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Troubleshooting
3 Gear(s) stuck on shaft. Most often caused by a lack of lubrication
or excessive wear in transmission bearings and bushings. Overhaul the
transmission (Chapter 2).
4 Shift cam binding. Caused by lubrication failure or excessive
wear. Replace the cam and bearing (Chapter 2).
5 Shift lever return spring weak or broken (Chapter 2).
6 Shift lever broken. Splines stripped out of lever or shaft, caused
by allowing the lever to get loose or from dropping the machine.
Replace necessary parts (Chapter 2).
7 Shift mechanism pawl broken or worn. Full engagement and
rotary movement of shift drum results. Replace shaft assembly
(Chapter 2).
8 Pawl spring broken. Allows pawl to float, causing sporadic shift
operation. Replace spring (Chapter 2).
29 Jumps out of gear
1 Shift fork(s) worn. Overhaul the transmission (Chapter 2).
2 Gear groove(s) worn. Overhaul the transmission (Chapter 2).
3 Gear dogs or dog slots worn or damaged. The gears should be
inspected and replaced. No attempt should be made to service the
worn parts.
30 Overshifts
1 Pawl spring weak or broken (Chapter 2).
2 Shift drum stopper lever not functioning (Chapter 2).
Abnormal engine noise
31 Knocking or pinging
1 Carbon build-up in combustion chamber. Use of a fuel additive
that will dissolve the adhesive bonding the carbon particles to the
piston crown and chamber is the easiest way to remove the build-up.
Otherwise, the cylinder head will have to be removed and
decarbonized (Chapter 2).
2 Incorrect or poor quality fuel. Old or improper fuel can cause
detonation. This causes the pistons to rattle, thus the knocking or
pinging sound. Drain the old fuel and always use the recommended
grade fuel (Chapter 1).
3 Spark plug heat range incorrect. Uncontrolled detonation
indicates that the plug heat range is too hot. The plug in effect
becomes a glow plug, raising cylinder temperatures. Install the proper
heat range plug (Chapter 1).
4 Improper air/fuel mixture. This will cause the cylinders to run hot
and lead to detonationrClogged jets or an air leak can cause this
imbalance. See Chapter 3.
32 Piston slap or rattling
1 Cylinder-to-piston clearance excessive. Caused by improper
assembly. Inspect and overhaul top end parts (Chapter 2).
2 Connecting rod bent. Caused by over-revving, trying to start a
badly flooded engine or from ingesting a foreign object into the
combustion chamber. Replace the damaged parts (Chapter 2).
3 Piston pin or piston pin bore worn or seized from wear or lack of
lubrication. Replace damaged parts (Chapter 2).
4 Piston ring(s) worn, broken or sticking. Overhaul the top end
(Chapter 2).
5 Piston seizure damage. Usually from lack of lubrication or
overheating. Replace the pistons and bore the cylinders, as necessary
(Chapter 2).
6 Connecting rod upper or lower end clearance excessive. Caused
by excessive wear or lack of lubrication. Replace worn parts.
33 Valve noise
1 Incorrect valve clearances. Adjust the clearances by referring to
Chapter 1.
2 Valve spring broken or weak. Check and replace weak valve
springs (Chapter 2).
3 Camshaft, bushing or cylinder head worn or damaged. Lack of
lubrication at high rpm is usually the cause of damage. Insufficient oil
or failure to change the oil at the recommended intervals are the chief
causes.
34 Other noise
1 Cylinder head gasket leaking.
2 Exhaust pipe leaking at cylinder head connection. Caused by
improper fit of pipe(s) or loose exhaust flange. All exhaust fasteners
should be tightened evenly and carefully. Failure to do this will lead to
a leak.
3 Crankshaft runout excessive. Caused by a bent crankshaft (from
over-revving) or damage from an upper cylinder component failure.
Can also be attributed to dropping the machine on either of the
crankshaft ends.
4 Engine mounting bolts or nuts loose. Tighten all engine mounting
bolts and nuts to the specified torque (Chapter 2).
5 Crankshaft bearings worn (Chapter 2).
6 Camshaft chain tensioner(s) defective. Replace according to the
procedure in Chapter 2.
7 Camshaft chain, sprockets or guides worn (Chapter 2).
Abnormal driveline noise
35 Clutch noise
1 Clutch housing/friction plate clearance excessive (Chapter 2).
2 Loose or damaged clutch pressure plate and/or bolts (Chapter 2).
36 Transmission noise
1 Bearings worn. Also includes the possibility that the shafts are
worn. Overhaul the transmission (Chapter 2).
2 Gears worn or chipped (Chapter 2).
3 Metal chips jammed in gear teeth. Probably pieces from a broken
clutch, gear or shift mechanism that were picked up by the gears. This
will cause early bearing failure (Chapter 2).
4 Engine oil level too low. Causes a howl from transmission. Also
affects engine power and clutch operation (Chapter 1).
37 Final drive noise
1 Chain not adjusted properly (if equipped) (Chapter 1).
2 Engine sprocket or rear sprocket loose (chain drive models).
Tighten fasteners (Chapter 5).
3 Sprocket(s) worn (chain drive models). Replace sprocket(s).
(Chapter 5).
4 Rear sprocket warped (chain drive models). Replace (Chapter 5).
5 Wheel coupling (cush drive) worn (chain drive models). Replace
coupling (Chapter 5).
6 Final drive oil level low (shaft drive models).
7 Final drive gear lash out of adjustment (shaft drive models).
8 Final drive gears damaged or worn (shaft drive models).
