610281

Husqvarna Viking 20 Handleiding

13
Verklein
Vergroot
Pagina terug
1/21
Pagina verder
‘Fable
of
coiieiis
Puge
APPLIQUE
29
BAR
TACKS
2!
BASTING
STITCHES
18
BLINDST1TCII1NG
21)
BOBBIN
Inserting
into
bobbin
case
.
.
.
13
Winding
11
BOBBIN
CASE
Inserting
into
sewing
hook
.
..
.
13
Removing
from
sewing
hook
.
.
12
Threading
[2
BRAIDING
28
BUTTONHOLES
Plain
21
Corded
22
BUTTON
SEWING
23
CLEANING
117
CLOTh
GUIDE
27
COMMENCING
TO
SEW
15
CORDING
28
CORDING—I)OUBLE
NEEDLE
35
CORNER
TURNING
15
DARNING
20
EMBROIDERY
19
EYELET
EMBROIDERY
ATTACHMENT
35
FEED
DOG)
lowering
17
FELLING
with
hemmer
foot
.
..
26
GATHERING
30
GETTING
READY
FOR
SE
WING
15
HEMMING
Narrow
seams
21
Rolled
edges
24
Shell
stitch
25
Zig-zag
25
HEMSTITCHING
29
Puge
INTRODUCTION
3
LACE
Attaching
edging
28
Insertions
28
MENI)ING
20
MONOGRAMS
it)
N
REDLE
Inserting
into
machine
. .
.
...
It
Selection
of
(chart
of
sizes)
.
.
9
OILING
37
ORNAMENTAL
SEAMS
18
OVERCASTING
EDGES
23
PREI’ARING
MAChINE
6
PRESSER
FOOT
Regulating
Pressure
13
QUILTING
20
RUFFLiNG
3(1
S
EWI
NC
forward
anti
reverse
16
straight
17
zig-zag
18
SHELL
STITChING
25
SHIRRING
36
SPECIAL
EQUIPMENT
LIST
.
.
8
STANDARD
EQUIPMENT
LIST
8
STITCHES:
regulating
length
of
16
STRAW
FOLDS
33
TFIREAI),
selection
of
10
THREAD
TENSION,
adjusting
.
16
THREAI)ING
MACHINE
13
TROUBLES,
causes
and
remedies
38
TWO
NEEI)LE
ATTACHMENT
33
ZIG-ZAG
llemming
25
Sewing
18
Starting
position
18
ZIPPERS;
attaching
27
40
SCHMO
BOHR
A
)Q
t4)6e6
Operating
manual
for
Husqvarna
zig
zag
sewing
machine
class
20
Introduction:
This
manual
has
been
prepared
for
the
purpose
of
instructing
you
in
the
use and
operation
of
your
Husqvarna
Zig
Zag
Sewing
Machine.
It
is
suggested
that
you
familiarize
yourself
with
these
instructions.
Study
them
carefully,
because
their
knowledge
will
enable
you
to
take
fullest
advantage
of
the
many
special
features
your
machine
has
to
offer.
As
your
machine
represents
a
considerable
in
vestment,
treat
it
with
the
care
that
is
due
any
piece
of
precision
made
machinery.
Neglect
and
careless
handling
will
not
only
account
for
un
satisfactory
results
of
your
sewing,
but
will
also
shorten
the
service
life
of
your
machine.
The
following
instructions
and
your
reference
to
the
various
illustrations
will
serve
as
a
step
by
step
guide
to
get
you
and
your
machine
ready
for
sewing.
Even
after
you
have
learned
how
to
ope
rate
your
machine,
you
will
find this
booklet
a
handy
help
in
solving
future
sewing
problems.
It
is,
therefore,
suggested
that
it
be
preserved
carefully.
3
Presser
foot
Presser
foot
screw
Presser
bar
Thread
guide
Needle
clamp
Needle
8et
screw
Needle
bar
Thread
guide
Slash
thread
regulator
Tension
disc
Tension
regulator
knob
12.
Take-up
spring
13.
Take-up
lever
14.
Thread
guide
15.
Thread
guide
16.
Machine
staff
17.
Scale
for
the
starting
position
18.
Starting
position
knob
19.
Handwheel
20.
Stitch
regulator
scale
21.
Stitch
regulator
index
22.
Stitch
regulator
grip
23.
Zig-zag
regulation
scale
24.
Zig-zag
regulation
knob
25.
Drop
feed
button
26.
Scale
for
needle
system
etc.
27.
Groundplate
30.
Catch
for
the
case
31.
Shuttle
door
32.
Needle
plate
33.
Feed
dog
34.
Needle
plate
35.
Presser
foot
lifter
36.
Knife
for
the
thread
C:,
Electric
cord
to
the
wall
Electric
cord
to
the
motor
control
39.
Bobbin
40.
Spindle
for
bobbin
winding
41.
Tension
discs
42.
Slow
sewing
43.
Thread
guide
44.
Screw
for
tension
arrangement
45.
Breaker
for
the
lamp
46,
Plug
47.
Spool
pin
Fig.
1.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
9.
10,
11.
38--j
Fig.
2.
37.
38.
5
Take
foot
control
out
of
its
corn
partinent
in
the
carrying
case.
To
facilitate
the
sewing
of
flat
work,
the
extension
plate
can
be
installed
on
the
machine.
To
secure
this
extension
plate,
slip
open
end
into
the
free
arm
as
shown
in
fig.
4.
Guide
fork
(50)
at
underside
of
extension
plate
into
pin
(49)
projecting
from
rear
of
free
arm.
At
the
same
time
pull
bolt
(48)
on
underside
of
extension
plate
near
its
right
end
and
permit
it
to
enter
its
seat
hole
(51)
in
the
side
of
the
arm.
Finally,
swing
downward
from
the
left
end
of
the
extension
plate,
the
supporting
leg.
If
neces
sary,
mew
in
or
out
its
ball
shaped
bottom
in
order
to
obtain
the
required
support
and
also
for
the
purpose
of
levelling
the
extension
plate.
Before
using
your
new
machine
give
it
a
good
cleaning
and
put
one
or
two
drops
of
light-bodied
sewing
machine
oil
into
each
oil
hole.
The
oilcan
is
a
part
of
the
accessories
of
your
machine.
Oiling
instructions
will
be
found
on
page
37.
Making
the
electrical
connection
The
machine
is
driven
by
an
electric
motor
located
in
the
back
of
the
ma
chine.
This
motor
permits
operation
on
AC
and
1)C
current.
The
speed
of
the
machine
is
regulated
by
means
of
a
motor
control,
foot
operated,
which
is
to
be
plugged
to
the
motor
(see
fig.
2).
Before
plugging
the
electric
cord,
coming
out
from
the
machine,
into
your
electric
wall
out
let,
make
certain
that
your
house
voltage
corresponds
to
the
voltage
marked
on
the
plate
over
the
motor.
Do
not
plug
in
unless
they
conform
within
10
volts.
Note:
When
your
sewing
is
com
pleted,
disconnect
the
electric
cord
of
the
sewing
machine
from
outlet.
The
lighting
The
light
can
be
put
on
and
off
by
pressing
the
button
45
above
the
motor.
(Fig.
2.)
The
bulb
is
placed
in
the
arm
of
the
machine
and
the
light
comes
through
a
grating
under
neath
the
arm.
When
changing
bulb,
disconnect
first
the
electric
cord.
When
opening
the
grating
(fig.
5)
the
lamp
slopes
down
and
the
bulb
can
easily
be
ta
ken
away.
When
the
new
bulb
is
fi,ced
push
up
the
lamp
and
close
the
grating.
The
bulb
has
a
bayonet
socle
and
must
therefore
be
pressed
in
and
turred
before
taking
it
out.
For
certain
operations
the
lamp
is
of
more
use
in
the
turned
down
po
sition
(see
fig.
5).
Slow
stitching
when
enibroidering
In
order
to
obtain
an
exceptionally
low
speed,
very
easy
to
regulate,
the
button
42
to
the
right
of
the
machine
(fig.
(3)
can
be
removed
(turn
it
so
that
the
mark
on
the
button
comes
up)
and
can
then
be
placed
on
the
bobbin
spindle
right
below.
This
low
speed
should
not,
however,
be
used
for
ordinary
stitching
but
only
for
embroidery
work.
The
button
must
always
be
inser
ted
into
some
of
these
two
positions,
otherwise
the
motor
will
be
damaged,
if
the
current
is
connected.
i”ig.
3.
Preparing
the
machine
for
sewing
Lift
machine
out
of
its
carrying
case
and
place
it
in
a
convenient
position
near
the
edge
of
your
sewing
table.
Fig.
4.
Plain
sewing.
Extra
slow
sewing.
Fig.
5.
Fig.
7.
7-
The
machine
is
equipped
with
the
following
accessories:
S
15411
Box
for
attachments
S
15416
Oilcan
S
15010
Cleaning
brush
S
15399
Buttonhole
knife
S
11729
Bobbin
3046
Screwdriver,
small
S 15406
,,
large
Darning
hoop
6
needles
1
twin
needle
and
the
following
standard
attach
ments:
S
15229
Joint
zig-zag
presser
foot
(on
the
machine)
S
15395
Presser
foot
for
zipper
faste
ner
S
15428
Buttonhole
foot
S
15237
Button
foot
S
15103
Darning
foot
3035
hemmer,
/io”
S
15236
Hemmer
for
roll
seam
S
16419
Biesen
foot
with
3
grooves
5
15427
Plaiter
for
biesen
seam
The
following
attachments
can
be
supplied
upon
request
at
extra
cost
3020
Attachment
for
ruffling
and
kilt
in
g
S
15367
Hemstitcher
S
15432
Needle
plate
for
3
f
is”
eyelets
S
15433
,,
,,
,,
Thi”
,,
S
15426
Biesen
presser
foot
with
1
groove
Twin
needles
with
/32”
needle
distance
Twin
needles
with
%“
in
different
needle
distance
sizes
Twin
needles
with
/32”
needle
distance
3019
Gathering
foot
S
15150
Joint
presser
foot
for
straight
seam
S
15232
Joint
zig-zag
presser
foot
with
a
cord
hole
3002
hemmer,
l32’
S
15240
Hemmer
for
walloping
tIS
428
S
15237
S
15229
S
15236
S
15395
Selecting
the
correct
needles
and
thread
The
seam
produced
by
the
sewing
machine
should
blend
with
the
fabric
as
much
as
possible
except,
of
course,
where
contrast
is
desired.
Conse
quently,
the
correct
selection
of
need-
lea
and
thread,
matching
the
type
of
material
you
are
sewing,
is
of
im
portance.
S
15419
S
15427
Twin
needle
Heavy
goods
require
a
thicker
needle
and
coarser
thread
while
sheer
fabrics
call
for
a
fine
needle
and
thin
thread.
Needles
system
705
must
be
used
on
class
20
for
satisfactory
opera
tion.
1)o
not
substitute
any
other
sy
stem.
For
permanent
reference
the
correct
system
of
needle
is
also
indi
cated
on
the
plate
attached
to
the
front
of
the
arm
of
the
machine.
Fig.
8.
Accessories
and
attachments
S
15399
S
15423
S
15420
S
12111
Needle
plate
for
“
eyelets
Edge
guide
Screw
for
attachments
3035
S
15103
S
15423
S
15420
S
15398
8
9
Grades
Sizes
Itediuni
fine
Lights
heavy
Delicat?
fabrics
like
georgette,
chiffon,
batiste,
fine
lace,
fine
linen
and
other
sheer
fabrics.
For
fine
lingerie,
infants’
clo
thes
and
fine
lace
work.
Medium
light-weight
and
sum
mertime
fabrics.
For
house
dresses, children’s
dresses,
cottons,
aprons,
cur
tains.
Dress
silks
and cottons,
light
weight
to
woolens
and
decora
tor’s
fabrics.
For
dressmaking
and
general
household
sewing,
men’s
dress
shirts
and
light
weight
dra
peries.
Heavy
cretonne,
madras,
mus
lin,
brocades
and
quilts.
For
men’s
work
shirts
and
other
work
clothes,
heavy
quil
ting and
decorators’
articles.
Heavy
woolens
and
suiting,
light
weight
canvas,
bed
tick
ing,
upholstery
and
awning
materials,
slipcover
fabrics.
For
men’s
suits,
work
and
sports
clothes
awnings,
slip-
covers,
upholstery
and
mat
tresses.
Heavy
overcoating,
duck,
tick
ing,
drills,
canvas
and
sack
ing.
For
heavy washable
uniforms,
bedding
for
hospitals,
hotels
and camps.
Extra
heavy and
coarse
goods.
For
canvas
bags
and
heavy
canvas
products.
twist
C
twist
D
twist
B
twist
Turn
handwheel
toward
you
until
the
needle
has
reached
the
highest
point
of
its
course.
Loosen
needle
set
screw
(6)
and
pull
out
old
needle.
Insert
new
needle
into
needle
clamp
(5),
pushing
it
up
as
far
as
it
goes.
Make
sure
that
the
flat
side
of
the
needle
is
turned
against
the
needle
bar,
so
that
the
1
o
n
g
groove
of
the
needle
faces
you.
Tighten
needle
set
screw
(6)
secu
rely.
Recheck
whether
needle
is
in-
sorted
correctly.
Needle’s
eye
must
face
you
as
you
sit
in
front
of
the
machine
(fig. 9).
When
a
twin-needle
is
used,
this
is
inserted
in
the
same
manner
(fig.
10).
Winding
a
bobbin
a.
Place
a
spool
of
thread
on
the
spool
pin
(47)
nearest
to
the
needle
bar.
Lead
end
of
thread
along
the
arm through
wire
guide
(14)
to
thread
guide
(43)
on
the
cover
for
the
belt.
Pull
thread
under
the
guide
(43)
and
from
left
to
right
between
the
discs
(41)
of
the tension
device.
b.
Wind
the
thread
two
or
three
times
around
the
bobbin
and
push
it
onto
bobbin
winder
spindle
(39)
as
far
as
it
will
go.
The
sewing
machine
is
then
automatically
stopped.
c.
Start
off
the
bobbinwinder
by
pressing
pedal
of
motor
con
trol
and
keep
it
running
at
moderate
speed
until the
bob
bin is
almost
filled.
In
any
case
the
bobbin
should
not
be
more
filled
than
that
it
easily
goes
into
the
bobbin
case.
Stop
ma
chine
and
pull
bobbin
off
the
bobbin
winder
spindle
(39).
The
sewing
machine
will
then
auto
matically
operate
again.
Note:
Only
an
evenly
wound
bob
bin
will
let
the
machine
do
the
best
stitching.
Bobbins
having
thread
piled
up
at
one
side
should,
therefore,
be
avoided.
To
correct
poor
and
uneven
wind
ing
such
as
pictured
on
sample
I,
loosen
screw
(44)
holding
tension
device
and
move
it
slightly
to
the
left.
Tighten
screw and
continue
winding
which
now
will
be
found
ins-
proved.
Piled up
threads
as
seen
on
sample
II
can
be
avoided
by
moving
tension
device
to
the
right.
Sample
III
shows
a bobbin
wound
correctly.
Needle
and
thread
selector
Sizes
&
grades
of
needles
System
705
Type
of
fabric
and
work
to
be
done
Fine
Inserting
a
new
needle
r:’
1
1
Lu
00
and
000
twist
0
twist
Medium
60
70
80
90
100—
110
120
130
Size
of
tiir,’a,t
Cotton
Silk
j
Linen
60
to
80
40
to
60
Fig.
9.
100
to
150
80
to
100
60
to
80
40
to
60
30
to
40
24
to
30
20
to
24
Medium-
heavy
Heavy
Extra-
heavy
Pig.
10.
1:0
11
Turn
handwheel
(19)
(fig.
1)
to
ward
you
until
the
needle
bar
(7)
reaches
its
highest
point.
Open
the
shuttle
door
(31).
Take
out
the
bobbin
case
with
the
thumb
and
forefinger
(fig.
11).
Then
the
latch
(1)
(fig.
12)
is
pressed
in.
As
long
as
the
latch
is
pressed
in
the
bobbin
is
retained
in
its
case.
On
releasing
the
latch
and
turning
the
bobbin
case
downward,
the
bobbin
drops
out.
a.
hold
bobbin
case
in
your
left
hand
with
slot
in
edge
of
shell
up
wards
or
facing
you
(fig.
13).
Grasp
the
bobbin
with
your
right
hand,
so
that
the
thread
on
top
leads
from
left
to
right.
Drop
bobbin
into
bob
bin
case
(fig.
14).
b.
Using
the
right
hand,
draw
the
thread
into
the
slot
in
the
edge
of
the
bobbin
case,
as
shown
in
fig.
15.
c.
Now
pull
the
thread
under
the
tension
spring
(fig.
15)
and
let
it
come
out
in
the
middle
of
the
bent
tab
at
the
tip
of
the
spring
over
the
small
hole
in
the
bobbin
case.
(Fig.
15.)
Inserting
the
bobbin
case
with
bobbin
Turn
handwheel
toward
you
until
needle
reaches
its
highest
point.
Open
shuttle
door
(31)
(fig.
1).
Take
bob
bin
case
with
same
grip
as
employed
in
removing
it
and
place
it
on
the
centerpost
(fig.
16)
of
the
hook
with
the
semi-circular
notch
facing
up
ward.
Control
that
the
bobbin
case
can
not
he
pushed
further
against
the
hook.
Pull
bobbin
thread
3—4
inches
to
hang
down
freely.
Threading
the
machine
Bring
thread
take-up
lever
(13)
(fig.
17)
to
its
highest
position
by
turning
handwheel
toward
you.
Place
a
spool
of
thread
on
a
spool
pin
of
the
spool
holder.
Pass
the
thread
through
the
holes
in
thread
guides
14
and
15
(fig.
17).
Pull
it
downward
to
tension
discs
(10)
and
around
them
from
right
to
left.
Guide
it
upward
and
to
the
left
over
the
crotch
of
the
thread
take-up
spring
(12),
then
Cn,r,,t
.—
Removing
the
bobbin
case
from
the
sewing
hook
Fit,’.
12.
Threading
the
bobbin
case
Fig.
16.
4
I,
e..
Fig.
11.
Fig.
13.
Fig.
15.
13
The presser
foot
To
exchange
presser
foot:
down
again
and
from
right
to
left
around
the
underside
of
slack
thread
regulator
(9).
From
there
lead
the
thread
upward
to
the
eyes
at
the
tip
of
the
thread
take-up
lever
(13)
and
through
same
from
right
to
left,
downward
through
thread
guide
(8)
and
the
thread
guide
in
the
needle
clamp
(4).
The
thread
is
then
passed
through
the
eye
of
the
needle
from
front
to back,
Pull
3—4
inches
of
thread
through
the
eye
of
the
needle.
When
the
machine
is
provided
with
a
double
needle,
the
machine
is
like
wise
threaded
as
described
above
with
the
second
thread
through
the
other
hole
in
the
take-up
lever,
Note:
Once
threaded,
do
not
run
machine
unless
there
is
cloth
between
the
presser
foot
and
the
needle
plate
and
the
presser
foot
is
let
down.
To
permit
the machine
to
stitch
properly
and
to
feed
the
material
(past
the
needle),
the
presser
foot
(1)
must
he
clown
on
the
material.
Presser
foot
lifter
(35)
controls
the
raising
and
lowering
of
the
presser
foot
(fig.
18).
Regulating
the
pressure
of
the
presser foot:
Turn
regulator
wheel
(32)
(fig.
18)
to
the
right
for
more
pressure
and
to
the
left
to
reduce
it.
When
sewing
heavier
material,
stronger
pressure
of
the
presser
foot
is
often
desired.
Thin
cloth
usually
requires
reduced
pressure
of
the
pres
ser
foot.
Changing
the
presser
foot:
Many
of
the
various
operations
possible
with
class
20
require
the
use
of
the
special
presser
feet
included
in
the
attachments
of
the
machine.
a.
Turn
handwheel
toward
you
until
needle
is
at
its
highest
point.
b.
Lift
presser
foot
as
described
above.
c.
Loosen
thumb
screw
(2)
fig.
1
about
three
turns.
d.
Push
presser
foot
downward
from
its
seat
on
the
presser
bar.
Tilt
the
bottom
of
the
foot
to
the
left
and
remove
the
foot.
e.
To
instal
a
different
presser
foot,
slide
its
channel-like
por
tion
at
the
top
against
the
pres
ser
bar
and
tighten
thumb
screw
(2).
Getting
ready
for
sewing
a.
Hold
end
of
needle
thread
with
left
hand,
so
that
thread
remains
slack and
with
right
hand
turn
the
hand
wheel
slowly
toward
you
until
the
needle
goes
down
antI
comes
up
again
to
its
highest
position, In
so
doing,
the
upper
thread
(needle
thread)
will
catch the
lower
thread
(bobbin
thread).
b.
Now
draw
up
the
upper
thread
and
at
the
same
time
the
lower
thread
will
be
pulled
UI)
through
the
stitch
hole
in
the
needle
plate
(see
fig.
19).
c.
Both
thread
ends
must
then
be
placed
away
from
you
underneath
the
presser
foot.
Now
your
machine
is
ready
for
sewing.
Commencing
to
sew
Take
some
material,
place
it
be
tween
presser
foot
antI
needle
plate
and
lower
the
presser
foot.
Move
foot
control
in
convenient
position
when
machine
is
so
equipped.
Turn
handwheel
toward
you
and
at
the
same time
apply
slight
pressure
with
your
foot
on
the
pedal
of
the
foot
control.
Once
the
machine
is
in
mo
tion,
proceed
with sewing
as
desired.
Note:
I)o
not
try
to
help
feeding
action
of
machine
by
pulling
goods
from
behind
needle
nor
hold
back
material
to
slow
up
the
speed
of
the
machine.
Both
actions
may
bend
or
break
the
needle
and
may
also
re
stilt
in
damage
to
other
working
paris
of
your
machine.
Turning
a
corner
To
turn
a
corner,
stop
machine
where
corner
is
desired,
leaving
needle
in
material.
Lift
presser
foot
and
revolve
material
around
needle
as
required.
Lower
presser
foot
and
continue
sewing.
Regulating
the
kngth
of
stitches
The
length
of
the
stitches
is
regu
lated
with
handle
(22)
(fig.
20).
Fig.
17.
Fig.
19.
Fig.
18.
14
15
The
pointer
(21)
indicates
on
the
scale
the
length
of
the
stitch.
The
movement
of
the
handle
is
arrested
for
each
length
of
stitch
by
the
wheel.
When
the
wheel
is
turned
to
the
left
the
handle
can
be
pushed
downwards
and
the
stitch
will
be
longer.
Sewing
forward
and
reverse
When
the
handle
is
below
the
centre,
the
material
is
fed
away
from
the
person
sewing.
If
the
handle
is
moved
upwards
the
material
will
be
fed
towards
the
person
sewing.
Sewing
in
re
verse
is
pos
sible
regardless
of
the
length
of
stitch
selected.
The
rapid
re
versal
of
the
direction
of
sewing
is
parti
cularly
valuable
when
tacking
at
the
end
of
seams.
:
Removing
the
work
from
the
machine
Stop
machine.
Turn
handwheel
to
ward
you
until
needle
is
at
its
high
est
point.
Raise
presser
foot
by
means
of
presser
foot
lifter.
Draw
the
ma
terial
directly
back
from
the
needle
(away
from
you).
Pull
out
about
4—5
inches
and
cut
threads.
Adjusting
the
thread
tension
Correct
tension
of
needle
thread
(upper
thread)
and
bobbin
thread
(lower
thread)
can
easily
be
deter
mined
as
follows:
When
the
tensions
of
upper
and
lower
thread
are
properly
adjusted,
the
stitches
will
look
alike
on
both
sides
of
the
material,
as
shown
in
fig.
21
and
no
correction
is
necessary.
If
tension
of
upper
thread
is
too
tight
or
tension
of
lower
thread
too
loose,
the
upper
thread
will
lie
stretched
out
on
top
of
the
material
and
the
lower
thread
will
be
drawn
up
to
the
top,
appearing
there
in
form
of
small
knots
(see
fig.
22).
To
correct
this,
first
make
certain
that
the
presser
foot
is
let
down.
Fig.
21.
Fig.
23.
Then
turn
tension
regulator
knob
(11),
fig.
1,
to
the
left.
The
figures
and
the
stripes
on
the
tension
regu
lator
knob
will
be
found
helpful
in
adjusting
the
tension,
as
they
will
indicate
initial
positions
of
the
knob
and
make
it
possible
to
select
a
spe
cial
tension
for
a
certain
thread.
Make
several
stitches
to
see
if
the
upper
thread
tension
is
correct.
If
not,
adjust
further
by
turning
regu
lator
knob
to
the
left.
If
tension
of
upper
thread
is
too
loose
or
tension
of
lower
thread
too
tight,
the
lower
thread
will
lie
stret
ched
out
along
the
underside
of
the
material
and
the
upper
thread
will
be
drawn
down
to
the
underside,
ap
pearing
there
in
the
form
of
small
knots
or
loops
(fig.
23).
To
correct
this,
first
make
sure
that
the
presser
foot
is
let
down,
then
turn
tension
regulator
knob
(11)
(fig.
1)
to
the
right.
Make
a
few
stitches
to
see
whether
tension
is
correct.
If
not,
make
fur
ther
adjustments
by
turning
the
re
gulator
knob
to
the
right.
If
at
all
possible,
always
regulate
tension
by
adjusting
upper
tension.
The
lower
tension
should
not
be
re
gulated
unless
absolutely
essential,
as
this
adjustment
is
more
delicate.
In
case
you
consider
it
necessary
to
adjust
the
lower
tension,
remove
bob
bin
case
from
the
machine.
Turn
bob
bin
case
spring
screw,
fig.
24,
to
the
right
to
tighten
lower
thread
tension.
If
the
tension
is
to
be
les
sened,
turn
this
screw
to
the
left.
Note:
i)o
not
turn
bobbin
case
spring
screw
more
than
about
turn
at
a
time
in
either
direction.
Then
try
and
check
for
results.
Lowering
the
feed
(log:
(Drop
feed
for
darning
and
em
broidery).
For
the
purpose
of
darning
and
enibroidering
the
feed
(log
(33)
fig.
1
can
be
lowered,
so
that
the
work
can
be
fed
by
hand
in
any
desired
direction.
To
effect
this,
turn
the
wheel
25
to
the
right
a
half
revolution
so
long
it
will
go.
Then
the
mark
on
the
wheel
will
be
downwards.
The
feeding
mechanism
will
be
put
back
into
ope
ration
if
the
wheel
is
turned
to
the
left
a
half
revolution
so
long
it
will
go.
Straight
sewing
The
machine
will
make
a
plane
straight
stitch
when
the
zig-zag
re
gulator
knob
(24),
fig.
25,
points
at
marking
“0”
at
extreme
left
of
dial.
Zig-zag
sewing
Setting
the
zig-zag
regulating
knob,
fig.
25,
to
any
other
(hal
marking
but
“0”.
will
produce
a
zig-zag
stitch.
The
width
of
this
zig-zag
stitch
can
be
varied
at
will
up
to
a
maximum
of
4
mm
when
the
regula
tor
knob
is
set
at
dial
marking
“4”.
Basting
stitches
Regulate
the
length
of
stitches
un
til
indicator
(21)
points
at
marking
Fig.
22.
LRIIIR1RlRlRLI1
Fig.
24.
Fig.
£5.
17
“4”.
Slightly
loosen
needle
thread
tension
by
turning
tension
regulator
knob
(II)
to
the
left.
The
machine
will
produce
a
long,
loose
stitch
which
can
be
pulled
out
readily.
Note:
The
zig-zag
regulating
knob
(24)
can
be
moved
into
any
desired
position
while
the
machine
is
opera
ting.
Do
not
turn
zig-zag
regulating
knob
when
machine
is
at
rest
and
needle
is
in
material.
1)isregard
of
this
advice
may
have
bent
or
broken
needle
as
a
consequen
ce.
Raise
needle
from
material
before
opera
ting
knob.
Starting
po
sition
for
zig
zag
sewing:
Or
dinarily
the
starting
posi
tion
knob
(18),
Fig
26
fig
26
is
set
in
the
cen
tral”
position
of
the
dial
as
seen
on
the
illustration.
With
the
knob
in
this
position,
the
machine
will
make
zig-zag
stitches
which
are
central
relative
to
the
straight
seam,
see
fig.
27.
With
the
starting
position
knob
in
the
“left”
position,
the
machine
will
produce
zig-zag
stitches
which
are
to
the
right
of
the
straight
seam,
as
shown
in
fig.
28.
Zig-zag
stitches
which
are
to
the
left
of
the
straight
seam,
as
pictured
in
fig.
29,
will
be
sewn
when
the
starting
position
knob
is
in
the
“right”
position.
Ornamental
seams
A
wide
variety
of
ornamental
scams
(fig.
30,
31>
can
be
made
by
suitable
choice
of
the
width
and
length
of
the
zig-zag
stitch
combined
with
a
properly
selected
startIng
po
sition
of
the
needle.
The
appearance
of
such
seams
can
be
further
en-
chanced
by
using
colored
thread.
In
addition
to
the
ornamental
seams
described
in
the
preceeding
chapter,
your
own
imagination
will
help
you
to
produce
many
other
plea
sing
patterns.
With
the
foot
S
15237
fig.
35
it
is
possible
to
sew
curved
seams.
They
lend
themselves
adini
raNy
to
decorating
garments,
fur
nishings,
pillows,
doilies.
etc.
Enz
broidery
(111(1
10
oriogranis
Remove
presser
foot
from
pres;er
A
bar
(fig.
32).
Lower
feed
(log
by
turning
drop
feed
button
(25)
in
accordance
with
instructions
on
page
17.
Tb
read
machi
no
with
embroidery
thread
of
a
type
intended
for
:;ewing
machines
(silk
or
niercerized
thread).
Stretch
design
to
be
embroidered
or
monogrammed
over
an
embroidery
hoop
and
place
under
needle.
Let
a
a
a
a,!!
a
a,
a
down
presser
foot
lifter.
Get
machine
started
slowly,
turning
handwheel
by
hand
for
the
first
stitch
or
so
to
bring
up
the
bobbin
(lower)
thread.
Holding
both
bobbin
and
needle
thread,
start
outlining
contour
of
design
with
fine
stitches.
(see
fig.
32,
33
and
34>.
Set
zig-zag
stitch
regulator
knob
(page
17)
to
desired
width
of
stitch
and
start
filling
in
the
design
with
rows
of
stitches.
Guide
hoop
slowly
..
J
B
Fri,.
31.
Fig.
28.
Fig.
29.
Fig.
30.
Fig.
27.
Fig.
32.
19
Darning
and
mending
Prepare
machine
for
this
work
by
removing
the
presser
foot from
the
presser
bar
(3),
attaching
instead
the
darning
presser
foot
(fig.
36).
At
the
same
time
make
sure
that
the
long
arm
on
the
darning
presser
foot
comes
behind
the cylindrical
body of
the
needle
set
screw
(6).
Drop
feed
dog
by
turning
drop
fed
wheel
(25).
Set
starting
position
knob
ving
article
bnck
and
forth
slowly.
Turn
article
and sew
further
rows
of
stitches
across
those
first
made.
Continue
sewing
until
hole
is
covered
completely.
While
small
holes
may
he
darned
by
holding
down
the
fabric
with
one’s
fingers,
the
use
of
an
embroidery
hoop
is
recommended
for
closing
lar
ger
holes.
Sewing
but
tonizoks
1.
For
the
making
of
all
types
of
buttonholes
the machine
requires
the
following
preparation:
A.
Remove
regular
presser
foot
and
install
buttonhole
oresser
f’
ct
(fig.
37).
B.
Turn
starting
position
knob
(18)
to
“left”
needle
pcsition
(page
18).
C.
Move
zig-zag
regulating
knob
(24)
to
marking
2
mm
on
dial,
a
Adjust
stitch
regulator
knob
(22),
so
that
indicator
finger
above
it
points
to
a
spot
be
tween
dial
marking
“0”
and
“1”
but
closer
to
“0”.
(‘With
stitch
regulator
in
this
setting,
machine
should
produce
closely
spaced
purl
stitches.)
B.
Adjust
gage
on
buttonhole
pres
ser
foot
(fig.
38)
to
indicate
required
length
of
buttonhole.
To
determine
this
adjustment,
measure
size
of
button
and
add
approximately
/io”
to
I,4”
The
distance
from
the
needle
of
the
machine
to
the
front
of
the
gage
should
equal
this
measurement.
F.
Thread
machine
same
as
for
ordinary
sewing
(page
13).
Tighten
thread
tension
by
tur
ning
tension
regulating
knob
(ii)
about
,4
to
turn
to
the
right
(page
18)
to
obtain
the
desired
purl
stitch
effect.
To
determine
the
appearance
of
the
buttonhole
stitch,
sew
a
row
of
purl
stitches
on
a
scrap
of
the
material
which
is
to
have
the
buttonholes.
2.
The
actual
sewing
of
the
button
hole
calls
for
this
sequence:
A.
Mark
off
length
of
buttonhole
on
garment.
B.
Place
start
of
buttonhole
under
needle
and
have
its
end
face
you.
Let
down
presser
foot
and
begin
sewing.
Stop
when
first
row
of
stitches
reaches
the
gage.
C.
Turn
handwheel
toward
you
un
til
needle
makes
another
right
hand
stitch.
Leave
needle
in
material.
What
you
have
sewn
up
to
now
should
look
like
this
diagram:
back
and
forth
under the
needle
and
operate
machine
at
an
easily
con
trollable
speed.
After
an
even
pad
ding
has
been
obtained,
cover
with
a
straight
satin
stitch
to
give
the
appearance
of
hand work.
—
1’i
Fig.
35.
Fig.
33.
(18)
at
“central”
needle
position
and
move
zig-zag
regulating
knob
(24)
to
“0”.
Use
suitable
embroidery
darning
thread
of
a
type
intended
for
sewing
machines.
Stretch article
to
be
dar
ned in
an embroidery
hoop
and
ilace
under
darning
foot.
Lower
foot
upon
the
material
close
to
the
spot
whete
turn
and
begin
sewing.
Cover
beur
with
successive rows
of
stitches
nio
Fig.
54.
Fig.
37.
Fig.
36.
Fig.
38.
needle
is
here
now.
21
D.
Raise
presser
foot
slightly
and
turn
garment
clockwise
around
the
needle.
The
diagram
below
represents
what
you
should
see
now:
I.
Lower
presser
foot
and
turn
handwheel
toward
you
until
needle
is
above
material.
E.
Turn
zig-zag
regulating
knob
(24)
to
marking
“4”
on
dial.
Make
3
to
4
stitches
to
sew
first
closing
bar
and
stop
machine
with
needle
out
of
material.
The
half
finished
buttonhole
will
have
an
appearance
as
illu
strated
on
this
diagram:
While
needle
is
out
of
fabric,
return
zig-zag
regulating
knob
(24)
to
dial
marking
“2”.
Now
sew
second
line
of
purl
stitches.
Stop
machine
with
needle
out
of
material.
Here
is
how
the
almost
finished
buttonhole
will
look:
G.
Move
zig-zag
regulating
knob
to
dial
marking
“4”
and
sew
3—4
stitches
to
complete
second
closing
bar.
The
diagram
below
pictures
what
the
finished
buttonhole
will
be
like:
H.
Turn
handwheel
toward
you
until
needle
is
out
of
ma
terial.
Move
zig-zag
regulating
knob
(24)
to
“0”
on
dial.
Turn
drop
feed
button
(25)
and
sew
2
or
3
straight
stitches
to
lock
threads.
I.
Insert
the
cutter
at
one
end
of
the
buttonhole
and
carefully
cut
material
between
the
two
rows
of
purl
stitches.
Note:
It
is
advisable
to
make
one
or
two
sample
buttonholes
on
a
scrap
of
material,
same
as
your
garment.
If
required,
make
necessary
adjustments
to
obtain
desired
results.
Corded
buttonholes
In
soft
woolens
and,
more
gene
rally,
in
all
garments
where
the
but
tonholes
are
subject
to
extensive
wear,
a
corded
buttonhole
with
gimp
inserted
is
preferable.
The
method
of
making
corded
but
tonholes
is
the
same
as
employed
in
making
plain
buttonholes,
except
that
there
is
no
need
for
a
particularly
tight
upper
(needle)
thread
tension.
It
is
recommended
that
corded
Luttonholes
be
started
from
the
in-
side
of
the
garment,
working
toward
the
edge.
The
inserted
gimp
will
then
round
that
end
of
the
buttonhole
where
the
stress
is
greatest
and
will
increase
its
durability.
Sewing
on
buttons
Raise
needle
to
highest
position
by
turning
handwheel
toward
you.
Re
move
regular
presser
foot
and
attach
button
sewing
foot
to
presser
bar
(fig.
39).
Drop
feed
dog
by
turning
drop
feed
button
(25).
Set
starting
position
knob
(18)
for
“left”
needle
position
(page
18).
Turn
zig-zag
regulating
knob
(24)
to
marking
“31/2”
on
dial.
Place
garment
with
button
under
button
sewing
foot.
Line
up
holes
in
button
with
oblong
stitch
hole
in
foot
and
lower
same.
Carefully
and
slowly
turn
handwheel
toward
you
and
check
whether
needle
passes
through
center
of
left
hole
in
button.
Continue
turning
handwheel
and
watch
needle
enter
the
right
hole
in
button.
If
needle
does
not
Jass
through
center
of
hole,
but
to
the
left,
turn
zig-zag
regulating
knob
(24)
to
the
right.
Conversely,
if
needle
should
stitch
to
the
right
of
the
hole,
turn
zig-zag
regulating
knob
(24)
to
the
left.
Having
made
certain
that
the
needle
clears
the
respective
holes
in
the
button,
sew
5.—41
stitches
at
an
easily
controllable
steed.
Stop
machine
with
needle
out
of
the
button
and
return
zig-zag
regu
lating
knob
to
dial
setting
“0”.
Make
an
additional
3
or
4
straight
stitches
in
left
hole
of
button
to
lock
threads.
When
attaching
four-hole
buttons,
first
sew
one
set
of
holes
as
described
above.
Lift
presser
foot
and
shift
gar
ment
to
get
second
set
of
holes
lined
U
for
sewing.
Lock
threads
with
3
plain
stitches,
same
as
done
with
two-
hole
buttons.
On
buttons
with
four
holes
decora
tive
designs,
such
as
pictured,
can
easily
be
sewn
by
suitable
placing
the
button
under
the
button
sewing
foot
and
by
proper
adjustment
of
the
zig-zag
stitch.
Overcasting
edge
The
edges
of
the
material
can
ea
sily
be
secured
against
fraying
by
overcasting
them
with
a
zig-zag
stitch
(fig.
40).
Use
hinged
zig-zag
presser
foot
and
set
zig-zag
regulating
knob
(24)
to
marking
“2”
on
dial.
Adjust
length
of
stitch
by
setting
stitch
regulator
index
(21)
on
marking
“2”.
Place
edge
to
be
overcast
under
presser
foot,
so
that
needle
on
its
right
stroke
just
clears
the
material.
,\Then
overcasting
loosely
woven
material,
set
both
zig-zag
and
stitch
regulators
on
respective
markings
“3
1/2”.
II
I
F
22,
Fig.
89.
N
Fig.
40.
23
Set
zig-zag
regulating
knob
(24)
on
“1%”
and
set
stitch
index
(21)
to
“1,4,’
Sew
tacks,
having
an
appea
rance
similar
to
a
buttonhole
purl
stitch,
about
44
inch
long,
across
seams
at
either
end
of
pocket.
When
tack
is
completed
and
needle
above
the
material,
return
zig-zag
regu
lating
knob
to
“0”
and,
pressing
down
drop
feed
button,
sew
2—3
stitches
to
lock
threads.
Remove
presser
foot
from
presser
bar
and
attach
narrow
hemmer
foot
(part
3035,
or
if
light
material
rather
3002).
See
fig.
42
and
43.
Set
needle
position
regulator
in
“central”
position
and
zig-zag
regu
lating
knob
on
dial
marking
“0”.
Regulate
length
of
stitch
to
corre
spond
to
the
weight
of
the
fabric
used.
a.
Prepare
fabric
by
clipping
off
corner
where
hemming
is
to
start.
Fold
over
edge
about
‘s”
for
a
length
of
2”
and
insert
this
fold
from
underneath
into
the
spiral
shaped
opening
(scroll)
at
the
tip
of
the
foot.
b.
Carefully
move
material
back
and
forth
in
scroll
until
hem
forms
itself.
Then
pull
material
toward
you
until
start
of
hem
is
just
below
the
needle.
c.
Lower
presser
foot
and
begin
sewing.
Guide
material
into
scroll
on
hemmer
foot
as
the
sewing
progresses.
I)uring
the
hemming
operation
make
sure
that
the
material
com
pletely
fills
the
scroll
on
the
hemmer
foot.
Should
the
edge
of
the
material
show
a
tendency
to
leave
the
scroll,
guide
it
more
to
the
right.
if
too
much
material
is
fed
into
the
scroll,
it
must
be
guided
to
the
left
to
avoid
crowding
or
doubling
over.
Instead
of
straight
stitches
a
zig
zag
stitch
can
also
be
used
to
obtain
narrow
rolled
edges
(with
the
foot
S-i
5236).
Turn
zig-zag
regulating
knob
(24)
to
“3”
and
proceed
as
out
lined
above.
See
fig.
44.
Shell
stitching
install
hemmer
foot
S-15240
(fig.
45)
on
presser
bar
of
machine
to
produce
this
kind
of
stitch.
‘I’he
stitch
is
most
appropriate
for
use
on
light
weight
fabrics,
such
as
silk,
rayon
or
nylon.
The
instruction
given
for
“narrow
hemming”,
page
24,
should
be
followed
with
the
ex
ception
that
zig-zag
regulating
knob
(24)
is
to
be
set
at
dial
marking
“4”
and
the
tension
of
the
upper
(needle)
thread
is
to
be
increased
to
obtain
the
shell
stitch
effect.
Also
use
a
rather
long
stitch
to
give
the
indi
vidual
“shells”
a
wide
spacing.
Zig-zag
Jmciiiniing
For
sewing
a
hem,
as
shown
on
fig.
46,
hemmer
foot
3035
is
used.
Install
this
foot
on
presser
bar
of
machine
and
make
all
adjustments
as
outlined
under
the
heading
“nar
row
hemming”.
Set
starting
position
knob
to
the
right
and
zig-zag
regu
lating
knob
(23)
on
“3”.
The
appea
rance
of
the
zig-zag
seam
can
be
enhanced
by
using
thread
of
a
diffe
rent
color.
Incidentally,
this
hemmer
can
also
be
used
for
straight
stitch
hemming.
By
folding
the
material
and
ad
justing
the
machine
as
described
Making
bar
tacks
Bar
tacks
(fig.
41),
such
as
used
for
reinforcing
the
ends
of
pockets,
etc.,
can
be
made
after
adjusting
the
machine
as
follows
Fig.
41.
Narrow
heuLming
—
rolled
edges
Fig.
42.
Fig.
44.
Fig.
46.
Fig.
45.
BlindstitclLing
23
below,
a
blind
hem
can
be
produced
without
the
use of
any
attachment.
a.
Prepare
and
baste
hem
in
same
way
as
for
hand
hemming
and
turn
garment
inside
out.
b.
Again
fold
over
hem
with
right
slides
of
material
facing
each
other.
Let
seam
binding
project
1
A”
beyond
the
edge
of
fold.
c.
Set
zig-zag
regulating
knob
(23>
at
dial
marking
4
and
set
length
of
stitch
likewise
4
—
loosen
upper
thread
tension.
d.
Place
material
under
presser
foot
of
machine,
so
that
needle
stitches
alternately
into
edge
of
fold
and
into
seam
binding.
Be
sure
that
when
stitching
into
edge
of
fold
needle
barely
cat
ches
material
(1
or
2
threads),
so
as
to
make
the
stitch
as
in
visible
as
possible.
(See
fig.
47.)
1.
Lay
two
pieces
of
cloth
one
on
top
of
the
other
with
their
right
sides
facing
each
other.
The
right
edge
of
the
bottom
piece
must
extend
about
‘/s”
beyond
the
right
edge
of
the
top
piece.
See
fig.
48.
2.
Sew
both
pieces
of
cloth
together,
using
the
hemmer
foot
like
a
regular
presser
foot.
Use
the
right
edge
of
long
toe
of
hemmer
foot
to
guide
the
bottom
piece
of
material,
while
the
left
edge
of
the
same
toe
serves
as
a
guide
for
the
top
piece
of
material.
Fig.
39
shows
this
detail.
3.
Open
and
spread
out
material
and
put
back
on
machine
right
sides
downward.
Make
sewn
edges
of
ma
terial
stand
up.
4.
Fold
over
the
edges
to
the
left
and
insert
them
into
the
scroll
of
the
hemmer
foot.
Sew
as
you
would
(10
ordinary
hemming.
Use
left
edge
of
long
toe
of
hemmer
foot
as
guide,
having
original
seam
run
alongside
of
it.
Quilting
with
quilting
guide:
Insert
quil
ting
guide
from
right
to
left
or
from
left
to
right
through
hole
in
presser
bar
just
above
shank
of
presser
foot.
From
the
rear
turn
knurled
thumb
screw
into
screw
hole
in
presser
bar.
Slide
quilting
guide
in
or
out
and
set
it
to
the
desired
distance
from
the
needle.
Using
either
straight
or
zig-zag
stitch,
sew
first
line.
To
sew
subse
quent
parallel
lines,
move
fabric
to
right
until
curved
bottom
of
quil
ting
guide
is
right
above
preceding
row
or
stitches.
(Fig.
50
and
51.)
Passing
of
the
material
along
the
adjustable
guide
will
permit
stit
ching
parallel
to
an
edge,
such
as
pictured
on
fig.
52.
Fig.
53
shows
sewing
a cord,
54
sewing
a
spring,
55
sewing
attaching
zippers.
Cording
and
braiding
Remove
zig-zag
presser
foot
from
machine
and
attach
presser
foot
with
cord
hole
S-15232
shown
on
fig.
56.
Introduce
cord
or
gimp
from
front
in
cord
hole
and
draw
about
2—3
inches
past
foot.
Set
starting
posi
tion
knob
(18),
in
central
position.
Adjust
zig-zag
regulating
knob
(24),
Fig.
50.
Fig.
55.
Felled
seams
The
hemmer
feet
can
also
be
used
for
doing
felling.
Proceed
in
the
fol
iowing
manner:
Fig.
51.
Cloth
guide
Fig.
48.
Fig.
56.
Fig.
52.
27
so
that
needle
stitches
into
ma
terial
at
either
side
of cord.
Re
gulate
length
of
stitches,
so
that
they
become
closely
space(1.
When
braiding
make
widely
spaced
stitches
to
leave
the
cord visible.
For
soutage
(fig.
57)
embroidery
andbraiding
use
zig-zag
presser
foot
for
zig-zag
or
straight
stitches.
Attaching
lace
edging
Set
starting
position
knob
(18),
in
“central”
position.
Regulate
width
of
zig-zag
and
length
of
stitch
to
suit
the
particular
kind
of
fabric
on
which
you
are
sewing.
Turn
cut
edge
of
material
under
a
trifle
more
than
I’lace
edge
of
lace
closely
against
fold
of
ma
terial
which
should
he
centered
un(ler
presser
foot.
Lower
presser
foot
and
start
sewing,
making
sue
that
needle
stitches
alternately
into
ma
terial
and
lace.
Trim
turned-under
edge
close
to
zig-zag
stitches.
(See
fig.
58.)
Lace
insertions
Prepare
machine
in
same
way
as
for
attaching
lace.
Baste
lace
inser
tion
onto
right
side
of
material.
Using
fine
needle
and
thin
thread,
follow
edge
of
insertions
with
short
and
narrow
zig-zag
stitches.
Be
sure
that
needle
stitches
alternately
into
material
and
into
lace
insertion.
After
insertion
is
completely
attach
ed,
turn
material
over
and
trim
to
about
‘/“
from
edge.
Roll
back
trim
med
edge
an(l
stitch
it
down
with
short,
straight
stitches.
Applique
Flowers,
initials
and
other
decora
tions
can
effectively
be
appliqueed
onto
table
cloths,
pillows,
bedth
rows
and
garments
by
first
basting
onto
the
article
a
piece
of
material
on
which
the
desired
design
has
been
outlined.
Adjust
machine
to
sew
closely
spaced
zig-zag
stitches
of
about
/io”
to
I.2”
width
and
place
article
un
der
the
presser
foot.
Align
edge
of
design
with
center
of
presser
foot.
Start
sewing,
following
the
contour
of
the
design.
(Se
fig.
59
and
60.)
Rug
making
(Ryn-technique)
When
making
rugs
on
the
sewing
machine,
a
so
called
weaver’s
reed
is
used,
which
is
provided
with
a
slot
in
the
blade
and
a
loop
for
locking
the
narrow
part
of
the
reed
after
the
wool
has
been
wound
around
it.
Squared
canvas
or
juste
should
be
used
as
foundation.
The
wool
should
be
wound
a
few
turns
around
the
reed,
but
not
too
tight.
The
presser
foot
is
lowered,
and
stitching
takes
place
backwards
and
forwards
over
the
wool
through
the
slot
in
the
reed.
After
this
has
been
(lone,
the
loop
is
unclasped,
the
reed
is
pushed
forward
and
more
wool
is
wound
on
it.
When
the
wool
has
been
sewn
on
for
the
whole
length
of
the
reed
it
should
be
cut
with
a
pair
of
scissors
without,
how
ever,
removing
the
work
from
the
machine.
The
sewing
then
continues,
row
upon
row,
until
the
required
design
is
finished,
when
the
threads
are
secured
with
stitching
backwards
and
forwards.
(See
fig.
61.)
Jlemstiiching
Draw
the
desired
number
of
threads
from
the
material,
as
is
customary
when
hemstitching
by
hand.
Prepare
machine
by
adjusting
length
of
stitch
to
suit
the
weight
of
the
material.
Use
short
stitches
when
sewing
batiste,
cottons,
etc.
When
hemstitching
coarser
material,
use
a
correspondingly
larger
stitch.
Set
zig-zag
regulating
knob
(24)
to
dial
marking
“1”.
Starting
position
knob
(18)
remains
in
the
“central”
position.
Place
material
under
presser
foot
and
sew
along
one
edge
where
the
threads
have
been
drawn.
Be
sure
that
needle
stitches
alternately
into
the
solid
material
and
into
the
space
where
the
threads
have
been
pulled.
Upon
completion
of
one
edge,
follow
the
same
method
to
stitch
the
other
edge.
By
cutting
along
the
center
of
the
hemstitching,
a
PICOT
(fig.
62)
edge
can
be
obtained.
Fig.
57.
Fig.
61.
Fig.
60.
Fig.
58.
28
Fig.
59.
29
Another
method
of
producing
a
picot
edge
is
to
turn
over
the
cut
edge
of
the
material
and
to
sew
along
the
fold
with
the
needle
stitching
alternately
inside
and
outside
the
goods.
Set
length
of
stitch
to
mar
king
“1%”
and
turn
zig-zag
regula
ting
knob
to
dial
marking
“2”.
Carefully
turn
handwheel
and
check
if
needle
passes
through
center
of
needle
hole
in
ruffler
foot.
(See
fig.
63.)
5.
Description
of
ruffler:
A
—
FOOT
which
is
attached
to
presser
bar.
B
—
FORM
ARM
must
he
jda
ced
astride
the
needle
clamp.
C
—
ADJUSTING
SCREW.
Holds
fullness
of
gathers
or
plaits.
D
—
PROJECTION.
Fits
through
slots
in
adjusting
lever.
E
—
ADJUSTING
LEVER.
Used
to
set
the
ruffler
for
ga
thers
or
plaits.
F
—
POINTER.
Determines
size
of
plait
or
fullness
of
ga
thers.
Operation
of
the
ruffler
The
ruffler,
included
with
the
at
tachments
of
the
machine,
will
be
found
a
convenient
device
for
doing
all
kinds
of
ruffling,
plaiting
and
gathering.
To
operate
the
ruffler,
follow
this
procedure:
a.
Attaching
the
ruffler:
Turn
handwheel
toward
you
until
needle
is
at
highest
position.
Remove
pres
ser
foot
and
also
presser
foot
thumb
screw.
Slip
fork
arm
“B”
of
ruffler
(fig.
63)
over
needle
set
screw
(6)
extending
from
the
needle
clamp
(5)
tothe
right.
At
the
same
time
enter
foot
“A”
on
presser
bar
(3).
Rein
sert
presser
foot
thumb
screw
and
tighten.
Ascertain
that
starting
po
sition
knob
(18)
is
set
at
the
“cen
tral”
position
and
that
zig-zag
regu
lating
knob
(24)
is
turned
to
“0”.
G
—
SEAM
GUIDES.
On
ruffler
separator.
H
—
RUFFLING
BLAI)E.
The
upper
blue
steel
blade
with
teeth
at
end.
J
—
SEPARATOR.
The
lower
blue
steel
blade
which
pre
vents
feed
blade
contacting
feed
of
machine.
K
—
DIAL
has
numbers
from
1
to
8
which
aid
in
setting
fullness
of
ruffle.
L
—
HEADING
GUIDE
can
be
adjusted
for
different
size
headings.
M
—
LIP
which
separates
seam
guides.
N
—
SLIDING
GUIDE
can
be
adjusted
for
different
width
seams
or
headings.
Line
1
—
is
under
the
ruffler
and
in(licates
the
position
for
the
garment
to
which
ruffle
is
to
be
stitched
giving
a
4
inch
seam.
Line
2
—
between
the
blue
blades
where
the
feed
blade
will
gather
or
plait
ma
terial
with
a
inch
seam.
Line
3
—
the
upper
l)iece
of
ma
terial
used
when
ruffle
is
enclosed
between
two
pieces
of
material.
Line
4
—
Guide
for
piping
strip.
Line
5
—
for
edgestitching
ma
terial
to
ruffle
that
is
entered
from
right.
c.
Gathering
a
ruffle:
The
ruffler
will
make
ruffling
and
plaiting
in
uniformfullness
or,
with
simple
adjustment,
can
be
made
to
vary
fullness
of
ruffle
and
accom
plish
grouping
of
plaits
or
gathers
without
removing
ruffler
from
ma
chine.
Fig.
62.
Fig.
63.
Fig.
64.
30
31
Slot
1
on
adjusting
lever
“E” must
always
be
over
projection
“D”
for
gathers,
as
shown
in
fig.
Place
material
to
be
gathered
be
twen
the
blue
blades
of
the
ruffler
following
line
2.
Push
forward
until
material
is
under
the
needle,
lower
presser
bar
and
be
ready
to
stitch.
To
make
a
scant
gather,
put
slot
1
on
adjusting
lever
“E”
over
projec
tion
“D”.
Loosen
adjusting
screw
“C”
and
set
pointer
“F”
at
figure
1
or
2
on
dial
“K”.
Tighten
the
ad
justing
screw
“C”
securely
and
test
fullness
of
gathers.
By
getting
pointer
“F”
at
diffe
rent
numbers,
and
changing
the
length
of
machine
stitch,
a
variation
from
a
scant
to
a
full
ruffle
will
result.
d.
Plaiting
a
ruffle:
The
widest
plait
is
obtained
when
pointer
“F”
on
dial
“K”
is
as
far
forward
as
possibla,
away
from
you,
number
8
on
dial
“K”.
The
set
ruffler
for
plaiting,
loosen
adjusting
screw
“C”
and
set
pointer
“F”
at
8
on
dial
“K”.
Tighten
ad
justing
screw
“C”
securely.
Plaits
can
be
stitched
close,
or
far
apart,
by
placing
slot
6
or
12
in
adjusting
lever
“E”
over
projection
“fl”.
For
plaits
set
close
together,
place
slot
6
over
projection
“D”.
Place
slot
12
over
projection
“I)”
for
plaits
stitched
farther
apart.
Chang
ing the
stitch
length
on
sewing
ma
chine
will
produce
different
spacings.
Plaits
in
groups
can
be
accom
plished
with
this
ruffler.
Set
slot
6
on
adjusting
lever
“E”
over
projec
tion
i’D”.
Stitch, making
the
number
of
plaits
desired
in
a
group.
Place
slot
with
star
on
adjusting
lever
“E”
over
projection
“D”
and
stitch
without
any
action
from
the
ruffler
until
desired
space
between
groups
is
ob
tained. Place
slot
6
on
adjusting
lever
“E”
over
projection “I)”
for
each
suecesive
group
of
plaits
and
place
slot
with
star
on
projection
“D”
for
each space.
e.
Gathering
material
and
sewing
it
to
garment:
To
gather
and
sew
a
ruffle
to
a
garment
in
one
operation,
place
ma
terial
to
be
ruffled
between
the
blued
blades
of
the
ruffler
fallowing
line
2
and
place
garment
to
which
ruffle
is
to
be
applied
under
the
ruffler
following
line
1.
To
add
a
facing
at
the
same
time,
place
the
facing
on
top
of
the
blued
blades
following
line
3.
To
pipe
and
enclose
ruffle
in
facing,
place edge
of
facing
under
ruffler
from
left
following
line
1.
Enter
ruffle
to
be
gathered
between
blue
blades
following
line
2.
Cut
a
decided
point
in
piping
that
has
been
folded
and
cut
inch
wide
and
enter
it
in
piping
guide
“H” with
fold
of
piping
toward
the
left.
Place
garment
over
all,
guiding
its
seam
edge
along
the
slide
of
ruffler.
Turn
facing
to
the
wrong
side
and
fasten
to
garment.
Sewing
with
twin-needle
1.
The
twin-needle
number
width
2
as
standard
attachment.
(Twin
needles
of
other
dimensions
are
avai
lable
at
extra
cost.)
When
adapted
for
two-needle
sew
ing,
the
Class
20,
in
addition
to
all
possible
straight
and
zig-zag
stit
ching,
will
produce
a
variety
of
de
corative
plain
or
raised
seams
which
lend
themselves
magnificently
to
use
on
dresses,
linens,
lingerie
and
other
items.
Threading
the
machine
for
twin-
needle
sewing:
To
thread
machine
for
two-needle
operation
follow
the
instructions
on
page
13.
Note,
how
ever,
that
two
spools
of
thread
are
required.
Pass
each
thread
through
its
own
individual
hole
in
the
take-
up
lever
(13).
Run
threads
downward
through
the
guides
and
thread
the
needles
from
front
to
back.
Twin-needle
distance:
The
distance
between
twin-needles
can
be
varied
from
2
mm
to
4
mm.
When
sewing
thin
material,
use
twin-needle
with
distance
2
mm.
On
heavier
goods
use
twin-needle
with
greater
needle
di
stance.
Sewing
“straw”
folds
(raised
seam)
with
the
twin-needle
a.
Width
and
height
of
the
“straw”
folds
depend
primarily
on
the
ma
terial
used.
Of
course,
they
are
also
subject
to
style
and
individual
taste.
It
is,
therefore,
recommended
that
a
sample
be
made
on
a
scrap
of
the
same
fabric
before
working
on
a
garment.
Furthermore,
if
the
“straw”
folds
are
to
be
made
in
different
directions,
this
should
also
be
tried.
The
grain
of
some
types
of
material
will
not
allow
the
sewing
of
folds
across
or
on
a
bias.
For
wider
raised
seams
use
attachment
for
raised
seam
shown
in
fig.
67.
Thin
dressgoods
—
use
size
70
needles
closest
needle
distance
1,8
nun.
Upper
and
lower
thread
ten
sions
should
be
quite
tight.
Use
pres
ser
foot
with
three
narrow
groves
at
bottom.
Fig.
67.
Fig.
65.
Fig.
66.
Fig.
68.
33
Heavier
dress
goods
—
use
size
100
needles,
3
or
4
mm
needle
di8tance.
Maintain
normal
thread
tensions.
Use
presser
foot
with
3
grooves
(fig.
68),
Light
woolens
—
use
size
80
need
les
needle
distance
to
suit
weight
of
fabric.
Maintain
normal
upper
and
lower
thread
tensions.
Use
presser
foot
with
three
narrow
grooves.
presser
foot
shown
in
fig.
69
can
be
used
as
guides
to
sew
a
parallel
fold
to
one
already
made.
Let
the
preceding
fold
“ride”
in
one
of
the
grooves
depending
on
the
desired
spacing
and
a
whole
group
of
folds
can
be
spaced
exactly
alike
(fig.
70).
Should
a
wider
spacing
of
the
folds
be
required
than
is
possible
with
this
presser
foot,
the
quilting
guide
(fig.
71)
may
be
used.
This
guide
is
inserted
through
a
hole
in
the
presser
bar
about
the
presser
foot
shank
and
held
in
place
by
a
knurled
thumb
screw
which
screws
into
the
presser
bar
from
the
rear.
c.
Sewing
corners
and
angles:
Leave
the
needles
in
the
material
and
turn
the
material
in
the
desired
direction.
Needles
should
preferably
be
on
the
upward
stroke.
When
acute
angles
are
to
be
sewn,
it
is
advisable
to
first
turn
the
material
halfway,
then
make
a
single
stitch
and
finally
turn
the
material
in
the
selected
di
rection.
Be
sure
at
all
times
to
use
the
needles
as
pivots
and
to
leave
them
in
the
fabric.
d.
Sewing
curved
seams:
Ti
sew
raised
double
seams,
pin
pleats
or
“straw”
folds
in
figures
or
curves,
install
the
presser
foot
on
the
prsser
bar
of
the
machine.
e.
Sewing
raised
seams
with
cord
insertion:
Attach
to
presser
bar
the
two
needle
presser
foot
with
one
wide
groove.
Furthermore
the
raised
seam
attachment,
shown
in
fig.
72
must
be
attached
to
the
needle
plate.
Insert
cord
from
front
in
hole
of
raised
seam
attachment.
Place
ma
terial
under
presser
foot
and
when
sewing
a
firm
raised
seam
will
ap
pear.
Sewing
in
curves
a
beautiful
fancy
stitching
can
be
done.
2.
Eyelet
embroidery
attachment
With
the
aid
of
the
eyelet
embroi
dery
attachment,
the
Class
20
permits
the
sewing
of
eyelets
for
embroidery,
belts
or
lacing
(fig.
73).
Eyelets
can
be
made
on
nearly
all
types
of
fabric,
those
tightly
woven
and
not
excessively
heavy
being
pre
ferable.
The
thread
for
sewing
eyelets
should
be
selected
corresponding
to
the
kind
of
material
used.
For
sewing
eyelets
prepare
ma
chine
and
work
as
follows:
a.
Remove
presser
foot
from
pres
ser
foot
bar.
b.
Select
eyelet
embroidery
cover
plate
with
center
stud
matching
the
desired
size
of
eyelet
(¼”,
or
14”
diameter,
fig.
74)
and
place
it
on
the
needle
plate.
c.
Set
starting
position
knob
(18)
to
“left”
needle
position.
Turn
handwheel
of
machine
toward
you,
making
sure
that
needle
passes
through
center
of
stud
in
cover
plate.
d.
Adjust
zig-zag
regulating
knob
(24)
to
marking
“3”
On
(hal.
Needle,
on
right
hand
stitch,
should
enter
material
well
past
the
edge
of
hole.
e.
Stretch
material
tightly
over
an
embroidery
hoop
and
cut
holes
with
scissors,
a
bodkin
or
sti
letto
in
material
where
marked.
Holes
should
be
made
small
enough
to
fit
snugly
over
the
center
stud
of
the
respective
cover
plates,
as
this
will
pro
duce
better
looking
and
more
uniform
eyelet
embroidery.
Fig.
71.
Fig.
72
Fig.
69.
Woolen
suiting
and
coat
material
—
use
size
100
needles
wide
needle
distance
4
mm.
Maintain
normal
up
per
and
lower
thread
tensions.
Use
presser
foot
with
wide
single
groove
at
underside.
b.
Parallel
“straw”
folds:
The
three
grooves
at
the
bottom
of
the
Fig.
74.
Fig.
70.
Fig.
73.
34
35
Oiling
and
cleaning
the
machine
1.
Adjust
thread
tensions
by
slightly
loosening
the
tension
of
the
needle
(upper)
thread.
Increase
somewhat
the
tension
of
the
bobbin
(lower)
thread
to
obtain
a
desirable
appearance
of
the
eyelet
embroidery.
g.
Place
the
hole
in
material
over
center
stud
on
cover
plate.
Turn
handwheel
toward
you
o
pick
up the
bobbin
thread,
hold
it
and
the
needle
thread
down
into
the
cloth
when
making
the
first
few
stitches.
h.
Start
sewing,
turning
the
em
broidery
hoop
two
to
three
times
slowly
and
uniformly
clockwise
around
the
center
stud
in
the
cover
plate.
To
lock
the
threads
of
the
embroidered
eyelet,
re
turn
zig-zag
regulating
knob
to
“0”
and
sew
once
around with
straight
stitches.
1.
Even
out
the
complete
eyelet
by
turning
a
bodkin
(stiletto)
in
it
a
few
times.
Shirring
and
gathering
Ordinary
gathering
is
done
with
the
zig-zag
presser
foot
or
the
pres
ser
foot
for
straight
sewing
(fig.
75).
In
order
to
get
even
and
attractive
gathers:
1.
Loosen
the
tension
on
the
upper
thread
slightly,
2.
Adjust
the
length
of
stitch
to
suit
the
material,
3.
Stitch
two
or
three
rows
with
even
spacing
following
inner
guide
or
right
edge
of
the
zig
zag
presser
foot,
4,
Then
pull
the
under
threads
while
easing
the
material
into
gathers.
5.
When
attaching
gathers
the
gathered
material
is
sewn
on
along
one
of
the
gathering
threads.
6.
In
order
to
ensure
even
spacing
between
gathering
threads
use
the
straight-guide.
Gathering
with
shirring
foot
Shirring
and
gathering
can
also
be
done
conveniently with
the
shirr
ing
foot.
To
do
shirring
and
gathering,
re
move
the
regular
presser
foot
from
the
presser
bar
and
install
the
spe
cial
shirring
foot
(fig.
76).
Be
sure
to
set
starting
position
knob
(3)
at
“central”
position
and
to
turn
zig-zag
regulating
knob
(23)
to
marking
“0”
on
dial
before
start
ing
to
sew.
To
obtain
maximum
fulness
of
the
gathers
adjust
machine
to
make
long
stitches
and
slightly
tighten
the
up
per
(needle)
thread
tension.
Class
20
Sewing
Machine,
like
any
precision
made
piece
of
machinery,
will
always
retain
its
smooth
and
silent
operating
qualities
if
it
is
pro
perly
attended
to
and
oiled
regularly.
The
arrows
on
fig.
77
above
indi
cate
those
oil
holes
on
top
of
the
machine
which
require
weekly
of
a
good
grade
of
sewinq
machine
oil.
Should
the
machine
be
used
at
less
frequent
intervals,
it
must
be
oiled
before
starting
to
work.
Do
not
oil
machine
excessively,
as
the
oil
will
run
off
and
soil
the
material.
Fig
78
showa
the
oil
holes
and
spots
to
be
lubricated
when
the
ann-
door
has
been
opened.
Turn
the
arm
back
cover
and
give
a
drop
of
oil
on
the
places
shown
in
fig.
79.
After
the
machine
has
been
oiled,
wipe
its
top
surfaces
and
sew
a
length
of
seam
on
a
scrap
of
ma-i.
Fig.
75.
Fig.
77.
Fig.
76.
Fig.
78.
36
37
terlal
to
make
sure
that
the
machine
sews
without
soiling.
To
clean
machine,
open
face
door
and
needle
plate.
Using
the
small
Causes
of
the
most
common
sew
ing
machine
troubles
and
their
remedies
Hard
running
of
machine:
1.
Motor
belt
too
tight
or
has
jumped
off
motor
pulley
or
hand
wheel.
2.
Machine
lubricated
with
unsui
table,
gummy
oil.
Pour
a
few
drops
of
kerosene
into
each
oil
hole
and
run
machine
for
a
few
minutes.
Then
lubricate
with
proper
sewing
machine
oil.
Machine
not
feeding
properly:
1.
Make
sure
stitch
regulator
knob
(21)
is
not
set
on
“0”.
(Refer
to
page
16
on
“Regulating
the
Length
of
Stitches”.)
2.
Feed
dog
in
dropped
position.
Raise
feed
dog
pursuant
to
in
structions
contained
in
chapter
on
“Lowering
Feed
Dog”,
page
17.
3.
Pressure
of
presser
foot
not
sufficient.
Increase
pressure
by
turning
regulator
wheel
(37)
brush
included
with
the
set
of
attach
ments,
remove
all
accumulations
of
loose
threads,
lint
and
fuzz
from the
exposed
parts
of
the
mechanism
in
the
arm
and
from
the
teeth
of
the
feed
dog.
clockwise
after
opening the
face
door.
Also
see
“Regulating
the
Pressure
of
the
Presser
Foot”
on
page
14.
Irregular
winding
of
bobbin:
1.
Machine
not
threaded
correctly
for
winding.
2.
Thread
jumped
out
of
tension
device,
fig.
13,
page
15.
3.
Tension
device
not
in
correct
position.
Adjust
following
in
struction
on
page
17.
Needle
thread
breaks:
1.
Needle
inserted
incorrectly
(re
fer
to
page
ii).
2.
Needle
not
thread
properly
(page
13).
3.
Tension
of
needle
thread
too
tight.
4.
Knots
in
thread.
5.
Needle
too
fine
for
thread
used.
Check
chart
on
page
10.
6.
Needle
bent
of
needle
point
broken.
Change
needle.
7.
Stitch
hole
in
needle
plate
rough
or
sharp.
Repair
or
replace.
8.
Point
of
rotary
sewing
hook
damaged.
Have
it
repaired
and
repolished.
Bobbin
thread
breaks:
1.
Bobbin
case
not
inserted
cor
rectly
(page
13).
2.
Bobbin
thread
too
tight
(see
page
17).
3.
Bobbin
wound
unevenly.
4.
Bobbin
wound
too
fully.
5.
Poor
thread.
6.
Stitch
hole
in
needle
plate
rough
or
sharp.
Repair
or
re
place
needle
plate.
Bobbin
thread
cannot
be
pulled
up:
1.
Needle
is
inserted
incorrectly
(page
11).
Needle
breaks:
1.
Needle
bent.
Insert
new
needle.
2.
Pulling
material
from
behind
needle
while
sewing.
(Do
not
help
machine
feed
material.)
Skipping
stitches:
1.
Needle
bent
or
blunt.
Insert
new
needle.
2.
Needle
inserted
incorrectly.
Re
fer
to
page
ii.
3.
Needle
threaded
improperly.
See
page
13.
4.
Wrong
size
of
needle
used.
5.
Thread
too
heavy
for
needle.
6.
Pressure
of
presser
foot
insuf
ficient,
especially
when
sewing
on
heavy
material.
See
page
14.
Loose
stitches
—
loops
on
underside
of
material:
I.
Machine
not
threaded
correctly.
2.
Presser
foot
not
let
down
com
pletely.
3.
Insufficient
tension
of
needle
thread.
See
page
16.
4.
Thread
take-up
spring
(12),
fig.
1,
bent
or
broken.
Repair
or
replace.
Poor
stitches
—
bad
looking
seam:
1.
Thread
wound
unevenly
on
bob
bin.
See
page
11.
2.
Upper
thread
tension
too
tight
or
too
loose.
See
page
16.
3.
Bobbin
thread
too
coarse.
Should
be
same
as
needle
thread
or
even
somewhat
finer.
Refer
to
Needle
and
Thread
Selector”,
page
10.
4.
Needle
thread
too
coarse
for
material.
3.
Needle
not
suited
for
material.
6.
Needle
point
damaged.
Uneven
thread
tension:
1.
Poor
quality
of
thread.
Wrinkling
of
material:
1.
Needle
thread
tension
too
tight.
2.
Needle
and
bobbin
thread
ten
sions
too
tight
for
material
used.
3.
Presser
foot
pressure
too
great.
Turn
regulator
bushing
(°2)
to
left
(fig.
18).
Stitches
of
varying
lengths:
1.
Feed
dog
is
clogged
with
lint.
Clean
it
out.
2.
Worn
teeth
in
feed
dog.
Replace
feed
dog.
Loosely
stitched
seams:
1.
Upper
(needle
)and
lower
(bob
bin)
thread
tensions
too
loose.
See
page
16.
Cloth
is
chewed
up:
1.
Pressure
on
presser
foot
too
tight.
See
page
14.
Important
note
1)o
not
try
to
repair
the
machine
yourself
if
it
fails
to
operate
satis
factorily
after
having
followed
the
abovementioned
suggestions.
Only
your
class
20
dealer,
by
virtue
of
his
skill
and
experience,
is
qualified
to
service
your
machine
competently
and
is
able
to
maintain
its
outstanding
performance.
Fig.
79.
88
39
… 13 …

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