Handleiding Ryobi RY18PSX10A (pagina 6 van 240) (Alle talen)

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6Original Instructions

■Charge the battery pack in a location where the ambient

temperature is between 10°C and 38°C.

■Store the battery pack in a location where the ambient

temperature is between 0°C and 20°C.

INSTRUCTIONS CONCERNING THE PROPER

TECHNIQUES FOR BASIC LIMBING AND CROSS-

CUTTING

UNDERSTANDING THE FORCES WITHIN THE WOOD

When you understand the directional pressures and

stresses inside the wood, you can reduce the pinches or at

least expect them during your cutting. Tension in the wood

means the ﬁ bres are being pulled apart, and if you cut in this

area, the kerf or cut tends to open as the saw goes through.

If a log is being supported on a saw-horse and the end is

hanging unsupported over the end, tension is created on

the upper surface due to the weight of the overhanging log

stretching the ﬁ bres. Likewise, the underside of the log is

compressed and the ﬁ bres are being pushed together. If a

cut is made in this area, the kerf tends to close up during the

cut. This cut would pinch the blade.

PUSH AND PULL

The reaction force is always opposite to the direction the

chain is moving. The operator must be ready to control the

tendency for the product to pull away and push backwards.

The product pulls away (forward motion) when cutting on

the bottom edge of the bar. The product pushes backwards

(towards the operator) when cutting along the top edge.

SAW JAMMED IN THE CUT

Turn oﬀ the product, and remove the battery pack. Do not

try to force the chain and bar out of the cut as this is likely

to break the chain, which may swing back and strike the

operator. This situation normally occurs because the wood

is incorrectly supported, which forces the cut to close under

compression, thereby pinching the blade. If adjusting the

support does not release the bar and chain, use wooden

wedges or a lever to open the cut and release the saw.

Never try to start the pruning saw when the guide bar is

already in a cut or kerf.

SKATING/BOUNCING

When the pruning saw fails to dig in during a cut, the guide

bar can begin hopping or dangerously skidding along the

surface of the log or branch, possibly resulting in the loss of

control of the pruning saw. To prevent or reduce skating or

bouncing, always use the saw with both hands. Make sure

that the saw chain establishes a groove for cutting.

Never cut small, ﬂ exible branches or brushes with your

pruning saw. Their size and ﬂ exibility can easily cause the

saw to bounce towards you or bind up with enough force

to cause a kickback. The best tool for that kind of work is

a hand saw, pruning shears, an axe, or other hand tools.

BUCKING A LOG

Bucking is cutting a log into lengths. It is important to make

sure your footing is ﬁ rm and your weight is evenly distributed

on both feet. When possible, the log should be raised and

supported by the use of limbs, logs or chocks. Follow the

simple directions for easy cutting. When the log is supported

along its entire length, it is cut from the top (overbuck).

When the log is supported on one end, cut 1/3 the diameter

from the underside (underbuck). Then make the ﬁ nished cut

by overbucking to meet the ﬁ rst cut.

1/3

2/3

When the log is supported on both ends, cut 1/3 the

diameter from the top (overbuck). Then make the ﬁ nished

cut by underbucking the lower 2/3 to meet the ﬁ rst cut.

2/3

1/3

When bucking on a slope always stand on the uphill side of

the log. To maintain control when “cutting through”, release

the cutting pressure near the end of the cut without relaxing

your grip on the pruning saw handles. Do not let the chain

contact the ground. After completing the cut, wait for the saw

chain to stop before you move the pruning saw. Always stop

the motor before moving from tree to tree.

LIMBING A TREE

Limbing is removing the branches from a fallen tree. When

limbing, leave larger lower limbs to support the log oﬀ the

ground. Remove the small limbs in one cut. Branches under

tension should be cut from the bottom up to avoid binding

the pruning saw.

SPRINGPOLES

A springpole is any log, branch, rooted stump, or sapling

that is bent under tension by other wood so that it springs

back if the wood holding it is cut or removed.

On a fallen tree, a rooted stump has a high potential of

springing back to the upright position during the bucking

cut to separate the log from the stump. Watch out for

springpoles—they are dangerous. Do not attempt to cut

bent branches or stumps that are under tension unless you

are professionally trained and competent to do so.

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