525941

Brother XR9500PRW Handleiding

78
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Please visit us at http://solutions.brother.com where you can get product support
and answers to frequently asked questions (FAQs).
KNOWING YOUR
SEWING MACHINE
SEWING BASICS
VARIOUS STITCHES
APPENDIX
INTRODUCTION
Thank you for purchasing this sewing machine. Before using this machine, carefully read the "IMPORTANT
SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS", and then study this manual for the correct operation of the various functions. In
addition, after you have finished reading this manual, store it where it can quickly be accessed for future
reference.
Please read these safety instructions before attempting to use the machine.
DANGER - To reduce the risk of electric shock:
1Always unplug the machine from the electrical outlet immediately after using, when cleaning,
when making any user servicing adjustments mentioned in this manual, or if you are leaving the
machine unattended.
WARNING - To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock, or injury to persons.
2Always unplug the machine from the electrical outlet when making any adjustments mentioned
in the instruction manual:
•
•
•
To unplug the machine, switch the machine to the symbol “O” position to turn it off, then grasp
the plug and pull it out of the electrical outlet. Do not pull on the cord.
Plug the machine directly into the electrical outlet. Do not use an extension cord.
Always unplug your machine if the power is cut.
3 Never operate this machine if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly, if it has
been dropped or damaged, or water is spilled on the unit. Return the machine to the nearest
authorized dealer or service center for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment.
While the machine is stored or in use if you notice anything unusual, such as an odor, heat,
discoloration or deformation, stop using the machine immediately and unplug the power cord.
When transporting the sewing machine, be sure to carry it by its handle. Lifting the sewing
machine by any other part may damage the machine or result in the machine falling, which could
cause injuries.
When lifting the sewing machine, be careful not to make any sudden or careless movements,
otherwise you may injure your back or knees.
IMPORTANT SAFETY
INSTRUCTIONS
1
4 Always keep your work area clear:
• Never operate the machine with any air openings blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the
sewing machine and foot control free from the build up of lint, dust, and loose cloth.
• Do not store objects on the foot controller.
• Do not use extension cords. Plug the machine directly into the electrical outlet.
• Never drop or insert any object into any opening.
• Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being
administered.
• Do not use the machine near a heat source, such as a stove or iron; otherwise, the machine,
power cord or garment being sewn may ignite, resulting in fire or an electric shock.
• Do not place this sewing machine on an unstable surface, such as an unsteady or slanted table,
otherwise the sewing machine may fall, resulting in injuries.
5 Special care is required when sewing:
• Always pay close attention to the needle. Do not use bent or damaged needles.
• Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the machine needle.
• Switch the sewing machine to the symbol “O” position to turn it off when making any adjustments
in the needle area.
• Do not use a damaged or incorrect needle plate, as it could cause the needle to break.
• Do not push or pull the fabric when sewing, and follow careful instruction when freehand stitching
so that you do not deflect the needle and cause it to break.
6 This machine is not a toy:
• Your close attention is necessary when the machine is used by or near children.
• The plastic bag that this sewing machine was supplied in should be kept out of the reach of
children or disposed of. Never allow children to play with the bag due to the danger of
suffocation.
• Do not use outdoors.
7 For a longer service life:
• When storing this machine, avoid direct sunlight and high humidity locations. Do not use or store
the machine near a space heater, iron, halogen lamp, or other hot objects.
• Use only neutral soaps or detergents to clean the case. Benzene, thinner, and scouring powders
can damage the case and machine, and should never be used.
• Always consult the operation manual when replacing or installing any assemblies, the presser feet,
needle, or other parts to assure correct installation.
2
8 For repair or adjustment:
• If the Light unit (light-emitting diode) is damaged, it must be replaced by authorized dealer.
• In the event a malfunction occurs or adjustment is required, first follow the troubleshooting table
in the back of the operation manual to inspect and adjust the machine yourself. If the problem
persists, please consult your local authorized Brother dealer.
Use this machine only for its intended use as described in this manual.
Use accessories recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual.
The contents of this manual and specifications of this product are subject to change without notice.
For additional product information, visit our web site at www.brother.com
SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS
This machine is intended for household use.
This appliance is not intended for use by persons (including children) with reduced physical, sensory
or mental capabilities, or lack of experience and knowledge, unless they have been given supervision
or instruction concerning use of the appliance by a person responsible for their safety. Children should
be supervised to ensure that they do not play with the appliance.
FOR USERS IN THE UK, EIRE,
MALTA AND CYPRUS ONLY
IMPORTANT
• In the event of replacing the plug fuse, use a fuse approved by ASTA to BS 1362, i.e. carrying the
mark, rating as marked on plug.
• Always replace the fuse cover. Never use plugs with the fuse cover omitted.
• If the available electrical outlet is not suitable for the plug supplied with this equipment, you
should contact your authorized dealer to obtain the correct lead.
3
CONTENTS
1. KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ..........................................................5
NAMES OF MACHINE PARTS AND THEIR FUNCTIONS ....................................................5
The main parts ................................................................................................................................................. 5
Needle and presser foot section ...................................................................................................................... 6
Operation buttons ............................................................................................................................................. 6
Operation panel ................................................................................................................................................ 7
Flat bed attachment ......................................................................................................................................... 7
ACCESSORIES .....................................................................................................................8
Optional accessories ........................................................................................................................................ 8
USING YOUR SEWING MACHINE .....................................................................................9
Power supply precautions ................................................................................................................................ 9
Turning on the machine ................................................................................................................................... 9
Foot controller ................................................................................................................................................ 10
Sewing speed controller (for models equipped with the sewing speed controller) ......................................... 10
Changing the needle stop position ................................................................................................................. 10
Changing the initial needle position ............................................................................................................... 11
Cancelling the operation beep (for models equipped with the operation beep) ............................................. 11
THREADING THE MACHINE ............................................................................................12
Winding the bobbin ........................................................................................................................................ 12
Lower threading ............................................................................................................................................. 15
Upper threading ............................................................................................................................................. 17
Drawing up the lower thread .......................................................................................................................... 20
REPLACING THE NEEDLE .................................................................................................21
Needle precautions ........................................................................................................................................ 21
Needle types and their uses ........................................................................................................................... 21
Checking the needle ...................................................................................................................................... 22
Replacing the needle ..................................................................................................................................... 22
Sewing with a twin needle .............................................................................................................................. 24
REPLACING THE PRESSER FOOT ......................................................................................25
Replacing the presser foot ............................................................................................................................. 25
Removing the presser foot holder .................................................................................................................. 26
2. SEWING BASICS ...........................................................................................27
SEWING ............................................................................................................................27
General sewing procedure ............................................................................................................................. 27
Selecting a stitch ............................................................................................................................................ 28
Starting to sew ............................................................................................................................................... 29
Adjusting thread tension ................................................................................................................................. 31
USEFUL SEWING TIPS ......................................................................................................32
Trial sewing .................................................................................................................................................... 32
Changing the sewing direction ....................................................................................................................... 32
Sewing curves ................................................................................................................................................ 32
Sewing thick fabrics ....................................................................................................................................... 32
Sewing hook-and-loop fastener ..................................................................................................................... 33
Sewing thin fabrics ......................................................................................................................................... 34
Sewing stretch fabrics .................................................................................................................................... 34
Using a free-arm style .................................................................................................................................... 34
—————————————————————————————————————————————————————————
—
4
3. VARIOUS STITCHES .....................................................................................35
STITCH SETTINGS .............................................................................................................35
Utility stitches ................................................................................................................................................. 35
Character stitches (for models equipped with character stitches) .................................................................. 41
OVERCASTING STITCHES ................................................................................................42
BASIC STITCHING ............................................................................................................43
Basic stitching ................................................................................................................................................ 43
BLIND HEM STITCHING ..................................................................................................44
BUTTONHOLE SEWING ...................................................................................................46
Button sewing ................................................................................................................................................. 49
ZIPPER INSERTION ...........................................................................................................51
SEWING STRETCH FABRICS AND ELASTIC TAPE ............................................................52
Stretch stitching .............................................................................................................................................. 52
Elastic attaching ............................................................................................................................................. 52
APPLIQUÉ, PATCHWORK AND QUILT STITCHING ........................................................53
Appliqués ....................................................................................................................................................... 53
Patchwork (crazy quilt) stitching ..................................................................................................................... 54
Piecing ........................................................................................................................................................... 54
Quilting ........................................................................................................................................................... 55
Free-motion quilting ....................................................................................................................................... 56
REINFORCEMENT STITCHING .........................................................................................57
Triple stretch stitching .................................................................................................................................... 57
Bar tack stitching ............................................................................................................................................ 57
DECORATIVE STITCHING ................................................................................................59
Fagoting ......................................................................................................................................................... 60
Scallop stitching ............................................................................................................................................. 61
Smocking ....................................................................................................................................................... 61
Shell tuck stitching ......................................................................................................................................... 62
Joining ............................................................................................................................................................ 62
Heirloom stitching ........................................................................................................................................... 63
SEWING CHARACTERS (for models equipped with character stitches) ............................64
Selecting characters ....................................................................................................................................... 64
Checking characters ...................................................................................................................................... 66
Deleting characters ........................................................................................................................................ 66
Sewing the character stitches ........................................................................................................................ 67
ADJUSTING STITCHES (for models equipped with character stitches) .............................68
4. APPENDIX .....................................................................................................70
MAINTENANCE ................................................................................................................70
Cleaning the machine surface ........................................................................................................................ 70
Cleaning the bobbin case ............................................................................................................................... 70
TROUBLESHOOTING .......................................................................................................72
ERROR MESSAGES ............................................................................................................75
Operation beep (for models equipped with the operation beep) .................................................................... 75
INDEX ...............................................................................................................................76
5
1
1 KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE
NAMES OF MACHINE PARTS AND THEIR FUNCTIONS
The main parts
a Bobbin winder (page 12)
This winds the thread onto the bobbin for use as the
lower thread.
b Spool pin (pages 12 and 17)
This holds the spool of thread.
c Hole for extra spool pin (page 24)
This holds a second spool of thread for sewing with two
needles. Not for lubrication.
d Upper tension-control dial (page 31)
This controls the tension of the upper thread.
e Thread guide (pages 12 and 17)
This is used when winding the thread onto the bobbin
and then threading the machine.
f Thread take-up lever (page 18)
g Thread cutter (page 30)
Pass the threads through the thread cutter to cut them.
h Flat bed attachment with accessory compartment
(pages 7 and 34)
i Operation buttons (page 6)
The operation buttons differ depending on the sewing
machine model.
j Operation panel (page 7)
This is used to select the stitch and specify the various
settings.
k Handwheel
Used to manually raise and lower the needle.
l Main power and sewing light switch (page 9)
You can turn the main power and sewing light switch
on and off.
m Jack/socket connector (page 9)
Insert the plug on the power supply cord into the jack/
socket connector.
n Foot controller jack/socket (page 10)
Plug in the foot controller plug.
o Feed dog position lever (pages 49 and 56)
Use the feed dog position lever to lower the feed dogs.
p Presser foot lever (page 17)
Used to raise and lower the presser foot.
q Foot controller (page 10)
You can use this to control the sewing speed, and to
start and stop sewing.
r Handle
Carry the sewing machine by its handle when
transporting the machine.
KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————
—
6
Needle and presser foot section
a Buttonhole lever
Lower the buttonhole lever when sewing buttonholes
and bar tacks.
b Needle threader (for models equipped with the needle
threader) (page 18)
c Presser foot holder
The presser foot is installed onto the presser foot holder.
d Presser foot holder screw
Use the presser foot holder screw to hold the presser
foot holder in place.
e Presser foot
The presser foot applies pressure consistently on the
fabric as the sewing takes place. Attach the appropriate
presser foot for the selected stitching.
f Feed dogs
The feed dogs feed the fabric in the sewing direction.
g Quick-set bobbin (for models equipped with the quick-
set bobbin)
You can start sewing without pulling up the bobbin thread.
h Bobbin cover
Open the bobbin cover to set the bobbin.
i Needle plate
The needle plate is marked with guides for sewing
straight seams.
j Needle bar thread guide
Pass the upper thread through the needle bar thread guide.
k Needle clamp screw
Use the needle clamp screw to hold the needle in place.
Operation buttons
The operation buttons help you to easily perform various basic sewing machine operations.
The operation buttons differ depending on the sewing machine model.
a Presser foot lever
Raise and lower the presser foot lever to raise and lower
the presser foot.
b Reverse/reinforcement stitch button
Press the reverse/reinforcement stitch button to sew
reverse stitches. Reverse stitches are sewn by keeping
the button pressed down to sew in the opposite
direction. For details, refer to “Sewing reinforcement
stitches” (page 30).
■ Buttons provided on some models
c Start/stop button (for models equipped with the
start/stop button)
Press the start/stop button to start or stop sewing. The
machine sews at a slow speed at the beginning of
sewing while the button is depressed. When sewing is
stopped, the needle is lowered in the fabric. For details,
refer to “Starting to sew” (page 29).
d Needle position button (for models equipped with
the needle position button)
Press the needle position button to raise or lower the
needle. Pressing the button twice sews one stitch.
e Sewing speed controller (for models equipped with the
sewing speed controller)
Slide the sewing speed controller to adjust the sewing
speed.
7
1
Operation panel
The operation panel, located on the front of the sewing machine, allows you to select a stitch and specify how
the stitch will be sewn.
a LCD (liquid crystal display)
The number of the selected stitch (
1), the presser foot
to be used (
2), the stitch length (mm) (3), and the
stitch width (mm) (
4) are displayed here.
b Stitch selection keys
Press the stitch selection keys, and then select the
number for the stitch that you wish to use. For details,
refer to “Selecting a stitch” (page 28).
c Stitch length adjustment key
Press this key to adjust the stitch length.
(For models equipped with the character stitch key)
Press this key to check the combined characters. For
details, refer to “Checking characters” (page 66).
d Stitch width adjustment key
Press this key to adjust the stitch width.
(For models equipped with the character stitch key)
Press this key to add or delete characters. For details,
refer to “SEWING CHARACTERS (for models equipped
with character stitches)” (page 64).
■ Keys and indicators provided on some models
e Utility stitch key
Press this key to sew utility stitches. For details, refer to
“Selecting a stitch” (page 28) .
f Utility stitch indicator
This indicator lights up when the utility stitch key is
pressed.
g Character stitch key
Press this key to sew character stitches. For details, refer
to “SEWING CHARACTERS (for models equipped with
character stitches)” (page 64).
h Character stitch indicator
This indicator lights up when the character stitch key is
pressed.
Flat bed attachment
The accessories are stored in a compartment inside the flat bed attachment.
a
Slide the flat bed attachment to the left to open it.
a Flat bed attachment
b Storage compartment
Note
● Put the accessories in the bag, and then store the bag inside the compartment. If the accessories are not
in a bag, they may fall out, and be lost or damaged.
ABC
3
KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————
—
8
ACCESSORIES
The following accessories are stored in the flat bed attachment. We have designed these accessories to help you
be able to carry out most sewing tasks.
Note
(For U.S.A. only)
● Foot controller: Model T
This foot controller can be used on the following machine models
:
HS-3000, SQ-9000, SQ9050,
XR9500PRW.
● The screw of the presser foot holder is available through your authorized dealer. (Part code: 132730-122)
Optional accessories
1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8.
9. 10.
75/11 1 needle
90/14 1 needle
100/16 1 needle
11. 12.
90/14 1 needle
13. 14. 15. 16.
No. Part Name
Part Code
No. Part Name
Part Code
U.S.A. / Canada
Others
U.S.A. / Canada
Others
1 Buttonhole foot “A” XC2691-033 9 Bobbin (4) SA156
XA5539-151
2 Overcasting foot “G” XC3098-031 10 Needle set XC8834-021
3 Monogramming foot “N” XD0810-031 11 Twin needle 131096-121
4 Zipper foot “I” X59370-021 12
Ball point needle
(gold colored)
XD0360-021
5 Zigzag foot “J” (on machine) XC3021-031 13 Cleaning brush X59476-021
6 Blind stitch foot “R” XC4051-031 14 Screwdriver XC8349-021
7 Button fitting foot “M” XE2137-001 15 Extra spool pin 130920-021
8 Seam ripper X54243-051 16 Foot controller
XD0501-021 (EU area)
XC8816-021 (Other areas)
1. 2. 3. 4. 5.
No. Part Name
Part Code
No. Part Name
Part Code
U.S.A. / Canada
Others
U.S.A. / Canada
Others
1 Walking Foot SA140 F033N 4 Quilting guide SA132 F016N
2 Quilting Foot SA129 F005N 5 Eyelet punch XZ5051-001
3
1/4-Inch Quilting
Foot
SA125 F001N
9
1
USING YOUR SEWING MACHINE
Power supply precautions
Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the power supply.
Turning on the machine
a
Insert the plug into a wall outlet.
a Main power switch
b Jack/socket connector
b
Set the main power switch to “I”.
X The sewing lamp comes on when the
machine is turned on.
c
To turn off the machine, set the main power
switch to “
{
”.
X The sewing lamp goes off when the
machine is turned off.
Note
● If a power outage occurs while the sewing
machine is being operated, turn off the
sewing machine and unplug the power
supply cord. When restarting the sewing
machine, follow the necessary procedure to
correctly operate the machine.
(For U.S.A. only)
● This appliance has a polarized plug (one
blade wider than the other). To reduce the
risk of electric shock, this plug is intended
to fit in a polarized outlet only one way. If
the plug does not fit fully in the outlet,
reverse the plug.
If it still does not fit, contact a qualified
electrician to install the proper outlet. Do
not modify the plug in any way.
● Use only regular household electricity for the power source. Using other power sources may result in
fire, electric shock, or damage to the machine.
● Make sure that the plugs on the power cord are firmly inserted into the electrical outlet and the power
supply jack on the machine.
● Do not insert the plug on the power cord into an electrical outlet that is in poor condition.
● Turn off the main power and remove the plug in the following circumstances:
• When you are away from the machine
• After using the machine
• When the power fails during use
• When the machine does not operate correctly due to a bad connection or a disconnection
• During electrical storms
● Use only the power cord included with this machine.
● Do not use extension cords or multi-plug adapters with many other appliances plugged in to them. Fire
or electric shock may result.
● Do not touch the plug with wet hands. Electric shock may result.
●
When unplugging the machine, always turn off the main power first. Always grasp the plug to remove it from
the outlet. Pulling on the cord may damage the cord, or lead to fire or electric shock.
● Do not allow the power cord to be cut, damaged, modified, forcefully bent, pulled, twisted, or bundled.
Do not place heavy objects on the cord. Do not subject the cord to heat. These things may damage the
cord and cause fire or electric shock. If the cord or plug is damaged, take the machine to your
authorized dealer for repairs before continuing use.
●
Unplug the power cord if the machine is not to be used for a long period of time. Otherwise a fire may result.
WARNING
CAUTION
KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————
—
10
Foot controller
Insert the foot controller plug into its jack/socket on
the rear side of the sewing machine.
a Foot controller jack/socket
When you press the foot controller down lightly, the
machine will run at a low speed. When you press
harder, the machine’s speed will increase. When you
take your foot off the foot controller, the machine
will stop.
You should make sure that nothing is placed on the
foot controller when the machine is not in use.
Note
● When the foot controller is plugged in, the
start/stop button cannot be used to start
sewing (only for models equipped with the
start/stop button).
Sewing speed controller
(for models equipped with
the sewing speed controller)
a
Slide the sewing speed controller to the left or
right to select the desired sewing speed.
Slide the sewing speed controller to the left to
sew at a slower speed, or slide the speed
controller to the right to sew at a faster speed.
a Sewing speed controller
• The speed set using the sewing speed
controller is the foot controller’s maximum
sewing speed.
Changing the needle stop position
Normally, the sewing machine is set to leave the needle in
the fabric when sewing is stopped. Instead, the machine can
be set to leave the needle raised when sewing is stopped.
a
Turn off the sewing machine.
b
Hold down the “–” side of (stitch selection
key) on the left and turn on the sewing machine.
After turning on the sewing machine, release
the “–” side of (stitch selection key).
X The needle stop position changes to the
raised position.
Memo
● Perform the same operation to change the
needle stop position to the lowered
position.
● When connecting the foot controller, be sure
to turn off the sewing machine in order to
prevent the machine from accidentally being
started.
● Do not allow pieces of cloth and dust to build
up on the foot controller. Doing so could
cause a fire or an electric shock.
CAUTION
Slower
Faster
CAUTION
11
1
Changing the initial needle
position
Normally, the straight stitch (left needle position) is
automatically selected when the sewing machine is
turned on. The machine can be set so that the
straight stitch (center needle position) is
automatically selected when it is turned on.
a
Turn off the sewing machine.
b
Hold down the “+” side of (stitch selection
key) on the left and turn on the sewing
machine.
After turning on the sewing machine, release
the “+” side of (stitch selection key).
X The initial needle position changes to
the center needle position.
Memo
● The specified initial needle position is
maintained even after the machine is turned
off.
● Perform the same operation to change the
initial needle position to the left needle
position.
Cancelling the operation beep
(for models equipped with the
operation beep)
When the sewing machine is purchased, it is set to
beep each time a key is pressed. This setting can be
changed so that the machine does not beep.
a
Turn off the sewing machine.
b
Hold down the “–” side of (stitch width
adjustment key) and turn on the sewing
machine.
After turning on the sewing machine, release
the “-” side of (stitch width adjustment
key).
X The machine is now set so that it will
not beep.
KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————
—
12
THREADING THE MACHINE
Winding the bobbin
This section describes how to wind the thread onto the bobbin.
• For details on the fast bobbin winding, see page 14.
a Pre-tension disk
b Bobbin winder shaft
c Bobbin
a
Pull up the spool pin as far as possible, and
then put a spool of thread on this pin.
b
Pass the thread around the pre-tension disk.
c
Pass the end of the thread through the hole on
the bobbin from the inside of the bobbin.
d
Put the bobbin onto the bobbin winder shaft
and slide the bobbin winder shaft to the right.
Turn the bobbin clockwise, by hand, until the
spring on the shaft slides into the groove of
the bobbin.
a Spring on the shaft
b Groove of the bobbin
e
Turn on the sewing machine.
1 Pulling it in as far as
possible.
● Only use bobbins (part code: SA156, SFB) that have been designed for this sewing machine. Using other
bobbins may cause damage to the machine.
● We designed the bobbin that comes with this machine. If you use bobbins from other models, the
machine will not work properly. Only use the bobbin that comes with this machine or bobbins of the
same type (part code: SA156, SFB).
CAUTION
Actual size
This model Other models
11.5 mm
(7/16 inch)
● If the spool of thread is not in the right place,
the thread may tangle on the spool pin.
CAUTION
1
2
13
1
f
While holding the end of the thread, gently
press the foot controller or press (start/
stop button) (for models equipped with the
start/stop button) to wind the thread around
the bobbin a few times. Then stop the
machine.
Note
● If the sewing machine is to be operated
using the foot controller, connect the foot
controller before turning on the machine.
● When the foot controller is plugged in, the
start/stop button cannot be used to start
sewing (only for models equipped with the
start/stop button).
g
Trim the excess thread above the bobbin.
h
Slide the sewing speed controller to the right
(to set the speed to fast) (for models equipped
with the sewing speed controller).
a Sewing speed controller
i
Press the foot controller or press (start/
stop button) (for models equipped with the
start/stop button) to start.
j
When the bobbin seems full and begins
spinning slowly, take your foot off the foot
controller or press (start/stop button) (for
models equipped with the start/stop button).
k
Cut the thread, slide the bobbin winder shaft
to the left and remove the bobbin.
l
Slide the sewing speed controller back to its
original position (for models equipped with
the sewing speed controller).
Memo
● When the sewing machine is started or the
handwheel is turned after winding the
thread around the bobbin, the machine will
make a clicking sound; this is not a
malfunction.
● The needle bar does not move when you
slide the bobbin winding shaft to the right.
● Make sure you follow the instructions
carefully. If you do not cut the thread
completely, and the bobbin is wound, when
the thread runs low it may tangle around the
bobbin and cause the needle to break.
CAUTION
● Not winding the bobbin properly may cause
the thread tension to loosen, and may break
the needle.
a Wound evenly
b Wound poorly
CAUTION
1
2
KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————
—
14
■ For models equipped with the fast bobbin
winding system
a
Follow steps 1 through 2 of the procedure in
“Winding the bobbin” to pass the thread
around the pre-tension disk (page 12).
b
Place the bobbin on the bobbin winder shaft
so that the spring on the shaft fits into the
notch in the bobbin.
a Notch
b Bobbin winder shaft spring
c
Slide the bobbin winder shaft to the right.
d
While holding the thread that wraps around the
pre-tension disk with your left hand, use your
right hand to wind the free end of the thread
clockwise around the bobbin five or six times.
e
Pull the thread to the right and pass it through
the slit in the bobbin winder seat.
a Slit in bobbin winder seat (with built-in cutter)
X The thread is cut to a suitable length.
f
Slide the sewing speed controller
to the right
(to set the speed to fast) (for models equipped
with the sewing speed controller).
a Sewing speed controller
g
Turn on the sewing machine.
h
Press the foot controller or press (start/
stop button) (for models equipped with the
start/stop button) to start.
Note
● If the sewing machine is to be operated
using the foot controller, connect the foot
controller before turning on the machine.
● When the foot controller is plugged in, the
start/stop button cannot be used to start
sewing (only for models equipped with the
start/stop button).
i
When the bobbin begins spinning slowly, take
your foot off the foot controller or press
(start/stop button) (for models equipped with
the start/stop button).
j
Cut the thread, slide the bobbin winder shaft
to the left and remove the bobbin.
k
Slide the sewing speed controller back to its
original position (for models equipped with
the sewing speed controller).
●
Be sure to cut the thread as described. If the bobbin is
wound without cutting the thread using the cutter built
into the slit in the bobbin winder seat, the thread may
become tangled in the bobbin or the needle may bend
or break when the bobbin thread starts to run out.
CAUTION
●
Not winding the bobbin properly may cause the
thread tension to loosen, and may break the needle
.
a Wound evenly
b Wound poorly
CAUTION
1
2
15
1
Memo
● When the sewing machine is started or the
handwheel is turned after winding the
thread around the bobbin, the machine will
make a clicking sound; this is not a
malfunction.
● The needle bar does not move when you
slide the bobbin winding shaft to the right.
Lower threading
Install the bobbin wound with thread.
• For more details on quick-set bobbin, see page 16.
a
Raise the needle to its highest position by turning
the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) or
press (needle position button) (for models
equipped with the needle position button), and
raise the presser foot lever.
b
Slide the button and open the cover.
a Cover
b Slide button
c
Put the bobbin in so the thread comes out in
the direction shown by the arrow.
• Only use bobbins that were designed to be
used with this machine.
d
Hold the end of the thread, push the bobbin
down with your finger, and then pass the
thread through the slit, as shown.
• If the thread is not correctly inserted through
the tension-adjusting spring of the bobbin
case, it may cause incorrect thread tension
(page 31).
a Tension-adjusting spring
● Winding the bobbin improperly may cause
the thread tension to loosen, breaking the
needle and resulting in injury.
a Wound evenly
b Wound poorly
● The bobbin was designed specifically for this
sewing machine. If bobbins from other
models are used, the machine will not operate
correctly. Use only the enclosed bobbin or
bobbins of the same type (part code: SA156,
SFB).
● Make sure you turn the power off while
threading the machine. If you accidentally
step on the foot controller and the machine
starts to sew, you could be injured.
CAUTION
1
2
Actual size
This model Other models
11.5 mm
(7/16 inch)
CAUTION
● Make sure you set the bobbin so the thread
unrolls in the right direction. If the thread unrolls
in the wrong direction, it may cause the thread
tension to be incorrect or break the needle.
12
CAUTION
1
KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————
—
16
e
Replace the bobbin cover. Put the left tab in
place (see arrow a), and then press lightly on
the right side (see arrow b) until the cover
clicks into place.
• Replace the cover so that the end of the
thread comes out from the left side of the
cover (as shown by the line in the diagram).
■ For models equipped with the quick-set bobbin
a
Raise the needle to its highest position by turning
the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) or
press (needle position button) (for models
equipped with the needle position button), and
raise the presser foot lever.
b
Slide the button and open the cover.
a Cover
b Slide button
c
Put the bobbin in, feed the end of the thread
through the slit, and then pull the thread to cut it.
• Only use bobbins that were designed to be
used with this machine.
a Cutter
• If the thread is not correctly inserted through
the tension-adjusting spring of the bobbin
case, it may cause incorrect thread tension
(page 31).
a Tension-adjusting spring
Memo
● The order that the bobbin thread should be
passed through the bobbin case is indicated
by marks around the bobbin case. Be sure
to thread the machine as indicated.
d
Replace the bobbin cover. Put the left tab in
place (see arrow a), and then press lightly on
the right side (see arrow b) until the cover
clicks into place.
Memo
● You can begin sewing immediately without
drawing up the bobbin thread. If you want
to draw up the bobbin thread before you
start to sew, follow the procedure in
“Drawing up the lower thread” (page 20).
● Make sure you set the bobbin so the thread
unrolls in the right direction. If the thread unrolls
in the wrong direction, it may cause the thread
tension to be incorrect or break the needle.
12
CAUTION
1
1
17
1
Upper threading
Set the upper thread and thread the needle.
• For details on the needle threader, see page 18.
a Spool pin
b Thread guide
c Mark on the handwheel
a
Raise the presser foot using the presser foot
lever.
a Presser foot lever
b
Raise the needle by turning the handwheel
toward you (counterclockwise) so that the
mark on the wheel points up, or press
(needle position button) (for models equipped
with the needle position button) once or twice
to raise the needle.
• If the needle is not correctly raised, the
sewing machine can not be threaded. Be
sure to turn the handwheel so that the mark
on the wheel points up before threading the
sewing machine.
● Make sure you thread the machine properly. Otherwise, the thread could tangle and break the needle.
CAUTION
a Mark b Needle position button
or
KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————
—
18
c
Pull up the spool pin as far as possible, and
then put a spool of thread on this pin.
d
Feed the upper thread as shown in the figure
on the previous page.
e
Make sure you guide the thread through the
thread take-up lever from right to left.
a Thread take-up lever
f
Put the thread behind the needle bar thread
guide above the needle.
The thread can easily be passed behind the
needle bar thread guide by holding the thread
in your left hand, then feeding the thread with
your right hand.
a Needle bar thread guide
g
Thread the needle from front to back and pull
out about 5 cm (2 inch) of thread.
a 5 cm (2 inch)
Note
● If the thread take-up lever is lowered, the
upper thread cannot be wrapped around the
thread take-up lever. Make sure you raise
the presser foot lever and the thread take-up
lever before you feed the upper thread.
● If you incorrectly feed the thread you may
cause sewing problems.
■ Using the needle threader (for models
equipped with the needle threader)
a
Follow steps 1 through 6 of the procedure in
“Upper threading” to thread the machine to
the needle bar thread guide.
b
Lower the presser foot lever.
c
While lowering the needle threader lever,
hook the thread onto the guide.
a Needle holder
b Needle threader lever
c Guide
● If the spool of thread is in the wrong place, or
is set incorrectly, the thread may tangle on
the spool pin and cause the needle to break.
CAUTION
● The needle threader can only be used with
home sewing machine needles size 75/11-
100/16. Check the table on page 21 for the
appropriate needle and thread combinations.
If you are using transparent nylon mono-
filament thread, you can only use needles in
the range of 90/14-100/16.
● You cannot use the needle threader if you are
using decorative threads or special needles,
such as the twin needle and wing needle.
If you are using those types of threads or
needles, thread the eye of the needle by hand.
Make sure the main power switch is off when
threading the needle by hand.
CAUTION
19
1
d
Fully lower the needle threader lever.
X The end of the needle threader rotates
toward you and the hook passes
through the eye of the needle.
e
Catch the thread on the hook as shown below.
a Hook
b Thread
f
While lightly holding the thread, release the
needle threader lever. The hook will pull the
thread through the needle.
g
Pull out about 5 cm (2 inch) of thread through
the needle toward the back of the sewing
machine.
a 5 cm (2 inch)
Note
● If you incorrectly feed the thread you may
cause sewing problems.
KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————
—
20
Drawing up the lower thread
a
Lightly hold the end of the upper thread.
a Upper thread
b
While holding the end of the upper thread,
raise the needle either by turning the
handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) so
that the mark on the wheel points up or by
pressing (needle position button) (for
models equipped with the needle position
button) once or twice.
c
Pull on the upper thread to draw up the lower
thread.
a Upper thread
b Lower thread
d
Pull out about 10 cm (4 inch) of both threads
and pull them toward the back of the machine
under the presser foot.
a Upper thread
b Lower thread
■ For models equipped with the quick-set
bobbin
You can begin sewing immediately without
drawing up the bobbin thread. When sewing
gathers or darts, you can draw up the lower
thread by hand so that some thread will be left
over. Before you draw up the lower thread, put
the bobbin back in.
a
Pass the thread along the slit in the direction
of the arrow, and leave it there without
cutting it.
• The bobbin cover should still be removed.
b
Draw up the lower thread as described in
steps 1 to 4.
c
Replace the bobbin cover.
a Mark b Needle position button
or
21
1
REPLACING THE NEEDLE
This section provides information on sewing machine needles.
Needle precautions
Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the handling of the needle. Failure to observe these
precautions is extremely dangerous. Be sure to read and carefully follow the instructions below.
Needle types and their uses
The sewing machine needle that should be used depends on the fabric and thread thickness. Refer to the
following table when choosing the thread and needle appropriate for the fabric that you wish to sew.
Memo
● The smaller the thread number, the thicker the thread; and the larger the needle number, the thicker the
needle.
● Use the ball point needle when sewing on stretch fabrics or fabrics where skipped stitches easily occur.
● Use a 90/14 to 100/16 needle with transparent nylon threads, regardless of the fabric being sewn.
● Only use home sewing machine needles. Use of any other needle may bend the needle or damage the
machine.
● Never use bent needles. Bent needles can easily break, possibly resulting in injury.
CAUTION
Fabric Type/Application
Thread
Size of Needle
Type Size
Medium weight
fabrics
Broadcloth Cotton thread
60–90
75/11–90/14
Taffeta Synthetic thread
Flannel, Gabardine Silk thread 50
Thin fabrics
Lawn Cotton thread
60–90
65/9–75/11
Georgette Synthetic thread
Challis, Satin Silk thread 50
Thick fabrics
Denim Cotton thread
30 100/16
50
90/14–100/16
Corduroy Synthetic thread
50–60
Tweed Silk thread
Stretch fabrics
Jersey
Thread for knits 50–60
Ball point needle
(gold colored)
75/11–90/14
Tricot
Easily frayed fabrics
Cotton thread
50–90
65/9–90/14Synthetic thread
Silk thread 50
For top-stitching
Synthetic thread
50 90/14–100/16
Silk thread
KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————
—
22
Checking the needle
Sewing with a bent needle is extremely dangerous
since the needle may break while the machine is
being operated.
Before using the needle, place the flat side of the
needle on a flat surface and check that the distance
between the needle and the flat surface is even.
a Flat side
b Needle type marking
■ Correct needle
a Flat surface
■ Incorrect needle
If the distance between the needle and the flat
surface is not even, the needle is bent. Do not use
a bent needle.
a Flat surface
Replacing the needle
Replace the needle as described below. Use the
screwdriver and a needle that has been determined
to be straight according to the instructions in
“Checking the needle” .
a
Raise the needle by turning the handwheel
toward you (counterclockwise) so that the
mark on the wheel points up. (With models
equipped with (needle position button),
raise the needle by pressing once or
twice.)
b
Turn off the sewing machine.
c
Lower the presser foot lever.
a Presser foot lever
● The appropriate fabric, thread and needle
combinations are shown in the table on the
previous page. If the combination of the
fabric, thread and needle is not correct,
particularly when sewing thick fabrics (such
as denim) with thin needles (such as 65/9 to
75/11), the needle may bend or break. In
addition, the stitching may be uneven or
puckered or there may be skipped stitches.
CAUTION
1
2
1
1
a Mark b Needle position button
● Before replacing the needle, be sure to turn
off the sewing machine, otherwise injuries
may occur if the foot controller or the start/
stop button is accidentally pressed and the
machine starts sewing.
or
CAUTION
23
1
d
Hold the needle with your left hand, and then
use a screwdriver to turn the needle clamp
screw counterclockwise to remove the
needle.
Note
● The needle can be removed by simply
loosening the needle clamp screw about
one turn. (If the needle clamp screw is
loosened too much, the needle clamp
(which holds the needle) may fall off.
Therefore, do not loosen the needle clamp
screw too much.)
a Screwdriver
b Needle clamp screw
• Do not apply strong force when loosening or
tightening the needle clamp screw,
otherwise certain parts of the sewing
machine may be damaged.
e
With the flat side of the needle toward the
rear of the machine, insert the needle until it
touches the needle stopper.
a Needle stopper
f
While holding the needle with your left hand,
use the screwdriver to tighten the needle
clamp screw by turning it clockwise.
Install the twin needle in the same way.
● Be sure to insert the needle until it touches
the needle stopper and securely tighten the
needle clamp screw with the screwdriver,
otherwise the needle may break or damage
may result.
CAUTION
KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————
—
24
Sewing with a twin needle
We have designed your machine so you can sew with this needle and two top threads. You can use the same
color or two different colors of thread for making decorative stitches.
For details on the stitches that can be sewn with the twin needle, refer to “STITCH SETTINGS” (page 35).
■ Twin needle threading
a
Attach the twin needle.
Attach the twin needle in the same way as a
single needle (page 22).
b
Attach the extra spool pin.
Put the extra spool pin in the hole on the top of
the machine. Put the second spool of thread
onto the extra spool pin.
a First spool
b Second spool
c
Use the thread from the first spool to thread
the machine to the needle bar thread guide.
The path for threading the machine to the
needle bar thread guide is the same as for
normally threading the machine (for a single
needle). See page 18 for more details.
d
Thread the left needle from front to back.
e
Use the thread from the second spool to thread
the machine to the thread take-up lever.
The path for threading the machine to the
thread take-up lever is the same as for normally
threading the machine (for a single needle).
See page 18 for more details.
f
Thread the right needle from front to back.
Do not pass the thread behind the needle bar
thread guide.
a Left needle thread passes through the needle bar
thread guide.
b Right needle thread passes in front of the needle
bar thread guide.
c Needle bar thread guide
Note
(
For models equipped with a needle threader
)
● You cannot use the needle threader to
thread the twin needle. Instead, thread the
twin needle by hand, from front to back.
Using the needle threader may damage the
machine.
● Use only twin needles that have been made for this machine (part code: 131096-121). Other needles
could break, and damage the machine.
● Do not sew with bent needles. The needle could break and injure you.
● You can not use the needle threader to thread the twin needle. Instead, thread the twin needle by hand,
from front to back. Using the needle threader may damage the machine.
● When using the twin needle, be sure to select an appropriate stitch, otherwise the needle may break or
the machine may be damaged.
● Select a stitch width of 5.0 mm (3/16 inch) or less, otherwise the needle may break or the machine may
be damaged.
● After adjusting the stitch width, slowly turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) and check that
the needle does not touch the presser foot. If the needle hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or break.
● When using the twin needle, be sure to attach zigzag foot “J”, otherwise the needle may break or the
machine may be damaged.
● When changing the sewing direction, be sure to raise the needle before turning the fabric. If the fabric is
turned while the needle is lowered, the needle may bend or break.
CAUTION
● When using the twin needle, be sure to attach
zigzag foot “J”, otherwise the needle may
break or the machine may be damaged.
CAUTION
25
1
REPLACING THE PRESSER FOOT
Replacing the presser foot
Replace the presser foot as described below.
a
Raise the needle by turning the handwheel
toward you (counterclockwise) so that the
mark on the wheel points up. (With models
equipped with (needle position button),
raise the needle by pressing once or twice.)
b
If the sewing machine has been turned on,
turn it off.
c
Raise the presser foot lever.
a Presser foot lever
d
Press the black button at the back of the
presser foot holder to release the presser foot.
a Black button
b Presser foot holder
e
Place a different presser foot below the holder
so that the presser foot pin is aligned with the
shank in the holder.
Position the presser foot so the letter indicating
the presser foot type (J, A, etc.) is positioned to
be read.
a Presser foot holder
b Shank
c Pin
Note
● The presser foot to be used with each stitch
appears in the LCD. To select a stitch, refer
to “Selecting a stitch” (page 28).
● Always turn off the power before you change the presser foot. If you leave the power on and step on the
controller, the machine will start and you may be injured.
● Always use the correct presser foot for the stitch pattern you have chosen. If you use the wrong presser
foot, the needle may strike the presser foot and bend or break, and may cause injury.
● Only use presser feet that have been designed to be used with this machine. Using other any presser feet
may cause an accident or injury.
CAUTION
a Mark b Needle position button
● Before replacing the presser foot, be sure to
turn off the sewing machine, otherwise
injuries may occur if the foot controller or the
start/stop button is accidentally pressed and
the machine starts sewing.
or
CAUTION
KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————
—
26
f
Slowly lower the presser foot lever so that the
presser foot pin snaps into the shank in the
presser foot holder.
a Presser foot lever
X The presser foot is attached.
g
Raise the presser foot lever to check that the
presser foot is securely attached.
Removing the presser foot
holder
Remove the presser foot holder when cleaning the
sewing machine or when installing a presser foot that
does not use the presser foot holder, such as the
quilting foot. Use the screwdriver to remove the
presser foot holder.
■ Removing the presser foot holder
a
Remove the presser foot.
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 25).
b
Use the screwdriver to loosen the presser foot
holder screw.
a Screwdriver
b Presser foot holder
c Presser foot holder screw
■ Attaching the presser foot holder
a
Align the presser foot holder with the lower-
left side of the presser bar.
a Presser foot holder
b Presser bar
b
Hold the presser foot holder in place with
your right hand, and then tighten the screw
using the screwdriver in your left hand.
a Screwdriver
b Presser foot holder
c Presser foot holder screw
Note
● If the presser foot holder is not correctly
installed, the thread tension will be
incorrect.
27
2
2 SEWING BASICS
SEWING
Basic sewing operations are described below.
Before operating the sewing machine, read the following precautions.
General sewing procedure
Follow the basic procedures below to sew.
● While the machine is in operation, pay special attention to the needle location. In addition, keep your
hands away from all moving parts such as the needle and handwheel, otherwise injuries may occur.
● Do not pull or push the fabric too hard while sewing, otherwise injuries may occur or the needle may
break.
● Never use bent needles. Bent needles can easily break, possibly resulting in injuries.
● Make sure that the needle does not strike basting pins, otherwise the needle may break or bend.
CAUTION
1
Turn on the
machine.
Turn on the sewing machine.
For details on turning on the machine, refer to “Turning on the machine”
(page 9).
p
2 Select the stitch.
Select the stitch appropriate for the area to be sewn.
For details on selecting a stitch, refer to “Selecting a stitch” (page 28).
p
3
Attach the presser
foot.
Attach the presser foot appropriate for the stitch.
For details on replacing the presser foot, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 25).
p
4 Start sewing.
Position the fabric, and then start sewing. When sewing is finished, cut the
threads.
For details on starting to sew, refer to “Starting to sew” (page 29).
SEWING BASICS ——————————————————————————————————————————————————
—
28
Selecting a stitch
Using the stitch selection keys, select the desired
stitch.
When the sewing machine is turned on, the straight
stitch ( left needle position) is selected.
■ [Example] Selecting stitch (No. 04)
a
Turn on the sewing machine.
b
(For models equipped with the character
stitch key)
Confirm that the utility stitch indicator is lit. If
it is not lit, press the utility stitch key.
a Utility stitch key
b Utility stitch indicator
c
Press (stitch selection keys) to select
pattern No. 04.
Press the “+” or “–” side of to increase or
reduce the number
.
a Pattern No. of the selected stitch
b Changes the digit on the left.
c Changes the digit on the right.
X The stitch is selected.
Memo
●
The mark “ “ appears on the LCD when a
stitch that is programmed with the automatic
reinforcement stitching setting is selected.
d
Attach the presser foot indicated on the LCD.
a The presser foot to use
• For details, refer to
“Replacing the presser
foot” (page 25)
.
e
If necessary, press the “+” or “–” side of
(stitch length adjustment key) to increase or
reduce the stitch length.
a Stitch length adjustment key
b Short
c Long
f
If necessary, press the “+” or “–” side of
(stitch width adjustment key) to increase or
reduce the stitch width.
a Stitch width adjustment key
b Narrow
c Wide
Note
● When the stitch length or stitch width is
changed from the auto setting, the
around the or disappears from the
LCD. When the stitch length or stitch width
is reset back to the auto setting, the
reappears around or on the LCD.
● If the stitch width of the selected stitch
cannot be adjusted, “--” appears to the right
of the on the LCD.
ABC
ABC
29
2
g
When you have finished making adjustments,
start sewing.
• For details, refer to “Starting to sew”
(
page 29)
.
Memo
● For details on selecting character stitches,
refer to “Selecting characters”
(page 64)
.
Starting to sew
a
Raise the needle by turning the handwheel
toward you (counterclockwise) so that the mark
on the wheel points up. (With models equipped
with (needle position button), raise the
needle by pressing once or twice.)
b
Raise the presser foot lever.
a Presser foot lever
c
Place the fabric under the presser foot, pass
the thread under the presser foot, and then
pull out about 5 cm (2 inch) of thread toward
the rear of the machine.
a 5 cm (2 inch)
d
While holding the end of the thread and the
fabric with your left hand, turn the handwheel
toward you (counterclockwise) with your
right hand to lower the needle to the starting
point of the stitching.
● After adjusting the stitch width, slowly turn
the handwheel toward you
(counterclockwise) and check that the needle
does not touch the presser foot. If the needle
hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or
break.
● If the stitches are bunched together, increase
the stitch length. Continuing to sew with the
stitches bunched together may cause the
needle to bend or break.
CAUTION
a Mark b Needle position button
or
SEWING BASICS ——————————————————————————————————————————————————
—
30
e
Lower the presser foot lever.
a Presser foot lever
f
On models equipped with a sewing speed
controller, slide the sewing speed controller
to the left or right to adjust the sewing speed.
Refer to “Sewing speed controller (for models
equipped with the sewing speed controller)”
(page 10).
a Sewing speed controller
g
Slowly press down on the foot controller.
(With models equipped with (start/stop
button), if the foot controller is not connected,
press once.)
a Start/stop button
X The machine starts sewing.
h
Take your foot off the foot controller, or press
(start/stop button) once (if the machine
was started by pressing (start/stop button))
(for models equipped with the start/stop
button).
X The machine stops sewing.
i
Raise the needle by turning the handwheel
toward you (counterclockwise) so that the
mark on the wheel points up. (With models
equipped with (needle position button),
raise the needle by pressing once or
twice.)
j
Raise the presser foot lever.
k
Pull the fabric to the left side of the machine,
and then pass the threads through the thread
cutter to cut them.
a Thread cutter
Memo
● When the foot controller is plugged in,
(start/stop button) cannot be used to start
sewing.
●
When sewing is stopped, the needle remains
lowered (in the fabric). The machine can be
set so that the needle will stay up when
sewing is stopped. For details on setting the
machine so that the needles stay up when
sewing is stopped, refer to “Changing the
needle stop position” (page 10).
■ Sewing reinforcement stitches
When sewing stitches other than straight or zigzag
stitches that are secured with reverse stitching,
pressing (reverse/reinforcement stitch button)
sews reinforcement stitches, 3 to 5 stitches on top
of each other.
a Reverse stitching
b Reinforcement stitching
Memo
● Whether reverse stitches or reinforcement
stitches are sewn depends on the stitch that
is selected. For details, refer to “STITCH
SETTINGS” (page 35).
or
1
2
31
2
Adjusting thread tension
The thread tension will affect the quality of your
stitches. You may need to adjust it when you change
fabric or thread.
Memo
● We recommend that you do a test sample
on scrap of a fabric before you start to sew.
■ Correct tension
Correct tension is important as too much or too
little tension will weaken your seams or cause
puckers on your fabric.
■ Upper tension is too tight
Loops will appear on the surface of the fabric.
Note
● If the bobbin thread was incorrectly
threaded, the upper thread may be too tight.
In this case, refer to
“Lower threading”
(page 15)
and rethread the bobbin thread.
Solution
Reduce the tension by turning the upper
tension-control dial to a lower number.
Memo
● When you finish sewing, remove the
bobbin cover and then make sure that the
thread is shown as below. If the thread is
not shown as below, the thread is not
inserted through the tension-adjusting
spring of the bobbin case correctly. Reinsert
the thread correctly. For details, refer to
page 15, 16.
■ Upper tension is too loose
Loops appear on the wrong side of the fabric.
Note
● If the upper thread was incorrectly
threaded, the upper thread may be too
loose. In this case, refer to
“Upper
threading” (page 17)
and rethread the upper
thread.
Solution
Increase the tension by turning the upper
tension-control dial to a higher number.
1
2
3
4
a Wrong side
b Surface
c Upper thread
d Lower thread
1
2
3
4
5
a Wrong side
b Surface
c Upper thread
d Lower thread
e Loops appear on
surface of fabric
4
3
5
1
2
3
4
5
a Wrong side
b Surface
c Upper thread
d Lower thread
e Loops appear on
wrong side of
fabric
4
3
5
SEWING BASICS ——————————————————————————————————————————————————
—
32
USEFUL SEWING TIPS
Various ways to achieve better results for your sewing projects are described below. Refer to these tips when
sewing your project.
Trial sewing
After you select a stitch, the machine automatically
sets the stitch width and length for the stitch that is
selected.
However, a trial piece of fabric should be sewn since,
depending on the type of fabric and stitching being
sewn, the desired results may not be achieved.
For the trial sewing, use a piece of fabric and thread
that are the same as those used for your project, and
check the thread tension and stitch length and width.
Since the results differ depending on the type of
stitching and the number of layers of fabric sewn,
perform the trial sewing under the same conditions
that will be used with your project.
Changing the sewing
direction
a
When the stitching reaches a corner, stop the
sewing machine.
Leave the needle lowered (in the fabric). If the
needle was raised, lower the needle either by
turning the handwheel toward you
(counterclockwise) or by pressing (needle
position button) once (for models equipped
with the needle position button).
b
Raise the presser foot lever, and then turn the
fabric.
Turn the fabric using the needle as a pivot.
c
Lower the presser foot lever and continue
sewing.
Sewing curves
Stop sewing, and then slightly change the sewing
direction to sew around the curve.
When sewing along a curve while using a zigzag
stitch, select a shorter stitch length in order to obtain
a finer stitch.
Sewing thick fabrics
■ If the fabric does not fit under the presser foot
If the fabric does not fit easily under the presser
foot, raise the presser foot lever even higher to
bring the presser foot to its highest position.
● When using the twin needle, be sure to raise
the needle before changing the sewing
direction. If the fabric is turned while the
needle is lowered, the needle may bend or
break.
CAUTION
33
2
■ If thick seams are being sewn and the fabric does
not feed at the beginning of stitching
Zigzag foot “J” is equipped with a feature that
keeps the presser foot level.
a Sewing direction
a
When you encounter a seam that is too thick
to feed under the foot, raise the presser foot
lever.
b
Press the black button on the left side of the
foot. Keep the button held in and lower the
presser foot.
a Black button
c
Release the button. The foot will lock in place
level with the seam, allowing the fabric to
feed.
• Once the trouble spot has been passed, the
foot will return to its normal position.
Sewing hook-and-loop
fastener
Note
● Before start sewing, baste together the fabric
and the hook-and-loop fastener.
Make sure that the needle passes through the hook-
and-loop fastener by turning the handwheel and
lower the needle into the hook-and-loop fastener
before sewing. And then, sew the edge of the hook-
and-loop fastener at a slow speed.
If the needle does not pass through the hook-and-
loop fastener, replace the needle with the needle for
thick fabrics (
page 21
).
a Edge of the hook-and-loop fastener
● If fabric more than 6 mm (15/64 inch) thick is
sewn or if the fabric is pushed with too much
force, the needle may bend or break.
CAUTION
● Use only the ungummed hook-and-loop
fastener which is for sewing. If the glue is
attached to the needle or the bobbin hook
race, it may cause malfunction.
● If the hook-and-loop fastener is sewn with the
thin needle (65/9-75/11), the needle may
bend or break.
CAUTION
SEWING BASICS ——————————————————————————————————————————————————
—
34
Sewing thin fabrics
When sewing thin fabrics, the stitching may become
misaligned or the fabric may not feed correctly. If
this occurs, place thin paper or stabilizer material
under the fabric and sew it together with the fabric.
When you have finished sewing, tear off any excess
paper.
a Stabilizer material or paper
Sewing stretch fabrics
First, baste the pieces of fabric together, and then
sew without stretching the fabric.
a Basting
Using a free-arm style
Free-arm sewing is convenient for sewing tubular
and hard-to-reach areas. To change your machine to
the free-arm style, lift out the flat bed attachment.
a
Slide the flat bed attachment to the left to
release it.
a Flat bed attachment
35
3
3 VARIOUS STITCHES
STITCH SETTINGS
Applications, stitch lengths and widths and whether the twin needle can be used are listed for stitches in the
following table.
Utility stitches
● Select a stitch width of 5.0 mm (3/16 inch) or less, otherwise the needle may break or the machine may
be damaged.
● When using the twin needle, be sure to attach zigzag foot “J”, otherwise the needle may break or the
machine may be damaged.
CAUTION
Stitch Name
Pattern
Presser Foot
Pattern No.
Application
Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
Twin Needle
Walking Foot
Reverse
(
Rev.
)
/
Reinforcement
(
Rfc.
)
Stitching
100 stitches
model
90 stitches
model
80 stitches
model
70 stitches
model
60 stitches
model
50 stitches
model
40 stitches
model
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
Straight
Left J 00000000000000
Basic stitching, sewing
gathers or pintucks, etc.
0.0 (0)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
0.2–5.0
(1/64–3/16)
Yes
( J )
Yes Rev.
Center
J 01010101010101
Attaching zippers, basic
stitching, and sewing
gathers or pintucks, etc.
3.5 (1/8)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
0.2–5.0
(1/64–3/16)
Yes
( J )
Yes Rev.
Triple
stretch stitch
J 02020202020202
Attaching sleeves,
sewing inseams, sewing
stretch fabrics and
decorative stitching
0.0 (0)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
1.5–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
Yes
( J )
No Rfc.
Stretch stitch J 03030303030303
Sewing stretch fabrics
and decorative stitching
1.0 (1/16)
1.0–3.0
(1/16–1/8)
2.5 (3/32)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
Yes
( J )
No Rfc.
Zigzag stitch J 04040404040404
Overcasting and
attaching appliqués
3.5 (1/8)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.4 (1/16)
0.0–4.0
(0–3/16)
Yes
( J )
Yes Rev.
3-point zig-
zag stitch
J 05050505050505
Overcasting on medium
weight or stretch
fabrics, attaching
elastic, darning, etc.
5.0 (3/16)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
1.0 (1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
Yes
( J )
No Rfc.
Overcasting
stitch
G 06060606060606
Overcasting on thin or
medium weight fabrics
3.5 (1/8)
2.5–5.0
(3/32–3/16)
2.0 (1/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
No No Rfc.
G 07070707070707
Overcasting on thick
fabrics
5.0 (3/16)
2.5–5.0
(3/32–3/16)
2.5 (3/32)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
No No Rfc.
J 08080808080808
Overcasting on stretch
fabrics
5.0 (3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
0.5–4.0
(1/32–3/16)
Yes
( J )
No Rfc.
J 090909 - - - -
Overcasting on thick or
stretch fabrics
5.0 (3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
0.5–4.0
(1/32–3/16)
Yes
( J )
No Rfc.
*Do not use reverse stitching. **Select a stitch width of 5.0 mm (3/16 inch) or less.
**
**
*
*
*
**
**
**
**
**
VARIOUS STITCHES ————————————————————————————————————————————————
—
36
Stitch Name
Pattern
Presser Foot
Pattern No.
Application
Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
Twin Needle
Walking Foot
Reverse
(
Rev.
)
/
Reinforcement
(
Rfc.
)
Stitching
100 stitches
model
90 stitches
model
80 stitches
model
70 stitches
model
60 stitches
model
50 stitches
model
40 stitches
model
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
Blind hem
stitch
R 10101009090909
Blind hem stitching on
medium weight fabrics
0 (0)
-3m o3
2.0 (1/16)
1.0–3.5
(1/16–1/8)
No No Rfc.
R 11111110101010
Blind hem stitching on
stretch fabrics
0 (0)
-3m o3
2.0 (1/16)
1.0–3.5
(1/16–1/8)
No No Rfc.
Appliqué
stitch
J 12121211111111Appliqué stitching
3.5 (1/8)
2.5–7.0
(3/32–1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
1.6–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
Yes
( J )
No Rfc.
Shell tuck
stitch
J 13 13 13 12 12 12 12 Shell tuck stitching
4.0 (3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
Yes
( J )
No Rfc.
Satin scallop
stitch
N 14 14 14 13 13 13 13 Scallop stitching
5.0 (3/16)
2.5-7.0
(3/32-1/4)
0.5 (1/32)
0.1-1.0
(1/64-1/16)
Yes
( J )
No Rfc.
Joining stitch
J 15151514141414
Patchwork stitching and
decorative stitching
4.0 (3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.2 (1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
Yes
( J )
No Rfc.
J 16161615151515
Patchwork stitching,
decorative stitching and
sewing overcasting on
both pieces of fabrics,
such as with tricot
5.0 (3/16)
2.5–7.0
(3/32–1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
Yes
( J )
No Rfc.
J 17171716161616
Patchwork stitching and
decorative stitching
5.0 (3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.2 (1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
Yes
( J )
No Rfc.
Smocking
stitch
J 181818 - - - -
Smocking stitching and
decorative stitching
5.0 (3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.6 (1/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
Yes
( J )
No Rfc.
Fagoting
stitch
J 19191917171717
Fagoting, smocking and
decorative stitching
5.0 (3/16)
0.0-7.0
(0-1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
1.0-4.0
(1/16-3/16)
Yes
( J )
No Rfc.
J 20202018181818
Fagoting, smocking and
decorative stitching
5.0 (3/16)
2.5-7.0
(3/32-1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
1.0-4.0
(1/16-3/16)
Yes
( J )
No Rfc.
Elastic-
attaching
stitch
J 212121 - - - -
Attaching elastic to
stretch fabrics
4.0 (3/16)
0.0-7.0
(0-1/4)
1.0 (1/16)
0.2-4.0
(1/64-3/16)
Yes
( J )
No Rfc
Decorative
stitch
J 22222219191919Decorative stitching
4.0 (3/16)
0.0-7.0
(0-1/4)
3.0 (1/8)
2.0-4.0
(1/16-3/16)
No No Rfc.
J 23232320202020Decorative stitching
4.0 (3/16)
0.0-7.0
(0-1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
1.0-4.0
(1/16-3/16)
Yes
( J )
No Rfc.
J 24 24 24 21 21 21 – Decorative stitching
5.5 (7/32)
0.0-7.0
(0-1/4)
1.6 (1/16)
1.0-4.0
(1/16-3/16)
Yes
( J )
No Rfc.
N
25 25 25 22 22 22 21
Decorative stitching
and elastic-attaching
5.0 (3/16)
1.5-7.0
(1/64-1/4)
1.0 (1/16)
0.2-4.0
(1/64-3/16)
Yes
( J )
No Rfc.
N 26262623232322
Lace sewing, decorative
hemming, heirloom
stitching, etc.
3.5 (1/8)
1.5-7.0
(1/16-1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
1.6-4.0
(1/16-3/16)
No No Rfc.
N 27272724242423
Decorative hemming,
heirloom stitching, etc.
6.0 (15/64)
1.5-7.0
(1/16-1/4)
3.0 (1/8)
1.5-4.0
(1/16-3/16)
No No Rfc.
**
**Select a stitch width of 5.0 mm (3/16 inch) or less.
**
**
**
**
**
**
**
**
**
**
**
**
37
3
Stitch Name
Pattern
Presser Foot
Pattern No.
Application
Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
Twin Needle
Walking Foot
Reverse
(
Rev.
)
/
Reinforcement
(
Rfc.
)
Stitching
100 stitches
model
90 stitches
model
80 stitches
model
70 stitches
model
60 stitches
model
50 stitches
model
40 stitches
model
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
Decorative
stitch
N 282828252525 –
Decorative hemming
on thin, medium weight
and plain weave fab-
rics, heirloom stitching,
etc.
5.0 (3/16)
1.5-7.0
(1/16-1/4)
3.5 (1/8)
1.5-4.0
(1/16-3/16)
No No Rfc.
N 29292926262624
Decorative hemming
on thin, medium weight
and plain weave fab-
rics, heirloom stitching,
etc.
5.0 (3/16)
1.5-7.0
(1/16-1/4)
4.0 (3/16)
1.5-4.0
(1/16-3/16)
No No Rfc.
N 303030272727 –
Decorative hemming
on thin, medium weight
and plain weave fab-
rics, heirloom stitching,
etc.
5.0 (3/16)
1.5-7.0
(1/16-1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
1.5-4.0
(1/16-3/16)
No No Rfc.
N 313131282828 –
Decorative hemming
on thin, medium weight
and plain weave fab-
rics, heirloom stitching,
etc.
5.0 (3/16)
1.5-7.0
(1/16-1/4)
2.0 (1/16)
1.5-4.0
(1/16-3/16)
No No Rfc.
N 323232 - - - -
Decorative stitching,
smocking stitching,
heirloom stitching, etc.
6.0 (15/64)
1.5-7.0
(1/16-1/4)
1.6 (1/16)
1.0-4.0
(1/16-3/16)
No No Rfc.
N 333333 - - - -
Decorative stitching,
smocking stitching,
heirloom stitching, etc.
5.0 (3/16)
1.5-7.0
(1/16-1/4)
1.6 (1/16)
1.0-4.0
(1/16-3/16)
No No Rfc.
Buttonhole
stitch
A 34343429292925
Horizontal buttonholes
on thin and medium
weight fabrics
5.0 (3/16)
3.0-5.0
(1/8-3/16)
0.5 (1/32)
0.2-1.0
(1/64-1/16)
No No
Auto
Rfc.
A 35353530303026
Secured buttonholes for
fabrics that have back-
ings
5.0 (3/16)
3.0–5.0
(1/8-3/16)
0.5 (1/32)
0.2–1.0
(1/64-1/16)
No No
Auto
Rfc.
A 36363631313127
Buttonholes for stretch
or knit fabrics
6.0 (15/64)
3.0–6.0
(1/8-15/64)
1.0 (1/16)
0.5–2.0
(1/32-1/16)
No No
Auto
Rfc.
A 37373732323228
Buttonholes for stretch
fabrics
6.0 (15/64)
3.0–6.0
(1/8-15/64)
1.5 (1/16)
1.0–3.0
(1/16-1/8)
No No
Auto
Rfc.
A 38 38 38 - - - - Bound buttonholes
5.0 (3/16)
0.0–6.0
(0–15/64)
2.0 (1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64-3/16)
No No
Auto
Rfc.
A 39393933333329
Keyhole buttonholes for
thick or furry fabrics
7.0 (1/4)
3.0–7.0
(1/8-1/4)
0.5 (1/32)
0.3–1.0
(1/64-1/16)
No No
Auto
Rfc.
A 4040403434 – –
Keyhole buttonholes for
medium weight and
thick fabrics
7.0 (1/4)
3.0–7.0
(1/8-1/4)
0.5 (1/32)
0.3–1.0
(1/64-1/16)
No No
Auto
Rfc.
A 4141413535 – –
Keyhole buttonholes for
thick or furry fabrics
7.0 (1/4)
3.0–7.0
(1/8-1/4)
0.5 (1/32)
0.3–1.0
(1/64-1/16)
No No
Auto
Rfc.
Bar tack
stitch
A 42424236363430
Reinforcing openings
and areas where the
seam easily comes
loose
2.0 (1/16)
1.0–3.0
(1/16-1/8)
0.4 (1/64)
0.3–1.0
(1/64-1/16)
No No
Auto
Rfc.
Piecing
straight
stitch
J 4343433737 - -
Piecing straight stitching
(with a seam allowance
of 6.5mm from the right
edge of the presser foot)
5.5 (7/32)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.0 (1/16)
0.2–5.0
(1/64–3/16)
No Yes Rfc.
J 4444443838 - -
Piecing straight
stitching (with a seam
allowance of 6.5mm
from the left edge of the
presser foot)
1.5 (1/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.0 (1/16)
0.2–5.0
(1/64–3/16)
No Yes Rfc.
***Auto Rfc.:Automatic Reinforcement
***
***
***
***
***
***
***
***
***
VARIOUS STITCHES ————————————————————————————————————————————————
—
38
Stitch Name
Pattern
Presser Foot
Pattern No.
Application
Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
Twin Needle
Walking Foot
Reverse
(
Rev.
)
/
Reinforcement
(
Rfc.
)
Stitching
100 stitches
model
90 stitches
model
80 stitches
model
70 stitches
model
60 stitches
model
50 stitches
model
40 stitches
model
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
Hand-look
quilting
J 45454539393531
Straight stitch quilting
that looks hand-sewn
0.0 (0)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
No No Rfc.
Zigzag stitch
(for quilting)
J 4646464040 - -
Appliqué quilting, free-
motion quilting, satin
stitching, button sewing
3.5 (1/8)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.4 (1/16)
0.0–4.0
(0–3/16)
No Yes Rfc.
Appliqué
stitch
(for quilting)
J 4747474141 - -
Attaching appliqués
and binding
1.5 (1/16)
0.5–3.5
(1/32–1/8)
1.8 (1/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
No No Rfc.
J 4848484242 - -
Attaching appliqués
and binding
1.5 (1/16)
0.5–3.5
(1/32–1/8))
1.8 (1/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
No No Rfc.
Quilting
stippling
J 4949494343 - -
Quilting background
stitching (stippling)
7.0 (1/4)
1.0–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
1.6 (1/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
No No Rfc.
Decorative
stitch
N 505050 - - - -For decoration, etc.
3.0 (1/8)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.0 (1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No No Rfc.
N51------For decoration, etc.
5.0 (3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.0 (1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64-3/16)
No No Rfc.
N52------For decoration, etc.
4.0 (3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.6 (1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No No Rfc.
N 53 51 - - - - - For decoration, etc.
5.0 (3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No No Rfc.
N 545251 - - - -For decoration, etc.
7.0 (1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No No Rfc.
N 55535244443632For decoration, etc.
7.0 (1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No No Rfc.
N 56 54 - - - - - For decoration, etc.
7.0 (1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.4 (1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No No Rfc.
N 57 55 - - - - - For decoration, etc.
7.0 (1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No No Rfc.
N58------For decoration, etc.
7.0 (1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.6 (1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No No Rfc.
N 59565345453733For decoration, etc.
7.0 (1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.0 (1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No No Rfc.
N 605754464638 -For decoration, etc.
7.0 (1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No No Rfc.
N61------For decoration, etc.
7.0 (1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No No Rfc.
N 62 58 - - - - - For decoration, etc.
7.0 (1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.0 (1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No No Rfc.
39
3
Stitch Name
Pattern
Presser Foot
Pattern No.
Application
Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
Twin Needle
Walking Foot
Reverse
(
Rev.
)
/
Reinforcement
(
Rfc.
)
Stitching
100 stitches
model
90 stitches
model
80 stitches
model
70 stitches
model
60 stitches
model
50 stitches
model
40 stitches
model
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
Decorative
stitch
N 63595547 - - -For decoration, etc.
7.0 (1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No No Rfc.
N 64 60 - - - - - For decoration, etc.
7.0 (1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.6 (1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No No Rfc.
N 656156484739 -For decoration, etc.
7.0 (1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.0 (1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No No Rfc.
N 666257494840 -For decoration, etc.
7.0 (1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.0 (1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No No Rfc.
N 67635850 - - -For decoration, etc.
7.0 (1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.6 (1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No No Rfc.
N 68645951494134For decoration, etc.
7.0 (1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No No Rfc.
N 69656052 - - -For decoration, etc.
7.0 (1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.0 (1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No No Rfc.
N 70666153 - - -For decoration, etc.
5.0 (3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.0 (1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No No Rfc.
N71------For decoration, etc.
7.0 (1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.6 (1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No No Rfc.
N 726762 - - - -For decoration, etc.
7.0 (1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.0 (1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No No Rfc.
N 73 68 - - - - - For decoration, etc.
7.0 (1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.0 (1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No No Rfc.
N 74696354 - - -For decoration, etc.
7.0 (1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No No Rfc.
N 7570645550 - -For decoration, etc.
7.0 (1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.6 (1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No No Rfc.
N 7671655651 - -For decoration, etc.
7.0 (1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.4 (1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No No Rfc.
Satin
stitches
N 777266 - - - -For decoration, etc.
7.0 (1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
0.4 (1/64)
0.1–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
Yes
( J )
No Rfc.
N 78736758 - - -For decoration, etc.
7.0 (1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
0.4 (1/64)
0.1–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
Yes
( J )
No Rfc.
N 79 74 - - - - - For decoration, etc.
7.0 (1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
0.4 (1/64)
0.1–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
Yes
( J )
No Rfc.
**Select a stitch width of 5.0 mm (3/16 inch) or less.
**
**
**
VARIOUS STITCHES ————————————————————————————————————————————————
—
40
Stitch Name
Pattern
Presser Foot
Pattern No.
Application
Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
Twin Needle
Walking Foot
Reverse
(
Rev.
)
/
Reinforcement
(
Rfc.
)
Stitching
100 stitches
model
90 stitches
model
80 stitches
model
70 stitches
model
60 stitches
model
50 stitches
model
40 stitches
model
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
Satin
stitches
N 80756859534335For decoration, etc.
7.0 (1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
0.4 (1/64)
0.1–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
Yes
( J )
No Rfc.
N81------For decoration, etc.
7.0 (1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
0.4 (1/64)
0.1–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
Yes
( J )
No Rfc.
N 82766960544436For decoration, etc.
7.0 (1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
0.4 (1/64)
0.1–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
Yes
( J )
No Rfc.
N 837770615545 -For decoration, etc.
7.0 (1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
0.4 (1/64)
0.1–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
Yes
( J )
No Rfc.
N 84787162564637For decoration, etc.
7.0 (1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
0.4 (1/64)
0.1–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
Yes
( J )
No Rfc.
N 85797263 - - -For decoration, etc.
7.0 (1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
0.4 (1/64)
0.1–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
Yes
( J )
No Rfc.
N 86807364 - - -For decoration, etc.
7.0 (1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
0.4 (1/64)
0.1–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
Yes
( J )
No Rfc.
N 878174575242 -For decoration, etc.
7.0 (1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
0.4 (1/64)
0.1–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
Yes
( J )
No Rfc.
N 88 82 - - - - - For decoration, etc.
7.0 (1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
0.4 (1/64)
0.1–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
Yes
( J )
No Rfc.
N89------For decoration, etc.
7.0 (1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
0.4 (1/64)
0.1–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
Yes
( J )
No Rfc.
N90------For decoration, etc.
7.0 (1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
0.4 (1/64)
0.1–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
Yes
( J )
No Rfc.
N91------For decoration, etc.
7.0 (1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
0.4 (1/64)
0.1–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
Yes
( J )
No Rfc.
N92------For decoration, etc.
7.0 (1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
0.4 (1/64)
0.1–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
Yes
( J )
No Rfc.
**
**
**
**
**
**
**
**
**
**
**Select a stitch width of 5.0 mm (3/16 inch) or less.
**
**
**
41
3
Character stitches (for models equipped with character stitches)
Stitch Name
Pattern
Presser Foot
Pattern No.
Application
Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
Twin Needle
Walking Foot
Reverse
(
Rev.
)
/
Reinforcement
(
Rfc.
)
Stitching
100 stitches
model
90 stitches
model
80 stitches
model
70 stitches
model
60 stitches
model
50 stitches
model
40 stitches
model
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
Cross-
stitches
N 93 83 - - - - - For decoration, etc.
6.0 (15/64)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.4 (1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No No Rfc.
N 94847565 - - -For decoration, etc.
7.0 (1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.6 (1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No No Rfc.
N 95857667574738For decoration, etc.
6.0 (15/64)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No No Rfc.
N 96 86 - - - - - For decoration, etc.
6.0 (15/64)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.4 (1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No No Rfc.
N 97877766 - - -For decoration, etc.
6.0 (15/64)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.4 (1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No No Rfc.
N 988878685848 -For decoration, etc.
6.0 (15/64)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.4 (1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No No Rfc.
N 99897969594939For decoration, etc.
6.0 (15/64)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.4 (1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No No Rfc.
Stitch Type
Presser Foot
Pattern No.
Twin Needle
Stitch width/
Stitch Length
Character stitches
N
01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10
No -
11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20
21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30
31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40
41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50
51 52 53 54 55
VARIOUS STITCHES ————————————————————————————————————————————————
—
42
OVERCASTING STITCHES
You can use the overcasting stitches to join together seams and finish them in one operation. They are also
useful for sewing stretch materials.
*Do not use reverse stitching. **Select a stitch width of 5.0 mm (3/16 inch) or less.
a
Attach overcasting foot “G” or zigzag foot “J”.
b
Select a stitch.
• For details, refer to “Selecting a stitch”
(page 28).
c
Position the fabric with the edge of the fabric
against the guide of the presser foot, and then
lower the presser foot lever.
a Guide
d
Sew with the edge of the fabric against the
presser foot guide.
a Needle drop point
Stitch Name
Pattern
Presser Foot
Pattern No.
Application
Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
Twin Needle
Walking Foot
Reverse
(
Rev.
)
/
Reinforcement
(
Rfc.
)
Stitching
100 stitches
model
90 stitches
model
80 stitches
model
70 stitches
model
60 stitches
model
50 stitches
model
40 stitches
model
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
Zigzag stitch J04040404040404
Overcasting and attach-
ing appliqués
3.5 (1/8)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.4 (1/16)
0.0–4.0
(0–3/16)
Yes
( J )
Yes Rev.
3-point zig-
zag stitch
J05050505050505
Overcasting on medium
weight or stretch fab-
rics, attaching elastic,
darning, etc.
5.0 (3/16)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
1.0 (1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
Yes
( J )
No Rfc.
Overcasting
stitch
G06060606060606
Overcasting on thin or
medium weight fabrics
3.5 (1/8)
2.5–5.0
(3/32–3/16)
2.0 (1/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
No No Rfc.
G07070707070707
Overcasting on thick
fabrics
5.0 (3/16)
2.5–5.0
(3/32–3/16)
2.5 (3/32)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
No No Rfc.
J08080808080808
Overcasting on stretch
fabrics
5.0 (3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
0.5–4.0
(1/32–3/16)
Yes
( J )
No Rfc.
J090909 - - - -
Overcasting on thick or
stretch fabrics
5.0 (3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
0.5–4.0
(1/32–3/16)
Yes
( J )
No Rfc.
● After adjusting the stitch width, slowly turn
the handwheel toward you
(counterclockwise) and check that the needle
does not touch the presser foot. If the needle
hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or
break.
1
CAUTION
*
**
**
**
**
43
3
BASIC STITCHING
Straight stitches are used for sewing plain seams. Three stitches are available for basic stitching.
*Do not use reverse stitching. **Select a stitch width of 5.0 mm (3/16 inch) or less.
Basic stitching
a
Baste or pin together the fabric pieces.
b
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
c
Select a stitch.
• For details, refer to “Selecting a stitch”
(page 28).
d
Lower the needle into the fabric at the
beginning of the stitching.
e
Start sewing.
• For details, refer to “Starting to sew”
(page 29).
• For details on sewing reverse/reinforcement
stitches, refer to “Sewing reinforcement
stitches” (page 30).
f
When sewing is finished, cut the thread.
• For details, refer to “Starting to sew”
(page 29).
■ Changing the needle position
With the straight stitch (left needle position) and
the triple stretch stitch, the needle position can be
adjusted. Pressing the “+” side of the stitch width
adjustment key moves the needle to the right;
pressing the “–” side of the stitch width
adjustment key moves the needle to the left.
a Stitch width adjustment key
b Left needle position
c Right needle position
Stitch Name
Pattern
Presser Foot
Pattern No.
Application
Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
Twin Needle
Walking Foot
Reverse
(
Rev.
)
/
Reinforcement
(
Rfc.
)
Stitching
100 stitches
model
90 stitches
model
80 stitches
model
70 stitches
model
60 stitches
model
50 stitches
model
40 stitches
model
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
Straight
Left J 00000000000000
Basic stitching, sewing
gathers or pintucks, etc.
0.0 (0)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
0.2–5.0
(1/64–3/16)
Yes
( J )
Yes Rev.
Center
J 01010101010101
Attaching zippers, basic
stitching, and sewing
gathers or pintucks, etc.
3.5 (1/8)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
0.2–5.0
(1/64–3/16)
Yes
( J )
Yes Rev.
Triple
stretch stitch
J 02020202020202
Attaching sleeves, sew-
ing inseams, sewing
stretch fabrics and deco-
rative stitching
0.0 (0)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
1.5–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
Yes
( J )
No Rfc.
*
*
**
**
**
VARIOUS STITCHES ————————————————————————————————————————————————
—
44
BLIND HEM STITCHING
You can use the Blind Hem Stitch to finish the edge of a project, like the hem of a pair of trousers, without the stitch showing.
a
Reverse the skirt or pants.
a Right side of fabric
b Bottom side
b
Fold the fabric along the desired edge of the
hem, and press.
a Wrong side of fabric
b Right side of fabric
c
Use a chalk to mark on the fabric about 5 mm
(3/16 inch) from the edge of the fabric, and
then baste it.
a Wrong side of fabric
b Right side of fabric
c Edge of fabric
d Basting stitching
e 5 mm (3/16 inch)
d
Fold back the fabric inside along the basting.
a Wrong side of fabric
b Edge of fabric
c Basting
d 5 mm (3/16 inch)
e
Unfold the edge of fabric, and position the
fabric with the wrong side facing up.
a Wrong side of fabric
b Basting
c Edge of fabric
f
Attach blind hem foot “R”.
g
Select a stitch.
Stitch Name
Pattern
Presser Foot
Pattern No.
Application
Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
Twin Needle
Walking Foot
Reverse
(
Rev.
)
/
Reinforcement
(
Rfc.
)
Stitching
100 stitches
model
90 stitches
model
80 stitches
model
70 stitches
model
60 stitches
model
50 stitches
model
40 stitches
mod
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
Blind hem
stitch
R 10101009090909
Blind hem stitching on
medium weight fabrics
0 (0)
-3m o3
2.0 (1/16)
1.0–3.5
(1/16–1/8)
No No Rfc.
R 11111110101010
Blind hem stitching on
stretch fabrics
0 (0)
-3m o3
2.0 (1/16)
1.0–3.5
(1/16–1/8)
No No Rfc.
a
b
2
1
2
1
2
< Seen from the side>
< Seen from the side>
1
2
1
3
4
< Seen from the side>
1
1
2
3
1
1
< Seen from the side>
45
3
h
Remove the flat bed attachment and make
free-arm sewing possible.
• For details on free-arm sewing, refer to
“Using a free-arm style” (page 34).
i
Slide the part that you wish to sew onto the
arm, make sure that the fabric feeds correctly,
and then start sewing.
a Arm
j
Position the fabric with the edge of the folded
hem against the guide of the presser foot, and
then lower the presser foot lever.
a Wrong side of fabric
b Fold of hem
c Guide
k
Adjust the stitch width until the needle
slightly catches the fold of the hem.
a Needle drop point
When you change the needle drop point, raise
the needle, and then change the stitch width.
a Stitch width
■ If the needle catches too much of the hem fold
If the needle catches too much of the hem fold,
adjust the stitch width so that the needle slightly
catches the fold by pressing the “+” side of the
stitch width adjustment key.
■ If the needle does not catch the hem fold
If the needle does not catch the hem fold, adjust
the stitch width so that the needle slightly catches
the fold by pressing the “-” side of the stitch width
adjustment key.
• For details on changing the stitch width,
refer to “Selecting a stitch” (page 28).
l
Sew with the fold of the hem against the
presser foot guide.
m
Remove the basting stitching and turn the
fabric right side up.
R
R
1
a
a Wrong side of fabric b Right side of fabric
a Wrong side of fabric b Right side of fabric
a Wrong side of fabric b Right side of fabric
1
2
VARIOUS STITCHES ————————————————————————————————————————————————
—
46
BUTTONHOLE SEWING
Buttonholes can be sewn and buttons can be sewn on.
*Auto Rfc.: Automatic Reinforcement
The maximum buttonhole length is about 28 mm (1-1/8 inch) (diameter + thickness of the button).
Buttonholes are sewn from the front of the presser foot to the back, as shown below.
Stitch Name
Pattern
Presser Foot
Pattern No.
Application
Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
Twin Needle
Walking Foot
Reverse
(
Rev.
)
/
Reinforcement
(
Rfc.
)
Stitching
100 stitches
model
90 stitches
model
80 stitches
model
70 stitches
model
60 stitches
model
50 stitches
model
40 stitches
model
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
Buttonhole
stitch
A 34343429292925
Horizontal buttonholes
on thin and medium
weight fabrics
5.0 (3/16)
3.0-5.0
(1/8-3/16)
0.5 (1/32)
0.2-1.0
(1/64-1/16)
No No
Auto
Rfc.
A 35353530303026
Secured buttoholes for
fabrics that have back-
ings
5.0 (3/16)
3.0–5.0
(1/8-3/16)
0.5 (1/32)
0.2–1.0
(1/64-1/16)
No No
Auto
Rfc.
A 36363631313127
Buttonholes for stretch or
knit fabrics
6.0 (15/64)
3.0–6.0
(1/8-15/64)
1.0 (1/16)
0.5–2.0
(1/32-1/16)
No No
Auto
Rfc.
A 37373732323228
Buttonholes for stretch
fabrics
6.0 (15/64)
3.0–6.0
(1/8-15/64)
1.5 (1/16)
1.0–3.0
(1/16-1/8)
No No
Auto
Rfc.
A383838––––Bound buttonholes
5.0 (3/16)
0.0–6.0
(0–15/64)
2.0 (1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64-3/16)
No No
Auto
Rfc.
A 39393933333329
Keyhole buttonholes for
thick or furry fabrics
7.0 (1/4)
3.0–7.0
(1/8-1/4)
0.5 (1/32)
0.3–1.0
(1/64-1/16)
No No
Auto
Rfc.
A 4040403434 – –
Keyhole buttonholes for
medium weight and thick
fabrics
7.0 (1/4)
3.0–7.0
(1/8-1/4)
0.5 (1/32)
0.3–1.0
(1/64-1/16)
No No
Auto
Rfc.
A 4141413535 – –
Keyhole buttonholes for
thick or furry fabrics
7.0 (1/4)
3.0–7.0
(1/8-1/4)
0.5 (1/32)
0.3–1.0
(1/64-1/16)
No No
Auto
Rfc.
Zigzag stitch
(for quilting)
J 4646464040 – –
Appliqué quilting, free-
motion quilting, satin
stitching, button sewing
3.5 (1/8)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.4 (1/16)
0.0-4.0
(0-3/16)
No Yes Rfc.
a Reinforcement stitching
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
47
3
The names of parts of buttonhole foot “A”, which is
used for sewing buttonholes, are indicated below.
a Button guide plate
b Presser foot scale
c Pin
d Marks on buttonhole foot
e 5 mm (3/16 inch)
a
Use chalk to mark the position and length of
the buttonhole on the fabric.
a Marks on fabric
b Buttonhole sewing
b
Pull out the button guide plate of buttonhole
foot “A”, and then insert the button that will
be put through the buttonhole.
X The size of the buttonhole is set.
■ If the button does not fit in the button guide
plate
Add together the diameter and thickness of
the button, and then set the button guide
plate to the calculated length. (The distance
between the markings on the presser foot
scale is 5 mm (3/16 inch).)
a Presser foot scale
b Length of buttonhole
(Diameter + thickness of button)
c 5 mm (3/16 inch)
Example: For a button with a diameter of 15 mm
(9/16 inch) and a thickness of 10 mm (3/8 inch),
the button guide plate should be set to 25 mm
(1 inch) on the scale.
a 10 mm (3/8 inch)
b 15 mm (9/16 inch)
c
Attach buttonhole foot “A”.
d
Select a stitch.
e
Position the fabric with the front end of the
buttonhole mark aligned with the red marks
on the sides of the buttonhole foot, and then
lower the presser foot lever.
Pass the upper thread down through the hole
in the presser foot.
a Mark on fabric
b Red marks on buttonhole foot
A
1
2
5
3
4
1
2
A
1
3
2
1
2
A
1
2
2
VARIOUS STITCHES ————————————————————————————————————————————————
—
48
• When lowering the presser foot, do not push
in the front of the presser foot, otherwise the
buttonhole will not be sewn with the correct
size.
a Do not reduce the gap.
f
Pull down the buttonhole lever as far as
possible.
a Buttonhole lever
The buttonhole lever is positioned behind the
bracket on the buttonhole foot.
a Buttonhole lever
b Bracket
g
Gently hold the end of the upper thread in
your left hand, and then start sewing.
X Once sewing is completed, the
machine automatically sews
reinforcement stitches, then stops.
h
Raise the presser foot lever, remove the
fabric, and cut the thread.
i
Raise the buttonhole lever to its original
position.
j
Insert a pin at the end of the buttonhole
stitching to prevent the stitching from being
cut, and then use a seam ripper to cut towards
the pin and open the buttonhole.
a Seam ripper
b Pin
For keyhole buttonholes, use a commercial
eyelet punch to make a hole in the rounded
end of the buttonhole, and then use the seam
ripper to cut open the buttonhole.
a Eyelet punch
• When using the eyelet punch, place thick
paper or some other protective sheet under
the fabric before punching the hole in the
fabric.
Memo
● Before sewing buttonholes, check the stitch
length and width by sewing a trial
buttonhole on a scrap piece of fabric.
● When opening the buttonhole with the seam
ripper, do not place your hands in the cutting
path, otherwise injuries may result if the seam
ripper slips. Do not use the seam ripper in any
other way than how it is intended.
1
2
1
CAUTION
49
3
■ Sewing buttonholes on stretch fabrics
When sewing buttonholes on stretch fabrics, use a
gimp thread.
a
Hook the gimp thread onto the part of
buttonhole foot “A” shown in the illustration
so that it fits into the grooves, and then
loosely tie it.
b
Attach buttonhole foot “A”.
c
Select a stitch or .
d
Adjust the stitch width to the thickness of the
gimp thread.
e
Lower the presser foot lever and the
buttonhole lever, and then start sewing.
f
When sewing is finished, gently pull the gimp
thread to remove any slack.
g
Use a handsewing needle to pull the gimp
thread to the wrong side of the fabric, and
then tie it.
h
With a seam ripper, cut the middle part of the
gimp thread remaining at the top end of the
buttonhole.
Trim off any excess of the gimp thread.
Button sewing
Buttons can be sewn on with the sewing machine.
Buttons with 2 or with 4 holes can be attached.
a
Measure the distance between the holes in the
button to be attached.
b
Raise the presser foot lever, and then slide the
feed dog position lever, located at the rear of
the machine on the base, to (to the right
as seen from the front of the machine).
a Feed dog position lever
(as seen from the rear of the machine)
X The feed dogs are lowered.
c
Attach presser foot “M”.
a Button fitting foot “M”
1
VARIOUS STITCHES ————————————————————————————————————————————————
—
50
d
Place a button between the presser foot and
the fabric.
• When attaching four-hole buttons, first sew
the two holes closest to you. Then, slide the
button so that the needle goes into the two
holes toward the rear of the sewing machine,
and then sew them in the same way.
e
Select a stitch . (With models not provided
with stitch , select stitch .)
f
Adjust the stitch width so that it is the same as
the distance between the holes in the button.
g
Set the stitch length to the shortest setting by
pressing the stitch length adjustment key.
h
Turn the handwheel toward you
(counterclockwise) to check that the needle
correctly goes into the two holes of the
button.
Adjust the stitch width to the distance between
the button holes.
i
Start sewing.
• After sewing for about 10 seconds at low
speed, press (reverse/reinforcement stitch
button) to sew reinforcement stitches.
j
Pull the upper thread at the end of the
stitching to the wrong side of the fabric, and
then tie it with the bobbin thread.
Use scissors to cut the upper thread and the
bobbin thread at the beginning of the stitching.
k
When you are finished attaching the button,
slide the feed dog position lever to (to
the left as seen from the front of the machine)
and turn the handwheel to raise the dogs.
• Normally, the feed dog position lever is
positioned at .
● When sewing, be sure that the needle does
not touch the button, otherwise the needle
may bend or break.
CAUTION
51
3
ZIPPER INSERTION
You can use the zipper foot to sew different types of zippers, and can easily position it to the right or left side of
the needle.
When sewing the right side of the zipper, attach the shank to the left pin of the zipper foot. When sewing the left
side of the zipper, attach the shank to the right pin of the zipper foot.
*Do not use reverse stitching. **Select a stitch width of 5.0 mm (3/16 inch) or less.
a Zipper foot
b Right pin for sewing the left side of the zipper
c Left pin for sewing the right side of the zipper
a
Select stitch .
b
Lower the presser foot lever and fix either the
left or right pin of the zipper foot onto the
shank.
c
Fold the edge of the material 2 cm (3/4 inch)
and place the zipper under the folded section.
Lower the needle into the notch located either
on the left or right side of the zipper foot.
d
Sew from the bottom of the zipper toward the
top on both sides. The needle should be
positioned on the zipper side of the foot for
best results.
e
To sew the opposite side of the zipper, release
the foot by pressing the button located at the
back of the presser foot, fit the zipper foot on
the other side of the zipper and continue
sewing using the other side notch.
Stitch Name
Pattern
Presser Foot
Pattern No.
Application
Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
Twin Needle
Walking Foot
Reverse
(
Rev.
)
/
Reinforcement
(
Rfc.
)
Stitching
100 stitches
model
90 stitches
model
80 stitches
model
70 stitches
model
60 stitches
model
50 stitches
model
40 stitches
model
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
Straight
stitch
(center)
I 01010101010101
Attaching zippers, basic
stitching, and sewing
gathers or pintucks, etc.
3.5 (1/8)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
0.2–5.0
(1/64–3/16)
Yes
( J )
Yes Rev.
● Turn the handwheel by hand to make sure the
needle does not hit the presser foot before
you start sewing. If you choose a different
stitch, the needle will hit the presser foot and
break the needle. You may also be injured.
1
2
3
CAUTION
● Make sure the needle does not hit the zipper
during sewing. If the needle hits the zipper,
the needle may break and you may be injured.
CAUTION
*
*
**
VARIOUS STITCHES ————————————————————————————————————————————————
—
52
SEWING STRETCH FABRICS AND ELASTIC TAPE
Stretch fabrics can be sewn and elastic tape can be attached.
*Select a stitch width of 5.0 mm (3/16 inch) or less.
Observe the corresponding precautions when performing each of the following stitching operations.
Stretch stitching
a
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
b
Select stitch .
c
Sew the fabric without stretching it.
Elastic attaching
When elastic tape is attached to the cuff or waist of a
piece of clothing, the finished dimensions will be that
of the stretched elastic tape. Therefore, it is necessary
that a suitable length of the elastic tape be used.
a
Pin the elastic tape to the wrong side of the
fabric.
Pin the elastic tape to the fabric at a few points to make
sure that the tape is uniformly positioned on the fabric.
a Elastic tape
b Pin
b
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
c
Select stitch .
d
Sew the elastic tape to the fabric while
stretching the tape so that it is the same length
as the fabric.
While pulling the fabric behind the presser foot
with your left hand, pull the fabric at the pin nearest
the front of the presser foot with your right hand.
Stitch Name
Pattern
Presser Foot
Pattern No.
Application
Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
Twin Needle
Walking Foot
Reverse
(
Rev.
)
/
Reinforcement
(
Rfc.
)
Stitching
100 stitches
mode
90 stitches
mode
80 stitches
mode
70 stitches
model
60 stitches
model
50 stitches
model
40 stitches
model
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
Stretch stitch J 03030303030303
Sewing stretch fabrics
and decorative stitching
1.0 (1/16)
1.0–3.0
(1/16–1/8)
2.5 (3/32)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
Yes
( J )
No Rfc.
3-point
zigzag stitch
J 05050505050505
Overcasting on medium
weight or stretch fabrics,
attaching elastic, darn-
ing, etc.
5.0 (3/16)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
1.0 (1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
Yes
( J )
No Rfc.
Elastic-
attaching
stitch
J 212121 - - - -
Attaching elastic to
stretch fabrics
4.0 (3/16)
0.0-7.0
(0-1/4)
1.0 (1/16)
0.2-4.0
(1/64-3/16)
Yes
( J )
No Rfc.
1
2
● When sewing, be sure that the needle does
not touch any pins, otherwise the needle may
bend or break.
CAUTION
*
*
53
3
APPLIQUÉ, PATCHWORK AND QUILT STITCHING
The stitches that can be used for sewing appliqués, patchwork and quilts are described below.
*Do not use reverse stitching. **Select a stitch width of 5.0 mm (3/16 inch) or less.
Appliqués
You can create an appliqué by cutting a different
piece of fabric into a shape and using it as a
decoration.
a
Baste the cut design to the fabric.
b
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
c
Select stitch .
Stitch Name
Pattern
Presser Foot
Pattern No.
Application
Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
Twin Needle
Walking Foot
Reverse
(
Rev.
)
/
Reinforcement
(
Rfc.
)
Stitching
100 stitches
mode
90 stitches
mode
80 stitches
mode
70 stitches
model
60 stitches
model
50 stitches
model
40 stitches
model
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
Zigzag stitch J 04040404040404
Overcasting and attach-
ing appliqués
3.5 (1/8)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.4 (1/16)
0.0–4.0
(0–3/16)
Yes
( J )
Yes Rfc.
Zigzag stitch
(for quilting)
J 4646464040 - -
Appliqué quilting, free-
motion quilting, satin
stitching
3.5 (1/8)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.4 (1/16)
0.0–4.0
(0–3/16)
No Yes Rfc.
Appliqué
stitch
J 12121211111111Appliqué stitching
3.5 (1/8)
2.5–7.0
(3/32–1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
1.6–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
Yes
( J )
No Rfc.
Appliqué
stitch
(for quilting)
J 4747474141 - -
Attaching appliqués and
binding
1.5 (1/16)
0.5–3.5
(1/32–1/8)
1.8 (1/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
No No Rfc.
J 4848484242 - -
Attaching appliqués and
binding
1.5 (1/16)
0.5–3.5
(1/32–1/8)
1.8 (1/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
No No Rfc.
Piecing
straight
stitch
J 4343433737 - -
Piecing straight stitching
(with a seam allowance
of 6.5mm from the right
edge of the presser foot)
5.5 (7/32)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.0 (1/16)
0.2–5.0
(1/64–3/16)
No Yes Rfc.
J 4444443838 - -
Piecing straight stitching
(with a seam allowance
of 6.5mm from the left
edge of the presser foot)
1.5 (1/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.0 (1/16)
0.2–5.0
(1/64–3/16)
No Yes Rfc.
Joining stitch
J 15151514141414
Patchwork stitching and
decorative stitching
4.0 (3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.2 (1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
Yes
( J )
No Rfc.
J 16161615151515
Patchwork stitching, dec-
orative stitching and sew-
ing overcasting on both
pieces of fabrics, such as
with tricot
5.0 (3/16)
2.5–7.0
(3/32–1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
Yes
( J )
No Rfc.
J 17171716161616
Patchwork stitching and
decorative stitching
5.0 (3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.2 (1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
Yes
( J )
No Rfc.
Hand-look
quilting
J 45454539393531
Straight stitch quilting
that looks hand-sewn
0.0 (0)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
No No Rfc.
Quilting
stippling
J 4949494343 - -
Quilting background
stitching (stippling)
7.0 (1/4)
1.0–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
1.6 (1/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
No No Rfc.
*
**
**
**
**
**
VARIOUS STITCHES ————————————————————————————————————————————————
—
54
d
Carefully sew around the edge of the design.
e
Cut away any fabric that is left outside the stitching.
f
Remove the basting, if necessary.
Memo
● Make reinforcing straight stitches at the
beginning and the end of stitching.
Patchwork (crazy quilt)
stitching
a
Fold the edge of the top piece of fabric and
place it over the lower piece.
b
Sew the two pieces of fabric together so the
pattern spans both pieces.
Piecing
Sewing together two pieces of fabric is called
“piecing”. The fabric pieces should be cut with a
6.5 mm (1/4 inch) seam allowance.
Sew a piecing straight stitch 6.5 mm (1/4 inch) from
either the right side or the left side of the presser foot.
a
Baste or pin along the seam allowance of the
fabric that you wish to piece together.
b
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
c
Select stitch or
.
d
Sew with the side of the presser foot aligned
with the edge of the fabric.
■ For a seam allowance on the right side
Align the right side of the presser foot with the
edge of the fabric, and sew using stitch .
a 6.5 mm (1/4 inch)
■ For a seam allowance on the left side
Align the left side of the presser foot with the
edge of the fabric, and sew using stitch .
a 6.5 mm (1/4 inch)
Memo
● To change the width of the seam allowance
(the needle position), adjust the stitch width.
For details, refer to “Changing the needle
position” (page 43).
● Be careful that the needle does not hit a pin
during sewing, as the needle can break. You
may also be injured.
CAUTION
1
1
55
3
Quilting
Sandwiching batting between the top and bottom
layers of fabric is called “quilting”. Quilts can easily
be sewn using the optional walking foot and the
optional quilting guide.
Note
● Only use the walking foot with straight or
zigzag stitches. Do not use other patterns.
Reverse stitches cannot be sewn with the
walking foot.
a
Baste the fabric to be quilted.
b
Remove the presser foot and the presser foot
holder.
• For details, refer to “Removing the presser
foot holder” (page 26).
c
Hook the connecting fork of the walking foot
onto the needle clamp screw, lower the
presser foot lever, and then use the presser
foot holder screw to attach the walking foot
to the presser bar.
a Connecting fork
b Needle clamp screw
c Presser foot holder screw
d
Select stitch , or .
e
Place one hand on each side of the presser
foot, and then evenly guide the fabric while
sewing.
Note
● When sewing with the walking foot, sew at
a speed between slow and medium.
■ Using the optional quilting guide
Use the quilting guide to sew parallel stitches that
are equally spaced.
a
Insert the stem of the quilter into the hole at
the rear of the walking foot or presser foot
holder.
Walking foot
Presser foot holder
b
Adjust the stem of the quilter so that the quilt
guide aligns with the seam that has already
been sewn.
● Use the screwdriver to tighten the screw
securely. If the screw is loose, the needle may
strike the presser foot and cause injury.
● Be sure to turn the handwheel toward the
front of the machine to check that the needle
does not strike the presser foot. If the needle
strikes the presser foot, injury may result.
CAUTION
VARIOUS STITCHES ————————————————————————————————————————————————
—
56
Free-motion quilting
With free-motion quilting, the feed dogs can be
lowered (using the feed dog position lever) so that
the fabric can be moved freely in any direction.
The optional quilting foot is needed for free-motion
quilting.
a
Remove the presser foot and the presser foot
holder.
• For details, refer to “Removing the presser
foot holder” (page 26).
b
Align the quilting foot with the lower-left side
of the presser bar.
The pin on the quilting foot should be
positioned over the needle clamp screw.
a Pin on quilting foot
b Presser foot holder screw
c Needle clamp screw
c
Hold the quilting foot in place with your right
hand, and then tighten the presser foot holder
screw using the screwdriver in your left hand.
a Presser foot holder screw
d
Slide the feed dog position lever, located at the
rear of the machine on the base, to (to
the right as seen from the front of the machine).
a Feed dog position lever
(as seen from the rear of the machine)
X The feed dogs are lowered.
e
Turn on the sewing machine, and then select a
stitch.
f
Use both hands to hold the fabric taut, then
move the fabric to follow the pattern.
Reinforcement stitches are sewn at the
beginning and end of sewing.
a Pattern
g
After sewing is finished, slide the feed dog
position lever to (to the left as seen from
the front of the machine) and turn the
handwheel to raise the dogs.
• Normally, the feed dog position lever is
positioned at .
● Be sure to securely tighten the screws with
the screwdriver, otherwise the needle may
touch the presser foot, causing it to bend or
break.
CAUTION
57
3
REINFORCEMENT STITCHING
Reinforce points that will be subject to strain, such as sleeve holes, inseams and pocket corners.
*Auto Rfc.: Automatic Reinforcement **Select a stitch width of 5.0 mm (3/16 inch) or less.
Triple stretch stitching
Use triple stretch stitching to reinforce sleeve holes
and inseams.
a
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
b
Select stitch .
c
Start sewing.
• For details, refer to “Starting to sew”
(page 29).
Bar tack stitching
Bar tacks are used to reinforce points subject to
strain, such as pocket corners and openings.
As an example, the procedure for sewing bar tacks at
pocket corners is described below.
a
Determine the desired length of the bar tack.
Set the button guide plate on buttonhole foot
“A” to the desired length. (The distance
between the markings on the presser foot scale
is 5 mm (3/16 inch).)
a Presser foot scale
b Length of bar tack
c 5 mm (3/16 inch)
• A bar tack with a maximum length of about
28 mm (1-1/8 inch) can be sewn.
b
Attach buttonhole foot “A”.
Stitch Name
Pattern
Presser Foot
Pattern No.
Application
Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
Twin Needle
Walking Foot
Reverse
(
Rev.
)
/
Reinforcement
(
Rfc.
)
Stitching
100 stitches
model
90 stitches
model
80 stitches
model
70 stitches
model
60 stitches
model
50 stitches
model
40 stitches
model
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
Triple
stretch stitch
J 02020202020202
Attaching sleeves, sew-
ing inseams, sewing
stretch fabrics and deco-
rative stitching
0.0 (0)
0.0-7.0
(0-1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
1.5-4.0
(1/16-3/16)
Yes
( J )
No Rfc.
Bar tack
stitch
A 42424236363430
Reinforcing openings
and areas where the
seam easily comes loose
2.0 (1/16)
1.0-3.0
(1/16-1/8)
0.4 (1/64)
0.3-1.0
(1/64-1/16)
No No
Auto
Rfc.
1
2
3
*
**
VARIOUS STITCHES ————————————————————————————————————————————————
—
58
c
Select stitch .
d
Position the fabric so that the opening of the
pocket faces toward you, and then lower the
presser foot lever so that the needle drops
2 mm (1/16 inch) in front of the pocket
opening.
a 2 mm (1/16 inch)
Pass the upper thread down through the hole
in the presser foot.
• When lowering the presser foot, do not push
in the front of the presser foot, otherwise the
bar tack will not be sewn with the correct
size.
a Do not reduce the gap.
e
Pull down the buttonhole lever as far as
possible.
a Buttonhole lever
The buttonhole lever is positioned behind the
bracket on the buttonhole foot.
a Buttonhole lever
b Bracket
f
Gently hold the end of the upper thread in
your left hand, and then start sewing.
X Once sewing is completed, the
machine automatically sews
reinforcement stitches, then stops.
g
Raise the presser foot lever, remove the
fabric, and cut the thread.
h
Raise the buttonhole lever to its original
position.
Memo
● If the fabric does not feed, for example,
because it is too thick, increase the stitch
length. For details, refer to “Selecting a
stitch” (page 28).
1
59
3
DECORATIVE STITCHING
Various decorative stitches can be sewn with this sewing machine.
Stitch Name
Pattern
Presser Foot
Pattern No.
Application
Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
Twin Needle
Walking Foot
Reverse
(
Rev.
)
/
Reinforcement
(
Rfc.
)
Stitching
100 stitches
model
90 stitches
model
80 stitches
model
70 stitches
model
60 stitches
model
50 stitches
model
40 stitches
model
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
Fagoting
stitch
J 19191917171717
Fagoting, smocking and
decorative stitching
5.0 (3/16)
0.0-7.0
(0-1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
1.0-4.0
(1/16-3/16)
Yes
( J )
No Rfc.
J 20202018181818
Fagoting, smocking and
decorative stitching
5.0 (3/16)
2.5-7.0
(3/32-1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
1.0-4.0
(1/16-3/16)
Yes
( J )
No Rfc.
Joining stitch
J 15151514141414
Patchwork stitching and
decorative stitching
4.0 (3/16)
0.0-7.0
(0-1/4)
1.2 (1/16)
0.2-4.0
(1/64-3/16)
Yes
( J )
No Rfc.
J 16161615151515
Patchwork stitching, deco-
rative stitching and sewing
overcasting on both pieces
of fabrics, such as with tricot
5.0 (3/16)
2.5-7.0
(3/32-1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
1.0-4.0
(1/16-3/16)
Yes
( J )
No Rfc.
J 17171716161616
Patchwork stitching and
decorative stitching
5.0 (3/16)
0.0-7.0
(0-1/4)
1.2 (1/16)
0.2-4.0
(1/64-3/16)
Yes
( J )
No Rfc.
Shell tuck
stitch
J 13131312121212Sell tuck stitching
4.0 (3/16)
0.0-7.0
(0-1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
0.2-4.0
(1/64-3/16)
Yes
( J )
No Rfc.
Smocking
stitch
J 181818 - - - -
Smocking stitching and
decorative stitching
5.0 (3/16)
0.0-7.0
(0-1/4)
1.6 (1/16)
1.0-4.0
(1/16-3/16)
Yes
( J )
No Rfc.
Satin scallop
stitch
N 14 14 14 13 13 13 13 Scallop stitching
5.0 (3/16)
2.5-7.0
(3/32-1/4)
0.5 (1/32)
0.1-1.0
(1/64-1/16)
Yes
( J )
No Rfc.
Decorative
stitch
J 22222219191919Decorative stitching
4.0 (3/16)
0.0-7.0
(0-1/4)
3.0 (1/8)
2.0-4.0
(1/16-3/16)
No No Rfc.
J 23232320202020Decorative stitching
4.0 (3/16)
0.0-7.0
(0-1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
1.0-4.0
(1/16-3/16)
Yes
( J )
No Rfc.
J 24 24 24 21 21 21 – Decorative stitching
5.5 (7/32)
0.0-7.0
(0-1/4)
1.6 (1/16)
1.0-4.0
(1/16-3/16)
Yes
( J )
No Rfc.
N
25 25 25 22 22 22 21
Decorative stitching and
elastic-attaching
5.0 (3/16)
1.5-7.0
(1/64-1/4)
1.0 (1/16)
0.2-4.0
(1/64-3/16)
Yes
( J )
No Rfc.
N 26262623232322
Lace sewing, decorative
hemming, heirloom
stitching, etc.
3.5 (1/8)
1.5-7.0
(1/16-1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
1.6-4.0
(1/16-3/16)
No No Rfc.
N 27272724242423
Decorative hemming,
heirloom stitching, etc.
6.0 (15/64)
1.5-7.0
(1/16-1/4)
3.0 (1/8)
1.5-4.0
(1/16-3/16)
No No Rfc.
N 282828252525 –
Decorative hemming on
thin, medium weight and
plain weave fabrics, heir-
loom stitching, etc.
5.0 (3/16)
1.5-7.0
(1/16-1/4)
3.5 (1/8)
1.5-4.0
(1/16-3/16)
No No Rfc.
N 29292926262624
Decorative hemming on
thin, medium weight and
plain weave fabrics, heir-
loom stitching, etc.
5.0 (3/16)
1.5-7.0
(1/16-1/4)
4.0 (3/16)
1.5-4.0
(1/16-3/16)
No No Rfc.
N 303030272727 –
Decorative hemming on
thin, medium weight and
plain weave fabrics, heir-
loom stitching, etc.
5.0 (3/16)
1.5-7.0
(1/16-1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
1.5-4.0
(1/16-3/16)
No No Rfc.
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
*Select a stitch width of 5.0 mm (3/16 inch) or less.
VARIOUS STITCHES ————————————————————————————————————————————————
—
60
Fagoting
Stitching across an open seam is called “fagoting”. It
is used on blouses and children's clothing. This stitch
is more decorative when thicker thread is used.
a
Use an iron to fold the two pieces of fabric
along their seams.
b
Baste the two pieces of fabric, separated by
about 4.0 mm (3/16 inch), onto thin paper or
a sheet of water-soluble stabilizer.
a Thin paper or water soluble stabilizer
b Basting stitching
c 4 mm (3/16 inch)
c
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
d
Select stitch or .
e
Set the stitch width to 7.0 mm (1/4 inch).
• For details, refer to “Selecting a stitch”
(page 28).
f
Sew with the center of the presser foot
aligned along the center of the two pieces of
fabric.
g
After sewing is finished, remove the paper.
Stitch Name
Pattern
Presser Foot
Pattern No.
Application
Stitch Width
[mm (inch.)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch.)]
Twin Needle
Walking Foot
Reverse
(
Rev.
)
/
Reinforcement
(
Rfc.
)
Stitching
100 stitches
model
90 stitches
model
80 stitches
model
70 stitches
model
60 stitches
model
50 stitches
model
40 stitches
model
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
Decorative
stitch
N 313131282828 –
Decorative hemming on
thin, medium weight and
plain weave fabrics, heir-
loom stitching, etc.
5.0 (3/16)
1.5-7.0
(1/16-1/4)
2.0 (1/16)
1.5-4.0
(1/16-3/16)
No No Rfc.
N323232––––
Decorative stitching,
smocking stitching, heir-
loom stitching, etc.
6.0 (15/64)
1.5-7.0
(1/16-1/4)
1.6 (1/16)
1.0-4.0
(1/16-3/16)
No No Rfc.
N333333––––
Decorative stitching,
smocking stitching, heir-
loom stitching, etc.
5.0 (3/16)
1.5-7.0
(1/16-1/4)
1.6 (1/16)
1.0-4.0
(1/16-3/16)
No No Rfc.
1
2
3
61
3
Scallop stitching
The wave-shaped repeating pattern that looks like
shells is called “scalloping”. It is used on the collars
of blouses and to decorate the edges of
handkerchiefs.
a
Attach monogramming foot “N”.
b
Select stitch .
c
Stitch along the edge of the fabric, making
sure not to sew directly on the edge of the
fabric.
• For better results, apply spray starch onto the
fabric and press with a hot iron before it is
sewn.
d
Trim along the stitches.
• Be careful not to cut the stitches.
Smocking
The decorative stitch created by stitching or
embroidering over gathers is called “smocking”. It is
used to decorate the front of blouses or cuffs.
The smocking stitch adds texture and elasticity to
fabric.
a
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
b
Select the straight stitch, and then adjust the
stitch length to 4.0 mm (3/16 inch) and loosen
the thread tension.
• For details, refer to “Selecting a stitch”
(page 28) and “Adjusting thread tension”
(page 31).
c
Sew parallel stitching at intervals of 1 cm
(3/8 inch).
a 1 cm (3/8 inch)
• Do not sew reverse/reinforcement stitches or
cut the thread.
d
Pull the bobbin threads to create gathers.
Smooth the gathers by ironing them.
e
Select stitch or .
f
Stitch between the straight stitches.
1
VARIOUS STITCHES ————————————————————————————————————————————————
—
62
g
Pull out the threads for the straight stitches.
Shell tuck stitching
The gathers that look like shells are called “shell
tucks”. They are used to decorate trims, the front of
blouses or cuffs made of thin fabrics.
a
Fold the fabric along the bias.
b
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
c
Select stitch , and then increase the thread
tension.
• For details, refer to “Selecting a stitch”
(page 28).
d
Sew while making sure that the needle drops
slightly off the edge of the fabric.
a Needle drop point
e
Unfold the fabric, and then iron the tucks
down to one side.
Joining
Decorative bridging stitches can be sewn over the
seam allowance of joined fabrics. This is used when
making a crazy quilt.
a
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
b
Sew together the right sides of the two pieces
of fabric, and then open up the seam
allowances.
a Wrong side of fabric
b 6.5 mm (1/4 inch) seam allowance
c Straight stitch
c
Select stitch , or .
d
Turn the fabric over so that the right side
faces up, and then sew over the seam with the
center of the presser foot aligned with the
seam.
a Right side of fabric
1
1
1
2
3
63
3
Heirloom stitching
When sewing with the wing needle, the needle holes
are enlarged, creating a lace-like decorative stitch.
This is used to decorate hems and tablecloths on thin
or medium weight fabrics in addition to plain weave
fabrics.
a
Insert the wing needle.
• Use a 130/705H 100/16 wing needle.
• For details on inserting a needle, refer to
“Replacing the needle” (page 22).
b
Attach monogramming foot “N”.
c
Select stitch , , , , , , or
.
d
Start sewing.
● The needle threader cannot be used with the
wing needle, otherwise the sewing machine
may be damaged. Manually pass the thread
through the eye of the needle from the front
to the back. For details, refer to “Upper
threading” (page 17).
● Select a stitch width of 6.0 mm (15/64 inch)
or less, otherwise the needle may bend or
break.
● After adjusting the stitch width, slowly turn
the handwheel toward you
(counterclockwise) and check that the needle
does not touch the presser foot. If the needle
hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or
break.
CAUTION
CAUTION
VARIOUS STITCHES ————————————————————————————————————————————————
—
64
SEWING CHARACTERS (for models equipped with character stitches)
55 characters can be sewn by following the procedure below.
Selecting characters
■ Selecting a character
[Example] Selecting stitch “C” (No. 03).
a
Turn on the sewing machine.
b
Press the character stitch key and confirm that
the character stitch indicator lights up.
a Character stitch key
b Character stitch indicator
Memo
● When you select a character, check that
there are no characters in memory.
a This indicator shows that no character is stored.
If there are any characters in memory,
delete them. (For details, refer to “Deleting
characters”
(page 66)
.)
c
Press (stitch selection keys) to select
pattern No. 03.
• For details, refer to step
c of
“Selecting a
stitch” (page 28)
.
d
Press the “+” side of (stitch width
adjustment key) to enter the selected
character.
a Stitch width adjustment key
X The following display is shown on the
LCD.
a Selected pattern No.
b The position of the selected pattern No.
c The total number of entered characters
e
Attach the presser foot indicated on the LCD.
a The presser foot to use
• For details, refer to
“Replacing the presser
foot” (page 25)
.
f
If you would like to only sew this single
character, start sewing.
If you would like to sew a sequence of
characters, go to step
a
a
on “Combining
characters” (page 65).
• For details on sewing characters, refer to
“Sewing the character stitches” (page 67).
ABC
ABC
a
N
N
65
3
■ Combining characters
You can easily sew names, messages, etc. by
combining the character stitches. Up to 35
characters can be combined.
[Example] Selecting stitches “COME”
(No. 03)+(No. 15)+(No. 13)+(No. 05)
a
Follow steps
a
through
e
in “Selecting a
character” (page 64) to select the first
character “C” (No. 03).
b
Press (stitch selection keys) to select the
next character, “O” (No. 15).
c
Press the “+” side of (stitch width
adjustment key) to enter the selected
character.
a Stitch width adjustment key
d
Repeat steps
b
and
c
to add “M” (No. 13)
and “E” (No. 05).
Memo
● To enter a space, select “ a”(No. 30).
e
When you have finished combining
characters, check the entered characters and
their order.
• For details on checking characters, refer to
“Checking characters” (page 66).
Memo
● A new character can only be added next to
the last character. You cannot insert a new
character between characters or before the
first character of the sequence.
f
After checking the entered characters, start
sewing.
• For details on sewing characters, refer to
“Sewing the character stitches” (page 67).
Memo
● The combination of characters will be
stored in memory even if you turn off the
machine.
■ Adding new characters after sewing
After sewing a combination of characters, you
can add characters to the combination using the
following method.
Memo
● When you have finished sewing, the pattern
No. of the first character in the current
combination is shown on the LCD.
a
Press the utility stitch key.
a Utility stitch key
b
Press the character stitch key.
a Character stitch key
c
Add new characters by following the
procedure described in “Combining
characters” (page 65).
X New characters are added next to the
last character of the combination.
N
N
N
N
N
ABC
ABC
N
VARIOUS STITCHES ————————————————————————————————————————————————
—
66
■ Making a new combination of characters after
sewing
Memo
● When you have finished sewing, the pattern
No. of the first character in the current
combination is shown on the LCD.
a
Select the first character of the new
combination.
b
Press the “+” side of (stitch width
adjustment key).
a Stitch width adjustment key
X The old combination of characters is
cleared from memory, and the pattern
No. shown in the LCD is entered as the
first character of a new combination.
c
Add characters by following the procedure
described in “Combining characters”
(page 65).
Checking characters
You can check the characters in a combination with
following method.
a
Press the “+” or “-” side of (stitch length
adjustment key) repeatedly.
This will display the characters that have been
entered one by one on the LCD.
You can check the pattern No. and position of
each character.
a Stitch length adjustment key
b The position of the selected pattern No.
c The total number of characters in the
combination
d Selected pattern No.
Deleting characters
You can delete characters from the combination.
a
Press “-” side of (stitch width
adjustment key) to delete the last character in
the combination.
a Stitch width adjustment key
X The last character will be deleted.
Memo
● Repeat step a to delete more characters.
● You can only delete the last character in a
combination.
N
N
N
N
N
67
3
Sewing the character stitches
All character stitches are sewn with monogramming
foot "N".
a
Select a character stitch.
• For details, refer to “Selecting characters”
(page 64)
b
Attach monogramming foot "N".
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 25).
c
Start sewing.
X The stitch is sewn in the direction
indicated by the arrow.
Memo
● When sewing characters, the machine
automatically sews reinforcement stitches
for each character.
● While sewing, the LCD shows the pattern
No. currently being sewn.
d
When you have finished sewing, use scissors
to trim off any excess threads at the beginning
of the stitching and between the characters.
VARIOUS STITCHES ————————————————————————————————————————————————
—
68
ADJUSTING STITCHES (for models equipped with character stitches)
Your stitch pattern may sometimes turn out poorly, depending on the type or thickness of fabric, the stabilizer
material used, sewing speed, etc. If your sewing does not turn out well, sew trial stitches using the same
conditions as the real sewing, and adjust the stitch pattern as shown below.
Memo
● The character stitches "034" (No. 31 + No.
34+ No. 35) are used for making
adjustments.
a
Attach monogramming foot "N".
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 25).
b
Combine the character stitches "034" (No. 31
+ No. 34 + No. 35).
• For details, refer to “Combining characters”
(page 65).
X When you have finished creating the
combination, the following is displayed
on the LCD.
c
Sew the combination of characters and check
how it turns out.
• For details, refer to “Sewing the character
stitches” (page 67).
A: Correctly sewn
(with proper spaces between characters)
B: Bunched or shapeless
(There is no space between characters.)
C: Overstretched
(The stitch “0” has a gap.)
If the pattern you sewed does not look like A,
use the following steps to adjust the stitches.
d
Select No. 59 (for making adjustments).
X The LCD goes into the stitch adjustment
mode. The total number of combined
characters (1) changes to
“--“.
e
Adjust the character stitches by pressing
(stitch length adjustment key).
Each press of “+” or “-” side of (stitch
length adjustment key) widens or narrows the
stitches.
a No. for making adjustments
b The stitch adjustment level
c Widens the stitches
d Narrows the stitches
If the pattern is bunched (B)
Press the “+” side of (stitch length
adjustment key) to widen the stitch.
If the pattern is overstretched
(The stitch “0” has a gap.) (C)
Press the “-” side of (stitch length
adjustment key) to narrow the stitch.
Memo
● The stitch adjustment level can be set
between -9 and 9.
● The setting is saved in memory even if you
turn off the machine.
N
A
B
C
69
3
f
Sew the characters “034” again.
Memo
● You can sew when you are in the stitch
adjustment mode.
If the stitch pattern still comes out poorly,
adjust the stitch again. Adjust the stitch until
the stitch pattern comes out correctly.
g
After you have finished adjusting the pattern,
press the utility stitch key once, and then
press the character stitch key.
X The display returns to the normal
character stitching mode.
N
APPENDIX ————————————————————————————————————————————————————
—
70
4 APPENDIX
MAINTENANCE
Simple sewing machine maintenance operations are described below.
Cleaning the machine
surface
If the surface of the machine is dirty, lightly soak a
cloth in neutral detergent, squeeze it out firmly, and
then wipe the surface of the machine. After cleaning
it once with a wet cloth, wipe it again with a dry
cloth.
Cleaning the bobbin case
Sewing performance will suffer if dust collects in the
bobbin case; therefore, it should be cleaned
periodically.
a
Switch the machine off and unplug it.
b
Raise the needle and the presser foot.
c
Loosen the presser-foot screw and the needle
clamp screw to remove the presser-foot
holder and the needle.
d
Grasp both sides of the needle plate cover,
and then slide it toward you to remove the
needle plate cover.
a Needle plate cover
● Unplug the power supply cord before
cleaning the machine, otherwise injuries or an
electric shock may occur.
CAUTION
● Make sure you unplug the machine before
you clean it. Otherwise, you may get an
electric shock or be injured.
CAUTION
71
4
e
Remove the bobbin case.
Grasp the bobbin case, and then pull it out.
a Bobbin case
f
Use the cleaning brush or a vacuum cleaner to
remove any dust from the race and its
surrounding area.
a Cleaning brush
b Race
• Do not put oil on the bobbin case.
g
Insert the bobbin case so that the S mark on
the bobbin case aligns with the z mark on the
race.
• Align the S and
z marks.
a S mark
b
z mark
• Make sure that the indicated points are
aligned before installing the bobbin case.
h
Put the tabs on the needle plate cover into the
needle plate, and then slide the cover back on.
1
● Never use a bobbin case that is scratched,
otherwise the upper thread may become
tangled, the needle may break or sewing
performance may suffer. For a new bobbin
case (part code: XE7560-001), contact your
nearest authorized service center.
● Make sure that you fit the bobbin case
properly, otherwise the needle may break.
CAUTION
APPENDIX ————————————————————————————————————————————————————
—
72
TROUBLESHOOTING
If the machine stops operating correctly, check the following possible problems before requesting service.
You can solve most problems by yourself. If you need additional help, the Brother Solutions Center offers the
latest FAQs and troubleshooting tips. Visit us at [http://solutions.brother.com].
If the problem persists, contact your dealer or the nearest authorized service center.
Symptom Possible cause How to put it right Reference
The sewing
machine does
not work.
The machine is not plugged in. Plug the machine in. page 9
The main power switch is turned off. Turn on the main power switch. page 9
The bobbin winder shaft is pushed to
the right.
Move the bobbin winder shaft to the
left.
page 13, 14
You have not used the foot control-
ler properly.
Use the foot controller properly. page 10
The needle
breaks.
The needle is not fitted properly. Fit the needle properly. page 22
The needle clamp screw is loose.
Use the screwdriver to firmly tighten
the screw.
page 23
The needle is bent or blunt. Replace the needle. page 22
You have not used the right combi-
nation of fabric, thread and needle.
Choose a thread and needle that are
appropriate for the type of fabric.
page 21
The presser foot you are using is not
appropriate for the type of stitch that
you want to sew.
Attach the presser foot that is correct
for the type of stitch that you want to
sew.
page 35
The upper thread tension is too tight. Loosen the upper thread tension. page 31
You are pulling the fabric too much. Lightly guide the fabric. –
The area around the hole in the nee-
dle plate is scratched.
Replace the needle plate.
Contact your retailer or the nearest
authorized service center.
–
The area around the hole in the
presser foot is scratched.
Replace the presser foot.
Contact your retailer or the nearest
authorized service center.
–
The bobbin case is scratched.
Replace the bobbin case.
Contact your retailer or the nearest
authorized service center.
–
You have not used a bobbin that has
been designed for this machine.
Incorrect bobbins will not work
properly. Only use a bobbin that has
been designed for this machine.
page 12
The upper
thread breaks.
You have not threaded the upper
thread properly. (for example, you
have not fitted the spool properly, or
the thread has come out of the guide
above the needle.)
Correct the upper threading. page 17
There are knots or tangles in the
thread.
Remove any knots or tangles. –
The needle is not appropriate for the
thread you are using.
Choose a needle that is appropriate
for the type of stitch.
page 21
The upper thread tension is too tight. Loosen the upper thread tension. page 31
The thread is tangled, for example,
in the bobbin case.
Remove the tangle thread. If the
thread is tangled in the bobbin case,
clean the bobbin case.
page 70
The needle is bent or blunt. Replace the needle. page 22
73
4
The upper
thread breaks.
You have not inserted the needle
properly.
Insert the needle properly. page 22
The area around the hole in the nee-
dle plate is scratched.
Replace the needle plate.
Contact your retailer or the nearest
authorized service center.
–
The area around the hole in the
presser foot is scratched.
Replace the presser foot.
Contact your retailer or the nearest
authorized service center.
–
The bobbin case is scratched, or has
a burr on it.
Replace the bobbin case.
Contact your retailer or the nearest
authorized service center.
–
You have not used a bobbin that has
been designed for this machine.
Incorrect bobbins will not work
properly. Only use a bobbin that has
been designed for this machine.
page 12
The lower
thread is tangled
or breaks.
You have not wound the bobbin
thread properly.
Wind the bobbin thread properly. page 12
The bobbin is scratched or does not
turn smoothly.
Replace the bobbin. –
The thread is tangled.
Remove the tangled thread and
clean the bobbin case.
page 70
You have not used a bobbin that has
been designed for this machine.
Incorrect bobbins will not work
properly. Only use a bobbin that has
been designed for this machine.
page 12
Bobbin is set incorrectly. Reset the bobbin thread correctly. page 15, 16
The thread is
tangled on the
wrong side of
the fabric.
The upper thread was not threaded
correctly.
Correct the upper threading. page 17
The thread
tension is
incorrect.
You have not threaded the upper
thread properly.
Correct the upper threading. page 17
You have not wound the bobbin
thread properly.
Wind the bobbin thread properly. page 12
You have not threaded the right
combination of thread and needle
for the fabric you are using.
Choose a thread and needle that are
appropriate for the type of fabric.
page 21
You have not attached the presser
foot holder properly.
Attach the presser foot holder
properly.
page 26
The thread tension is incorrect.
Adjust the tension of the upper
thread.
page 31
You have not used a bobbin that has
been designed for this machine.
Incorrect bobbins will not work
properly. Only use a bobbin that has
been designed for this machine.
page 12
Bobbin is set incorrectly. Reset the bobbin thread correctly. page 15, 16
The upper
thread is too
tight.
The bobbin thread is incorrectly
installed.
Correctly install the bobbin thread. page 15
The fabric is
wrinkled.
You have not threaded the upper thread
properly or fitted the bobbin properly.
Thread the upper thread and wind
the bobbin thread properly.
page 15, 16, 17
You have not fitted the spool properly. Fit the spool properly. –
You have not used the right combina-
tion of fabric, thread and needle.
Choose a thread and needle that are
appropriate for the type of fabric.
page 21
The needle is bent or blunt. Replace the needle. page 22
Symptom Possible cause How to put it right Reference
APPENDIX ————————————————————————————————————————————————————
—
74
The fabric is
wrinkled.
If you are sewing thin fabric, the
stitch is too thick.
Sew with stabilizer material under
the fabric.
page 34
The thread tension is incorrect. Adjust the tension of the upper thread. page 31
Stitches are
skipped.
You have not threaded the upper
thread properly.
Correct the upper threading. page 17
You have not used the right combi-
nation of fabric, thread and needle.
Choose a thread and needle that are
appropriate for the type of fabric.
page 21
The needle is bent or blunt. Replace the needle.
page 22
You have not inserted the needle properly.
Insert the needle properly.
Dust has accumulated under the
needle plate or in the bobbin case.
Remove the needle plate cover and
clean the plate and the bobbin case.
page 70
There is a high-
pitched noise
while sewing.
Dust has built up in the feed dogs or
in the bobbin case.
Clean the bobbin case. page 70
You have not threaded the upper
thread properly.
Correct the upper threading. page 17
The bobbin case is scratched.
Replace the bobbin case.
Contact your retailer or the nearest
authorized service center.
–
You have not used bobbin that has
been designed for this machine.
Incorrect bobbins will not work
properly. Only use a bobbin that has
been designed for this machine.
page 12
The needle
threader can not
be used.
You have not moved the needle
holder to its highest position.
Raise the needle either by turning the
handwheel toward you
(counterclockwise) so that the mark on
the wheel points up or by pressing
(needle position button) once or twice.
page 17
You have not inserted the needle properly.
Insert the needle properly. page 22
The stitch is not
sewn correctly.
The presser foot that you are using is
not correct for the type of stitch.
Attach the presser foot that is correct for
the type of stitch that you want to sew.
page 35
The thread tension is incorrect.
Adjust the tension of the upper
thread.
page 31
The thread is tangled, for example,
in the bobbin case.
Remove the tangled thread. If the
thread is tangled in the bobbin case,
clean the bobbin case.
page 70
The stitch adjustment level is
incorrect.
Adjust the stitch. page 68
The fabric does
not feed.
The feed dogs are lowered.
Slide the feed dog position lever to .
page 49, 56
The stitch is too fine. Lengthen the stitch length. page 28
You have not used the right combi-
nation of fabric, thread and needle.
Choose a thread and needle that are
appropriate for the type of fabric.
page 21
The thread is tangled, for example,
in the bobbin case.
Remove the tangle thread. If the
thread is tangled in the bobbin case,
clean the bobbin case.
page 70
The sewing light
bulb does not
come on.
The sewing lamp is damaged.
Contact your retailer or the nearest
authorized service center.
–
Symptom Possible cause How to put it right Reference
75
4
ERROR MESSAGES
If an operation is performed incorrectly before the sewing machine is set up, an error message appears on the
operation panel. Follow the instructions indicated in the table.
If you press the stitch selection key or do the operation correctly while the error message is displayed, the
message disappears.
Note
● If error message “F1” through “F9” appears in the LCD while the sewing machine is being used, the
machine may be malfunctioning. Contact your nearest authorized service center.
Operation beep (for models equipped with the operation beep)
Each time a key is pressed you will hear one beep. If a non-functioning key is pressed or an incorrect operation
is performed you will hear two or four beeps (only for models equipped with the operation beep).
■ If a key is pressed (correct operation)
One beep sounds.
■ If an incorrect operation is performed or a non-functioning key is pressed
Two or four beeps sound.
■ If the machine locks up, for example, because the thread is tangled
The sewing machine beeps for four seconds and the machine automatically stops. Be sure to check for the
cause of the error, and correct it before continuing to sew.
Error Message Probable Cause Solution
The foot controller was pressed (or the start/stop but-
ton was pressed if the foot controller is not con-
nected) and the reverse/reinforcement stitch button
was pressed while the presser foot is raised.
Lower the presser foot lever
before continuing the opera-
tion.
A stitch other than the buttonhole or bar tack stitch
was selected and the foot controller was pressed (or
the start/stop button was pressed if the foot controller
is not connected) while the buttonhole lever is low-
ered.
Raise the buttonhole lever
before continuing the opera-
tion.
The buttonhole or bar tack stitch was selected and
the foot controller was pressed (or the start/stop but-
ton was pressed if the foot controller is not con-
nected) while the buttonhole lever is raised.
Lower the buttonhole lever
before continuing the opera-
tion.
The reverse/reinforcement stitch button or needle
position button was pressed while the bobbin winder
shaft is moved to the right.
Move the bobbin winder
shaft to the left before con-
tinuing the operation.
The start/stop button was pressed while the foot con-
troller was connected.
Disconnect the foot control-
ler, and then press the start/
stop button. Otherwise,
operate the machine by
using the foot controller.
The motor locked up because the thread is tangled.
Remove the tangled thread
before continuing the opera-
tion.
APPENDIX ————————————————————————————————————————————————————
—
76
i
INDEX
Numerics
3-point zigzag stitch .......................................................42
A
accessories .......................................................................8
adjusting stitches ............................................................68
appliqués .......................................................................53
B
bar tack ..........................................................................57
basic stitching ................................................................43
blind hem stitching.........................................................44
bobbin ...........................................................................15
bobbin case....................................................................70
bobbin cover.............................................................6
, 15
bobbin winder..................................................12
, 72, 75
button sewing.................................................................49
buttonhole foot...............................................................47
buttonhole lever .................................................6
, 48, 58
buttonhole sewing..........................................................46
C
character stitch indicator ...........................................7, 64
character stitch key ...................................................7
, 64
checking characters........................................................66
combining characters .....................................................65
crazy quilt stitching ........................................................54
D
darning....................................................................42, 52
deleting characters .........................................................66
E
elastic tape .....................................................................52
error messages................................................................75
extra spool pin ...............................................................24
eyelet punch ..................................................................48
F
fagoting ..........................................................................60
feed dog position lever ...................................................56
feed dogs...................................................................6
, 56
flat bed attachment....................................................7
, 34
foot controller ...........................................................8
, 30
free-arm style .................................................................34
free-motion quilting........................................................56
H
handwheel .......................................................................5
heirloom stitching ..........................................................63
hook-and-loop fastener ..................................................33
J
joining............................................................................62
joining stitch ...........................................................53
, 59
M
main parts ........................................................................5
main power switch...........................................................9
monogramming.......................................................61
, 63
N
needle ............................................................................21
needle bar thread guide....................................................6
needle clamp screw ..................................................6
, 23
needle plate .....................................................................6
needle plate cover..........................................................70
needle position...............................................................43
needle position button......................................................6
needle threader ..............................................................18
O
openings ........................................................................57
operation beep ........................................................11
, 75
operation buttons .............................................................6
operation panel ................................................................7
optional accessories .........................................................8
overcasting stitches ........................................................42
P
patchwork stitching ........................................................54
piecing...........................................................................54
pocket corners................................................................57
presser foot................................................................6
, 25
presser foot holder.....................................................6
, 26
presser foot lever .......................................................6
, 17
pre-tension disk..............................................................12
Q
quick-set bobbin .......................................................6, 16
quilting...........................................................................55
quilting foot....................................................................56
quilting guide .................................................................55
R
reinforcement stitching...................................................57
reverse/reinforcement stitch button...................................6
S
scallop stitching .............................................................61
seam ripper ....................................................................48
sewing machine needles ................................................21
sewing speed controller....................................................6
sewing the character stitches ..........................................67
sleeve holes....................................................................57
smocking........................................................................61
spool pin .................................................................12
, 17
start/stop button.........................................................6
, 30
stitch length....................................................................28
stitch selection key .............................................7
, 28, 65
stitch width ....................................................................28
straight stitch ..................................................................43
stretch fabrics .................................................................34
77
T
thick fabrics....................................................................32
thin fabrics .....................................................................34
thread cutter...................................................................30
thread guide ...................................................................17
thread tension ................................................................31
trial sewing.....................................................................32
triple stretch stitch ..........................................................43
troubleshooting ..............................................................72
twin needle ....................................................................24
U
upper tension-control dial ..............................................31
upper threading..............................................................17
utility stitch indicator.................................................7
, 28
utility stitch key .........................................................7
, 28
W
walking foot ...................................................................55
wing needle ...................................................................63
Z
zigzag stitch .....................................................32, 42, 53
zipper foot......................................................................51
zipper Insertion ..............................................................51
English
885-S39
Printed in China
XE7680-301
3
… 78

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