Handleiding DeWalt DHS780 (pagina 17 van 20) (Engels)

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saw is attached to, such as a table or workbench. When making a cut that may become

unbalanced, properly support the workpiece and ensure the saw is firmly bolted to a

stable surface. Personal injury mayoccur.

WARNING: The clamp foot must remain clamped above the base of the saw whenever

the clamp is used. Always clamp the workpiece to the base of the saw – not to any other

part of the work area. Ensure the clamp foot is not clamped on the edge of the base of

thesaw.

CAUTION: Always use a work clamp to maintain control and reduce the risk of personal

injury and workpiecedamage.

Use the material clamp provided with your saw. The left or right fence will slide from side to

side to aid in clamping. Other aids such as spring clamps, bar clamps or C-clamps may be

appropriate for certain sizes and shapes ofmaterial.

To Install Clamp

1. Insert it into the hole29 behind the fence. The clamp should be facing toward the back of

the mitre saw. The groove on the clamp rod should be fully inserted into the base. Ensure

this groove is fully inserted into the base of the mitre saw. If the groove is visible, the

clamp will not besecure.

2. Rotate the clamp 180° toward the front of the mitresaw.

3. Loosen the knob to adjust the clamp up or down, then use the fine adjust knob to firmly

clamp theworkpiece.

NOTE: Place the clamp on the opposite side of the base when beveling. ALWAYS MAKE DRY

RUNS (UNPOWERED) BEFORE FINISH CUTS TO CHECK THE PATH OF THE BLADE. ENSURE THE

CLAMP DOES NOT INTERFERE WITH THE ACTION OF THE SAW ORGUARDS.

Support for Long Pieces

ALWAYS SUPPORT LONGPIECES.

For best results, use the DE7023-XJ or DE7033-XJ leg stands to extend the table width of

your saw. Support long workpieces using any convenient means such as sawhorses or similar

devices to keep the ends fromdropping.

Cutting Picture Frames, Shadow Boxes and Other Four-Sided

Projects (Fig. R)

Try a few simple projects using scrap wood until you develop a “feel” for your saw. Your saw is

the perfect tool for mitring corners like the one shown in FigureR.

Sketch 1 in FigureR shows a joint made with the bevel adjustment method. The joint shown

can be made using eithermethod.

• Using bevel adjustment:

- The bevel for the two boards is adjusted to 45° each, producing a 90°corner.

- The mitre arm is locked in the zero position and the bevel adjustment is locked at 45°.

- The wood is positioned with the broad flat side against the table and the narrow edge

against thefence.

• Using mitre adjustment:

- The same cut can be made by mitring right and left with the broad surface against

thefence.

Cutting Trim Molding and Other Frames (Fig. R)

Sketch 2 in FigureR shows a joint made by setting the mitre arm at 45° to mitre the two

boards to form a 90° corner. To make this type of joint, set the bevel adjustment to zero and

the mitre arm to 45°. Once again, position the wood with the broad flat side on the table and

the narrow edge against thefence.

The two sketches in FigureR are for four-sided objects only. As the number of sides changes,

so do the mitre and bevel angles. The chart below gives the proper angles for a variety of

shapes, assuming that all sides are of equallength.

Number of Sides Mitre or Bevel Angle

445°

536°

630°

725.7°

822.5°

920°

10 18°

For a shape that is not shown in the chart, use the following formula: 180° divided by the

number of sides equals the mitre (if the material is cut vertically) or bevel angle (if the material

is cut laying flat).

Cutting Compound Mitres (Fig. Q, R, S, Z)

A compound mitre is a cut made using a mitre angle and a bevel angle at the same time.

This is the type of cut used to make frames or boxes with slanting sides like the one shown in

FigureQ.

WARNING: If the cutting angle varies from cut to cut, check that the bevel lock knob and

the mitre lock handle are securely locked. These must be locked after making any changes

in bevel ormitre.

WARNING: The saw must be fixed on a base support when performing compound cuts to

prevent tip over. Refer to Bench Mounting and Fig.Z.

The chart shown below will assist you in selecting the proper bevel and mitre settings for

common compound mitrecuts.

Your saw has a built-in dust port26 that allows you to connect the supplied dust bag or a

shop vacuum system using either the AirLock™ system (DWV9000-XJ) or a standard 35 mm

dust extractorfitment.

WARNING: ALWAYS use a vacuum extractor designed in compliance with the applicable

directives regardig dust emission when sawing wood. Vacuum hoses of most common

vacuum cleaners will fit directly into the dust extractionport.

To Attach the Dust Bag

1. Fit the dust bag to the dust port26..

To Empty the Dust Bag

1. Remove dust bag from the saw and gently shake or tap the dust bag toempty.

2. Reattach the dust bag back onto the dust port26.

You may notice that all the dust will not come free from the bag. This will not affect cutting

performance but will reduce the saw’s dust collection efficiency. To restore your saw’s dust

collection efficiency, depress the spring inside the dust bag when you are emptying it and tap

it on the side of the trash can or dust receptacle.

CAUTION: Never operate this saw unless the dust bag or D

WALT dust extractor is

in place. Wood dust may create a breathinghazard.

Basic Saw Cuts

If the slide feature is not used, ensure the saw head is pushed back as far as possible and the

rail lock knob24 is tightened. This will prevent the saw from sliding along its rails as the

workpiece isengaged.

Cutting of multiple pieces is not recommended but can be done safely by ensuring that each

piece is held firmly against the table andfence.

Straight Vertical Crosscut (Fig. A)

1. Set and lock the mitre arm at zero, and hold the wood firmly on the table and against the

fence16.

2. With the rail lock knob24 tightened, turn on the saw by squeezing the trigger switch5.

3. When the saw comes up to speed, lower the arm smoothly and slowly to cut through the

wood. Let the blade come to a full stop before raisingarm.

Sliding Crosscut (Fig. A, O)

When cutting anything larger than a 51 x 150mm (51 x 105mm at 45° mitre) workpiece, use

an out-down-back motion with the rail lock knob24loosened.

1. Pull the saw out towardyou.

2. Lower the saw head down toward theworkpiece.

3. Slowly push the saw back to complete thecut.

Do not allow the saw to contact the top of the workpiece while pulling out. The saw may run

toward you, possibly causing personal injury or damage to theworkpiece.

Mitre Crosscut (Fig. P)

The mitre angle is often 45° for making corners, but can be set anywhere from zero to 50° left

or 60° right. Proceed as for a straight verticalcrosscut.

When performing a mitre cut on workpieces wider than 51 x 105mm that are shorter in

length, always place the longer side against thefence.

Bevel Cut (Fig. A, Y2)

Bevel angles can be set from 49° right to 49° left and can be cut with the mitre arm set

between 50° left or 60° right. Refer to the Features and Controls section for detailed

instructions on the bevelsystem.

1. Loosen the bevel lock knob28, and move the saw to the left or right as desired. It is

necessary to move the fence16 to allow clearance. Tighten the fence adjustment

knob63 after positioning thefences.

2. Tighten the bevel lockfirmly.

At some extreme angles, the right or left side fence might have to be removed. Refer to Fence

Adjustment in the Adjustments section for important information on adjusting the fences

for certain bevelcuts.

To remove the left or right fence, unscrew the fence adjustment knob63 several turns and

slide the fenceout.

Grooving (Fig. A)

Your saw is equipped with a grooving stop35, depth adjustment screw34 and wing

nut33 to allow for groovecutting.

• Flip the grooving stop35 towards the front of thesaw.

• Adjust the wing nut33 and depth adjustment screw34 to set the depth of the

groovecut.

Quality of Cut

The smoothness of any cut depends on a number of variables, such as the material being cut,

blade type, blade sharpness and rate ofcut.

When smoothest cuts are desired for molding and other precision work, a sharp (60 tooth

carbide) blade and a slower, even cutting rate will produce the desiredresults.

WARNING: Ensure that the material does not move or creep while cutting; clamp it

securely in place. Always let the blade come to a full stop before raising arm. If small

fibers of wood still split out at the rear of the workpiece, stick a piece of masking tape on

the wood where the cut will be made. Saw through the tape and carefully remove tape

whenfinished.

Clamping the Workpiece

WARNING: A workpiece that is clamped, balanced and secure before a cut may become

unbalanced after a cut is completed. An unbalanced load may tip the saw or anything the

DeWalt DHS780 Handleiding

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