610295

Husqvarna Viking 7 Handleiding

7
Verklein
Vergroot
Pagina terug
1/26
Pagina verder
OPERATING
MANUAL
I
,
a
4
1a
I
r
S
15r3
S
11770
5-15555
3046
s-15406
S-15415
a
This
manual
has
been
prepared
to
help
you
learn
to
use
your
new
Husqvarna
in
such
a
way
that
you
will
get
the
very
best
out
of
it
—
to
enable
you
take
full
advantage
of
all
the
machine’s
special
features
which
put
skill
into
i’onr
fingers
and
make
sewing
fun.
Maybe
you
are
thoroughli’
accustomed
to
sewing
by
machine,
and
feel
you
can
skip
reading
these
instructions.
Our
advice
is:
Don’t.
We
can
say
with
fair
certainty
that
you
will
find
quite
a
number
of
ideas
here
that
you
hadn’t
thought
of
before,
as
well
as
simple
sewing
tricks
that
ou
had
forgotten.
Have
the
machine
in
front
of
you
as
you
read,
and
try
Out
the
various
operations.
Even
if
von
have
had
some
previous
instruction
in
the
use
of
our
Husqvarna,
this
is
probably
the
first
time
you
have
been
alone
with
it
—
so
here
is
a
splendid
opportunity
to
get
acquainted.
You’ll
find
it
well
worth
while,
too.
Even
after
ion
have
acquired
the
general
technique
of
sewing
on
the
Husqvarna,
you
will
probably
want
to
consult
the
manual
from
time
to
time
in
regard
to
detailsco
keep
this
booklet
always
at
hand.
Good
luck
—
and
good
sewing
with
your
Husqvarna!
HUSQVARNA
VAPENFABRIKS
AKTIEBOLAG
Needle
and
thread
selector
l)c
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get
Needle
and
Thread
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tins
pads.
sill
help
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It
is
the
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tied
tur
tine
Flusqi
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number,
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ticking,
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ir
suds
I’mir,
us
How
to
insert
a
needle
Removing
the
bobbin
case
from
the
shuttle
Loosen
the
needle
screw
(A,
Fig.
3).
Insert
the
needle
in
the
clamp
(B)
and
push
it
up
as
far
as
it
will
go.
See
that
the
flat
side
of
the
needle
is
turned
away
from
you
and
faces
toward
rear
of
ma
chine.
Tighten
the
screw
securely,
and
check
again
to
make
sure
that
the
needle
is
correctly
inserted.
The
long
groove
over
the
needle’s
eye
should
be
facing
you.
Turn
the
hand
wheel
(15,
Fig.
1)
toward
you
until
the
needle
is
in
its
highest
position.
Take
hold
of
the
bobbin
case
with
the
thumb
and
forefinger
(Fig.
4),
so
that
the
latch
(A,
Fig.
5)
is
depressed,
and
lift
the
case
out.
As
long
as
the
latch
is
depressed.
the
bobbin
is
held
in
its
ease.
To
remove
the
bobbin,
release
the
latch
and
turn
the
case
down
wards.
The
bobbin
then
falls
out.
j•
\y
\
A
I
Fig.
3.
Fig.
4.
Fig.
5.
3
A
F
Bobbin
winding
is
simple
Place
a
spool
of
thread
on
the
spooi
pin
nearest
the
haridwheel.
Run
the
thread
through
the
thread
guide
(A.
Fig.
6)
and
down
between
the
tension
discs
(B,
Fig.
6).
Push
the
bobbin
onto
the
winder
spindle
(C,
Fig.
6)
which
is
pressed
in
at
the
same
time,
and
then
the
sewing
mechanism
is
automatically
disengaged.
Wind
the
thread
two
or
three
times
around
the
bobbin
clockwise
and
start
the
bobbin
winder
by
pressing
the
foot
pedal
and
wind
ss
ith
a
moderate
speed.
Stop
winding
when
the
bobbin
is
filled
to
about
1;
12
in.
(2
mm)
from
the
rim.
Stop
the
machine
and
pull
the
bobbin
oft
the
spindle,
and
the
sewing
mechanism
auto
matically
engages
again.
Fig.
6.
4
Threading
the
bobbin
case
Hold
the
bobbin
case
in
your
left
hand,
with
the
slot
in
the
edge
upwards
or
facing
you
(Fig.
7).
Take
the
bobbin
in
your
right
hand,
so
that
the
thread
end
leads
away
from
you,
and
drop
it
into
the
case.
Then,
still
with
your
right
hand,
draw
the
thread
into
the
slot
in
the
edge
of
the
case
(Fig.
8).
Now
lead
the
thread
under
the
tension
spring
and
let
it
come
out
at
the
notch
in
the
end
of
the
spring
(Fig.
9).
Pull
the
thread
out
a
few
inches.
and
cheek
to
see
that
the
bobbin
rotates
clockwise
in
the
ease.
Lower
thread
tension
The
machine
comes
from
the
factory
with
the
lower
thread
tension
adjusted
for
normal
use.
Do
not
alter
the
tension
unless
it
is
absolutely
necessary
—
as,
for
example,
when
doing
special
jobs,
such
as
sewing
buttonholes,
eyelets,
etc.
To
ad
just
the
lower
thread
tension,
use
the
little
screwdriver
which
you
will
find
in
the
attachment
box.
Take
out
the
bobbin
case
and
turn
the
spring
screw
(Fig.
10)
to
the
right
to
increase
the
tension,
or
to
the
left
to
decrease
it.
Do
not
turn
the
spring
screw
more
than
1i8
of
a
turn
without
testing
to
see
if
the
adjustment
is
sufficient.
Fig.
8.
Fig.
10.
Fig.
7.
Fig.
9.
5
Inserting
the
bobbin
case
Turn
the
hand
wheel
(15,
Fig.
1
to
s
ard
von
until
the
needJe
is
in
its
highest
poation.
Raise
the
sewing
machine
head
and
pick
up
the
bobbin
ease
with
the
thumb
and
forefinger,
gripping
the
latch
/k.
Pig.
5)
firmly
so
the
bobbin
doe.s
not
fall
out.
Push
the
bobbin
case
into
the
centre
post
of
the
shuttle
(A,
Fig.
11),
with
its
projection
upwards
so
as
to
fit
the
notch
B)
in
the
shuttle
race.
Press
the
case
firmly
into
place.
Leae
the
thread
end
hanging
down
trum
tli
bobbin
case.
Upper
thread:
This
is
the
way
to
thread
it
Bring
the
thread
take-up
lever
(13,
Fig.
12(
to
its
highest
position
by
turning
the
hand
wheel
toward
you.
Put
a
spooi
of
thread
on
one
of
the
spool
pins
(26,
Fig.
Pass
thread
through
the
thread
guides
(14,
Fig.
12),
then
round
from
right
to
left
between
the
tension
discs
çID),
over
the
crotch
of
the
thread
take-up
spring
(12),
under
the
slack
thread
regulator
(9)
and
up
through
one
or
the
eyes
in
the
thread
take-up
lever
(3).
From
the
take-
up
lever
take
the
thread
down
through
thread
guide
(8)
and
the
guide
on
the
needle
clamp
(4)
and
thread
it
through
the
needle
from
the
front,
pulling
out
3
or
4
usehes
behind.
When
once
the
machine
is
threaded,
be
careful
not
to
run
it
unless
there
is
some
fabric
between
the
presser
foot
and
the
t?,roat
plate.
14—
—---.
Fig.
11.
Fig.
12.
/
/
6
How
to
get
the
right
thread
tension
The
tension
of
the
upper
thread
is
regulated
by
the
pressure
of
the
tension
discs
(10,
Fig.
12)
against
each
other.
This
pres
sure
is
adjusted
by
means of
a
calibrated
control,
marked
with
rings
and
figures
(11,
Fig.
12).
When
three
rings
are
visible,
there
is
a
light
tension
on
the
upper
thread;
two
rings
=
me
hum:
one
ring
tight
tension.
Numbers
indicate
the
mid
point
of
each
degree
of
tension.
Correct
tension
\Vhen
the
tension
of
the
up
per
and
lower
threads
is
cor
rectly
regulated,
the
stitches
look
alike
on
both
sides
of
the
material.
Upper
thread
tension
to
tight
Upper
thread
is
stretched
out
along
the
top
of
the
material,
while
the
lower
thread
is
pul
led
up
in
small
loops.
(This
will
also
happen
if
the
tension
of
the
lower
thread
is
too
light,
but
always
try
to
correct
by
adjusting
the
upper
thread
ten
sion.)
Tension
of
upper
thread
too
light
Lower
thread
is
stretched
along
the
underside
of
the
ma
terial.
and
the
upper
thread
pulled
down
in
loops.
(Again,
this
‘a
ill
happen
with
too
tight
a
tension
on
the
lower
thread,
but
before
adjusting
the
lower
thread
tension,
try
adjusting
the
tension
of
the
upper
thread.)
Bringing
up
the
lower
thread
After
the
upper
thread
has
been
threaded
through
the
needle,
hold
the
end
loosely
in
your
left
hand,
and
with
your
right
hand
turn
the
balance
wheel
slow
lv
toward
you
so
that
the
needle
goes
down
,snd
comes
up
again
to
its
highest
position.
Now
pull
the
up
per
thread,
and
the
lower
thread
will
come
up
through
the
hole
in
the
throat
plate
(Fig.
13).
The
feed
dog
When
darning
and
embroidering,
you
want
the
fabric
to
be
free
so
you
can
move
it
by
hand
in
any
desired
direction.
This
is
made
possible
by
lowering
the
feed
dog
(22,
Fig.
1).
To
lower
the
feed
dog,
turn
the
knob
(21,
Fig.
1)
as
far
to
the
left
as
it
will
go
—
so
the
mark
on
it
points
downwards.
When
you
want
the
feed
mechanism
to
function
again,
simply
turn
the
feed-drop
knob
to
the
right
so
that
the
mark
comes
U
rrnost.
Fig.
13.
7
Now
we
are
ready
\\ith
its
at—proof
slittle.
the
Nusqs
ama
pro
an
i\ceflettu
straiiht
stitch,
This
sit
Ic
is
desii
tied
so
as
to
release
eaetiv
the
same
lenith
of
thread
at
each
resolution
-
no
matter
tow
fast
the
machine
is
run.
Now,
if
von
has
e
selected
the
rtiht
needle
and
thread
.and
have
ci
‘-eked
the
thread
tension,
we
are
reads
to
start
sewin
Place
tIle
fabric
under
the
presser
foot
and
loner
tte
presser
bar.
Place
the
nutorfoot
control
for
Createst
comfort
and
start
the
machine
by
(Ic—
pressin
it
centl
v.
Remember,
von
never
need
to
help
the
machine
et
started
or
slow
it
down
he
tslanlpulatinC
the
hind
wheel,
when
sewitti
on
a
1Iusijvarlta.
‘flte
foot
cotitrol
ii.
l4
ensures
smooth
starts
and
accurate
stoppine
*
thus
leavin
b0
lt
Itauds
free
for
sewing.
Coil
St,ti
I
the
scat?!
tit
the
J.ihrte,
not
oii
tsO/e.
\\
hen
von
have
iot
the
seam
started,
the
machine
specs]
can
he
increased
as
desired.
Retilate
the
sew
iiti
speed
by
means
of
the
foot
eontrc
otilt
and
nd
er
try
to
alter
the
rare
of
feed
hv
nianipulatin
the
fabric.
If
son
try
to
ptiii
tlte
fabric
forward,
or
lulls1
it
hack,
you
may
easily
bend
or
break
a
teed—
Ic
,atid
soil
m,tv
even
dantae
otlter
ntovittit
parts
of
tltc
tttachitte.
If
you
ha
ye
eot
a
treadle
machine,
learn
hose
to
operate
the
treadle
properly
before
you
start
se
ll
lt
in
earnest.
Place
your
feet
otte
sliihtiv
in
front
of
the
other.
Practice
w
itl
die
hand
wheel
shisettated
until
you
cats
stop
or
start
the
uacltine
in
any
positioti.
lurit
the
lv
heel
backwards
and
treadle
utaitortstly,
to
sew!
Turning
a
corner
Fig.
14.
To
turn
a
corner,
stop
the
machine
ith
the
needle
in
the
fabric,
raise
the
presser
foot
and
rotate
the
fabric
around
the
needle
until
it
is
in
position
for
the
new
seam.
Then
loss
er
the
presser
toot
and
continue
sewing.
Setting
the
stitch
length
Can
obtain
different
lengths
of
stitch
by
altering
the
setting
of
the
stitch
length
control
(Fig.
15).
The
pointer
in
dicates
the
length
of
stitch
on
the
dial
—
the
further
down
the
lever
is
pushed,
the
longer
will
be
the
stitch.
\Vhen
you
have
obtained
the
right
setting,
lock
the
lever
at
that
point
by
screwing
the
knob
clock
n
ise
until
you
feel
slight
resistance.
Reverse
stitching,
locking
seams
When
the
stitch
length
control
is
set
below
3,
the
machine
sews
forward.
As
soon
as
you
move
the
lever
up
past
3,
it
starts
sewing
backwards,
moving
the
fab
ric
toward
you
instead
of
away
from
you.
Simple,
instantaneous
change
from
forward
to
reverse
stitching,
or
vice
versa,
is
especially
useful
in
locking
scams.
Since
the
knob
locks
the
lever
at
the
desired
stitch
length,
you
get
the
same
length
of
stitch
in
each
direction.
Finishing
off
After
stopping
the
machine,
turn
the
hand
wheel
toward
you
until
the
needle
is
in
its
highest
position.
Raise
the
presser
toot
lifter
(24,
Fig.
2)
and
draw
the
work
out
backwards
—
away
from
you.
Pull
out
the
thread
4-5
inches,
and
cut
them
off
against
the
thread
cutter
at
the
back
of
the
presser
bar
(25,
Fig.
2).
9
Find
if
difficult
to
sew
straight?
For
quilting
and
marking,
use
the
edge
guide
a
attach
the
edge
guide
Fig.
16)
by
sliding
t
from
left
to
rUht
into
the
hole
in
the
presser
bar.
Set
it
at
the
desired
distance
from
the
needle
and
fi
it
there
by
screw
ing
the
attachment
screw
mto
the
hole
in
the
back
of
the
presser
bar.
Use
markings
to
guide
you
when
sewing
the
first
seam.
To
sew
parallel
rows
ot
stitching,
move
the
work
to
the
rj.ht
so
that
the
row
al
ready
sewn
comes
under
the
guide.
1ou
will
find
quilting,
as
well
as
marking,
quite
easy
when
you
use
this
guide.
Even
those
who
are
used
to
se
wing
on
a
machine
sometimes
have
difficulty
in
running
a
straight
scam.
This
difficulty
can
be
over
come
simple
and
easily,
by
lear
inng
to
use
the
presser
toot
as
a
uid.
—
or
using
the
practical
Lde
guide
Special
attachment
S-1342D.
Fig.
16.
j
10
Tucks
and
stitched
edges
The
important
thing
when
sewing
tucks
or
stitching
edges
is
that
the
tucks
be
of
even
depth
all
along
their
length,
and
that
the
stitching
is
parallel
to
the
dge
of
the
fabric.
These
are
instances
where
you
can
make
use
of
the
presser
foot
or
the
edge
guide.
Mark
the
distance
between
the
folds
of
the
tuck
by
machine
stitching
without
thread,
then
fold
the
cloth
along
the
markings.
Guide
the
fol
ded
edge
by
the
presser
foot
or
the
guide
attachment.
Zipper
in
centre
of
opening
Baste
together
the
opening
with
long
stitches
and
the
upper
thread
lightly
ten
sioned.
Leave
about
in.
(20
mm)
open
at
the
end,
Force
the
seam
apart
and
haste
in
the
zipper
by
hand
on
the
un
derside.
Change
to
the
special
presser
foot
for
attaching
zip
fasteners
(Fig.
17)
(Special
attachment
5-15395).
Open
the
zipper
about
3/4
in.
(20
mm)
and
start
stitching
down
the
left
side
of
the
opening
(with
the
work
right
side
outL
Stitch
a
bit,
then
leaving
the
needle
in
the
fabric,
raise
the
presser
foot.
Close
the
zipper
and
continue
stitching
round
it.
Finish
off
by
opening
the
fastener
dightly
as
before.
Remove
the
basting.
Zipper
under
the
fly
Baste
the
fly
along
the
edge
with
long
stitches
and
lightly
tensioned
upper
thread.
Then
make
a
fold
in
the
lower
piece
of
cloth,
about
/s
in.
(2
mm)
from
the
basting
stitches,
and
stitch
the
zipper
to
it,
beginning
at
the
bottom
and
running
the
zipper
foot
closely
along
its
right
side.
Open
the
zipper
as
above
to
tinish
off.
Turn
the
garment
around,
and
with
the
right
side
of
the
cloth
still
up
permost,
stitch
the
other
side
of
the
zipper
from
the
top
downwards,
F
It’s
easier
than
you
would
think
to
sew
on
a
zipper
Fig.
17.
11
the
Husqvarna
to
do
gathering
in
several
ways.
Simple
gathering
Use
the
presser
foot,
Stitches
should
be
rather
long
and
the
upper
thread
tension
sufticientiv
light
to
enable
the
lower
thread
to
be
pulled.
Sew
as
usuai,
but
preterably
stitch
two
rows,
using
the
presser
foot
as
a
guide.
Instructions
on
page
IC
tell
‘coo
how
to
do
this.
\Vhen
both
rows
ha’ce
been
stitched,
pull
the
lower
thread
so
,is
to
form
gathers
in
th
fabric
(Fig.
I8.
Gathering
in
several
rows
This
is
wherc
the
edge
guide
comes
in
usetul.
Set
it
so
that
you
guide
by
the
adjacent
rosy
to
the
one
you
are
sritchin.
Gathering
with
elastic
thread
Br
using
Lastc\
thread
you
can
make
elastic
gathers.
\Vind
the
elastic
rhrcad
b’
haimd
on
the
bobbin,
and
use
ordinary
thread
for
time
upper
thread.
This
kind
of
gathering
is
especially
suitable
for
under
is
car,
cm
Idren’s
clothes,
beachsvcar,
etc.
Gathering
You
can
use
Fig.
18.
U
Making
narrow
hems
Felled
seams
As
special
attachments
are
hemmer
feet
for
three
widths
of
hem.
To
sew
the
hem
shown
below,
use
hemmer
toot
No.
3035
(Fig.
19).
Remove
the
presser
foot
and
attach
the
hemmer.
Clip
off
in.
(3
mm)
or
so
from
the
corner
of
the
tabric
where
the
hem
starts,
and
told
over
the
edge
for
about
in.
(13
mm)
to
a
depth
suited
to
the
cloth
and
the
hemmer
foot.
Sew
a
single
stitch
where
the
hem
starts.
Then
holding
the
threads
firmly
with
your
right
hand,
lift
the
hemmer
foot
slightly
in
order
to
get
the
folded
edge
into
the
scroll
more
easily.
Once
started,
the
hem
mer
tolds
the
fabric
automatically
—
you
just
have
to
bear
in
mind
not
to
crowd
too
much
material
in
to
the
scroll,
To
produce
an
extra-narrow
hem,
use
hemmer
toot
No.
3002
and
sew
as
abos
e.
The
hemmer
feet
can
also
be
used
for
felling.
Place
the
pieces
of
cloth
one
of
top
of
the
other
with
the
edge
of
the
bottom
piece
sticking
out
slightly
—
just
enough
to
enable
the
lower
edge
to
be
felled
easily
with
out
folding.
When
stitching
the
two
pieces
together,
see
that
their
edges
are
the
cime
distance
apart
all
the
way
(fig.
20).
After
sewing
together,
spread
out
the
sork
so
that
the
hem
stands
up.
Then
insert
the
hem
in
the
hem
mer
and
run
the
second
‘earn
(Fig.
21.
Basting
and
marking
(tailor
tacks>
Avoid
unnecessary
hand
work
by
using
the
machine
as
much
as
possible.
You
ha
e
the
machine
out
anyway,
so
you
may
as
well
take
advantage
of
it.
Basting
is
done
‘.s
ith
longest
titches
and
light
upper
thread
tension
so
that
the
threads
can
easily
be
pulled
out.
To
mark
by
machine,
lower
the
feed
dog
so
you
can
move
the
work
about
in
any
direction
you
like.
Light
tension
of
the
thread.
Fig.
20.
Fig.
19.
Fig.
21.
13
Marking
‘hen
marking
by
machine
two
me
thods
are
a
ailable.
i.
it.,
ordinary
wit
ching
using
the
presser
foot
or
without
the
presser
foot
and
with
the
feed
dog
disenitaged.
In
the
latter
case
an
embro
dery
frame
is
required.
if
the
latter
method
is
used
two
forms
of
marking
can
he
carried
out,
“quick-marking”
or
satin
or
flat
stitch.
Marking
with
ordinary
stitching:
Or
dinary
marking
wool
can
be
used
for
the
upper
thread
but
when
sewing
with
pearl
thread
or
button
hole
silk
the
thicker
thread
must
be
used
as
the
lower
thread.
\Vhen
using
marking
wool
as
the
upper
thread
the
tension
must
be
decreased
—
the
looser
the
thread
the
fuller
the
stitch.
Mercerized
thread
or
ordinary
sewing
14
thread
Lan
be
used
as
the
lower
thread.
c
hange
over
to
very
soarse
needle
—
No,
110
or
120
is
suitable
if
sewing
with
thread
No.
14
or
12.
Select
the
stitch
lLngth
most
suitable
for
the
monogram.
Draw
in
the
pattern
and
stttch
around
the
outline.
If
a
cry
full
seam
is
requi
red
make
two outline
stitches
close
to
ich
other.
The
loops
can
he
filled
in
v:ith
tight
row
s
of
stitches
if
required.
If
a
coarse
lower
thread
is
used,
e.
.
pearl
wool,
the
tension
pring
on
the
bobbin
case
must
he
loosened
considerab
lv
but
take
care
not
to
damage
ir.
Mer
cerised
thread
is
generally
the
most
sui
table.
As
the
low
er
thread
is
the
one
visible,
the
monogram
niust
be
drawn
in
rcverce,
either
on
the
material
or
on
a
paper
pattern.
“Quick-marking”
can
be
used
for
mo
nograms
with
filed
letters,
for
round
out
lines
or
for
“written”
names.
Use
coloured
darning
thread
or
mer
cerised
thread
for
both
upper
and lower
thread,
Both
are
to
be
equally
tensioned
—
not
too
hard.
Remove
the
presser
foot
and
disengage
the
feed
dog.
Stitch
around
the
outlines
and
then
fill
with
tight
rows
of
stitches
or
“w
rite”
the
name
with
short
stitches
in
one
or
two
lines
of
stitches.
Fig.
22.
Fig.
23.
Embroidery
with
solid
Appliqué
Piping
and
braiding
raised
stitching
Remove
the
presser
foot
and
lower
the
feed
dog.
Thread
the
machine
with
an
embroidery
thread
intended
for
sewing
machines
silk
or
mercerized
thread).
Stretch
the
fabric
with
the
outline
design
on
an
embroidery
hoop,
First
sew
a
stitch
or
two
by
turning
the
hand
wheel
to
bring
up
the
lower
thread;
then
holding
both
the
upper
and
lower
threads
lock
them
by
again
sewing
a
couple
of
stitches.
Run
around
the
contours
of
the
design
with
tine
stitches
(Fig.
24)
and
start
filling
in
the
design
with
rows
of
stitches
by
gui
ding
the
hoop
siowly
backwards
and
for
wards
under
the
needle,
.fter
an
even
padding
has
been
obtained,
finish
off
with
long
straight
stitches
as
in
hand
work.
Tack
the
pattern
in
position
and
place
the
work
in
the
embroidery
frame.
Stitch
it
fast
with
small,
tight
stitches
around
the
edge.
The
ragged
edges
can
be
cove
red
by
fastening
the
thicker
thread
with
a
couple
of
cross
stitches,
laying
it
one
side
and
sewing
a
couple
of
stitches
along
the
edge
of
the
pattern,
then
sewing
anot
her
couple
of
stitches
over
the
thicker
thread
and
couple
more
along
the
edge
of
the
pattern
and
so
on.
(Fig.
25.)
If
piping,
wool
or
braid
is
to
be
sewn
on
the
material
(soutache
embroidery)
the
piping
apparatus
is
a
very
handy
accessory,
This
is
similar
to
the
presser
foot
(and
replaces
it)
but
is
fitted
at
the
front
with
an
opening
through
which
the
pipings
runs
(Fig.
26).
Insert
the
piping
under
the
needle
as
far
as
it
will
go,
depress
the
presser
foot
and
begin
to
sew.
When
sewing
in
braid
the
braider
must
be
used.
First
of
all
sew
an
ordinary
seam
in
double
material.
Place
the
braid
between
the
layers
of
material,
adjust
the
braider
and
allow
the
raised
part
from
the
braid
to
run
through
the
groove
by
the
needle
hole
while
at
the
same
time
stitching
a
new
seam
as
close
to
the
braid
as
possible
without
actually
sewing
into
it.
When
several
rows
of
braiding
are
sewn,
the
preceding
row
runs
in
the
other
groove.
Fig.
24.
Fig.
25.
Fig.
26.
15
--
1L
This
is
how
you
sew
a
“rya”,
rug
\Xhcn
making
a
rug
on
the
Husqvarna
a
so
called
wea
ver’s
reed
is
used
in
combination
s
ith
the
regular
presser
toot
(Fig.
27.
This
reed
it
a
flat
piece
ot
steel
with
a
long
slot
and
device
for
locking
the
ends
together.
The
machine
stitches
along
the
slot,
fastening
the
wool
loops
to
the
rug
base.
In
addition
to
wool
for
the
pile
sou
need
a
No.
40
sew
ing
thread
in
the
same
shade
as
the
yarn,
and
a
size
19
or
20
(110
or
120)
needle.
Get
the
thread
tension
as
tight
as
possible
and
set
for
medium-length
stitches.
As
a
base
for
cushions
or
wail
hangings
canvas
can
very
well
be
used,
hut
for
rugs
a
heavy
lute
weave
is
best.
Divide
the
base
into
7
16
in.
(11
mm)
squares
with
a
pencil
line,
leaving
about
3
8
in.
(10
mm)
around
the
edges.
Lock
the
ends
of
the
reed
and
wind
the
yarn
loosely
around
it.
in
close
turns.
If
on
wind
too
tightly,
the
nar
now
tongue
of
the
reed
may
come
too
close
to
the
broad
part,
lea
mg
insufficient
space
for
the
needle
to
stitch
in
—
and
a
bent
or
broken
needle
may
result.
Push
the
yarn
up
towards
the
middle
of
the
reed,
lower
the
presser
foot
and
sew
along
the
slot
to
fasten
the
loops
to
the
base.
Wind
more
yarn
on
the
reed
—
changing
colour
as
required
by
the
pattern
—
and
stitch
again.
Cut
the
ioops
as
you
go
along,
without
removing
the
work
from
the
machine.
Open
the
lock
and
move
the
reed
forward
as
you
sew.
As
each
row
is
completed,
turn
the
ork
round
and
stitch
ba.k
again
into
fasten
the
loops
extra
firmly.
Repeat
the
n
hole
procedure
row
by
row
until
the
rug
is
finished.
Fig.
27.
16
Attaching
lace
edging
If
it
is
required
to
sew
on
a
lace
border
and
hem
the
material
at
the
same
time
the
procedure
is
exactly
the
same
as
with
ordinary
hemming.
Replace
the
presser
foot
saith
the
small
hemmer.
The
mate
rial
is
run
into
the
hemmer
while
the
lace
is
fed
through
the
spiral
lying
nearest
to
the
needle
hole.
NB.
Check
that
the
needle
passes
through
both
the
material
and
the
lace.
Fig.
28.)
[‘or
darning
use
the
darning
foot.
Techniques
vary
depending
on
whether
you
are
doing
ordinary
darning,
darning
edges
or
corners,
or
darning
to
reproduce
a
pattern.
But
there
are
certain
basic
rules
which
are
common
to
all
these
operations.
Basic
rules
1.
It
is
important
that
you
select
a
suitable
needle
and
thread
that
really
matches
it.
For
darning,
a
special
thread
should
be
used
which
you
can
obtain
from
your
Husqvarna
dealer.
2.
Thread
tension
is
important
too
A
lighter
tension
of
the
upper
thread
is
required
for
darning
than
for
almost
any
other
operation
—
usually
with
three
rings
showing
on
the
tension
control.
You
can
obtain
the
right
tension
by
experimenting
a
little;
but
do
not
alter
the
lower
thread
tension
unless
it
is
absolutely
necessary.
3.
The
feed
dog
should
be
lo
ered
so
you
can
make
the
stitches
as
required.
4.
Use
the
embroidery
hoop
that
conses
with
the
machine,
stretching
the
fabric
over
it
and
securing
it
firmly.
To
make
sure
that
the
material
does
not
slip,
it
may
be
well
to
bind
the
inner
ring
of
the
hoop
with
tape.
Such
binding
is
also
useful
for
holding
the
temporary
threads
used
when
darning
edges.
5.
When
the
material
has
been
stretched
over
the
hoop,
place
the
work
under
the
darning
foot
and
lower
the
presser
bar.
Don’t
forget
to
lower
the
foot,
otherwise
you
vu
1
get
loops
on
the
wrong
side
of
the
darn.
6.
Bring
the
lower
thread
out
on
top
of
the
material,
and
after
locking
the
threads
with
a
couple
of
stitches,
cut
them
off.
Fig.
28.
17
Ordinary
darning
Darning
an
edge
Start
by
sewing
backwards
and
forwards
over
the
hole,
making
long
stitches
across
the
fabric
(that
is,
in
the
direction
of
the
selvage).
Since
the
feed
dog
is
inoperative,
you
have
to
move
the
work
by
hand.
The
quicker
ou
move
it,
the
longer
will
be
the
stitches.
The
darned
spot
will
be
stronger
and
less
visible
if
the
stitches
run
off
unevenly
into
the
fabric.
\When
you
have
stitched
in
one
direc
tion,
turn
the
work
around
a
quarter
turn
and
work
acron.
See
Fig.
29.
Filling
in
can
be
done
lengthwise,
on
the
bias,
or
round
in
circles
—
all
depending
on
the
fabric.
Move
the
work
slowly,
to
keep
the
stitches
short,
aitd
see
that
they
match
the
material.
For
a
big
hole
you
can
use
gauze
as
a
base.
Fold
a
piece
double
and
lay
it
over
the
hole,
then
run
a
row
of
stitching
around
it
about
i
in.
(6
mm)
from
the
edge
of
the
hole,
and
trim
off.
This
saves
you
the
trouble
of
“weaving”
—
all
you
need
to
do
is
to
fill
in.
18
With
the
strong
side
uppermost.
stretch
the
fabric
in
the
hoop
so
that
the
hole
comes
in
the
middle
(Fig.
30).
Then
take
a
needle
and
thread
and
lace
the
free
edge
to
the
taped
inner
ring
of
the
hoop.
Having
placed
the
work
in
the
machine,
bring
up
and
lock
the
threads
at
the
edge
of
the
hole,
and
stitch
four
times
up
and
down
along
the
line
of
the
new
edge.
.fove
the
work
quickly
to
make
these
stitches
long.
Then
continue
stitching
parallel
to
the
edge
until
the
hole
is
covered.
Fill
in
with
short
stitches
(mo
ving
the
work
slowly)
running
at
right
angles
to
the
edge,
and
finally
reinforce
the
edge
by
stitching
along
it
a
couple
of
times.
Fig.
29.
Fig.
30.
Darning
corners
The
simplest
way
to
mend
worn
corners
is
to
use
tarla
tan
or
gauze
as
a
foundation.
Stretch
the
gauze
in
the
hoop
with
the
worn
corner
on
top
of
it
(Fig.
31).
First
ww
around
the
edges,
and
then
darn
the
worn
part
in
the
way
best
suited
to
the
fabric.
Sometimes
buttonhole
or
plain
stitching
should
be
used
to
reinforce
the
edges.
Trim
off
the
gauze
when
you
have
finished.
Darning
a
patterned
fabric
If
the
fabric
has
a
pattern
woven
into
it,
you
can
hide
the
repair
as
follows
(Fig.
32).
Darn
the
hole
first,
then
draw
the
missing
pattern
with
a
pencil.
Remove
the
darn
ing
foot.
and
fill
in
the
pattern
by
stitching
at
right
angles
to
the
stitches
of
the
darn.
If
you
follow
the
pattern
closely
t
will
stand
out
and
the
darn
will
be
less
noticeable.
Fig.
31.
Fig.
32.
19
Look
after
your
Husqvarna
t’s
urprIsini
how
mane
people
have
never
taken
the
trouble
to
find
out
how
a
ew
iiii
machine
should
be
cared
for.
Tru,
sewin
ma
chi
iie
are
unusualk
tough
puce
of
(-qlilprncnt.
which
I
on
v
orki
ii
i
for
sears
ss
ithout
beini
oiled
or
cleaned.
But
they
don’t
like
it.
and
they
proiaim
their
dislike
by
runnin.
rmihl
y
and
makini
a
o
iii
nini.
srapitig
noise.
I
ike
any
preusion-n-iade
itiacisi
ic,
the
[Iusq
varna
o
ill
al
is
aus
operate
smooth
Ii,
silently
and
efficiently
if
it
is
properly
attended
to
and
oiled
reularl
v.
A
sewing
machine
needs
proper
care
Jig.
33.
4
,*v
1,
Jig.
34.
20
Oiling
Cleaning
The
arross
s
on
the
pictures
opposite
Tiis,
33
and
34)
show
here
the
machine
should
get
a
drop
of
oil
once
a
eck
if
it
is
continuously
in
use.
If
used
only
oc
casionally,
oil
every
three
months.
Oil
stremelv
sparingly.
Overoiling
doesn’t
help
—
it
causes
the
oil
to
run
out
and
stain
the
work
when
ou
are
sewing.
To
Jean
the
machine,
use
the
brush
you
will
find
in
the
attachment
boy.
Open
the
cm
er
plate
at
the
left
end
of
the
upper
arm
and
brush
off
the
fuzz
that
has
accumulated
in
the
mechanism.
Then
screw
of
the
throat
plate
und
brush
the
feed
da
Jean
—
brushing
underneath
the
teeth
as
well
as
hctss
uen
them
Fig.
36.
Other
places
ss
here
the
machine
needs
oiling
occasionally
are
shown
by
arross
in
Fig.
35.
The
jam-proof
shuttle
uivr
needs
oiling
—
es.ccpt
the
centre
post
of
the
shuttle
(A,
hg.
II)
which
you
can
give
a
drop
of
oil
from
time
to
time.
Fig.
35.
Fig.
36.
21
Table
of
contents:
Appliqué
15
Basting
13
Bobbin
case
Inserting
6
Removing
from
shuttle
3
Threading
5
Bobbin
winding
4
Braiding
15
Cleaning
21
Corner
turning
9
Darning
17—19
Edge
guide
10
Embroidery
Solid
raised
stitching
15
Feed
dog
7
Felled
scams
13
Finishing
off
9
Gathering
12
Marking
13
Needle
Page
Inserting
of needle
3
Selection
of
needle
2
Oiling
21
Piping
15
Quilting
and
marking
10
Rugmaking
16
Stitching
Forward
and
reverse
Stitch
length
setting
Stitehcd
edges
Thread
Selection
2
Tension
5,
7
Troubles
Causes
and
remedies
22—23
Tu*s
11
Zippers
—
attaching
11
Page
9
9
ii
Please
note
The
manufacturer
of
the
Husqvarna
does
not
consider
the
machine
sold
until
you
are
really
satisfied
and
have
found
how
to
get
the
best
out
of
it.
If
there
are
any
questions
to
which
you
cannot
find
an
answer
in
this
manual,
we
suggest
you
turn
to
your
Husqvarna
dealer.
If
the
machine
should
not
operate
satisfactorily,
do
not
try
to
adjust
or
repair
it
yourself,
let
an
authorized
Husqvarna
dealer
look
at
it.
and
thus
ensure
getting
the
best
possible
service.
Your
Hus
qvarna
deserves
it!
C
C,)
0
z
m
0
‘a
I
0
a
a
… 7 …

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