Handleiding Cannondale 2011 (pagina 35 van 106) (Engels)

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PART I

Shifting from an easier, “slower” gear (like 1) to

a harder, “faster” gear (like 2 or 3) is called an

upshift. Shifting from a harder, “faster” gear to

an easier, “slower” gear is called a downshift. It is

not necessary to shift gears in sequence. Instead,

ﬁnd the “starting gear” for the conditions — a gear

which is hard enough for quick acceleration but easy

enough to let you start from a stop without wobbling

— and experiment with upshifting and downshifting

to get a feel for the dierent gears. At ﬁrst, practice

shifting where there are no obstacles, hazards or

other trac, until you’ve built up your conﬁdence.

Learn to anticipate the need to shift, and shift to

a lower gear before the hill gets too steep. If you

have diculties with shifting, the problem could be

mechanical adjustment. See your dealer for help.

c. What if it won’t shift gears?

If moving the shift control one click repeatedly fails

to result in a smooth shift to the next gear chances

are that the mechanism is out of adjustment. Take

the bike to your dealer to have it adjusted.

4.E - PEDALS

1. Toe Overlap is when your toe can touch the front

wheel when you turn the handlebars to steer

while a pedal is in the forwardmost position.

This is common on small-framed bicycles, and is

avoided by keeping the inside pedal up and the

outside pedal down when making sharp turns.

This technique will also prevent the inside pedal

from striking the ground in a turn.

WARNING

TOE OVERLAP COULD CAUSE YOU TO LOSE

CONTROL AND FALL. ASK YOUR DEALER TO

HELP YOU DETERMINE IF THE COMBINATION

OF FRAME SIZE, CRANK ARM LENGTH, PEDAL

DESIGN AND SHOES YOU WILL USE RESULTS IN

PEDAL OVERLAP.

Whether you have overlap or not, you must keep

the inside pedal up and the outside pedal down

when making sharp turns.

2. Some bicycles come equipped with pedals that

have sharp and potentially dangerous surfaces.

These surfaces are designed to add safety by

increasing grip between the rider’s shoe and

the pedal. If your bicycle has this type of high-

performance pedal, you must take extra care

to avoid serious injury from the pedals’ sharp

surfaces. Based on your riding style or skill level,

you may prefer a less aggressive pedal design,

or chose to ride with shin pads. Your dealer can

show you a number of options and make suitable

recommendations.

3. Toeclips and straps are a means to keep feet

correctly positioned and engaged with the

pedals. The toeclip positions the ball of the foot

over the pedal spindle, which gives maximum

pedaling power. The toe strap, when tightened,

keeps the foot engaged throughout the rotation

cycle of the pedal. While toeclips and straps give

some beneﬁt with any kind of shoe, they work

most eectively with cycling shoes designed

for use with toeclips. Your dealer can explain

how toeclips and straps work. Shoes with deep

treaded soles or welts which might allow the foot

to be trapped should not be used with toeclips

and straps.

WARNING

GETTING INTO AND OUT OF PEDALS WITH

TOECLIPS AND STRAPS REQUIRES SKILL

WHICH CAN ONLY BE ACQUIRED WITH

PRACTICE.

Until it becomes a reﬂex action, the technique

requires concentration which can distract your

attention and cause you to lose control and fall.

Practice the use of toeclips and straps where

there are no obstacles, hazards or trac. Keep

the straps loose, and don’t tighten them until

your technique and conﬁdence in getting in and

out of the pedals warrants it. Never ride in trac

with your toe straps tight.

4. Clipless pedals (sometimes called “step-in

pedals”) are another means to keep feet securely

in the correct position for maximum pedaling

eciency. They have a plate, called a “cleat,” on

the sole of the shoe, which clicks into a mating

spring-loaded ﬁxture on the pedal.

(continued on next page...)

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