453311

Bernina 215 Handleiding

19
Verklein
Vergroot
Pagina terug
1/38
Pagina verder
BERNINA 215
www.ber nina.com
In choosing BERNINA, you are assured of years of rewarding sewing. For over 100 years my family
has concentrated on providing complete satisfaction to our customers. And it is my personal wish to
continue this tradition of offering you Swiss precision engineering combined with state of the art
technology and an after sales service second to none.
The new BERNINA 215 are characterized by a youthful appeal which is combined with a range of
added value features to give you, dear Customer, more sewing pleasure than ever before. Enjoy
modern, creative sewing with BERNINA: our wide range of accessories as well as our sewing publica-
tions brimming with imaginative ideas and practical tips all add to the joy of sewing BERNINA style.
Any questions you have will be dealt with courteously and efficiently by our highly trained BERNINA
dealers, who will also be glad to service your sewing computer for you.
www.bernina.com
BERNINA International AG • CH-8266 Steckborn/Switzerland
”Welcome to
the BERNINA
family”
H.P. Ueltschi
Owner
2
IMPORTANT SAFETY
INSTRUCTIONS
the electrical outlet immediately after using
and before cleaning.
3. LED radiation. Do not view directly with
optical instruments. LED class 1M
WARNING
To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock
or injury to persons:
1. Use the sewing computer only for purposes
as described in this manual. Use only
attachments/accessory recommended by the
manufacturer as contained in this manual.
2. Do not allow the sewing computer to be
used as a toy. Close attention is necessary
when this sewing computer is used by or
near children and infirm persons. This sewing
computer is not intended for use by persons
(including children) with reduced physical,
sensory or mental capabilities, or lack of
experience and knowledge, unless they have
been given supervision or instruction
concerning use of the sewing computer by a
person responsible for their safety. Children
must be kept under supervision to ensure
When using an electrical appliance, basic safety
precautions should always be followed,
including the following:
Read all instructions before using this sewing
computer.
When the sewing computer is not in use, it
should be disconnected from the electricity
supply by removing the plug from the outlet.
DANGER
To reduce the risk of electrical shock:
1. The sewing computer should never be left
unattended when plugged in.
2. Always unplug the sewing computer from
Safety instructions
SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS
3 Safety instructions
10. Do not use bent needles.
11. Always use the BERNINA original stitch plate.
The wrong stitch plate can cause needle
breakage.
12. To disconnect, turn power switch to «0»
(off), then remove the plug from the outlet.
Do not unplug by pulling the cord, instead
grasp the plug to pull it from the outlet.
13. Turn power switch to «0» (off) when making
any adjustments in the needle area, such as
changing the needle or the presser foot, etc.
14. Always unplug the sewing computer from
the electrical outlet when carrying out
cleaning or maintenance work or any other
user servicing adjustments mentioned in this
manual.
15. This sewing computer is provided with
double insulation (except USA and Canada).
Use only genuine replacement parts. Please
note the advice on the servicing of double-
insulated products.
that they do not play with the sewing
computer.
3. Never operate this sewing computer if:
- it has a damaged cord or plug
- it is not working properly
- it has been dropped or damaged
- it has fallen into water
Take the sewing computer to the nearest
authorized BERNINA dealer for examination,
repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment.
4. Never operate the sewing computer with
any air vents blocked. Keep ventilation
openings of the sewing computer free from
lint, dust and/or fabric bits.
5. Keep fingers away from all moving parts.
Special care is required in the needle area of
the sewing computer.
6. Never drop or insert any objects into any
opening on the sewing computer.
7. Do not use the sewing computer outdoors.
8. Do not operate the sewing computer where
aerosol products (spray) or oxygen is being
administered.
9 . Do not pull or push the fabric while
stitching. This may deflect the needle,
causing it to break.
4 Safety instructions
SERVICING DOUBLE
INSULATED PRODUCTS
In a double-insulated product, two systems of
insulation are provided instead of grounding. No
grounding means is provided on a double-insu
-
lated product nor should a means for grounded
be added to the product. Servicing a double-
insulated product requires extreme care and
knowledge of the system and should only be
done by qualified service personnel.
Replacement parts for a double-insulated pro
-
duct must be identical to the original parts in
the product.
A double insulated product is marked with the
words: «Double-Insulation» or «double-
insulated».
The symbol
may also be marked on the
product.
DISCLAIMER
No liability will be assumed for any possible
damage which arises from misuse of this sewing
computer.
This sewing computer is intended for household
use only. This sewing computer complies with
the European Directive 2004/108/EC relating to
Electromagnetic Compatibility (EMC).
SAVE THESE
INSTRUCTIONS!
Note:
Please find the latest version
of your instruction manual at
www.bernina.com
5 Safety instructions - Contents
Important safety Instructions 2
Details of the sewing computer 6
Standard Accessories 8
Feet selection 9
Optional Accessories 10
Setting up the sewing computer 12
Operating instructions 20
Stitch overview 23
Selected practical stitches 24
Sewing Needles 31
Maintenance 33
Troubleshooting 34
Index 35
Environmental Protection
BERNINA is committed to the
protection of the environment.
We strive to minimize the
environmental impact of our
products by continuously improving
product design and our technology
of manufacturing.
At end of life please dispose this
product in an environmentally
responsible way according to the
national directive. Do not throw
away this product with your
household waste. In case of doubt,
please contact your dealer.
Details of the sewing computer
6
Details of the sewing computer
Front view
Right end
10
1
2
5
6
8
11
12
9
14
17
18
19
20
15 16
22
21
23
3
4
13
7
13 12
27
28
26
25
23
24
30
29
7 Details of the sewing computer
1 Bobbin cover
2 Stitch plate
3 Attachment base for
special accessories
4 Sewing table socket
5 Presser foot shaft
6 Needle clamp with fixation
screw
7 Needle Threader
8 Thread guide
9 Reverse button
10 Thread take up cover
11 Thread path
12 Bobbin pre-tension
13 Thread tension adjustment
14 LCD display
15 Needle stop up/down
16 1/2 motor speed
17 Bobbin winder
18 Stitch width button
19 Needle position button
20 Stitch length button
21 clr/del-button
22 Stitch selection buttons
23 Handwheel
24 Balance adjustment
25 Power switch on/off
26 Power plug socket
27 Drop feed-dog
28 Foot control socket
29 Spool pin (vertical,
collapsible)
30 Carrying handle
31 Horizontal spool pin
32 Rear thread guide
33 Accessory box connection
34 Presser foot lifter (manual)
35 Thread cutter
Back view
31
34
35
33
32
4
3
30
7
29
Standard Accessories
8
Accessories
•
Fabric cover
•
Accessory case
•
2 bobbins (one of them in the
bobbin case)
•
Presser feet shaft with 5 soles
•
Selection of 130/705H needles
•
Seam ripper
•
Lint brush
•
3 spool discs
•
Foam pad
•
Oiler
•
Foot control
•
Power cable
•
Angular Torx button
•
Warranty card
The foot control regulates the
sewing speed
Sewing speed is adjusted by
applying more or less pressure
to the foot control.
Important! (USA/Canada only)
Use only foot controller type
SR-1 with sewing computer
B215.
Foot control
Self storing cord
•
wind the cord on the reel
•
insert the plug into the
groove provided
When sewing
•
unwind the cableThe power cable
•
plug A into sewing computer
•
plug B into wall socket
Foot control cable
•
plug C into sewing computer
Power switch (D)
1 the computer is switched on
0 the computer is switched off
The sewing light is switched on
and off with the power switch.
Power cable
A
C
B
Important! (USA/Canada only)
This sewing computer has a
po la rized plug (one blade wider
than the other). To re duce the
risk of electric shock, this plug
is intended to fit in a polarized
outlet only one way. If the plug
D
does not fit fully in the outlet,
reverse the plug. If it still does
not fit, contact a qualified elec-
trican to install the proper out-
let. Do not modify the plug in
any way.
Refer to the safety
instruction!
9 Feet selection
Standard snap-on soles
2
Overlock sole
Overlock seams,
hems, over-
sewing edges,
narrow satin
stitches
1
Reverse pat-
tern sole
for practical
and decorative
stitches
4
Zipper sole
for sewing in
zippers
3
Buttonhole
sole
for manual
buttonholes
5
Blind stitch sole
Blind hems, edge
stitching
Presser foot
shaft
for snap-on
soles
Note that all presser feet are available as stable feet as well.
10 Optional accessories
Sewing table
To attach
•
raise the needle and presser
foot
•
place the table over the free
arm and press firmly so that it
engages on the fixing cam
To remove
•
raise the needle and presser
foot
•
pull the table out of the fixing
cam
•
pull in a horizontal position to
the left
Scale of sewing table
•
«0» corresponds to the centre
needle position
Seam guide for sewing table
•
insert into the groove (under-
side of table) from the right or
left
•
it can be freely adjust over the
whole width of the table
Note: Remove the presser
foot or the presser foot shaft
when attaching the seam
guide!
We recommend the use of the
BERNINA Lens Set for more
comfort when sewing.
Lens Set
Sewing speed
•
control the sewing speed by
depressing the foot control
•
raise or lower the needle by
tapping on the foot control
with your heel
Foot Control
Optional accessories 11
Start-stop-unit
With the Start-stop-unit (SSU)
the start-stop-function can be
controlled by hand.
•
press start-stop-button A =
stitching starts
•
with the speed regulator B
the sewing speed can be
regulated by hand
•
to interrupt or stop sewing =
press start-stop-button A
again
Note:
If the foot control is connected
with the sewing computer, the
Start-stop-unit is deactivated.
A
B
The LED sewing light illumina-
tes the sewing area and has a
long product life.
Attention:
Please note that a defective
sewing light must ONLY be
replaced by an authorized
technician.
The sewing computer must be
taken to an authorized
BERNINA dealer!
Please refer to the
safety instructions!
LED Sewing Light
Setting up the sewing computer 12
Winding the bobbin
•
turn power switch on
•
place empty bobbin on
spindle
•
following the direction of the arrow take thread through the rear
guide and round the pre-tension stud
•
wind the thread two to three times around the empty bobbin
and cut off any excess thread on the thread cutter
•
press the engaging lever against the bobbin
•
press the foot control
•
the motor will stop automatically when the bobbin is full
•
remove the bobbin
Thread cutter
•
cut the thread on the thread
cutter
Winding the bobbin
Note:
When winding the bobbin
on the vertical spool holder
(p. 15), it may be necessary to
adjust the speed.
13 Setting up the sewing computer
To remove the bobbin case
•
raise the needle
•
turn power switch to «0»
•
open the bobbin cover
•
grasp the latch of the bobbin
case
•
remove case
To insert the bobbin case
•
hold the bobbin case latch
•
the finger on the case should
point upwards
•
insert so that it clicks into
place
Bobbin thread cutter
•
insert the bobbin case
•
take the thread over cutter A
•
thread is cut
•
close the bobbin cover
Note:
The bobbin thread does not
have to be brought up as
the loose end is just the right
length to start sewing.
Please refer to the
safety instruction!
A
Bobbin case
Setting up the sewing computer
14
Inserting the bobbin
... it lies in the T-shaped slit at
the end of the spring.
The bobbin must turn clock-
wise when thread is pulled.
Insert the bobbin
Insert the bobbin so that the
thread runs clockwise.
Pull the thread counter clock-
wise into the slot.
Pull the thread to the left under
the spring until ...
Removing the needle
•
raise the needle
•
turn power switch to «0»
•
lower the presser foot
•
loosen the needle clamp screw
•
pull the needle down to remove
Inserting the needle
•
flat side of needle to the back
•
insert the needle as far as it will go
•
tighten the needle clamp screw
Changing the needle
Please refer to the
safety instruction!
15 Setting up the sewing computer
Supplementary spool pin
A
Changing the presser foot sole
Changing the presser foot
sole
•
raise the needle and the
presser foot shaft
•
turn power switch to «0»
•
press the button on the shaft
to release the sole
Attaching the presser foot
sole
•
place the presser foot sole
under the shaft so that the
peg sits under the opening of
the shaft
•
lower the presser foot lifter
and the foot sole will click
into position
Please refer to the
safety instruction!
Collapsible vertical spool pin
•
found on the back of the sewing computer behind the
handwheel
•
essential aid for sewing with more than one thread, i.e. double
needle work
•
raise the pin until it clicks into its vertical position
•
when using large reels, add the foam pad A for stability
Setting up the sewing computer
16
Threading the upper thread
Attaching the thread spool
•
raise the needle and the presser foot
•
switch the power off
•
attach the foam pad
•
place spool on pin (thread unwinds clockwise)
•
attach the appropriate spool disc - diameter of spool disc is disc
size. There must be no clearance between the disc and the spool
•
take thread through rear guide A
•
then into slit of upper thread tension
•
pull thread down to the right of the take-up cover to B
•
take thread up to the left of the cover to C in the direction of
the arrow, placing it in the take-up level
•
take thread down and through guides D and E
Please refer to the
safety instruction!
A
C
D
E
B
17 Setting up the sewing computer
Needle Threader
B
A
Thread in hook
•
raise the needle
•
lower the presser foot
•
lay the thread behind hook B
and hold lightly
Lever down
•
press lever A down and simul-
taneously guide the thread
around hook B to the right to
the needle
Thread in front of needle
•
put the thread from the front
into the guide until it catches
in the hook
•
let go of lever A and thread
Thread cutter
Thread cutter on head frame
•
pull both threads from front
to back over the cutter
•
the threads release as soon as
the first stitch is sewn
Setting up the sewing computer
18
Stitch plate
Feed-dog and fabric feed
Button flush with housing =
sewing position
Button depressed =
feed-dog is lowered
•
for free-hand sewing or dar-
ning
Stitch plate markings
•
the stitch plate is marked with vertical, horizontal and diagonal
lines in mm and inches
•
the lines help to guide the fabric for sewing seams and precise
topstitching, etc.
•
the horizontal markings are helpful for sewing corners and but-
tonholes, etc.
•
the diagonal markings are useful for quilting
•
the vertical measurements correspond to the distance between
the needle and the line
•
needle insertion point is position «0» (center needle position)
•
the measurements are marked to the right and left, measuring
from the center needle position
Note: To change the stitch plate see page 33
Feed-dog and stitch length
With each stitch the feed-dog moves forward by one step.
The length of this step is determined by the stitch length selected.
With an extremely short stitch length, the steps are also short.
The fabric moves under the foot quite slow ly, even at full sewing
speed. Buttonholes are sewn with a very short stitch length.
19 Setting up the sewing computer
A
Thread tension
The basic setting
•
is indicated when the red line on the tension
adjustment wheel is in line with the marking A
•
the tension does not need adjusting for normal
sewing work
•
for special sewing work, the tension can be
adjusted to suit the fabric
Perfect stitch formation
•
the stitch formation is in the fabric
Upper thread tension too tight
•
the lower thread is pulled more to the right
side of the fabric
•
to reduce the upper thread tension turn tension
adjustment wheel to 3–1
Upper thread tension too loose
•
the upper thread is pulled more to the wrong
side of the fabric
•
to increase the upper thread tension turn
tension adjustment wheel to 5–10
The tension is factory set for the best results.
Metrosene 100/2 (Arova Mettler, Switzerland)
is used to set both the upper and lower thread
tension.
If other sewing or embroidery threads are used,
the tension may need adjusting to suit the fabric
and chosen stitch.
For example:
Tension
Metallic thread approx. 3
Monofilament approx. 2–4
Operating instructions 20
Balance
Your sewing computer has
been tested and factory set
using a double layer of
cretonne fabric and Metrosene
100/2 threads (Arova Mettler,
Switzerland).
Normal position Denser stitch
formation
(shorter stitch
length)
Finer stitch for-
mation
(longer stitch
length)
Different fabrics, threads and
stabilizers can naturally affect
the stitch balance so that they
are sewn too close together or
not close enough.
Note:
If the balance has been
adjusted, return it to the
normal setting once sewing is
completed.
This can be remedied with
Balance to suit the fabric and
produce perfect results.
Applications:
Practical stitches, e.g.
Honeycomb stitch on jersey,
buttonholes, etc.
21 Operating instructions
Stitch width
•
left button = narrow the stitch width
•
right button = widen the stitch width
•
the basic settings of the chosen stitch
blink constantly
Needle position
•
left button = needle to the left
•
right button = needle to the right
Stitch length
•
left button = shorten the stitch length
•
right button = increase the stitch length
Stitch selection
•
stitches 1–11:
touch the number of your
choice; stitch number and
basic width and length set-
tings appear on the LCD dis-
play
0
23451
5.5
1
2
3
4
5
0
1
2
3
4
5
6
The LCD display shows
1 stitch width, basic setting blinks constantly
2 stitch length, basic setting blinks constantly
3 needle position (9 positions)
4 needle stop up/down
5 stitch number
6 recommended foot for selected stitch
7 satin stitch; dense, short zig-zag stitch
7
Altered Stitch Memory
•
any stitch length or width alterations will
be saved automatically
For example:
•
sew altered stitch, e.g. zig-zag
•
select another stitch, e.g. straight stitch
•
return to zig-zag, your alterations are
still active
LCD Display
Buttons
Operating instructions
22
Reverse sewing
quick reverse:
•
press button
•
Sewing computer sews reverse until button is
released (max. stitch length 3 mm)
Applications:
•
programming buttonholes
•
programming darning program
•
manual securing (seam begin and end)
continous reverse:
•
press button quickly twice
•
the sewing computer sews the chosen stitch
in reverse
•
press button once to cancel
1/2 motor speed
•
press the button and the sewing speed will be
halved
•
press the button again to revert to full speed
Functions
Needle stop
•
basic setting needle stop up
•
press button
•
arrow points down = sewing computer stops
with needle down
•
press button again
•
arrow points up = sewing computer stops
with needle up
Note:
Press button a bit longer = the needle will go
automatically up or down.
clr/del (clear/delete)
•
press button = reverts to basic settings
•
other selected functions are cleared
Exceptions:
•
needle stop down
•
1/2 motor speed
•
when buttonhole is selected, the first step
blinks on the display
Functions are ...
activated when the symbol appears on the LCD display.
deactivated when the symbol no longer appears on the LCD display.
23 Stitch overview
Stitch overview
1 Straight stitch
All non-stretch fabrics. All Stitch
work
2 Zig-zag stitch
Most fabric types; all simple
zig-zag such as oversewing fine
fabrics. Sewing on elastic and
lace
3 Running stitch
Most types of fabric. Mending,
patching, reinforcing seams
5 Blind stitch
Most types of fabric; blind hems,
shell edging on soft jerseys and
fine fabrics, decorative seams
6 Double overlock stitch
All types of knit; Overlock =
sew and neaten in one
operation
7 Stretch overlock stitch
Mediumweight knits, toweling
and firm wovens. Overlock
seams, flat joining seams
8 Super stretch stitch
Open seam for all super-stretch
fabrics
9 Honeycomb stitch
Most types of interlock and
smooth fabrics; visible seams
and hems
10 Darning program
Automatic darning for fine and
medium weight fabrics
11 Buttonhole
Fine to medium weight woven
fabrics; blouses, shirts, trousers,
bedlinens, etc.
4 Triple straight and triple
zig-zag stitch
Reinforced seams in tough,
heavy fabrics
Selected practical stitches 24
Straight stitch No. 1
Use reverse pattern sole No. 1 or
blindstitch sole No. 5
Outer Edges
•
needle position far left for outer edge
•
place finished or folded edge of fabric against the
left side of the guide on the sole No. 5
•
select needle position left at desired distance from
the edge
Hem Edges
•
needle position far right for inner edge (hem edges)
•
place edge of fold (inside upper edge of hem) against
the right side of the guide on the sole No. 5
•
set to right needle position to stitch along upper
edge
Zig-zag stitch No. 2
Use reverse pattern sole No. 1
Zig-zag stitch
•
for all fabrics
•
for neatening edges
•
for decorative work
Satin stitch
•
dense (shorter) zig-zag stitch = filled in zig-zag
•
adjust stitch width as you sew for new effects
Oversewing edges
•
guide edge of fabric under the center of the presser
foot
•
needle goes into fabric on one strike and over the
edge of the fabric on the next stroke
•
do not select too wide a width or too long a stitch –
the edge should lie flat and not roll
•
use darning thread for fine fabrics
A Fabric edges finished with
zig-zag stitch
B Zig-zag stitch with altered
stitch length
C Zig-zag stitch with altered
stitch width
25 Selected practical stitches
Running stitch No. 3
Use reverse pattern sole No. 1
Wide Elastic
•
for edges on sportswear and lingerie
Preparation
•
cut elastic to length desired
•
divide fabric edge and elastic into 4 equal sections
and mark
•
pin elastic to raw edge, matching up marks
Sewing
•
stretch the elastic to fit the raw edge while sewing
•
trim excess fabric close to the stitching
Triple straight stitch No. 4
Use reverse pattern sole No. 1
Open Seam
•
durable seam for firm and densely woven fabrics
such as denim and corduroy
•
reinforced seam for garment areas subject to hard
wear
Decorative top stitch
•
lengthen out stitch and use as a decorative top stitch
with denim
Note:
For best results when topstitching with the triple
stitch, set the length to 4.
Selected practical stitches
26
Use blind stitch sole No. 5
For «invisible» hems in medium to heavy cotton, wool and
blended fabrics.
Preparation
•
neaten raw edges
•
prepare seam as for sewing by hand
•
place work under the presser foot (see drawing)
Blind stitch No. 5
2
Use reverse pattern sole No. 1 or
overlock sole No. 2
Closed seam
Overlock seam in loose knits and cross seams in knits and
jerseys.
Double overlock stitch No. 6
Sewing
•
the needle should just pierce
the edge of the fold (same as
hand sewing)
•
adjust the stitch width to suit
the fabric
•
after sewing about 10 cm
(4"), check both sides of
fabric and adjust width again
if necessary
Sewing
•
guide the raw edge along the pin on
the overlock sole or the reverse pattern
sole
•
the stitch will form over the pin and
over the edge of the fabric
5
Right side of fabric
Wrong side
of fabric
Wrong side
of fabric
27 Selected practical stitches
Stretch overlock stitch No. 7
Use reverse pattern sole No. 1
Closed Seam
•
overlock seam in coarse or loose knits
Sewing
•
sew stretch overlock along the fabric edge
•
the stitch should sew over the edge of the fabric on
the right sewing of the needle
Super stretch stitch No. 8
Use reverse pattern sole No. 1
Open Seam
•
very elastic seam for knit fabrics
•
ideal for sports and leisure wear
•
seam lies flat and is not bulky
When using heavyweight fabrics (rolling edges) sew
3/8’’ (1cm) in from the edge and cut off seam
allowance.
Selected practical stitches
28
Use reverse pattern sole No. 1
Ribbing with visible seam
•
for all cotton, wool, synthetic and mixed fiber jersey
Preparation
press 1 cm (3/8") to wrong side
Sewing
•
sew from the right at a foot's width from the edge
•
trim surplus fabric (wrong side)
•
adjust balance if necessary
Honeycomb stitch No. 9
open out stitch
Note:
After sewing
return balance to
the normal set-
ting!
bring stitch together
Balance/corrections
4
Use zipper sole No. 4
Preparation
•
baste in zipper
•
fabric edges should meet over the center of the zipper
•
needle position far right or far left
Zippers with Straight stitch No. 1
Sewing
•
sew in the zipper, each side from bot-
tom to top
•
once with needle position far right and
once with needle position far left
•
the edge of the foot runs along the
teeth of the zipper
•
the needle inserts close to the teeth
29 Selected practical stitches
Use reverse pattern sole No. 1
Darning with Reverse pattern sole No. 1 (auto stitch
counter)
•
insert needle in top left of damaged area
•
sew the first length and stop the sewing computer
•
press the quick reverse button: length is programmed
•
complete the darn; the sewing computer stops auto-
matically
•
clear the programme by pressing the «clr/del»-button
Large areas:
•
the darning area can be extended by moving the
work under the foot
Darning program, stitch No. 10
Use buttonhole sole No. 3
Preparation
•
select buttonhole
•
the LCD display shows the buttonhole number, presser foot
sole No. 3 and the buttonhole symbol (the first step blinks
on the display)
•
insert the lower thread in the finger of the bobbin case =
thread tension is a little higher
•
mark the buttonhole length in the appropriate position
Test sewing
•
test on the fabric and stabilizer you intend to use
•
sew buttonholes in the same grain direction (with or
against)
•
cut the buttonhole open
•
push the button through and adjust length if necessary
Buttonhole, stitch No. 11
Manual buttonholes are particularly suitable for single
buttonholes, for repairing existing buttonholes or to
decorative effect. Manual buttonholes cannot be saved.
Selected practical stitches
30
Note:
When all buttonholes have
been sewn, return balance to
the normal setting!
Corrections
To adjust the bead width
•
alter the stitch width
•
altered stitch widths can be deleted by pressing
the «clr/del»-button
Altering the stitch length
•
any alterations to the stitch length affect both
beads (denser or less dense)
•
altered stitch length can be deleted by pressing
the «clr/del»-button
Balance for manual
buttonholes
•
any balance alterations to the
manual buttonholes affects
both beads identically because
they are sewn in the same
direction
1 sew the first bead forward, stop the sewing computer
•
press the reverse button
2 sew reverse straight stitch, stop the sewing computer at the first
stitch (buttonhole begin)
•
press the reverse button
3 sew the bartack and the second bead, stop the sewing computer
•
press the reverse button
4 sew the bartack and the securing stitches
Individual steps can be eliminated or repeated.
4
3
1
2
Sewing a manual standard buttonhole
Both beads are sewn in the same direction.
The individual steps blink on the LCD display.
31 Sewing needles
Needle 70 80 90 100 110–120
Darning thread • •
Mercerised •
•
cotton thread
Synthetic thread •
•
Thick threads,
synthetic mercerised •
•
thread
Buttonhole thread
for decorative •
•
seams (cordonnet)
Important facts about sewing needles
Your BERNINA uses needle system 130/705H.
Needle and thread
The most commonly sold needles are nos. 70 –120.
The finer the needle, the lower the number. The table
shows which needle is suitable for which threads.
Needle appropriate
for thread
When sewing, the thread
runs in the long groove on
the needle.
Needle inappropriate
for thread
If the needle is too fine, the
groove will be too narrow for
the thread and faulty stitching
or thread breakage can occur.
Needle and fabric
Condition of needle
The needle must be in perfect
condition. Problems can occur
with damaged needles.
bent needle
blunt needle
hooked needle
Sewing needles 32
Special materials are easier to sew if the appropriate needle is used.
Special needles are available at your BERNINA dealer.
Type of needle
Universal
130/705 H
Jersey/Stretch
130/705 H-S
130/705 H-SES
130/705 H-SUK
Jeans
130/705 H-J
Leather
130/705 H-LL
130/705 H-LR
Double needle
130/705 H-ZWI
Triple needle
130/705 H-DRI
Wing needle
130/705 HO
Model
Normal point, slightly rounded
Ball point
Very fine point
Cutting point
Needle distance: 1.0 / 1.6 / 2.0 /
2.5 / 3.0 / 4.0
Needle distance: 3.0
Wing needle (wing)
Needle size
60–100
70–90
80–110
90–100
70–100
80
100–120
Suitable for
For nearly all natural and synthetic fabrics (woven and knitted)
Jersey, stretch fabrics
Heavyweight fabrics such as denim, canvas, overalls
Natural and synthetic leather and plastic
Visible hems in stretch fabrics, pintucks, decorative sewing
Decorative sewing
Hemstitch
33 Maintenance
Cleaning the LCD display and the sewing
computer
•
wipe with a damp cloth
Cleaning
If the sewing computer is stored in a cold room, it should be
brought to a warm room about one hour before use.
Clean the sewing computer after every use
•
turn power switch to «0» (off) and pull out
plug from electric outlet
•
remove presser foot and needle
•
open the free-arm cover
•
press the stitch plate down at the back right
corner, lift and remove
•
clean the area with the lint brush
•
replace the stitch plate
Cleaning the hook
•
turn power switch to «0» (off) and pull out
plug from electric outlet
•
remove the bobbin case
•
push the release lever to the left
•
push the locking lever to the left and fold
down the hook race cover
•
remove the hook
•
clean the hook race with a cloth or brush,
never use a sharp instrument
•
replace the hook, turning the handwheel if
necessary so that the hook driver is on the left
•
close the hook race cover and secure with the
locking lever, the locking pin must engage
•
check by turning the handwheel
•
insert the bobbin case
Important!
Never use alcohol, petrol, white spirit or any
type of solvent to clean the sewing computer!
Lubricating
•
squeeze 1–2 drops of oil into the hook race
•
run the machine for a short time without
thread to prevent oil soiling your work
Please refer to the safety instruction!
CAUTION
Disconnect plug
from the socket
before cleaning
and servicing
Trouble shooting 34
Trouble shooting
Upper thread breaks
•
The upper thread tension
is too tight.
•
The needles are of a poor
quality. Ideally needles should
be purchased from your
BERNINA dealer.
•
The needle is bent or blunt.
•
Poor quality, knotted or dried
out thread has been used.
•
Use the correct spool disc.
•
Stitch plate or hook tip
damaged. Take your sewing
computer to your BERNINA
dealer.
Lower thread breaks
•
The lower thread tension is
too tight.
•
The bobbin is jamming in
the bobbin case. Remove and
replace the bobbin.
•
The hole in the stitch plate
has been damaged by the
needle. This must be
repolished by an expert.
•
The needle is blunt or bent.
Skipped stitches
•
Wrong needles used. Use only
130/705H system.
•
The needle is blunt, bent or
incorrectly inserted.
•
Push right to the top when
inserting.
•
Needle inserted all the way
to the top.
•
The needle point does not
suit the fabric being sewn.
If necessary use a ball point
for knitted fabrics and
cutting point for hard leather.
Needle breaks
•
Needle clamp screw loose.
•
Fabric taken out in front
instead of behind presser foot.
•
When sewing over thick area,
the fabric was pushed with
the needle still in the fabric.
•
Poor quality thread, unevenly
wound or knotted.
•
See pages 31 and 32 for
infor mation about needles.
In most cases you will be able to identify and remedy faults
by checking the following.
Check whether:
•
the upper and lower threads are threaded correctly
•
the needle is inserted correctly
•
the needle size is correct – check the needle/thread table p. 31
•
the sewing computer is clean – brush out any thread fluff
•
the hook race is clean
•
any threads are trapped between the tension discs or under the
bobbin case spring
•
the bobbin runs smoothly in the case or if remnants or lint need
removing
Faulty stitching
•
Remnants of thread between
the tension discs.
•
Remnants of thread under
the bobbin case spring.
•
Lower thread still threaded in
the bobbin case finger.
•
Sewing computer threaded
with foot down.
•
Incorrect threading. Check
upper and lower threads.
•
Use the correct spool disc.
Sewing computer fails to run
or runs slowly
•
Plug not properly inserted.
•
Power switch in off position.
•
Sewing computer has been
standing in a cold room.
•
Bobbin winder still switched
on.
35 Index
T
Thread cutter 12, 13, 17
Thread tension 19
Threading 16
Threads 31
Triple straight stitch 23, 25
Trouble shooting 34
U
Upper thread 16
W
Winding the bobbin 12
Z
Zig-zag stitch 23, 24
Zippers 28
A
Accessories 8–11
Accessory case 8
Altered stitch memory 21
B
Balance 20, 28, 30
Blind stitch 23, 26
Bobbin 12–14
Bobbin case 13
Bobbin thread cutter 12, 13
Buttonhole 29, 30
C
Changing the presser
foot sole 15
Changing the needle 14
Cleaning 33
Clear / Delete 22
D
Darning program 23, 29
Delete / Clear 22
Details of the sewing
computer 6–7
Display 21
Double overlock stitch 23, 26
F
Fabric cover 8
Fabric feed 18
Feed-dog 18
Foot control 8, 10
H
Honeycomb stitch 23, 28
I
Inserting the bobbin 14
L
LCD display 21
Lens Set 10
M
Maintenance 33
1/2 Motor speed 22
N
Needle position 21
Needle stop 22
Needle Threader 17
Needle up/down 22
Needles 31, 32
O
Optional accessories 10, 11
P
Power cable 8
R
Reverse sewing 22
Running stitch 23, 25
S
Seam guide 10
Sewing light 11
Sewing table 10
Snap-on soles 9
Spool pin 15
Standard accessories 8, 9
Start-stop-unit 11
Stitch length/width 21
Stitch overview 23
Stitch plate 18
Stitch selection 21
Straight stitch 23, 24, 28
Stretch overlock stitch 23, 27
Super stretch stitch 23, 27
Supplementary spool pin 15
Index
2014/02 EN 033644.51.04
Imprint
Typesetting, Layout, DTP: Silvia Bartholdi
Graphics: Müller-Melzer ID, Kreuzlingen
© copyright 2010
BERNINA International AG, Steckborn
All rights reserved
For technical and product improvement reasons, the sewing computer's
features, parts and accessory are subject to unannounced changes and
alterations at any time. The accessory included can differ from country to
country.
36 Imprint
… 19 …

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