Handleiding Kona 2016 (pagina 12 van 23) (Engels)

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KONA OWNER’S MANUAL

a shorter distance with each pedal crank revolution.

Moving the chain from a smaller sprocket of the gear

cluster to a larger sprocket results in a downshift.

Moving the chain from a larger sprocket to a smaller

sprocket results in an upshift. In order for the derailleur

to move the chain from one sprocket to another, the

rider must be pedaling forward.

C) Shifting the Front Derailleur

The front derailleur, which is controlled by the left

shifter, shifts the chain between the larger and smaller

chainrings. Shifting the chain onto a smaller chainring

makes pedaling easier (a downshift). Shifting to a

larger chainring makes pedaling harder (an upshift).

D) Which gear should I be in?

The combination of largest rear and smallest front

gears [Fig. 16] is for the steepest hills. The smallest

rear and largest front combination [Fig. 16] is for the

greatest speed. It is not necessary to shift gears in

sequence. Instead, nd the “starting gear” which is

right for your level of ability — a gear which is hard

enough for quick acceleration but easy enough to

let you start from a stop without wobbling — and

experiment with upshifting and downshifting to get

a feel for the different gear combinations. At rst,

practice shifting where there are no obstacles, hazards

or other trafc, until you’ve built up your condence.

Learn not to use either the “smallest to smallest”

or “largest to largest” gear combinations because

they may cause unacceptable stress on the drive

train. Learn to anticipate the need to shift, and shift

to a lower gear before the hill gets too steep. If you

have difculties with shifting, the problem could be

mechanical adjustment. See your dealer for help.

easier on a hill (make a downshift) in one of two ways:

shift the chain down the gear “steps” to a smaller gear

at the front, or up the gear “steps” to a larger gear

at the rear. So, at the rear gear cluster, what is called

a downshift looks like an upshift. The way to keep

things straight is to remember that shifting the chain

in towards the centerline of the bike is for accelerating

and climbing and is called a downshift. Moving the

chain out or away from the centerline of the bike is

for speed and is called an upshift.

Whether upshifting

or downshifting, the bicycle derailleur system design

requires that the drive chain be moving forward and be

under at least some tension. A derailleur will shift only

if you are pedaling forward.

CAUTION: Never move the shifter while

pedaling backward, nor pedal

backwards after having moved

the shifter. This could jam the

chain and cause serious damage

to the bicycle.

B) Shifting the Rear Derailleur

The rear derailleur is controlled by

the right shifter. The function of

the rear derailleur is to move the

drive chain from one gear sprocket

to another. The smaller sprockets

on the gear cluster produce higher

gear ratios. Pedaling in the higher

gears requires greater pedaling

effort, but takes you a greater

distance with each revolution

of the pedal cranks. The larger

sprockets produce lower gear

ratios. Using them requires less

pedaling effort, but takes you

without locking up a wheel. The technique is called

progressive brake modulation. Instead of jerking the

brake lever to the position where you think you’ll generate

appropriate braking force, squeeze the lever, progressively

increasing the braking force. If you feel the wheel begin

to lock up, release pressure just a little to keep the wheel

rotating just short of lockup. It’s important to develop a

feel for the amount of brake lever pressure required for

each wheel at different speeds and on different surfaces.

To better understand this, experiment a little by walking

your bike and applying different amounts of pressure to

each brake lever, until the wheel locks.

When you apply one or both brakes, the bike begins to

slow, but your body wants to continue at the speed at which

it was going. This causes a transfer of weight to the front

wheel (or, under heavy braking, around the front wheel hub,

which could send you ying over the handlebars).

A wheel with more weight on it will accept greater brake

pressure before lockup; a wheel with less weight will lock

up with less brake pressure. So, as you apply brakes and

your weight is transferred forward, you need to shift your

body toward the rear of the bike, to transfer weight back

on to the rear wheel; and at the same time, you need to

both decrease rear braking and increase front braking

force. This is even more important on descents, because

descents shift weight forward.

Two keys to effective speed control and safe stopping are

controlling wheel lockup and weight transfer. This weight

transfer is even more pronounced if your bike has a front

suspension fork. Front suspension “dips” under braking,

increasing the weight transfer (see also Section 4.F).

Practice braking and weight transfer techniques where

there is no trafc or other hazards and distractions.

Everything changes when you ride on loose surfaces or in

wet weather. It will take longer to stop on loose surfaces

22 23

or in wet weather. Tire adhesion is reduced, so the wheels

have less cornering and braking traction and can lock up

with less brake force. Moisture or dirt on the brake pads

reduces their ability to grip. The way to maintain control

on loose or wet surfaces is to go more slowly.

D) SHIFTING GEARS

Your multi-speed bicycle will have a derailleur drivetrain,

an internal gear hub drivetrain or, in some special cases,

a combination of the two.

1. How a derailleur drivetrain works

If your bicycle has a derailleur drivetrain, the gear-

changing mechanism will have:

• a rear cassette or freewheel sprocket cluster

• a rear derailleur

• usually a front derailleur

• one or two shifters

• one, two or three front sprockets called chainrings

• a drive chain

A) Shifting Gears

There are several different types and styles of shifting

controls: levers, twist grips, triggers, combination shift/

brake controls and push-buttons. Ask your dealer to

explain the type of shifting controls that are on your bike,

and to show you how they work.

The vocabulary of shifting can be pretty confusing.

A downshift is a shift to a “slower” gear, one which is easier

to pedal. An upshift is a shift to a “faster”, harder to pedal

gear. What’s confusing is that what’s happening at the front

derailleur is the opposite of what’s happening at the rear

derailleur (for details, read the instructions on Shifting the

Rear Derailleur and Shifting the Front Derailleur below). For

example, you can select a gear which will make pedaling

Kona 2016 Handleiding

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