Handleiding Brother J17S (pagina 21 van 47) (Engels)

Operation Manual

Product Code: 888-X64/X74/X84/X67/X77/X87

Sewing Machine

English

888-X64/X74/X84/X67/X77/X87

Printed in Vietnam

Be sure to read this document before using the machine.

We recommend that you keep this document nearby for future reference.

Please visit us at http://support.brother.com where you can get product

support and answers to frequently asked questions (FAQs).

Black

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1

IMPORTANT SAFETY

INSTRUCTIONS

Please read these safety instructions

before attempting to use the machine.

DANGER

- To reduce the risk of electric shock:

1 Always unplug the machine from

the electrical outlet immediately after

using, when cleaning, when making

any user servicing adjustments

mentioned in this manual, or if you are

leaving the machine unattended.

WARNING

- To reduce the risk of burns, fire,

electric shock, or injury to persons.

2 Always unplug the machine from

the electrical outlet when making any

adjustments mentioned in the

instruction manual:

• To unplug the machine, switch the

machine to the symbol “O” position

to turn it off, then grasp the plug and

pull it out of the electrical outlet. Do

not pull on the cord.

• Plug the machine directly into the

electrical outlet. Do not use an

extension cord.

• Always unplug your machine if the

power is cut.

3 Electrical Hazards:

• This machine should be connected to

an AC power source within the range

indicated on the rating label. Do not

connect it to a DC power source or

inverter. If you are not sure what kind

of power source you have, contact a

qualified electrician.

• This machine is approved for use in

the country of purchase only.

4 Never operate this machine if it has

a damaged cord or plug, if it is not

working properly, if it has been

dropped or damaged, or water is spilled

on the unit. Return the machine to the

nearest authorized Brother dealer or

service center for examination, repair,

electrical or mechanical adjustment.

• While the machine is stored or in use

if you notice anything unusual, such

as an odor, heat, discoloration or

deformation, stop using the machine

and immediately unplug the power

cord.

• When transporting the machine, be

sure to carry it by its handle. Lifting

the machine by any other part may

damage the machine or result in the

machine falling, which could cause

injuries.

• When lifting the machine, be careful

not to make any sudden or careless

movements, otherwise you may

injure your back or knees.

5 Always keep your work area clear:

• Never operate the machine with any

air openings blocked. Keep

ventilation openings of the machine

and foot control free from the build

up of lint, dust, and loose cloth.

• Do not store objects on the foot

controller.

• Do not use extension cords. Plug the

machine directly into the electrical

outlet.

• Never drop or insert any object into

any opening.

• Do not operate where aerosol (spray)

products are being used or where

oxygen is being administered.

2

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• Do not use the machine near a heat

source, such as a stove or iron;

otherwise, the machine, power cord

or garment being sewn may ignite,

resulting in fire or an electric shock.

• Do not place this machine on an

unstable surface, such as an unsteady

or slanted table, otherwise the

machine may fall, resulting in

injuries.

6 Special care is required when

sewing:

• Always pay close attention to the

needle. Do not use bent or damaged

needles.

• Keep fingers away from all moving

parts. Special care is required around

the machine needle.

• Do not turn on the machine while

pressing down the foot controller.

The machine may start unexpectedly

and cause personal injury or damage

to the machine.

• Switch the machine to the symbol

“O” position to turn it off when

making any adjustments in the needle

area.

• Do not use a damaged or incorrect

needle plate, as it could cause the

needle to break.

• Do not push or pull the fabric when

sewing, and follow careful instruction

when freehand stitching so that you

do not deflect the needle and cause it

to break.

7 This machine is not a toy:

• Your close attention is necessary

when the machine is used by or near

children.

• The plastic bag that this machine was

supplied in should be kept out of the

reach of children or disposed of.

Never allow children to play with the

bag due to the danger of suffocation.

• Do not use outdoors.

8 For a longer service life:

• When storing this machine, avoid

direct sunlight and high humidity

locations. Do not use or store the

machine near a space heater, iron,

halogen lamp, or other hot objects.

• Use only neutral soaps or detergents

to clean the case. Benzene, thinner,

and scouring powders can damage

the case and machine, and should

never be used.

• Always consult the operation manual

when replacing or installing any

assemblies, the presser feet, needle,

or other parts to assure correct

installation.

9 For repair or adjustment:

• If the light unit (light-emitting diode)

is damaged, it must be replaced by

authorized Brother Service Center.

• In the event a malfunction occurs or

adjustment is required, first follow the

troubleshooting table in the back of

the operation manual to inspect and

adjust the machine yourself. If the

problem persists, please consult your

local authorized Brother Service

Center.

Use this machine only for its intended

use as described in this manual.

Use accessories recommended by the

manufacturer as contained in this manual.

The contents of this manual and

specifications of this product are

subject to change without notice.

For additional product information,

visit our web site at www.brother.com

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3

SAVE THESE

INSTRUCTIONS

This machine is intended

for household use.

FOR USERS IN COUNTRIES

EXCEPT EUROPEAN

COUNTRIES

This appliance is not intended

for use by persons (including

children) with reduced physical,

sensory or mental capabilities,

or lack of experience and

knowledge, unless they have

been given supervision or

instruction concerning use of

the appliance by a person

responsible for their safety.

Children should be supervised

to ensure that they do not play

with the appliance.

FOR USERS IN EUROPEAN

COUNTRIES

This appliance can be used by

children aged from 8 years and

above and persons with reduced

physical, sensory or mental

capabilities or lack of

experience and knowledge if

they have been given

supervision or instruction

concerning use of the appliance

in a safe way and understand

the hazards involved. Children

shall not play with the

appliance. Cleaning and user

maintenance shall not be made

by children without supervision.

FOR USERS IN THE UK,

EIRE, MALTA AND

CYPRUS ONLY

IMPORTANT

• In the event of replacing the plug

fuse, use a fuse approved by ASTA to

BS 1362, i.e. carrying the mark,

rating as marked on plug.

• Always replace the fuse cover. Never

use plugs with the fuse cover omitted.

• If the available electrical outlet is not

suitable for the plug supplied with this

equipment, you should contact your

authorized Brother Service Center to

obtain the correct lead.

4

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CONTENTS

IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS .......... 1

1. KNOWING YOUR SEWING

MACHINE ..................................5

ACCESSORIES ................................................ 5

Optional accessories .......................................... 5

THE MAIN PARTS .......................................... 6

Flat bed attachment ............................................ 6

USING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ................ 7

Connecting plugs ................................................ 7

Main power and sewing light switch .................. 8

Foot controller .................................................... 8

Checking the needle ........................................... 8

Replacing the needle .......................................... 8

Changing the presser foot ................................. 10

THE CONTROLS .......................................... 11

Pattern selection dial ........................................ 11

Patterns and stitch names ................................. 11

Reverse sewing lever ........................................ 12

THREADING THE MACHINE ....................... 13

Winding the bobbin ......................................... 13

Lower threading ............................................... 15

Lower threading (for models equipped with a

quick-set bobbin) .............................................. 16

Upper threading ............................................... 17

Using the needle threader (for models equipped

with a needle threader) ..................................... 19

Drawing up the lower thread ............................ 21

FABRIC, THREAD, AND NEEDLE

COMBINATIONS ......................................... 22

2. SEWING BASICS .......................23

Please read before sewing ................................ 23

Starting sewing ................................................. 23

Trial sewing ...................................................... 24

Changing the sewing direction ......................... 24

Sewing thick fabrics .......................................... 24

Sewing thin fabrics ........................................... 25

Sewing stretch fabrics ....................................... 25

Stitching cylindrical pieces ............................... 25

Sewing with a twin needle (Option) .................. 25

Thread tension .................................................. 27

3. BUILT-IN STITCHES ................. 29

Straight stitching ................................................29

Zigzag stitching .................................................29

Blind hem stitching ...........................................30

Overedge stitching ............................................31

Elastic stitching .................................................31

Double action stitching .....................................32

4. SEWING BUTTONHOLES ........ 33

Making a buttonhole .........................................33

Adjusting buttonholes .......................................34

5. USING ATTACHMENTS AND

APPLICATIONS ....................... 35

Zipper insertion .................................................35

Gathering ..........................................................36

Appliqués ..........................................................36

USING OPTIONAL ACCESSORIES ............... 37

Sewing buttons ..................................................37

Darning .............................................................38

Using the blind stitch foot .................................39

6. APPENDIX ................................ 40

MAINTENANCE ............................................ 40

Restrictions on oiling .........................................40

Precautions on storing the machine ...................40

Cleaning ...........................................................40

TROUBLESHOOTING .................................. 42

INDEX .......................................................... 45

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5

1 KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE

ACCESSORIES

We have designed these accessories to help you easily perform most sewing tasks.

Note

● The included accessories vary depending on the machine model.

Optional accessories

The following are available as optional accessories to be purchased separately. Depending on the model you

purchased, the following accessory may be included with your machine.

Note

● The quilting guide can be inserted into the holes at the back of the walking foot or the black plastic hole

at the top of sewing ankle.

1. 2. 3. 4. 5.

6. 7.

J

A

I

No. Part Name

Part Code

Americas Others

1

Zigzag foot “J” (on machine)

XC4901-121

2 Buttonhole foot “A” X59369-321

3 Zipper foot “I” XE9369-001

4

Bobbin (One is on machine)

SA156

SFB: XA5539-151

5

Needle set

(90/14 needle)

3-piece set: XE5328-001

2-piece set: XE7064-001

6 Screwdriver XF3557-001

7 Foot controller See page 6

No. Part Name

Part Code

Americas Others

1. 2. 3. 4. 5.

6. 7. 8. 9. 10.

M

No. Part Name

Part Code

Americas

Others

1 Extra spool pin XG3488-001

2

Twin needle

(2.0/75 needle)

X57521-021

3 Darning Plate XC6063-021

4 Button sewing foot “M” XE2137-001

5 Walking Foot SA107

F034N: XC2165-002

6 Quilting Foot SA129

F005N: XC1948-052

7 1/4-inch Quilting Foot SA125

F001N:

XC1944-052

8 Narrow Hemmer Foot SA127

F003N:

XC1945-052

9 Blind Stitch Foot SA134

F018N:

XC1976-052

10 Quilting guide SA132

F016N:

XC2215-052

No. Part Name

Part Code

Americas

Others

6

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1

THE MAIN PARTS

1 Bobbin winder (Page 13)

This winds the thread onto the bobbin for use as the

lower thread.

2 Spool pin (Page 13, 17)

This holds the spool of thread.

3 Thread guide (Page 13, 17)

This is used when winding the thread onto the

bobbin and then threading the machine.

4 Thread take-up lever (Page 18)

5 Hole for extra spool pin (Page 26)

This holds a second spool of thread for sewing with

the twin needle.

6 Upper tension-control dial (Page 27)

This controls the tension of the upper thread.

7 Thread cutter (Page 24)

Pass the threads through the thread cutter to cut them.

8 Needle threader (Page 19)

(This is only available on certain models.)

9 Quick-set bobbin (Page 16, 21)

(This is only available on certain models.)

0 Flat bed attachment with accessory compartment

(Page 6)

A Presser foot (Page 10)

B Reverse sewing lever (Page 12)

Push this lever to stitch in the reverse direction.

C Buttonhole fine-adjustment screw (Page 34)

D Pattern selection dial (Page 11)

Rotate the dial in either direction to choose the

stitch you want.

E Handwheel

Used to manually raise and lower the needle.

F Air vent

The air vent allows the air surrounding the motor to

circulate.

Do not cover the air vent while the machine is

being used.

G Main power and sewing light switch (Page 8)

You can turn the main power and sewing light

switch on and off.

H Foot controller jack / socket (Page 7)

Plug in the foot controller plug and connect the

machine to the power supply.

I Presser foot lever (Page 17)

Used to raise and lower the presser foot.

J Handle

Carry the machine by its handle when transporting.

K Foot controller (Page 8)

You can use this to control the sewing speed, and to

start and stop sewing.

Foot Controller:

Model KD-1902 for 110-120V area

KD-1902 for 110-127V area (Brazil only)

Model KD-2902 for 220-240V area

The foot controller part code differs depending on the

country or region. Contact your Brother dealer or the

nearest authorized Brother Service Center.

Flat bed attachment

The accessories can be stored in a compartment inside

the flat bed attachment.

1

Slide the flat bed attachment to the left to

open it.

1 Flat bed attachment

2 Storage compartment

1

2

3

4

7

8

9

0

A

6

C

B

H

G

K

D

5

I

E

F

J

1

2

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7

USING YOUR SEWING MACHINE

WARNING

CAUTION

Connecting plugs

1

Connect the foot controller plug to the

machine.

2

Connect the power supply plug to a wall

outlet.

Note

● If a power outage occurs while the sewing

machine is being operated, turn off the main

power and unplug the power supply cord.

When restarting the sewing machine, follow

the necessary procedure to correctly operate

the machine.

● Use only regular household electricity for the power source. Using other power sources may

result in fire, electric shock, or damage to the machine.

● Make sure that the plugs on the power cord are firmly inserted into the electrical outlet and

the power supply jack on the machine. Otherwise, a fire or electric shock may result.

● Do not insert the plug on the power cord into an electrical outlet that is in poor condition.

● Turn off the main power and remove the plug in the following circumstances:

• When you are away from the machine

• After using the machine

• When the power fails during use

• When the machine does not operate correctly due to a bad connection or a disconnection

• During electrical storms

● Use only the power cord included with this machine.

● Do not use extension cords or multi-plug adapters with many other appliances plugged in to

them. Fire or electric shock may result.

● Do not touch the plug with wet hands. Electric shock may result.

●

When unplugging the machine, always turn off the main power first. Always grasp the plug to

remove it from the outlet. Pulling on the cord may damage the cord, or lead to fire or electric shock.

●

Do not allow the power cord to be cut, damaged, modified, forcefully bent, pulled, twisted, or

bundled. Do not place heavy objects on the cord. Do not subject the cord to heat. These

things may damage the cord and cause fire or electric shock. If the cord or plug is damaged,

take the machine to your authorized Brother Service Center for repairs before continuing use.

● Unplug the power cord if the machine is not to be used for a long period of time. Otherwise

a fire may result.

8

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1

Main power and sewing

light switch

This switch turns the main power and sewing light on or

off.

1 Turn on (toward the ‘I’ mark)

2 Turn off (toward the ‘O’ mark)

CAUTION

Foot controller

When you press the foot controller down lightly, the

machine will run at a low speed. When you press harder,

the machine’s speed will increase. When you take your

foot off the foot controller, the machine will stop.

1 Slower

2 Faster

You should make sure that nothing is placed on the foot

controller when the machine is not in use.

CAUTION

Checking the needle

The sewing needle must always be straight and sharp

for smooth sewing.

■ Checking the needle correctly

Put the flat side of the needle on a flat surface.

Check the needle from the top and the sides.

Dispose of any bent needles safely.

1 Parallel space

2 Level surface (bobbin cover, glass, etc.)

Replacing the needle

CAUTION

1

Turn off the machine.

2

Raise the needle by turning the

handwheel toward you

(counterclockwise) so that the mark on

the wheel points up.

3

Lower the presser foot lever.

1 Presser foot lever

●

Do not turn on the machine while pressing

down the foot controller. The machine

may start unexpectedly and cause

personal injury or damage to the machine.

● Do not allow pieces of cloth and dust to

build up on the foot controller. Doing so

could cause a fire or an electric shock.

2

1

2

● Always turn off the machine before you

change the needle. Otherwise, injuries

may occur if the foot controller is

accidentally pressed and the machine

starts sewing.

● Only use sewing machine needles for

home use. Other needles may bend or

break and cause injury.

● Never sew with a bent needle. A bent

needle will easily break and cause injury.

1

2

1

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9

CAUTION

4

Hold the needle with your left hand, and

then use a screwdriver to turn the needle

clamp screw counterclockwise to remove

the needle.

1 Use a screwdriver

• Do not use excessive force when loosening

or tightening the needle clamp screw,

otherwise certain parts of the sewing

machine may be damaged.

5

With the flat side of the needle toward the

back of the machine, insert the needle

until it touches the needle stopper. Next,

tighten the needle clamp using a

screwdriver.

Install the twin needle in the same way.

CAUTION

● Before replacing the needle, place fabric

or paper under the presser foot to

prevent the needle from falling into the

hole in the needle plate.

1 Use a screwdriver

2 Needle stopper

3 Needle

1

2

3

1

● Make sure you insert the needle until it

touches the stopper, and securely tighten

the needle clamp screw with a

screwdriver, otherwise the needle may

break or the machine may be damaged.

10

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1

Changing the presser foot

CAUTION

You will have to change the presser foot depending on

what you want to sew and how.

1

Turn off the machine.

Raise the presser foot lever.

2

Raise the needle by turning the

handwheel toward you

(counterclockwise) so that the mark on

the wheel points up.

3

Note

● Depending on the type of presser foot

holder, the method of releasing the presser

foot will vary.

4

Put a different presser foot on the needle

plate so that the bar on the presser foot is

in line with the slot on the shank.

5

Lower the presser foot lever and fix the

presser foot onto the shank. If the presser

foot is in the correct place, the bar should

snap in.

1 Shank

2 Bar

■ Presser foot installation orientation

CAUTION

●

Always turn off the machine before you

change the presser foot. If you leave the

power on and step on the controller, the

machine will start and you may be injured.

● Always use the correct presser foot for

the stitch pattern you have chosen. If

you use the wrong presser foot, the

needle may strike the presser foot and

bend or break, and may cause injury.

● Only use presser feet that have been

designed to be used with this machine.

Using any other presser foot may cause

accident or injury.

Remove the presser

foot by pulling it

vertically downward.

|

or

|

Press the black

button at the back of

the presser foot

holder to release the

presser foot.

1 Presser foot holder

2 Presser foot

1 Black button

2 Presser foot holder

3 Presser foot

1

2

1

2

3

● If the presser foot is not installed with

the correct orientation, the needle may

strike the presser foot, which may bend

or break the needle and cause injury.

1

2

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11

THE CONTROLS

Pattern selection dial

CAUTION

To choose a stitch, simply turn the pattern selection dial

in either direction.

1 Pattern selection dial

2 Chosen pattern number

Patterns and stitch names

*1 : Stitch nos. 15-17 are only available on certain

models.

●

When you use the pattern selection dial

to choose a pattern, raise the needle by

turning the handwheel toward you

(counterclockwise) so that the mark on

the wheel points up. If the needle is in

the down position when you turn the

pattern selection dial, the needle, presser

foot or fabric may be damaged.

1

2

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

10

11

12

13

14

15

16

17

Pattern

Preset Length

(mm (inch))

Reference

Page

Stitch Name

Preset Width

(mm (inch))

0.5 (1/32)

33

4-STEP AUTOMATIC

BUTTONHOLE

5 (3/16)

0.7 (1/32)

29, 36, 37,

39

ZIGZAG STITCH 1.8 (1/8)

1.5 (1/16)

29, 36, 37,

39

ZIGZAG STITCH 3.3 (3/16)

2 (1/16)

29, 36, 37,

39

ZIGZAG STITCH 5 (3/16)

0.5 (1/32)

29, 36

ZIGZAG (SATIN)

STITCH

5 (3/16)

1.6 (1/16)

29, 38

STRAIGHT STITCH

(Center Needle

Position)

—

1.8 (1/8)

29, 38

STRAIGHT STITCH

(Center Needle

Position)

—

2 (1/16)

29, 38

STRAIGHT STITCH

(Center Needle

Position)

—

3 (1/8)

29, 35, 36,

38, 39

STRAIGHT STITCH

(Center Needle

Position)

—

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

*1

12

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1

Reverse sewing lever

You can use reverse sewing for back tacking and

reinforcing seams.

To sew in reverse, push the reverse sewing lever in as

far as possible and hold it in that position while you

lightly push the foot controller. To sew forward, release

the reverse sewing lever. The machine will then sew

forward.

The length of reverse stitches is fixed at 2 mm (1/16

inch).

1 Reverse sewing lever

4 (3/16)

29, 38

STRAIGHT STITCH

(Center Needle

Position)

—

2.5 (3/32)

29, 36, 38

STRAIGHT STITCH

(Left Needle Position)

—

2 (1/16)

30, 39

BLIND HEM STITCH 5 (3/16)

1 (1/16)

31

ELASTIC STITCH 5 (3/16)

2 (1/16)

30, 39

STRETCH BLIND

HEM STITCH

5 (3/16)

2 (1/16)

31

OVEREDGE STITCH 5 (3/16)

1.2 (1/16)

32

DOUBLE ACTION

STITCH

5 (3/16)

1.2 (1/16)

32

BRIDGING STITCH 5 (3/16)

Pattern

Preset Length

(mm (inch))

Reference

Page

Stitch Name

Preset Width

(mm (inch))

10

11

12

13

14

15

16

17

1

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13

THREADING THE MACHINE

Winding the bobbin

CAUTION

1

Pull up the spool pin and put a spool of

thread on this pin.

2

While holding the thread from the spool

with your right hand, pass the thread

toward you, in the groove on the thread

guide. Then, pass the thread around the

pre-tension disk and pull the thread in

completely.

CAUTION

● We designed the bobbin that comes with this machine. If you use bobbins from other models,

the machine will not work properly. Only use the bobbin that comes with this machine or

bobbins of the same type (part code: SA156, SFB: XA5539-151). Using other bobbins may

cause damage to the machine. SA156 is Class 15 type bobbin.

Actual size

11.5 mm

(7/16 inch)

This model Other models

1 Pre-tension disk 2 Bobbin winder shaft 3 Bobbin

3

2

1

1 Pull the thread

in completely.

● If the spool of thread is in the wrong

place, or is set incorrectly, the thread

may tangle on the spool pin.

14

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1

3

Pass the end of the thread through the hole

on the bobbin from the inside of the bobbin.

4

Put the bobbin onto the bobbin winder

shaft and slide the bobbin winder shaft to

the right. Turn the bobbin clockwise, by

hand, until the projection slides into the

notch of the bobbin.

• Make sure to pull out 7 to 10 cm (3-4 inches)

of thread from the hole on the bobbin.

1 Projection

2 Notch

3 7-10 cm (3 – 4 inches)

CAUTION

5

Turn on the machine.

CAUTION

6

While holding the end of the thread,

gently press the foot controller to wind

the thread around the bobbin a few times.

Then stop the machine.

7

Trim the excess thread above the bobbin.

• Leave 1 cm (1/2 inch) of thread from the hole

on the bobbin.

1 1 cm (1/2 inch)

CAUTION

8

Press the foot controller to start.

9

When the bobbin seems full and begins

spinning slowly, take your foot off the foot

controller.

0

Cut the thread, slide the bobbin winder

shaft to the left and remove the bobbin.

Note

●

When the sewing machine is started or the

handwheel is turned after winding the thread

around the bobbin, the machine will make a

clicking sound; this is not a malfunction.

● The needle bar does not move when you

slide the bobbin winder shaft to the right.

CAUTION

● Pull the thread taut and hold the end of

the thread straight up. If the thread is too

short, not pulled taut or held at an angle,

injuries may occur when the thread is

wound around the bobbin.

●

Do not turn on the machine while pressing

down the foot controller. The machine

may start unexpectedly and cause

personal injury or damage to the machine.

3

1

2

●

Make sure you follow the instructions

carefully. If you do not cut the excess thread

completely before winding the bobbin, when

the thread runs low it may tangle around the

bobbin and cause the needle to break.

● Not winding the bobbin properly may

cause the thread tension to loosen, and

may break the needle.

1 Wound evenly

2 Wound poorly

1

2

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

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15

Lower threading

Install the bobbin wound with thread.

• For more details on using the quick-set

bobbin, see page 16.

CAUTION

1

Prepare the bobbin wound properly

before threading the lower thread.

• See page 13 for the details about bobbin

winding.

2

Raise the needle by turning the

handwheel toward you

(counterclockwise) and raise the presser

foot lever.

3

Remove the bobbin cover by sliding it and

lift toward you.

1 Bobbin cover

4

Put the bobbin in so the thread comes out

in the direction shown by the arrow.

CAUTION

5

Hold the end of the thread, push the

bobbin down with your finger, and then

pass the thread through the slit, as shown.

• If the thread is not correctly inserted through

the tension-adjusting spring of the bobbin

case, it may cause incorrect thread tension.

1 Tension-adjusting spring

6

Replace the bobbin cover. Put the

projection into the bobbin race retainer

groove and push closed.

1 Groove

2 Projection

• Make sure that the end of the thread comes

out from the cover toward the rear of the

machine (as shown in the illustration).

• Draw up the lower thread before starting

sewing. Refer to “Drawing up the lower

thread” on page 21 after threading the upper

thread.

●

Make sure you turn off the machine

while threading. If you accidentally step

on the foot controller and the machine

starts to sew, you could be injured.

●

Make sure you set the bobbin so the

thread unrolls in the right direction. If

the thread unrolls in the wrong direction,

it may cause the thread tension to be

incorrect or break the needle.

1

2

16

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1

Lower threading (for

models equipped with a

quick-set bobbin)

Install the bobbin wound with thread.

This feature is only available on certain models.

1

Follow steps 1 to 4 from “Lower

threading” on page 15.

2

While lightly holding down the bobbin

with your right hand as shown, guide the

thread through the slit (1 and 2). Then,

pull the thread toward you to cut it with

the cutter (3).

• At this time, check that the bobbin easily

rotates counterclockwise.

1 Slit

2 Cutter (Cut the thread with the cutter.)

Note

● If the thread is not correctly inserted through

the tension-adjusting spring of the bobbin

case, it may cause incorrect thread tension.

1 Tension-adjusting spring

3

Replace the bobbin cover. Put the

projection into the race retainer groove

and push closed.

1 Groove

2 Projection

• Start sewing after threading the lower and

upper thread. When sewing gathers or darts,

you can draw up the lower thread by hand so

that some thread will be left over. Refer to the

steps in “Drawing up the lower thread”

(page 21).

1

2

3

1

2

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

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17

Upper threading

1 Spool pin

2 Thread guide (back)

3 Thread guide (front)

4 Thread take-up lever

5 Mark on the handwheel

CAUTION

1

Turn off the machine.

2

Raise the presser foot lever.

1 Presser foot lever

3

Raise the needle by turning the

handwheel toward you

(counterclockwise) so that the mark on

the wheel points up.

• If the needle is not correctly raised, the

sewing machine can not be threaded.

1 Mark on the wheel

4

Pull up the spool pin and put a spool of

thread on this pin.

CAUTION

4

3

2

1

5

● When threading the upper thread, carefully follow the instructions. If the upper threading is

not correct, the thread may become tangled or the needle may bend or break.

● Never use a thread weight of 20 or lower.

● Use the needle and the thread in the correct combination. For details on the correct

combination of needles and threads, refer to “FABRIC, THREAD, AND NEEDLE

COMBINATIONS” on page 22.

1

● If the spool of thread is in the wrong

place, or is set incorrectly, the thread

may tangle on the spool pin and cause

the needle to break.

18

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1

5

While holding the thread from the spool

with your right hand, pass the thread

toward you, in the groove on the thread

guide.

• Make sure that the spring in the groove

catches the thread.

1 Spring

6

Feed the upper thread as shown in the

following illustration.

7

Make sure you guide the thread through

the thread take-up lever from right to left

as shown in the following illustration.

1 Thread take-up lever

Memo

● If the thread take-up lever is lowered, the

upper thread can not be wrapped around

the thread take-up lever. Make sure you

raise the needle by turning the handwheel

toward you (counterclockwise) so that the

mark on the wheel points up.

8

Put the thread behind the guide above the

needle.

• The thread can easily be passed behind the

needle bar thread guide by holding the

thread in your left hand, then feeding the

thread with your right hand.

1 Needle bar thread guide

9

Thread the needle from front to back

leaving a thread tail of about 5 cm

(2 inches).

• If your sewing machine is equipped with a

needle threader, use the needle threader to

thread the needle (see next section).

1 5 cm (2 inches)

Note

● Make sure you raise the presser foot lever

and the thread take-up lever before you feed

the upper thread.

● If you incorrectly feed the thread you may

cause sewing problems.

1

2

3

4

5

1

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

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19

Using the needle threader

(for models equipped with

a needle threader)

This feature is only available on certain models.

CAUTION

1

Follow steps 1 to 8 from “Upper

threading” on page 17 before using the

needle threader.

2

Lower the presser foot lever.

3

Make sure that the mark on the wheel

points up as shown in the following

illustration.

1 Mark on the wheel

4

While lowering the needle threader lever,

hook the thread onto the guide.

1 Needle holder

2 Needle threader lever

1 Needle holder

2 Needle threader lever

3 Guide

5

Pull down the needle threader lever as

much as possible, and then turn the lever

toward the back of the machine (away

from you). Make sure that the hook passes

through the eye of the needle and grabs

the thread.

1 Hook

2 Thread

• Hold the thread in front of the needle to

make sure that the hook grabs it.

●

The needle threader can be used with a

75/11 through 100/16 home sewing

machine needle. However, the needle

threader cannot be used with a 65/9

home sewing machine needle. When

using special thread such as transparent

nylon thread or metallic thread, the

needle threader cannot be used.

● Thread with a thickness of 130/120 or

thicker cannot be used with the needle

threader.

● The needle threader cannot be used with

the wing needle or the twin needle.

● If the needle threader cannot be used,

refer to “Upper threading” on page 17.

1

2

1

2

3

1 21

20

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1

6

While lightly holding the thread, turn the

needle threader lever toward the front of

the machine (toward you). The hook will

pull the thread through the needle.

7

Raise the needle threader lever.

8

Pull the loop of the thread passed through

the eye of the needle toward the rear of

the machine.

1 Loop of thread

CAUTION

9

Raise the presser foot lever.

0

Pass the end of the thread through the

presser foot, and then pull out about 5 cm

(2 inches) of thread toward the rear of the

machine.

1 5 cm (2 inches)

Note

● If you incorrectly feed the thread you may

cause sewing problems.

● Be careful not to pull on the thread with

force or it may bend the needle.

● If the thread does not pass through the

eye of the needle, start from step

3

again.

1

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

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21

Drawing up the lower

thread

1

While lightly holding the end of the upper

thread, slowly turn the handwheel toward

you (counterclockwise) by hand to lower

and then raise the needle.

2

Pull on the upper thread to draw up the

lower thread.

1 Upper thread

2 Lower thread

3

Pull out about 10 cm (4 inches) of both

threads and put them toward the back of

the machine under the presser foot.

1 Upper thread

2 Lower thread

■ For models equipped with a quick-set

bobbin

You can begin sewing immediately without drawing

up the bobbin thread.

When sewing gathers or darts, you can draw up the

lower thread by hand so that some thread will be

left over. Before you draw up the lower thread, put

the bobbin back in.

1

Remove the bobbin cover, and then

reinstall the bobbin.

2

Pass the thread along the slit in the

direction of the arrow, and leave it there

without cutting it.

• The bobbin cover should still be removed.

3

Draw up the lower thread as described in

the previous steps

1 to 3.

4

Replace the bobbin cover.

1

2

1

2

22

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1

FABRIC, THREAD, AND NEEDLE COMBINATIONS

Note

● Never use a thread weighted #20 or lower. It may cause machine malfunction.

Memo

● The lower the thread number, the thicker the thread; and the higher the needle number, the thicker the

needle.

■ Ball point needle

Use the ball point needle when sewing on stretch fabrics or fabrics where skipped stitches easily occur.

■ Transparent nylon thread

Use a 90/14 to 100/16 needle, regardless of the fabric or thread.

CAUTION

Fabric Type/Application

Thread

Size of Needle

Type Size

Medium weight

fabrics

Broadcloth Cotton thread

60–90

75/11–90/14

Taffeta Synthetic thread

Flannel, Gabardine Silk thread 50

Thin fabrics

Lawn Cotton thread

60–90

65/9–75/11

Georgette Synthetic thread

Challis, Satin Silk thread 50

Thick fabrics

Denim Cotton thread

30 100/16

50

90/14–100/16

Corduroy Synthetic thread

50–60

Tweed Silk thread

Stretch fabrics

Jersey

Thread for knits 50–60

Ball point needle

75/11–90/14

(gold colored)

Tricot

Easily frayed fabrics

Cotton thread

50–90

65/9–90/14Synthetic thread

Silk thread 50

For top-stitching

Synthetic thread

Silk thread

30 100/16

50–60 75/11–90/14

●

Make sure you follow the needle, thread, and fabric combinations listed in the table.

Using the wrong combination, such as heavyweight fabric like denim with a small needle

(65/9-75/11), may bend or break the needle. The wrong combination may also cause the seam

to be uneven, the fabric to pucker, or the machine to skip stitches.

SEWING BASICS ————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

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23

2 SEWING BASICS

Please read before sewing

CAUTION

Starting sewing

1

Turn on the machine.

CAUTION

2

Raise the needle by turning the

handwheel toward you

(counterclockwise) so that the mark on

the wheel points up.

3

Turn the pattern selection dial to select a

stitch (see page 11).

4

Change the presser foot (see page 10).

5

Raise the presser foot lever.

1 Presser foot lever

6

Place the fabric under the presser foot,

pass the thread under the presser foot,

and then pull out about 5 cm (2 inches) of

thread toward the rear of the machine.

1 5 cm (2 inches)

● To avoid being injured, watch the needle carefully while you are using the machine. Keep

your hands away from moving parts.

● Do not stretch or pull the fabric during sewing, otherwise the needle may be damaged and

you may be injured.

● Do not use bent or broken needles, otherwise you may be injured.

● Take care that the needle does not hit basting pins or other objects during sewing. The needle

may break and you may be injured.

● Always use the correct presser foot. If you use the wrong presser foot, the needle may hit the

presser foot and bend or break and you may be injured.

● When you turn the handwheel by hand, always turn it toward you (counterclockwise).

Turning it the other way may cause the thread to tangle and damage the needle or fabric, and

you may be injured.

● Do not start sewing without placing the fabric under the presser foot, otherwise the presser

foot may be damaged.

●

Do not turn on the machine while pressing

down the foot controller. The machine

may start unexpectedly and cause

personal injury or damage to the machine.

1

24

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2

7

While holding the end of the thread and

the fabric with your left hand, turn the

handwheel toward you

(counterclockwise) with your right hand

to lower the needle to the starting point of

the stitching.

8

Lower the presser foot lever.

1 Presser foot lever

9

Slowly press down on the foot controller.

 The machine starts sewing.

0

Take your foot off the foot controller.

 The machine stops sewing.

• You can use reverse sewing for back tacking

and reinforcing seams by pressing the reverse

sewing lever. Refer to “Reverse sewing lever”

on page 12 for the details.

a

Raise the needle by turning the

handwheel toward you

(counterclockwise).

b

Raise the presser foot lever.

c

Pull the fabric to the left side of the

machine, and then pass the threads

through the thread cutter to cut them.

.

1 Thread cutter

Trial sewing

A trial piece of fabric should be sewn. Use a piece of

fabric and thread that are the same as those used for

your project, and check the thread tension and stitch

length and width.

Changing the sewing

direction

Stop the machine with the needle in the fabric at the

point where you want to change the sewing direction,

and then raise the presser foot lever. Using the needle

as a pivot, turn the fabric, lower the presser foot lever,

and then continue sewing.

Sewing thick fabrics

■ If the fabric does not fit under the presser

foot

If the fabric does not fit easily under the presser foot,

raise the presser foot lever even higher to bring the

presser foot to its highest position.

CAUTION

1

● If fabric more than 6 mm (15/64 inch)

thick is sewn or if the fabric is pushed

with too much force, the needle may

bend or break.

SEWING BASICS ————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

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25

Sewing thin fabrics

When sewing thin fabrics, the stitching may become

misaligned or the fabric may not feed correctly. If this

occurs, place thin paper or stabilizer material under the

fabric and sew it together with the fabric. When you

have finished sewing, tear off any excess paper.

1 Stabilizer material or paper

Sewing stretch fabrics

First, baste the pieces of fabric together, and then sew

without stretching the fabric.

1 Basting

Stitching cylindrical

pieces

Removing the flat bed attachment makes it easier to sew

cylindrical pieces such as cuffs and pant legs, or hard-

to-reach areas.

1

Slide the flat bed attachment to the left to

release it.

1 Flat bed attachment

 With the flat bed attachment removed,

free-arm sewing is possible.

Note

● When you are finished with free-arm

sewing, install the flat bed attachment back

in its original position.

2

Slide the part that you wish to sew onto

the arm, and then sew from the top.

Sewing with a twin needle

(Option)

We have designed your machine so you can sew with

this needle and two top threads. You can use the same

color or two different colors of thread for making

decorative stitches.

CAUTION

■ Attaching the twin needle

Attach the twin needle in the same way as a single

needle (see page 8–9). The flat side of the needle

should face toward the back and the rounded side

should face toward you.

1

Twin needle Extra spool pin

● Use only twin needles that have been

made for this machine (part code:

X57521-021:2.0/75 with a 2 mm width).

Other needles could break and damage

the machine.

● Make sure that the needle does not strike

the presser foot.

● Do not sew with bent needles. The

needle could break and injure you.

26

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2

■ Attaching the extra spool pin

Put the extra spool pin in the hole on the top of the

machine. Put the second spool of thread onto the

extra spool pin.

■ Twin needle threading

You should thread each needle separately.

Note

Models equipped with a needle threader

● You cannot use the needle threader to

thread the twin needle. Instead, thread the

twin needle by hand, from front to back.

Using the needle threader may damage the

machine.

1

Use the thread from the first spool to

thread the machine to the needle bar

thread guide.

The path for threading the machine to the

needle bar thread guide is the same as for

normally threading the machine (for a single

needle). See page 18 for more details.

2

Thread the left needle from front to back.

3

Use the thread from the second spool to

thread the machine to the thread take-up

lever.

The path for threading the machine to the thread

take-up lever is the same as for normally

threading the machine (for a single needle). See

page 18 for more details.

4

Thread the right needle from front to

back.

Do not pass the thread behind the needle bar

thread guide.

1 Left needle thread passes through the needle

bar thread guide.

2 Right needle thread passes in front of the needle

bar thread guide.

3 Needle bar thread guide

5

Attach zigzag foot “J”.

For details on changing the presser foot, refer

to “Changing the presser foot” on page 10.

CAUTION

6

Turn on the machine.

CAUTION

1 First spool

2 Second spool

● When using the twin needle, be sure to

attach zigzag foot “J”, otherwise the

needle may break or the machine may be

damaged.

● Do not turn on the machine while

pressing down the foot controller. The

machine may start unexpectedly and

cause personal injury or damage to the

machine.

1

3

2

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27

7

Select a stitch.

CAUTION

8

Start sewing.

For details on starting to sew, refer to “Starting

sewing” on page 23.

 Two lines of stitching are sewn parallel to

each other.

CAUTION

Thread tension

The tension of the thread will affect the quality of your

stitches. You may need to adjust it when you change

fabric or thread.

Memo

● We recommend that you do a test sample

on scrap of a fabric before you start to sew.

■ Correct tension

Correct tension is important as too much or too little

tension will weaken your seams or cause puckers

on your fabric.

■ Upper tension is too tight

Loops will appear on the surface of the fabric.

Note

● If the bobbin thread was incorrectly

threaded, the upper thread may be too tight.

In this case, refer to “Lower threading” on

page 15 and rethread the bobbin thread.

Solution

Reduce the tension by turning the upper tension

control dial to a lower number.

●

After selecting a stitch, slowly turn the

handwheel toward you

(counterclockwise) and check that the

needle does not touch the presser foot. If

the needle hits the presser foot, the

needle may bend or break.

● The twin needle should only be used

with the Straight Stitch (Center Needle

Position) and the Zigzag Stitch (1.5 mm

(1/16 inch) width). Do not use the twin

needle with any other stitches.

● When changing the sewing direction, be

sure to raise the needle from the fabric,

and then raise the presser foot lever and

turn the fabric. Otherwise the needle

may break or the machine may be

damaged.

1 Surface of fabric

2 Back of fabric

3 Upper thread

4 Lower thread

1 Surface of fabric

2 Back of fabric

3 Upper thread

4 Lower thread

5 Loops appear on

surface of fabric

1

2

3

4

1

2

3

4

5

28

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2

■ Upper tension is too loose

Loops appear on the back of the fabric.

Note

● If the upper thread was incorrectly threaded,

the upper thread may be too loose. In this

case, refer to “Upper threading” on page 17

and rethread the upper thread.

Solution

Increase the tension by turning the upper tension

control dial to a higher number.

1 Surface of fabric

2 Back of fabric

3 Upper thread

4 Lower thread

5 Loops appear on back

of fabric

1

2

3

4

5

BUILT-IN STITCHES ————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

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29

3 BUILT-IN STITCHES

Straight stitching

Straight stitches are used for sewing plain seams.

■ Top stitching and stretch materials

You can use a straight stitch for top stitching and

sewing lightweight fabrics.

Zigzag stitching

■ Zigzag stitch

Turn the pattern selection dial to the Zigzag Stitch,

and then start sewing.

We recommend that you sew using the Straight

Stitch at the beginning and end of Zigzag Stitches.

(This acts as a reinforcement stitch.)

■ Zigzag (Satin) Stitch

You can use the Zigzag (Satin) Stitch for making

decorative stitches.

When sewing a Zigzag (Satin) Stitch, use a slightly

looser upper-thread tension to produce more

beautiful stitches.

With the pattern selection dial, the Zigzag (Satin)

Stitch (number 5) can be set to one of three stitch

lengths. The middle position is the setting for the

standard stitch length.

1 For a shorter stitch length, turn the pattern

selecting dial to the left position of Zigzag

(Satin) Stitch (number 5).

2 For a longer stitch length, turn the pattern

selecting dial to the right position of Zigzag

(Satin) Stitch (number 5).

Stitch Name Pattern

Stitch Length

[mm (inch)]

Straight Stitch

(Center Needle Position)

1.6 (1/16)

Straight Stitch

(Center Needle Position)

1.8 (1/8)

Straight Stitch

(Center Needle Position)

2 (1/16)

Straight Stitch

(Center Needle Position)

3 (1/8)

Straight Stitch

(Center Needle Position)

4 (3/16)

Straight Stitch

(Left Needle Position)

2.5 (3/32)

Stitch Name Pattern

Stitch

Length

[mm (inch)]

Stitch Width

[mm (inch)]

Zigzag Stitch 0.7 (1/32) 1.8 (1/8)

Zigzag Stitch 1.5 (1/16) 3.3 (3/16)

Zigzag Stitch 2 (1/16) 5 (3/16)

Zigzag (Satin)

Stitch

0.5 (1/32) 5 (3/16)

6

7

8

9

10

11

2

3

4

5

1

2

30

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3

Blind hem stitching

Memo

● When the size of cylindrical pieces is too

small to slide onto the arm or the length is

too short, the fabric will not feed and

desired results may not be achieved.

1

Reverse the skirt or pants.

1 Wrong side of fabric

2 Right side of fabric

3 Bottom side

4 Edge of fabric

2

Fold the fabric along the desired edge of

the hem, and press.

3

Use a chalk to mark on the fabric about

5 mm (3/16 inch) from the edge of the

fabric, and then baste it.

4

Fold back the fabric inside along the

basting.

5

Unfold the edge of fabric, and position the

fabric with the wrong side facing up.

6

Remove the flat bed attachment and make

free-arm sewing possible.

• For details on free-arm sewing, refer to

“Stitching cylindrical pieces” (Page 25).

Stitch Name Pattern

Stitch

Length

[mm (inch)]

Stitch Width

[mm (inch)]

Blind Hem

Stitch

2 (1/16) 5 (3/16)

Stretch Blind

Hem Stitch

2 (1/16) 5 (3/16)

1 Wrong side of

fabric

2 Right side of

fabric

3 Edge of fabric

4 Desired edge of

hem

12

14

2

1

3

4

1

2

1

2

1

3

4

2

1 Wrong side of

fabric

2 Right side of

fabric

3 Edge of fabric

4 Basting stitching

5 5 mm (3/16 inch)

6 Desired edge of

hem

1 Wrong side of

fabric

2 Edge of fabric

3 Basting

4 5 mm (3/16 inch)

5 Desired edge of

hem

6 Right side of

fabric

7 Basting point

1 Wrong side of

fabric

2 Right side of

fabric

3 Basting

4 Edge of fabric

5 Desired edge of

hem

6 Basting point

1

2

1

2

3

5

6

4

1

2

1

2

3

4

1

6

7

5

6

1

2

3

4

5

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31

7

Slide the part that you wish to sew onto

the arm, make sure that the fabric feeds

correctly, and then start sewing.

1 Arm

8

After selecting a stitch, slowly turn the

handwheel toward you

(counterclockwise) until the needle has

moved from the right side to the left.

9

Position the fabric under the presser foot,

and then adjust the fabric position until

the needle slightly catches the fold of the

hem when the needle comes to the left

end of the stitch.

0

Lower the presser foot lever.

a

Sew at a slow speed holding the fabric

with your hands, so that the needle

slightly catches the fold of the hem.

b

Remove the basting stitching and turn the

fabric right side up.

Overedge stitching

*

Stitch no. 15 is only available on certain models

.

1

Put the fabric under the presser foot so

that the seamline (or arrowhead point) is

approximately 3 mm (1/8 inch) to the left

of the center of the presser foot.

• If the seam allowance is wider than the stitch

pattern, trim away any excess fabric after

stitching.

Elastic stitching

You can use the Elastic Stitch for mending, sewing

elastic or joining fabric. Each is explained below.

1 Wrong side of fabric

2 Fold of hem

3 Needle drop point

1 Needle

2 Needle drop point

3 Fold of hem

1 Wrong side of fabric 2 Right side of fabric

1

2

3

1

2

3

1

2

Stitch Name Pattern

Stitch

Length

[mm (inch)]

Stitch Width

[mm (inch)]

Overedge Stitch 2 (1/16) 5 (3/16)

Stitch Name Pattern

Stitch

Length

[mm (inch)]

Stitch Width

[mm (inch)]

Elastic Stitch 1 (1/16) 5 (3/16)

15

13

32

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3

■ Mending

1

Place the reinforcement fabric under the

area you want to mend.

• Use the basting pins to hold the

reinforcement fabric.

2

Following the line of the tear, sew using

the Elastic Stitch as shown.

■ Sewing elastic

1

Pin the elastic tape to the wrong side of

the fabric.

2

As you sew, stretch the elastic in front of

and behind the presser foot.

■ Joining fabric

You can use the Elastic Stitch to join two pieces of

fabric together and it is very effective when sewing

knitted fabrics. If you are using nylon thread, the

stitch will not be visible.

1

Put the edge of the two pieces of fabric

together and center them under the

presser foot.

2

Sew them together using the Elastic Stitch.

Make sure you keep the two fabric edges

close together.

• Use the basting pins to hold the two fabric

edges close together.

Double action stitching

*

Stitch nos. 16-17 are only available on certain models

.

These stitches are used for joining two pieces of fabric,

such as when making patchwork.

Example: Patchwork with Double Action Stitch

1 Desired seamline

2 Straight Stitch

3 Double Action Stitch

Stitch Name Pattern

Stitch

Length

[mm (inch)]

Stitch Width

[mm (inch)]

Double Action

Stitch

1.2 (1/16) 5 (3/16)

Bridging Stitch 1.2 (1/16) 5 (3/16)

16

17

1

2

3

SEWING BUTTONHOLES ————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

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33

4 SEWING BUTTONHOLES

CAUTION

Making a buttonhole

Memo

● We recommend that you practice making a

buttonhole on a scrap piece of fabric before

you try it on an actual garment.

● When making buttonholes on soft fabrics,

place a stabilizer material on the underside

of the fabric.

1

Using tailor’s chalk, mark the position and

length of the buttonhole on the fabric.

1 Marks on fabric

2 Buttonhole sewing

2

Attach the buttonhole foot and push the

frame back until it stops with the plastic

insert at the front of the frame.

CAUTION

3

You need to sew the front bar tack first.

Line the bar tack mark under the center of

the presser foot and match it up to the

two lines on the presser foot.

1 Front of chalk mark

2 Red lines

■ Making a Buttonhole

● Always turn off the machine before

replacing the presser foot. Otherwise,

injuries may occur if the foot controller

is accidentally pressed and the machine

starts sewing.

Pattern

Stitch

Length

[mm

(inch)]

Stitch

Width

[mm

(inch)]

Foot

0.5 (1/32) 5 (3/16)

Button-

hole

Foot “A”

1

2

● If the presser foot is not installed with

the correct orientation, the needle may

strike the presser foot, which may bend

or break the needle and cause injury.

(See page 10 for the correct presser foot

orientation.)

Step Sewn section Pattern

Step 1

(Front bar tack)

1. Set the pattern selection dial to “a”.

2. Lower the presser foot and sew 5 to 6 stitches.

3. Stop the machine when the needle is at the left

side of the stitches and then raise the needle from

the material.

Step 2

(Left side)

1. Turn the pattern selection dial to “b”.

2. Sew the length of the tailor’s chalk line.

3. Stop the machine when the needle is at the left

side of the stitch and then raise the needle.

1

2

34

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4

■ Securing the Stitching and Cutting the

Buttonhole

1

To secure the stitching, turn the material

90 degrees counterclockwise and sew

straight stitches to the end of the front bar

tack of the buttonhole.

2

Remove the material from the machine.

We recommend that you put pins across

both ends of the buttonhole to prevent the

stitches from being cut.

3

Cut an opening in the middle of the

buttonhole with the seam ripper tool. Be

careful not to cut through any stitches.

CAUTION

Adjusting buttonholes

If the stitching on the two sides of the buttonhole is not

the same, you can make the following adjustments.

1

After sewing the left side of the

buttonhole, stitch the right side and

observe the feeding.

1 Right row

2

If the left side is too open or tight

compared with the right side, adjust the

buttonhole fine-adjustment screw as

described in the following paragraphs.

1 Buttonhole fine-adjustment screw

2 Left side

3 Buttonhole appearance

If the left side is too open, turn the buttonhole

fine-adjustment screw with a large

screwdriver in the “–” direction.

If the left side is too tight, turn the buttonhole

fine-adjustment screw with a large

screwdriver in the “+” direction.

• This adjustment ensures both sides of the

buttonhole are the same.

Step 3

(Back bar tack)

1. Turn the pattern selection dial to “c” (same

position as in step 1).

2. Sew 5 to 6 stitches.

3. Stop the machine when the needle is at the right

side of the stitch and then raise the needle from the

material.

Step 4

(Right side)

1. Set the pattern selection dial to “d”.

2. Sew the right side until the needle reaches the

stitches sewn in step 1.

●

When using the seam ripper to open the

buttonhole, do not put your hand or

finger in the path of the ripper. The seam

ripper may slip and you may be injured.

Step Sewn section Pattern

1

2

3

USING ATTACHMENTS AND APPLICATIONS ————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

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35

5 USING ATTACHMENTS AND

APPLICATIONS

CAUTION

Zipper insertion

You can use the zipper foot “I” to sew different types of

zippers, and can easily position it to the right or left side

of the needle.

When sewing with the zipper on the right side, attach

the shank to the left pin of the zipper foot. When sewing

with the zipper on the left side, attach the shank to the

right pin of the zipper foot.

1 Right pin for sewing with the zipper on the left

side

2 Left pin for sewing with the zipper on the right

side

3 Needle drop point for sewing with the zipper

on the left side

4 Needle drop point for sewing with the zipper

on the right side

1

Prepare the fabric with the zipper basted

on the wrong side.

1 Basting stitching

2 Reverse stitches

3 Wrong side of fabric

4 End of zipper opening

5 Zipper

2

Turn off the machine.

Attach the zipper foot “I”.

CAUTION

3

Turn on the machine.

CAUTION

4

With the right side of the fabric facing up,

continue sewing with the zipper on the

right side of the presser foot.

1 End of zipper opening

2 Basting stitching

3 Zipper

• Sew the stitching in order, from 1 to 3.

●

Always turn off the machine before replacing the presser foot. Otherwise, injuries may occur

if the foot controller is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing.

Stitch Name Pattern

Stitch

Length

[mm (inch)]

Foot

Straight Stitch

(Center Needle

Position)

3 (1/8)

Zipper

Foot “I”

9

1

2

3

4

1

2

3

4

1

5

3

4

● Turn the handwheel toward you

(counterclockwise) and check that the

needle does not touch the zipper foot

before you start sewing. Choosing a

different stitch will cause the needle to

hit the presser foot and break, and you

may be injured.

●

Do not turn on the machine while pressing

down the foot controller. The machine

may start unexpectedly and cause

personal injury or damage to the machine.

36

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5

CAUTION

5

When you have finished sewing, remove

the basting stitching.

Gathering

1

Loosen the tension of the upper thread so

that the lower thread lies on the underside

of the material.

2

Sew a single row (or many rows) of

straight stitches.

3

Pull the lower threads to gather the

material.

Appliqués

You can create an appliqué by cutting a different piece

of fabric into a shape and applying it as a decoration.

1

Baste the cut design to the fabric.

2

Carefully sew around the edge of the

design with a zigzag stitch.

● Make sure the needle does not hit the

zipper during sewing. If the needle hits

the zipper, the needle may break and

you may be injured.

Stitch Name Pattern

Stitch Length

[mm (inch)]

Straight Stitch

(Center Needle

Position)

3 (1/8)

Straight Stitch

(Left Needle Position)

2.5 (3/32)

9

11

Stitch Name Pattern

Stitch

Length

[mm (inch)]

Stitch Width

[mm (inch)]

Zigzag Stitch 0.7 (1/32) 1.8 (1/8)

Zigzag Stitch 1.5 (1/16) 3.3 (3/16)

Zigzag Stitch 2 (1/16) 5 (3/16)

Zigzag (Satin)

Stitch

0.5 (1/32) 5 (3/16)

2

3

4

5

USING ATTACHMENTS AND APPLICATIONS ————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

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37

USING OPTIONAL ACCESSORIES

L

Sewing buttons

1

Measure the distance between the

buttonholes and set the pattern selection

dial to the Zigzag Stitch with the desired

width.

2

Turn off the machine.

3

Change the foot to the button sewing foot

“M”.

4

Place the darning plate on the needle

plate.

5

Turn on the machine.

CAUTION

6

Put a button between the foot and the

fabric and make sure that the needle enters

the holes without hitting the button. If it

hits, see step

1

.

7

At a slow speed, sew about 10 stitches.

CAUTION

8

Pull the upper thread at the end of the

stitching to the wrong side of the fabric,

and then tie it with the bobbin thread.

 Use scissors to cut the upper thread and

the bobbin thread at the beginning of the

stitching.

Stitch

Name

Pattern

Stitch

Length

[mm

(inch)]

Stitch

Width

[mm

(inch)]

Foot Other

Zigzag

Stitch

0.7

(1/32)

1.8

(1/8)

Button

Sewing

Foot

“M”

Darning

Plate

Zigzag

Stitch

1.5

(1/16)

3.3

(3/16)

Button

Sewing

Foot

“M”

Darning

Plate

Zigzag

Stitch

2

(1/16)

5

(3/16)

Button

Sewing

Foot

“M”

Darning

Plate

●

Do not turn on the machine while pressing

down the foot controller. The machine

may start unexpectedly and cause

personal injury or damage to the machine.

2

3

4

● Make sure the needle does not hit the

button during sewing. The needle may

break and you may be injured.

38

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5

Darning

1

Turn off the machine.

Place the darning plate on the needle

plate, then turn on the machine.

2

Either remove both the presser foot and

presser foot holder assembly and then

lower the presser foot lever.

3

Put the section you want to darn under

the presser foot together with fabric for

reinforcement.

4

Turn on the machine.

CAUTION

5

Begin sewing by alternating between

gently drawing the work away from you

and pulling it toward you.

Note

● Sew while holding the fabric stretched in

order to keep the fabric held down.

6

Repeat this motion until the section being

darned is filled with parallel lines of

stitching.

Stitch Name Pattern

Stitch

Length

[mm (inch)]

Other

Straight Stitch

(Center Needle

Position)

1.6 (1/16)

Darning

Plate

Straight Stitch

(Center Needle

Position)

1.8 (1/8)

Darning

Plate

Straight Stitch

(Center Needle

Position)

2 (1/16)

Darning

Plate

Straight Stitch

(Center Needle

Position)

3 (1/8)

Darning

Plate

Straight Stitch

(Center Needle

Position)

4 (3/16)

Darning

Plate

Straight Stitch

(Left Needle

Position)

2.5 (3/32)

Darning

Plate

●

Do not turn on the machine while pressing

down the foot controller. The machine

may start unexpectedly and cause

personal injury or damage to the machine.

6

7

8

9

10

11

USING ATTACHMENTS AND APPLICATIONS ————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

—

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39

Using the blind stitch foot

This foot comes in handy not only for stretch blind hem

stitching, but also for sewing fabric edges and seams.

■ When edge stitching

1

Turn off the machine.

2

Attach the blind stitch foot.

Turn on the machine.

CAUTION

3

Position the needle the distance you want

the stitch to be from the edge of the fabric,

and then lower the needle in that position.

4

Turn the foot guide screw and carefully

adjust to guide the fabric.

1 Screw

2 Guide

■ When sewing seams

1

Turn off the machine.

2

Attach the blind stitch foot.

Turn on the machine.

CAUTION

3

Set the pattern selection dial to the

Straight Stitch (Center Needle Position).

Align the foot guide with the needle

position.

4

Set the pattern selection dial to the Zigzag

Stitch with the desired width.

5

Place the fabric under the foot so the foot

guide is aligned between both edges of the

fabric.

6

Lower the presser foot and start sewing.

■ When stretch blind hem stitching

When stretch blind hem stitching using the blind

stitch foot, turn the screw to adjust the guide to the

folded hem.

• For more details on blind hem stitching, see

page 30.

1 Screw

2 Guide

3 Folded hem

Stitch Name Pattern

Stitch

Length

[mm (inch)]

Stitch Width

[mm (inch)]

Zigzag Stitch 0.7 (1/32) 1.8 (1/8)

Zigzag Stitch 1.5 (1/16) 3.3 (3/16)

Zigzag Stitch 2 (1/16) 5 (3/16)

Straight Stitch

(Center Needle

Position)

3 (1/8) —

Blind Hem

Stitch

2 (1/16) 5 (3/16)

Stretch Blind

Hem Stitch

2 (1/16) 5 (3/16)

●

Do not turn on the machine while pressing

down the foot controller. The machine

may start unexpectedly and cause

personal injury or damage to the machine.

2

3

4

9

12

14

1

2

1

2

● Do not turn on the machine while

pressing down the foot controller. The

machine may start unexpectedly and

cause personal injury or damage to the

machine.

1

2

3

40

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6

6 APPENDIX

MAINTENANCE

Restrictions on oiling

In order to prevent damaging this machine, it must not

be oiled by the user.

This machine was manufactured with the necessary

amount of oil applied to ensure correct operation,

making periodic oiling unnecessary.

If problems occur, such as difficulty turning the

handwheel or an unusual noise, immediately stop using

the machine, and contact your authorized Brother

Service Center or the nearest authorized Brother Service

Center.

Precautions on storing the

machine

Do not store the machine in any of the locations

described below, otherwise damage to the machine

may result, for example, rust caused by condensation.

• Exposed to extremely high temperatures

• Exposed to extremely low temperatures

• Exposed to extreme temperature changes

• Exposed to high humidity or steam

• Near a flame, heater or air conditioner

• Outdoors or exposed to direct sunlight

• Exposed to extremely dusty or oily environments

Note

● In order to extend the life of this machine,

periodically turn it on and use it.

Storing this machine for an extended period

of time without using it may reduce its

efficiency.

Cleaning

CAUTION

1

Turn off the machine and unplug it.

2

Raise the needle and the presser foot.

3

Loosen the presser foot screw and the

needle clamp screw to remove the presser

foot holder and the needle.

4

Using the screwdriver, remove the two

screws. Lift up the needle plate as shown

in the illustration, and then slide the

needle plate to the left to remove it.

1 Use the screwdriver

5

Grasp the bobbin case, and then lift it out

to the left.

● Make sure you unplug the machine

before you clean it, otherwise you risk

getting an electric shock or being

injured.

1

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41

6

Use the cleaning brush or a vacuum

cleaner to remove any dust from the

bobbin race and its surrounding area.

1 Cleaning brush

2 Race

• Do not apply oil to the bobbin case.

7

Insert the bobbin case so that the ▲ mark

on the bobbin case aligns with the ● mark

on machine as shown below.

• Align the ▲ and ● marks.

1 ▲ mark

2 ● mark

3 Bobbin case

• Make sure that the indicated points are

aligned before installing the bobbin case.

8

Install the needle plate, and then tighten

the screws.

1 Screws

• Make sure that you install the needle plate

securely.

CAUTION

1

2

1

2

1

2

3

● Never use a bobbin case that is

scratched; otherwise the upper thread

may become tangled, the needle may

break, or sewing performance may

suffer. For a new bobbin case (part code:

XE9326-001), contact your nearest

authorized Brother Service Center.

● Make sure that you fit the bobbin case

properly, otherwise the needle may

break.

1

42

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6

TROUBLESHOOTING

If the machine stops operating correctly, check the following possible problems before requesting service. You can

solve most problems by yourself. If you need additional help, the Brother Solutions Center offers the latest FAQs and

troubleshooting tips. Visit us at “ http://support.brother.com

”. If the problem persists, contact your Brother dealer or

the nearest authorized Brother Service Center.

Symptom Possible cause How to put it right Page

The sewing

machine does

not work.

The main power switch is turned off. Turn on the main power switch. 8

The bobbin-winder shaft is pushed to the

right.

Move the bobbin-winder shaft to the

left.

14

You have not used the foot controller

properly.

Use the foot controller properly. 8

Fabric being

sewn with the

machine

cannot be

removed.

Thread is tangled below the needle plate.

Lift up the fabric and cut the threads

below it, and clean the race.

40

The needle

breaks.

The needle is incorrectly installed. Correctly install the needle. 8

The needle clamp screw is loose.

Use the screwdriver to firmly tighten

the screw.

9

The needle is bent or blunt. Replace the needle. 8

The upper thread was not threaded

correctly.

Correct the upper threading. 17

You have not used the right combination of

fabric, thread and needle.

Choose a thread and needle that are

appropriate for the type of fabric.

22

The presser foot you are using is not

appropriate for the type of stitch that you

want to sew.

Attach the presser foot that is correct

for the type of stitch that you want to

sew.

–

The upper thread tension is too tight. Loosen the upper thread tension. 27

You are pulling the fabric too much. Lightly guide the fabric. –

You have not fitted the spool properly.

Fit the spool properly. 17

The area around the hole in the needle

plate or the presser foot is scratched.

Replace the needle plate.

Contact your retailer or the nearest

authorized Brother Service Center.

–

The bobbin case is scratched.

Replace the bobbin case.

Contact your retailer or the nearest

authorized Brother Service Center.

–

You have not used a bobbin that has been

designed for this machine.

Use a bobbin that has been designed

for this machine.

13

The upper

thread

breaks.

You have not threaded the upper thread

properly. (For example, you have not fitted

the spool properly, or the thread has come

out of the guide above the needle.)

Correct the upper threading. 17

There are knots or tangles in the thread. Remove any knots or tangles. –

The needle is not appropriate for the thread

you are using.

Choose a needle that is appropriate for

the type of stitch.

22

▼ The upper thread tension is too tight. Loosen the upper thread tension. 27

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43

▲ The needle is bent or blunt. Replace the needle. 8

The upper

thread

breaks.

The needle is incorrectly installed. Correctly install the needle. 8

The area around the hole in the needle

plate or the presser foot is scratched.

Replace the needle plate.

Contact your retailer or the nearest

authorized Brother Service Center.

–

The bobbin case is scratched, or has a burr

on it.

Replace the bobbin case.

Contact your retailer or the nearest

authorized Brother Service Center.

–

You have not used a bobbin that has been

designed for this machine.

Use a bobbin that has been designed for

this machine.

13

The lower

thread is

tangled or

breaks.

You have not wound the bobbin thread

properly.

Wind the bobbin thread properly. 13

The bobbin is scratched or does not turn

smoothly.

Replace the bobbin. –

The thread is tangled.

Remove the tangled thread and clean

the race.

40

You have not used a bobbin that has been

designed for this machine.

Use a bobbin that has been designed for

this machine.

13

Bobbin is set incorrectly. Reset the bobbin thread correctly. 15

The thread

tension is

incorrect.

You have not threaded the upper thread

properly.

Correct the upper threading. 17

You have not wound the bobbin thread

properly.

Wind the bobbin thread properly. 13

You have not threaded the right

combination of thread and needle for the

fabric you are using.

Choose a thread and needle that are

appropriate for the type of fabric.

22

You have not attached the presser foot

holder properly.

Attach the presser foot holder properly. –

The thread tension is incorrect. Adjust the tension of the upper thread. 27

You have not used a bobbin that has been

designed for this machine.

Use a bobbin that has been designed

for this machine.

13

Bobbin is set incorrectly. Reset the bobbin thread correctly. 15

The fabric is

wrinkled.

You have not threaded the upper thread

properly or fitted the bobbin properly.

Thread the upper thread and wind the

bobbin thread properly.

13-21

You have not fitted the spool properly. Fit the spool properly. 17

You have not used the right

combination of fabric, thread and

needle.

Choose a thread and needle that are

appropriate for the type of fabric.

22

The needle is bent or blunt. Replace the needle. 8

If thin fabrics are being sewn, the fabric is

not being fed correctly.

Sew with stabilizer material under the

fabric.

25

The presser foot you are using is not

appropriate for the type of stitch that you

want to sew.

Attach the presser foot that is correct

for the type of stitch that you want to

sew.

35

The thread tension is incorrect. Adjust the tension of the upper thread. 27

Symptom Possible cause How to put it right Page

44

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6

Stitches are

skipped.

You have not threaded the upper thread

properly.

Correct the upper threading. 17

You have not used the right combination of

fabric, thread and needle.

Choose a thread and needle that are

appropriate for the type of fabric.

22

The needle is bent or blunt. Replace the needle. 8

The needle is incorrectly installed. Correctly install the needle. 8

Dust has accumulated under the needle

plate or in the bobbin case.

Remove the needle plate and clean the

plate and the bobbin case.

40

The needle

threader can

not be used.

The needle has not been raised to the

correct position.

Raise the needle by turning the

handwheel toward you

(counterclockwise) so that the mark on

the wheel points up.

19

You have not inserted the needle properly. Insert the needle properly. 8

The stitch is

not sewn

correctly.

The presser foot that you are using is not

correct for the type of stitch.

Attach the presser foot that is correct

for the type of stitch that you want to

sew.

–

The thread tension is incorrect. Adjust the tension of the upper thread. 27

The thread is tangled.

Remove the tangled thread. If the

thread is tangled in the bobbin case,

clean the bobbin case.

40

The fabric

does not feed.

The darning plate is fitted on the needle

plate.

Remove the darning plate. –

You have not used the right combination of

fabric, thread and needle.

Choose a thread and needle that are

appropriate for the type of fabric.

22

The thread is tangled, for example, in the

race.

Remove the tangle thread. If the thread

is tangled in the race, clean the race.

40

The presser foot you are using is not

appropriate for the type of stitch that you

want to sew.

Attach the presser foot that is correct

for the type of stitch that you want to

sew.

35

Symptom Possible cause How to put it right Page

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45

INDEX

Numerics

4-Step Automatic Buttonhole ....................... 33

A

Accessories .................................................. 5

optional ............................................ 5, 37

Appliqués .................................................. 36

B

Blind hem stitching ..................................... 30

Blind stitch foot .......................................... 39

Bobbin winding .......................................... 13

Button sewing ............................................ 37

Buttonhole

adjusting ................................................ 34

making ................................................... 33

Buttonhole fine-adjustment screw ................ 34

C

Cleaning .................................................... 40

Connecting plugs .......................................... 7

D

Darning ..................................................... 38

Darning plate ...................................... 37, 38

Double action stitching ............................... 32

Drawing up the lower thread ....................... 21

E

Elastic stitching ........................................... 31

F

Fabric, thread, and needle combinations ...... 22

Flat bed attachment ...................................... 6

Foot controller .............................................. 8

Free-arm style ............................................. 25

G

Gathering ................................................... 36

H

Handwheel ................................................ 17

L

Light switch .................................................. 8

Lower threading ......................................... 15

M

Main parts .................................................... 6

Main power ................................................. 8

Maintenance .............................................. 40

N

Needle

checking .................................................. 8

combinations with fabric and thread ......... 22

replacing .................................................. 8

Needle threader .......................................... 19

O

Overedge stitching ...................................... 31

P

Pattern selection dial ................................... 11

Patterns ...................................................... 11

Presser foot changing .................................. 10

Q

Quick-set bobbin ................................. 16, 21

R

Race cleaning .............................................40

Reverse sewing lever ...................................12

S

Spool pin ............................................. 13, 17

Stitches

built-in ...................................................29

names ....................................................11

Straight stitching .........................................29

T

Thread cutter ..............................................24

Thread tension ............................................27

Threading

lower .............................................. 15, 16

upper .....................................................17

Troubleshooting ..........................................42

Twin needle

attaching ........................................... 9, 25

sewing ...................................................25

U

Upper tension control dial ...........................27

Upper threading ..........................................17

Z

Zigzag stitching ...........................................29

Zipper insertion ..........................................35

Operation Manual

Product Code: 888-X64/X74/X84/X67/X77/X87

Sewing Machine

English

888-X64/X74/X84/X67/X77/X87

Version 0

Be sure to read this document before using the machine.

We recommend that you keep this document nearby for future reference.

Please visit us at http://support.brother.com where you can get product

support and answers to frequently asked questions (FAQs).

Black

Brother J17S Handleiding

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