453310
3
Verklein
Vergroot
Pagina terug
1/52
Pagina verder
In choosing BERNINA, you are assured of years of rewarding sewing.
For over 100 years my family has concentrated on providing complete satisfaction to our
customers. And it is my personal wish to continue this tradition of offering you
Swiss precision engineering combined with state of the art technology and an after sales service
second to none.
The new BERNINA activa 125 are characterized by a youthful appeal which is combined with a
range of added value features to give you, dear Customer, more sewing pleasure than ever before.
Enjoy modern, creative sewing with BERNINA: our wide range of accessories as well as
our sewing publications brimming with imaginative ideas and practical tips all add to the joy of
sewing BERNINA style.
Any questions you have will be dealt with courteously and efficiently by our highly
trained BERNINA dealers, who will also be glad to service your sewing computer for you.
Fritz Gegauf Ltd.
BERNINA Sewing Machines
CH-8266 Steckborn/Switzerland
”Welcome to
the BERNINA
family”
H.P. Ueltschi
Owner BERNINA
Sewing Machine Company
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2
WARNING
To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock or injury
to persons:
1. Do not allow to be used as a toy.
Close attention is necessary when the sewing computer is
used by or near children and infirm persons.
2. Use this sewing computer only for its intended use as
described in this manual. Use only attachments recommended
by the manufacturer as contained in this manual.
3. Never operate this sewing computer if
it has a damaged cord or plug
it is not working properly
it has been dropped or damaged
it has fallen into water
Return the sewing computer to the nearest authorized
BERNINA dealer or service center for examination, repair,
electrical or mechanical adjustment.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS
When using an electrical machine, basic safety precautions should
always be followed, including the following.
Read all instructions before using this sewing computer.
When the sewing computer is not in use, it should be
disconnected from the electricity supply by removing the plug
from the outlet.
DANGER
To reduce the risk of electric shock:
1. A sewing computer should never be left unattended when
plugged in.
2. Always unplug the sewing computer from the electric outlet
immediately after using and before cleaning.
3. Always unplug before replacing light bulb. Replace the bulb
with the same type rated 12 volts/5 watts.
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3Safety instructions
11. Never drop or insert any object into any opening.
12. Do not use outdoors.
13. Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or
where oxygen is being administered.
14. Before disconnecting, turn all controls to the off («0») position
then remove the plug from the outlet.
15. Do not unplug by pulling on the cord but grasp the plug.
16. No responsibility will be taken for any possible damage as the
result of misuse of the sewing computer.
This sewing computer is intended for household use only.
SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS!
4. Never operate the computer with any air openings blocked.
Keep ventilation openings of the sewing computer and foot
control free from accumulation of lint, dust and loose cloth.
5. Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is
required around the sewing needle.
6. Always use the BERNINA original needle plate. The wrong plate
can cause the needle to break.
7. Do not use bent needles.
8. Do not pull or push fabric while stitching. It may deflect the
needle causing it to break.
9. Turn power switch to «0» when making any adjustments
in the needle area, such as threading or changing the needle,
threading the bobbin or changing the presser foot.
10. Always unplug the sewing computer from the electrical outlet
when removing covers, lubricating or when making any other
user servicing adjustments mentioned in this instruction manual.
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2
3
5
6
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8
9
10
11
12
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14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
4
31
Details4
Details of the sewing computer
Front view
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5Details
1 Bobbin cover
2 Stitch plate
3 Attachment base for
special accessories
4 Sewing table socket
5 Presser foot
6 Needle clamp with
fixation screw
7 Thread guide
8 Thread take up cover
9 Thread path
10 Thread tension
adjustment
11 Bobbin pre-tension
12 Reverse button/quick and
continuous
13 Screen
14 Bobbin winder with
on/off switch and thread
cutter
15 Stitch width button
16 Needle position button
17 Stitch length button
18 Needle stop up/down
19 1/2 speed
20 Stitch selection buttons
21 #-button
22 clr/del-button
23 Handwheel
24 FHS connection
25 Balance adjustment knob
26 Power switch on/off
27 Power plug socket
28 Drop feed-dog
29 Foot control socket
30 Spool pin (vertical,
collapsible)
31 Start-stop-unit (optional)
23
10
14
11
30
26
27
25
29
28
Right end
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37
4
34
36
39
40
3
32
Details6
Back view
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7Details
32 Carrying handle
33 Presser foot lifter
(manual)
34 Thread cutter
35 Thread take up
36 Darning ring connection
37 Accessory box connection
38 Thread tension disc
39 Rear thread guide
40 Horizontal spool pin
Accessory box
Sewing computer with Accessory box
34
33
39
35
32
38
40
Left end
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foot control
instruction manual
power cable
warranty card
fabric case for standard
accessories
Accessories
Standard accessories*:
4 bobbins (+ 1 in the capsule
in the sewing computer)
Selection of 130/705H needles
Seam ripper
Screwdriver
Angle key Torx
Screwdriver Torx
Lint brush
Seam guide
Compensating plate
3 spool discs
Foam pad
Reverse pattern foot No. 1
Overlock foot No. 2
Buttonhole foot No.3
Zipper foot No. 4
Blind stitch foot No. 5
* can vary from country to country;
see presser foot selection p. 24
Fabric cover**
protects from dust and dirt
compartment for accessories
8 Setting up the sewing computer
Start-stop-unit**
** available as a special accessory
With the Start-stop-unit (SSU)
the start-stop-function can be
controlled by hand.
press start-stop-button A =
stitching starts
with the speed regulator B
the sewing speed can be
regulated by hand
to interrupt or stop sewing =
press start-stop-button A
again
Note:
If the foot control is connec-
ted with the sewing machine,
the Start-stop-unit is out
functions.
A
B
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Setting up the sewing computer 9
Attaching the accessory box to the
sewing computer
close the doors
push feet back into position
attach the box to the sewing computer
(catch A must engage); inserting
the presser foot lifter into the opening H
Note: first lower the presser foot lifter!
Removing the accessory box
press catch A on the top of the box
remove box to the rear
Free standing accessory box
pull both feet out until they click into
place
stand box in chosen position
Storing accessories
Standard accessories are supplied in a
plastic bag.
The box is equipped with one small and
one large drawer (B and C) as well as com-
partments for bobbin holders D and presser
feet E. (Additional compartments and
drawers are available as optional extras.)
push the bobbins into the compartments
provided
to remove a bobbin, press the compart-
ment holder F lightly
insert the presser foot shaft into the
slot E
the snap-on soles can be stored in the big
drawer C
the needle selection box can be stored in
compartment G
Accessory box**
** available as a special accessory
A
C
F
B
D
E
H
G
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Setting up the sewing computer10
The power cable
plug A into sewing computer
plug B into wall socket
Foot control cable
plug C into sewing computer
Important! (USA/Canada only)
This sewing computer has a
polarized plug (one blade
wider than the other). To re-
duce the risk of electric shock,
this plug is intended to fit in a
polarized outlet only one way.
If the plug does not fit fully in
the outlet, reverse the plug.
If it still does not fit, contact a
qualified electrican to install
the proper outlet. Do not
modify the plug in any way.
The foot control regulates the
sewing speed
Sewing speed is adjusted by
applying more or less pressure
to the foot control.
Important! (USA/Canada only)
Use only foot controller type
SR-1 with the sewing computer
activa 125.
Power cable
Foot control
Self storing cord
wind the cord on the reel
insert the plug into the groo-
ve provided
When sewing
unwind the cable
Power switch
The switch is on the hand-
wheel side of the computer
1 the computer is switched on
0 the computer is switched off
The sewing light is switched on
and off with the power switch.
Refer to the safety instruction!
B
A
C
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11Setting up the sewing computer
Sewing table*
Increases the sewing surface.
To attach
raise the needle and presser
foot
place the table over the free
arm and press firmly so that it
engages on the fixing cam
Attaching the presser foot
lifter
Insert into the opening in the
base plate: you should be able
to operate the lifter with your
knee in your normal sitting
position.
Note:
Your dealer can adjust it if
necessary.
Free-Hand-System (FHS) presser foot lifter* (knee-operated)
The presser foot lifter raises
and lowers the presser foot
push to the right
the presser foot is raised
the feed-dog is lowered
simultaneously
the feed-dog is raised as soon
as the first stitch is sewn
To remove
raise the needle and presser
foot
pull the table out of the
fixing cam
pull in horizontal position to
the left
Scale
«0» corresponds to the centre
needle position
Seam guide
insert into the groove (under-
side of table) from the right or
left
it can be freely adjusted over
the whole width of the table
Note: Should the occasion
arise, remove the presser foot
shaft when attaching the
seam guide!
* available as a special accessory
* available as a special accessory
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Setting up the sewing computer12
Winding the bobbin
turn power switch on
place empty bobbin on
spindle
following the direction of the arrow take thread through the rear
guide and round the pre-tension stud
wind it several times round the empty bobbin
press the engaging lever against the bobbin
press the foot control
the motor will stop automatically when the bobbin is full
remove the bobbin
Thread cutter
cut the thread on the thread
cutter
Winding the bobbin
Note:
When winding the bobbin
on the vertical spool holder
(p. 15), it may be necessary to
adjust the speed.
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13Setting up the sewing computer
Bobbin case
To remove the bobbin case
raise the needle
turn power switch to «0»
open the bobbin cover
grasp the latch of the bobbin
case
remove case
To insert the bobbin case
hold the bobbin case latch
the finger on the case should
point upwards
insert so that it clicks into
place
Bobbin thread cutter
insert the bobbin case
take the thread over cutter A
thread is cut
close the bobbin cover
Note:
The bobbin thread does not
have to be brought up as
the loose end is just the right
length to start sewing.
Refer to the safety instruction!
A
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Setting up the sewing computer14
Inserting the bobbin
... it lies in the T-shaped slit at
the end of the spring.
The bobbin must turn clock-
wise when thread is pulled.
Insert the bobbin
Insert the bobbin so that the
thread runs clockwise.
Pull the thread counter clock-
wise into the slot.
Pull the thread to the left
under the spring until ...
Removing the needle
raise the needle
turn power switch to 0
lower the presser foot
loosen the needle clamp screw
pull the needle down to remove
Inserting the needle
flat side of needle to the back
insert the needle as far as it will go
tighten the needle clamp screw
Changing the needle
Refer to the safety instruction!
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15Setting up the sewing computer
Changing the presser foot
Changing the presser foot
sole
raise the needle and the
presser foot shaft
turn power switch to «0»
press the button on the shaft
to release the sole
Attaching the presser foot
sole
place the presser foot sole
under the shaft so that the
peg sits under the opening of
the shaft
Refer to the safety
instruction!
Collapsible vertical spool pin
found on the back of the sewing computer
behind the handwheel
essential aid for sewing with more than one thread, i.e. double
needle work
raise the pin until it clicks into its vertical position
when using large reels, add the foam pad A for stability
Supplementary spool pin
A
lower the presser foot lifter
and the foot sole will click
into position
3
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Setting up the sewing computer16
Threading the upper thread
raise the needle and presser foot
turn the power switch to 0
place spool on pin and attach the appropriate
spool disc (diameter of spool = disc size)
take thread through rear guide A
then into slit of upper thread tension
pull thread down to the right of the take-up cover to B
then up to the left of the cover to C
and down through guides D and E
Refer to the safety instruction!
A
C
D
E
C
C
D
E
B
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17Setting up the sewing computer
Bringing up the lower thread
hold the upper thread
sew one stitch
pull the upper thread until the bobbin thread appears
in the stitch plate hole
pull bobbin thread out of the hole and insert both
threads through the slit in the presser foot towards the back
pull threads over the cutter
Note:
The bobbin thread must be
brought up through the stitch
plate for certain types of
work. The length of thread
is sufficient for most normal
work if the lower thread
cutter has been used.
Thread cutter
pull both threads from front to back over the
cutter
the threads release as soon as the first stitch is
sewn
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Setting up the sewing computer18
Stitch plate
Stitch plate markings
the stitch plate is marked with seam guide lines in mm and inches
the millimetre markings are at the front
the inch markings are at the back
the measurements show the distance (with needle position centre) from
needle to line
lines are provided to the right and left of the needle
they are very useful guide lines for precise seaming
the horizontal lines are useful for sewing corners, etc.
Feed-dog
Button below the handwheel
Button flush with housing =
sewing position
Button depressed = feed-dog is lowered
for free-hand sewing (darning, embroidery, etc.)
1
5
/
8
1
10 201020
1
/
4
1
/
4
5
/
8
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19Setting up the sewing computer
3
5
A
Thread tension
The basic setting
is indicated when the red line on the tension
adjustment wheel is in line with the marking A
the tension does not need adjusting for normal
sewing work
for special sewing work, the tension can be
adjusted to suit the fabric
To reduce the tension
turn to between 3 and 1
To increase the tension
turn to between 5 and 10
The tension is factory set for the best results.
Metrosene 100/2 (Arova Mettler, Switzerland)
is used to set both the upper and lower thread
tension.
If other sewing or embroidery threads are used,
the tension may need adjusting to suit the fabric
and chosen stitch.
For example:
Tension Needle
Metallic thread approx. 3 90
Monofilament approx. 2–4 80
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Operating instructions20
0
23451
5.5
1
2
3
4
5
0
1
2
3
4
5
6
General instructions
Main switch to 1
the sewing sewing computer is ready to sew
The screen shows
1 stitch width basic setting blinks constantly
2 stitch length basic setting blinks constantly
3 needle position (9 positions)
4 needle stop up/down (generally up)
5 stitch number 1 (straight stitch)
6 presser foot number 1 indicator (recommended foot
for selected stitch)
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Stitch width
left button = narrow the stitch width
right button = widen the stitch width
the basic settings of the chosen stitch blink constantly
Needle position
left button = needle to the left
right button = needle to the right
Stitch length
left button = shorten the stitch length
right button = increase the stitch length
21
Operating instructions
Stitch* selection
stitches 1–10:
touch the number of your choice; stitch number and basic width and
length settings appear
Note: touch 0 to select stitch number 10 (standard buttonhole)
stitches 11–20:
touch #-button and the appropriate number
* see p. 25 for the complete stitch selection
#
clr
del
1
4
7
2
5
8
0
3
6
9
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Operating instructions22
Reverse sewing
quick reverse:
press button
Sewing computer sews reverse until button
is released (max. stitch length 3 mm)
Applications:
programming buttonholes
programming darning program
switch to straight stitch securing program
(stitch no. 5)
manual securing (seam begin and end)
continous reverse:
press button quickly twice
the sewing computer sews the chosen stitch
in reverse
press button once again to cancel
1/2 speed
press the button and the sewing speed will be
halved
press the button again to revert to full speed
Functions
Needle stop
basic setting needle stop up
press button
arrow points down = sewing computer stops
with needle down
press button again
arrow points up = sewing computer stops
with needle up
Note: Press key a bit longer = the needle will go
automatically up or down.
#-button
Stitch selection button (see p. 21)
clr/del (clear/delete)
press button = reverts to basic settings
other selected functions are cleared
Exceptions:
needle stop down
1/2 speed
Functions are ...
activated when the symbol appears on the screen.
deactivated when the symbols no longer appear on the screen.
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23Operating instructions
Balance
Note:
If the balance has been
adjusted, return it to the
normal setting once sewing
is completed.
Your sewing computer has
been tested and factory set
using a double layer of
cretonne fabric and Metrosene
100/2 threads (Arova Mettler,
Switzerland).
Applications:
Practical stitches, e.g.
Honeycomb stitch on jersey,
decorative stitches, fantasy stit-
ches, letters, buttonholes, etc.
Normal position Denser stitch formation
(shorter stitch length)
Finer stitch formation
(longer stitch length)
Different fabrics, threads and
stabilisers can naturally affect
the stitch balance so that they
are sewn too close together or
not close enough.
This can be remedied with
Balance to suit the fabric and
produce perfect results.
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Presser feet24
Presser foot selection (snap-on system)
2
Overlock sole
Vari-overlock seam
Vari-overlock hem
Oversewing seam edges
2
1
4
5
1
Reverse pattern sole
Practical stitches
Decorative stitches
Presser foot shaft
for snap-on soles
4
Zip sole
Sewing in zips
Sewing close along raised seam
3
Buttonhole sole
Buttonholes
5
Blind stitch sole
Blind hemming
Edge stitching
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1413
16
11 15
2017 18 19
12
#
clr
del
1
4
7
2
5
8
0
3
6
9
25Stiches
Stitches
Practical and decorative
1 Straight stitch
2 Zig-zag
3 Vari-overlock
4 Running stitch
5 Securing stitch
6 Triple straight and zig-zag
7 Blind stitch
8 Double overlock
9 Super stretch stitch
10 Standard buttonhole
11 Darning program
12 Gathering stitch
Quilting- and Decorative stitches
13–15 Quilting stitches
16–20 Decorative stitches
activa 125
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Stitches26
Stitch selection
All non-stretch fabrics. All straight stitch work
Most fabric types; all simple zig-zag such as oversewing fine
fabrics. Sewing on elastic and lace
Primarily for fine jerseys, stretch overlock seams and hems
Most types of fabric. Mending, patching, reinforcing seams
All types of fabric. Secures the beginning and end of seams sewn
with straight stitch
Reinforced seams in tough, heavy fabrics
Most types of fabric; blind hems, shell edging on soft jerseys and
fine fabrics, decorative seams
All types of knit; Overlock = sew and neaten in one operation
Open seam for all super-stretch fabrics
1
3
2
4
6
5
7
1 Straight stitch
2 Zig-zag
3 Vari-overlock
4 Running stitch
5 Securing stitch
6 Triple straight and
triple zig-zag
7 Blind stitch
8 Double overlock
9 Super stretch
8
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27Stitches
10
Fine to medium weight woven fabrics; blouses, shirts, trousers,
bedlinens, etc.
Automatic darning for fine and medium weight fabrics
Most types of fabric.
Gahering with shirring elastic.
Butted seams = butting two pressed edges and sewing together.
10 Standard buttonhole
11 Darning program
12 Gathering stitch
11
12
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Selected practical stitches: Straight stitch28
Straight stitch No. 1
size and type suitable for the fabric selected (see p. 42)
cotton/polyester
up (sewing position)
Reverse pattern foot No. 1
Straight stitch
Straight stitch (A)
The sewing computer is ready to sew as soon as you switch on
The screen shows
Stitch No. 1
Presser foot No. 1
basic setting (length and width) for straight stitch
basic setting bliks contstantly
Altering the stitch length (B)
You can alter the length while you sew:
shorter
longer
Change the needle position (C)
4 positions to the left
4 positions to the right
Securing with the reverse button
press the button and the sewing computer sews in reverse
release the button and the sewing computer sews forward
A Straight stitch with
length of 2,25 mm
preset length
B Straight stitch with
altered length
C Straight stitch with
altered needle positions
AB C
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
0
23451
5.5
1
2
3
4
5
0
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29Selected practical stitches: Straight stitch with securing program
Securing program
for all fabrics
secures seam begin and end
sews exactly over the previous stitches
Seam begin
sewing computer secures automatically (5 stitches forwards,
5 reverse)
continues sewing straight stitch forwards
Seam end
press the reverse button = sewing computer secures
automatically (5 stitches reverse, 5 forwards)
stops automatically when securing is complete
Securing program No. 5
size and type suitable for the fabric selected (see p. 42)
cotton/polyester
up (sewing position)
Reverse pattern foot No. 1
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
Securing program
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Selected practical stitches: Zig-zag stitch30
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
A Zig-zag stitch with altered
stitch width
B Zig-zag stitch with altered
stitch length
C Fabric edges finished with
zig-zag stitch
A B C
Zig-zag No. 2
size and type suitable for the fabric selected (see p. 42)
cotton or polyester
up (sewing position)
Reverse pattern foot No. 1
Zig-zag stitch
for all fabrics
for neatening edges
for decorative work
Satin stitch
dense (shorter) zig-zag stitch = filled in zig-zag
adjust the stitch width as you sew for new effects
Oversewing edges (C)
guide edge of fabric under the center of the presser foot
needle goes into fabric on one strike and over the edge of the
fabric on the next stroke
do not select too wide a width or too long a stitch – the edge
should lie flat and not roll
use darning thread for fine fabrics
Zig-zag stitch
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31Selected practical stitches: Blind hem
Blind hem No. 7
size and type suitable for the fabric selected (see p. 42)
cotton or polyester
up (sewing position)
Blind stitch foot No. 5
Blind hem
for «invisible» hems in medium to heavy cotton, wool
and blended fabrics
Preparation
neaten raw edges
prepare seam as for sewing by hand
place work under the presser foot (see drawing)
Blind hem
Right side of fabric
Fine stitch width adjustment
Guide the folded edge evenly
along the metal guide on the
foot = even depth
Sewing
the needle should just pierce
the edge of the fold (same as
hand sewing)
adjust the stitch width to suit
the fabric
after sewing about 10 cm
(4"), check both sides of
fabric and adjust width again
if necessary
Wrong side
of fabric
Wrong side of fabric
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
TIP
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Selected practical stitches: Darning32
Darning Program No.11
size and type suitable for the fabric selected (see p. 42)
darning thread
up (sewing position)
Reverse pattern foot No. 1
Quick darning of holes or worn areas
Replacement of damaged fibres/threads
Darning with Reverse pattern foot No.1 (auto stitch counter)
insert needle in top left of damaged area
sew the first length and stop the sewing computer
press the securing button: length is programmed
complete the darn; the sewing computer stops automatically
clear the programme by pressing the «clr/del»-button
Large areas:
the darning area can be extended by moving the work
under the foot
Darning program
Reinforcement
use fine fabric or interlining as
a backing
Preparation
stretch fabric into darning
ring* prevents puckering
*The darning ring is available
as special accessory
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
TIP
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Selected practical stitches: Zippers 33
Straight stitch No. 1
size and type suitable for the fabric selected (see p. 42)
cotton or polyester
up (sewing position)
Zipper foot No. 4
far right or far left
Preparation:
baste in zipper
fabric edges should meet over the center of the zipper
Sewing
sew in the zipper, each side from bottom to top
once with needle position far right and once with
needle position far left
the edge of the foot runs along the teeth of the zip
the needle inserts close to the teeth
Zippers
To sew around zipper pull
close zipper and sew up to
about 5 cm (2") away from
the pull
insert needle, raise the
presser foot, open the zipper,
lower the foot and continue
to sew
Seam begin
hold thread firmly when
starting to sew = pull fabric
slightly to the back (fewer
stitches)
Zipper or fabric is thick or
densely woven
use a 90–100 needle for even
stitch formation
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
Needle position:
TIP
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Selected practical stitches: Buttonholes
34
Thread tension
thread the bobbin thread through the finger of the bobbin case
= the bobbin tension is a little tighter
this gives the beads on the right side of the fabric a slightly
rounded appearance
the buttonhole looks more attractive
gimp reinforces buttonholes and enhances their appearance
(pages 36, 37)
Test sewing
always test sew on the fabric and stabilizer you intend to use
sew the buttonhole in the same direction on the fabric (with or
against the grain)
cut the buttonhole open
push the button through and adjust the buttonhole length if
necessary
Corrections
to adjust the bead width = alter the stitch width
any alterations to the stitch length affect both beads (denser or
less dense)
Balance
Any balance alterations to the 6-step manual buttonhole
affects both beads identically because they are sewn in the
same direction.
Manual buttonhole
Select the buttonhole stitch
No. 10; the following appears
on the screen:
1 Buttonhole number
2 Buttonhole symbol (blinks)
3 Presser foot number
1
2
3
4
0
5
0
23451
5.5
1
2
3
Buttonholes are not only practical closures, they can also be
used to decorative effect
Mark the length of
buttonholes
mark the buttonhole length in
the appropriate position
Note:
When all buttonholes have
been sewn, return balance to
the normal setting.
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Selected practical stitches: Buttonholes 35
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
Buttonhole No. 10
size and type suitable for the fabric selected (see p. 42)
cotton or polyester
up (sewing position)
Buttonhole foot No. 3
Preparation
select the buttonhole (stitch No. 10)
screen shows the buttonhole number (10), the presser foot No. 3
and the buttonhole symbol (the first step blinks)
insert the lower thread in the finger of the bobbin
case (see p. 34)
Sewing a manual standard buttonhole
Both beads are sewn in the same direction.
The individual steps blink on the screen.
1 sew the first bead forward, stop the sewing computer
press the reverse button
2 sew reverse straight stitch, stop the sewing computer at the
first stitch (buttonhole begin)
press the reverse button
3 sew the bartack and the second bead, stop the sewing
computer
press the reverse button
4 sew the bartack and the securing stitches
4
3
1
2
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Selected practical stitches: Buttonholes
36
place both ends of the cord
in the grooves on the sole of
the foot and pull them to the
back
lower the presser foot
Sewing
sew the buttonhole in the
usual manner
do not hold the cord tightly
the buttonhole will form over
the cord, covering it
Buttonhole with gimp
Gimp
gimp cord reinforces button-
holes and enhances their
appearance
the loop of the cord should
be at the end of the button-
hole most subject to wear
cord loop = where button is
sewn on
position the work accordingly
Ideal cords
Perle yarn No. 8
strong hand sewing thread
fine crochet yarn
Hooking the cord onto presser
foot No. 3
insert the needle at the
beginning of the buttonhole
raise the presser foot
hook the cord over the centre
pin on the front of the foot
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Selected practical stitches: Buttonholes 37
Buttonhole cutter and block
(special accessory)
place the fabric on the wood
place the cutter in the centre
of the buttonhole
press down on the cutter
with your hand or a hammer
Securing the cord
pull the cord through the
buttonhole
pull cords through to back of
fabric
knot or secure with stitches
Cutting buttonholes open
with the seam ripper
use the back of the seam
ripper to nick the stitches
cut from both ends towards
the middle
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Selected practical stitches: Handlook quilt stitch38
Perfect corners
activate needle-stop down
and then turn work
Monofilament breaks
sew more slowly
reduce upper thread tension
slightly
TIP
Handlook quilt stitch
Quilt stitch No. 13
size and type suitable for the fabric selected (see p. 42)
monofilament
30/2 cotton thread
up (sewing position)
Reverse pattern foot No. 1
Quilt/hand stitch
for all fabrics and all types of work which should have a hand-
sewn look
Sewing test
the bobbin thread must come through to the right side:
1 stitch is visible
1 stitch is invisible (monofilament) = hand stitched effect
Upper thread tension
depending on the fabric = increase the tension (6–9)
Balance
adjust if necessary
Sewing
Quilt stitch can be sewn with any needle position
Stitch:
Needle:
Upper thread:
Bobbin thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
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Selected practical stitches: Overlock seams 39
Knits and jersey
use a new needle to prevent
damaging the loops
Sewing stretch fabrics
if necessary use a stretch
needle (130/705H-S) = needle
point slides between the fibers
Vari-overlock seam
Vari-overlock No. 3
size and type suitable for the fabric selected (see p. 42)
cotton or polyester
up (sewing position)
Overlock foot No. 2 or
Reverse pattern foot No. 1
Overlock foot No. 2 is specially designed for overlock stitches.
The pin on the foot produces more thread in each stitch so that
the elasticity of the seam is maintained.
Closed seam
Stretchy seam in fine, soft knits such as silk jersey and interlock.
Sewing
guide the raw edge along the pin on the overlock foot
the stitch will form over the pin and over the edge of the fabric
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
TIP
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Selected practical stitches: Overlock seams
40
Double overlock No. 8
size and type suitable for the fabric selected (see p. 42)
cotton or polyester
up (sewing position)
Overlock foot No. 2 or
Reverse pattern foot No. 1
Overlock foot No. 2 is specially designed for overlock stitches.
The pin on the foot produces more thread in each stitch so that
the elasticity of the seam is maintained.
Closed seam
overlock seam in loose knits and cross seams in knits and jerseys
Sewing
guide the raw edge along the pin on the overlock foot
the stitch will form over the pin and over the edge of the fabric
Double overlock seam
Knits and jersey
use a new needle to prevent
damaging the loops
Sewing stretch fabrics
if necessary use a stretch
needle (130/705H-S) = needle
point slides between the fibers
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
TIP
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Selected practical stitches: Overlock seams 41
Needle stop down
needle stays in fabric when
you stop to adjust the ribbing
Vari-overlock No. 3
size and type suitable for the fabric selected (see p. 42)
cotton or polyester
up (sewing position)
Overlock foot No. 2 or
Reverse pattern foot No. 1
Overlock foot No. 2 is specially designed for overlock stitches.
The pin on the foot produces more thread in each stitch so that
the elasticity of the seam is maintained.
Ribbing with overlock seam
for all fine cotton, synthetic and mixed fiber jersey
Preparation
fold ribbing in half
pin and baste to opening, right side outside
Sewing
sew Vari-overlock over the raw edge
guide the edge along the pin on the foot
Ribbing with overlock seam
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
TIP
Back view
Front view
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42
Needle 70 80 90 100 110–120
Darning thread
••
Embroidery thread
Mercerised
••
cotton thread
Synthetic thread
••
Thick threads,
synthetic mercerised
••
thread
Buttonhole thread
for decorative
••
seams (cordonnet)
Important facts about sewing computer needles
Sewing computer, needle and thread
Your BERNINA uses needle system 130/705H.
Needle and thread
The most commonly sold needles are nos. 70 –120.
The finer the needle, the lower the number. The table shows
which needle is suitable for which threads.
Needle appropriate for thread
When sewing, the thread
runs in the long groove on the
needle.
Needle inappropriate
for thread
If the needle is too fine, the
groove will be too narrow for
the thread and faulty stitching
or thread breakage can occur.
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43Needles, Threads
Needle and fabric
Condition of needle
The needle must be in perfect condition.
Problems can occur with damaged needles.
bent needle blunt needle hooked needle
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Needles44
Special materials are easier to sew if the appropriate needle is used.
Special needles are available at your BERNINA dealer.
Needle table
Standard
needle
Special
needles
Double needle
Triple needle
Hemstitch
needle
Description
130/705 H
130/705-SES
130/705 H-SUK
130/705 H-S
130/705 H-J
130/705
H-LR + H-LL
130/705 H
ZWI
130/705 H
DRI
130/705 H
HO
Needle point
Normal point,
slightly
rounded
Fine ball point
Medium ball
point
Medium ball
point
Extra fine point
Cutting point
Widths:
1,6 / 2,0 / 2,5
3,0 / 4,0
Widths:
2,5 / 3,0
Width:
2,0
Suitable for
Universal needle for woven, needle synthetic and
natural fibers, e.g. linen, chiffon, batiste, organdie,
wool, satin, decorative stitching, embroidery
Fine knits, especially for synthetic fibers
Heavier knits in synthetic or natural fibers
Special needle for delicate or difficult stretch fabrics
Overalls, heavy linen, denim, canvas. Pierces dense
fabrics easily
Natural and synthetic leather, plastic, coated and
waxed fabric
Visible hems in stretch fabrics, pintucks, decorative
sewing
Decorative sewing
Hemstitch in loose weaves
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45Needle, thread, fabric feed
Feed-dog and fabric feed
Let the fabric feed evenly! Holding back will result in
knots.
Pulling or pushing will result in
gaps.
Feed-dog and stitch length
With each stitch the feed-dog moves forward by one step.
The length of this step is determined by the stitch length selected.
With an extremely short stitch length, the steps are also short.
The fabric moves under the foot quite slowly, even at full sewing
speed. Buttonholes, satin stitch and decorative stitches are all
sewn with a very short stitch length.
Important
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Needle, thread, fabric feed46
Feed-dog and fabric feed with compensating plates
Thick fabrics: feed-dog and sewing corners
The feed-dog can work
normally when the foot is level.
If the foot is at an angle, e.g.
when sewing over thick to thin
or vice-versa, the feed-dog
cannot grip and feed the fabric
and the fabric hangs up.
Uneven layers
To solve this problem, place
one, two or three compensa-
ting plates as required behind
the needle under the presser
foot.
Correct this by placing one
or more compensating
plates as close as possible
to the edge of the fabric.
The gap between the two rows
of teeth is relatively large due
to the width of the stitch plate
hole.
When sewing corners only a
small section of the fabric is
actually on the feed-dog so
that it cannot grip the fabric
well.
To correct the height in front of
the foot, place one or more
plates to the right of the foot
close to the needle. Sew until the
foot is level again and remove
the plates.
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Cleaning the screen and the sewing computer
wipe with a damp cloth
47
Cleaning and maintenance
Cleaning
If the sewing computer is stored in a cold room, it should be brought to a
warm room about one hour before use.
Cleaning
Clean the sewing computer after every use
turn power switch to 0
remove presser foot and needle
open the free-arm cover
unscrew the stitch plate (with screwdriver
TORX)
lift and remove it
clean the area with the brush
replace the stitch plate
Cleaning the hook
turn power switch to 0
remove the bobbin case
push the release lever to the left
push the locking lever to the left and fold
down the hook race cover
remove the hook
clean the hook race with a cloth or brush,
never use a sharp instrument
replace the hook, turning the handwheel if
necessary so that the hook driver is on the left
close the hook race cover and secure with the
locking lever, the locking pin must engage
check by turning the handwheel
insert the bobbin case
Important!
Never use alcohol, petrol, white spirit or any
type of solvent to clean the sewing computer!
Lubricating
This sewing computer is equipped with a
LM (low mass) hook system which requires no
lubrication.
If however you do lubricate any parts, always
run the sewing computer immediately afterwards
on scrap material to avoid soiling your work.
CAUTION
Disconnect plug
from the socket
before cleaning
and servicing
Refer to the safety instruction!
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Cleaning and maintenance48
Sewing light
Replacing the bulb
turn power switch to «0»
loosen the screw
Light bulbs get hot.
Allow to cool down before
removal.
Note:
Use bulb type
12 V 5 W.
W 2.1 x 9.5 d.
remove the bulb
insert the new bulb
replace cover and tighten
screw
Refer to the safety
instruction!
remove the cover by lifting it
slightliy and detaching from
the top
CAUTION
Disconnect plug
from the socket
before cleaning
and servicing
activa 125 (GB) 4.12.2002 14:16 Uhr Seite 48
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49Faults
Trouble shooting
Upper thread breaks
The upper thread tension is
too tight.
The needles are of a poor
quality. Ideally needles should
be purchased from your
BERNINA dealer.
The needle is bent or blunt.
Poor quality, knotted or dried
out thread has been used.
Use the correct spool disc.
Stitch plate or hook tip
damaged. Take your sewing
computer to your BERNINA
dealer.
Lower thread breaks
The lower thread tension is
too tight.
The bobbin is jamming in the
bobbin case. Remove and
replace the bobbin.
The hole in the stitch plate
has been damaged by the
needle. This must be
repolished by an expert.
The needle is blunt or bent.
Skipped stitches
Wrong needles used. Use only
130/705H system.
The needle is blunt, bent or
incorrectly inserted.
Push right to the top when
inserting.
Needle inserted all the way to
the top.
The needle point does not suit
the fabric being sewn. If
necessary use a ball point for
knitted fabrics and cutting
point for hard leather.
Needle breaks
Needle clamp screw loose.
Fabric taken out in front
instead of behind presser foot.
When sewing over thick area,
the fabric was pushed with
the needle still in the fabric.
Poor quality thread, unevenly
wound or knotted.
See pages 4244 for infor-
mation about needles
In most cases you will be able to identify and remedy faults by
checking the following.
Check whether:
the upper and lower threads are threaded correctly
the needle is inserted correctly
the needle size is correct – check the needle/thread table p. 42
the sewing computer is clean – brush out any thread fluff
the hook race is clean
any threads are trapped between the tension discs or under the
bobbin case spring
the bobbin runs smoothly in the case or if remnants or lint need
removing
Faulty stitching
Remnants of thread between
the tension discs.
Remnants of thread under the
bobbin case spring.
Lower thread still threaded in
the bobbin case finger.
Sewing computer threaded
with foot down.
Incorrect threading. Check
upper and lower threads.
Use the correct spool disc.
Sewing computer fails to run
or runs slowly
Plug not properly inserted.
Power switch in off position.
Sewing computer has been
standing in a cold room.
Bobbin winder still switched
on.
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50
A
Accessory box 9
B
Balance 23, 34
Blind hem 31
Bobbin 12
Bobbin case 13
Bobbin thread cutter 13
Bringing up the lower thread 17
Buttonholes 34–37
Buttonhole with gimp 36
Manual buttonhole 34
C
Changing the needle 14
Changing the presser foot 15
Cleaning 47, 48
Compensating plates 46
D
Darning program 32
Details of the sewing computer 4–7
Double overlock seam 40
F
Fabric feed, Needles, Threads 42–46
Feed-dog 18, 45
Foot control 10
Functions 22
#-button
1/2 speed
clr/del (clear/delete)
Needle stop
Reverse sewing
H
Handlook quilt stitch 38
I
Inserting the bobbin 14
K
Knits and jersey 39–41
L
lower thread 17
M
Maintenance 47, 48
Manual buttonhole 34
N
Needle position 21
Needles, Threads, Fabric feed 42–46
O
Overlock seam 41
P
Power cable 10
Presser feet 24
Blind stitch foot No. 5
Buttonhole foot No. 3
Overlock foot No. 2
Reverse pattern foot No. 1
Zipper foot No. 4
Presser foot lifter 11
Q
Quilt stitch 38
Index
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51Index
R
Ribbing with overlock seam 41
Reverse sewing 22
S
Screen shows 20
Seam guide 11
Securing program 29
Selected practical stitches 28–41
Sewing light 48
Sewing computer needles 42
Spool pin 15
Standard accessories 8
Standard buttonhole 35
Stitch length 21
Stitch plate 18
Stitch width 21
Stitch selection 21
Straight stitch 28
Stretch fabrics 39, 40, 41
Supplementary spool pin 15
T
Threads, Fabric feed, Needles 42–46
Thread cutter 12, 17
Thread tension 19
Threading the upper thread 16
Trouble shooting 49
U
Upper thread 16
V
Vari-overlock seam 39
W
Winding the bobbin 12
Z
Zig-Zag stitch 30
Zippers 33
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Contents52
4 Details
10 Setting up the sewing computer
20 Operating instructions
24 Presser feet
25 Stitches
Selected practical stitches:
28 Straight stitch
29 Securing program
30 Zig-zag stitch
31 Blind hem
32 Darning program
33 Zippers
34 Buttonholes
38 Handlook quilt stitch
39 Overlock
42 Needle, Thread, Fabric Feed
47 Cleaning, Maintenance, Troubleshooting
50 Index
02/01 GB
-
USA 030 595 50 04
Impressum
Typesetting, Layout, DTP: Silvia Bartholdi
Graphics: Müller-Melzer ID, Kreuzlingen
© copyright 2001 by Fritz Gegauf AG, Steckborn
activa 125 (GB) 4.12.2002 14:16 Uhr Seite 52
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3

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