:
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
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. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Stamp and signature
of the dealer:
5th Service
After 8000 kilometres (4900 miles) or 400 hours of
use or four years after date of purchase
Order no.: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Date: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Replaced or repaired parts:
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
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. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
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. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Stamp and signature
of the dealer:
6th Service
After 10000 kilometres (6200 miles) or 500 hours
of use or five years after date of purchase
Order no.: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Date: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Replaced or repaired parts:
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
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. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Stamp and signature
of the dealer:
130
131
20 Service Schedule (to be stamped)
1st Service
After 300 kilometres (180 miles) or 15 hours of use
or three months after date of purchase
Order no.: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Date: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Replaced or repaired parts:
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
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. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
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. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Stamp and signature
of the dealer:
2nd Service
After 2000 kilometres (1200 miles) or 100 hours of
use or one year after date of purchase
Order no.: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Date: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Replaced or repaired parts:
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Stamp and signature
of the dealer:
3rd Service
After 4000 kilometres (2400 miles) or 200 hours of
use or two years after date of purchase
Order no.: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Date: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Replaced or repaired parts:
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Stamp and signature
of the dealer:
4th Service
After 6000 kilometres (3700 miles) or 300 hours of
use or three years after date of purchase
Order no.: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Date: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Replaced or repaired parts:
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Stamp and signature
of the dealer:
5th Service
After 8000 kilometres (4900 miles) or 400 hours of
use or four years after date of purchase
Order no.: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Date: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Replaced or repaired parts:
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Stamp and signature
of the dealer:
6th Service
After 10000 kilometres (6200 miles) or 500 hours
of use or five years after date of purchase
Order no.: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Date: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Replaced or repaired parts:
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Stamp and signature
of the dealer:
Handover Report
Customer, Last name, First name
Street
ZIP code Town
Phone Delivery date (DD/MM/YYYY)
Manufacturer Model
Frame no./Frame size Type/Category
Confirmation
I have thoroughly checked the product listed above. The item that was delivered was complete and
without any visible damage. I have received the instructions for use with the care and maintenance
information, and I was also instructed verbally. I am fully aware that obligations of the seller with re-
gard to warranty only apply to defects in the product. There is no warranty for damage due to wear
and tear arising from the use of the product, especially if that damage is to be regarded as “normal in
use.” Explanations on typical damage due to wear and tear are given in the corresponding chapters
of the Winora Group operating instructions.
Date/Signature of the buyer Comments:
Delivery date, dealer stamp and signature
Delivery receipt for a new bicycle
One counterfoil is to be kept by your Winora Group dealer, the second counterfoil
is intended to be kept in your documents and remains in the service book.
Handover Report
Customer, Last name, First name
Street
ZIP code Town
Phone Delivery date (DD/MM/YYYY)
Manufacturer Model
Frame no./Frame size Type/Category
Confirmation
I have thoroughly checked the product listed above. The item that was delivered was complete and
without any visible damage. I have received the instructions for use with the care and maintenance
information, and I was also instructed verbally. I am fully aware that obligations of the seller with re-
gard to warranty only apply to defects in the product. There is no warranty for damage due to wear
and tear arising from the use of the product, especially if that damage is to be regarded as “normal in
use.” Explanations on typical damage due to wear and tear are given in the corresponding chapters
of the Winora Group operating instructions.
Date/Signature of the buyer Comments:
Delivery date, dealer stamp and signature
Delivery receipt for a new bicycle
One counterfoil is to be kept by your Winora Group dealer, the second counterfoil
is intended to be kept in your documents and remains in the service book.
132
Notes
WINORA GROUP | Winora-Staiger GmbH | Max-Planck-Straße 6 | 97526 Sennfeld (Germany)
+49 (0) 9721 6501-0 | +49 (0) 9721 6501-45 | info@winora-group.de | www.winora-group.de
18

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