523331

Janome 423S Handleiding

33
Verklein
Vergroot
Pagina terug
1/34
Pagina verder
Models 419S & 423S
IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS
When using an electrical appliance, basic safety precautions should always be followed, including the followings:
Read all instructions before using this appliance.
DANGER –To reduce the risk of electric shock:
1. An appliance should never be left unattended when plugged in. Always unplug this sewing machine from the
electric outlet immediately after using and before cleaning.
2. Always unplug before replacing a sewing machine bulb. Replace bulb with same type rated 15 Watts.
WARNING – To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock, or injury to persons:
1. Do not allow to be used as a toy. Close attention is necessary when this sewing machine is used by or near
children.
2. Use this appliance only for its intended use as described in this manual.
Use only attachments recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual.
3. Never operate this sewing machine if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly, if it has been
dropped or damaged, or dropped into water.
Return this sewing machine to the nearest authorized dealers or service center for examination, repair,
electrical or mechanical adjustment.
4. Never operate the appliance with any air opening blocked. Keep ventilation openings of this sewing machine
and foot control free from accumulation of lint, dust and loose cloth.
5. Never drop or insert any object into any opening.
6. Do not use outdoors.
7. Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being administered.
8. To disconnect, turn all controls to the off ("O") position, then remove plug from outlet.
9. Do not unplug by pulling on cord. To unplug, grasp the plug, not the cord.
10. Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the sewing machine needle.
11. Always use the proper needle plate. The wrong plate can cause the needle to break.
12. Do not use bent needles.
13. Do not pull or push fabric while stitching. It may deflect the needle causing it to break.
14. Switch this sewing machine off ("O") when making any adjustment in the needle area, such as threading the
needle, changing the needle, threading the bobbin or changing the presser foot, and the like.
15. Always unplug this sewing machine from the electrical outlet when removing covers, lubricating, or when
making any other adjustments mentioned in this manual.
SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS
1
TABLE OF CONTENTS
SECTION 1. ESSENTIAL PARTS
Name of Parts .................................................................................................................................... 2
SECTION 2. GETTING READY TO SEW
Extension Table ................................................................................................................................. 3
Standard Accessories ........................................................................................................................ 3
Accessory Storage Box ..................................................................................................................... 3
Connecting the Machine to the Power Supply ................................................................................... 4
Foot Control ....................................................................................................................................... 4
Presser Foot Lifter ............................................................................................................................. 5
To Attach and Remove the Presser Foot .......................................................................................... 5
Presser Foot Pressure Adjusting Dial ................................................................................................ 5
Changing Needle ............................................................................................................................... 6
To check the needle ...................................................................................................................... 6
Thread and Needle Chart .................................................................................................................. 6
Setting Spool Pins ............................................................................................................................. 7
Removing or Inserting the Bobbin Case ............................................................................................ 7
Winding the Bobbin............................................................................................................................ 8
Threading Bobbin Case ..................................................................................................................... 8
Threading the Machine ...................................................................................................................... 9
Needle Threader ................................................................................................................................ 10
Drawing Up Bobbin Thread ............................................................................................................... 10
Balancing Needle Thread Tension .................................................................................................... 11
Pattern Selector Dial .......................................................................................................................... 12
Stitch Length Control ......................................................................................................................... 12
Stitch Width Control ........................................................................................................................... 12
Reverse Stitch Button ........................................................................................................................ 13
Dropping the Feed Dog ..................................................................................................................... 13
SECTION 3. BASIC SEWING
Straight Stitch Sewing........................................................................................................................ 14
To Change Sewing Direction ............................................................................................................. 14
Seam Guides Line ............................................................................................................................. 15
Variable Needle Position ................................................................................................................... 15
Zigzag Stitching ................................................................................................................................. 16
SECTION 4. UTILITY STITCHING
Overcasting........................................................................................................................................ 16
Tricot Stitch ........................................................................................................................................ 17
Knit Stitch........................................................................................................................................... 17
Straight Stretch Stitch ........................................................................................................................ 18
Sewing on Buttons ............................................................................................................................. 19
Buttonhole.......................................................................................................................................... 20–21
To adjust buttonhole stitch density ................................................................................................. 21
Corded Buttonhole ............................................................................................................................. 22
Zipper Application .............................................................................................................................. 23
Blind Stitch Hemming ........................................................................................................................ 24
Rolled Hem ........................................................................................................................................ 25
SECTION 5. DECORATIVE STITCHING
Shell Tuck .......................................................................................................................................... 26
Stretch Stitch Patterns ....................................................................................................................... 26
Smocking ........................................................................................................................................... 27
Box Stitching ...................................................................................................................................... 27
Applique ............................................................................................................................................. 28
Decorative Satin Stitch Patterns ........................................................................................................ 28
SECTION 6. CARE OF YOUR MACHINE
Dismantling and Assembling Hook Race Unit ................................................................................... 29
Cleaning the Feed Dog ...................................................................................................................... 29
Oiling the Machine ............................................................................................................................. 30
Oiling behind the face plate ............................................................................................................ 30
Oiling the shuttle hook area ............................................................................................................ 30
Sewing Light ...................................................................................................................................... 30
Troubleshooting ................................................................................................................................. 31
2
SECTION 1. ESSENTIAL PARTS
Name of Parts
1 Reverse stitch button
2 Pattern selector dial
3 Stitch width control
4 Stitch length control
5 Bobbin winder stopper
6 Bobbin winder spindle
7 Spool pins
8 Bobbin winder thread guide
9 Thread guide
10 Thread take-up lever
11 Thread tension dial
12 Pressure adjusting dial
13 Face plate
14 Thread cutter
15 Needle threader
16 Needle plate
17 Presser foot holder
18 Needle clamp
19 Needle
20 Presser foot
21 Extension table
22 Carrying handle
23 Handwheel
24 Power switch
25 Machine socket
26 Free arm
27 Buttonhole lever
28 Presser foot lifter
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26
Note : The design and specifications are subject to change without
prior notice.
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28
3
Extension Table
The extension table provides added sewing surface and can
be easily removed for free arm sewing.
Detaching the table:
Pull the table away from the machine.
Attaching the table:
Push the extension table until it snaps into the machine.
Advantages and uses of free arm sewing:
Å[ Avoid fabric bunching around the needle when
bartacking to reinforce pockets, plackets and waistlines.
Å[ For stitching sleeves, waistbands, pant legs or any
circular garment area
Å[ For darning socks or mending knees, elbows or areas
of wear in children's clothes
Standard Accessories
Zipper foot
Automatic buttonhole foot
Hemmer foot
Bobbins
Set of needles
Seam ripper
screwdriver
Oil
Hem guide
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2
3
4
5
6
7
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3
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7
SECTION 2. GETTING READY TO SEW
8
Accessory storage box
8
Accessory Storage Box
Sewing accessories are conveniently located in the extension
table.
9
9
1
1
4
Connecting the Machine to the Power Supply
Before connecting the power cord, make sure the voltage and
frequency shown on the machine conform to your electrical power.
1. Turn off the power switch.
2. Insert the machine plug into the machine socket.
3. Insert the power supply plug into the outlet .
4. Turn on the power switch to turn on the power and sewing
light.
Foot control
Sewing speed can be varied by the foot control.
The harder you press on the control, the faster the machine runs.
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2
3
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6
1
Power supply plug Power switch
Outlet Machine socket
Machine plug Foot control
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6
Caution : Do not place anything on the foot contorol, otherwise
the machine will start advertently.
The symbol “0” on a switch indicates the “off” position of a switch.
For appliances with a polarized plug
(one blade wider than the other):
To reduce the risk of electric shock, this plug is intended to fit in
a polarized outlet only one way.
If the plug does not fit fully in the outlet, reverse the plug.
If it still does not fit, contact a qualified electrician to install the
proper outlet.
Do not modify the plug in any way.
Foot Control Model YC-482J or TJC-150 is used with Sewing
Machine Models 419S and 423S. (For U.S.A. market only)
Operating Instruction:
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5
To Attach and Remove the Presser Foot
To remove
Turn the handwheel toward you to raise the needle to its highest
position.
Raise the presser foot.
Press the lever on the back of the foot holder.
The presser foot will drop off.
To attach
Place the presser foot so the pin on the foot lies just under the
groove of the foot holder.
Lower the foot holder to lock the foot in place.
Presser Foot Lifter
The presser foot lifter raises and lowers your presser foot.
You can raise it about 0.6 cm (1/4") higher than the normal up
position for easy removal of the presser foot or to help you to
place heavy fabric under the foot.
Normal up position
Highest position
1
2
1
2
0
1
2
3
Presser Foot Pressure Adjusting Dial
The Presser foot pressure adjusting dial should be set at 3
for regular sewing.
Reduce the pressure to 2 for applique, cutwork, drawnwork,
basting and embroidery for better maneuverability of fabric.
Velours and knit with a lot of stretch may require a 1 setting.
6
Thread and Needle Chart
Fabrics Thread
Needle Size
Crepe de Chine, Voile, Fine Silk 9/65
Lawn, Organdy, Fine Cotton or
Georgette,
Fine Synthetic 11/75
Tricot Fine Cotton
Covered
Polyester
Linens, Cotton, Pique, 50 Silk 11/75
Serge, Double Knits,
50 to 80 Cotton or
Percale 50 to 60
14/90
Synthetic
Cotton Covered
Polyester
Denim, Tweed, 50 Silk 14/90
Gabardine,
Coating, Drapery and 40 to 50 Cotton
Upholstery Fabric 40 to 50 16/100
Synthetic
Cotton Covered
Polyester
Light
weight
Medium
weight
Heavy
weight
* In general, fine threads and needles are used for sewing
thin fabrics, and thicker threads and needles are used for
sewing heavy fabrics. Always test thread and needle size
on a small piece of fabric which will be used for actual sewing.
* Use the same thread for needle and bobbin.
* When sewing stretch, very fine fabrics and synthetics,use
a BLUE TIPPED needle.
The blue tipped needle effectively prevents skipped stitches.
* When sewing very fine fabrics, sew over a piece of paper
to prevent seam puckering.
Changing Needle
Raise the needle by turning the handwheel toward you and
lower the presser foot.
Loosen the needle clamp screw by turning it counterclockwise.
Remove the needle from the clamp.
Insert a new needle into the clamp with the flat side away from
you.
When inserting the needle into the clamp, push it up as far as
it will go and tighten the clamp screw firmly with the screwdriver.
* Check your needles frequently for barbed or blunted points.
Snags and runs in knits, fine silks and silk-like fabrics are
permanent and are almost always caused by a damaged
needle.
To check the needle
Place the flat side of the needle on something flat (needle
plate, glass etc.). The clearance between the needle and flat
surface should be consistent. Never use a bent or blunt needle.
7
Removing or Inserting the Bobbin Case
Open the hook cover.
Raise the needle by turning the handwheel toward you.
Take out the bobbin case by holding the latch.
When inserting the bobbin case, place the horn into the recess
of the hook race.
Hook cover
Latch
Horn
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2
1
Setting Spool Pins
The spool pins are used for holding the spool of thread in order
to feed thread to the machine.
To use, pull up the spool pin. Push down for storage.
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2
3
Needle thread
Hole
Tangle
Note : When using thread which has tendency to tangle
around spool pin, thread through the hole of spool
pin as shown.
The hole should face the thread spool.
1
1
2
3
8
Threading Bobbin Case
1 Place the bobbin into the bobbin case.
Make sure the thread unwinds in the direction of arrow.
2 Pull the thread into the bobbin case slot.
3 Draw the thread under the tension spring and into the
delivery eye.
* Leave about 10 cm (4") of free thread.
Winding the Bobbin
1 Draw the thread from spool.
Guide the thread around the bobbin winder thread guide.
2 Insert the thread through the hole in the bobbin from
the inside to the outside.
Put the bobbin on the bobbin winder spindle.
3 Push it to the right.
4 With the free end of the thread held in your hand,
depress the foot control.
Stop the machine when the bobbin has made a few
turns, and cut the thread close to the hole on the
bobbin.
5 Depress the foot control again.
When the bobbin is fully wound, stop the machine.
Return the bobbin winder spindle to its original position
by moving the spindle to the left, and cut the thread.
Note : Return the bobbin winder spindle when the machine
stops.
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5
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9
Threading the Machine
Raise the take–up lever to its highest position by turning the
handwheel toward you.
Raise the presser foot.
Place a spool on the spool pin as shown, with thread coming
from back of the spool.
1 Draw the thread into thread guide.
2 While holding the thread near spool, draw thread down
into the tension area and then around the check spring
holder.
3 Firmly draw the thread up and through the take–up
lever from right to left.
4 Then draw the thread down and slip it into the lower
thread guide.
5 Draw the thread down and slip it into needle bar thread
guide on the left.
6 Thread the needle eye from front to back.
Note : You may want to cut the end of thread with sharp
scissors for easier needle threading.
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* Refer to page 10 for the built-in needle threader.
10
Drawing Up Bobbin Thread
1 Raise the presser foot and hold the needle thread
lightly with your left hand.
2 Turn the handwheel one complete turn toward you
and raise the needle to its highest position.
Pull the needle thread to pick up a loop of the bobbin
thread.
3 Pull 15 cm (6") of both threads back and under the
presser foot.
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3
Needle Threader
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3 4
1 Raise the needle to its highest position.
Press down the needle threader knob as far as it will go.
The hook comes out through the needle eye from behind.
2 Pull the thread down around the thread guide then pass
it from the left and under the hook.
3 Release the knob slowly while holding the thread end
with your hand.
A loop of the thread is pulled up through the needle eye.
4 Remove the loop from the threader and pull out the
thread end from the needle eye.
Note: The needle threader can be used with a #11/75
to #16/100 needle or Janome Blue Tipped needle.
Thread size 50 to 100 would work well.
Caution: Be sure to raise the needle to its highest
position when using the needle threader,
otherwise the hook will miss the needle eye
and will be damaged.
11
Balancing Needle Thread Tension
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1 Correct tension
The thread tension is adjusted depending on the
sewing materials, layers of fabric and other sewing
conditions.
* The ideal straight stitch has threads looked between two
layers of fabric, as illustrated (magnifies to show detail).
* For an ideal zigzag stitch, the bobbin thread does not
show on the right side (top side) of the fabric, and the needle
thread shows slightly on the wrong side (bottom side) of
the fabric.
2
Needle thread tension is too tight
If the bobbin thread (bottom thread) appears on the
right side (top side) of the fabric, loosen the needle
thread tension by moving the dial to a lower number.
3
Needle thread tension is too loose
If the needle thread (top thread) appears on the wrong
side (bottom side) of the fabric, tighten the needle
thread tension by moving the dial to a higher number.
1
Needle thread (Top thread)
Bobbin thread (Bottom thread)
Right side (Top side) of fabric
Wrong side (Bottom side) of fabric
Thread tension dial
Setting mark
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12
Slide the stitch length control to set the setting mark at the
desired stitch length.
The higher the number, the longer the stitch
Setting mark
Pattern Selector Dial
Stitch Length Control
" " is the recommended setting for buttonhole stitching.
Adjust the stitch length control in the 0.5–4 range when
you sew the zigzag stitch.
Set the stitch length control at "S.S." to sew the stretch
stitch pattern.
If the stretch stitch pattern is uneven, slide the stitch length
control in the direction of "–" to compress it, or "+" to expand
it.
Stitch Width Control
Note : Raise the needle above the fabric, when you slide
the stitch width control.
1
1
1
S.S.
Raise the needle and presser foot. Turn the pattern
selector dial to set the setting mark at the symbol
corresponding to the desired pattern.
Setting mark
Slide the stitch width control to set the setting mark at
the desired stitch width.
The higher the number, the wider the stitch width
Setting mark
1
1
1
012345
When the stitch width is narrow, the right side of the pattern
is cut off.
(Example: Pattern E)
Width [5] Width [3]
(A)
(B)
(A) (B)
(A): Model 419S
(B): Model 423S
13
Reverse Stitch Button
As long as you keep the reverse stitch button depressed, the
machine sews backwards.
Dropping the Feed Dog
1 Remove the extension table.
Raise the presser foot.
2 To drop the feed dog, push the lever to the right .
3 To raise the feed dog, push the lever to the left.
* The feed dog must be up for normal sewing.
* The feed dog will return to the up position when the
machine starts running.
Drop feed lever
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14
Pattern selector: A
Presser foot: Zigzag foot
Thread tension: 2–6
Stitch length: 1.5–4
Stitch width: (0) or (5)
SECTION 3. BASIC SEWING
Straight Stitch Sewing
1 Raise the presser foot and position the fabric with its
edge lining up with a seam guide line on the needle
plate.
Lower the needle into the fabric.
Lower the presser foot and smooth the threads toward
the back. Depress the foot control.
Gently guide the fabric along the guide line letting the
fabric feed by itself.
2 For fastening the end of seams, press the reverse stitch
button and sew several reverse stitches.
Raise the presser foot and remove the fabric, drawing
the threads to the back.
3 Draw the threads up and into the thread cutter.
The threads are cut the proper length for starting the
next seam.
To Change Sewing Direction
Stop the machine and turn the handwheel toward you to bring
the needle down into the fabric.
Raise the presser foot.
Pivot the fabric around the needle to change sewing direction
as desired. Lower the presser foot and continue sewing.
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Seam Guides Line
The numbers on the needle plate indicate the distance
between the center needle position and the line.
The numbers in front are millimeters.
The numbers in back are fractions of an inch.
Variable Needle Position
012345
When the straight stitch (pattern A) is selected, you can move the
needle drop position between center and left by sliding the stitch
width control.
16
Zigzag Stitching
Simple zigzag stitching is widely used for overcasting, sewing
on buttons etc.
Pattern selector: C
Presser foot: Zigzag foot
Thread tension: 2–5
Stitch length: 0.5–4
Stitch width: 5
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4
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SECTION 4. UTILITY STITCHING
Overcasting
The zigzag stitch is used on the seam allowance to prevent
fabric from fraying at raw edges.
Pattern selector: C
Presser foot: Zigzag foot
Thread tension: 1–4
Stitch length: 1–2
Stitch width: 5
4
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Tricot Stitch
Pattern selector: D
Presser foot: Zigzag foot
Thread tension: 1–4
Stitch length: 0.5–1.5
Stitch width: 5
4
1
2
3
Knit Stitch
Pattern selector: G
Presser foot: Zigzag foot
Thread tension: 1–4
Stitch length: S.S.
Stitch width: 5
4
1
2
3
This stitch is used to finish the raw edge on synthetics and
other fabrics that tend to pucker.
Place your fabric to allow 1.6 cm (5/8") seam.
Trim the seam allowance after sewing.
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5
Note : Be careful not to cut the stitches.
This knit stitch is ideal for sewing swimwear and stretch velour
because it provides the greatest amount of elasticity and
strength.
Place your fabric to allow a 1.6 cm (5/8") seam.
Trim the seam allowance after sewing.
Note : Be careful not to cut the stitches.
It is also handy for darning and mending tears.
18
1
2
3
4
Straight Stretch Stitch
Pattern selector: A
Presser foot: Zigzag foot
Thread tension: 2–6
Stitch length: S.S.
Stitch width: (0) or (5)
4
1
2
3
The stitch is sewn with two stitches forward and one stitch
backward forming a seam that does not rip easily.
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5
19
Sewing on Buttons
1
2
3
Pattern selector: C
Presser foot: Zigzag foot
Thread tension: 1–3
Stitch length: Any
Stitch width: Adjust as necessary
Feed dog: Dropped
4
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3
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4
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6
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4 5
1 Push the drop feed lever to the right to lower the feed
dog.
Set the pattern selector dial at "C" and stitch width control
at 0.
Place the button under the foot. Unthread the needle and
turn the handwheel slowly to lower the needle into the left
hole on the button.
Align the right hole on the button with the slot of the foot
and lower the foot to hold the button in place.
2 Raise the needle and adjust the stitch width so that the
needle enters into the right hole on the button.
3 Rethread the needle and sew 10 stitches. A pin can
be placed on top of the foot to form a shank.
4 Raise the needle and set the stitch width control to 0
then sew a few stitches to lock the seam.
5 Raise the foot and trim the excess thread.
Note: When button sewing is finished, raise the feed dog.
20
Buttonhole
Pattern selector:
Presser foot: Automatic buttonhole foot
Thread tension: 1–5
Stitch length: (0.5–1)
Stitch width: 5
4
1
2
3
4
1
2
3
5
5
1
2
3
4
5
6
1 Turn the handwheel toward you to raise the needle to
its highest position.
Raise the presser foot lifter.
2 Select the pattern "BH" by turning the pattern selector
dial.
If the BH pattern is already selected, reset the dial once
according to the procedure in 12 .
3 Attach the automatic buttonhole foot.
4 Pull the button holder to the back, and place the button
in it. Push back the button holder toward you as far as
it will go.
5 Pull the buttonhole lever downward as far as it will go.
Buttonhole lever
6 Insert fabric under the foot.
Turn the handwheel slowly towards you with your right
hand until the needle goes down and continue turning
handwheel until the take-up lever is at its highest position.
7 Remove the fabric to the left to draw both threads to
the left.
8 Insert the garment under the foot, and lower the needle
at the starting point.
Then lower the automatic buttonhole foot.
Note : Make sure there is no gap between the slider and the
spring holder. If there is a gap, the length of the rows
will be different, as shown.
Starting point
Slider
There should be no gap
Spring holder
Difference
* The size of buttonhole is automatically set by placing
the button in the automatic buttonhole foot.
* The button holder of the foot takes a button size up to
2.5 cm (1") in diameter.
* Make a test buttonhole on a sample duplicating the
fabric, interfacing and seams of the actual garment.
* Place the button on the fabric sample and mark the
top and bottom to determine the position of buttonhole.
* Use interfacing on stretch fabrics.
1 2 3
4
5
6 78
1
2
3
4
5
6
21
01234S.S.
To adjust buttonhole stitch density.
Set the stitch length control between 0.5 and 1.0 to adjust
the buttonhole stitch density.
9 Sew slowly and stop the machine when a buttonhole is
completed.
* The machine sews the front bartack and left row first,
then the back bartack and right row.
10 Cut both needle and bobbin threads leaving about 10 cm
(4") thread ends.
Draw the needle thread to wrong side of fabric by pulling
the bobbin thread.
Then, knot the threads.
11 Insert a pin inside the bartack.
Then cut the opening with seam ripper.
Take care not to cut the stitches.
12 To repeat buttonhole sewing, turn the stitch selector to
, then back to again, as shown.
Now, simply step on the foot control to sew an identical
buttonhole.
13 When buttonhole sewing is finished, push the buttonhole
lever upward as far as it will go.
9
10 11
12
13
22
1 Use the same procedure as automatic buttonhole.
* Set the stitch width to match with the thickness of the
cord used.
With the buttonhole foot raised, hook the filler cord on
the spur at the back of the buttonhole foot.
Bring the ends toward you under the buttonhole foot,
clearing the front end.
Hook the filler cord into the forks on the front of the
automatic buttonhole foot to hold them tight.
Lower the needle into the garment where the buttonhole
will start and lower the foot.
Spur
2 Depress the foot control gently and sew the buttonhole.
Each side of the buttonhole and the bartacks will be
sewn over the cord.
Remove the fabric from the machine and cut the sewing
threads only.
3 Pull the left end of the filler cord to tighten it.
Thread the end through a darning needle, draw to the
wrong side of the fabric and cut.
* To cut the buttonhole opening, refer to the Instructions on
page 21.
1
1
1
2
3
Corded Buttonhole
Pattern selector:
Presser foot: Automatic buttonhole foot
Thread tension: 1–5
Stitch length: (0.5–1)
Stitch width: 5
4
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2
3
4
1
2
3
5
5
23
Zipper Application
Pin or baste zipper tape to fabric and place it under the foot.
Smooth the threads toward the back and lower the foot.
To sew the left side of the zipper, guide the zipper teeth along
the edge of the foot and stitch through the garment and zipper
tape.
Turn the fabric and sew the other side of the zipper in the
same way as you did the left side.
1
2
3
4
Pattern selector: A
Presser foot: Zipper foot
Thread tension: 3 – 6
Stitch length: 1.5 – 4
Stitch width: (5)
4
1
2
3
5
5
24
Blind Stitch Hemming
1
2
4
1
2
4
3
Pattern selector: E or F
Presser foot: Zigzag foot
Thread tension: 2–4
Stitch length: 1–3
Stitch width: 5
Hem guide
4
1
2
3
3
2
1
5
2
1
[A] [B]
3
4
5
1 Fold up the hem and fold it back to from a 0.4 to 0.7cm
(1/4") allowance as illustrated.
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3
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5
Wrong side of the fabric
0.4 to 0.7 cm (1/4")
2 Lower the presser foot, then loosen the foot holder
screw to place the hem guide between the screw and
the shank of foot holder.
Tighten the screw making sure the wall of hem guide
is placed between the toes of the presser foot.
[A] Heavy weight fabrics (The raw edge should be
overcast.)
[B] Fine or medium weight fabrics
3 Raise the presser foot and place the fabric under the
foot so that the folded edge rests against the wall of
the hem guide.
Lower the foot, then stitch slowly for better control so
that the needle just pierces the folded edge when it
swings to the extreme left side.
Sew guiding the folded edge along the wall of the hem
guide.
Screw
Hem guide
4 Open the fold flat.
Right side of the fabric
* If the needle drops far left, the stitches will show on the
right side of the fabric.
5
6
6
25
Rolled Hem
Pattern selector: A
Presser foot: Hemmer foot
Thread tension: 2–6
Stitch length: 1.5–4
Stitch width: (5)
4
1
2
3
5
1 Make a double 0.25 cm (1/8") fold approximately
8 cm (3") in length.
0.25 cm (1/8")
8 cm (3")
2 Lower the needle into the fabric at the point where
sewing is to begin, then lower the hemmer foot.
Sew 3 or 4 stitches while pulling the needle and bobbin
threads.
3 Lower the needle into the fabric and lift the hemmer
foot. Insert the folded portion of the fabric into the curl
of the hemmer foot.
4 Lower the hemmer foot, then sew by lifting up the edge
of the fabric to keep it feeding into the curl smoothly
and evenly.
5 Trim about 0.7 cm (1/4") from corners as illustrated,
to reduce bulk.
0.7cm (1/4")
1
2
3
4
5
1
2
3
4
5
1
2
3
1
2
3
3
26
Shell Tuck
Pattern selector: G
Presser foot: Zigzag foot
Thread tension: 6–8
Stitch length: 2–3
Stitch width: 5
4
1
2
3
SECTION 5. DECORATIVE STITCHING
4
1
2
3
4
1
2
3
Stretch Stitch Patterns
Pattern selector: A–J (Model 419S)
A–L (Model 423S)
Presser foot: Zigzag foot
Thread tension: 1–4
Stitch length: S.S.
Stitch width: 5
4
1
2
3
Fold the fablic in bias.
Place the folded edge along the slot of foot.
The needle should fall off the edge of the fabric on the
right forming tucks.
If forward and reverse feeds become unbalanced due to
the type of fabric, adjust the balance by slide the stitch
length control as follows:
If patterns are compressed, slide the stitch length control
toward " + ".
If patterns are drawn, slide the stitch length control toward
" – ".
(See page 12 )
5
5
5
5
27
Smocking
Pattern selector: D
Presser foot: Zigzag foot
Thread tension: 1–4
Stitch length: S.S.
Stitch width: 5
4
1
2
3
With the stitch length at "4", sew straight stitching lines 1 cm
(3/8") apart, across the area to be smocked.
Note : Loosen the needle thread tension to make gathering
easier.
Knot the threads along one edge. Pull the bobbin threads and
distribute the gathers evenly.
Secure the threads at the other end.
Sew the decorative stitch pattern between the gathering
stitches.
Pull out the gathering stitches.
4
1 2
3
Box Stitching
Pattern selector: H
Presser foot: Zigzag foot
Thread tension: 1–4
Stitch length: 0.5–2
Stitch width: 5
4
1
2
3
4
1
2
3
Use this stitch to join heavy weight fabrics.
Overlap two raw edges together and use this stitch to join
them.
1 cm (3/8")
5
5
5
1
1
5
28
Applique
Pattern selector: C
Presser foot: Zigzag foot
Thread tension: 1–4
Stitch length: 0.5–1
Stitch width: 5
Presser dial: 2
4
1
2
3
5
2
3
Baste (or fuse with iron-on fabric joiner) applique pieces
on the fabric. Stitch around the applique making sure
the needle falls along the outer edge of the applique.
When sewing corners, lower the needle down into the
fabric. Raise the presser foot and pivot fabric to the right
or left.
1
4
5
Decorative Satin Stitch Patterns
Pattern selector: I–J (Model 419S)
I–L (Model 423S)
Presser foot: Zigzag foot
Thread tension: 2–5
Stitch length: 0.5–1
Stitch width: 3–5
4
1
2
3
5
Satin stitches are used for decorative stitches on blankets,
linens, tableclothes and napkins.
It is also especially attractive in applique.
Note: Use tear-away stabilizer under fabric.
Sew a row of stitches and adjust the thread tension so the
needle thread appears on the reverse side of the fabric.
Test the stitch on a sample of the actual fabric first.
1
2
3
4
5
0
1
2
3
6
6
29
Cleaning the Feed Dog
Remove the needle and the presser foot.
Remove the needle plate set screw and remove the needle
plate.
With a brush, clean out dust and lint clogging on the feed dog
teeth.
Reset the needle plate.
Note : Turn off the power switch and/or unplug the machine
before cleaning the feed dog.
Dismantling and Assembling
Hook Race Unit
Note : Turn off the power switch and/or unplug the machine.
To dismantle hook race unit:
Raise the needle to its highest position and open the hook cover.
Open the hinged latch of bobbin case and take it out of the
machine.
Open the hook race ring holders and remove the hook race ring.
Remove the hook.
* Clean the hook race with a brush and a soft dry cloth.
Bobbin case
Hook race ring holder
Hook race ring
Hook
Hook race
1
2
3
4
5
To assemble hook race unit:
Hold the hook by the center pin and fit it carefully back into the
hook race, forming a perfect circle with the shuttle driver.
Attach the hook race ring making sure the bottom pin fits into the
notch.
Lock the hook race ring by turning the holders back into position.
Insert the bobbin case.
Pin
Notch
6
7
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
SECTION 6. CARE OF YOUR MACHINE
30
Oiling the Machine
Note:Turn off the power switch when oiling the machine.
Oil the points as shown at least once a year.
Use good quality sewing machine oil.
One or two drops of oil is sufficient.
Wipe off excess oil, otherwise it may stain fabric.
If machine has not been used for an extended time, oil it
before sewing.
Oiling behind the face plate
Remove the cap,screw and face plate.
Oil the points indicated in the illustration.
Cap
Screw
Face plate
Oiling the shuttle hook area
Open the hook cover.
Oil the point indicated in the illustration.
Hook cover
1
2
3
4
1
2
3
4
Sewing Light
The sewing light is located behind the face plate.
To change the bulb, take the face plate off the sewing machine
by removing the setscrew.
* Unplug the power supply before changing the bulb.
* Do not dismantle the machine other than explained in this
manual.
(A) To remove ........ Turn to the left.
To replace ........ Turn to the right.
(B) To remove ........ Push and twist to the left.
To replace ........ Push and twist to the right.
(A)
(B)
Warning : The bulb could be HOT. Protect your fingers when
handling it.
31
See Page 9
See Page 11
See Page 6
See Page 6
See Page 14
See Page 6
See Page 8
Clean the bobbin case.
Exchange bobbin.
See Page 6
See Page 6
See Page 6
See Page 11
See Page 14
See Page 6
See Page 12
See Page 6
See Page 6
See Page 6
See Page 6
See Page 9
See Page 11
See Page 9
See Page 6
Make the
stitches denser.
See Page 11
See Page 6
See Page 29
Make the
stitches coarser.
See Page 4
See Page 29
See page 29
See Page 29
1. The needle thread is not threaded properly.
2. The needle thread tension is too tight.
3. The needle is bent or blunt.
4. The needle is incorrectly inserted.
5. The fabric is not being drawn to the back when sewing is finished.
6. The thread is either too heavy or too fine for the needle.
1. The bobbin thread is not threaded properly in the bobbin case.
2. Lint has collected in the bobbin case.
3. The bobbin is damaged and doesn't turn smoothly.
1. The needle is incorrectly inserted.
2. The needle is bent or blunt.
3. The needle clamp screw is loose.
4. The tension of the needle thread is too tight.
5. The fabric is not drawn to the back when sewing is finished.
6. The needle is too fine for the fabric being sewn.
7. The pattern selector dial had been turned while the needle was
in the material.
1. The needle is incorrectly inserted.
2. The needle is bent or blunt.
3. The needle and/or threads are not suitable for the work being
sewn.
4. A BLUE TIPPED needle is not being used for sewing stretch, very
fine fabrics and synthetics.
5. The needle thread is not threaded properly.
1. The needle thread tension is too tight.
2. The machine is not threaded correctly.
3. The needle is too heavy for the fabric being sewn.
4. The stitches are too coarse for the fabric being sewn.
* When sewing extremely light weight materials, place a sheet
of paper underneath the fabric.
1. The needle thread tension is too loose.
2. The needle is either too heavy or too fine for the thread.
1. The feed dog is packed with lint.
2. The stitches are too fine.
1. The machine is not plugged in.
2. Thread is caught in the hook race.
1. Threads have been caught in hook mechanism.
2. The feed dog is packed with lint.
Troubleshooting
Condition
The needle thread
breaks.
The bobbin thread
breaks.
The needle breaks.
Skipped stitches
Seam puckering
Stitches form loops
below the work
The cloth is not
feeding smoothly.
The machine does not
work.
The machine does not
run smoothly and is
noisy.
Reference
Cause
Printed in Taiwan
303-800-051
… 33

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