614660
1
Verklein
Vergroot
Pagina terug
1/132
Pagina verder
1
When using an electrical machine, basic safety
precautions should always be followed, including the
following.
Read all instructions before using this sewing machine.
When the machine is not in use, it should be disconnected
from the electricity supply by removing the plug from the
outlet.
To reduce the risk of electric shock:
1. A machine should never be left unattended when
plugged in.
2. Always unplug this machine from the electric outlet
immediately after using and before cleaning.
3. Always unplug before replacing light bulb. Replace
the bulb with the same type rated 12 volts/5 watts.
To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock or injury to
persons:
1. Do not allow to be used as a toy. Close attention
is necessary when this machine is used by or near
children.
2. Use machine only for its intended use as described
in this manual. Use only attachments recommended
by the manufacturer as contained in this manual.
3. Never operate this machine if
· it has a damaged cord or plug
· it is not working properly
· it has been dropped or damaged
· it has fallen into water
Return the machine to the nearest authorized
BERNINA dealer or service center for examination,
repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment.
4. Never operate the machine with any air openings
blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the sewing
machine and foot control free from accumulation
of lint, dust and loose cloth.
5. Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care
is required around the sewing needle.
6. Always use the BERNINA original stitch plate. The
wrong plate can cause the needle to break.
7. Do not use bent needles.
8. Do not pull or push fabric while stitching. It may
deflect the needle, causing it to break.
9. Turn power switch to “0” when making any adjust-
ments in the needle area, such as threading or
changing the needle, threading the bobbin or
changing the presser foot.
10. Always unplug the sewing machine from the electri-
cal outlet when removing covers, lubricating or when
making any other user servicing adjustments men-
tioned in this instruction manual.
11. Never drop or insert any object into any opening.
12. Do not use outdoors.
13. Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are
being used or where oxygen is being administered.
14. Before disconnecting,turn all controls to the off(“0”)
position then remove the plug from the outlet.
15. Do not unplug by pulling on the cord but grasp the
plug before pulling.
16. No responsibility will be taken for any possible
damage as the result of misuse of the machine.
17. This machine is provided with double insulation.
Use only identical replacement parts. See instructions
for Servicing of double-insulated machines.
In a double-insulated product, two systems of insulation
are provided instead of grounding. No grounding means
is provided on a double-insulated product nor should a
means for grounding be added to the product. Servicing
a double-insulated product requires extreme care and
knowledge of the system and should only be done by
qualified service personnel. Replacement parts for a
double-insulated product must be identical to those
parts in the product. A double insulated product is mar-
ked with the words “DOUBLE INSULATION” or “DOUBLE
INSULATED”.
The symbol may also be marked on the product.
This sewing machine is intended for household use only.
Safety Instructions
IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS
DANGER
WARNING
SERVICING DOUBLE-
INSULATED PRODUCTS
SAVE THESE
INSTRUCTIONS!
bed_artista_180_engl_V3 7.10.2002 16:29 Uhr Seite 1
2
Choosing a BERNINA Sewing & Embroidery à la Carte is a decision which
will have a positive impact on your sewing for years to come.
Customer satisfaction has been the driving force of our family company for over
100 years and I intend to continue that tradition of delivering superb Swiss
quality, future-orientated sewing technology and unrivaled customer service.
The new BERNINA family of creative sewing machines gives you the unique
opportunity to select what you need to satisfy your sewing needs and
requirements.
As the name suggests, the “artista” range of computer sewing is pure artistry.
These machines provide unlimited scope for total sewing pleasure. They inspire
creativity and allow you to translate your ideas into practical sewing of the finest
quality.
In addition, a wide range of sewing accessories, together with sewing publications
full of practical and creative ideas, add to the joy of sewing the BERNINA way.
It gives me great pleasure to welcome you into the BERNINA family.
Fritz Gegauf Ltd · BERNINA Sewing Machines · CH-8266 Steckborn/Switzerland
“Welcome to
the BERNINA
family!”
H.P. Ueltschi
BERNINA Sewing Machine
Company
®
I
bed_artista_180_engl_V3 7.10.2002 16:29 Uhr Seite 2
Contents 3
Safety Instructions
Forward
Details of the machine
Setting up the machine
Stitch Summary
Presser feet
Practical stitches/buttonholes
General instructions
Functions
Messages
Buttonholes
Alphabets/numbers
Memory
Quilt stitches/16-directional sewing/4-directional sewing
Sideways motion stitches – “Outline Designs”
Balance
Help
TTC (Thread tension/Tutorial/Creative Consultant)
smart function
Setup program
eco (ecological) function
Special accessories
Needles, Thread, Fabric Feed
Cleaning and maintenance
Troubleshooting
Glossary of terms
Index
1
2
4–5
6–11
12–14
15
16–17
18–23
23–29
29
30–38
38–39
39–44
45–47
47–48
49–50
50–51
51–53
54
55–67
67–68
68–70
71–73
74
75
76
77–78
bed_artista_180_engl_V3 7.10.2002 16:29 Uhr Seite 3
Details of the machine4
Details of the machine
Front view
Back view
1
234
5
6
7
8
11
12
14 15
16
18 19
20
22
21
24
26
27 28
29
30
23
25
17
31
35
32
9
10
13 33
34
37
38
39
36
bed_artista_180_engl_V3 7.10.2002 16:29 Uhr Seite 4
5Details of the machine
Bobbin cover
Stitch plate
Attachment base for special accessories
Darning ring connection
Presser foot
Needle clamp
Thread guide
Needle threader
Thread take-up cover
Thread path
Thread take-up
Bobbin pre-tension
Quick reverse button
F (Favorite Function) button
Pattern end
Screen
Bobbin winder with on/off switch and
thread cutter
Practical stitch button
Buttonhole button
Decorative stitch button
Alphabet button
External embroidery button
Quilt stitches/Directional sewing button
clr (Clear) button
mem (Memory) button
Needle stop up/down
“?” (Help) button
TTC (Thread Tension/Tutorial/ Creative
Consultant) button
Stitch width knob
Stitch length knob
Needle position
smart button
setup button
eco (Ecology) button
FHS connection
Presser foot lifter (manual)
Carrying handle
Spool pins
Sewing table socket
Thread cutter
Presser foot pressure dial
Handwheel
Power switch on/off
Power plug socket
Drop feed-dog
Foot control socket
Embroidery module (special accessory)
connection
PC serial port
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
32
33
34
35
36
37
38
39
40
41
42
43
44
45
46
47
48
View from the left side
View from the right side
41
36
40
42
48
47
43
45
46 44
bed_artista_180_engl_V3 7.10.2002 16:29 Uhr Seite 5
Setting up the machine6
Stores standard accessories
· enlarges the sewing
surface
· to open, lower the cover
to the front/back
Carrying case
· protects from dust and dirt
· compartment for accessories
Accessories
· foot control
· instruction manual
· power cable
· warranty card
· FHS presser foot lifter (Free Hand System)
· ruler for sewing table
· sewing table (attached)
· to remove the sewing table, lift slightly and remove.
To remove the case
· grasp both sides
· pull up vertically
Carrying case
Accessory box
To remove
· pull the box to the left to
work in free-arm mode
Note:
make sure the bobbin door
on the free arm is closed
before removing the box
To attach
·push the box to the right
until it engages
Standard accessories *
· four bobbins
· selection of 130/705H
needles
· seam ripper
· small screwdriver
· lint brush
· seam guide
· reverse pattern foot No.1C
· overlock foot No.2A
· buttonhole foot No.3C
· automatic buttonhole
foot No.3C
· zipper foot No.4
· blind stitch foot No.5
· open embroidery foot
No.20C
· sideways motion foot
No.40C
· height compensating tool
· vertical spool holder pin
· three spool discs
*can vary from country to
country
Important:
(USA/Canada only!) Use
only foot controller type
LV1/LV2 with sewing
machine models 170/180.
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7Setting up the machine
Larger sewing surface
· the sewing table
increases the sewing
surface
· free arm for larger
tubular items such as
pant legs and waistbands
Power cable
· the power cable is stored in the case
· plug A into machine
· plug B into electrical outlet
Foot control cable
· plug C into machine
Sewing speed
· control the sewing speed
by depressing the foot
control with your toe
· raise or lower the needle
by tapping on the foot
control with your heel
Use only foot controller
type LV1/LV2 for sewing
machine model 170/180
(USA/Canada only)
Raising and lowering the
presser foot
· the presser foot lifter
raises and lowers the
presser foot
· push to the right with
your knee
· the presser foot is raised
and the feed-dogs are
lowered simultaneously
· the feed-dogs come up
automatically as soon as
the first stitch is sewn
Sewing table
Power cable
Foot control Cable tidy
· wind the cable round the
spool
· insert the plug into A
When sewing
· unwind the cable to the
desired length and slip
into B or C
Power switch Power switch
The power switch is on the
handwheel side of the machine
1the machine is switched on
0the machine is switched off
The sewing light is switched on
and off within the Setup
program.
Refer to the safety
instructions!
FHS (Free Hand System) presser foot lifter
Attaching the presser foot
lifter
· the presser foot lifter is
stored in the case.
· insert the presser foot
lifter into the opening in
the base plate
· you should be able to
operate the lifter in your
normal sitting position.
Note:
Your dealer can adjust the
position if necessary
A
B
C
To attach
· push over the free arm
and press firmly so that it
engages on the fixing lug
(needle and presser foot
fully raised)
To remove
· pull to the left
· remove by pulling it
completely from the
free arm
Seam guide
· insert into the groove
(underside of table) from
the right
· it can be freely adjusted
over the whole width of
the table
Scale
· number “0” corresponds
to the center needle
position
A
B
C
Important! (USA/Canada only)
This sewing machine has a polarized plug
(one blade wider than the other). To
reduce the risk of electric shock, this plug
is intended to fit only one way into a
polarized outlet. If the plug does not fit
fully in the outlet, reverse the plug. If it
still does not fit, contact a qualified
electrician to install the proper outlet. Do
not modify the plug in any way.
bed_artista_180_engl_V3 7.10.2002 16:29 Uhr Seite 7
Setting up the machine8
To remove
· raise the needle
· turn power switch to “0”
· open the accessory box
cover
· open the bobbin cover
· grasp the latch of the
bobbin case
· remove case
Bobbin case
To insert
· hold the bobbin case
latch
· the opening on the case
should be at the top
· insert so that it engages
· close the bobbin cover
· close the accessory box
cover
Bobbin thread cutter
· insert the bobbin case
· take thread over cutter (A)
· cut thread
Note:
For normal sewing, the
bobbin thread does not
have to be brought up as
the loose end is just the
right length to start sewing.
Inserting the bobbin
The bobbin must turn
clockwise when the thread
is pulled.
Insert the bobbin so that
the thread runs clockwise. Pull the thread counter-
clockwise into the slot. Pull the thread to the left
under the spring until it
lies in the T-shaped slit at
the end of the spring.
Winding the bobbin
Winding the bobbin
· turn power switch on
· place empty bobbin on
spindle
Thread cutter
· cut the thread on the
thread cutter
Threading the bobbin
· following the direction of the arrow take thread through
the rear guide and round the pre-tension stud
· place the thread end through one of the inner holes in
the bobbin and hold the thread tail securely in one hand
· press the engaging lever against the bobbin
· press the foot control
the motor stops automatically when the bobbin is full
· remove the bobbin
A
Warning:
If your sewing computer is
equipped with an embroidery
bobbin case, thread the bob-
bin thread in the guide spring
only when the embroidery
module (optional accessory)
is in use.
Refer to the safety
instructions!
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9Setting up the machine
Changing the presser foot
· raise the needle and
presser foot
· turn power switch to 0
Attaching the presser foot
· guide the foot upwards
over the cone
· press the clamping lever
down
Raising the lever
· raise the clamping lever
· remove the presser foot
Removing the needle
· raise the needle
· turn power switch to “0”
· lower the presser foot
· loosen the needle clamp
· pull the needle down to remove
Inserting the needle
· loosen the needle clamp, if needed
· flat side of needle to the back
· insert the needle as far as it will go
· tighten the needle clamp
Changing the needle
Changing the presser foot
Refer to the safety
instructions!
Vertical spool pin
· the supplementary spool pin
(vertical) is stored in the accessory
box
· insert the pin from right to left in
the opening
· to remove, pull to the right at the
base of the spool pin
· essential sewing aid when using
more than one thread, i.e. double
needle, etc.
· threads wound onto spools in a
stacked manner work best when
feeding from a vertical spool pin
· using a vertical spool pin with
metallic threads will help avoid
fraying and splitting of the thread
Supplementary spool pin (vertical)
Refer to the safety
instructions!
bed_artista_180_engl_V3 7.10.2002 16:29 Uhr Seite 9
Setting up the machine10
Threading the upper thread
Attaching the thread spool
· raise the needle and presser foot
· turn the power switch to “0”
· place spool on pin
· attach the appropriate spool disc – diameter
of spool = disc size
· take thread through rear guide A
· then into slit of upper thread tension
Down
· pull thread down to the right of the take-up cover to B
Up
· take thread up to the left of the cover to C in the
direction of the arrow, placing it in the take-up lever
Down
· take thread down and through guides D and E
Needle threader
Thread in hook
· lower the presser foot
· lay the thread behind
hook A and hold lightly
Lever down
· press lever B down Thread in front of needle
· take the thread in front
of the needle C
· pass the thread from the
bottom to the top of the
needle until it catches in
the hook
Let go of lever and thread
· let go of lever B and
thread
· pull the thread loop
through the needle eye
Bringing up the lower thread
Bringing up the lower thread
· if bobbin thread is cut on the cutter (page
8), there is no need to bring it up
· hold the upper thread
· sew one stitch
· pull the upper thread to bring the lower
thread up through the stitch plate hole
· take both threads through the slit on the
presser foot to the back
· pull threads over the cutter
Refer to the safety
instructions!
A
C
D
EB
C
D
E
AC
B
Note:
The bobbin thread must be
brought up through the
stitch plate for certain
types of work. The length
of thread is sufficient for
most normal work if the
lower thread cutter has
been used.
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11Setting up the machine
Thread cutter Thread cutter on head frame
·pull both threads from front to back over
the cutter.
·the threads release as soon as the first
stitch is sewn
Stitch Plate Stitch plate markings
·the stitch plate is marked with vertical
lines in millimeters and inches
·mm measurements are at the front
·inch measurements are at the back
·the measurements correspond to the
distance from the needle to the line
·needle insertion point is position 0
(center needle position)
·the mm/inch measurements are marked
to the right and left
Feed-dog Button under the handwheel
Button flush with base plate = feed dogs
up, sewing position
·for all machine-fed sewing
Button depressed = feed dogs lowered,
darning position
·for free-hand sewing (darning, free-
hand embroidery, freehand quilting)
·for embroidery with the Embroidery
Module
25 20 10 252010
15/81/41
5/8
1/4
Presser foot pressure
Standard pressure
·for all normal sewing Reduced pressure
·for jerseys and loose
knits, quilting
·prevents fabric stretching
·adjust pressure so that
the fabric still feeds
correctly
Increased pressure
·for sheer, slippery
lightweight fabrics,
quilting
·improves fabric feed and
prevents puckering
Dial on head frame
·the presser foot pressure
dial is on the left of the
head frame
·the lines help to guide the fabric for
perfectly spaced stitching
·the horizontal markings are helpful for
sewing buttonholes, etc.
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12 Stitch Summary
Practical stitches Buttonholes
9 mm/40 mm decorative stitches
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13Stitch Summary
16-directional sewing 4-directional sewing
Alphabets
Quilt stitches
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14 Stitch Summary
bed_artista_180_engl_V3 7.10.2002 16:29 Uhr Seite 14
15Presser feet
Presser Feet
3A
Automatic Buttonhole Foot
Buttonholes in flat
materials
Darning program (shows
as Foot No.3A on-screen)
4
Zipper foot
Sewing in zippers
5
Blind stitch foot
Blind hems
Edge stitching
20C
Open Embroidery foot
Embroidery, applique,
satin stitch seams, monograms
40C
Sideways motion foot
with code
For all sideways motion
stitches
1
3
3A
4
5
40
20
2A
2A
Overlock Foot
Overlock seams,
oversewing seam edges
Note: The letter C after a foot number indicates the
foot is coded or equipped with a sensor for 9mm
stitching. When a stitch is selected with a coded foot
attached to the machine, the preprogrammed width is
9 mm, rather than 5 mm. This letter does not always
appear on the foot and in some cases does not appear
on the screen in the presser foot indicator.
1C
Reverse Pattern Foot
Practical and decorative
stitches
3
Buttonhole Foot
Buttonholes (shows as Foot
No.3 on-screen)
9
Darning foot
Used with the feed dogs
in a lowered position for
darning, monograms, and
freehand embroidery
32
BERNINA Specialty Presser Feet
The standard selection of presser feet covers most
normal sewing requirements but we recommend the use
of BERNINA specialty presser feet for specific sewing
tasks such as quilting, heirloom sewing, home
decorating, tailoring, etc.
They are available from your BERNINA dealer.
32
Pintuck foot with 7 grooves
Used with a 2mm double
needle to stitch pintucks on
medium weight fabrics such
as fine wool and cotton
9
Samples of Specialty Presser Feet
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16 Practical stitches
Practical stitches
1 Straight stitch
All non-stretch fabrics. All straight
stitch work.
2 Zig-zag
Most fabric types. All simple zig-zag
applications such as oversewing fine
fabrics, attaching elastic, lace and
appliqué.
3 Vari-overlock
Primarily for fine jerseys, stretch
overlock seams and hems.
4 Running stitch
Most types of fabric. Mending,
patching, reinforcing seams.
5 Securing stitch
All types of fabric. Secures the
beginning and end of seams sewn
with straight stitch.
6 Triple straight stitch
Reinforced seams in tough, heavy
fabrics.
7 Triple zig-zag
Reinforced seams in firm fabrics, visible
hems and seams, decorative stitching,
couching.
8 Honeycomb stitch
Most types of interlock and smooth
fabrics. Visible seams and hems.
9 Blindstitch
Most types of fabric. Blind hems, shell
edging on soft jerseys and fine fabrics,
decorative seams.
10 Double overlock
All types of knit. Sews and finishes the
edges in one operation.
11 Super stretch
Open seam in all super-stretch fabrics,
such as Lycra.
12 Gathering stitch
Most types of fabric. Gathering with
shirring elastic. Butted seams (edge to
edge).
13 Stretch overlock
Medium weight knits, toweling and
firm wovens. Overlock seams, flat
joining seams.
14 Jersey stitch
Natural, blended or synthetic fabrics
and delicate knits. Visible seams and
hems. Mending jersey/interlock.
15 Universal stitch
Firm fabrics such as felt and leather.
Flat joining seams, visible seams,
attaching elastic, decorative seams.
16 Sewn-out zig-zag
Oversewing woven fabrics, reinforcing
edges, attaching elastic, decorative
seaming.
17 Lycra stitch
All two-way stretch fabrics, flat joining
seams and hems, reinforced seaming
on underwear.
18 Stretch stitch
All stretch fabrics, open seam in
sportswear.
19 Reinforced overlock
Medium to heavy weight knits and
toweling, overlock seams, flat joining
seams.
20 Knit overlock
All knits, machine or handmade. Sews
and finishes edges in one operation.
bed_artista_180_engl_V3 7.10.2002 16:29 Uhr Seite 16
17Practical stitches
21 Basting
Basting seams, hems, etc.
22 Simple darning program
Automatic darning in fine and medium
weight fabrics.
23 Reinforced darning program
Automatic darning in heavy weight
fabrics.
24 Bar tack program
Reinforcing pocket edges, belt loops
etc.
25 Bar tack program
Reinforcing pocket edges, belt loops
etc.
For specific instructions on using various
practical stitches, refer to the artista 180
Sewing Manual, pages 2–20.
Buttonholes
51 Standard buttonhole
Fine to medium weight fabrics.
Blouses, shirts, trousers, bedding, etc.
52 Narrow buttonhole (heirloom sewing)
Fine to medium weight fabrics.
Blouses, shirts, dresses, trousers,
childrens and baby clothes, dolls
clothes and heirloom.
53 Stretch buttonhole
All stretch fabrics made from cotton,
wool, silk, and synthetic fibers.
54 Round buttonhole with normal bartack
For medium to heavy weight fabrics of
all types. Clothing, jackets, coats,
rainwear.
55 Round buttonhole
with horizontal bartack
For medium to heavy weight fabrics of
all types. Clothes, jackets, coats, rain-
wear.
56 Keyhole buttonhole with
normal bartack
Heavy weight, non-stretch fabrics.
Jackets, coats, trousers, leisure wear.
57 Keyhole buttonhole with
pointed bartack
For non-stretch firm fabrics. Jackets,
coats, leisure wear.
58 Keyhole buttonhole with
horizontal bartack
For firm, non stretch fabrics. Jackets,
coats, leisure wear.
59 Straight stitch buttonhole
For reinforcing satin stitched
buttonholes, making bound
buttonholes, and stitching
buttonholes in leather or imitation
suede.
60 Button sew-on program
For buttons with 2 and 4 holes.
61 Narrow zig-zag eyelet
Opening for cords and narrow rib-
bons/bands, decorative work.
62 Straight stitch eyelet
Opening for cords and narrow ribbons.
For more information on stitching various
types buttonholes, refer to the artista 180
Sewing Manual, pages 21–30.
bed_artista_180_engl_V3 7.10.2002 16:29 Uhr Seite 17
18 General instructions
Screen
The artista is operated with a combination of external buttons and
knobs and a touch screen.
Switch machine on
·power switch to 1
Welcome screen
·welcome
·appears for approximately 3 seconds
·can be omitted in the Setup program
Practical stitch screen
·the practical stitch screen appears
immediately after the welcome
·screen shows:
Apresser foot indicator
Bneedle stop position
Cassigned F function button
Dselected stitch and number
Estitch width (basic setting
always visible)
Fneedle position
(11 possibilities)
Gup/down scroll arrows
Hstitch length (basic setting
always visible)
Iscroll arrow for functions
Jstitch selection by number
(selected stitch is highlighted)
Kfunctions
ABCD E
F
GH
I
JK
bed_artista_180_engl_V3 7.10.2002 16:29 Uhr Seite 18
19General instructions
On-screen stitch selection/stitch display/functions
Stitch Selection
·touch the stitch of your choice
·the stitch is highlighted
·every stitch is displayed with its
number
Altering the stitch width
·turn the upper knob
·altered width is shown on the stitch
width bar
·the basic setting will still be visible
(shown at 3 mm)
·stitch width can be altered from
0 mm to 9 mm when using coded
feet
·stitch width bar automatically
shows 09 when using coded feet
·stitch width can be altered from
0 mm to 5.5 mm when using non-
coded feet
·stitch width bar automatically
shows 05 when using non-coded
feet
Altering the stitch width
·turn the upper knob
·altered length is shown on the
stitch length bar
·the basic setting will still be visible
(shown at 3 mm)
·stitch length can be altered from
0mm to 5.5 mm on most stitches
Altering the stitch length
·turn the lower knob
Display of selected stitch
·a graphic of the selected stitch is
visible in the center of the upper
portion of the screen
·the stitch number is displayed to
the top left of the stitch graphic in
the center of the upper portion of
the screen
Altering the needle position
·press the right or left needle
position button
·each press moves the needle one
position to the right or left
bed_artista_180_engl_V3 7.10.2002 16:29 Uhr Seite 19
20 General instructions
Functions
·touch the function of your choice
·the selected function is highlighted
(a number of different functions
can be selected simultaneously)
·touch the function toolbar arrow to
scroll more functions
·activate another function if desired
·touch the toolbar arrow to scroll
again
·the toolbar can be customized in
the Setup program
·For more information on functions,
see pages 2228
Return to basic settings
·press the external clr button
·the stitch will revert to its basic set-
tings
Presser foot indicator
·the recommended presser foot is
displayed by number
Needle stop adjustment
·press the needle stop button
·arrow points down
·the machine always stops with the
needle down
·press needle stop button again
needle stop reverts to up (arrow
points up)
Stitch selection
Direct selection by scrolling up/down
·touch the arrow (down)
·scroll the screen to view all stitches
·the top row disappears
·the next two rows move up
·a new row appears at the bottom
·touch the arrow (up)
·the first row of stitches appears
again
·the scroll function (up/down) is
used to find and view all the
machines stitches
·use when a visual search for a
particular stitch is needed
·when the desired stitch is located,
touch it to select
Stitches can be selected using one of
the two methods listed below.
Select a stitch by number
·touch the function 09
·the screen changes to stitch
numbers
·touch numbers to select the stitch
of your choice
·the number of the selected stitch
appears in the top row
Correct
·to correct mistakes or deselect,
touch del (top right)
·the cursor moves to the left and
deletes the number
·select new number
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21General instructions
Confirm and go to next screen
·touch OK to confirm
·the screen displays the selected
stitch
·the selected stitch is active
(highlighted)
Back to previous screen
·touch esc
·the previous screen appears
·if the selection was not confirmed
by touching OK, the stitch selected
by number will be ignored
Note
If an unavailable number is
entered, the screen will not react.
Simple menu selection External menu buttons
·press a button to select the desired
menu
·the first stitch, stitch program, or
stitch summary appears on the
screen
Practical Stitches Buttonholes
Decorative Stitches Quilt/Directional
Stitches
Alphabets Embroidery
Practical stitch button
·the practical stitch menu appears
·the straight stitch at the top left is
active (highlighted)
·15 practical stitches appear on the
screen
·use arrows to scroll for viewing
additional stitches
Buttonhole button
·the buttonhole menu appears,
including the eyelet and button
sew-on programs
Decorative stitch button
·the decorative stitch menu appears
·pattern types and sizes can be
selected including 9mm decorative
stitches and sideways motion
stitches (indicated with a cross
symbol)
·touch to select the desired stitch
group
·the selected stitch group appears
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22 General instructions
Alphabet button
·the alphabet menu appears
·touch to select the alphabet of
your choice
Quilt stitches/Directional sewing
button
·the menu of the 3 categories
appears:
·quilt stitches
·16-directional sewing
·4-directional sewing
·touch to select the category of
your choice
·the menu of all stitches in that
category appears
External accessory button
·the following accessories can be
used with the artista sewing
machine:
· embroidery module
· embroidery cards
·menu appears
·touch first choice to select
embroidery module or touch the
bear to select embroidery card
Setup button
·press the external Setup button
·menu appears
·use Setup to customize your
machines settings
·stitches and functions can be
combined to form a customized
(Personal program) menu
·customized menu (Personal
program) can be saved
quilt stitches
16 directions
4 directions
·saved customized menu (Personal
program) can be opened at any
time
·customized settings can be can-
celled at any time
External function buttons
clr (Clear)
·press the clr button
·stitch length, width and needle
position will be returned to basic
settings
·most functions will be deleted (see
individual functions)
mem (Memory)
·press the mem button
·memory is open and appears on the
screen
·the memory bar replaces the third
row of stitches on the screen
·press mem button again to close
·for more information on using the
memory, see pages 3944
Needle stop
·the default setting of the needle
stop is the up position
·press the needle stop button
·the on-screen arrow will now point
down
·the machine will now always stop
with needle down
·press the needle stop button again
to revert to needle stop up
“?” (Help)
·press the Help button
·touch a stitch or function
·a description of the selected stitch
or function appears
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23General instructions / Functions
Smart button
·press the Smart button
·the stitch is saved with all
adjustments to width/length and
needle position
·select a new stitch, e.g. button-
holes
·press the Smart button to return to
the previous screen with saved
settings
·use the Smart button to toggle
between stitches as you work
TTC (Thread tension/Tutorial/Creative
Consultant)
·press the button
·three menus appear on the screen
· Thread tension
· Tutorial (brief operating
instructions)
· Creative Consultant (advice on
fabric,needle,techniques, and
thread tension)
·touch to select the desired menu
·the information selected is activat-
ed and the appropriate screen will
appear
Needle position
·press the left or right needle
position button
·the needle moves to the right or
left as selected
·total of 11 needle positions:
5 left, 5 right, and center
eco (ecology) button
·press the eco button
·energy use by the machine is cut by
50%
·particularly useful for long
interruptions in work
·all settings remain active; foot
control is inactive
·screen saver is activated
·press the eco button again to
restore the sewing machine to
normal function
Quick reverse button (above needle)
·press the quick reverse button
·secure the seam beginning and end
sews in reverse as long as button
is depressed
·used to program buttonhole length
·used to program darning length
·used to switch to straight stitch
securing program (Stitch no. 5)
·used to start/stop stitching with the
embroidery module (special
accessory)
Single pattern (above needle)
·press the pattern end button
·machine stops at the end of the
stitch pattern
F (Favorite function) button
(above needle)
·this button can be individually
programmed in Setup with a
function of your choice
·selected function can be cancelled
and reprogrammed at any time with
another function
·personal program can be pro-
grammed into F button
·for more information on the
Favorite function button, see
page 5960
Setup
·press Setup
·menu appears
·use Setup to customize your
machines settings
·stitches and functions can be
combined to form a customized
menu (Personal program)
·customized menu (Personal
program) can be saved
·saved customized menu (Personal
program) can be opened at any
time
·customized settings can be
cancelled at any time
On-screen functions
Fields are highlighted when functions are activated.
Activated functions can be cancelled individually by pressing a second time.
All selected functions can be cancelled simultaneously by pressing the
external clr button.
Exceptions:
Needle stop and Double needle limitation
These functions must always be cancelled individually.
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24 Functions
Function toolbar
Pattern begin
·touch symbol
·the needle moves to the beginning
of a stitch or stitch combination
·field is highlighted but reverts to
normal after 2 seconds or after
beginning to sew
·if selecting Pattern begin for a
memory combination, the cursor
will appear to the right of the first
stitch on-screen
Applications:
·embroidery, buttonholes, working
in memory
Securing
·touch symbol
·individual stitches will be secured
at the beginning and end with 34
stitches
·securing in memory: stitch and
letter combinations will be secured
at the beginning and end
Applications:
·sewing individual decorative
stitches
·sewing individual letters
·sewing stitch combinations and
words
Long stitch
·touch symbol
·machine sews every second stitch
(max. stitch length 10 mm)
·can be activated for all practical,
decorative, and directional stitches
except buttonholes and sideways
motion stitches
·functions and stitches can be
combined
·can be saved in memory
·does not operate with the embroi-
dery module (special accessory)
Applications:
·combine with straight stitch to
baste
·combine with triple straight stitch
for topstitching
The following functions are available on the artista
sewing machines. Any function which can be used in the
selected program will appear on the screen in the bottom
row. If there are more than eight (or four memory
functions), the remaining ones will be hidden and can be
accessed by using the arrow in the lower right corner to
scroll. When a hidden function is active, the arrow will
flash.
Complete function toolbar as it
appears in the practical stitch program. Hidden functions that can be
accessed by scrolling with the arrow.
Note:
The scroll arrow and the 0–9 (stitch selection by number)
will remain on the screen for easy access and will never be hidden. A total of eight functions (or four memory
functions) will shown on-screen.
General functions
Scroll up
·touch one or more times
·screen scrolls up to show more
options
·touch the symbol continuously to
scroll quickly
Scroll down
·touch one or more times
·screen scrolls down to show more
options
·touch the symbol continuously to
scroll quickly
Closing special applications
·touch esc
·the special application closes
·returns to previous screen
OK
·touch to confirm and activate
adjustment/selection, e.g. thread
tension change
·programmed adjustment/selection
is ready to sew
The following functions are found on various screens and
programs of the artista sewing machine. They are consistently used in the same manner for specific tasks
when accessing and moving between different programs.
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25Functions
Motor speed 14, 12, 34, 44
·touch symbol one or more times to
select speed
·selected speed is displayed
·reduces or increases the motor
speed
·will sew the selected maximum
speed with the foot control fully
depressed
Applications:
·adjust speed for decorative sewing
machine work such as freehand
embroidery or freehand quilting
and when more control is desired
for the sewing task
·when children are sewing
Pattern end 1–9
·touch symbol one or more times to
select number required
·1 = machine stops at the end of an
individual stitch or stitch combina-
tion
·29 = machine stops at the end of a
stitch or stitch combination after
the number of repeats selected
Applications:
·sewing individual motifs
·combine with practical stitches and
4-directional sewing
Horizontal mirror image
·touch symbol
·machine sews selected the stitch in
horizontal mirror image (left/right
determined by the sewing direction)
·can be saved in memory
Applications:
·decorative stitching
·pattern combinations in memory
Vertical mirror image
·touch symbol
·machine sews selected stitch in
vertical mirror image (up/down
determined by the sewing direction)
·can be saved in memory
Applications:
·decorative stitching
·pattern combinations in memory
Stitch selection by number
·touch number symbol
·select stitch by touching the
appropriate number combination
Applications:
·quick selection of individual stitch
·quick selection for stitch combina-
tion in memory
Scroll
·touch one or more times to view
more functions
Applications:
·view all available functions
·combine functions with stitches for
individual motifs or in memory
Pattern extension 2–5x
·touch one or more times
·the numbers 25 appear depending
on the type of stitch selected
·the length of selected stitch will be
increased by 25 times
·lengthened stitches can be
programmed in memory
Applications:
·lengthen existing patterns without
affecting the stitch density
·combine stitches
Double needle limitation
·touch one or more times to select
number from 2 to 8
·the numbers represent the distance
between the needles in mm
·the stitch width will be limited
automatically
·this prevents the needles from hit-
ting the presser foot or stitch plate,
avoiding needle breakage
·can be saved in memory
Applications:
·sewing pintucks
·hemming knits
·decorative stitching
Continuous reverse sewing
·touch symbol
·sews the selected stitch in reverse
Application:
·darning with straight or running
stitch
·decorative stitching on sleeves or
trouser legs
·quilting
Half pattern
·touch symbol
·machine automatically stops at the
halfway point of the stitch pattern
·when stitching is resumed, the
pattern is completed and the first
half of the next pattern is stitched
before the machine automatically
stops again
·use Single pattern to stop at the
end of the second half of the stitch
pattern
Application:
·turning corners
·altering decorative stitches for a
new look
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26 Functions
Hemstitch (wing) needle limitation
·will not show up on the function
toolbar unless it is inserted by the
user
·can be installed in the Setup
program
·the stitch width is limited auto-
matically
·needle position is limited to center
·prevents the needle from hitting
the presser foot or stitch plate,
avoiding needle breakage
Application:
·hemstitching
·decorative stitching
The functions below are available in the Setup program
of the artista sewing machine. They are sewing functions
used from the sewing screens; however, they will not
show up on the toolbar at the lower edge of the screen
unless specifically placed there. For more information,
see pages 5960.
Tension
·will not show up on the function
toolbar unless it is inserted by the
user
·can be installed in the Setup
program
·touch symbol to access tension
screen
·tension changes affect the selected
stitch only
·visual change of setting appears on
the tension screen
·default setting shown by a fine line
·touch reset to return to basic
settings (factory setting or values
selected in Setup)
Functions in Setup
Personal program
·touch symbol
·personal screen appears
Applications:
·quick method to open personal
program
Back to basic settings
·touch symbol
·personal settings are reverted to
basic settings
Delete functions
·touch symbol
·delete functions
Insert functions
·touch symbol
·insert functions
The functions below are found in the Setup program of
the artista sewing machine. They are accessed by
pressing the external Setup button on the front of the
machine and then touching Functions on the screen.
These functions are used when setting the features and
functions of the machine to your personal requirements.
Balance
·touch symbol to open balance
screen
·correct forwards and reverse
stitches
·correct sideways motion stitches
Applications:
·adapting practical and decorative
stitches to various types of
fabrics
·altering decorative stitches for a
new look
·adapting buttonholes to different
fabrics
·adapting sideways motion stitches
to different fabrics
Clear All
·clears all settings that were
changed except those that were
changed using the Setup program
·returns to default settings
·Settings affected:
Continuous Reverse
Long Stitch
Pattern End
Securing Function
Horizontal Mirror Image
Vertical Mirror Image
Pattern Extend
Balance
Stitch Length
Stitch Width
Needle Position
Half Pattern
Double Needle Limitation
Hemstitch Needle Limitation
Needle Stop Position
Motor Speed
Alphabet Size
Monogram Size
Stored Buttonholes
Tension Function
Note:
There are two additional functions,
Tension and Hemstitch Needle
Limitation, available for placement
on the function toolbar (see
Functions in Setup, page 26). These
can be placed on the toolbar using
the Setup program (see page 59).
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27Functions
Functions in Memory
Delete
·touch symbol
·delete individual stitches or letters
to the left of the cursor
·delete stitch combinations
Applications:
·corrections in memory
·delete complete memories
Select memory
·the opened memory bank is
displayed with its number
·touch to display the contents of the
memory bank
·touch esc to close the memory bank
·leave memory: press external mem
button
Applications:
·working in memory
·saving stitch combinations
Store
·touch symbol
·saves individual stitches, stitch
combinations and letters
Application:
·saving programs
Edit memory contents
·touch symbol
·delete stitches, letters or numbers
to the left of the cursor
·insert new stitches and/or functions
·touch symbol again to close edit
Application:
·correcting, changing memory
contents
Scroll left
·touch symbol one or several times
·memory contents are scrolled
backward
Scroll right
·touch symbol one or several times
·memory contents are scrolled
forward
Check
·touch symbol
·memory contents are displayed
Application:
·check and correct memory contents
The following functions become available along the
lower portion of the screen when the external memory
button is pressed to access the memory feature.
Tension
·touch symbol to access tension
screen
·tension changes affect the selected
stitch only
·visual change of setting on tension
screen
·default setting shown by a fine line
·touch reset to return to basic
settings (factory setting or values
selected in Setup)
Long stitch
·touch symbol
·machine sews every second stitch
(max. stitch length 10 mm)
Securing function
·touch symbol
·the end of the last stitch in the
memory will be secured with 34
tiny stitches
·can be inserted between stitches in
the memory
Motor speed
·touch symbol one or more times to
select speed
·selected speed is displayed
·full speed is 880 stitches per minute
(unless the basic setting has been
changed in the Setup program)
·reduces or increases the sewing
speed 1/4at a time (1/4, 2/4, 3/4, 4/4)
Memory sub-division
·touch symbol
·the memory has up to 255 sections
or banks
·each bank can be subdivided as
desired
·total memory (all banks together)
holds 1023 stitches
Functions in Editing
The following functions become available in the center of
the screen when the edit function is selected. All func-
tions on the toolbar (except del) will become inactive
when the edit function is selected and will reactivate
when the edit function is closed.
Horizontal mirror image
·touch symbol
·machine sews selected stitch in
horizontal mirror image
·alteration of selected stitch is
shown on-screen
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28 Functions
Vertical mirror image
·touch symbol
·machine sews selected stitch in
vertical mirror image
·alteration of selected stitch is
shown on-screen
Pattern Extend 2–5x
·touch one or more times
·the numbers 25 appear
depending on the type of stitch
selected
·the length of selected stitch will be
increased by 25 times
·the stitch density is not affected
·lengthened stitches can be
programmed in memory
Balance
·touch symbol to open balance
screen
·correct forwards and reverse
stitches
·correct sideways motion stitches
Letter size
·touch one or more times
·one half of field is highlighted
·the gray section visually indicates
the letter size: large (9 mm) or
small (6 mm)
Monogram sizes
·appears in editing in place of Letter
Size function when a monogram is
selected
·when monograms are selected,
size 1 = 30 mm is automatically
activated
·touch symbol the middle field is
activated (2 = 20 mm)
·touch symbol again the right
field is activated (3 = 15 mm)
Buttonhole program functions
Buttonhole length – direct length
entry
·touch symbol to open number
screen
·enter button size (diameter +
thickness) in mm
Application:
·use this method if you know the
size of your button
Buttonhole length – on screen measu-
rement
·touch symbol to open measuring
screen
·hold button to bottom lower left
corner of screen and use the stitch
width knob to measure it
·buttonhole length will be
programmed with 2 mm added
automatically
Application:
·simple method to determine
buttonhole size
Manual buttonhole
·touch symbol
·follow procedure (46 steps,
depending on buttonhole type)
Application:
·for individual manually sewn
buttonholes
·to repair existing buttonholes
Stitch counter buttonhole
·select buttonhole
·touch symbol
·stitch counter buttonhole will be
activated
The functions below appear on the function toolbar at
the lower edge of the screen when any buttonhole
(stitches 5162) is selected.
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29Functions/Messages
Letter size
·appears in toolbar when any letter
or character of one of four
styles of alphabets is selected
·touch one or more times
·one half of field is highlighted
·the gray section visually indicates
the letter size: large (9 mm) or
small (6 mm)
Applications:
·size selection
·works in memory (letters do not
have to be reprogrammed but can
be resized using the edit function)
Monogram size
·appears in toolbar when any letter
of the monogram alphabet is
selected
·touch once or twice to select
·the number selected will be
highlighted
·monogram sizes are 1 = 30, 2 = 20,
3 = 15 mm
Application:
·size selection
One of the following functions will appear in the lower
left corner of the screen when a letter of an alphabet or
monogram is selected. It will reduce the number of
normal functions shown on the toolbar by one, causing it
to be hidden.
Alphabet program functions
Messages
The following messages may appear on the screen of the
artista sewing machine during certain operations.
They are reminders, warnings, or confirmations about
the function or stitch being selected. Below is a list
of the messages pertaining to the sewing machine (see
embroidery manual for messages that pertain to the
embroidery module) and the appropriate responses.
MESSAGE RESPONSE
Please check the lower thread. Check to see if the bobbin thread has run out. Wind and insert a new bobbin
if needed. Machine will not sew until this is corrected.
Please check the upper thread. Check to see if the needle thread has run out or has broken. Rethread the
needle thread if needed. Machine will not sew until this is corrected.
The bobbin winder is on. Check to see if bobbin winder is on. If the bobbin winder is on, the foot
pedal is inactive and the machine will not sew. Disengage the winder if
needed. Machine will not sew until this is corrected.
Note: This message will appear when winding a bobbin; touch esc to clear it
from the screen.
Do you really want to delete the Confirms the delete command before any stitches or functions are erased
contents of this memory? from memory. Touch OK to continue with the deletion process; touch esc to
abort the process.
Personal Program memory ist full. To save a stitch, an already saved stitch must be deleted.
Memory is full. To save a stitch, an already saved stitch must be deleted.
This function will not appear in Directional stitches and motifs (4, 16 direction and alphabets) cannot be
the personal program. stored in the Personal Program. Select another stitch from any other menu.
bed_artista_180_engl_V3 7.10.2002 16:29 Uhr Seite 29
30
Buttonholes
Buttonholes/Button sewing on
program/eyelets
·press the external Buttonhole
button (to the right of screen)
·screen shows an overview of all
buttonhole and eyelet types
· 51 standard
· 52 narrow (heirloom)
· 53 stretch
· 54 round with normal bartack
· 55 round with horizontal bartack
· 56 keyhole with normal bartack
· 57 keyhole with pointed bartack
· 58 keyhole with horizontal bartack
· 59 straight stitch buttonhole
· 60 button sew-on program
· 61 zig-zag eyelet
· 62 straight stitch eyelet
Select buttonhole/button sew-on
program/eyelet
·touch symbol
·selected buttonhole, eyelet or
button sew-on program is activated
·If one of the buttonholes (5162) is
activated, all functions are reset to
the default settings
Buttonholes
The following buttonholes and
related stitches are found on the
buttonhole screen.
For additional information on uses
for each type, see page 17.
51 Standard
buttonhole
Buttonholes are practical closures
which can also be used for a
decorative effect. The artista 180
provides a very versatile selection.
All buttonholes can be sewn and
programmed in a variety of ways.
3A
Programming the buttonhole
·press and release the quick reverse
button
·auto appears in buttonhole symbol
= length is programmed
·machine sews straight stitch
backwards
Automatic buttonholes (standard and stretch)
Both beads are sewn in the same
direction.
Buttonhole length =
buttonhole opening in mm
Note: the automatic buttonhole foot
No.3A must lie flat on the fabric, i.e.
not on a seam allowance, otherwise
the length will not be measured
accurately.
Automatic buttonhole
·the lens on the buttonhole foot
No.3A will register the length that
you determine automatically
·for making buttonholes from 429
mm length
Sewing the first bead
·the sewn section will be displayed
on the screen (to the right of the
presser foot indicator)
·sew the first bead forwards, stop
the machine at the desired length
52 Narrow
buttonhole
(heirloom)
55 Round
buttonhole -
horizontal
bartack
56 Keyhole
buttonhole –
normal bart-
ack
53 Stretch
buttonhole
57 Keyhole
buttonhole –
pointed bart-
ack
54 Round
buttonhole -
normal
bartack
58 Keyhole
buttonhole –
horizontal
bartack
62 Eyelet –
straight stitch
61 Eyelet –
narrow
zigzag
60 Button
Sew-on pro-
gram
59 Straight
Stitch
buttonhole
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31Buttonholes
·machine sews second bartack
automatically
·machine sews securing stitches
automatically
·machine stops and returns auto-
matically to the beginning of the
buttonhole
·all subsequent buttonholes will be
sewn automatically to the same
length (without pressing the quick
reverse button)
Auto buttonhole
·machine sews first bartack
automatically
·machine sews second bead
forwards
For buttonhole example, refer to the
artista 180 Sewing Manual, page 25. Buttonhole Leveler
(optional accessory)
When sewing a buttonhole using
Automatic Buttonhole Foot No. 3A
on an uneven area (such as over a
seam allowance), use the Buttonhole
Leveler. This accessory will create a
smooth surface for the foot and help
make a perfect buttonhole.
Automatic buttonholes (round and keyhole)
Auto buttonhole
·machine sews circle or eye auto-
matically
·machine sews the first bead back-
wards automatically
·machine sews straight stitches
forwards up to circle or eye
·machine sews 2nd bead backwards
automatically
·machines sews bar tack auto-
matically
·machines sews securing stitches
automatically
·machine stops and returns
automatically to the beginning of
the buttonhole
·all subsequent buttonholes will be
sewn automatically to the same
length (without pressing the
securing button)
Programming the buttonhole
·press the quick reverse button
·when auto appears under the
buttonhole symbol, the buttonhole
is programmed
Sewing the first straight stitches
·the sewn section will be displayed
on the screen (to the right of the
presser foot indicator)
·sew straight stitches forwards, stop
the machine at the desired length
3A
Both beads of the buttonhole are sewn in the same direction.
Buttonhole length = buttonhole opening in mm
For buttonhole example, refer to the
artista 180 Sewing Manual, page 26. Note:
The graphics shown on the screen are
the same as for a standard button-
hole (see above) when stitching a
round or keyhole buttonhole.
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32 Buttonholes
3A
Automatic buttonhole (standard and stretch)
Length calculated from button
Determine button size
·a scale appears on the screen
·hold the button (427 mm) against
the bottom left corner of the
screen
·use the external stitch width knob
to move the vertical line on the
screen, changing the size of the
box around the button
·the buttonhole size is shown in mm
on the right, e.g. 20 mm
Back to buttonhole menu
·touch OK to confirm and return to
buttonhole screen
Buttonhole size
·the computer calculates the
buttonhole size from the button
diameter
·2 mm are added automatically to
take the bartacks of the buttonhole
into account
Open calculation screen
·select buttonhole
·touch button size function
The buttonhole size can be deter-
mined by holding a button on the
screen. The length will be deter-
mined by the machine and displayed
on the screen.
3A
Automatic buttonhole (all types)
Direct entry length
On-screen display
·”auto below the buttonhole
symbol indicates that the
buttonhole is programmed
Enter the length
·numbers 10 appear on the screen
·enter the buttonhole length
(429 mm) with numbers
·the length appears to the right of
the buttonhole symbol
·touch OK to confirm, screen
changes automatically
Buttonhole length =
buttonhole opening in mm
Corrections:
·touch del to delete wrong numbers
Back to buttonhole menu
·touch esc
If the desired length of a buttonhole
is known, it can be directly entered
into the machine (in millimeters).
When using the Automatic
buttonhole foot No.3A for stitching
keyhole buttonholes, the maximum
length that should be entered is
24 mm. That leaves room for the
keyhole, which the machine will add
automatically.
Open number screen
·buttonholes can be sewn to a specific length with the
automatic buttonhole foot No.3A
·select type of buttonhole
·touch buttonhole with question mark symbol
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33Buttonholes
Corrections for thick buttons
·for buttons which are particularly
thick, e.g. raised buttons etc., do
not move the vertical line right up
to the edge of the button
·move it to within about 14 mm of
the right edge of the button,
depending on the button height
Recommendation
·sew a test buttonhole on a scrap of
the fabric and interfacing you
intend to use
·cut buttonhole open
·push button through hole
·correct the size if necessary
Stitch counter buttonholes (all types)
artack, securing stitches
·the machine sews 5 bartack
stitches and secures the
buttonhole automatically
·auto appears under the graphic of
the buttonhole on the screen
·the buttonhole is now programmed
·all subsequent buttonholes will be
sewn as programmed
Changes
·the buttonhole must be
reprogrammed after altering the
stitch length, width, or balance
For buttonhole example, refer to the
artista 180 Sewing Manual, page 27.
Bartack, 2nd bead
·the machine sews the end of the
buttonhole and automatically
switches to stitching the reverse
bead
·Continue stitching the reverse
bead, stopping when the needle is
even with the beginning of the
buttonhole
·press and release the quick reverse
button
1st bead length
·sew the first bead, stopping the
machine at the desired
buttonhole length
·press and release the quick reverse
button on the frame
Presser foot
·select buttonhole
·touch the presser foot 3 symbol
·the machine registers that the
stitch counter program has been
selected
·the buttonhole length is now
measured by the stitch counter, i.e.
number of stitches
3
The first bead of the buttonhole is
sewn forward and the second,
backwards
Stitch using Buttonhole Foot 3 or
Automatic Buttonhole Foot 3A; sew
at a consistent speed.
The appearance of a stitch counter
buttonhole can vary on different
types of fabric so it must be
reprogrammed for different fabrics.
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34 Buttonholes
Buttonhole corrections (all types)
Bead density
·increase or reduce the stitch length
by approximately 2 steps to achieve
the desired effect
Open balance screen
·select buttonhole
·touch Balance
·balance to increase the density
·balance to reduce the density
·Sew buttonhole until area to be
corrected is reached. Adjust balance.
Continue sewing. The correction
will be incorporated in all subsequent
buttonholes.
Recommendation:
·always test sew on the piece of fabric
you intend to use
Delete balance adjustments
·press clr or touch reset
For additional information about
buttonholes, refer to the
artista 180 Sewing Manual, pages 21–28.
Balancing the beads
·balance will influence the bead and
the eye density
·balance affects both beads and the
eye
Buttonhole too wide
·to reduce the width of the
buttonhole, reduce the stitch width
The following adjustments can be made to a buttonhole
and will remain in effect until the machine is turned off. Permanent adjustments can be made using the Setup
program (see pages 5567).
One buttonhole of each type may be
saved in special buttonhole memory
banks. This does not affect the
standard memory of the machine.
Long term saving of buttonhole
programs is only possible for
buttonholes originally stitched as
auto-length buttonholes (see pages
3032)
Once the length of the buttonhole is
determined, the programmed
buttonhole can be saved using the
store function on the toolbar.
3A
Buttonhole in Long Term Memory
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35Buttonholes
Saving the Buttonhole (Store)
·program the desired automatic
buttonhole according to the
directions on pages 3032
·touch store on the function toolbar
Recalling the Saved Buttonhole
·select the desired buttonhole style
·touch mem
·touch the buttonhole length or
button measurement function to
recall the saved buttonhole
·the length of the buttonhole will
appear on the screen
Changing the Saved Buttonhole
·select the desired buttonhole style
·touch mem
·touch the buttonhole length or
button measurement function to
recall the saved buttonhole
·change the length, and touch OK to
confirm
·touch store
·programming a new length over-
rides the existing stored one
Manual 4 and 6 step buttonholes
Open buttonhole screen
·select buttonhole
·touch the man function
Manual buttonholes are ideal when
making single buttonholes or for
repairing existing buttonholes.
The number of steps depends
on the type of buttonhole selected.
Note:
A manual buttonhole cannot be
saved.
Step symbols
·step symbols appears on the screen
for the buttonhole selected
·the arrow in the circle is on 0
when the buttonhole is selected
·standard buttonhole has 6 steps
·round buttonhole has 4 steps
·keyhole buttonhole has 4 steps
For buttonhole examples, refer to
the artista 180 Sewing Manual,
page 28.
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36
Sewing a Four-step Buttonhole (round and keyhole)
Sewing a 4-step buttonhole
·touch 1
·sew the 1st bead
·stop the machine at the desired
length
·touch 2
·machine sews the keyhole or eye
·touch 3
·machine sews the 2nd bead in
reverse
·stop machine at the first stitch
·touch 4
·machine sews the top bartack and
securing stitches before stopping
automatically
·length of beads is determined by
the user
·bartack, keyhole, and securing
stitches are preprogrammed
·use an awl to punch the keyhole
before cutting the buttonhole open
Leave program
·touch esc
·screen reverts to buttonhole screen
Note:
The graphics shown above will appe-
ar on the screen for both the round
and keyhole buttonholes .
Sewing the buttonhole
·touch 2
·machine sews straight stitch
backwards
·stop machine at the first stitch
·touch 3
·machine sews the top bartack and
stops automatically
·touch 4
·machine sews the second bead in
the forward direction
·stop machine
·touch 5
·machine sews the bottom bartack
and stops automatically
·touch 6
·machine sews securing stitches and
stops automatically
·length of beads is determined by
the user
·bartacks and securing stitches are
preprogrammed
Leave program
·touch esc
·screen reverts to buttonhole screen
Sewing a Six-step Buttonhole
Note:
The graphics shown on the screen
(see below) are the same when stitching the standard, narrow, and
stretch buttonholes.
Sewing a 6-step buttonhole
·touch 1 on the screen
·symbol shows section of button to
be sewn
·sew the 1st bead
·stop the machine at the desired
length
Buttonholes
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37
Straight stitched buttonholes are
particularly useful for reinforcing
satin stitched buttonholes on all soft
and loosely woven fabrics such as
wool, or for buttonholes which are
subject to extreme wear. They are
also useful for stitching bound
buttonholes and reinforcing button-
hole openings in leather, vinyl, or
felt.
Straight stitched buttonholes
·select stitch No. 59
·the sequence is determined by the
presser foot used
·this program functions exactly the
same as the corresponding
buttonhole program which will be
stitched over the straight stitched
buttonhole
Automatic buttonhole foot
No. 3A programming is exactly
the same as for the auto button-
hole program (page 3032)
Buttonhole foot 3 programm-
ingis exactly the same as for the
stitch counter buttonhole
program (page 33)
Alter the distance
·alter the stitch width if the distance
between the two rows of stitching
is too narrow or too wide
Straight stitch buttonholes
Cutting buttonholes open
Buttonhole cutter and block
·place the fabric on a piece of wood
·position the cutter in the center of
the buttonhole
·press the handle of the cutter to
punch the buttonhole
Seam ripper
·use the seam ripper to cut the
buttonhole open, starting at each
end and working towards the
middle
Buttonholes
Sew button on
2-hole buttons
·adjust the stitch width if necessary
to equal the distance between the
holes of the button
·machine stops automatically at the
end of the program
·wind thread ends around the thread
under the button to create a thread
shank
4 hole buttons
·adjust the stitch width if necessary
to equal the distance between the
holes of the button
·sew the two front holes
·move work forwards
·sew two back holes
·wind thread ends around the thread
under the button to create a thread
shank
Buttons with 2 and 4 holes can be
sewn on by machine.
Button sew-on program
·select stitch 60
·the button sew-on foot No.18 is
available as a special accessory
·the distance (shank) between the
button and fabric can be adjusted
as desired
Button Sew-on program
For button sew-on example, refer
to the artista 180 Sewing Manual,
page 29.
18
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38
Alphabets/Numbers
Monogram sizes
·when monograms are selected,
size 1 = 30 mm is automatically
activated
·touch symbol
·size 2 = 20 mm is activated
·touch symbol
·the right field is activated
(3 =15 mm)
·sizes 2 and 3 sew continuously
(starting at left lower edge and
ending at right lower edge) and
work with the memory for writing
words
·size 1 monograms are single motifs
(machine stops automatically after
each one) secured with the securing
stitch
·Size 1 monograms have templates
to aid in positioning (see page 48)
For alphabet example, refer to the
artista 180 Sewing Manual, page 43.
Alter size
·when an alphabet is selected the
larger size is activated
·touch symbol
·the highlighted area changes
·this indicates that the smaller size is
active
·touch symbol again
·the larger size is now active
Screen: Letter selection
·the presser foot indicator and
needle stop symbol are in the usual
positions
·scroll up and down to select letters
and numbers
Alphabets
·press the external Alphabet button
·the Alphabet menu appears
·screen shows:
· Block letters
· Double block letters
· Upper case italics
· Lower case italics
· Monograms 30/20/15 mm (sideways motion)
·touch to select style
·the selected style is activated
There is a choice of five different
alphabet styles.
Each alphabet can be sewn in two
sizes.
Large monograms can be sewn in
three sizes.
Buttonholes / Alphabets/Numbers
Eyelet program Eyelets
·select eyelet No. 61 (zig-zag) or
No. 62 (straight stitch)
Sewing the eyelet
·machine stops automatically at the
end of the program
Punching the eyelet
·use an awl to punch the hole in the
eyelet
For eyelet examples, refer to the
artista 180 Sewing Manual, page 30.
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39Alphabets/Memory
Programming letters/numbers
Continue programming
·touch to select the next letter
·the letter appears in memory
·continue in this manner
·for additional information on
saving in memory, see pages 3944
Monogram letters in memory
·it is possible to combine monogram
letters in memory
·the distance between letters is
programmed with the 16
directional sewing program
(see page 46)
·note the beginning and end of
each letter
For alphabet example, refer to the
artista 180 Sewing Manual, page 43.
Programming
·open memory
·touch to select letter
·the letter appears in memory
·the cursor moves to the right
behind the letter
Memory Stitches, letters and numbers can be
programmed, saved and corrected in
memory.
The memory has a capacity of 1023
stitches that can be divided into 255
memory segments or banks. The
memory banks are as large as requir-
ed, depending on the number of
stitches that are saved in each one.
The memory is long-term, i.e.
contents remain saved until they are
deleted or overwritten. Power
disconnections or long periods of
non-use do not have any effect on
the memory contents.
Any alterations to stitch length,
stitch width, and needle position
should be made before entering the
stitch into memory.
In contrast to the stitch menu,
selected stitches are shown turned
90˚ counter clockwise in the memory
bar. The sewing direction is always
from left to right on the memory bar.
For memory examples, refer to the
artista 180 Sewing Manual, pages
41–43.
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40
Programming stitches
Programming
·select the desired stitch
·make any desired adjustments to
stitch width, stitch length, and
needle position
·open the memory by pressing the
external mem button
·touch mem 1 to access the memory
storage screen
Note:
If the machine has been turned off
since the last time the memory
feature was used, mem 1 will show
on the screen when the memory is
activated. If the machine has not
been turned off, the last memory
bank opened will show
·select an empty memory bank
·touch OK to return to the previous
screen
·select the desired stitch
·the stitch appears in the mem field
·the cursor moves to the right as
stitches are selected
Continue programming
·select the next desired stitch
·the stitch appears in the mem field
·continue in this manner
·start sewing; when the foot control
is pressed, the cursor will go to the
beginning of the stitch combination
for sewing the complete grouping
Note:
If the contents of the memory have
been changed using the edit function
(page 41), the Pattern begin function
must be selected to start the
stitching at the beginning of the
combination.
·use Pattern end to stop auto-
matically:
Toolbar function Pattern end will
stop after the selected number of
combinations have been stitched
External button –Single pattern will
stop after stitching the stitch
pattern to the left of the cursor
·to save, touch store
·store will blink once to indicate it is
saving
Scroll memory
·scroll arrows are to the right and
left of the memory bar
·touch to view the programmed
contents either forward or
backward
·to close the memory, press the
external memory button
·if the stitch combination has not
been saved, a message screen will
appear asking if you would like to
save it
Memory
Open Memory
·press the external mem button
·the memory bar appears on the
screen
·the third row of stitches disappears
from the screen
·scroll up and down to view these
and further stitches
·the cursor appears as a vertical line
in the memory bar
·all changes (programming,
inserting functions, corrections)
affect the character to the left of
the cursor
·the function toolbar at the bottom
of the screen changes automatically
to include those functions appro-
priate for memory
·the opened memory bank is
indicated by its number in the
bottom bar
Open Memory
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41Memory
Programming stitches by number
Stitches by number
·open memory
·touch function 09
·numbers appear on the screen
·the memory bar remains visible
·touch numbers to select stitch
·the number selected appears above
the other numbers
Correct
·touch del in the upper right corner
to change the stitch number
·the cursor moves to the left and
deletes the number
·select new number
·touch del in the lower toolbar to
delete a programmed stitch
·the stitch to the left of the cursor
will be deleted
Confirm and continue programming
·touch OK to confirm
·the stitch selected appears in the
memory bar
·touch store to save in memory
·select the next stitch by pressing
the appropriate number and
proceed as above
Back to stitch screen
·touch esc
·the screen reverts to the stitch
screen which includes the selected
stitch
·the selected stitch is activated
(highlighted)
Editing memory contents
Stitches with functions
·stitches can be modified after being
programmed into memory
·program the first two stitches
normally
·touch edit
·all available functions appear in the
top right section of the screen
·the last stitch in memory (left of
cursor) appears above the editing
functions
Inserting functions, e.g. mirror image
·place the cursor to the right of the
stitch to which mirror image is to
be applied
·touch edit
·select mirror image in the functions
screen
·the stitch will be shown in mirror
image
·the same procedure for insertion
applies to all functions
·touch edit to close
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42
Memory functions
The following functions become available in the center of
the screen when the edit function of the memory feature
is selected. All functions on the toolbar (except del) will
become inactive when the edit function is selected and
will reactivate when the edit function is closed. For more
information on these functions, see pages 2728.
Motor Speed Securing
Function
Memory
Sub-division
Long Stitch
Tension
Horizontal
Mirror Image Vertical
Mirror Image
Pattern Extend
Balance
Letter Size
Monogram
Size
Memory
View memory contents
·touch check
·the memory contents appear in a
window
·the cursor is visible
·the cursor can be moved into
position with the arrows for editing
applications
·after viewing, touch esc
·the window closes and the memory
bar appears
·the cursor is in exactly the same
place as it was in the view window
View memory contents
Corrections while programming in memory
Deleting the last programmed
stitch/letter
·touch del
·the last stitch entered (left of
cursor) is deleted
Rule:
All changes and corrections are
always made to the left of the cursor.
Visible functions (in memory bar)
·the securing function appears as a
function in the memory bar
·delete unwanted functions from the
memory bar before continuing with
programming
·touch edit to close functions
Note:
Functions such as Long stitch and
Pattern extend can be used with
sideways motion stitches,
however, they will be distorted,
so it is not recommended.
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43Memory
Deleting a stitch/letter within a
memory
·place the cursor to the right of the
stitch to be deleted
·touch del
·the stitch to the left of the cursor is
deleted
Inserting a stitch in memory
·place cursor where the stitch is to
be inserted
·select stitch/letter
·the new stitch is inserted to the left
of the cursor
Saving memory contents/leave memory
Save and leave memory
·touch store
·the contents are saved
·the memory can be opened and
viewed at any time
·touch external mem button
Turning off machine without saving
·memory contents will be lost if the
machine is turned off without
touching store
Open individual memory
Returning to a previously
programmed memory bank
·open memory by pressing the
external mem button
·touch mem 1 on the functions
toolbar
Note: if the machine has been
turned off since the last time the
memory feature was used, mem 1
will show on the screen when the
memory is activated. If the machine
has not been turned off, the last
memory bank opened will show.
·an overview of the memory banks
appear on the screen
·the open memory bank is
highlighted (dark gray)
·the occupied memory banks are
displayed in light gray
·empty memory banks are shown in
white
·memory banks can be scrolled if
more than 15 are occupied (can be
up to 255 memory banks)
·select an occupied memory bank
·the contents are shown in the
memory bar
·touch esc to return to the previous
screen
·the contents of the selected
memory remain active
·you can sew, insert, or correct
these contents
Note:
Contents of memory should be
sewn from a stitch screen, not the
memory storage screen.
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44
Memory sub-division
·the contents of a memory can be
sub-divided as desired, e.g. name,
street, town, etc. by using the edit
feature
·program the name
·program the street
·touch edit
·place cursor after the last letter of
the name
·select Memory Sub-division
·the sub-divider is inserted to the
left of the cursor
·the characters belong to the one
memory (e.g. mem 4) but are
totally independent of one another
so they can be sub-divided as
desired
Sewing
·activate Pattern begin and sew
Note: when Pattern begin is
activated, the cursor will move to
the right of the first letter in that
memory bank. Stitching will start
with the letter to the left of the
cursor.
·the machine only sews the contents
of that particular sub-division
·to sew the next section, place the
cursor anywhere in that section
·begin sewing; when the foot
control is pressed, the cursor will
go to the beginning of the stitch
combination for sewing the
complete grouping
Note: if the contents of the
memory have been changed using
the edit function (page 42), the
Pattern begin function must be
selected to start the stitching at the
beginning of the combination.
·if a section is to be sewn only once,
touch Pattern End 1 on the
function toolbar
Memory sub-division
Deleting memory Delete memory
·open memory (press external
button)
·touch mem on the functions
toolbar
·an overview of the memories
appears
·touch memory of choice
(e.g. mem 3)
·touch del
·a message will appear asking if you
really want to delete the contents
of the memory
·touch yes
·the memory contents are deleted
·touch esc to return to the previous
screen
Note:
Fabric should be repositioned as
needed to stitch each section of
the memory.
Memory
Memory capacity Open mem screen
·open memory by pressing the
external mem button
·touch mem on the functions
toolbar
·the memory bank screen appears
·the total capacity used by stored
stitch patterns is shown in % in the
top row
·total capacity of all memory banks
together is 1023 stitches
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45Quilt stitches/directional sewing
Quilt stitches/16 directions/4 directions
Quilt stitches/
Directional sewing button
·the menu of the 3 categories
appears:
· quilt stitches
· 16-directional sewing
· 4-directional sewing
·touch to select the category of
your choice
·the menu of all stitches in that
category appears
quilt stitches
4 directions
16 directions
16 directional sewing 16 directional sewing
·select one of the two stitch choices
for 16 directional sewing:
· 39 Straight Stitch
· 40 Zig-zag Stitch
·a presser foot symbol with 16
directions appears on the screen
·touch the right and left curved
arrows to alter the stitch direction
·touch continuously to alter
direction quickly
·the machine sews the selected
stitch in the direction chosen
Straight stitch
·the stitch length is preprogrammed
at 3mm (in all 16 directions)
Note: The screen will show the
stitch at 1 mm. When stitching, the
needle hesitates to allow for the
movement of the fabric and
actually penetrates the fabric only
every third stitch, resulting in a
3 mm length
·the stitch length can be shortened,
but not lengthened
Sewing
·select direction and sew
·select new direction and continue
to sew
·continue in this manner as desired
Zig-zag
·the stitch length is programmed to
satin stitch
·the stitch length can be shortened
or lengthened to 1 mm
·the stitch width can be altered from
09
Note: When stitching with a width
wider tha 6 mm 7 mm, it is critical
to adequately stabilize the fabric to
prevent puckering and tunneling.
Sewing
·select direction and sew
·select new direction and continue
to sew
·continue in this manner as desired
Quilt stitches Quilt stitches
·selection of various stitches which
are particularly suitable for quilting,
piecing, applique, and crazy pat-
chwork:
· 326 Short Straight Stitch
· 327 Stippling Stitch
· 328 Hand-look Quilting Stitch
· 329 Blanket Stitch
· 330 Heavy Blanket Stitch
· 331 Blindstitch
· 332 Feather Stitch
· 333338, 351 Feather Stitch Variations
· 346350 Quilting Stitch Variations
·touch to select desired stitch
·the stitch is activated
·all normal information and functions
are visible on the
screen
·stitch length and width can be
adjusted as desired
For examples of 16 directional
sewing, refer to the artista Sewing
Manual, pages 44–45
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46
4 directions
·select 4 directional stitching
·select one of the eight stitches:
· 41 Straight Stitch
· 42 Zig-zag Stitch
· 43 Jersey Stitch
· 44 Running Stitch
· 45 Double Overlock Stitch
· 46 Blanket Stitch
· 47 Super Stretch Stitch
· 48 Honeycomb Stitch
·a presser foot symbol with 4 direc-
tions appears in the center of the
screen
·use the curved arrows to select the
desired direction
·the stitch length and width of these
stitches cannot be altered when a
direction other than forward is
selected
Sewing in 4 directions without turn-
ing the fabric is particularly useful for
mending worn areas in tubular items
(sleeves, trousers, etc.) and can also
be used in some decorative tech-
niques.
4 directional sewing
Quilt stitches/directional sewing
16 directional sewing – straight stitch with long stitch function
Straight stitch with long stitch
function
·press the external quilt/directional
button
·touch the 16 direction symbol
·select straight stitch
·activate the long stitch function
every third stitch will be sewn
Note: Without the long stitch
function, the needle hesitates to
allow for the movement of the
fabric, stitching every third stitch.
When the long stitch function is
activated, the needle will hesitate
for 9 stitches.
·the long stitch function is now
highlighted on the toolbar at the
lower edge of the screen
·select direction
·the machine sews in the direction
chosen, stitching 9 mm straight
stitches
Application
The combination of straight stitch
and the long stitch function is
particularly useful for joining large
motifs or letters (see page 45 of the
Sewing Manual). The connecting
stitches can be removed after the
sewing is complete.
16 directions programmed into memory
Zig-zag in memory
·follow the directions above,
selecting the zigzag stitch instead
of the straight stitch
·a presser foot symbol with a thick
arrow is displayed in the memory
toolbar
·each presser foot symbol represents
9 mm
·when stitching with a directional
zigzag stitch, adequate stabiliza-
tion is critical to prevent puckering
and tunneling of the fabric
Straight stitch in memory
·press the external quilt/directional
button
·touch the 16 direction symbol
·open the memory by pressing the
external mem button
·if the memory bank displayed is not
empty, touch mem to access the
memory storage screen
·select an empty bank (indicated by
a white space)
·touch OK to confirm the selection
·select straight stitch
·select the desired direction by using
the curved arrows in the center of
the screen
·a presser foot symbol with a thin
arrow is displayed in the memory
toolbar
·the presser foot symbol is turned
90˚ to the left
To see the true stitching direction,
look at the front (toes) of the
presser foot symbol and note the
direction of the arrow
·each presser foot symbol represents
three 3 mm straight stitches for a
total of 9 mm of stitching
·to sew a longer distance in the
same direction, touch the symbol
the appropriate number of times to
enter several presser feet into
the memory
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47
Sewing direction
·the machine sews the selected
stitch in the direction chosen
Sewing
·after direction has been selected,
sew for the desired distance
·stop the machine when desired
·select new direction and sew
·stop machine when desired
·continue sewing in this manner as
desired
Tip
·for quicker sewing, select the
Pattern End 19 function
·for applying a patch, the easiest
way to work is to sew in a square
from top to bottom and from right
to left (clockwise)
Sideways motion stitches
For examples of 4 directional sewing,
refer to the artista Sewing Manual,
page 46.
Sideways motion stitches – Outline Designs
Decorative motifs
·press the external button for deco-
rative stitches
·the decorative stitch menu appears
on the screen
·select a group of sideways motion
motifs (indicated by the cross
symbol)
·select the desired motif (use the
arrows to scroll for viewing all of
the patterns if needed)
Sideways motion stitches are large
decorative motifs stitched in outline
which require the fabric and feed
dogs to move from side to side as
well as backwards and forwards.
Sideways motion stitches are
programmed in one size and cannot
be altered.
Note: Different types of fabric,
interfacings, and tabilizers can affect
the stitching of the motifs.
Adjustment can be made using the
Balance function (see pages 4950).
For examples of sideways motion
stitching, refer to the artista Sewing
Manual, pages 47–49.
Sideways motion stitches
Sideways motion stitches in Memory
·sideways motions stitches can be
saved in memory following the
general directions on pages 3944
·sideways motion stitches can be
joined by using the memory
function and 16 directional stitches
(see page 46)
Sideways motion stitches
·after selecting the desired motif,
the stitch is activated
·all normal information appears on
the screen
·the crossed arrows symbol (at the
top of the screen to the right of the
needle stop) indicates that sideways
motions stitches are activated
·some patterns are single motifs and
the machine stops automatically
when it is complete
·others are designed for continuous
sewing, to be used for borders,
edgings, and decorative stitching
·sewing beginning and end are
usually at different levels within the
stitch, except for those patterns
designed to be sewn continuously
·use the provided templates to aid in
positioning motifs on fabric
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48
Templates
·the templates provided show the motifs in their stitched forms and sizes
·the stitch beginning is marked with a circle
·the stitch ending is marked with a cross
·the presser foot direction is shown with fine lines
·the presser foot must be placed on the fabric in the given direction
Sideways motion stitches
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49Balance
Balance
Open Balance
·touch function b
·if the function is not visible on
screen, touch the arrow in the
function toolbar to scroll through
all the available functions
All stitches are checked and fully
adjusted before the machine leaves
the factory.
Different fabrics, threads, stabilizers,
and interfacings can affect
programmed stitches so that
sometimes they might not close or
they might overlap, i.e. the stitches
that make up the pattern are too
close together or too far apart.
These effects can be corrected with
the electronic balance so that the
stitch formation can be adjusted
where necessary to suit the fabric.
There are 50 vertical steps and 20
horizontal steps.
Balance for practical and decorative stitches
Corrections
Stitch too long:
·touch the arrow shown on the right
(approximately 3)
·the number of steps activated will
be shown directly above the arrow
·the stitch will be shortened
·the change is not shown on screen
·25 steps are normally sufficient to
correct the stitch (max. 50 steps)
·sew a test and make additional
corrections if needed
Stitch too short:
·proceed as above, using the arrow
on the left
·sew a test and make additional
corrections if needed
Returning to stitch screen
·after all corrections are made,
touch OK to confirm the changes
and return to the stitch screen
·touching reset will return the stitch
to the same condition as when the
balance function was opened
·before selecting a new stitch, press
the external clr button to close
balance, otherwise it will affect all
subsequent stitches.
When sewing soft fabrics such as
jersey or tricot, the fabric tends to
stretch under the presser foot which
also stretches the stitch being sewn.
For example, the Honeycomb stitch
opens up and is too long. Thicker
fabrics might cause the stitch to
overlap, making it too short.
Correcting with balance is very
simple.
Balance
·select any stitch
·touch b to activate balance; balance
screen appears
·when adjusting practical stitches, a
graphic of the honeycomb stitch
appears in the center of the screen
(this is used as the example for all
practical stitches
)
·when adjusting decorative stitches,
a graphic of the satin stitched oval
appears in the center of the screen
(this is used as the example for all
decorative stitches
)
·two malformations are displayed on
either side of the stitch left too
short and right too long
·the arrows at the bottom of the
screen show in which direction the
stitch must be corrected
If the stitch looks
like this, use this
arrow to correct it.
If the stitch looks
like this, use this
arrow to correct it.
If the stitch looks
like this, use this
arrow to correct it.
If the stitch looks
like this, use this
arrow to correct it.
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50
Balance for sideways motion stitches
Balance
·select sideways motion stitch or
motif
·touch b to activate balance
·balance screen appears
·when balancing sideways motion
stitches, the selected motif is
always shown
·the stitch appears in the center of
the left half of the screen
·two malformations are displayed
either side of the stitch left too
short and right too long
·the right half of the screen shows
the horizontal balance possibilities
Vertical corrections
·if the appearance of the sewn
stitch is similar to the one on the
right of the screen, use the right
arrow to correct; the pattern will be
shortened
·if the appearance of the sewn
stitch is similar to the one on the
left of the screen, use the left
arrow to correct; the pattern will be
lengthened
·15 steps are normally sufficient to
correct the stitch vertically (max. 50
steps)
·if more than 10 steps are necessary,
the stitch will become smaller
·sew a test and make additional
corrections if needed
Horizontal corrections
·the horizontal balance is shown in
the right half of the screen
·the stitch might possibly become
too wide after vertical corrections
have been made, i.e. the center line
of the stitch becomes distorted
·if the center of the stitch has been
pulled to the right, correct with the
left arrow
·if the center of the stitch has been
pulled to the left, correct with the
right arrow
·510 steps are normally sufficient
to correct the stitch horizontally
(max. 20 steps)
·sew a test and make additional
corrections if needed
Returning to stitch screen
·after all corrections are made,
touch OK to confirm the changes
and return to the stitch screen
·touching reset will return the stitch
to the same condition as when the
balance function was opened
·before selecting a new stitch, press
the external clr button to close the
balance function, otherwise it will
affect all subsequent stitches.
Fabric, thread stabilizers, and inter-
facings can affect sideways motion stitches so correcting with balance
will sometimes be necessary.
If the stitch
looks like
this, use
this arrow
to correct it.
If the stitch
looks like
this, use
this arrow
to correct it.
Use these
arrows to
correct
horizontal
distortions
Balance / Help Program
Help
Help screen/Stitches
·the screen offers the following
information:
· name of the stitch
· suitable fabrics
· brief listing of main applications
Opening help
·press the external ? button
·select the desired stitch or function
·a clock on the screen shows that
the computer is searching for the
desired information
The Help program provides on-screen
explanations about individual
stitches and all functions, eliminating
the need to refer regularly to the
instruction manual. The information
shown corresponds to information in
the instruction manual, but is quicker
and easier to find electronically.
No matter which screen is displayed,
the help feature for stitches and
functions can be opened. Touch esc
to return to the previous screen .
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51Help Program / Thread tension/Tutorial/Creative Consultant
Note
The Help program can be opened
at any time without affecting the
work at hand.
Back to previous screen
· touch esc
· Help is closed
· the previous screen
appears
Help screen/Functions
·the screen offers the following
information:
· name of the function
· explanation
· brief listing of main applications
tering the tensions
·the perfect stitch formation is
shown in the center graphic
·the basic value is indicated by the
bar on the scale
·touch the arrows up or down to
alter the tension:
touch the up arrow if the stitch for-
mation looks like the top example
= need tighter upper thread
tension (the upper thread is loose
which allows it to be pulled further
through to the underside of the
fabric)
touch the down arrow if the stitch
formation looks like the bottom
example
= need looser upper thread tension
(the upper thread is tight which
pulls the lower thread further
through to the top of the fabric)
·the tension alteration affects only
the selected stitch and does not
remain saved when the machine is
off
Save and close
·touch OK to confirm the change
and return to the stitch screen
Back to basic settings
·touch reset to return tensions to
the basic settings
·menu appears
·select Thread Tension
·thread tension screen appears
TTC button
·press the external TTC button
Thread tension Basic tension settings apply
automatically when a stitch or
program is selected. The tension is
factory set for best possible sewing
results using a 100 weight, 3 ply
polyester thread
(
100/3
)
.
The tension may vary when using
other types of thread such as
embroidery thread, and it may be
necessary to adjust it to suit the
fabric and stitch type.
Changes can be made to the tension
of any stitch without affecting any
other stitches. To do this, the tension
function is accessed with the
external TTC button. It can also be
placed as a function on the toolbar
on the lower part of the screen and
accessed directly from the screen
(see page 26).
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Creative Consultant
External TTC button
·press the external TTC button
The Creative Consultant provides
information and help for a variety of
sewing needs.
After entering the type of fabric and
technique you wish to use, the
Creative Consultant provides
suggestions regarding needles,
presser feet, interfacings, special
settings, etc. The suggested presser
feet are not necessarily standard with
the machine but may be special
accessories which can be obtained
from your BERNINA dealer.
The Creative Consultant
automatically sets the correct thread
tension for the type of work
selected.
Tutorial
Information
·a clock on the screen shows that
the computer is searching for the
desired information
·information about the subject of
your choice appears on the screen
·touch esc to close the screen and
return to the menu
Subjects
·the Tutorial sub-menu appears:
· Beginning to Sew
· FHS system
· Help
· Tips and Tricks
· CPS
· Embroidery module
· Embroidery Software
·touch to select the desired subject
·touch OK to confirm
·to change subjects, touch esc to
return to menu
Menu
·the following menu appears:
· Thread tension
· Tutorial
· Creative Consultant
·touch Tutorial
External TTC button
·press the external TTC button
In computer language, tutorial
means self-help. The tutorial
provides concentrated on-screen
information about various aspects of
the machine.
52 Thread tension/Tutorial/Creative Consultant
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53Thread tension/Tutorial/Creative Consultant
Fabric menu
·3 columns of fabric types are
displayed
· light-weight fabrics
· medium-weight fabrics
· heavy-weight fabrics
·the most commonly used fabrics
are listed in the three columns
·if the fabric you wish to use is not
listed, select a similar type of fabric
·use the arrows to scroll up and
down for all choices
·touch to select the desired fabric
·touch OK
Menu
·the following menu appears:
· Thread tension
· Tutorial
· Creative Consultant
·touch Creative Consultant
Back to selected stitch
·touch OK to confirm
·the machine will automatically go
to the appropriate practical stitch
screen with the correct stitch and
tension setting automatically
selected
·if decorative work was selected,
the machine will go to the first
screen of decorative stitches with
stitch 101 selected
·sewing can begin immediately
·the suggested stitch can be
changed at any time
Information, special suggestions,
thread tension
·the screen displays settings and
suggestions for the type of fabric
and technique you have chosen:
· Presser foot number(s)
· Needle size and type
· Feed dog position
· Thread tension
· Presser foot pressure
· Stabilizer needed
· Special suggestion
·the tension is set automatically
(auto appears)
·there may be several suggestions
for the presser foot and needle
type
·some presser feet suggested may
be special accessories which are
particularly suitable for the chosen
technique (they may not be
standard accessories, but can be
purchased separately)
·select the presser foot and needle
according to your particular wishes
and preferences
·a stabilizer will be suggested if it is
required to suit the technique and
fabric
·provides a reminder to use button-
hole cord (gimp) if necessary to
reinforce a buttonhole
Techniques menu
·several common sewing techniques
appear on-screen:
· Seaming
· Overcasting
· Topstitching
· Buttonhole
· Zipper
· Decorative work (decorative
stitches)
· Machine quilting
· Freemotion machine quilting
· Appliqué
· Sideways motion patterns
·touch to select the desired
technique
·if the technique you want to use is
not listed, select a similar technique
·touch OK to confirm and move to
the information screen
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54
Smart Function Sometimes you have to interrupt a
task at hand to complete another
piece of sewing which must be done
before you can carry on any further.
The Smart function was designed
specifically for the purpose of
remembering the machines
current settings so that you can
return to them later.
The screen in which you are working
with all the settings you made can be
saved and easily re-opened.
Saved settings in the Smart Function
are lost when the machine is turned
off.
Application
·you have created and stored
something in memory
·you have tested or completed some
of the work
·you plan to finish at a later time
Saving the screen with the Smart
Function
·press the external Smart button
·the screen, complete with all the
settings (stitch, functions, memory
etc.) is saved
Second Task
·switch to any appropriate stitch
menu for another task
·complete this task
Smart Function – back to screen
·press the external Smart button
·the original screen appears
·all settings are exactly as you left
them and you can carry on with
your original task
Smart Function
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55Setup Program
Setup Program The Setup program allows you to
personalize the screen to suit your
own requirements and preferences.
You can change basic settings
permanently and program the F
(Favorite function) button on the
head frame (above the needle). There
are numerous possibilities check
the headings and decide what you
want to do.
All changes made in the Setup pro-
gram will be saved, even when the
machine is turned off.
The machine can be reset and
returned to the factory settings at
any time.
Setup
·press the external Setup button
·the menu appears
·you can alter any of the features
listed
·the original settings can be reset at
any time
Menu
·the menu lists all those features
which you can alter to suit your
requirements:
· Personal Program
· Functions
· Stitch length/width/needle
position
· Beeper
· Motor speed
· Thread tension
· Start screen
· Return to basic settings
· Sewing light
· Service
· Screen Contrast
·personal settings remain saved even
when the machine is turned off
·the machine can be reset to its
original settings or reprogrammed
with desired settings at any time
Functions in Setup
Personal program
·touch Personal program
·your Personal program is activated
·this function can be programmed in
the Setup program
Application:
·move this function to the toolbar
for a fast way to access your
Personal program
This functions are found in the set-
up program of the artista sewing
machine. They are accessed by
pressing the external set-up button
on the front of the machine and then
touching Functions on the screen.
These functions are used when
personalizing the screen to your
requirements and preferences.
Delete functions
·touch arrow
·removes functions
Insert functions
·touch arrow
·inserts functions
Back to basic settings
·touch reset
·all changes in the Setup program
are returned to basic settings
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56
Personal Program
Inserting stitches
·press the Practical stitches external
button
·select Honeycomb stitch (stitch 8)
Personal program (programming first
stitch)
·straight stitch always appears as
the first stitch
·personal selections can now be
entered in the empty screen
Setup
·press the external Setup button
·menu appears
·touch Personal Program
·Personal Program screen appears
Use the Personal program to design a
screen with the stitches you use most
often. Whether it is made up of
stitches for a certain type of sewing,
such as heirloom or garment, or just
your favorite decorative stitches, this
screen will make it easy and quick to
sew any project.
When inserting stitches into the Per-
sonal program, variations (different
stitch widths, stitch lengths, and
needle positions) of all stitches may
be entered into the Personal program.
Directional stitches and motifs and
alphabets cannot be stored in the
Personal program.
Setup Program
Personal screen
·the screen changes to the Personal
Program
·Honeycomb stitch appears
·touch store to save the stitch in
your personal program
·when a new stitch is programmed,
it will be inserted automatically
after the last stitch
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57Setup Program
Personal screen
·screen changes to personal
program
·the round buttonhole appears on
the screen
·touch store to save the buttonhole
in your personal program
·continue programming in this
manner until all desired stitches are
selected
Inserting the second stitch
·press the external buttonhole
button
·touch the round buttonhole
(stitch 54)
Favorite function
·for even easier access, your per-
sonal program can be programmed
into the Favorite function button
located on the frame of the
machine above the needle (see
page 5960)
Personal program function
·to open your personal program, the
Personal Program function must be
inserted in the function toolbar (see
pages 5960)
Save and close
·touch OK
·screen closes and Setup menu
appears
·touch esc to close
·returns to the last stitch screen
opened with the last selection still
highlighted
Personal program (additional stitches)
·the top row of five spaces is
occupied
·the 6th stitch appears in the next
row
·you can program as many stitches
as you want in the personal
program
·if more than 15 are programmed,
the arrows can be used to scroll the
screen as in the standard program
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58 Setup Program
Stitch deleted
·the stitch is deleted and all
remaining stitches move back one
space
·touch store to save the changes
Close
·touch OK
·the screen closes
·Setup menu appears
Personal screen
·personal screen appears
·select stitch to be deleted (will be
highlighted)
Delete the stitch
·press the external clr button
Setup menu
·press the external Setup button,
menu appears
·select personal program
Deleting stitches from the Personal Program
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59Setup Program
Functions screen
·all functions available appear on
the screen
·the bottom two rows of functions
are the same as those that are
active in the practical stitch screen
(includes functions that may be
hidden on the stitch screen)
·these functions can be used in any
screen
·all functions in the lower rows are
active
·the upper two rows of functions
correspond to the lower functions
·the arrows in the center row are
used to move functions
Removing functions
·select Motor Speed in the lower
two rows
·touch the up arrow
·the function disappears from the
lower rows
·the function has now been
transferred to the upper rows and
will no longer appear on individual
screens, such as the practical stitch
screen
·the function is highlighted in the
upper rows and has been deactivat-
ed (removed) from the lower ones
·move and deactivate other
functions in the same way
Insert function
·a removed function can be
reinstated at any time
·select Motor Speed in the upper
rows
·touch the down arrow
·the function is moved to the first
position in the function toolbar in
the lower rows
·all other functions move one space
to the right
Setup menu
·press the external Setup button
·menu appears
·touch Functions
Programming functions
Insert new function between two
existing functions
·a new function can be inserted
between two existing functions
·select a function from the upper
rows
·touch the position in the bottom
rows where you want to insert the
function
·touch the down arrow
·the function will be transferred to
the selected position
·the replaced function (the one you
selected
)
and all others will move
one space to the right
Program F (Favorite Function) button
·select any function (including the
Personal Program) from the top two
rows
·press the external F button (above
the needle)
·press the down arrow
·the F button is now programmed
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60
Changing basic settings for stitch width,
stitch length and needle positions
Changing the settings
·the stitch width, length and needle
position screen appears
·alter the stitch width and length
settings using the external controls
·alter the needle position with the
external buttons
·touch OK to save
·to return to basic settings, touch
reset
·touch esc to close Setup and return
to the last selected stitch screen
Open Setup
·select stitch for which you want to
alter the width, length, and/or
needle position
·press the external Setup button
·menu appears
·select stitch length, stitch width,
needle position
Setup Program
Beeper Setup menu
·press the external Setup button,
menu appears
·touch Beeper
·beeper menu appears
Save changes and close
·touch OK
·changes are saved
·screen closes
·Setup screen appears
Return all functions to basic settings
·touch reset
·all functions will be returned to
their original positions except the
Favorite function button on the
head frame
·to reprogram the Favorite function
button, follow the same steps
·the new function will replace the
old
·the programmed function is
displayed on the screen to the right
of the needle stop position symbol
·it can be reprogrammed in the same
manner as often as you like
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61Setup Program
Changing the motor speed
Setup menu
·press the external Setup button,
menu appears
·touch Motor Speed
·menu appears
Change the maximum motor speed
·touch the arrows to alter the
maximum sewing speed (880
stitches/minute is the basic setting)
·a reduction or increase in the motor
speed is reflected in this number
·each touch of an arrow increases or
decreases the number of stitches
per minute by 10
·any change of the maximum speed
affects all 4 speeds (1/4, 1/2, 3/4, 4/4) =
slower or faster at all four levels
Adding a signal
·select desired item from the menu
·touch on
·touch the number pad until the
number of beeps you want
(
1, 2, or 3) is highlighted
Deleting a signal
·select desired item from the menu
·touch off
·the audio signal is turned off for
this feature
Save and close
·touch OK
·changes are saved
·screen closes
·Setup screen appears
Audio signals
·audio signals can be applied to the
following:
· stitches
· functions
· feed-dog raised/lowered
(for embroidery)
· upper thread control
· bobbin thread control
· position of presser foot (for
embroidery)
· bobbin winder
· embroidery end
·audio signals can be turned on and
off
·the number of repeats can be
selected
·the number of beeps can be set at
1, 2, or 3
Save and close
·touch OK to confirm the change
·touch esc to return to the Setup
menu
·touch esc to return to the last
selected stitch menu
Back to basic settings
·follow the directions above to enter
the motor speed menu
·touch reset to revert to factory
settings
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62 Setup Program
Save and close
·touch OK to confirm the change
·touch esc to return to the Setup
menu
·touch esc to return to the last
selected stitch menu
Back to factory settings
·touch reset to return tensions to
the factory settings
Altering the tensions
·the perfect stitch formation is
shown in the middle of the left side
of the screen
·the scale shows a possible change
of +/- 20%
·the basic value is indicated by a
fine line at 0
·a changed setting is indicated by a
black bar
·touch the arrows up or down to
alter the tension:
touch the up arrow if the stitch for-
mation looks like the top example
= need tighter upper thread
tension (the upper thread is
loose which allows it to be pulled
further through to the underside
of the fabric)
touch the down arrow if the stitch
formation looks like the bottom
example
= need looser upper thread
tension (the upper thread is tight
which pulls the lower thread
further through to the top of the
fabric)
·touch OK
·the alterations are saved and the
screen closes
·the tension alteration affects all
stitches and remains saved when
the machine is turned off
Setup menu
·press the external Setup button,
menu appears
·select Thread Tension
·thread tension screen appears
Changing the basic thread tension setting
The basic tension setting of the artista
machine applies to all stitches of the
machine. The tension is factory set for
best possible sewing results using a
100 weight, 3 ply polyester thread
(
100/3
)
. Other types and weights can
affect the stitch, causing a need for a
tension adjustment to get the best
results.
The overall tension setting of the
machine can be tightened or loosened
up to 20% in the Setup program. This
setting will remain in effect until it is
changed again, even if the machine is
turned off.
Changing the tension setting in the
Setup program will affect all stitches
of the machine. Any secondary
changes using the TTC button (see
page 51) will be changed using the
basic setting as a base.
Note: Basic setting refers to the over-
all tension setting of the machine. This
may be the factory setting or your
own if you have adjusted the tension
in the Setup program.
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63Setup Program
Start screen on and off
Save and close
·touch OK to confirm the change
·touch esc to return to the Setup
menu
·touch esc to return to the last
selected stitch menu
Turn start screen off
·start screen appears
·the start screen can be turned on or
off
·touch off
·the start screen will not appear next
time the machine is turned on
·the practical stitch menu appears
immediately when the machine is
turned on
Turn start screen on
·touch on
·the start screen will appear every
time the machine is turned on,
followed automatically by the
practical stitch menu
Setup menu
·press the external Setup button
·menu appears
·touch Start Screen
· a message will appear switch off
and on your machine
·the factory settings are restored
·a message will appear asking you
to confirm that you want to return
the machine to the basic settings
·touch yes; the Setup screen
reappears
·a clock shows on the screen
indicating that all changes
in Setup are being reversed
·touch no; the Setup screen
reappears
·all existing changes to Setup
remain in effect
Setup menu
·press the external Setup button,
menu appears
·touch Return to Basic Settings
Return to basic settings
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64 Setup Program
Save and close
·touch OK to confirm the change
·touch esc to return to the Setup
menu
·touch esc to return to the last
selected stitch menu
Switch light on/off
·touch on
·light will be on continuously when
machine is turned on
·touch off
·light will not come on at all
Setup menu
·press the external Setup button,
menu appears
·select Sewing Light
Sewing light
Service The service function of the Setup
program gives information about the
version of software in the artista
and lets you make calibration
adjustments to the screen and hoop
of the embroidery module (special
accessory).
Setup menu
·press the external Setup button,
menu appears
·touch service
Version Information The version screen shows information
about the version of software loaded
into the sewing machine and embroi-
dery module (special accessory). This
information is helpful if you are
asking questions of the dealer or if
you plan to upgrade the software.
Service Screen
·service screen appears
·select version
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65Setup Program
Calibration
·screen calibration screen appears
·press each black point in the center,
one after the other
·it is not important which point is
selected first
·the machine will beep when the
dots are touched to let you know
contact was made
·will automatically go back to the
previous screen
·touch esc to return to the setup
screen
·touch esc to return to last selected
stitch screen
Important Note:
When calibrating the screen, take
care to touch the black dots only.
If the screen is miscalibrated by
touching any area other than the
black dots, it may require a technical
adjustment by an authorized
technician.
Service Screen
·service screen appears
·select screen
·select this screen if the on-screen
buttons do not react properly when
selected (touched)
Setup menu
·press the external Setup button,
menu appears
·touch Service
Calibrating the screen is important
for making on-screen selections by
touch. If the screen is not calibrated,
you may touch one selection and the
machine will read one next to it. For
precision touch selection, the screen
must may be calibrated.
Note: The screen is calibrated at the
factory, but shipping and transport-
ing may affect it.
The screen only needs to be cali-
brated if there is a problem with
precision touching.
Screen Calibration
Version information
·version screen appears
·shows the version of software
loaded into the artista sewing
machine
·shows the version of software
loaded into the embroidery module
(special accessory), if applicable
·the embroidery module must be
connected to the machine to show
the version on the screen
·the version of software in the
sewing machine and in the embroi-
dery module must be the same for
optimum results
·touch esc to return to the previous
screen
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66 Setup Program
Save and close
·Touch OK close the screen
·Touch esc close Setup
·Touch check in Layout 1 close
embroidery hoop adjustment
Hoop adjustment
·hoop adjustment screen appears
·connect the embroidery module to
the machine
·attach the large hoop to the
embroidery module
·insert the embroidery template into
the hoop
·touch check the machine reads
the hoop position; the needle
should be positioned exactly over
the center point of the template
·if it is not, adjust with the arrows
·it is only necessary to adjust the
hoop once the same setting
changes will apply to all the hoops
Service Screen
·service screen appears
·select Adjustment of hoop
Setup menu
·press the external Setup button
·menu appears
·touch service
Embroidery hoop adjustment
This adjustment calibrates the needle
to the center of the embroidery hoop.
The hoop adjustment can only be
activated if the embroidery module is
attached
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67Setup Program / eco function
The green eco (ecology) function
button on the front of the machine
saves energy when the machine is
not in use, but you dont want to
turn it off and lose the settings. It
can be compared to the sleep feature
on a computer.
If the eco function is activated, the
machine uses about 50% less energy.
The screen in which you are currently
working, all memory contents, and
any other functions which you have
selected remain active. The screen
goes dark and details are just visible.
Once you begin working again, the
machine will be returned to its
normal state.
Besides saving energy, the eco
function is also a child safety device.
Once the eco function is activated,
the machine is locked and the foot
control is inactive. The machine will
only sew after turning off the eco
function (pressing the button once),
returning it to the last active screen.
eco Function
Leave Setup program
·touch esc
·Setup is closed
·changes are saved
·changes remain saved when the
machine is turned off
Leave Setup program
Adjust contrast
·two adjustments are provided to
adjust the contrast
( = lighter, + = darker)
·touch to increase or reduce the
contrast
·the original screen is visible on the
left to control and check the
adjustments as they are being made
Save and close
·touch OK
·changes are saved
·screen closes
·Setup menu appears
Setup menu
·press the external Setup button,
menu appears
·touch contrast (lower right of
screen)
·contrast screen appears
Screen contrast The contrast of the screen can be
adjusted for easier viewing.
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68 eco Function / Special Accessories
The following pages offer informa-
tion about additional accessories and
attachments available for the artista
sewing machine. These accessories
will add to the capabilities and
versatility of the machine, offering
unlimited possibilities for expressing
your creativity.
Ask your Bernina dealer for more
details!
Special Accessories
CPS Program CPS Program
(Customized Pattern Selection)
Sewing computer
This computer program allows you to
replace a variety of stitches.
The CPS program allows you to
personalize your sewing machine to
suit your preferences and sewing
requirements. And you can do it as
often as you want.
Ask your BERNINA dealer for further
details!
Embroidery module
(optional accessory)
This computer program allows you to
replace the modules stitches and
alphabets.
Screen
·screen goes dark, details are just
visible
·the machine will not sew in eco
mode, it is locked
·all settings remain
·foot control will not operate the
machine
Return to sewing
·touch the eco button
·machine returns to normal function
·the eco function is cleared when
the machine is turned off
Eco function
·touch the external eco button
·energy used will be reduced by
50%
·useful when interrupting work for
longer periods
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69Special Accessories
Designs
·embroidery menu appears
·touch the embroidery module
symbol to access the
preprogrammed designs
·touch the teddy bear symbol to
access designs from cards (extra
accessories see page 6970)
·the position, size, and density of
the motifs can be altered
·designs can mirror imaged, as well
as rotated
·a detailed instruction manual is
supplied with the embroidery
module.
Connecting the embroidery module
·turn the sewing machine off
·remove the accessory box or sewing
table
·position the module on the back of
the free arm
·push the engaging lugs into the
base plate of the machine (back
right)
·insert the plug in the connection on
the right side of the machine
(embroidery module symbol)
·turn sewing machine on
Embroidery module Embroidery module
(special accessory)
The embroidery module is a wonder-
ful addition to your sewing machine,
offering you unlimited possibilities to
use your imagination and creativity
to their full extent. It provides the
possibility of sewing a wonderful
array of large motifs in full color.
The module attaches to the free arm
and is connected to the right side of
the machine in the connecting socket
provided; it comes preprogrammed
with 18 assorted motifs. When
selected, they appear on the screen
and can be sewn immediately.
You can position, mirror image,
enlarge and reduce the motifs.
Additional embroidery motifs, cover-
ing a wide range of subjects, are
available on cards. Just insert a card
into the embroidery module, select,
and sew!
A detailed instruction manual is
supplied with the embroidery module.
Embroidery card menu
·the embroidery menu appears
·touch the teddy bear symbol
Inserting the card
·turn the sewing machine off
·insert the card into the slot in the
module
Preprogrammed embroidery design
cards covering a wide range of
subjects can be used in conjunction
with the embroidery module.
Each card is devoted to one
particular theme. New cards are
introduced on a regular basis so that
you can build up a diverse library of
beautiful motifs, each relating to a
specific subject or theme.
The cards are inserted into the
embroidery module. You can then
view the motifs on the screen of your
sewing machine.
Embroidery cards
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70 Special Accessories
Embroidery motifs on the card
·the first motif screen appears
·each motif is numbered
·scroll to view further motifs
·select and sew the same as for
stitches programmed on the
embroidery module.
Connection cable
·turn the machine off before
attaching the cable
·insert the cable into the
appropriate socket on the right side
of the machine (PC symbol)
·turn the machine on
Detailed instruction manuals are
supplied with the artista software
programs.
BERNINA Embroidery Software which
allows you to combine, mirror image,
resize and embellish existing motifs.
You can also create and embroider
your own designs up to 155 x
200mm.The process is controlled by
you from the first stitch on your
screen to the finished motif on
fabric. Each design is uniquely yours.
You design your machine does the
work!
The finished creations are transferred
directly via a connecting cable (9-pin
serial port on the machine) to the
embroidery module. The designs can
be saved in blank memory cards or
the embroidery module itself.
The Windows format of this PC
program will be familiar to many of
you and is easy to understand and
use. A computer scanner, which can
be purchased at computer stores, is a
real design aid, allowing you to scan
clip art and original designs for
digitizing.
Ways to save your PC designs
· on your PC
· on a blank memory card inserted in
the embroidery module
· on a blank memory card inserted in
the reader/writer box (optional
accessory)
· on the embroidery module itself
PC Embroidery Software
(optional accessory)
bed_artista_180_engl_V3 7.10.2002 16:30 Uhr Seite 70
71Needle, thread, fabric feed
Needle/
thread table 70 80 90 100 110–120
Darning thread
Embroidery
thread
Mercerized
cotton thread
Synthetic thread
Thick threads,
synthetic merc.
thread
Buttonhole thread
for decorative
seams (cordonnet)
Important facts about sewing machine needles
Sewing machine, needle and thread
Your Bernina uses needle system 130/705H.
Needle and thread
The most commonly sold needles are nos. 70120. The
finer the needle, the lower the number. The table shows
you which needle is suitable for which threads. The
needle size select must correspond to the thread size.
Needle and
fabric/Condition of needle
The needle must be in
perfect condition.
Problems can occur with
damaged needles.
Correct needle/thread
combination
When sewing, the thread
runs in the long groove on
the needle.
Unsatisfactory
needle/thread combination
If the needle is too fine the
groove on the front cannot
accommodate the thread
and faulty stitching occurs.
bent needle blunt needle burred needle
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72
Special materials are easier to sew if the appropriate needle is used. Special needles are
available at your BERNINA dealer.
Needle table Description Needle point Suitable for
Standard 130/705H Normal point, Universal needle for woven,
needle slightly rounded synthetic and natural fibers, e.g.
linen, chiffon, batiste, organdy,
wool, satin, decorative stitching,
embroidery
Special 130/70H-SES Fine ball point Fine knits, especially for synthetic
needles fibers
130/705H-SUK Medium Heavier knits in synthetic or natural
ball point fibers
130/705H-S Medium Special needle for delicate of
ball point, difficult stretch fabrics
stretch
Jeans needles 130/705H-J Very fine point Overalls, heavy linen, denim, can-
vas. Pierces dense fabrics easily
Leather 130/705 Cutting point Natural and synthetic leather,
needle H-LR+H-LL plastic, coated and waxed fabric
Double needle 130/705 H/TWI Needle distance Visible hems in stretch fabrics,
1.6, 2.0, 2.5, 3.0, pintucks, decorative sewing
4.0, 6.0, 8.0
Triple needle 130/705 H/TRI Needle distance Decorative sewing
2.5, 3.0
Hemstitch 130/705H/HE wide needle Hemstitching in fine fabrics
needle
Important facts about sewing machine needles
Needle, thread, fabric feed
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73Needle, thread, fabric feed
1
Feed-dog and fabric feed
Height Compensation Tool
Feed-dog and sewing corners
Let the fabric feed evenly! Holding back will result in
thread build-up.
Pulling or pushing will
result in gaps.
The feed-dog can work
normally when the foot is
level.
If the foot is at an angle,
e.g. when sewing over
thick to thin or vice-versa,
the feed-dog cannot grip
and feed the fabric.
To solve this problem,
place one, two or three
compensating plates as
required behind the needle
under the presser foot.
Correct this by placing one
or more compensating
plates as close as possible
to the edge of the fabric.
When sewing corners only
a small section of the
fabric is actually on the
feed-dog so that it cannot
grip the fabric well.
The gap between the two
rows of teeth is relatively
large due to the width of
the stitch plate hole.
To correct the height in
front of the foot, place
one or more plates to the
right of the foot next to
the needle. Sew until the
foot is level again and
remove the plates.
Important
Feed-dog and stitch length
With each stitch the feed-dog moves forward by one step.
The length of this step is determined by the stitch length
selected. With an extremely short stitch length, the steps
are short. The fabric moves under the foot quite slowly,
even at full sewing speed. Buttonholes, satin stitch and
some decorative stitches are sewn with a very short stitch
length.
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74
Cleaning
If the machine is stored in a cold room, it
should be brought to a warm room about
1 hour before use.
Cleaning
Periodically remove thread lint and
remnants which collect under the stitch
plate.
·turn power switch to 0
·remove presser foot and needle
·open the free-arm cover
·press the stitch plate down at the back
right corner
·lift and remove it
·clean the area with the brush
·replace the stitch plate
Cleaning the hook
·power switch to 0
·remove the bobbin case
·clean the hook using the brush provided
or a cotton swab. The use of any sharp
instrument could damage the hook.
·insert the bobbin case
Important!
Never use oil, alcohol or
solvents of any kind on any
part of the machine!
Lubricating
·squeeze 23 drops of oil
into the hook race
·run the machine for a
short time without
thread to prevent oil
soiling your work
Cleaning the screen
·wipe with a damp cloth Cleaning the machine
·wipe with a damp cloth
·if very soiled, wipe with a solution of
water and a few drops of liquid soap
Cleaning, Maintenance, Troubleshooting
Replacing the bulp
Front cover
·turn power switch to 0
·loosen the screw
Note:
Use bulb type
12V 5W W2.1 x 9.5d
Change the bulb
·remove the left side cover
·remove the bulb
·insert the new bulb
·replace cover and tighten
screw
Warning:
Let the bulb cool down
before replacing!
Please refer to the safety instructions!
For models with new sewing-light see page 75
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75Trouble shooting
Trouble shooting
In most cases you will be able to identify and remedy
faults by checking the following.
Check whether:
·the upper and lower threads are threaded correctly
·the needle is inserted as far up as possible with the flat
side to the back
·the needle size is correct check the needle/thread
table
·the machine is clean brush out any thread lint
·the hook race is clean
·any threads are trapped between the tension discs or
under the bobbin case spring
Upper thread breaks
·upper thread tension is too tight
·needle is not designed to be used with the chosen
thread
·needle has been inserted incorrectly the flat side of
the shank must be to the back
·needle is bent or blunt
·for additional needle information, check the Creative
Consultant and the charts on pages 7172
·poor quality, knotted or dried out thread has been used
·use the correct spool disc
·stitch plate or hook tip damaged take your machine
to your BERNINA®dealer
Lower thread breaks
·the lower thread tension is too tight.
·the bobbin is jamming in the bobbin case. Remove and
replace the bobbin.
·the hole in the stitch plate has been damaged by the
needle. This must be polished by an authorized
BERNINA®service technician
·the needle is blunt or bent.
Skipped stitches
·wrong needles used use only 130/705H system
·the needle is blunt, bent or incorrectly inserted push
completely to the top when inserting.
·the needle point does not suit the fabric being sewn
if necessary, use a ball point or stretch needle for
knitted fabrics and a cutting point for hard leather.
Needle breaks
·needle clamp screw loose.
·fabric taken out forward instead of behind the presser
foot.
·when sewing over thick area, the fabric was pushed
with the needle still in the fabric.
·poor quality thread, unevenly wound or knotted.
Faulty stitching
·remnants of thread between the tension discs
·remnants of thread under the bobbin case spring
·incorrect threading. Check upper and lower threads
·use the correct spool disc
Machine fails to run or runs slowly
·plug not fully inserted
·power switch in off (0) position
·machine has been standing in a cold room
·bobbin winder engaged
Machine sews in reverse
·reverse sewing function is activated
Defective sewing-light
·Please note that it is forbidden to change the
new CFL-sewing light by a unauthorized person.
For Models with this new CFL-sewing light,
the light can ONLY be replaced by an authorized
Bernina Dealer.
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76
Glossary of terms
check ·to preview the contents of a memory bank
clr (clear) ·remove or restore settings, back to basic settings
cursor ·on-screen positioning marker (vertical line)
·used in memory for marking deletions, insertions, etc.
customized ·customer-oriented, individualized, personalized
Delete ·Delete/clear the previous command
edit ·alter, modify
esc (escape) ·close screen/program, return to previous or start screen
help ·an integrated program providing brief information and help concerning functions and
specific stitches
memory ·sewing machine program to store stitches and combinations of stitches, letters and
numbers for recall at any time
menu ·summary of program contents, e.g. stitches, functions from which selections can be
made
ok ·to confirm a task or selection before continuing
outline ·outline designs = sideways motion stitches; stitches with outer contours which are
not filled in
pattern ·motif, stitch
PC ·Personal Computer
PC Embroidery Software ·User friendly program designed especially for our customers
·PC program for use in conjunction with our embroidery module to edit, mirror image
and resize existing motifs. You can also use it to create and convert your own designs
into beautiful embroidery.
scroll ·to move the screen up or down to view
Setup ·sequences and settings which can be altered and adapted to suit your personal
preferences
smart ·program which saves the stitch and all settings in use during interruptions. Toggle
between two stitches.
software ·computer programs
store ·save in memory for recall at any time
toolbar ·a term used for on-screen groups, e.g. functions
touch screen ·screen which operates the machine by touch
tutorial ·self-help program for learning about various machine features
update ·load new software onto machine
upgrade ·load new software onto machine
Glossary of terms
bed_artista_180_engl_V3 7.10.2002 16:30 Uhr Seite 76
77Index
A
Accessory box 6
Alphabets/numbers 38–39
· alter size 38
· monogram sizes 38
· programming 39
Alphabet programming functions 29
B
Balance 49–50
Bobbin – winding, inserting 8
Bringing up the lower thread 10
Bulb, replacing 74
Buttonhole program functions 28
· button measurement 28
· direct length entry 28
· manual buttonhole 28
· stitch counter buttonhole 28
Buttonholes 30–38
· auto round and keyhole 31
· auto standard and stretch 30
· auto with direct length entry 32
· buttonhole corrections 34
· long-term memory 34–35
· manual 46 step buttonholes 35–36
· on-screen button measure 32–33
· stitch counter buttonhole 33
· straight stitch buttonholes 37
Buttonholes, applications 17
Buttonholes, opening 37
Button sew-on program 37
C
Carrying case 6
Cleaning, maintenance 74
Contents 3
CPS program 68
Creative Consultant 52–53
· Fabric menu 53
· Techniques menu 53
D
Details of the machine 4, 5
Directional sewing 45–47
· 16 directions 45–46
· 4 directions 46–47
E
eco function 67–68
Editing functions 27–28
· balance 28
· letter size 28
· long stitch 27
· mirror image 27, 28
· monogram size 28
· motor speed 27
· pattern extend 28
· securing end of stitch 27
· sub-division 27
· tension 27
Embroidery cards 69–70
Embroidery module 69
External stitch buttons 21–22
· alphabet button 22
· buttonhole button 21
· decorative stitch button 21
· external connections 22
· practical stitch button 21
· quilt/directional button 22
· Setup 22
External function buttons 22–23
· clr button 22
· eco button 23
· F (Favorite Function) button 23
· Help 22
· mem button 22
· Needle position 23
· Needle stop adjustment 22
· Single pattern 23
· Quick reverse button 23
· Setup button 23
· Smart button 23
· TTC button 23
Eyelet program 38
F
F (Favorite function) button 59–60
Fabric feed, thread, needle 71–73
Feed dogs and fabric feed 73
Feed dogs 11
FHS Free Hand System 7
Foot control 7
Functions, memory 27, 42
· check 27
· delete 27
· edit memory 27
· select memory 27
· store 27
· scroll left 27
· scroll right 27
Functions in Setup 26, 55
Functions, on-screen selection 20
G
General functions 24
· esc 24
· OK 24
· Scroll down 24
· Scroll up 24
Glossary of terms 76
H
Help program 50–51
L
Letters/numbers 38–39
Index
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78 Index
M
Maintenance, cleaning 74
Memory 39–44
· Corrections in memory 42–43
· Deleting memory 44
· Functions 42
· Open memory 40
· Open individual memory 43
· Memory capacity 44
· Programming stitches 40
· Programming stitches by number 41
· Programming with functions 41–42
· Save/leave memory 43
· Sub-division 44
· View memory contents 42
Messages, on-screen 29
N
Needle threader 10
Needle, changing 9
Needle, thread, fabric feed 71–73
Needle position, altering 19
Needle stop 20
O
Outline designs 47–48
P
PC Embroidery Software 70
Power cable 7
Power switch 7
Practical stitches, applications 16–17
Presser feet 15
· Reverse pattern foot No.1C 15
· Overlock foot No.2A 15
· Buttonhole foot No.3C 15
· Auto buttonhole foot No.3C 15
· Zipper foot No.4 15
· Blind stitch foot No.5 15
· Open embroidery foot No.20C 15
· Sideways motion foot No.40C 15
Presser feet, special 15, 68
Presser foot pressure 11
Presser foot, changing 9
Presser foot indicator 20
Programming letters/numbers 39
Q
Quilt stitches/directional sewing 45–47
Quilt stitches 45
S
Safety instructions 1
Screen 18
Selecting on-screen functions 19
Setup 55–67
· Beeper 60–61
· Embroidery hoop adjustment 66
· F (Favorite function) button 59–60
· Functions, programming 59–60
· Functions in Setup 55
· Motor speed 61
· Needle position 60
· Personal program 56–58
· Return to basic settings 63
· Leave Setup 67
· Screen Calibration 65
· Screen Contrast 67
· Service 64
· Sewing light 64
· Start screen 63
· Stitch width, length 60
· Thread tension 62
· Version Information 64–65
Sewing machine needles 71–72
Sewing table 7
Sideways motion stitches 47–48
Smart function 54
Special accessories 68–70
Standard accessories 6
Stitch width/length, altering 19
Stitch plate 11
Stitch selection, on-screen 19–21
Stitch selection by number 20–21
Stitch summary 12–14
· alphabets 13–14
· buttonholes 12
· decorative stitches 12–13
· practical stitches 12
· quilt stitches 13
· 16 directional sewing 13
· 4 directional sewing 13
Supplementary spool pin 9
T
Thread cutter 11
Thread, needle, fabric feed 71–73
Thread tension, altering 27, 51, 62
Threading, upper 10
Touch screen functions 24–26
· Balance 26
· Clear All 26
· Continuous reverse sewing 25
· Double needle limitation 25
· Hemstitch (wing) needle 26
· Half pattern 25
· Horizontal mirror image 25
· Long stitch 24
· Motor speed 25
· Pattern begin 24
· Pattern end 25
· Pattern extension 25
· Scroll 25
· Securing 24
· Stitch selection by number 25
· Tension 26
· Vertical mirror image 25
Touch screen selection 18–22
Troubleshooting 75
Tension/Tutorial/Creative Consultant51–53
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Sewing Manual
artista 180
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1Contents
Straight stitch, Zig-zag
Altered memory
Practical stitch seams
Sewing knits
Zippers
Long stitch function
Basting stitch
Blind hem
Elastic, cord
Bartack program
Buttonholes
Button sew-on program
Eyelets
Mending/darning
Decorative stitches
Cross stitches
Quilt stitches
Decorative stitches combined with functions
Practical and decorative stitches in memory
16 direction stitching
4 direction stitching
Sideways motions stitches (outline motifs)
Balance
Index
2–5
6
7–11
12, 13
14
15
16
17
18, 19
20
21–28
29
30
31–34
35
36
37–39
40
41–43
44, 45
46
47–49
50, 51
52
naeh_artista_180_engl. 7.10.2002 16:31 Uhr Seite 3
2Straight stitch
Straight stitch
Straight stitch
· the machine is ready to sew as soon as it is turned on
· after the welcome screen (3 seconds), the machine
automatically goes to the practical stitch screen with
the pre-selected Straight Stitch highlighted
Alter the stitch length
· the stitch length can be altered while sewing
· turn the external stitch length knob to the right to lengthen
· turn the external stitch length knob to the left to shorten
Change the needle position
· push the external needle position buttons to change the needle position
so stitching can be placed exactly where it is desired
· each push of the button moves the needle one position in the direction
of the symbol
<five positions to the left
>five positions to the right
· total of 11 positions, including center
· excellent for edgestitching, topstitching, and making tucks
Securing with Quick Reverse
· press the quick reverse button and the machine sews in reverse
· release the button and the machine sews forward
TIPS
Adjust the stitch length to suit the fabric:
· e.g. use a longer stitch length (approximately 3mm4mm) with
denim, shorter length(2mm2.5mm) with batiste
Adjust the stitch length to suit the thread:
· e.g. use a longer stitch length (approximately 3mm5mm) when
sewing with cordonnet thread for top stitching
Activate needle stop down
· prevents the fabric slipping when you stop to adjust it
Straight Stitch No. 1
size and type suitable for the fabric selected
cotton or polyester
up (sewing position)
Reverse pattern foot No. 1C
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
ABC
Screen
· suggests using reverse pattern presser foot #1
· basic settings (length and width) for Straight Stitch
are preset at 2.25mm (length) and 0mm (width)
· basic settings as well as altered settings are always
visible on the screen
Astraight stitch with length of
2.25mm preset length
B straight stitch with altered
stitch length
Cstraight stitch with altered
needle positions
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Straight stitch 3
Securing stitch
Securing program
· for all fabrics
· secures beginning and end of seam
· reverse stitching is exactly on top of the seam,
preventing puckers
Stitch selection
· touch stitch No. 5
· quick reverse symbol will appear on-screen as a
reminder to use it when ending the seam
Screen
· suggests using reverse pattern presser foot No. 1
· basic settings (length and width) for Straight Stitch
are preset at 2.5mm (length) and 0mm (width)
Beginning the seam
· machine secures the seam automatically (4 stitches
forward, 4 stitches reverse)
· machine continues straight stitching
Ending the seam
· when coming to the end of the seam, press and release
the quick reverse button above the needle
· machine will secure the seam automatically (4 stitches
forward, 4 stitches reverse)
· machine stops automatically when securing is complete
TIP
Seaming
· quick and easy securing at beginning and
end of seam
Securing stitch No. 5
size and type suitable for the fabric selected
cotton or polyester
up (sewing position)
Reverse pattern foot No. 1C
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
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4Straight stitch
Narrow edge stitching
Needle position
· left for outer edge
· right for inner edge
Presser foot
· Blindstitch foot No. 5
Outer edge
· place finished or folded edge of fabric against the
guide of the foot
· select needle position at desired distance from the edge
Hem edges
· place edge of fold (inside upper edge of hem) against
the guide on the foot
· select a needle position that places the stitching along
the upper edge of the folded hem
Foot No. 5 – use any left or far right needle position
Foot No. 10 – use any left or right needle position
Wide edge stitching
Needle position
· any needle position can be used for this stitching
· different needle positions will place the stitching at
various distances from the edge of the fabric
Presser foot
· reverse pattern foot No. 1C
Guiding the fabric
Presser foot as a guide:
· align the edge of the presser foot with the finished or
folded edge of the fabric
Stitch plate as a guide:
· guide the folded edge along the markings on the
stitch plate for stitching 1cm–3cm from the edge
Quilting/Seam guide as a guide:
· insert the quilting/seam guide bar into the hole on the
back of the presser foot shank
· adjust as desired, measuring from the needle
· tighten the screw
· guide the finished or folded edge of the fabric along
the quilting/seam guide
· to sew parallel lines, guide the quilting/seam guide bar
along a previously sewn line of stitches
TIP
Edge stitching with quilting/seam guide
· eliminates tedious marking when sewing
parallel lines or grids
Edge stitching
Straight Stitch No. 1
size and type suitable for the fabric selected
cotton, polyester, or cordonnet (topstitching)
up (sewing position)
Reverse pattern foot No. 1C or Blindstitch Foot No. 5 or
Edgestitch Foot No.10/10C (optional accessory)
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
1
5
5
1
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Zig-zag 5
Zig-zag applications
· for all fabric types
· for finishing raw edges
· for decorative work
Stitch selection
· touch stitch 2
Screen
· suggests using reverse pattern presser foot No.1C
· basic settings (length and width) for Zigzag Stitch
are preset at 1.5mm (length) and 3.5mm (width)
· basic settings as well as altered settings are always
visible on the screen
Altering the stitch width
· the stitch width can be altered while sewing
· turn the external stitch width knob to the right to
make the stitch wider
· turn the external stitch width knob to the left to
make the stitch more narrow
· move the knob in a smooth, gentle rotation for a
smooth tapering of the stitch
Alter the stitch length
· the stitch length can be altered while sewing
· turn the external stitch length knob to the right to lengthen
· turn the external stitch length knob to the left to shorten
· move the knob in a smooth, gentle rotation for a smooth
transition of the stitch length
Satin stitch
· short stitch length setting indicated by parallel lines
· filled-in stitch used for applique, cutwork, embroidery, and
other decorative applications
Oversewing edges
· good edge finish for most types of fabric
· guide edge of fabric into the center of the presser foot
· needle goes into fabric on one side and over the edge into
the air on the other
· do not select too wide a width or too long a stitch –
the edge should lie flat and not roll
TIPS
Oversewing edges with Zig-zag
· if edges roll, use the Vari-overlock stitch and foot No.2A
Embroidery with satin stitch
· experiment with adjusting the stitch width for new
decorative effects
Zig-zag stitch
Zig-zag No. 2
size and type suitable for the fabric selected
cotton or polyester
up (sewing position)
Reverse pattern foot No. 1C
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
B A C
Azigzag stitch with altered
stitch length
B zigzag stitch with altered
stitch width
Cfabric edges finished with
zigzag stitch
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6
Altered Memory
· for all stitches and fabrics
· altered stitch length and width settings are saved
automatically
· sew a stitch (e.g. zig-zag stitch)
· select and sew a second stitch (e.g. straight stitch)
· when the first stitch (zig-zag), is recalled, all altered
settings remain
· particularly useful when alternating between two
applications, such as seaming and edge finishing
· the altered memory can hold as many stitches as
needed
Altering the basic settings
· select zig-zag stitch No. 2
· alter stitch width to 9mm
· alter stitch length to 1mm
· sew a line of the altered zigzag stitch
· select running stitch No. 4
· alter stitch width to 9mm
· alter stitch length to 1mm
· sew a line of the altered running stitch
Altered settings remain active
· select zig-zag stitch No. 2
· altered settings remain active
· sew a line of the altered zigzag stitch
· select running stitch No. 4
· altered settings remain active
· sew a line of the altered running stitch
Return to basic settings
· Method 1: press the external clr button
· Method 2: alter the stitch width and length manually
· Method 3: turn machine off – altered settings will not be
saved
TIPS
Altering stitch width and length
· the width and length of all stitches can be adjusted
to suit the fabric and type of sewing. Very convenient
when sewing a project which may require using the
same stitches repeatedly.
Changing Stitches
· alternating between sewing seams and finishing edges
is easy with altered settings for many stitches, which
remain altered once set
Altered Memory
Any selected stitch
size and type suitable for the fabric selected
cotton or polyester
up (sewing position)
Reverse pattern foot No. 1C
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
Personal (altered) Memory
A B
Aaltered zigzag stitch changed to
altered running stitch
Bchanged back to altered zigzag
stitch and then changed again
to altered running stitch
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7Practical stitch seams
Open seams
Seams which are pressed open
· seam allowance width as wide as desired
· seam lies flat
· seam does not stretch
Suggested stitches:
· straight, narrow zigzag, super stretch, and triple zigzag
Application:
· primarily for woven fabrics
· works for most types of sewing projects, including
clothing, home accessories, and crafts
Closed seam (overlock seams)
Seams which cannot be pressed open
· sewn and finished in one operation
· narrow seam allowances
Suggested stitches:
· vari-overlock, double overlock, and jersey
Application:
· primarily for knits and jerseys
· excellent for knit clothing, lingerie, and bed linens
Flat joining seams
Seams where the edges are overlapped and then sewn
· stitching is on the seam allowances
Suggested stitch:
· stretch overlock
Application:
· particularly good for terry cloth
· also good for beachwear, leisure wear, and lingerie
Zig-zag stitch No. 2
approximately 1mm
approximately 0.5mm
universal, ballpoint, or stretch as needed
cotton or polyester
up (sewing position)
Reverse pattern foot No. 1C
Open seam applications
· stitch has more “give” than a straight stitch
· use for knits, outer wear, children’s knit clothes
· seam lies flat and is not bulky
· allows a garment to be let out
Practical stitch seams
TIP
Prevent stretching
· to prevent the stretching of the seam while being sewn,
reduce the presser foot pressure to suit the fabric
Zig-zag seam
Stitch:
Stitch width:
Stitch length:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
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8
Triple Straight Stitch No. 6
80–90 universal or jeans
polyester
up (sewing position)
Reverse pattern foot No. 1C
Open seam
· durable seam for firm and densely woven fabrics such
as denim and corduroy
· reinforced seam for garment areas subject to hard wear
Super stretch No. 11 or Stretch No. 18
universal, ballpoint, or stretch as needed
cotton or polyester
up (sewing position)
Reverse pattern foot No. 1C
Open seam
· stretch seam for knit fabrics
· ideal for sports and leisure wear
· seam lies flat and is not bulky
TIPS
Knits and jersey
· use a new needle to prevent damaging the fabric fibers
Sewing stretch fabrics
· if necessary use a stretch ball point needle
(130/705H-S); needle point slides between the fibers
Prevent stretching
· to prevent the stretching of the seam while being sewn,
reduce the presser foot pressure to suit the fabric
Triple Straight Stitch seam
TIP
For heavy layers or very densely woven fabrics
A Jeans needle and Jeans Foot No. 8 will help when
stitching very heavy fabrics, such as denim or canvas
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
Stretch/Super stretch seam
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
Practical stitch seams
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9Practical stitch seams
TIPS
Knits and jersey
· use a new needle to prevent damaging the fabric fibers
Sewing stretch fabrics
· if necessary use a stretch needle (130/705H-S); the
point slides easily between the fibers
TIPS
Knits and jersey
· use a new needle to prevent damaging the fabric fibers
Sewing stretch fabrics
· if necessary use a stretch ball point needle (130/705H-S);
the point slides easily between the fibers
Vari-overlock seam
Vari-overlock No. 3
size and type suitable for the fabric selected
cotton or polyester
up (sewing position)
Overlock foot No. 2A
Closed seam
· stretchy seam in fine, soft knits such as silk jersey and
interlock
Sewing
· guide the raw edge along the pin on the overlock foot
· the stitch will form over the pin and over the edge of
the fabric
Double Overlock No.10 or Jersey Overlock No.20
size and type suitable for the fabric selected
cotton or polyester
up (sewing position)
Overlock foot No. 2A
Closed seam
· overlock seam in loose knits and cross seams in knits
and jerseys
Sewing
· guide the raw edge along the pin on the overlock foot
· the stitch will form over the pin and over the edge of
the fabric
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
Double overlock seam/Jersey overlock seam
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
2A
2A
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10
Stretch Overlock No. 13 or Reinforced Overlock No. 19
universal, ballpoint, or stretch as needed
cotton or polyester
up (sewing position)
Reverse pattern foot No. 1C
Closed seam
· overlock seam in coarse or loose knits
Sewing
· sew stretch overlock along the fabric edge
· the stitch should go over the edge of the fabric on the
right swing of the needle
Stretch Overlock No. 13
universal, ballpoint, or stretch as needed
cotton or polyester
up (sewing position)
Reverse pattern foot No. 1C
Flat joining seam
· fabric edges are overlapped and the stitch is placed on
the seam allowance
· produces a very flat, durable seam
· ideal for fluffy, thick materials such as terry cloth, felt
and leather
Sewing
· sew stretch overlock along the fabric edge
· the stitch should go over the edge of the top layer of
fabric on the right swing of the needle
TIPS
Fabric and thread
· use a matching thread colour, for less visibility in fluffy
fabrics
Thick seam
· particularly suitable for fabrics in which a normal
straight stitch seam would stretch open
TIP
Prevent stretching
· to prevent the stretching of the seam while being sewn,
reduce the presser foot pressure to suit the fabric
Stretch overlock seam/Reinforced overlock seam
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
Flat joining seam
Practical stitch seams
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11Practical stitch hems
Preparation
· fold and press hem; baste if desired
Sewing
· sew hem at desired depth (right side)
· trim excess fabric (wrong side)
Jersey stitch No. 14
universal, ballpoint, or stretch as needed
cotton or polyester
up (sewing position)
Reverse pattern foot No. 1C
Visible stretch hem
· for all types of cotton, wool, synthetic and mixed fiber
jerseys
Triple Zig-zag No. 7
2.5mm – 9mm depending on fabric
basic setting
universal or jeans
cotton or polyester
up (sewing position)
Reverse pattern foot No. 1C
Strong visible seam
· for firm, densely woven fabrics, particularly good for
denim and canvas
TIPS
Knits and jersey
· use a new needle to prevent damaging the loops of
the knit fabric
Sewing stretch fabrics
· if necessary, use a stretch needle (130/705H-S); the
point slides easily between the fibers
TIPS
Hems on fabrics which may ravel
· finish the raw edge of the hem;do not trim them after sewing
Sewing firm, hard fabrics
· use a jeans needle for better penetration
Hems with practical stitches
Visible hem with Jersey stitch
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
Stitch:
Stitch width:
Stitch length:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
Visible hem with Triple Zig-zag
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12
Start with a new needle
· blunt needles can damage knits
Use a stretch needle (130/705 H-S) if necessary
· the needle point slides easily between the fibers
Use a fine sewing thread
· coarse threads can damage knits and cause holes when
the garment is washed
When basting, use a darning thread
· very lightweight (80 weight) darning thread is easier to
remove once the seam is complete
Sew a test, when necessary
· the elasticity of knit fabrics varies greatly
· adjust basic settings to suit the fabric, the seam
should be as stretchy as the fabric
· for greater elasticity:
· use a shorter stitch length
· use a wider stitch width
(only one of these adjustments may be necessary)
Presser foot pressure
· soft, loose knits can wave when sewn:
reduce the pressure until the seam lies flat the machine
must still feed the fabric properly
Sewing knits
TIPS
Needle stop down
· needle stays in fabric when pivoting around curves (neck edges and
armholes)
Presser foot pressure
· reduce pressure if hem stretches
Honeycomb stitch No. 8
universal, ballpoint, or stretch as needed
cotton or polyester
up (sewing position)
Reverse pattern foot No. 1C
Honeycomb stitch edges
· for all cotton, wool, synthetic and mixed fiber knits
Preparation
· turn the raw edge under by 1 cm (3/8”); press and
baste if desired
Sewing
· sew from the right side
· trim excess fabric from the wrong side
Balance/corrections
· Stitch is too open – make the stitch shorter by touching the
“up” (↑) balance arrow several times
· Stitch is overlapping – make the stitch longer by touching
the “down” (↓) balance arrow several times
Honeycomb stitch edges
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
Important tips for sewing knit fabrics
Sewing knits
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13Sewing knits
TIP
Needle stop down
· needle stays in fabric when you stop to adjust the rib-
bing on curves (neck edge, armholes)
Vari-overlock No. 3
size and type suitable for the fabric selected
cotton or polyester
up (sewing position)
Overlock foot No. 2A
Ribbing with overlock seam
· for all fine cotton, synthetic and mixed fiber knits
Preparation
· fold ribbing in half
· pin and baste to opening, front edge to outside
Sewing
· sew Vari-overlock over the raw edge
· guide the raw edge along the pin of the foot
· the stitch will form over the pin and over the edge of
the fabric
Ribbing with overlock seam
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
2A
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14
Straight stitch No. 1
size and type suitable for the type of fabric selected
cotton or polyester
up (sewing position)
Zipper foot No. 4
far right or far left
Preparation:
· baste or pin zipper in place
· fabric edges should meet over the center of the zipper
Sewing
· sew both sides of zipper from bottom to top
· needle position should be fully to the right on one side
and and fully to the left on the other
· edge of presser foot runs next to zipper teeth
· position the foot so the needle stitches along the edge
of the zipper teeth
Zippers
TIPS
To sew around the zipper pull
· close the zipper and sew up to about 5 cm (2”) away
from the pull
· stop with the needle down in the fabric, raise the
presser foot. Open the zipper, pulling the tab below the
needle; lower the foot and continue to sew
Starting to sew
· hold the thread firmly when starting to sew
· pull the fabric gently behind the needle for a few
stitches
Dense fabric
· for even stitch formation, use a 90 or 100 needle
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
Needle position:
Zippers
4
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15Long stitch
Straight stitch No. 1 or Triple Straight Stitch No. 6
size and type suitable for the fabric selected
cotton or polyester
3.5mm – 5mm
up (sewing position)
Reverse pattern foot No. 1C
Long stitch
Long stitch
· for all work where a longer stitch is desired
· for topstitching
Long stitch function
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Stitch length:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
Function:
TIPS
Decorative top stitching
· use cordonnet (topstitching) thread and a 100–110
needle with the straight stitch
Basting
· long stitch can also be used to baste fine fabrics
This function works with the straight stitch to produce a
longer than usual stitch.
The machine sews every second stitch when the Long
stitch function is activated. The longest stitch possible is
10 mm when the stitch length is set at 5mm.
For decorative top stitching, the Long stitch function can
be combined with Triple Straight stitch.
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16
Basting stitch
TIPS
Securing a basted seam
· to secure basting stitches, sew a few normal length
straight stitches at the beginning and end of the seam
Basting
· use a fine darning thread; it is easier to remove after
the seam has been sewn
Basting stitch No. 21
size and type suitable for the fabric selected
cotton or polyester
3.5mm – 5mm
up (sewing position)
Reverse pattern foot No. 1C
Basting stitch
· for all work where a very long stitch is desired
· quick and easy basting of seams, hems, etc.
· easy to remove
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Stitch length:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
This feature is a stitch rather than a function (such as the
long stitch). When this stitch (No. 21) is selected, the
machine stitches a straight stitch, sewing every fourth
one. The longest stitch possible is 20 mm when the stitch
length is set at 5mm.
Basting stitch
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17Blind hem
TIP
Fine stitch width adjustment
· guide the raw edge along the guide on the foot to keep
the stitch depth even
Blindstitch No. 9
size and type suitable for the fabric selected
cotton, polyester, or silk
up (sewing position)
Blindstitch foot No. 5
Blind hem
· for invisible hems in medium to heavy cotton, wool and
mixed fiber fabrics
Preparation
· finish the raw edges as desired
· fold the hem and baste or pin in place
· fold the garment back over the right side of the fabric
to expose the finished lower edge
· place the work under the presser foot (see drawing)
with the guide positioned against the folded back
fabric
Sewing
· the needle should just pierce the edge of the fold
· adjust the stitch width to suit the fabric
· after sewing about 10 cm (4”), check both sides of
fabric and adjust the stitch width if necessary
Blind hem
5
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
right side of fabric
wrong side of fabric
wrong side of fabric
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18
Universal stitch No. 15
depends on width of elastic
type and size to suit the fabric selected
cotton or polyester
up (sewing position)
Reverse pattern foot No. 1C
or Embroidery foot No. 6 (optional accessory)
Sewing on elastic
· for gathering long lengths of fabric, frills and flounces
in fine fabrics
· works well for gathered sleeve edges and neck
openings
Preparation
· cut elastic to length required
Sewing
· oversew the elastic, adjusting the stitch width to be
slightly wider than the elastic
· needle must not pierce the elastic
· after sewing,adjust the gathers evenly
Sewing on narrow elastic with Universal stitch
TIPS
Secure the beginning and end of elastic
· sew a few straight stitches backward and forward to secure the elastic
Quick hem finish
· for children’s or doll clothing
· sew sleeve edges with elastic before sewing seams
TIPS
Securing beginning and end
· sew a few stitches with the feed-dog lowered
Presser foot pressure
· increase the foot pressure, if necessary, for better
feeding of the fabric and cord
Gathering stitch No. 12
size and type to suit the fabric selected
cotton or polyester
up (sewing position)
Buttonhole foot No. 3C
Shirring elastic/cord
· for gathering long lengths of fabric
Preparation
· cut shirring elastic or cord double the length of the edge
· fold in half lengthways
· hook over the center toe on the buttonhole foot
· take both ends of the cord under the foot to the back
Sewing
· sew a few stitches
· lift the elastic or cord at the front and pull towards you
· leave ends behind the presser foot
· oversew cord without stitching into it
· after sewing, pull the cord to gather the fabric
· stretch elastic while sewing; the more it is stretched, the
tighter the gathers
Sewing on shirring elastic/cord with Gathering stitch
Stitch:
Stitch width:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
Elastic, cord
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19Elastic, cord
TIP
Preventing elastic from stretching too much
· avoid over-stretching the elastic; adjust the presser
foot pressure to suit the fabric.
Running stitch No. 4 or Sewn-out Zig-zag No. 16 or
Lycra stitch No. 17
adjust to suit elastic
size and type to suit the fabric selected
cotton or polyester
up (sewing position)
Reverse pattern foot No. 1C
Wide elastic
· for edges on sportswear and lingerie
Preparation
· cut elastic to length required
· divide fabric edge and elastic into 4 equal sections
and mark
· pin elastic to raw edge, matching up markings
Sewing
· stretch the elastic to fit the raw edge while sewing
· trim excess fabric close to the stitching
Sewing on wide elastic
Stitch:
Stitch length:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
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20 Bar tack program
Bartack program No. 24 or Buttonhole bartack No. 25
size and type to suit the fabric selected
cotton, polyester, or rayon
up (sewing position)
Reverse pattern foot No. 1C
Bartack program
· for reinforcing seams subject to heavy wear such as
those on pockets, jackets, jeans and overalls
· use for attaching ribbons to a quilt for tying
Buttonhole bartack
· for reinforcing buttonhole bartacks
Sewing
· the machine starts top left with the bartack program
· the machine stops automatically at the end of the
program
Bartack program
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
TIP
Decorative bar tacks
· increase the stitch length and sew the bar tack program
with decorative thread as a decorative element;
combine with other stitches
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21Buttonholes
Thread tension
· the tension is set automatically when a buttonhole
is selected
· the upper tension is slightly looser than normal
· this gives a slightly rounded appearance to the beads,
making the buttonhole more attractive
Manual buttonholes
· stitched using Buttonhole foot 3C
· the buttonhole length of manually stitched buttonholes
must be marked on the fabric in the appropriate
position
Automatic buttonholes
· stitched using Automatic buttonhole foot 3C
· mark the length of the first buttonhole
· after sewing the first buttonhole, the length for all
subsequent buttonholes is automatically programmed
· mark the starting point of all subsequent buttonholes
· Buttonhole length = buttonhole opening in mm
Test sewing
· always sew a test on the fabric(s) you will use with the
same interlining, interfacing, and stabilizers
· select the same buttonhole type
· sew the buttonhole in the same direction on the
fabric (with or against the grain)
Corrections
To adjust the bead width:
· alter the stitch width
Altering the stitch length:
· any alterations to the stitch length affect both beads
(making them more or less dense)
· always stitch a new sample to reprogram the buttonhole after
any changes are made to the stitch length
Balance for automatic/manual buttonholes
· any balance alterations affect both beads
Balance for stitch counter buttonholes
· any balance alterations affect the first (left) bead:
Bead too dense – if the first bead looks like
A, use the “down” arrow to correct it
Bead not dense enough – if the first bead looks like B,
use the “up” arrow to correct it
· always stitch a new sample to reprogram the buttonhole after
any changes are made to the balance
Clear balance
· press the external clr button
Important information on buttonholes
AB
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22
Corded Buttonhole
· gimp cord reinforces buttonholes and enhances their
appearance
· the loop of the cord should be at the end of the
buttonhole most subject to wear or where the button is
sewn on
· position the work accordingly
· gimp cord is particularly recommended for standard
and stretch buttonholes
Suitable cords:
· Perle yarn No. 8
· strong hand sewing thread
· fine crochet yarn
· gimp cord
Hooking the cord onto presser foot No. 3C
· insert the needle at the beginning of the buttonhole
· raise the presser foot
· hook the cord over the center toe of the foot
· place both ends of the cord in the grooves on the sole
of the foot and pull them to the back
· lower the presser foot
Sewing
· sew the buttonhole in the usual manner
· do not hold the cord tightly
· the buttonhole will form over the cord, covering it
Securing the cord
· pull the cord through the buttonhole until the loop
disappears into the end of it
· pull the ends of the cord through to back of the fabric
· knot or secure with stitches
Buttonholes
3
3
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23Buttonholes
Hooking the cord in the automatic buttonhole foot No. 3A
· insert the needle at the beginning of the buttonhole
· raise the presser foot
· guide the cord under the foot to the right
· hook the cord over the pin at the back of the foot
· bring the cords to the front of the foot
· pull each end into one of the notches at the front of
the foot
Sewing
· sew the buttonhole in the usual manner
· do not hold the cord
· the buttonhole will form over the cord, covering it
Securing the cord
· pull the cord through the buttonhole until the loop
disappears into the end of it
· pull the ends of the cord through to back of the fabric
· knot or secure with stitches
Cutting buttonholes open
· using the seam ripper, cut from the ends towards
the middle
Buttonhole cutter and block (special accessory)
· place the fabric on a piece of wood
· place the cutter in the center of the buttonhole
· press the handle of the cutter to open the
buttonhole
3A
3A
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24
Straight stitch buttonholes No. 59
size and type suitable for the fabric selected
cotton or polyester
up (sewing position)
Buttonhole foot No. 3C or Automatic Buttonhole Foot No. 3A
Automatic program with Automatic buttonhole foot No. 3A
· if using Automatic buttonhole foot No. 3A, the sensor on
the foot will automatically register the length of the
buttonhole so it can be duplicated
Sewing the automatic buttonhole program
· sew the first line of straight stitches forward until the
desired length is reached
· press and release the quick reverse button
· auto appears = length is programmed
· machine completes the buttonhole program automatically
· all subsequent buttonholes will be stitched to the same
length (without pressing the quick reverse button)
· the distance between the stitched lines can be adjusted
with the stitch width
Stitch counter program with buttonhole foot No. 3C
· select function presser foot 3C for stitch counter
buttonholes
· Buttonhole foot no. 3C will register the number of stitches
in the buttonhole
Sewing the stitch counter buttonhole program
· sew the first bead, stop stitching at the desired length
· press and release the quick reverse button
· continue sewing; the machine will stitch the end of the
buttonhole and then the second bead in reverse
· stop stitching when the needle reaches the first stitch
· press and release the quick reverse button
· machine sews the horizontal bar and securing stitches
· machine stops automatically
· auto appears on the screen
· each subsequent stitched buttonhole will be sewn to the
same length as the programmed buttonhole
Straight stitch buttonholes
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
3A
Straight stitch buttonholes are useful as a foundation for
satin stitched buttonholes on soft and loosely woven
fabrics that fray easily. The buttonhole beads and bartacks
of the second (satin stitched) buttonhole will cover the
straight stitching.
They are also good for stitching bound buttonholes and
reinforcing buttonhole openings on leather, vinyl, and felt.
3
Buttonholes
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25Buttonholes
Buttonhole (all types)
size and type suitable for the fabric selected
cotton or polyester
up (sewing position)
Automatic buttonhole foot No. 3A
Automatic buttonhole
· the lens on automatic buttonhole foot No. 3A
automatically registers the length of the buttonhole for
exact duplication
· buttonholes from 4–29 mm can be sewn
Sew the first bead
· the stitching sequence is displayed on the screen (to
the right of the presser foot symbol)
· sew the first bead forward, stopping at the desired
length
Program the buttonhole
· press and release the quick reverse button
· auto appears on the screen to indicate that the
buttonhole length is programmed
· continue sewing; the machine completes the
buttonhole and stops automatically
Auto buttonhole
· machine stops in position to begin the next buttonhole
· reposition the fabric and sew; all subsequent
buttonholes will be sewn automatically to the same
length (without pressing the quick reverse button)
Important:
· if you make a mistake, press the Pattern Begin function
· the machine reverts to the beginning of the buttonhole
Automatic buttonholes (all types)
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
Both beads are sewn in the same direction.
Buttonhole lenght = buttonhole opening in mm
Stretch buttonholes are particularly effective on all knit
fabrics because the double overlock stitch used for the
beads stretch with the fabric while keeping its shape.
Note: The automatic buttonhole foot 3A must lie
perfectly flat on the fabric. If the foot lies on a seam,
the length cannot be measured accurately.
3A
TIPS
Exact duplicates
· the auto function ensures
that each buttonhole will
be exactly the same
length as the previous
one
Marking
· mark only the beginning
of the buttonholes – a
real time saver!
Sewing speed
· sew at moderate speed
for best results
· sew all buttonholes at
the same speed for a
consistent bead density
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26
Round buttonholes 54–55 and keyhole buttonholes 56–58
size and type suitable for the fabric selected
cotton or polyester
up (sewing position)
Automatic buttonhole foot No. 3A
Automatic buttonhole
· the lens on automatic buttonhole foot No. 3A
automatically registers the length of the buttonhole for
exact duplication
· buttonholes from 4–29 mm can be sewn
Sew the buttonhole
· the stitching sequence is displayed on the screen (to
the right of the presser foot symbol)
· sew straight stitches forward, stopping at the desired
length
Program the buttonhole
· press and release the quick reverse button
· auto appears on the screen to indicate that the
buttonhole length is programmed
· continue sewing; the machine completes the
buttonhole and stops automatically
Auto buttonhole
· machine stops in position to begin the next buttonhole
· reposition the fabric and sew; all subsequent
buttonholes will be sewn automatically to the same
length (without pressing the quick reverse button)
Important:
· if you make a mistake, press the Pattern Begin function
· the machine reverts to the beginning of the buttonhole
Automatic round and keyhole buttonholes
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
Both beads are sewn in the same direction.
Buttonhole lenght = buttonhole opening in mm
TIPS
Exact duplicates
· the auto function ensures that each buttonhole will be exactly the same length
as the previous one
Marking
· mark only the beginning of the buttonholes – a real time saver!
Double sewn keyhole buttonholes
· keyhole buttonholes can be sewn twice on thick fabrics
· after sewing the first buttonhole, do not move the work
· simply tap the foot control once to begin sewing again
Buttonholes
3A
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27
Buttonholes (all types)
size and type suitable for the fabric selected
cotton or polyester
up (sewing position)
Buttonhole foot No. 3C
Stitch counter buttonholes
· Select the stitch counter buttonhole function
Length of first bead
· sew the first bead, stopping at the desired length
· press and release the quick reverse button
Bartack, second bead
· bottom bartack and second bead are sewn in reverse
· stop machine at the first stitch
· press and release the quick reverse button
Bartack, securing stitches
· machine sews the top bartack and securing stitches
· machine stops automatically
· auto appears on the screen
· the buttonhole is programmed and saved
· each subsequent buttonhole will be sewn identically
Corrections
· reprogram the buttonhole if any alterations to the
stitch width, length, or balance have been made
Programmed buttonhole on a different fabric
· different fabrics and interfacings can affect the look of
a stitch counter buttonhole
· if you are using a new material, program the
buttonhole again
Stitch counter buttonholes for all buttonhole types
(can not be saved in memory)
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
The first (left) bead is sewn forwards, the second (right)
bead is sewn in reverse.
TIPS
More buttonholes with presser foot No. 3C
· ideal for buttonholes which are difficult to sew with the larger foot of Automatic
buttonhole foot No.3A
Beautiful buttonholes
· keep the speed consistent for beads of equal density
· sew at a moderate speed for best results
Marking
· mark only the beginning of the buttonholes – a real time saver!
Buttonholes
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28 Buttonholes
any buttonhole
size and type suitable for the fabric selected
cotton or polyester
up (sewing position)
Buttonhole foot No. 3C
Open the program
· select the type of buttonhole desired (stitches 51–59)
· select the manual buttonhole function from the toolbar
Step symbols
· the step sequence is shown on the screen:
· standard buttonhole has 6 steps
· round buttonhole has 4 steps
· keyhole buttonhole has 4 steps
· the arrow in the circle is on “0” when the buttonhole
is first selected
Sewing a 4 or 6 step buttonhole
· touch 1 on the screen and sew the first bead
· stop the machine at the desired length
· touch 2, sew
· continue in this manner until the buttonhole is
complete
Manual 4/6-step buttonholes (all types)
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
Sewing buttonholes manually is ideal if you only need to
sew one; also for repairing existing buttonholes.
The number of steps depends on the type of buttonhole.
A manually sewn buttonhole cannot be saved.
TIP
Repairing buttonholes
· use the steps which are necessary to repair the worn
sections, omitting or bypassing the unneeded ones
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29Button sewing-on program
Button sew-on program No. 60
depends on the distance between the holes
size and type suitable for the fabric selected
cotton or polyester
down (darning position)
Button sew-on foot No. 18 (optional accessory)
Button sew-on program
· sews buttons with 2 and 4 holes
· the shank (thread length between button and fabric)
can be made shorter or longer as required
· buttons being sewn on for decorative purposes only
can be stitched without forming a thread shank
2-hole button
· select Button Sew-on program
· check distances between holes with the handwheel
· adjust stitch width if necessary
· hold the threads when starting to sew
· sew; machine stops automatically when program is
completed
· machine is automatically ready for the next button
Beginning and ending threads
· the threads are secured and can be trimmed
For secure results:
· cut the upper thread close to the button
· pull both bobbin threads until the upper thread is
visible on the wrong side
· trim bobbin thread (knot if desired)
4-hole button
· sew the front holes
· carefully move the button forward
· sew the back holes
Button sewing-on program
Stitch:
Stitch width:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
18
18
TIPS
Sewing on buttons by machine
· a real time saver, especially when several of the same
type buttons must be sewn on, e.g. shirts, blouses, etc.
Shortening zippers
· a zipper which is too long can be secured simply and
quickly using the button sew-on program
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30
TIPS
Eyelets
· ideal for eyes on soft toys, dolls and puppets
Decorative eyelets
· use decorative thread to introduce an attractive
element when combined with other embroidery or
decorative stitches
Eyelets
Zigzag Eyelets
Zig-zag Eyelet No. 61
size and type suitable for the fabric selected
cotton, polyester, or rayon
up (sewing position)
Reverse pattern foot No. 1C
Zig-zag Eyelet
· ideal opening for cords and narrow ribbons
· attractive decorative elements for clothing, crafts, etc.
·cannot be programmed into memory
Sewing eyelets
· select eyelet stitch No. 61
· position fabric under the presser foot and sew
· machine stops automatically when finished
· machine is automatically ready for the next eyelet
Punching eyelets
· use an awl or punch to cut open the eyelet
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
Straight Stitch Eyelets
Straight Stitch Eyelets No. 62
size and type suitable for the fabric selected
cotton, polyester, or rayon
up (sewing position)
Reverse pattern foot No. 1C
Straight Stitch Eyelet
· ideal opening for cords and narrow ribbons
· attractive decorative elements for clothing, crafts, etc.
·cannot be programmed into memory
Sewing eyelets
· select eyelet stitch No. 62
· position fabric under the presser foot and sew
· machine stops automatically when finished
· machine is automatically ready for the next eyelet
Punching eyelets
· use an awl or punch to cut open the eyelet
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
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31Darning, mending
Elastic Edges
TIP
Prevent fabrics stretching
· To prevent the fabric from stretching as it is sewn,
reduce the presser foot pressure to suit the fabric
Zig-zag stitch No. 2
approximately 5mm
1mm – 1.5mm
size and type suitable for the fabric selected
cotton or polyester
up (sewing position)
Reverse pattern foot No. 1C
Elastic edges
· use on knit garments to re-form out-of-shape edges
Sewing
· guide double length of shirring elastic along the edge
of the fabric, stretching the elastic slightly
· oversew the elastic with a zig-zag stitch
· do not sew through the elastic, only over it
· adjust elastic after sewing is complete to regain the
correct shape and size
Stitch:
Stitch width:
Stitch length:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
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32 Darning, mending
Jersey stitch No. 14
size and type suitable for the fabric selected
lightweight darning thread
up (sewing position)
Reverse pattern foot No. 1C
Covering worn or damaged areas
· particularly suitable for stretchy fabrics, lingerie
Preparation
· do not cut damaged area
· round off the edges of the patch to retain flexibility
· pin and baste to right side
Sewing
· place patch over worn area
· sew over edge
· sew a second row inside the first if desired)
· cut away damaged area
Honeycomb stitch No. 8 or Running stitch No. 4
size and type suitable for the fabric selected
lightweight darning thread
up (sewing position)
Reverse pattern foot No. 1C
Reinforcing edges
· good for work clothes, table linen, towels, etc.
· use a cord to match the color of the fabric
Suitable cords
· perle yarn
· fine crochet yarn
· strong hand-sewing thread
· gimp
Sewing
· oversew edges with Honeycomb or Running stitch
· oversew a cord along the edge for added reinforcement
· if necessary, sew a second row somewhat in from the
edge
TIPS
Knits
· use a new needle to prevent damage of the fabric loops
Sewing stretch fabrics
· if necessary use a stretch needle (130/705 H-S); point
slides easily between the fibers
Prevent stretching
· to prevent the stretching of the seam while being sewn,
reduce the presser foot pressure to suit the fabric
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
Reinforced edges on woven fabrics
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
Patches on knits and jersey
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33
Darning
Simple Darning Program No. 22 or Reinforced Darning
Program No. 23
size and type suitable for the fabric selected
lightweight darning thread
up (sewing position)
Automatic buttonhole foot No. 3A
Reverse pattern foot No. 1C
Preparation
· stretch fine fabrics into a darning or embroidery ring to
prevent distortion
Simple Darning Program No. 22
· replaces threads along the lengthwise grain in all fabrics
· use Reverse pattern foot No. 1C
· touch the foot 3 on the toolbar across the lower part of
the screen
· sew the first row
· press and release the quick reverse button at the desired
length; this programs the first length
· sew the second row
· press and release the quick reverse button; this programs
the second length
· continue sewing; the machine stops automatically
Corrections
· if the darning becomes distorted, correct with the Balance
function (see page 50–51)
Reinforced Darning Program No, 23
· replaces threads along the lengthwise and crosswise
grains in all fabrics
· use Automatic buttonhole foot No. 3A
· insert the needle in the top left of the worn area
· sew the first vertical row
· press and release the quick reverse button at the desired
length; his programs the length needed
· continue sewing; the machine stops automatically when
finished
Large areas
· reposition the work under the foot to continue covering
the worn area
· begin sewing;the program will repeat (length is saved)
Automatic darning
TIPS
Reinforced darning
· place a piece of gauze under the worn area before
darning
Large areas
· increase the darning area lengthwise and crosswise by
moving the work under the foot
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
Quick darning of holes or
worn areas
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34 Darning
Straight stitch No. 1
size and type suitable for the fabric selected
lightweight darning thread
down (darning position)
Darning foot No. 9 (optional accessory)
Darning holes or worn areas
· replaces threads with the lengthwise and the crosswise
grains in all fabrics
Preparation
· stretch fabric into darning ring (optional accessory) to
prevent distortion
· use of the slide-on sewing table is recommended
Sewing
· move the darning ring smoothly and without using
pressure
· work from left to right
Stitch over the hole
· sew the first rows to cover the hole (not too close)
· turn work by a quarter turn – 90°
Cover the first rows
· sew over the first rows – not too close for a soft finish
· turn work by a half turn –180°
Complete darning
· loosely and in same direction as 2nd rows
Method for tubular items
· first step in a horizontal direction
· second and third steps in lengthways direction
When you have mastered the technique
· work the rows in irregular lengths so that the turns are
“lost” in the fabric
Stitching hints
· move the hoop as if writing the letters “L” or “M”
· when changing direction, move in curves, avoiding points
· this prevents holes and thread breakage
· do not sew in circles; these do not mimic the fabric
threads
Manual darning
TIPS
Thread breaks
· if thread breakage is a problem, it could be that the
ring is not being moved smoothly
Poor stitch formation
· if the thread is lying on top of the fabric, the ring is
being moved too quickly
· if there are knots on the underside of the fabric, the
ring is being moved too slowly
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
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35
Decorative stitches
9 mm wide decorative stitches
embroidery needle in a size suitable for the fabric selected
cotton or rayon embroidery
up (sewing position)
Reverse Pattern foot No. 1C or
Open Embroidery Foot No. 20C
Embroidery foot No. 6 (optional)
Decorative stitches
· for all fabrics
· for embellishing and decorative work
Stitch selection
· press the external menu button for Decorative stitches
· select the desired stitch group from the screen (groups
100, 300, 400, 600, 700, and 900 are 9mm stitches)
· select the desired stitch
Screen
· selected stitch is highlighted
· suggests foot 1; use foot No. 6 or No. 20C for heavy,
compact stitches
· basic settings (length and width) are automatically set,
but can be altered
Altering the stitch width
· alter the look of the stitch by adjusting the width
· turn the external stitch width knob to the right to
widen the stitch
· turn the external stitch width knob to the left to
narrow the stitch
· both the basic settings and the altered settings will be
visible on the screen
Altering the stitch length
· alter the look of the stitch by adjusting the length
· turn the external stitch width knob to the right to
lengthen the stitch
· turn the external stitch width knob to the left to
shorten the stitch
· both the basic settings and the altered settings will be
visible on the screen
Decorative stitches
TIP
Altering the basic settings
· the stitch can be adjusted as desired
· adjust the size of the stitch to suit the size of the item
being sewn, e.g, reduce the width for small items such
as doll clothes
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
A B C
Adecorative stitch with preset
width and length
B decorative stitch with reduced
width
Cdecorative stitch with shortened
length
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36
Cross stitches Nos. 301–309, 314 or Cross stitch No. 310
size and type suitable for the fabric selected
cotton or rayon embroidery
up (sewing position)
Reverse pattern foot No. 1C or Embroidery Foot No. 20C
Cross stitch
· a useful and attractive addition to sewing projects of all
types
· combine cross stitches with other decorative stitches
Sewing
· sew and combine stitches 301–309, 314 in the same
manner as all other decorative stitches
Large cross stitch no. 310 (1st section)
· sew the first section
· machine stops automatically in the center
· the machine stops with the needle down in the fabric
even if the needle stop indicates “up”
· a curved arrow appears on the screen next to the
needle stop indicator
· the arrow is a reminder to turn the fabric 90° before
stitching the second part of the stitch
Large cross stitch no. 310 (2nd section)
· sew the second section
· the machine stops automatically at the end and is
ready to begin the next cross stitch
Cross stitches
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
310
310
TIPS
Cross stitch with embroidery thread
· stitches appear fuller
Cross stitch on a single layer
· always use stabilizer
· remove stabilizer after sewing
Cross stitches
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37
Quilt stitches
TIPS
Perfect corners
· activate Pattern end when approaching corner; when
the machine stops automatically, sink the needle (if
needed) and pivot the work
Monofilament hints
· if the monofilament thread breaks, sew more slowly
and/or reduce the upper thread tension slightly
Hand-look quilt stitch
Quilt stitches No. 328, 346–350
size and type suitable for the fabric selected
monofilament
30 weight, 2 ply cotton
up (sewing position)
Reverse pattern foot No. 1C or
Walking foot No. 50 (optional accessory)
Hand-look quilt stitch
· for all fabrics and all types of work where the look of a
hand sewn running stitch is desired
Sewing test
· the bobbin thread comes through to the top of the
fabric
· 1 stitch is visible (cotton thread), 1 stitch is invisible
(monofilament thread) to give a hand stitched effect
Upper thread tension
· the upper thread tension is set automatically
· adjust if necessary to suit the fabric
Balance
· adjust if necessary
Sewing
· can be sewn with any needle position
Stitch:
Needle:
Upper thread:
Bobbin thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
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38
TIP
Perfect corners
· activate Pattern End; when the machine stops
automatically, sink the needle (if needed) and pivot the
work
Decorative quilt stitches
Quilt stitches Nos. 326–338, 351
size and type suitable for the fabric selected
cotton or rayon embroidery
up (sewing position)
Reverse pattern foot No. 1C
Straight stitch No. 326
· a short straight stitch (2mm)
· particularly suitable for piecing patchwork
Quilt stitches
· suitable for all fabrics and quilting
· especially applicable for crazy quilting
Balance
· adjust if necessary
Sewing
· select quilt stitch and sew
· all quilt stitches can be combined and programmed in
memory
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
Quilt stitches
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39
TIPS
Freehand quilting and darning
· both techniques are based on the same free-motion principles
Thread breaks
· usually as a result of sudden or jerky movements – move the
fabric smoothly and at an even pace
Poor stitch formation
· if the thread forms loops, the work is being moved too quickly
· if knots are forming on the underside, the work is being moved
too slowly
Monofilament hints
· if the monofilament thread breaks, sew more slowly
and/or reduce the upper thread tension slightly
Freehand quilting
Straight stitch No. 1
size and type suitable for the fabric selected
cotton or monofilament
down (darning position)
Darning foot No. 9 or Quilting foot No. 29C
Freehand quilting
· for all freehand quilt work
Preparation
· pin and baste top layer, batting, and lining together
· attach the slide-on sewing table or place machine in a
cabinet
Holding the work
· start in the center and work out toward the edges
· hold the fabric with both hands like an embroidery
frame
Quilting a design
· turn the work using smooth, round movements to form
the design of your choice (either freehand or following
a template)
Stipple quilting
· this technique covers the entire surface of the fabric
· the lines of stitching are rounded without any sharp
corners; they never cross or touch one another
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
9
Quilt stitches
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40
TIPS
Variations with basic settings
and functions
· before starting a new
combination, clear all
functions previously used
Decorative stitches on single
layer fabric
· always use stabilizer
· remove stabilizer after sewing
Activate needle stop down
when sewing long rows of
stitches
· needle stays in fabric when
stopping to reposition work
Single pattern
· the machine stops auto-
matically at the end of
each individual stitch pattern
9 mm decorative stitches
size and type suitable for the fabric selected
cotton or rayon embroidery
up (sewing position)
Reverse pattern foot No. 1C or
Open Embroidery foot No. 20C or
Embroidery Foot No. 6 (optional accessory)
Combining basic settings and functions
· you can achieve some exciting effects by combining basic
settings with various functions
Horizontal mirror image
Vertical mirror image
Pattern end 1–9
Half pattern
Balance
Long stitch function
Double needle limitation 2–8 mm
Wing needle limitation
Continuous reverse sewing
Pattern extend 2–5x
Balance
· use balance to obtain variations on stitches
· the stitch will be stretched open or
compressed, depending on the number of
balance steps
· for additional information on the balance
function, see pages 50–51
Method
· select stitch
· select function
· several functions can be activated for one
stitch
Deleting functions
· press the external clr button
· delete special functions individually by
touching the appropriate symbol
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
Using decorative stitches with functions
Combining decorative stitches with functions
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41
· the memory capacity is 1023 individual stitch patterns
· the memory has 255 banks
· each bank can be sub-divided as desired
· most practical and decorative stitches as well as letters
and numbers can be combined, programmed, and
saved in memory
· exceptions: buttonholes
· all saved stitches remain in the memory when the
machine is turned off
· all saved stitches and combinations can be recalled at
any time
Programming practical and decorative stitches
· open the memory by pressing the external mem button
· touch mem 1 to access the memory storage screen
· select an empty memory bank
· touch OK to return to the previous screen
· select the desired stitch
· the stitch appears in the mem field
· select the next desired stitch
· continue in this manner until the desired combination
of stitches has been programmed
· to save, touch store
Example of programmed stitch combination
· select a memory bank following the directions above
· touch stitch 407 one time
· touch stitch 102 one time
· touch stitch 711 one time
· begin stitching; the stitches will continuously alternate
· to save, touch store
Examples of programmed stitch with function
· select a memory bank following the directions above
· touch stitch 413 one time
· activate vertical mirror image
· touch stitch 413 one time
· begin stitching; the stitches will continuously alternate
facing up and down
· to save, touch store
· select a memory bank following the directions above
· touch stitch 104 one time
· activate vertical mirror image
· touch stitch 104 one time
· begin stitching; the stitches will continuously alternate
facing up and down
· to save, touch store
Practical and decorative stitches in memory
Practical and decorative stitches in memory
naeh_artista_180_engl. 7.10.2002 16:32 Uhr Seite 43
42
Stitch combination as single repeat
· select a memory bank following the directions on the
previous page
· touch stitch 409 one time
· touch stitch 616 two times
· on the toolbar, activate Pattern end 2
· stitch; the machine stops automatically at the end of
the second combination of stitches
· to save, touch store
Stitch combination with mirror image as single repeat
· select a memory bank following the directions on the
previous page
· touch stitch 109 one time
· touch stitch 414 one time
· activate horizontal mirror image
· touch stitch 414 one time
· activate horizontal mirror image
· touch stitch 109 one time
· on the toolbar, activate Pattern end 1
· stitch; the machine stops automatically
at the end of the combination of stitches
· to save, touch store
TIPS
Decorative stitch combination with embroidery thread
· stitches appear fuller
Stitch combinations on single layer of fabric
· always use a stabilizer
· remove stabilizer after sewing
Practical and decorative stitches in memory
naeh_artista_180_engl. 7.10.2002 16:32 Uhr Seite 44
43
· the memory capacity is 1023 individual stitch patterns
· the memory has 255 banks
· each bank can be sub-divided as desired
· most practical and decorative stitches as well as letters
and numbers can be combined, programmed, and saved
in memory
· exceptions: buttonholes
· all saved stitches remain in the memory when the
machine is turned off
· all saved stitches and combinations can be recalled at
any time
Programming letters and numbers
· open the memory by pressing the external mem button
· touch mem 1 to access the memory storage screen
· select an empty memory bank
· touch OK to return to the previous screen
· select the desired letter
· the letter appears in the mem field
· select the next desired letter
· continue in this manner until the desired combination
of letters has been programmed
· to save, touch store
Examples of programming letters
· select a memory bank following the directions above
· press the external alphabet button
· touch the block letter alphabet
· touch the appropriate letters to spell “BERNINA”
· on the toolbar, activate Pattern end 1
· begin stitching; the letters will continuously stitch,
automatically stopping after the “A”
· to save, touch store
· for double length letters, select Pattern the Extend 2x
function before programming
Examples of programming numbers
· follow the directions above for programming letters,
selecting numbers instead
· begin stitching; the numbers will continuously stitch,
automatically stopping after the last one
·to save, touch store
Examples of programming small monograms
· select a memory bank following the directions above
· press the external alphabet button
· touch the 9mm script alphabet
· touch the desired letters
· on the toolbar, activate Pattern end 1
· begin stitching; the letters will continuously stitch,
automatically stopping after the last one
· to save, touch store
Securing
· select the Securing function
· the first and last letters will be secured
Letters and numbers in memory
TIPS
Activate Pattern end after programming
· the machine will sew the program once and stop
Embroidering letters on a single layer of fabric
· always use stabilizer
· remove stabilizer after sewing
Practical and decorative stitches in memory
naeh_artista_180_engl. 7.10.2002 16:32 Uhr Seite 45
44
Straight stitch No.1 or Zig-zag No. 2
size and type suitable for the fabric selected
cotton or polyester
up (sewing position)
Sideways motion foot No. 40
16 direction sewing
· for creative embellishment
· for quilting without turning the fabric
External button
· press the external Quilt/Directional button
· touch the 16 direction symbol
Stitch length and width
Straight stitch:
· the stitch length is generally 3 mm in all directions
Zig-zag:
· the stitch length is programmed to satin stitch
· it can be freely altered between 0mm and 1mm
· the stitch width can be freely altered between 0mm
and 9mm
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
16 direction sewing
Thread tension
· the tension is automatically set when the 16 direction
program is selected
Screen
· Straight Stitch and Zig-zag appear
· a “compass” is in the center of the screen
· a presser foot is in the center of the compass
· the points indicate the 16 directions
· one touch to right or left = one step in the chosen
direction
· continuous pressing = faster direction change
· a long line indicates the direction selected
Sewing
· select the stitch
· adjust stitch width or length if required
· determine the direction on the compass
· the machine sews the selected stitch in the direction
chosen
Change direction
· stop the machine after sewing the desired distance
· select new direction on the compass
· sew
TIPS
16 directional sewing with embroidery thread
· stitches appear fuller
16 directional sewing on a single layer of fabric
· always use stabilizers a backing
· remove stabilizer after sewing
Embellishing with 16 direction sewing
· can be programmed in memory in combination with other stitches for truly
multi-directional embellishment possibilities
16 directions
naeh_artista_180_engl. 7.10.2002 16:32 Uhr Seite 46
4516 directions
Straight stitch No. 39
Long stitch
size and type suitable for the fabric selected
cotton, polyester, or rayon
up (sewing position)
Sideways motion foot No. 40
16 direction straight stitch as connecting threads
· long connecting threads between individual sideways
motion stitches or monogram letters
· connecting threads may be removed after sewing
Stitch length
· the length of the connecting stitches with the Long
stitch function is 9 mm (in all directions)
· it cannot be altered
Sewing
· select Straight Stitch
· select the desired direction on the compass
· activate the Long stitch function
· the machine sews long connecting stitches in the direc-
tion chosen
· clear the Long stitch function
Stitch:
Function:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
Connecting stitch patterns
TIP
All-over embellishment
· use this technique to embellish fabric in an all-over design
naeh_artista_180_engl. 7.10.2002 16:32 Uhr Seite 47
TIP
Patching fabrics that ravel
· finish the edges of the patch
· stitch just inside the edge of the patch
· do not trim the patch
46 4 directions
4 direction sewing
Stitches No. 41–48
size and type suitable for the fabric selected
cotton or polyester
up (sewing position)
Sideways motion foot no. 40
Automatic sewing in 4 directions
· sew in 4 directions without turning the fabric
· for adding patches to trousers, sleeves, and other
tubular items
Preparation for patches
· cut the patch slightly larger than the hole in the
garment
· position the patch on the fabric over the hole
Technique for decorative squares and patches
· press external direction button
· touch the 4 direction symbol
· select the desired stitch
· align the edge of the presser foot with one edge of the
patch and sew one side
· change direction with the right or left arrow
· sew the second side, etc.
· the best method for sewing
squares and rectangles is
from top to bottom and from
right to left (clockwise)
· trim the surplus fabric close
to the stitches
· trim worn area behind the patch
Using the Pattern end function
· use the Pattern end function 1–9 for quicker and more
efficient work
· program the number of stitches into memory for one
side
· select Pattern end 1
· sew; the machine stops automatically
· change directions
· sew; the machine stops automatically
· continue in this manner for all four sides
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
naeh_artista_180_engl. 7.10.2002 16:32 Uhr Seite 48
47Sideways motion stitches
Sideways motion stitches/monograms
size and type suitable for the fabric selected
cotton or rayon embroidery
up (sewing position)
Sideways motion foot No. 40
Sideways motion stitches
· outline designs, i.e. only the outer contours of the motif
are sewn
· monograms
· sideways motion stitches are indicated on the screen
with crossed arrows
Fabric feed
· the fabric is moved forward and backward in the usual
manner
· the fabric is also moved from side to side
Tension
· the tension is set automatically when the stitch is
selected
Size
· the size of sideways motion stitches cannot be altered
· monograms can be sewn in 3 different sizes (30/20/15 mm)
Stitch length and width
· the length and width of sideways motion stitches cannot be
altered
Balance
· the appearance of the stitches can be affected by the fabric,
stabilizer and thread quality
· balance can be used to adapt the stitch to the chosen fabric
· for additional information, see pages 50–51
Sideways motion stitches and functions
· sideways motion stitches can be combined with all the functions
which appear on the screen, e.g. mirror image
Test sewing
· it is always worth test sewing with the materials you intend to
use – fabric, stabilizer and thread!
Template
· templates help you to position the motifs
· all sideways motion stitches are in their original size on the
template
(Exception: medium and small monograms)
· a circle shows the starting point
· a cross shows the end point
· there is a hole at the beginning and end to simplify marking
· the direction is indicated by a presser foot symbol and solid
guide lines
· the presser foot must always run parallel to the lines
· the templates are provided with the owners manual of the
machine
No templates for medium and small monograms
· there is no template for these as they start and finish in a
straight line
· they are sewn as they are written
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
Sideways motion stitches – Outline Designs
naeh_artista_180_engl. 7.10.2002 16:32 Uhr Seite 49
48
TIPS
Sewing sideways motion stitches on a large piece of fabric
· make sure that the fabric can move freely as the sideways
motion design is stitched
· if the feed is inhibited, the motif may not be stitched
properly
Sewing sideways motion stitches
· use a light touch,a finger tipfeeding in guiding the fabric
· hold the fabric so that it is kept in vertical alignment
· avoid pulling the fabric
· draw parallel lines on the fabric with a fabric pen or
tailor’s chalk to aid in guiding
Sideways motion stitches and sewing table
· the slide-on sewing table is very useful when sewing
these stitches
Sideways motion stitches on a single layer of fabric
· always use a stabilizer
· remove stabilizer after sewing
External button
· press the external Decorative stitch button
· press the external Alphabet button for monograms
Screen
· select any of the motifs marked with crossed arrows
· or select monograms
Sewing
· using the template mark the beginning of the stitch
on the fabric
· note the sewing direction
· insert the needle into the fabric at the beginning mark
· position the fabric so that the solid guide lines on the
template lines are parallel to the presser foot
· stitch; the machine sews the selected stitch and stops
automatically at the ending point
Sideways motion stitches
naeh_artista_180_engl. 7.10.2002 16:32 Uhr Seite 50
49
Sideways motion stitches
Sideways motion stitches in memory
Sideways motion stitches in memory
· all sideways motion stitches and monograms can be
programmed and saved in memory; however, they
cannot be sewn in sequence like decorative stitches
· the beginning and ending points of sideways motion
stitches vary considerably and are sometimes within the
stitch itself
Combining sideways motion stitches and monograms
in memory
· sideways motion stitches and monograms can be
combined with 16 direction stitching and saved in
memory
Open memory/program letter
· press external mem button
· select stitch
· the stitch appears in memory in the usual manner
Determine spacing with the template
· position the template with the selected letters,
e.g.F and G
· the sewing directions must correspond
· place the presser foot symbol of the 16 direction
template on the end point of the first letter
· the sewing directions must correspond
· note the direction to the starting point of the next
letter
· note the number of repeats (each 9 mm)
· program and save the direction and repeats in memory
· for more information, see pages 44-45
Program the second letter
· program the second letter
· program Pattern end function
· sew
Medium/small monograms
· medium and small monograms always start and finish
on a straight line
· they are sewn as they are written
TIPS
Sideways motion stitches and other stitches
· create delightful designs by combining individual sideways
motion stitches with other stitches
Sideways motion stitches and sewing table
· the slide-on sewing table is a real help when sewing these
stitches
naeh_artista_180_engl. 7.10.2002 16:32 Uhr Seite 51
50
All stitches are tested and adjusted before the machine
leaves the factory; however, shipping and transporting
can affect the setting of the balance function.
Different fabrics, threads and stabilizers can distort the
stitch patterns so that they are too long (do not close
properly) or too short (have a condensed appearance).
The electronic balance function can be used to correct
these distortions so that stitches can be adjusted for a
perfect formation on the fabric of your choice.
all stitches
all types, 70–110
all threads
up (sewing position)
as indicated on screen
Test sewing
· it is always a good idea to test sew with the materials
you intend to use – fabric, stabilizer and threads
Open balance
· touch the arrow on the functions toolbar
· scroll the functions
· touch “b”
· soft fabrics such as jerseys and tricot have a tendency
to stretch under the presser foot
· stitches such as Honeycomb may therefore not close
correctly
· this can be corrected with the balance function
Balance for practical stitches
· the stitch as it should look, e.g. Honeycomb, is in the
center of the screen
· possible stitch distortions are shown to the right and
left of the correct stitch
· the arrows at the bottom of the screen show in which
direction the stitch should be corrected
Note: the honeycomb stitch graphic will be seen
on-screen for all practical stitches
Corrections
· touch the appropriate arrow to balance the stitch
· the number of steps is shown above the arrow
· 2–5 steps are normally sufficient to balance practical
stitches (max. 50 steps)
Balance for 9 mm decorative stitches
· the method is the same as for practical stitches
Note: the satin stitched oval graphic will be seen
on-screen for all decorative stitches
Balance
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
Balance
Balance and practical stitches/9 mm decorative stitches
balanced
stitch open
stitch
overlapping
stitch
naeh_artista_180_engl. 7.10.2002 16:32 Uhr Seite 52
51Balance
Fabric, thread and stabilizer all play an important role in
the appearance of sideways motion stitches. Because of
this, corrections are sometimes necessary.
Balance
· the stitch as it should look appears in the center of the
left half of the screen
Note: the ivy motif will be seen on-screen for all
sideways motion motifs
· two possible distortions are shown to the right and left
· if the sewn sample shows a similar distortion to the one
on the right, correct with the appropriate arrow
· if the sewn sample shows a similar distortion to the one
on the left, correct with appropriate arrow
Correcting vertically
· touch the appropriate arrow to alter the balance
· the steps are shown above the arrow
· the number of steps required depend heavily on the
type of fabric (test sew)
· if more than 10 balance steps are necessary, the stitch
will automatically be made smaller
Correcting horizontally
· horizontal balance is shown on the right half of the
screen
· it is possible that the stitch stretches sideways after
balancing vertically; the center line will appear
distorted
· it can balanced in the opposite direction
(max. 20 steps)
TIPS
Correcting practical stitches and 9 mm decorative stitches
· 2–5 balance steps are normally sufficient to balance the stitch
· adjust slowly a step at a time so that you can control the
balance
Correcting sideways motion stitches
· always balance vertically first and then horizontally
· this is the quickest way to obtain a perfectly balanced stitch
· 5–10 steps are normally sufficient to balance the stitch
Balance for sideways motion stitches
naeh_artista_180_engl. 7.10.2002 16:32 Uhr Seite 53
52
16 directional sewing 44, 45
4 directional sewing 46
A
Auto buttonholes 25
Auto round and keyhole
buttonholes 26
Automatic darning program 33
B
Balance and practical/
decorative stitches 50
Balance and sideways
motion stitches 51
Bar tack program 20
Basting 16
Blind hem 17
Button sewing-on program 29
Buttonholes 21–28
C
Contents 1
Cross stitches 36
D
Darning programs 33
Darning, mending 31–34
Decorative squares/patches 46
Decorative stitches in memory 41–43
Decorative stitches with functions 40
Decorative stitches 35
Directional stitching 44
Double overlock seam 9
E
Edge stitching 4
Edges of knits with shirring elastic 31
Elastic, cord – sewing on 18, 19
Eyelets with straight stitch 30
Eyelets with zig-zag 30
F
Flat joining seam 10
Freehand quilting 39
G
Gathering stitch – sewing
on elastic/cord 18
H
Honeycomb stitch edges 12
J
Jersey overlock seam 9
L
Letters and numbers in memory 43
Long Stitch 15
M
Manual buttonholes 28
Manual darning 34
Memory – letters and numbers 43
Memory – practical and
decorative stitches 41–43
Memory – sideways
motion stitches 49
N
Numbers and letters in memory 43
O
Outline designs 47, 48
P
Patches – sewing in 4 directions 46
Patches on knits and jersey 32
Personal (altered) memory 6
Practical stitch hems 11
Practical stitch seams 7–10
Practical stitches in memory 41–43
Q
Quilt stitches 38
Quilt/hand look stitches 37
R
Reinforced darning program 33
Reinforcing edges on woven fabrics32
Ribbing with overlock 13
Index
Index
S
Securing program (straight stitch) 3
Sewing in 16 directions 44, 45
Sewing in 4 directions 46
Sewing knits 12, 13
Sideways motion stitches
in memory 49
Sideways motion stitches 47, 48
Stitch counter buttonholes 27
Straight stitch buttonholes 24
Straight stitch with
securing program 3
Straight stitch 2
Stretch overlock seam 10
Stretch/Super stretch seam 8
T
Triple straight stitch seam 8
U
Universal stitch – sewing on elastic 18
V
Vari-overlock – ribbing 13
Vari-overlock seam 9
Z
Zig-zag stitch 5
Zippers 14
01/09 GB 008 854 73 04
naeh_artista_180_engl. 7.10.2002 16:32 Uhr Seite 54
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